Marine Corps Coat Womens Green milc29427B.pdf

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MIL-c-29427B(MC) 21 November

SUPERSEDING

14~L-C-29427AlliC\ 9 October 19~0”’

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

COATS, WONRWJS

This apeclfication iS approved for use by u.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all department and agencies of the Depa~ent of Defense.

10 SCOPE

1.1 a. This specification coverB reguiremente for women~a coat6.

1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type and clase in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2):

Class 1 - Polyester/Wool Gabardine, Green 2212

Saneficial comments (recomjaendat~onB, additions, deletionB) and any pertinent date which may be of uee in improving this document Bhould be addreseed to: Defenee Pereonnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2EO0 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 1914s-5099, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Propoeal (DD FOrm 1426) appearing at the end of thie document or by letter.

AMSC NIA FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;

distribution is unlimited.

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MIL-c-29427B(MC)

S!K& schedule of Bi.ze=

Reuular Xo

I+s#

4 4 4

: B

10 10 12 12 14 14

16 i6 16 10 18 18

2. APPLICABLE DOCU1.u3W7.S

2.1 ~overnment documents

2.1.1 Specifications, standardB, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent Bpecifi.ed herein. Unless otherwiee specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

&iPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-2 03 A-A-50067 A-A-50186 A-A-50196 A-A-50198 A-A-50199

A-A-52094 A-A-52106

V-T-295

DDD-L-20

DDD-T-86

MILITARY

141L-C-297

Paper, Xraft, Untreated Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread, Silk Thread, Gfmp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polye8ter Core, Cotton- or polyester-Covered

Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester, or Polyester Blend

Thread, Nylon Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Uee)

Tape, Textiler Cotton, General PurpOSe (unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed)

Cloth, Interlining, Cotton Warp, and Spun Heir-Wool Filling

HIL-C-29427R(HC)1’

1-

MIL-c-368

HIL-B-371

K2L-C-10176

MIL-P-15064

141L-c-15065

MIL-B-17757

MIL-B-20289

ML-C-29137

XIL-C-44192

NIL-C-44296

STAWDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191

FED-STD-751

MILITARY

!41L-STD-129

MIL-STD-147

MIL-STD-1608

MIL-STD-731

MIL-S2D-984

cloth, Satin, Rayon and CLoth, Twill, Rayon -

Braid, Textile, Tubular Cloth, Gabardine; Wool, Polyester/Wool Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head tioii, Frontw

Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Siien) ‘- ‘“

Button, Insignia, Plastic Cloth. Felt Fabric, ComDoaite Undercollar - Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Pack)

Cloth, Fueibles

Textile Test KethOdB Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized Unit had Provision fOr Evaluating Quality of Coats, Women’s, Dress

Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets

Proviaiona for Size Labelina of Women’s Uniform Clothing

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2,1,2 !2ther Government documents. The following other Government document forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unlees otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation.

Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR 52.209)

[Copie6 of the manual smy be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.)

MILI-c-29427B(MC)

2.2 Non-Government pUblfC&tiOnB. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extant 6peclfied herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are 00D adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the MDISS cited in the 801icitatLon. Unless otherwiee specified, the Leeues of documents not lieted in the DODISS are the ieaues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Department of Defense Standard Shades For Sewing Threads

Department of Defense Standard Shades For Buttons

(Applications for copies ehould be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 409 W. 44th St., New York, NY 10016- 0927) .

ANERICAN SOCIETY

ASTM D 3951

FOR TESTING”AND MATERIALS

Standard Practice for Comercial Packaging

(Application for copies ehould be addreeeed to the American Society for Testing and r.?aterials,1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103- 1187. )

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available froin the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through librariea or other informational eervicee.)

2.3 Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedertce. Nothing in this document however, supereedea applicable laws and regulations unlees a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. RSQUIREKENTS

3.1 fX.andard sampleq. Standard samples, when fumiehed, are eolely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from thie specification may appear in the sample, in which case the epeclfication ehall govern.

3.2 First article. when

furnish eample unit(e) for

4.4 and 6.4).

specified (see 6.2), the first article inspection contractor shall and approval (see

XXL-C-29427B(MC)

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3,3 ~

3.3.1 pa6icma terfa 1. The basic material ehall be as follows:

clasB 1. Cloth, polyesterhool gabardine, 10.6 ounce, green shade 2212, confordng to type II, class 12 of MIL-c-10176 (see 6.3),

3.3.2 &ininq. The material for lining the coate shall be as follows:

Class 1. Cloth, rayon, twill, 3.7 ounce, grean shade 2209, conforming to claas 1 of MIII-C-36t3.

3.3.3 plae blndinq. The binding for the underarm shield shall be bias cut from the Md.ng material 6pecified in 3.3.2. The binding shall he cut 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide, and shall have ei.zed edges.

3.3,4 Undercollar material. The undercollar material 6hall be cloth, wool flannel confoming to A-A-50067. The material shall be dyed a ehade to approximate the shade of the baaic material specified in 3.3.1. The material shall ahow good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The acidity (pH) requirement and colorfastness to pergplration and crocking requirement shall not apply. A.6an alternate, a compos~te undercollar fabric conforming to 141L-C-29137 ~Y ~ used in a shade to approximate the shade of the basic material 8pecLfied in 3.3.1.

3.3.5 Collar l.nterlininu material. The collar interlining material for all classes ehall be cloth, cotton buckram, natural, conforming to type I, of A-A-50186, excapt that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with Xethod 5580 of PED-STD-191.

3.3.6 ?Olv ester twill. The material for the Stay6 for the simulated breast pocket, armhole seam, and shoulder seam shall be polyester twill cloth, ehade black, conforming to claee. 1 of A-A-52106, except that the seem efficiency and colorfastness requfremente for perspiration and trucking shall not apply. The cloth shall be blan cut for shoulder and armhole ataye.

3.3.7 a. The cotton tape shall conform to type III, claee 1 of DDD-T-86, 114 inch vide for reinforcing the folded edge of the eimulated pocket welt and armholes for all classee of coats, and 3/8 inch wide for the front edge of all claaeee of coats.

3.3.8 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall be ae follows:

Class 1. Type ~, of IIIL-c-15065, except that the cotton and polyester stays shall be dyed black.

3.3.9 Shoulder pads, The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 of MIL-P-15064.

MIL-C-29427B(HC)

3.3.10 sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pade IV of MIL-P-15064, shall conform to type

3.3.11 Eusible interlinings

3.3.11.1 Jhmible fnterlf.ni.nafor small Darts. The fusible

interlining for the collar and full front facing, shoulder etraps, and top welt ehall be nonwoven cloth, conforming to type V, claBe 1, etyle B of HIL-C-44296, The color shall be black or charcoal. The fuei.ble shall ba Pellon Style 8313, Handler 7208, or squal. The fusing conditi.one shall be ag directed by the supplier or temperature 280° to 290°F, 140° to 14socE, time 12 to 15 seconds, preseure 4 to 6 psi..

3.3.11.2 Fusi ble coat fronts. The coat front may be fused using a twill weave woven fusible conforming to type III, class 1 style B of UIL-C-44296, or 100 percent cotton warp, 75 to 90 percent rayon, 10 to 25 percent wool, with a weight of 3.5 (m.tnimum) to 4.0 ounces (mSXhum), and a color of polyamide dot color black or charcoal.

The fusible shall be Kufner Style G35, National Style 200FL, Crown Style 241, or egual. The fusing conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or 300° to 310°F, 140° tO 145° CE, time 12 to 15 seconds, pressure 4 to 6 psi.

3.3.12 Hanaer bra%d. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, with a breaking strength of not less than 50 pounds in the warp direction, and shall COnfOI’m to type Ix, class 1 of NIL-B-371. The color for class 1 shall closely match shade T-1, Cable No. 66023.

3.3.13 Thread

3.3.13.1 Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196.

The thread for mschine sewing shall conform to type I, size A for all outside eesmlng and etltching; eize B and Blze F for buttonhole, needle and looper threads felling.

, respectively; and eize O for mechine The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, size A, 2-ply.

3.3.13.2 Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to

.A-A-52094; type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all i.neide seaming and stitching, overedge etitching, and for belt and belt fastener buttonholes; type 11, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons; and type I, ticket No. 20, 3-ply for mechine tacking armholee. The thread for basting shall be of good commercial grade. As an alternate for cotton thread, a polye8ter-cotton-covered thread conforming to A-J4-50199, ticket NO. 50, 2 or 3-ply may be used. The thread for basting shall be good commercial-grade cotton.

3.

sha.

.13.3 Nvlon thread. The nylon thread for padding lapele of coats 1 conform to type III, size 00 of V-T-295.

MIL-C-29427B(MC) .. .

3.3.13.4 SW thetic threa~. A monofilament synthetio thread may be uBed for those beating operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetlo thread is soluble. When thle thread 18 used, any residue mmalning on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed,

3.3.13.5 Color and colorfastness The thread shall be dyed shade T-1, Cable No, 66023 (ace DOD Stan&rd Color Cafi of Official Standardized Shades for $ewfng Threads). The cotton thread for basting and for machine tackfng ansholee may be white. The colored thread8, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

In addition, the silk thread shall chow good colorfastness to light.

3.3.14 *. The buttonhole gi.mp shall be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be ehade T-1, Cable No. 66023. The gimp shall show goed colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.15 Buttons

3.3.15.1 Class 1. The insignia buttons shall be plastic, black CO1OX, conforming to HIL-B-20289, type I, 40-M_ne and type II, 27-line. - an alternate, metal ine@nia buttons conforming to KIL-B-3461, type II, style 3, class B, subclam 2 may be used. A dull black epoxy flnlsh in lieu of dull black enamel finish fs acceptable with prior approval.

3.3.16 kabe16. Each coat shall have an identification label and a ai.ze label as Bpecified below. The coats are intended to be dry cleaned and the labels ehall show colorfastness to dry cleaning.

3.3.16.1 Identification label. The identification label ehall conform to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20. The content and format shall be aa followsl

Nomenclature (item description) Contract number Name of contractor Fiber content

3.3.16.2 Size label. The size label ehall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription on the eize label shall conform to MIL-STO-984, Table II, Body Dimensions for Mar!ne Corps, Table III, Height Ranges, and Figure 2. M examples shall bs as follows:

Stock Number: 8410-00-000-0000 Bust Circ: 359 Hlp Clrc: 37-1/2- Height: 63-1/2 to 67-1/2” (R)

(Size Cede 8)

, “-l MIL-c-29427B(HC)

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3.3.16.3 Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/teg of DDD-I.I-20. This label/tag shall be located so that lt ie completely visible on the item when it ia folded andlor packaged as mpecified and eo that I.tcauses no damage to the item.

3.4 Desi~. The coat shall be the US Marine Corpe design shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3. It shall be a four-button, single-breaeted, semiformfitting, fully-lined coat having a panel-type front, a four-piece back with center vent, simulated breaat pocket with outside welt, inaLde pocket, shoulder straps to button, ornamental sleeve cuffs, rolled collar with worked eyelet in each end for branch of service insignia, and notched lapel.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furniehed to the

contractor by the Government, The working patterns shall be identical to the Government working patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns ehall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for using during construction are allowed on the working patterns. The etandard patterns shall provide 3/16-inch allowance for seame at the edge of lapels, front edges of coat, and for shoulder atrapej 3/4-inch allowance for ❑ide seams; 5/8-Lnch for center back seams; and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams, except aa otherwise specified in Table 11, Standati patterns shall chow eize, seam allowance, and directional lines for cutting. The standard patterms are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts.

3.5.1 JJ.at of uattern oarta. The coats shall be cut from the materials and number of pattern parts specified in Table 1.

TASLE I. pattern Darts iateriala I Pattern parts

?olyesterlwool ]abardi.ne (class 1)

Front Side front Center back Side back Front facing (right Front facing (left) Top sleeve Under sleeve Top collar Armhole shields Pocket welt Shoulder straps cuff

:ut parta

HIL-C-29427B(HC)

TASLE I. pattern parts (contd. )

I

Materials

Cloth, twill, rayon

Cloth, polyeeter twill

Cloth, cotton buckram

Cloth, wool flannel

Shapers

Karker8

Pattern parts

Front Right center back Left center back Side back Top eleeve Under sleeve

Breaat pocket InBide pocket undercollar

Undercollar stay

Undercollar shaper hpel working shaper Finiehed collar and lapel Left vent shaper

Sreaet pocket marker Collarstand marker Sleeve cuff marker Right front marker

:ut parta

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3.6 Construction. The coate shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations, and the etitchr eeam and atltohi.ng types specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact eeguence of the operation lieted in Table II, but all operation specified shall be ueed to manufacture the coat.

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3.6.1 StftCh06, seams, and.atitch$nq. The stitch, seam, and

etitching type8 specified in Table II shall Conform to FED-STD-751.

The number of etltchee per inch ae specified in Table II indicatefl the minimum and mexlnnon number permitted.

3.6.1.1 ~acki.na nd iZfLP~q o The ends of eeams and etitching produced with 301 ~titch type, when not caught in other 8eams or etltchingr shall be backpacked not less than 114 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch typee) shall be eecured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch.

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XIL-C-29427B(MC)

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3.6.2 shade markinq. The component parte of each coat cut from one piece of baeic material and lining material, including pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, shall be 8hade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Sized parts cut from the ends shall be identified for size. linymethod of shade marking may be used except x

(a) Corrosive metal faetening devices

(b) Adhesive-type tickets which show discoloration or the use of an adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the tickete

(c) Sew-on shade tickete

3.7 Fiqures. The figures are furnished for LnformetLon purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figuree, the written specification shall govern.

3.8 Manufacturing OperationB requirements. The coats shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table II. The contractor ie not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished coat is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II . Minor modifications are permitted where neceaaary when using automatic equipment. Thef3e modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.8.1 Abbreviate.ona in Table of Operations. The abbreviations u6ed in Table II are as follows:

Stch In Ndl Bob Lpr Mchne Brtck Comrcl Smlr Btn Btnhl Incl Dbl

Stitch Inch Needle Bobbin Looper tfachine Bartack Commercial Similar Button Buttonhole Including Double

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MIL-c-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT

S)?.An/

10. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH Z%II/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

1. Cuttinq.

a. Cut the coats i.nstrict accordance wLth patterna fur-nished by the Government.

b. Cut all material in the direction indicated by the directional lineB on the pat-tern. The directional linee shall be placed in the warp direction of the cloth unlees otherwiee Indicated on the pattern.

c. All polyester/wool parts of the coat shall be cut from one piece of baaic material, except armhole ehielde may be cut from the ends. The welt piece for the eimulated brea6t piece ehall be cut in accord-ance with the patterns fur-nished. When armhole shielde are cut from ends, the shields shall match each other.

d. The fronts, aide backs, and center back lining ehall be cut from one piece of rayon lining material. All other rayon lining patis may be cut from ends. When pairs of sleeve linings are cut from ends, the Ghede of the lining in each pair ehall match,

e. The interlining for the etay of the simulated breast pocket shall be cut in accord-ance with the patterns furnished.

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MIL-C-29427B(MC) #

TABLE 11. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

CX?EWiTION

Cut thg. (contd. )

Cut the polyester twill stays for armhole, back neckline, and shoulder eeam on the biaa, 3/4 inch wide and 4 to 4-112 inches long.

f. Cut the cotton warp spun hai.rwool filling cloth for th[ undercollar interlining in accordance with the pattern.

9. Cut the undercollar from undercollar material in accor-dance with pattern furnished.

h. The right front shall be dressed in the front opening only (see Oper. 38).

L. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

Replacement of damaged parts.

a. Replace, at any time of cutting, any parts of the coat containing holes or serious weakening defecte euch as smashes, multiple floate, loose weakening slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes, shade bare and dye streaks or unsightly slubS, etc.

b. Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing pro-cess by needle chewe which ma> develop into a hole, scissor or knife cute, teara, holes, mends or burns in the material.

sEAw

STCH STCH STCF

TYPE TYPE IN

THREAD

NDL BOBJ

LPR

MIL-c-29427B(MC) \

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd.)

SEAW

ro. OPERATION STCH STCH STCE ~%B/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

3. shade markinq.

a. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.2) all component parts cut from one piece of basic material, and the two parts of the undercollar to insure uniform shade and size throughout the coat. AU linfng parte shall be marked, bundled or tfcketed to insure uniform shade and size throughout the garment,

b. The use of ti.ckete with any metal faeteni.ng devices or new-on ehade tickets is pro-hibited on the rayon lining.

4. Make .ghoulder strarm.

Yinished aDnearance. The shoulder etrap shall be uniformly stitched and ehall finish smooth and flat, with-out twiste, gatheret or puck-ere. The buttonhole ehall be clean cut, well made, properly poai.tioned, well worked over gimp to fit a 27-line i.nelgnla button and the etltching ehall be securely caught in the ba6-ic material. The gimp shall be pulled through to the un-derside of the buttonhole and the purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the strap, The ehoulder strap may be fused.

a. The shoulder straps &hall be made of two plys of baei.c material and one ply of inter-lining.

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (con,td.)

SEAW THREAo

?0. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NOL BOB,

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

4. Pak e shoulder etraDs. (contd. )

b. Fold aide edges, face-to- 301 SSe-2(a) lo- AA face, and Beam together with a 14 114-inch Beam.

Preaa seam open with a ~eated pressing iron or pressing machine.

d. Stitch pointed end of 301 SSe-2(b) lo- AA atrapa with a 1/4 inch seem. 14

e. Trim polnta and turn the etraps.

f, Fold the edgee in accord- 301 BSm-2(a) lo- AA ante with the notches and top- 14 (silk stitch the strapa uniformly 1/8 inch from the edge.

9. Make a horizontal, eyelet Btn- ------. 38 AA end, equare bar type, cut hl per first buttonhole, 3/4 inch btn-long, in each atrap through all plies midway between the (::-back and front edges with the ni- Lnside edge of the eyelet mum placed so that in the finished not coat, the edge of the shoulder incl strap button will be 1/4 to br-lf2 inch from the edge of the tck ) collar. The purling ehall fl.nlsh’on the outside of the etrap.

h. The buttonhole ehall be well worked over gimp and the ends of the gimp shall be pulled through to the under-side.

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XIL-C-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd.)

SEFw [0.

THREAD

OPERATION STCH STCK STCH NDL SOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

4. )4ake shoulder stra9@. (contd. )

i. Securely bartack the ends Brtck ------- 21 AA of the buttonhole and trim the per ends of the thread and gimp. br-tck @lJ-mum )

5. )4ake undercollar

a. The undercollar aesembly f3hall consist of one piece of undercollar cloth and a single piece of interlining material.

b. Pad the interlining to the 103 SSm-1 4- AA undercollar with 6 to 7 rowa (each row) 6 of blindsti.tching, Prees undercollar flat.

c. Mark and trim undercollar in accordance with the shape of the pattern. Trim the interlining 1/8 inch back from the neck edge of the under-collar and collar ende.

d. Mark the breakli.ne of the undercollar with the collar-etand marker.

e. Stitch the breakline in 301 SSa-1 lo- A?.

accordance with the mar)c and or 14 etitch the undercollar tc the interlining 1/2 inch from the 401 SSa-1 lo- AA outer and end edges. 14

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TASLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. ) sEAM/ THREAO

10. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB,

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

6. A8semble topcollar and undercollar.

Finished EIPPearance. The collar shall be uniform in appearance and shall finish emooth and.flat without twists, gathere, pucker6, pleats or raw edges (outer and eldes ). The felling shall not be too tight or loose and the collar material shall be 8ec-urely caught in the stitching.

The eyelets shall be well worked with the purling on either aide of the collar and shall finieh with a 1/8 inch diameter opening.

a. Position topcollar between 301 LSa-1 6- AA undercollar and interlining 8 with the outer edge abutting the undercollar interlining seam and with the notchee aligned. Join topcollar %0 Lnterlining with a row of stitching 3/16 inch from the 1appeal edge of the topcollar.

b . Join topcollar to under- 304 LSa-1 8- AA collar at outer edge with zig- 10 zag stitching, properly dL6-trfbutlng the fullnees between the notches. The =igzag stftching ehall extend to the end of the collar.

Turn the topcollar to the :&ide, face to face with the

301 SSa-1 8- AA m dercollar, folding evenly wlth the top edge of the in-terlining.

‘1:.., HIL-c-29427B(MC)

Tl@LE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

SEAW THRBAD

10. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

6. Assemble topcollar and undercollar. (contd. )

Stitch the ends of the under-collar to the top collar with a 1/8 inch seam. Trim the ends and the corner of the seam. Trim the ende and the corner of the =eem and turn assembly, forcing out the collar peints.

d. Baate the top edge end 101 ends, forcing out the point8 or of the outer corners of collar HoP-and baata along the breakline per with the fullness placed be-tween the two rows of basting stitchee.

e. Prese the collar snccth and flat with a basted press-fng machine. Edgee and cor-ners shall be smooth, flat and uniformly even.

f. Trim the neck edge of the topcollar to provide for proper seaming to the coat, and out a guide notch in the lower edge of the topcollar at the center.

9. Make one eyelet at each yt- ------- 20 AA end of the collar 1 inch from per (Silk) the end and outer edge, re- eye-spectively, The eyelet finish let 00 shall be well worked, and min- (sflk) shall finish with a l/8-inch imum opening.

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MIL-C-29427B(HC)

TASLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

SEMI TRRSAD

?0. OPSRATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB1

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

7. stitch Doint of cuff.

a. Fold the cuff lengthwi.ee 301 Osf-1 lo- AA at the point, with wrong side 14 out, and stitch the point 1/8 inch from the raw edges.

b. Turn cuff, completely working out the point.

c. Turn under the upper edge 101 of the cuff, forming the or finished curved edge in accor- Hand dance with the ehape of the pattern. Preoa smooth and flat with a heated preesing iron or pressing machine, creaaing the edge; or the uPPer edge may be baated in-stead of preseed.

8. Seam sleeves at forexl.

pf.nished acmmarance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathera, puckers, or pleats, and shall start and finish evenly.

Position the top and un- 301 SSa-1 12- AA & sleeve with notchee match- er 16 i.ngand join at the forearm with a 3/8-inch eeam. 401 Ssa-1 12- AA

b. Spread open the seam and press flat, holding seam short, with a heated pressing iron.

141L-C-29427B(MC)

TASLB 11. CONSTRUCTION OF

COAT (contd.)

SSAW

io, OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOBI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

9. Join cuff to 81eevQ.

Finl~hed .9cmearance. me upper Curvti edge of cuffs shall be uniformly stitched to the sleeves.

a. Hark the sleeve in accord-ance with the eleeve cuff mar-ker for positioning the cuffe, with notch on the cuff pattern marker matching the forearm seam line and the lower edge of pattern in line with the bottom raw edge of sleeve.

b. Po6j.tion the cuff at the 301 LSd-1 12- AA mark and eeam to the body of 16 (Silk) the eleeve 1/8 inch from the or upper edge. Trim the ende of 00 the cuff even with the backarm (silk) edge of the top and under-sleeve, if necessary.

10. seam sleeve5 at backarq.

Finlehed apDearance. The backazm seam shall fj.nieh smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleate, and ehall start and fi.nl.ehevenly.

a. Position the top and un- 301 SSa-1 12- AA deraleeve together at the or 16 backarm and stitch with a 3/8-inch seam. 401 SSa-1 12- AA

b. Spread open the backarm and cuff seams md prees flat with a heated preaBing iron.

1 I lfIL-C-29427B(HC)

TASLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. ) sSAW Tmw

~o. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

11. Tack cuff to sleeve.

Finished appearance. The bottom edge of the cuff shall finieh smooth and flat with-out pleats, puckers, or bulges.

a. Turn the cuff outlet to the inside against the bottom end of the sleeves, in accord-ance with the notches, and baste along the turned edge of the cuff.

b. Tack the raw edge of the 103 sSM- 1 4- A --cuff to the body of the aleeve 6 with blindetitching. The blindstitchee shall not be ex-poeed on the outeide of the sleeve cuff.

c. On the finished coat, the height of the cuff, when measured from folded bottom edge of cuff, shall be 2-3/4 z 1/4 inchen at the forearm and backarm Beame, end 4-3/4 & 1/4 inches at the point.

12. Seam eleeve lininq,.

F1 nished am! earance. The sleeve lining shall be uniform in appearance, uniformly etitched, and shall finish emooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleata. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

HIL.c-29427B(XC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

SEAM/

[0.

THRSNI

OPEIUM’ION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOBI

mE TYPE IN LPR

12. Seam sleeve lininq. (contd. )

Poei.tion the top and un- 301 SSa-1 lo- AA %rsleeve lining in accord- or 14 ante with the notches on the pattern and join the forearm 401 Ssbd-1 lo- AA and backarm, respectively, 14 with a 3/8-inch seam.

~ an alternate, when using a 301 Ssa-1 lo- 50 50 eleeve lining felling machine, or 14 join backarm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining. The 401 Ssa-1 lo- 50 50 dfatance between the notchee 14 on the forearm eeam shall be left open.

Position the sleeve lining top Hand --_.--_-notches co the top of forearm or :- ‘- ‘-seam and top of the backarm sleeve hem. Tack the forearm 301 SSa-1 4- 50 50 eeam and baokarm seam of the 8 sleeve lining to the forearm and backarm seam, respective-ly . The backarm seam tacking shall extend from apprnx@te-ly the midpoint of the back-arm seam to not more than 6 inches above creaaed bottom edge, The forearm seam tack-ing shall be for a dietance of 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

13. assemble sleeve and sleeve linlnq.

~in{shed appearance, The sleeve lining shall be posi-tioned and seamed, or tacked, to sleeve without twiets, gathers, puckers, or pleats.

MIL-C-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd.)

ssAM/ THRSAD

10. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOBI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

13. Assemble sleeve and sleeve .w!&!M. (contd. ) a, Position the undersleeve lining on the undersleeve with the top notch in the backarm of underaleeve lining aligned with top edge of un-dereleeve and the upper edge of the sleeve lining extending 3/4 to 1 inch beyond the arm-hole edge of the sleeve.

b. Seam or tack by hand the 301 Ssa-1 AA forearm and backarm sleeve $ Comrcl lining eeam allowance to the top sleeve backarm and fore-arm seam allowance, respect-ively, properly distributing the fullness in the lining.

The stitching shall extend from approximately 5 inches above the finiehed bettom edge of the sleeve, up to approxi-mately midway to the armhole edge of the underarm and back-arm seam.

c. Turn sleeve lining over the sleeve.

14. Fell tUrnuD of sleeve lininq;

press eleevee.

Finished aDDearance. The 6leeve linings shall not be short, tight, or twisted.

a , Turn under the bottom edge 101 0 f sleeve lining to finiBh 1 or to 1-1/4 inches from the fin- Hand ished bottom edge of sleeve, and baste to turnup of sleeve.

I

I

10.

14.

15.

HIL-c-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd.)

OPERATION

,Fell turnuo of sleeve lin ngi prees sleeves. (contd, )

b. Fell the folded edge of eleeve lining to turnup of 61eeve with blindstitching.

c. Turn eleevee right eide out and aaaemble in pairs.

Insert a sleeve pad in the sleeve to avoid creasing the front and back edge. Press Bmooth and flat with a heated pressing machine, Make welt.

Finished ame arance. The welt shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish emooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges.

m. The welt for the elsoulatd breast pocket shall be made of a single piece of baeic mater.

ial folded in accordance with notches and reinforced at the inside folded edge with l/4-tich wide cotton tape.

b. Poaltion the tape on the underside of the welt piece with one edge even with the bold notches and eeam 1/16 inch from the edge of the tapf next to the fold line.

c. Fold the welt at the fold notches with the tape on the outside and close the ende wLth a 114 inch eeam.

:TCH

!YPE

or

Hand or

SEAMI

STCH

TYPE

Ssrn-1

LSbj-1

Ssa-1

SSa-1

WC}

[N

6-

1:

lo-lo-

NDL BOBI

LPR

(Silk)

A

A

A

A

A

A

KIL-c-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd.)

SEAW THREAD

~o, OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NOL BOBI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

15. flake welt. (contd. )

d. Turn the welt face side 301 SSe-2(b) 12- AA out, working out the edges and 16 corners completely. Edge- 6idea (Silk) stitch welt 1/8 inch from the ❑earned and folded edges. The Osf-1 00 welt shall finish with the cotton tape stitched to the folded (Silk) inside of the welt. edge

e. Press me welt smooth and flat with a heated pressing pattern.

16. Make armhole shields.

Finished appe arance, The armhole shields shall be made from one ply of baaic material and shall finish without puck-eret gathers, or raw edges.

a. Bind the rounded edge of 301 BSb-1 lo- AA shield with bias binding, or 14 turning under the outside raw edge of the binding only, and 401 BSb-1 lo- AA catching the turned under por- 14 tion in the etitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

17. stitch darts in front 11.ninq.

F1.nished aDDearance. Tho darta shall be tapered to a point at the upper ends.

a . Sew the darts with a 3/E- 301 Osf-1 lo- AA inch seem, tapering the dart 14 to a point at the upper ends and securely back tack.

1“ MIL-c-29427B(MC)

TABLB II. coNSmUJCTION OF COAT (contd.)

SSAW

10.

THNBAD

OPERATION STCH STCH STCK NOL BO13{

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

18. Fake lnaide WC ket .

~inia hed appe arance. The pocket shall be uniformly stitched and finished smooth and flat without causing distortion.

The pocket shall be made :; 2 plys of poly/twill material 5 inches wide by 6-1/2 inches long.

b. Position both plys of 301 SSa-1 lo- AA pocketing material face-to- 14 face with notchee matching and Btitch tegether from the top notch acroae the top, back, bottom and up the front to the bottom notch with a 3/8-inch seam leaving a 4-1/2 inch opening for the pocket.

c. The notch for placement of 3aI SSa-1 lo- AA inside pocket shall be in line 14 with the third buttonhole from the top. Attach the flont pocket openings in accordance with the notches to the right front facing and the right front lining, respectively, with a 3/13-inch seam, leaving a 4-1/2 inch pocket opening.

d. Raiae-sti.tch the pocket 301 Ssc-1 lo- AA material onto the facing and 14 lining, respectively, with a 1/16 inch topstltch.

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. ) sEAw THREAD

10. OPERATION STCH STCH STCSI NDL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

19. Seam front llninu to facinq and sew on label.

FlnL8hed apDearance. The lining shall be carefully seamed to the facing so that in the finished coat, the lining shall be smooth and flat along the facing without creases, bulgee, overlapping of excess material, or other defects or distortions.

a. Position the lining on the 301 SSa-1 lo- AA facing with notches matching or 14 and seam the front edge of the lining to the back edge of the 401 SSa-1 lo- AA facing 3/8 inch from the edge. 14 The stitching shall extend from the top (shoulder) edge of facing to the bottom notch of facing approximately 1.1/4 inchee from the bottom edge.

b. Sew the identification 301 SSbj-1 lo- AA label to the left front lining 14 with a single row of etitching 1/16 inch from each edge of the label. The label shall be positioned horizontally with the lower edge of the label 3 inches above the bottom edge of the finished coat. The ends of the label stitching shall overlap not less than three stitches.

20. Pre98 front lfnina and waist @2zlX.

a. Preaa the facing joining seams and waist darta smooth and flat with a heated pres8- Lng iron or pressing machine.

I NIL-c-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

SSAW TRRSAO

10. OPERATION STCH STCH ST(X NOL BOBI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

20. Press frQnt ~j.nina and waist @KGEL. (contd.)

b. The facing-lining joining Eeam shall be pressed with the raw edge of tie Beam allowance tOWard the back. The waist darta shall be preaeed with the edge towards the back.

21. Jo in back llnina Darts .

Finished armearance. Back linings shall be carefully joined without ple;;~,e~&k-ere, or gathers.

shall start and finish evenly at seam line.

a, Position back linings wfth 301 SSa-1 lo- AA notches n!ntching and join to- 14 gether at the center with a 3/8-inch seam, stopping at the top of the vent.

b. Position left end right 301 SSa-1 lo- AA side to the respective center 14 back linings, matching notches and join with a 3/0 inch seem.

22. Join back and front 11ninus.

.Flniahed aupe arance. The linings shall be carefully joined without ple:;~,e~~k-ers, or gathers.

shall start and finish evenly at the seam line.

a. Position the beck and 301 SSa-1 lo- AA front linings together and 14 join at the aides with a 3/4-inch seam.

MIL-C-29427B(UC)

TABLE 11. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. ) ssAM/ THRSAD

!JO. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOW

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

23. press linina 0eanm ond darts.

4. Press the facing-lining joining seams, side and back seams and the waist darts s~oth and flat with a heated pressing iron or presning machine.

b. The facing-lining joining seams, side seams, and left and right back seams shall be pressed with the raw edges of the seam allowance toward the back . The lining shall be folded face-to-face along the center back aeain and the seam shall be pressed flat.

24. Join backa.

Flninhed appearance. ThO aide and center backe shall be joined without gathers, puck-ers, or pleatg. The folded edge of the left vent shall be in vertical line with the center back seam.

a. Stitch the l/4-inch wide 301 SSaa-1 lo- AA stay tape to the inside of the 14 left center back along the vent, with the edge of the tape poeit~oned approximately 1/8 inch in front of the fold notch of the vent.

1.

TASLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd.)

sEAM/ TNRKAO

?0. OPEIWTION STCH STCH STCK NOL BOBI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

24. Join backs . (contd. )

b. Poei.tion the center backa 301 SSa-1 lo- AA with edges even, and join with 14 a 5/O-inch seam from the top edge of the backs to approxi-mately 3[4 inch below the top end of the vent, and from that point continue to stitch diag-onally across the top end of the vent.

c. Turn the left vent to the 301 Osf-1 lo- AA inside of the left center 14 back, in accordance with the notches, and edge stitch unL-formly 1/8 inch fmm the folded edge. The folded edge of the vent shall be in line with the center back seam line.

d, Join the left and right 301 SSa-1 lo- AA side backs to the respective 14 center back with a 3/8-inch seam.

e. Seam the 3/4 inch-wide 301 SSaa-1 lo- AA polylcotton twil~ stay to the 14 underside of the back neckline 1/8 inch from the outer edge of the neckline.

25. Press back seams.

a. The side and center back seam ehall be pressed with a heated pressing iron or preBe-ing machine.

HIL-C-29427B(XC)

SEAW THREAO

Jo. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NIX.BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

25. Pres8 back seams. (contd. )

b. Notch the top end of the right vent diagonally from the juncture point of the vent and the center back to the lower end of the stitching for the center back ❑earn.

c. Spread open the side and center back seams, respective-ly, and presB flat.

26. ToDStitch tOD end of vent.

Finished appearance. The edge of the right aide of the vent shall extend beyond the center seam allowance of the left back part.

a, Stitch and backstitch 301 SSa-1 lo- AA acro8a the top end of the vent 14 (Silk) through all the plies from the back center seam to the edge of the vent, for a distance of 1 inch.

27. Join front and side front.

Finished appearance. Bust linee on both sides shall be alike. Fronte and aide fronts shall be carefully joined without puckers or gathera.

The seems ehall start and fi-nish evenly at the fieam line.

The contour of the waiet and hip line shall be maintained in the eeaming.

MIL-C-29427B(XC)

TASLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

SEAw THREAD

10. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NOL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

27. oin front and ❑~do front.

~contd.)

a. Sew the dart with a 3/8- 301 Ssa-1 lo- AA inch seam, tapering to a point 14 at the upper end, and securely back tack.

b. Poeltion front and aide 301 SSa-1 lo- AA fronts with notches matching, or 14 and join together with 3/8-i.nch eeame. 401 SSa-1 lo- AA

c. Spread open the front seam and waist darts and press flat with a heated preeslng iron, maintaining contour.

d. Tape gorge line on the 301 SSaa-1 lo- AA underelde with a l/4-inch tapa 14 from shoulder to 1/4 inch be-low the top of the lapel.

28. ~eam reLnfOrcOment Btav to PM ole and shoulder.

Yi nished aDPe ra c The polyester and cot;onnt&l reinforcement stays shall be sewn to the axnihole and ahoul-er edges of the front wLthout gatherer puckerar or pleate.

The top end of the armhole stay and lower edge of the shoulder etay shall form a right angle at the armhole without the staye overlapping each other.

ssAu/ THREAD Jo. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

28. seam renforcement stav to armhole and 8houlder. (contd.)

Seem the 3/4-inch wide 301 Ssaa-1 lo- AA ~lyest.ar and cotton twill 14 etays to the underside of the fronta along the shoulder edge and upper fronts along the shoulder edge and upper front edge of the armhole, respect-ively, 1/8 inch from the outer edges.

29. Assemb~ ated breast pocket welt on left front.

Finished aDD ar The simulated breaetepo~~~”shall be smooth and fla”twith the ends of the welt .uniformly stitched and with no pucker-ing. In the fhished garment, the breast pocket welt shall be horizontal with the bottom edge of the coat,

a. Mark the left front in accordance with the breaet pocket marker for position of breast pocket welt. Mark the welt seam line on the under-eide 1 inch fmm the folded edge for proper. seaming to the front.

b. Position the polyester and 301 LSbj-1 lo- AA’ cotton twill stay piece for 14 the pocket on.the underside of the fmnt. Position the welt on the outside of the left front, with marks on the welt and front matching, and the folded edge of the welt to-warda the bottom edge of the coat.

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

SEMI

Jo. OPSRATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE TITE IN LPR

29. Assemble simulated breaet pocket welt on left front.

(contd. )

Seam top ply of welt to the front at the mark though the stay piece,

c. ‘2?urnthe welt with the 301 SSe-2(b) ::- AA folded edge of the welt to- (silk) wards the top of the front.

‘l?c.pstitchboth ends of the welt to the front, 1/8 inch from the seamed edges of the welt . The line of stitching shall extend from the lower seamed line of the welt up to the folded edge of the welt.

The welt shall be bli.nd-stitched to the body of the coat, and the stitching shall not be visible on the outside of the welt.

d. On the outside of the finished coat, the welt for tha simulated pocket shall measure 1 L 1/16 inch in height, and the width for each t!izecoat, measured along the top edge of the welt, Bhall be as follows:

Width of Welt Coat size (inches)

XO through 10 3-1/2 12 through 18 4

141L-C-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

SEMI THREAD

10. OPSRATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB1

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

30. ~.

Finiahod aDDearance. The fronts and eide backa shall be joined together without puck-ers or pleats. The seame shall start and finish evenly at seam line. The contour of the waist end hip line shall be maintained in the seaming.

a. Poeition aide fronts to 301 Ssa-1 lo- AA the side backs at the sides or 14 and join with 3/4 inch seams.

401 SSa-1 lo- AA

31. Press side seams.

a. Spread open the side seems and press flat with a heated preseing iron.

32. Tape armholes.

a. Sew the l/4-i”nch wide stay 301 SSaa-1 lo- AA tape to the inside at the lo- or 14 wer edge of the armhole, starting from approximately 1 401 SSaa-1 lo- AA inch above the notch in the 14 frents and continuing to the 8ide seam. Cut the tape and continue stitching tape along bottom and back edge to lower netch holding tape taut.

contlnue to stitch tape to back armhole to 1-1/4 inches from the shoulder.

b . From the lower back notch, 301 ssaa-1 lo- AA continue stitching the tape, -14 holding the tape taut along the back edge of the armhole to 3/4 inch from the shoulder.

I

10.

32.

33.

MIL-c-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF

OPERATION

YLID13aId101c3S, (contd. ) c, Pre8s armhole tapes and shoulder blade smooth and flat with a heated preeeing iron.

Interline fronts.

a. Poeitlon the left find right fronts on the respective coat front interlining and baete along the front eeams, pruperly dietributlng the fullnese over the breast area.

The baating shall extend from aPPrOx~tely 3 Lnchae from the shoulder edge of fronts to aPPrOxtitely 1-1/2 inches from the bottom edge.

b. Baste the left front along the welt- joining eeam line on the outside, with the front and interlining lying smooth and flat.

c. Tack the front and back ende of the 8imulated pocket stay to the coat front inter-lining. The tacking shall be am close aa poaelble to the cornere of the pocket.

d, Saate horizontally along the shoulder, allowing room for t!etting shoulder pads and working the fullness on the front toward6 the armhole.

Saste along the front of the armhole approximately 1-1/2 inches from the edge and con-tinue basting along the front edge below the breakline to aPProxhtely 1-1/2 inches from the bottom edge of front.

Hop-per

HOP-

per

HoP-or Hand

Eop-per

COAT (contd.)

SSAW

STCH

TYPE

THRSAO

NOL BOB,

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. ) sEAH/ 40.

THREAD

OPSRATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOBI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

33. Interline front~. (contd.)

e. %ste along the breakline 101 of lapel, etarting at the HoP-gorge, and continue ba8ting per along the front edge below the breakline to approximately 1-1/2 inches from the bottom edge of the front.

f. Baste along the top and 101 front edge of lapel down to HOP-the lower end of the lapel. per

34. Baste bridle taDe to lavel.

a. Position the 3/E-inch wide bridle tape on the interlining aide of the fronts along the breekline of the lapel, with the front edge of the tape in line wLth the notch in the gorge.

b. Beste tape thpmgh the i.n- 101 ----- 6- -- --terlinlng and the. front of or 8 coat along the breakline of the lapel evenly and smoothly, Hand ----- --holding the tape taut and :- ‘-properly distributing the fullnee.9. The tape shall ex-tend from the gorge notch to approximately 1-1/2 inches from the lewer edge of the lape 1.

1 ,, MIL-c-29427B(lfC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

[0.

SEAW

0P13R.kTION

TRREAD

STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

35. Pad lapels.

a. Pad the lapels with seven 103 SSm-7 A to eight rows of blindstitch- :- Or ‘-ing, from approximately 3/4 or S%-8 00 --inch from the front edge to the breaklLne, properly dLa- 314 SSm-7 4- AA tributing the fullness of the 8 interlining between the rows or 6::-8 00 00 of stitching to roll the lapele,

b. Blindstitch both .edgea of 103 SSm-2 4- A --the bridle tape to the inter- 8 lining, or or 00

314 SSm-2 AA F or

00 00

36. Press chegt and lanels.

a. Roll press the lapela, shrinking to el~nate the fullnees f- the interlining, on a suitable type heated pressing machine.

b . Preee the fronts indivld- Ually on a suitable type heated pressing machine to conform to the ehape of the body to elimfnate excese full-nem in the breast.

37. ~haw fronte, a . Nark and shape ~he front edge of the coat. Mark and ahape the lapels in accordance with the shaper furnished.

MIL-c-29427J3(KC) I

TAELE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. ) sEAM/ io.

THR~

OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

37. shape frOntB. (contd. )

b. Nark the coat 1-1/4 inchas from the bottom edge for the bottom turnup, Trim the coat front inter- &ng 1/4 inch back from the front edge of the fronts and top edge of the lapel. Trim bottom of i.nterllning to ap-proximately 1/4 inch above the mark for the bottom turnup.

ml In-process inspection of this operation shall take place at thie point before going to the next operatfon.

38. Baste facina-linina aesemblies to front.

a. Position the facing-lining 101 as6embly on outside of respec- HoP-tive fmnte and baste along per the breakllne, distributing the fullness in the breast area and continue to baste along the front and bottom edge. Baete front along top and front edges of lapel down to the lower end of the lapel, working the fullness towards the center of the’ lapel.

39. Join facinqs and fronts with.

s.t a . Join the facings and 301 SSab-1 lo- AA frents together 3/16 inch from 14 the top and front edges of 1apel and front edges of the

I

1.

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. )

10.

sEAN/

OPERATION

THREAD

STCH STCH STCH NDL BOB/

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

39. Join the faclnaa and fronta Ylth taDe. (contd. ) the coat, with the etay tape, 3/8 inch wide for all classes positioned on the interlining aide of the fsxmAB, The ~dge of the tape shall be 1/8 inch from the front edges and caught in the stitching. Con-tinue stitching along the lo-wer edge of the coat 3/16 inch above the front cutout with the tripe properly Poeltioned and caught in the stitching.

b. The tape shall extend from the lapel notch to 1-1/2 to 2 inches from the eide aeaum at the bottom of the coat, except that the tape is not required along the etep of the left front. The tape =hall be 6ewn with normal tension along the top and front edgee of the lapel and with slight teneion alOng front and bottom edges of coat.

c. pltemate. When fusible 301 SSab-1 4- AA front conetnction le used, 6 position tape 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge of the coat and etitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge of tepe, acrmaa the top of the lapel, down the front and acroee bottom to back of facing. Preae edge seam flat toward the front; pull ba6tlng thread.

!iIL-C-29427B(tlC) .

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd. ) ssAu/ THREAO

10. OPERATION STCH STCH STCH NDb 130BI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

40. Fell tape to interlininq.

a. Fell the back edge of the 103 SSm-1 4- AA stay tape to the coat front 6 interlining from the collar notch on top of the lapel to the end of the tape at the bottom edge,

b. Press the fronts and tape at the top and front edges of lapel, and front and bottom edges of the coat, smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or preaai.ng machine.

c. Remove all basting stitches. Trim lower front corner and corner of lapele.

Notch lapel for proper turn-ing.

d. Spread open the front facing seam from lapel notch ta the bottom edge of the coat and presB smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

41. Baete ~ Lmttom edae of coat.

a . Turn the facfng-lining as- 8emblies to the inside of the frents, working the corners of the lapels out completely.

Turn up to the bottom of the coat, lapptng the back edge of facing on the ends of the bot-tom turnup and working the frent corners out completely.

I

MIL-c-29427B(MC)

TABLE II. CONSTRUCTION OF COAT (contd.)

ssAM/ THREAo Jo, OPERATION STCH ST(X STCH NDIJ BOBI

TYPE TYPE IN LPR

41. paete fronts and bottom…