Navy Coat Womens SDB NCTRF PD 29628 2 April 2014 FINAL.pdf

NCTRF PD 29628

2 April 2014

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-29628

w/ INTERIM

AMENDMENT 1

9 February 1998

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, WOMAN’S, BLUE, DRESS

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a woman's blended polyester/wool gabardine single breasted, fused service dress blue coat.

1.2 Classification. The coat shall be of one type only in the sizes, body types and lengths listed below (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Sizes. 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28.

1.2.2 Body types. Juniors (J), Misses (M), and Womens (W).

1.2.3 Lengths. Petite (P), Regular (R), Tall (T), Extra Tall (XT).

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

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NCTRF CAGE CODE: 32263

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 – Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

COMMERICAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 – Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 – Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 – Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 – Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 – Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-59826 – Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile (Cotton, Tubular) MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine; Wool Polyester and Wool MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar MIL-DTL-32072 - Thread, Polyester MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling for Women’s Uniform Clothing MIL-STD-1608 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Women’s Dress

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/

Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(Samples of the buttons are available from the Defense Logistics Agency Philadelphia, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia PA 19111 or the procuring activity, see 6.4.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2125.).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 - Standard Test Method for Sewing Threads ASTM D747 - Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D1907 - Standard Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the Skein Method ASTM D3775 - Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available from http://www.astm.org or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.).

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document shall take precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3.2 Materials and components.

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be blend of polyester and wool gabardine cloth conforming to Type II, Class 12 of MIL-DTL-10176. The color shall be Blue 3346.

3.2.2 Lining. The material for the coat lining, except the inside pocket, shall conform to Class 3, A-A-52106. The color shall be black.

When Class 3, A-A-52106 is used as a cross-cut or bias-cut tape, the material shall be a dyed or non-dyed twill cloth. When cross-cut, the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin. The usage and widths of the material shall be as follows when used as a tape:

a. Cross-cut tape -1/2 inch wide for front gorge, shoulder, top armhole (front and back) and back neck

b. Bias-cut tape -3/4 inch wide for shoulder, upper part of front armhole and front neck gorge

3.2.2.1 Lining, inside pocket. The material for the inside pocket shall be 100% polyester, conforming Class 2, A-A-52106, except that the non-fibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The color shall be black. As an alternate the class 2 material may be used for cross-cut and bias tapes.

3.2.3 Under collar material. The under collar material shall be black felt fabric composite conforming to requirements specified in MIL-C-29137.

3.2.4 Chest piece materials. The chest piece shall be constructed from synthetic haircloth 3.2.4.1 and felt cloth 3.2.4.2.

3.2.4.1 Haircloth, synthetic. The synthetic haircloth for the chest piece and shoulder piece alternate shall have warp yarns made from 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester or any combination of polyester and cotton and shall conform to the requirements of Table I. The filling yarns shall be made from 100 percent nylon monofilament. The fabric shall not contain less than 50 ends and 42 picks per inch and shall weight not less than 5.2 ounces per square yard as specified in 4.4.1. The stiffness of the nylon filling shall be 0.13 (± 0.01) load pounds as specified in 4.4.1. The material shall be undyed and contain no sizing or resins.

TABLE I. Synthetic haircloth requirements

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz/sq yd, (minimum) 5.2

Yarns per inch, (minimum) Warp Filling

TABLE I. Synthetic haircloth requirements, continued

Breaking strength, (minimum)

160 lbs 250 lbs

Dry cleaning shrinkage, after 3 dry cleanings (maximum)

2.0% 2.0%

Stiffness, nylon filling, (minimum) Initial

0.13 (+0.01) load lbs

3.2.4.2 Felt cloth. The felt cloth for the chest padding shall be an unbleached polyester needle punched nonwoven material and shall conform to the requirements in Table II. The color shall be black.

TABLE II. Felt cloth requirements

Weight, oz./sq. yd. (maximum) 3.4

Breaking strength, pounds, (minimum):

Machine direction Cross machine direction

Thickness after 3 commercial perchloroethylene drycleaning cycles and pressings (inches, maximum)

0.065

Dry cleaning shrinkage, after 3 dry cleaning cycles, (maximum) percent Machine direction Cross machine direction

± 4.0 ± 2.5

3.2.5 Hanger loop. The hanger loop for the coat shall be cotton tubular braid, shade black, conforming to Type III, Class 1 of MIL-B-371.

3.2.6 Fusible interlinings.

3.2.6.1 Coat front and side front interlinings. The fusible shall be Type II, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296, except the minimum dots per inch shall be 200 or Type VIII, Class 1, Style A of

MIL-C-44296, except the weight shall be 2.1 oz/sq yd (± 0.5) and the minimum dots per inch shall be 200. The color shall be black. Each fused component shall exhibit evenness of the adhesive with no missing dots and/or extreme heavy coating.

3.2.6.2 Small parts fusible interlining. The pattern pieces listed below will be known as “small parts fusible”. See Table VI. The fusible shall be a black nonwoven interlining conforming to Type V, Class 1, Style A or B of MIL-C-44296.

Lapel peak interlining Top collar interlining Top sleeve interlining Under sleeve interlining Chest welt interlining Front facing interlining Center back hem interlining Side back hem interlining Center back neck interlining

3.2.7 Fused components. The color of the fused basic material shall show no difference in shade from the non-fused basic material after fusing.

3.2.7.1 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stretching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Under no circumstances shall the dry heat temperature of the fusing press exceed 315 degrees F. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and front fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness.

Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded.

3.2.7.2 Bond strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.1.1.1, and a minimum of 24 ounces or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.4.1.6. As an option, the bonding strength may be conducted up to two hours after the initial fusing takes place.

3.2.7.3 Colorfastness. All fused components shall show colorfastness to dry-cleaning equal to or better than the basic material standard (3.2.1) as specified in 4.4.1.

3.2.7.4 Shrinkage.

3.2.7.4.1 Differential shrinkage. The differential shrinkage between the basic material specified in 3.2.1 and the fused material as specified in 3.2.6 shall not exceed 1.5 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.1.5.

3.2.7.4.2 After dry-cleaning shrinkage. After bonding the fusible interlinings specified in 3.2.7 to the basic material in 3.2.1 the after dry-cleaning shrinkage shall not exceed 2 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.1.6. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.2.7.4.3 Final appearance. The final appearance of the fused basic material after three cycles of dry-cleaning proceeded by pressing shall show no change in appearance, any evidence of bubbling, delamination, strike-through, bleed-though, shrinkage or decrease in bonding strength as cited in 3.2.7, 3.2.7.1 , 3.2.7.2 and 3.2.7.3.

3.2.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the following requirements: The shoulder pads shall have a white top and bottom cover needle punched polyester felt conforming to the requirements in Table III (see 4.4.3). The filler shall be cotton, one piece shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. Multiple pieces shall not be permitted. The top cover shall be notched for shoulder seam alignment 4 (+1/4) inches from the front of the pad. The pad shall be sewn in a concave shoulder fitting form utilizing multilane of basting, totaling 6 rows. The finished pad shall measure 8-1/2 to 9-1/2 inches in length, and 4-1/2 to 5-1/4 inches in width, its thickness shall be 3/8 inches, with a 3/8 to 1/2 inch armhole cutout on each side, see Figure 5. The finished pads shall conform to the requirements in Table III and shall not be altered in thickness, shape, or dimension after being commercially drycleaned 3 times with an environmentally acceptable solution. (See 6.6.2.)

TABLE III. Shoulder pad requirements

Material Requirement Needle punched material:

Weight 4.0 oz/sq yd (minimum) Thickness at 1 inch diameter presser foot at 0.1 psi

0.375 to 0.525 inches

Finished pad:

Breaking strength Machine direction 6.0 lbs (minimum) Cross machine direction 3.0 lbs. (minimum)

3.2.9 Sleeve heads. The material for the sleeve-heads shall be a 3 ounces per square yard (minimum) polyester needle punched felt. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to the requirements stated in Figure 6. As an alternate, a continuous (on a roll) cut to the required length sleeve-head may be used. (See 6.6.3.)

3.2.10 Tapes.

3.2.10.1 Woven tape. The tapes for staying the coat shall be cotton, preshrunk, conforming to Types I or II and Classes 1 or 2 of A-A-52071. The types and widths of the tapes shall be as follows:

Type I - 5/8 inch wide stay tape for bridle at break-line of lapel and for joining front facing

Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay tape for lower front and back armholes

3.2.10.2 Tape, fusible. As an alternate a fusible tape, conforming to Type II, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296, may be used to join front facing. The fusible tape shall be a natural color, woven or nonwoven material with a thermoplastic polyamide resin and 5/8 inch in width. Testing shall be in accordance with 4.4.3.

3.2.11 Threads.

3.2.11.1 Thread, polyester core. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester core conforming to A-A-50199, Type I. The color of the thread shall be black. The use of polyester-covered, polyester-core shall be prohibited. The thread and its use shall be as follows in Table IV.

TABLE IV. Polyester core thread

Use Tex No. Ply Seaming, stitching, basting & constructing chest piece, buttonholes and bar tacks

31-35, 36-45, or 46-60

2 or 3

Button sewing 31-35 2 or 3

3.2.11.2 Thread, polyester. The polyester thread shall conform to MIL-DTL-32072 in the types, sizes and uses in Table V. The color of the thread shall be black. As an alternate, Class A of A-A-59826 may be used.

TABLE V. Polyester thread

Use MIL-DTL-32072, Type I, Class 1, Subclass A

A-A-59826, Type III (monofilament)

A-A-59826, Type IV

Tex No. Tex No. Tex No.

Machine felling and blindstitching

24 or 30 21-25 or 27-34

24 or 30

Buttonholes and bar tacks

70 70-75 -

Hand felling 70 - 35-36 or 45

3.2.11.3 Automatic button sewing. Thread, nylon. When an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is used, the thread shall meet A-A-59826, Thread, Nylon, Type III monochord, bonded finish, Tex size 21-25 or Type IV 2-ply waxed, Class A, Tex size 35 - 36 (both considered as Government letter size A), or as a further alternate A-A-50199, Types I or II, Tex size 36-45 may be used. The color of the thread shall be black.

3.2.11.4 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be Tex 210, soft or glazed finished cotton gimp thread conforming to A-A-50198 (see 4.4.3). The color shall be black.

3.2.11.5 Colorfastness of threads. The dyed threads cited in 3.2.11.1 through 3.2.11.4 shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning, perspiration and light in accordance with A-A-52094 or A-A- 50199 except with a minimum of 3 rating.

3.2.11.6 Basting thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the floating chest piece assembly and basting shall be a Type I, Ticket No. 70, 2-ply A-A-52094. As an alternate, the cotton-covered, polyester core thread used for seaming and stitching or the nylon thread used in hand or machine type felling may be used for those operations where the thread is required to be removed, providing the coat is subsequently given a treatment by a drycleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When the soluble thread is used, any residue remaining in the coat after the drycleaning process shall be brushed off or removed (see 6.8). The color shall be white for the seaming and stitching of the floating chest piece assembly and where basting thread is required to be removed. The thread for basting of the sleeve hems shall be black in color.

3.2.12 Buttons.

3.2.12.1 Metal buttons. The silver plated oxidized finish metal buttons for the front shall be Type I, Style 4, Class C (silver) 35-line, hopper back, conforming to MIL-B-3461. The silver buttons shall have a matte finish.

3.2.12.2 Plastic buttons. The plastic stay buttons shall be Type II, Class D, Style 15, 18 ligne, conforming to V-B-871. The buttons shall be in accordance with the Navy Button Shade Standard shade Black 400 (see 6.4).

3.2.13 Pocket stay material. Any sew-in 50% polyester/50% cellulosic blend nonwoven material shall be used for the inside pocket stay. The color shall be natural or black.

3.2.14 Labels.

3.2.14.1 Personal/identification/instruction label. Each coat shall have a combination personal/identification/instruction label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:

COAT, WOMAN’S, BLUE, DRESS

FIBER CONTENT: 55% POLYESTER AND 45% WOOL

LINING: 100% POLYESTER

CONTRACT NO: SP0100-00-0-0000 (example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (If other than contractor):

CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS:

DRY CLEANING ONLY

ROLL PRESS SLEEVES AND LAPELS

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.2.14.2 Size label. Each coat shall have a size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL- DTL-32075 and body dimension label labeling requirements conforming to MIL-STD-984 except the word “NAME” shall be in letters not less than 1/4 inch in height; all other lettering shall be 1/8 inch in height (see 4.4.3). The overall size of the label shall be 3-1/2 (± 1/8) inches by 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches. The label shall indicate size body dimensions, and stock number as shown below. All printing shall be legible for the life of the garment. Abbreviation for the applicable body types shall be J for Junior, M for Misses and W for Womens. Abbreviations for the applicable lengths shall be P for Petite, R for Regular, T for Tall and XT for XTall. The label shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning and the inscription shall be as stated below:

SIZE CODE: 12JP (example) BUST CIRC: 37-1/2 (example)

WAIST CIRC: 29-1/2 (example) HIP CIRC: 38 (example)

HEIGHT: Less than 63-1/2 (P) (example) NSN: 8410-00-000-0000 (example)

3.2.14.3 Removable size and Universal Product Code (UPC) ticket. Each coat shall have a commercial type removable size and UPC ticket of suitable commercial cardboard for the top of sleeve (see operation 34). The ticket shall be legibly printed or stamped in blue or black ink and shall include information on size including body dimensions, as stated in 3.2.14.2. The lettering for the size on the ticket shall be 1/4 inch. There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code.

The bar codes for UPC shall be a medium to high density. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking.

3.2.14.4 Bar code label. Each coat shall be individually bar coded with a Type VIII, Class 17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075 and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN).

There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initial “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The bar codes for the NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and packaged as specified. The label shall not cause any damage to the coat such as a spot or stain or damage due to location on the garment.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The fully lined single breasted (split front style) woman’s coat has fusible interlining, left outside chest welt, one inside double welted (besom) pocket on lower right, peaked lapels, two piece set-in sleeves, and is buttoned over left side with four silver plated Navy eagle buttons all reinforced with a stay button. The bottom of the sleeves shall be unfinished and basted in place. See Figures 1 and 3.

3.5 Figures. The figures 1, 3, 4 and 7 through 11 are furnished for informational purposes only.

Figures 2, 5 and 6 shall apply. Figures are not drawn to scale. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.4). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability or dimensional requirements cited in the specification. The patterns provide a 3/8 inch allowance for all seams, except 5/8 inch for joining side seams and 5/8 inch for attaching under collar to neckline of coat. Unless otherwise indicated in Table VII, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials as specified, and in accordance with the following list of pattern parts:

TABLE VI. Pattern parts

Material and Pattern Part Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts Cloth, Poly/Wool Gabardine (3.2.1) Front Back Side front Side back Front facing Top sleeve Under sleeve Top collar Chest welt

29628-FRONT

29628-BACK

29628-SIDE_FRONT

29628-SIDE_BACK

29628-FRT_FAC

29628-TOP_SLV

29628-UND_SLEEVE

29628-TOP_COLLAR

29628-CHEST_WELT

TABLE VI. Pattern parts, continued

Material and Pattern Part Computer Nomenclature Cut Parts Cloth, Lining (3.2.2) Front lining Back lining Side back lining Top sleeve lining Under sleeve lining Inside pocket facing lining Inside pocket besom lining

29628-FRT_LIN

29628-BK_LIN

29628-SD_BK_LIN

29628-TOP_SLV_LIN

29628-UND_SLV_LIN

29628-INS_PK_FAC_LIN

29628-INS_PK_BES_LIN

Cloth twill (3.2.2) Inside pocket

29628-INSIDE_POCKET

Cloth, fusible (fronts) (3.2.6.1) Front center interlining Side front interlining

29628-FRT_INT

29628-SD_FR_INT

Cloth, fusible (small parts) (3.2.6.2) Lapel peak interlining Top collar interlining Top sleeve interlining Under sleeve interlining Chest welt interlining Front facing interlining Center back hem interlining Side back hem interlining Center back neck interlining

29628-LPL_PEAK_INT

29628-TOP_CLR_INT

29628-TOP_SLV_INT

29628-UND_SLV_INT

29628-CHEST_WLT_INT

29628-FRT_FAC_INT

29628-CNT_BK_HEM_INT

29628-SD_BK_HEM_INT

29628-CNT_BK_NK_INT

Haircloth, synthetic (3.2.4.1) Chest piece Shoulder piece alternate

29628-CHST_PIECE

29628-SHLDR_PC_ALT

Felt cloth (3.2.4.2) Chest padding

29628-CHST_PADNG

Felt composite (3.2.3) Under collar composite

29628-UND_CLR_COMP

Pocket stay (3.2.13) Inside pocket stay

29628-IN_PKT_STAY

Templates Under collar shaper (working) Lapel shaper (working) Under collar stand marker Finished lapel Finished collar Finished chest welt

29628-UN_CLR_SHPR_TP

29628-LAPL_SHPR_TP

29628-U_CLR_ST_MK_TP

29628-FIN_LAPEL_TP

29628-FIN_COLLAR_TP

29628-FIN_CHS_WLT_TP

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitch, seam, and stitching types as specified in Table VII shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams properly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the coat. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Buttonholes shall be cut clean and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Unless otherwise specified, edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch from the edge.

3.7.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be tacked not less than 3/8 inch, unless otherwise specified. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than l/2 inch.

The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks of 401 stitching shall be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.7.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table VII.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The items shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table VII. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished items are identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table VII. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in the specification.

3.8.1 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table VII shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine as commercially used for tailored coats. Any additional underpressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible. A left and right chest press, designed specifically for finish pressing of coat is required. Fusibles shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommended time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.8.2 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil may be used, the numbering shall not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. The following methods shall not be used:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices. No metal devices or sew-on type markings on lining pieces.

(2) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.8.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table VII are as follows:

stchs - Stitches

Mchne - Machine Brtck - Bartack nd - including dbl - double smlr - similar thd - thread Btnhl - Buttonhole btn - Button min - minimum

Table VII. Construction of coat

No. Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches per inch

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the coat in strict accordance with

Table VI patterns furnished with show size, shape of component parts, placement of pockets, directional lines and notches for the proper assembly of all parts. The directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the pattern. The cut parts from the top and bottom plies shall match and correspond to the pattern.

The use of drill marks to position chest welt shall be prohibited.

b. All polyester/wool parts shall be cut from one piece of material. (3.2.1)

c. All lining parts shall be cut from one piece of material, except the sleeves which may be cut from ends and when so cut shall approximately match the main lining assembly. When pairs of sleeves are cut from ends, the pairs shall be shade marked and match each other. (3.2.2)

d. Cut all other component parts listed in

3.6.1 as indicated by patterns from the material specified.

e. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from ends need not be shade marked.

2. Replacement of defective parts.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-1608 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

Table VII. Construction of coat, cont’d

No. Operation Stitch Type

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

3. Fusing.

Note Fused lots and test swatches shall be cooled to the touch prior to bundle tying or testing.

a. Fuse fronts and small parts 1/8 inch from raw edges

b. Fuse chest welt interlining to chest welt placing interlining ¼ inch past fold line.

4. Make fronts.

a. Each front shall consist of two pieces, a fused front and a fused side front with a slit dart. The bust lines on both sides shall be alike.

b. Form and stitch a slit dart in each side front as indicated by marks on pattern.

The point shall taper to nothing and dart shall slit to ½ inch of point.

301 OSf-1 10-14

c. Press dart open and flat.

d. Seam fused front and side fronts face to face, working in bust fullness between notches.

301 SSa-1 10-14

e. Press seams open and flat maintaining contour and without stretching seam.

f. Position (3.2.2) cross-cut tape 1/8 to 1/4 inch below front gorge, across shoulder, and approximately 4 inches along top of front armhole. Place tape approximately 3/4 inch from edge of corners. Stitch along top edge of tape. A 3/4 inch bias tape shall be sewn to front armhole from notch to raw edge of shoulder seam.

301 SSaa-1 10-14

No. Operation Stitch

Type Seam Type

Stitches per inch

g. Holding a 3/16 inch wide woven tape (see 3.2.10.1, Type II) taut, stitch along the lower front armhole extending approximately 1/2 inch from the side seam allowance to the cross-cut staying tape.

Cross-cut tape and 3/16 inch woven tape should abut.

h. Press taped areas, shrinking out fullness where tape was held taut.

5. Make and attach chest welt

a. With face sides together, stitch welt ends ¼ inch from raw edge and leave straight edge open. Trim outer corners and turn to finished position forcing out edges and corners

b. Press welt smooth and flat.

c. Top and front of welt is indicated by marks on finished chest welt template.

d. Check welt dimensions with Finished Chest Welt Template.

e. Mark seamline for bottom edge of welt to conform to finished chest welt template.

Depth of welt shall finish 7/8 to 1 inch for all sizes on the left front of coat.

f. Welt marks on front and side front patterns indicate top of finished welt. To mark seamline for placement of welt, place finished chest welt template with top of pattern matching marks on fronts.

Mark bottom edge of template pattern for seamline. Mark sides of template for finished ends of welt for more exact location.

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

g. Place welt on left front with folded edge facing hemline. Position welt by matching the marked seamlines on coat and welt and stitch ¼ inch from raw edge. Trim corners at an angle.

301 LSbk-1 (a) 10-14

Note Care shall be taken to prevent ends protruding beyond the edges of welt when stitched to coat.

h. Turn welt up and stitch ends of welt 1/16 inch from each end.

Hand or mchne

10-14

i. Vertically tack corners ¼ inch down from top folded edge.

301 smlr to LSbk-1(b)

12-14

j. The finished outside chest welt length shall measure the following:

Sizes 4 through 8 = 4 (± 1/16) inch Sizes 10 through 12 = 4-1/4 (± 1/16) inch Sizes 14 through 16 = 4-1/2 (± 1/16) inch Sizes 18 through 20 = 4-3/4 (± 1/16) inch Sizes 22 through 28 = 5 (± 1/16) inch

Note The finished placement of the chest welt shall measure according to the dimensions listed in Table X.

6. Make floating chest piece assembly

(Optional).

a. Position shoulder piece to shoulder of chest piece even at shoulder line and approximately 1/8 inch behind neckline and front of the chest piece. This forms the chest shoulder piece assembly. Note:

Skip this operation if not using shoulder piece.

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

b. Quilt the chest shoulder piece assembly together down from shoulder approximately 3 inches as shown in Figure 7. This forms the chest shoulder assembly.

LSbj-1 4-8

c. Position the chest padding to the chest shoulder assembly and quilt the 3 plies together as shown in Figure 7. This now forms the complete chest piece assembly.

LSbj-1 4-8

7. Make backs.

a. The back shall consist of a back and two side backs joined without gathering, puckers, or pleats.

b. Position a cross-cut staying tape 1/8 to ½ inch below back neck edge from shoulder seam to shoulder seam and another approximately 4 inches along the top of back armhole ¾ inch back from corners. Stitch along top edge of tape.

c. With face sides together, stitch side back pieces to center back, according to notches on pattern.

d. Press seams open and flat, maintaining contour and without stretching seam.

e. Hold 3/16 inch wide woven tape (see 3.2.10.1, Type II) taut and stitch along the lower back armhole extending the tape approximately ¾ inch from the side seam to the cross-cut stay tape. The cross-cut stay tape and the 3/16 inch wide woven tape should abut.

f. Press taped areas, shrinking out fullness where tape was held taut

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

8. Prepare front lining.

a. Fold and stitch a dart in each front lining as indicated on pattern. Points shall taper to nothing and dart shall be slit to ½ inch of point.

301 OSf-1 10-14

b. With face sides together, stitch front lining to front facing ending the seam 1 to 1-1/2 inches above the bottom of facing-lining assembly, thus facilitating hem felling operation.

OR c. As an alternate, front lining may be stitched to facing all the way to bottom provided spot tacking is performed by machine (see operation 27e.)

d. Press seam joining front lining to facing and front dart toward side seam.

9. Make inside pocket besom and attach labels.

a. There shall be an inside double besom pocket located on inside lower right front of coat as indicated by marks on pattern.

b. Center the inside pocket lining facing on and between the ends of the inside breast pocket piece and turn under both edges 1/4 to 3/8 inch and stitch. Selvage need not be turned under. The top edge of the identification and size label shall be centered, inserted and caught under the edge of the lining facing. Printing on label shall not be obscured. Stitch the remaining three sides of label to pocketing. Label shall be located on the pocket ply next to the coat front.

301 LSd-1 10-14

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

OR c. As an alternate, stitch the four sides of the label to the pocket piece with the top edge of label overlapping lining facing.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

d. Fold pocket piece approximately in the center of the lining facing and stitch to right facing-lining assembly at the mark for the pocket opening and a pocket stay on the underside forming a 1 /4 inch to 3/4 inch piped piece.

301 Smlr to LSbr-2(a)

10-14

e. Stitch under layer of pocket piece to facing-lining assembly and pocket stay 1/4 to 3/8 inch above the first row of stitching.

f. Cut opening of pocket through pocket facing-lining assembly and stay piece midway between the two rows of stitching: tongue notch the ends of the opening and turn pocket piece through opening.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-14

g. Topstitch facing-lining assembly at ends and top of pocket opening with tongue tab at each end turned under and seam allowance at top of pocket turned upward.

301 LSq-2(b) (show finished seam at top of pocket opening)

10-14

h. Stitch pocket piece at sides securely tacking corners through tongue notch and bottom rounding corners. The back part of the pocket shall be held taut to prevent gapping of pocket opening.

i. The finished inside lower pocket shall measure 4-1/4 (±1/4) inch wide, 5 (± 3/8) inches deep and shall extend into the facing 1/2 (±1/4) inch, for all sizes.

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

Note As an alternate, the above pocket opening may be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine which stitches, cuts, and turns piped edges in one operation. When this machine is used, the piped piece may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine. Ends of pocket opening shall be securely tacked. In addition, when this machine is used, the contractor may utilize the machine manufacturer’s recommended pocket stay material in addition to the specification material. Close top of pocket on the inside by stitching across the joining seam of top piped piece through all plies. Stitch an inside pocket stay from the back end of the pocket to the armhole.

or

10-14

10-14

Position top edge of personal and instruction label on outside of inside breast pocket 1/8 to 1/4 inch below joining seam of lower piped piece at center of pocket opening and stitch label on all four sides to the front lining through one ply of the pocketing.

10. Join back lining.

a. Back lining shall consist of two center back and two side back sections.

b. With face sides together, join center back seam.

c. With face sides together, join side back sections to center back.

d. Press side back seams flat, towards center back. Press center back seam towards right side back.

11. Join fronts and back linings at sides.

a. With a 5/8 inch seam, join the fronts to back at sides.

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

b. Press side seams flat towards center back.

12. Attach floating chest piece assembly to fronts.

a. Position floating chest piece assembly on underside of front with haircloth facing the fused interlining. Keep assembly slightly full in order to support the form and shape of fronts.

b. Align shoulder of coat front and floating chest piece assembly within ¼ inch breakline. Baste through front and floating chest piece assembly parallel to breakline of lapel.

Hand

2-4

4-6

c. On outside, baste front to floating chest piece assembly across shoulder and along armhole, allowing room for placement of shoulder pad. The padding shall be placed so that it will not be caught in the shoulder seaming of coat. A jump basting machine may be used.

1-2

1-2

d. Position 5/8 inch wide bridle stay tape over chest piece assembly with front edge of stay tape on the inside of breakline of each lapel from gorge to 1-1/2 inches from bottom of lapel. Top of bridle tape shall extend sufficiently above gorge to permit catching in the top collar gorge “V” stitching. Baste stay tape even and smooth for a distance of 3/4 to 1 inch from gorge, then hold tape taut to work in not less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch chest fullness. The balance of tape shall be basted without tautness or fullness.

Stay tape and chest piece assembly shall be stamp marked to assure proper amount of fullness.

Hand

2-4

4-6

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

e. Blindstitch bridle stay tape along both edges.

or

SSm-2 4-8

4-8

13. Press fronts.

Press fronts. Individual press front edge, lapel and bust of right and left fronts on a women’s right and left form steam pressing machine.

14. Shape lapels and fronts.

a. Position lapel shaper on break-line of lapel and mark as indicated by shaper.

Mark and shape lapels in accordance with lapel shaper and trim lapels. If necessary front and bottom frayed edges may be trimmed.

b. As a guide, lapel shaper shall be placed with top of breakline at neckline notch and top buttonhole notch matching top buttonhole mark on front.

Note Marking and trimming of lapels, fronts and bottom may be performed with a clicker machine using dies conforming to pattern shapers.

c. Mark the bottom turn up 1-1/8 (± 1/8) inches.

15. Baste coat and join facings to front.

a. Match, fit and baste facings to each front putting in proper lapel and bust fullness. The facings shall be held slightly taut at bottom edges of fronts. Trim facing edges along front and lapel even with front to gorge notch.

mchne

4-6

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

b. Position 5/8 inch cross-cut tape even with the front edge of coat, across top of lapel to front of interlining and facing, down front, and across bottom to a point 2 to 3 inches beyond back edge of facing and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

c. Press edges flat and smooth.

d. Notch corner of lapels, trim around rounded corner of lapels, bottom corners and front edge. Turn facing to finished position, work out lapels and bottom corner of fronts. The lapel shall conform to the finished lapel template (tolerance ± 1/8 inch).

e. Baste edges, (first basting) around coat from lapel step, turning up coat hem as marked and rolling the lapel seam to the underside and the joining seam toward the inside of coat along the front and bottom edges.

mchne

4-6

4-6

f. Baste facings along lapel fronts (second basting), approximately 1 inch from edge, to a point in line with top edges of lapels, while maintaining the inward roll along the lower front edge.

mchne

4-6

4-6

g. Baste a row of stitching diagonally from lapel break to the point of lapel placing fullness in lapel, to permit lapel to roll.

Hand or

h. Baste along breakline of lapel, allowing fullness in facing to permit lapel to roll.

Hand or

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

i. Baste back edge of facing putting fullness over bust.

Hand or mchne

4-6

4-6

Note: Whenever possible reduce the basting tensions to reduce the pull on the fabric during basting. The smallest size needles and thread should be used (see 6.8).

16. Hem coat bottom.

Blindstitch complete bottom turn up of coat.

EFl-1

8-10

6-8

17. Tack facing to interlining.

Tack facings to front interlining. Tack the inner edge of facings through the floating chest piece assembly with one row of blindstitching from not more than 2-1/2 inches from shoulder seam to bottom of fused front.

Hand or

SSm-1

2-4

18. Fit and baste body lining to coat.

a. Beginning at the inner edge of facing, approximately 3 inches above finished edge of coat, baste lining fronts across bottom, up side seam (seam on seam) to approximately 4 inches below pit of armhole, then diagonally upward forming a front shoulder dart pleat in accordance with marks on pattern with the outside fold of pleat facing the armhole.

mchne

3-5

4-6

b. Baste lining back by joining basting at pit of armhole at side seam, diagonally upward to center back neck edge, taking in excess material and forming a back pleat with the folded edge of the pleat facing the right front of coat (as worn).

mchne

3-5

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

c. Baste back pleat from neckline to bottom edge of lining. Pleats in lining shall be pressed prior to removing basting threads.

Hand or

3-5

d. Trim facing at neck gorge and lining at armholes, shoulders and trim lining along the bottom edge of coat.

e. Fold bottom edge of lining under approximately 1 inch and position fold ½ inch in from finished bottom of coat and baste allowing room for the felling operation.

mchne

3-5

4-6

f. Blindstitch complete bottom turn up of coat.

EFl-1

6-10

6-8

6-8

g. As an alternate, Operations 20e. and 20f. may be completed by machine before basting lining into the coat (operations 20a, 20b, 20c, and 20d).

19. Join shoulder seam.

a. Join shoulder seams of front and back smoothly easing in proper fullness on back and preventing distortion.

b. Press shoulder seams open and flat without stretching seam.

20. Make collar.

a. The top collar assembly shall consist of a one-piece top collar of basic material with fused interlining. The under collar assembly shall consist of a one piece under collar composite.

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

b. Mark and shape under collar composite to conform to under collar shaper template. Marking and shaping of under collar may be performed with a clicker machine using dies conforming to under collar shaper template.

c. Position the neck edge of under collar stand marker even with neckline of under collar and match notches. Mark location of breakline. Stitch the breakline.

Finished collarstand at center shall measure 1-1/8 inch (+ 1/8).

d. Using the top collar pattern, mark the sew line on the top collar, providing a 3/8 inch seam allowance for sewing the top collar to under collar composite.

e. Overlap under collar composite 3/8 inch over right side of top collar matching notches for eased areas (ease) and not eased (or even) areas as marked on patterns. Zig zag stitching shall not extend onto top collar material. The edge of the zig zag stitch should be even with the edge of the under collar composite.

304 LSa-1 9-10

f. Turn collar assembly to finished position. Baste turned edge so edge of top collar extends past under collar 1/16 inch.

Press this edge to hold it in place.

mchne

4-6

g. Trim excess top collar ends, and then remove basting. Turn right side in and stitch ends of top collar to under collar 1/4 inch from edge. Turn right side out and work out collar points.

h. Baste the top collar to under collar along breakline and outer edge putting in proper fullness.

Hand or mchne

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

i. Press and crease the stand of the top collar and the under collar together in one operation to shape holding the crease line short. Center area of crease line shall be straight for a distance of 3 to 4 inches.

j. Trim neck edge of top collar leaving a 3/8 inch seam allowance on gorge, gradually working to 3/8 inch at center back.

k. Remove basting of breakline.

21. Attach collar, size label and hanger loop.

Finished appearance. The collar shall roll on the finished coat and hug the neckline and the collar edges shall not curl. The collar shall cover the felled seam at the back and the under collar shall not be exposed at the bottom edge. The collar shall conform to the finished collar template.

a. Seam top collar to front facings and back lining catching hanger loop and size label with 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Notch seam allowance of gorge no less than 1 inch behind breakline and trim down to 1/4 inch seam allowance.

b. Finished hanger loop shall measure 1- 1/2 (± ¼) inches between inner edges.

301 EFp-2 8-10

c. Spread gorge seam open and tack to the chest piece assembly.

301 or

10-14

d. Stitch neckline of coat to seam allowance of top collar assembly 1/4 inch from raw edge.

Or mchne

SSa-1

10-14

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

e. Fell under collar to body of coat along neckline putting in proper fullness at shoulders.

Hand 101 mchne 306

LSa-1

8-10

f. Finished ends of collar shall abut with tops of lapel. There shall be no gap at lapel notch (see detail in Figure 2). Width of collar lapel notch shall conform to the finished lapel template (tolerance ± 1/8 inch).

22. Make sleeves.

a. With face sides together, join forearm seam of sleeves 3/8 inch from edge, distributing fullness between notches.

b. Shape-press forearm seam open and flat holding seam short.

c. With face sides together, stitch back arm seam.

d. Press back arm seam open and flat.

e. Turn up sleeve bottom as indicated by pattern marks and tack to the joining seams.

Hand or mchne

f. Soft press bottom of sleeve.

23. Make and tack sleeve lining.

a. With face sides together, join the forearm seam of the sleeve lining 3/8 inch from edge, distributing fullness between notches.

b. With face sides together join back arm seam of sleeve linings.

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

c. The sleeve lining shall extend not less than 3/4 inch above top of sleeve. Tack forearm and back arm seams of sleeve linings, 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches in length, to respective forearm seam and back arm seam of sleeves, distributing fullness in lining. Tacking shall extend no more than 7 inches below top of sleeve to no more than 7 inches above creased bottom edge of sleeve.

12 stchs for 1-1/2 inches in length

OR

(1) As an alternate, when constructing a sleeve lining, with a sleeve lining felling machine (see 6.8), join back arm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining. The distance between the notches on the forearm shall be left open.

SSa-1

SSa-1

10-14

10-14

(2) Position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of forearm sleeve seam and top of the back arm sleeve hem. Tack forearm seam and back arm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and back arm seam, respectively. The back arm seam tacking shall extend from approximately the midpoint of the back arm seam to not more than 7 inches above creased bottom edge. The forearm seam tacking shall be positioned 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

2-3

4-8

Note When tacking is done by hand, both ends of stitching shall be securely tacked with not less than 3 stitches.

d. Turn sleeve through lining and baste bottom turn up of sleeve lining. Sleeve lining shall have no less than 1-1/4 inch outlet at bottom. Turn sleeves to finished position and assemble in pairs.

2-3

Seam Type

Stitches per inch

Note Sleeve lining hem shall not be attached to the sleeve hem and shall hang freely in the sleeve.

e. Sleeves may be pressed prior to hanging to facilitate check on balance of sleeves during setting operation.

24.