Attachment 1 (L7) - AR-MTP-24-156_Woven Stretch 4-way_1.1_05Sep2025.pdf

PDF 5 MB Posted

Attached to
All-Range Tactical Clothing (ARTC) Request for Information
Solicitation number
W911QY25RARTC
Issued by

About this file

This document is a Department of Defense Clothing and Textiles raw material specification for a Woven Stretch 4-way fabric (Fabric# AR-MTP-24-156) for the Army in 2024. The fabric is a printed, woven textile with a specific composition of 91% Nylon and 9% Spandex, designed with a plain weave and 4-way stretch capabilities. Key technical specifications include a maximum weight of 7 oz/yd², minimum break strength of 150 lbs in the warp and 100 lbs in the fill direction, and stretch ranges of 20-30% in both warp and fill directions.

The material is intended for Army use and must meet stringent quality requirements, including water repellency, dimensional stability, abrasion resistance, and color fastness. Specific testing standards from ASTM International and AATCC will be used to verify the fabric's performance, with first article testing required. The fabric is an Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP) print, and manufacturers must ensure the pattern matches standard samples in design, colors, and registration. The specification is approved for public release with unlimited distribution, and potential vendors can find additional details through referenced documents from organizations like ASTM, AATCC, and the Code of Federal Regulations.

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Department of Defense Clothing and Textiles

RM # AR-MTP-24-156

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Year 2024

RM Status In Process

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

General Statements - Scope Category Description Statements

Approved Use All Departments and Agencies General Statement This document is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

Classification Material General Statement The fabric(s) shall be of the following types, classes and styles as specified in the contract..

Scope

9/4/2025 Page 1 of 15

Fabric# AR-MTP-24-156

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Style Colors Color Swatch (Ref)L (Ref)A (Ref)B Comments

0001 | Army OCP Print |

General Statements - Colors Category Description Statements

General Statement - Colors Material The fabric(s) shall be in the following color(s) as specified in the contract.

Colors

9/4/2025 Page 2 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

General Statements - Material Construction GS Tab Category Description Detail Statements

Construction General Statement - Construction

Material and Component Material and component construction shall conform to the requirements specified as verified by the quality requirements and inspection methods specified. Following the exact sequence of operations is not required, provided the finished material meets the physical requirements and appearance as those produced by following the sequence of operations.

Construction Workmanship Material General Statement General Statement The finished material shall be uniform, and the occurrence of defects, shall not exceed the established Acceptance Quality Limits (AQL) in the contract and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

Material Construction

Yarn Ply

Yarn Details

Fiber Percentage Yarn 1 Yarn 91 Nylon

09 Spandex

Total Composition Nylon/Spandex 91/9

Fiber Percentage Yarn 2 Yarn

Total Composition B

Fiber/Yarn/Additional Details

Woven Information

Weave Type Plain Weave

Warp Count

Knit Information

Knit Type

Gauge

General Information

Fabric Weight

UOM

9/4/2025 Page 3 of 15

Additional Construction Details Image Description

An average stretch of 38% in the warp and 30% in the fill directions.

Width 51

UOM

Thickness (inches)

Appearance/Hand

Weft Count

Shinkage Length 0

UOM

Shirinkage Width 0

UOM

Wales

Courses

9/4/2025 Page 4 of 15

Style# AR-MTP-24-156

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Style Status

Platform

Environment

End Use

Gender

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

General Statements - Inspection Methods Category Description Detail Statements

Inspection Methods Inspection Conditions General Statement General Statement Unless otherwise specified in the contract inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in applicable test method documents and as specified by the inspection methods.

General Statements - Conformance Category Description Detail Statements

Conformance Inspection Material and Component Acceptance Criteria The lot shall be unacceptable if the number of defects exceeds the Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) or the failure of any test.

Conformance Inspection Material and Component Sampling Unless otherwise specified in subsidiary specifications, referenced documents, or procurement documents material and component sampling shall be (2) sample units for lots 800 yards of less, (3) sample units for lots 801 yards to 22,000 yards and (4) sample units for lots over 22,000 yards. For material testing, the sample unit shall be 5 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests.

Conformance Inspection Requirement General Statement Samples shall be subjected to Conformance inspections for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional and testing requirements. Conformance inspection shall consist of the inspection methods, examinations and tests specified.

Quality

General Statements - First Article Category Description Detail Statements

First Article Inspection - Quality

Acceptance Criteria General Statement The presence of defects exceeding AQLs specified in the contract or failure of any testing (end item, material or component) shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

First Article Inspection - Quality

Requirement General Statement Samples shall be subjected to First Article inspection for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional and testing requirements. First article inspection shall consist of the inspection methods, examinations and tests specified.

First Article Inspection - Quality

Sampling General Statement The sample size shall be as specified in the contract. The sample unit shall be one finished end item and the lot size shall be expressed in units of end items.

Additional Quality General Statements Category Description Detail Statement

9/4/2025 Page 5 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Material Properties

Characteristic Characteristic Additional Detail UOM Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

Weight Oz/yd2|Ounces per square yard Maximum 7 ASTM International ASTM D3776 / D3776M|Standard Test

Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric|3363|

Break Strength Warp lbs|Pounds Minimum 150 ASTM International ASTM D5034|Standard Test Method for

Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)|3363|

Break Strength Fill lbs|Pounds Minimum 100 ASTM International ASTM D5034|Standard Test Method for

Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)|3363|

Tear Strength Warp lbs|Pounds Minimum 7 ASTM International ASTM D2261|Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile

Tear Strength Fill lbs|Pounds Minimum 5 ASTM International ASTM D2261|Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile

Stretch Warp %|Percentage 20-30 ASTM International ASTM D4964|Standard Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Elastic Fabrics (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Type Tensile Testing Machine)|3363|

Stretch Fill %|Percentage 20-30 ASTM International ASTM D4964|Standard Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Elastic Fabrics (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Type Tensile Testing Machine)|3363|

Water Vapor Transmission Rate (WVTR) initial and after 3 washes Minimum 950 (g/m^2/24h) ASTM International ASTM E96|Water Vapor Transmission Rate(WVTR) Inverted or Upright|3363|

Wash conditions per AATCC TM135 (1), III, (Ai) First article testing

9 Air Permeabilty CFM|Cubic feet per minute

Minimum 10 ASTM International ASTM D737|Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics|3363|

Air Permeabilty after 3 washes CFM|Cubic feet per minute Minimum 8 ASTM International ASTM D737|Standard Test Method for Air

Permeability of Textile Fabrics|3363| Wash conditions per AATCC TM135 Table I, (3) IV Aii First article testing

Material Properties and Testing

General Statements - Material Component and Physical Requirements Gs Tab Category Description Detail Statements

Material Properties and Testing

Material Standard Samples General Statement The finished material shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

9/4/2025 Page 6 of 15

Material Properties Color

Color Characteristic Characteristic and Additional Details UOM Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

Material Properties

Characteristic Characteristic Additional Detail UOM Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

11 Spray rating initial Minimum 100, 100, 90 American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM22|Water Repellency:

Spray|3363|

First article testing

12 Drying Time after 3 washes min|Minutes Maximum 40 Moisture Management Technical Supplement

MM TS 07|Drying Time |3363| First article testing

13 Dimensional Stability warp %|Percentage Maximum 6 American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM135|Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering|3363|

(1), III, (Ai)

14 Dimensional Stability fill %|Percentage Maximum 4 American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM135|Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering|3363|

(1), III, (Ai)

Abrasion Resistance Cy|Cycles Minimum 2000 ASTM International ASTM D3884|Standard Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)|3363|

CS17 wheel, 1000 gram weight First article testing

16 Dynamic Absorption Maximum 35 American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM70|Water Repellency-Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption|3363|

First article testing

Spray rating after 5 washes 100, 90, 90 American Association of Textile

Chemist and Colorists (AATCC) AATCC TM22|Water Repellency:

Spray|3363|

Wash conditions per AATCC TM135 Table I, (3) IV Aii First article testing

Toxicity The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact, as specified in 40 CFR §798.2250, Dermal Toxicity, and 40 CFR §798.4100, Dermal Sensitization. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Department of Defense - Internal ITP6|Toxicity|3363| First article testing

Pattern Execution The pattern on the printed finished cloth(s) shall match the standard sample with respect to design, colors, and registration of the respective areas. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations and/or feathering as required for each color.

Spectral Reflectance Shall meet the requirements for the Operational Camouflage Pattern.

Department of Defense - Internal ITP4|Spectral Reflectance |3363|

Additional Material Properties and Testing

Characteristic Characteristic Additional Detail

Unit Of Measure Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

9/4/2025 Page 7 of 15

Material Properties Color

Color Characteristic Characteristic and Additional Details UOM Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

Colorfastness - Crocking wet and dry Minimum 3.5 American Association of Textile

Chemist and Colorists (AATCC) AATCC TM8|Colorfastness to Crocking:

Crockmeter|3363|

AATCC EP8 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

2 Colorfastness - Laundering

- Staining

Minimum 3 American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM61|Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated|3363|

AATCC EP2 Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining.

3 Colorfastness - Laundering

- Color Change

Minimum 3 American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM61|Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated|3363|

AATCC EP1 Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change.

Colorfastness - Light 40 hours Minimum 3 American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM16.1|Colorfastness to Light:

Outdoor|3363|

AATCC EP1 Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change.

First article testing

9/4/2025 Page 8 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Internal Test Procedures

Material Internal Test Procedures Source Test Method Test method options Test method description

Department of Defense - Internal

ITP6|Toxicity|3363| First article testing If dermal toxicity testing is required, it will be conducted in accordance with Title 40 of the Code of Federal Regulations, current editions and applicable sections, which are consistent with OECD tests: Skin Sensitization 406 and Dermal Irritation 404 (https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of -chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1). Dermal sensitization:

https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100 Dermal toxicity:https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250

Department of Defense - Internal

ITP4|Spectral Reflectance |3363| Spectral reflectance test. Spectral reflectance data shall be obtained from 600 to 860 nanometers (nm) (NOTE: 700 to 860 nanometers (nm) for Desert Camouflage) at 20 nm intervals on a spectrophotometer relative to the polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) family of compounds, the preferred white standard. Other white reference materials may be used provided they are calibrated to absolute white or vitrolite tiles. The spectral band width shall be less than 20 nm at 860 nm. Reflectance measurements shall be made by either the monochromatic or polychromatic mode of operation. When the polychromatic mode of operation is used, the spectrophotometer shall operate with the specimen diffusely illuminated with the full emission of a continuous source that simulates either CIE Source A or CIE Source D65. Measurements shall be taken on a minimum of two (2) different areas and the data averaged. The measured areas should be at least 6-inches away from the selvage. (NOTE: this will not apply to webbings, etc.) The specimen shall be measured as a single layer backed with XXX layers of the same fabric and shade. (NOTE: XXX layers of fabric will vary according to material) The specimen shall be viewed at an angle no greater than 10° from normal, with the specular component included. Measurements shall be taken on a minimum of two (2) different areas. Specimens shall be oriented in different directions during testing. When possible, the specimens tested shall not contain the same Warp or filling yarns/ Wales or courses when presented to the sample port. Camouflage materials should be measured with the appropriate aperture size to ensure that only one (1) color is measured at a time. Always try to use the largest aperture possible. Photometric accuracy of the spectrophotometer shall be within one (1) percent and wavelength accuracy within two (2) nm. Any color having spectral reflectance values falling outside the limits at four (4) or more of the wavelengths specified shall be considered a test failure.

9/4/2025 Page 9 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Defects Material Fabric type Defect Type Defect Description Details Major Minor

1 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Any hole, cut, tear, abrasion mark. ¨ ¨

2 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Edge ravels when pulled outward. ¨ ¨

3 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Broken or missing yarn. ¨ ¨

4 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Any spot, stain or streak more than 1-inch in combined directions. ¨ ¨

5 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C for dress uniforms and D for combat uniforms. ¨ ¨

6 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Slubs greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level E for dress uniforms and F for combat uniforms. ¨ ¨

7 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Color not a good match to reference. ¨ ¨

Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Any area of poor dye penetration, streak or shade bar that is

9-inches or less. Defective shade areas that are greater than 9-inches constitute a failure (when applicable).

9 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Width not as specified within a tolerance of less than 1/2-inch. ¨ ¨

10 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Objectionable odor. ¨ ¨

11 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Slack or tight selvages. ¨ ¨

12 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Any embedded foreign matter or uncleanness. ¨ ¨

13 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Edges rolled folded, creases, scalloped or corded, baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth. ¨ ¨

14 Woven Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics Tackiness (sticky to touch). ¨ ¨

Defects

General Statements- Defects Category Description Detail Statement

1 Quality Material General Statement General Statement The finished material shall be examined and scored for the defects listed.

Additional defects 9/4/2025 Page 10 of 15

Part NOS Defect Major Minor

9/4/2025 Page 11 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Additional Packaging Details No Description

Packaging

General Statements- Packaging Category Description Detail Statement

1 General Statement - Packaging

General Preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract.

2 Length and put-up Material General Statement General Statement For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified in the contract, the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards, and each length shall be put-up on a roll

3 Roll Identification - Face Material General Statement General Statement he face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping the face side with the word “FACE” at each end of the roll.

4 Roll Identification - Fiber Material General Statement General Statement Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with Title 16 CFR 303

5 Width Material General Statement General Statement For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified, the width of the finished cloth shall be as specified and shall be the minimum acceptable width exclusive of the selvage

9/4/2025 Page 12 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Additional General Statements Category Description Detail Statement

General Statements

General Statements Category Description Detail Statement

1 Distribution Statement A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

2 Comments, Suggestions or Questions

Combat Capabilities Development Command Soldier Center (CCDC SC)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Combat Capabilities Development Command Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Ave, Natick, MA 01760-5019

3 Non Government Publications

American Society for Quality (ASQ) Document Source Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org

4 Non Government Publications

American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists

(AATCC)

Document Source Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org

5 Non Government Publications

ASTM International Document Source Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.astm.org.

Order of Precedence General Statement Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

Other Government documents, drawings and publications

General Statement The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

Other Government documents, drawings and publications

Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) Document Source Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.ecfr.gov

Other Government documents, drawings and publications

Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) Troop Support Document Source Copies of this document are available online at https://www.dla.mil

9/4/2025 Page 13 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Known Sources Material Product Code Vendor Material Name Comments

Known Sources Others Other Component Vendor Comments

Additional Notes Grid Acquisition Requirement No Acquisition Type Acquisition Requirements

Notes and Concluding Material

General Statements - Notes Category Description Detail Statement

Notes Grid Acquisition Requirement No Acquisition Type Acquisition Requirements

9/4/2025 Page 14 of 15

Description Woven Stretch 4-way

MIL/CID Number N/A

Fabric Status In Process

Print/Solid Print

Fabric Type Woven

Defect Type Type I - Solid colors and printed fabrics

Year 2024

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Item Details Intended End Use

Keyword listing

Comments

NSN

Size

Additional Notes

Concluding Material Project Number Preparing Activity

Review Activities Review Activities

Civilian Agencies Civilian Agencies

Custodian Custodian

9/4/2025 Page 15 of 15

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