Air Force Mens Coat WNU 13-05B 07May2020_final.pdf

INCH-POUND

PD WNU 13-05B

7 May 2020

SUPERSEDES

PD WNUV 13-05A

25 June 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, MEN’S, SERVICE DRESS

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNUV, AFUO, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Air Force men’s service dress coat.

1.2 Classification. The men’s service dress coats are of the following Types and Styles, as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Types. The Types for the men’s service coat are as follows:

Type I – Officer coat with shoulder epaulets Type II – Enlisted coat

1.3 Lengths and sizes. The coats are available in the following lengths and chest sizes:

Schedule of sizes (chest).

X-Short 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

Short 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

Regular 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

Long 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

X-Long 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this document, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A 50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester- Covered A-A-52071 Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-52105 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55187 Braid, Textile, (Flat) A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon

A-A-59963 Thread, Polyester

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-3461 Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-15065 Coat Fronts MIL-C-29137 Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles MIL-DTL-371 Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-DTL-823 Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-DTL-32075 Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-DTL-15064 Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1490 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men’s, Dress (Copies of the above documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents that are Department of Defense adopted are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Technical Manual – Test Methods

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20 Fiber Analysis: Qualitative (DoD adopted) AATCC 20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning AATCC 158 Dimensional Changes on Dry-cleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method

Technical Manual Evaluation Procedures

AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining

(Copies of AATCC Technical Manuals are available online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ-Z 1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or http://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D629 Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles ASTM D737 Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics ASTM D747 Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam ASTM D2475 Standard Specification for Felt ASTM D3775/D3775M Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven

Fabric (DoD Adopted) ASTM D3776/D3776M Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article/pilot lot. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The design is a single breasted, semi-fitted and fully lined coat with a three (3) button front closure. The coat shall have two (2) inside breast welt pockets and one (1) simulated welt pocket in the upper left side of the chest. There shall be two (2) lower simulated double welt pockets with flaps inserted in the welts. All outside pockets are non-functional. The coat shall have a back vent. Figure 1 shows a front view of the Type I coat. The Type I coat shall have shoulder epaulets with buttons and buttonholes. Figure 2 shows the front and back views of the Type II coat, respectively. NOTE:

The sleeve bottoms are not hemmed, just turned up and basted or tacked.

3.4 Material.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 9.5 to 10.5 ounce blend of 55 percent polyester and 45 percent worsted wool serge cloth, Air Force Shade Blue 1620, conforming to MIL-DTL-823, Type III, Class 4.

3.4.2 Lining. The material for lining the fronts, sleeves, back, and the facings for the inside left and right breast pockets shall be a polyester twill cloth conforming to Class 3 of A-A-52106. The color of the lining material shall have a good match to Air Force Shade Blue 1086.

3.4.3 Fusible interlinings.

3.4.3.1 Small parts fusible interlining. The front lapel, lapel peak reinforcement, back, side body, top sleeve, under-sleeve, top collar, lower pocket flap, breast pocket welt, and shoulder epaulet known as “small parts” shall use a black or charcoal, nonwoven fusible interlining. It shall conform to Type V or VI, Class 1, Styles A or B or Type VIII, Class 2 or 4, Style A of MIL-C-44296. As an alternative, a black or charcoal, woven, lightweight fusible interlining for small parts, conforming to Type I, Class 1, Style A of MIL-C-44296 may be used. All dyed fusible interlining shall show a colorfastness rating of 3.5 to dry-cleaning and laundering when evaluated using the AATCC EP 1 and AATCC EP 2. Any given coat shall incorporate the same small parts fusible material.

3.4.3.2 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat fronts shall be a black or charcoal napped woven twill material conforming to Type II, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed dot type nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied to one (1) side in accordance with good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate the same fronts fusible material. As an alternative, a weft insert warp knit may be used as specified in Table I. All dyed fusible interlining shall show a colorfastness rating of 3.5 to dry-cleaning when evaluated using the AATCC EP 1 and AATCC EP 2.

TABLE I. Alternative fusible interlining requirements and fusing conditions.

Component Characteristic Requirement

Fusible Interlining Fiber content in fabric (%) Viscose 86 Polyester 14 Fiber content in warp and fill (%)

Warp: polyester 100 Fill: viscose 100 Total fabric weight 108 Net fabric weight (Gram/Square meters)

Coating weight (Gram/Square meters)

Coating content (mesh patterning)

Polyamide

Fusing Conditions Flat bed press Actual temperature 140-150 0C

Glueline 127 0C Pressure 350-500 G/CM2 Time 12-14 Seconds

Cleaning Dry clean only

3.4.3.3 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry-cleaning when tested as specified in Table VI and minimum 24 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.6.3. The small parts fusible interlining will be accepted if it begins to debond from the outershell but still meets the minimum or higher bond strength. It will also be accepted if the small part splits from itself but still meets the minimum tear strength of 6.0 ounces (170 grams) per inch (see 6.7).

3.4.3.4 Dimensional stability, fusible. The interlining, after fusing to the basic material as specified in 3.4.3.5, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in Table VI. Additionally, the interlining after fusing to the basic material as specified in 3.4.3.5 shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as required in Table VI. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering or delamination.

3.4.3.5 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and front fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded.

3.4.4 Pocketing cloth. The material for inside breast pockets and pocket stays shall be polyester and cotton matching the shade of the basic material or dyed black. It shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except that the non-fibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply.

3.4.5 Undercollar material. The material shall be a wool blend, felt-fabric composite, Air Force Shade Blue 1620, conforming to MIL-C-29137. As an alternative, a 100% polyester, needle punched non-woven material, weighing between 8.0-10.0 oz./square yard with a thickness between 0.07 to 0.095 inch at

0.6 PSI (pounds per square inch) and exhibiting a cross-machine direction stiffness 0.05 load pounds (minimum) in accordance with ASTM D747-10.

3.4.6 Floating chest piece. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to Type II, dyed black, of A- A-52105 (interlining); and CF1 of ASTM D2475. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to the pattern pieces as specified. The material shall be undyed and contain no sizing or resins.

3.4.7 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type I, Class 4 of MIL-DTL-15064. As an alternative, the shoulder pads shall conform to the following requirements: The shoulder pads shall have a top and bottom cover of 4 ounces per square yard, white needle punched polyester felt when tested in accordance with ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C. The filler shall be cotton, one piece shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. Multiple pieces are not acceptable. The top cover shall be notched for shoulder seam alignment 4-3/4 inches from the front of the pad. The pad shall be sewn in a concave shoulder fitting form utilizing multi-line of basting, totaling six (6) rows. The pad shall have a compressed finished thickness measuring 3/8 (± 1/8) inch using a one inch foot at 0.1 psi. The finished pad shall measure 8-1/2 to 9-1/2 inches in length and 4- 1/2 to 5 inches in width, with a 1/2 inch armhole cutout on each side. The pads shall not be significantly altered in thickness, shape, or dimension after being commercially dry-cleaned three (3) times with perchloroethylene. The pad shall have a minimum breaking strength of 6.0 pounds in the machine direction and a minimum of 3.0 pounds in the cross direction when tested in accordance with ASTM D5034, Option G-T or G-E.

3.4.8 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-DTL-15064 and except the length shall be 15 inches long.

3.4.9 Stay tape.

3.4.9.1 Cloth stay tape. The tapes for staying the lower armhole, top back armhole, and bridle shall be cotton, conforming to Type I, Class 1, 2, or 3 of A-A-52071, except that the non-fibrous material content shall not apply. The color shall be natural, bleached, or black. The tape for the bridle shall be 1/2 inch wide.

The tape for staying the lower armhole and top back armhole shall be 1/4 inch wide.

3.4.9.2 Fusible stay tape. The tape for staying the back neckline, top front armhole, and shoulder shall be 1/2 or 5/8 inch wide, cross cut tape, made from natural or dyed black polyester blend cloth conforming to Type V, Class 2 of MIL-C-44296. The raw edges of the tape shall be treated with synthetic resin to prevent raveling.

3.4.10 Fusible bridle tape. The fusible bridle tape shall be straight cut, dyed black or charcoal, conforming to Type V, Class 2, Style A or B of MIL-C-44296 with a width of 3/4 (± 1/32) inch. If the bridle tape needs to be pieced together, then the 3/4 inch edges shall be sewn using an LSa-1 seam with a 304 stitch at 12 to 16 stitches per inch and with 70/2 thread conforming to A-A-50199. All sewn edges shall be within the fusible dot area such that the adhesive will not exhibit any stitch breaks or blank areas on either side of the stitching. As an alternative, non-fusible tape, as specified in 3.4.9, may be used for the bridle.

3.4.11 Front edge tape, fusible. The fusible edge tape shall be Type I, Style B, Class 1, dyed black or charcoal, conforming to MIL-C 44296, except that it shall be cut in filling (crosscut) direction at a width of 5/8 (±1/32) inch. If the front edge tape needs to be pieced together, then the 5/8 inch edges shall be sewn together using a LSa-1 seam, a 304 stitch at 12 - 16 stitches per inch, and a 70/2 thread conforming to A-A-50199. All sewn edges shall be within the fusible dot area so that the adhesive will not exhibit any breaks of blank areas on either side of the joining seam.

3.4.12 Buttons.

3.4.12.1 Front buttons. The buttons for the front shall be 36 ligne, short shank back, conforming to Type I, Style 1, Class B of MIL-B-3461.

3.4.12.2 Stay button. The stay buttons shall conform to Type II, Class 1, Style 15, four (4) hole) of A-A-59994 18 ligne, and shall be black.

3.4.12.3 Epaulet buttons. The buttons for the Class 1 coat shoulder epaulets shall be 25 ligne, short shank back, conforming to Type I, Style 1, Class B of MIL-B-3461.

3.4.13 Braid.

3.4.13.1 Hanger braid. The braid for coat hanger shall be cotton tubular braid, flat, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, conforming to Type IX, Class 1 of MIL-DTL-371, and the color shall be black.

3.4.13.2 Sleeve braid. The Type I coats will have sleeve braid conforming to Type I, Class 3 of A-A-55187 and shall be Air Force Shade Blue 1095.

3.4.14 Thread.

3.4.14.1 Thread, polyester core; cotton- or polyester-covered. The cotton- or polyester-covered polyester core thread shall conform to A-A-50199. The color of the threads shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Blue 1620.

Operation Tex Ply Seaming and stitching of coat 31-35

36-45 2 ply 2 ply

Blindstitching 31-35 2 ply Button sewing 61-70 2 or 3 ply

3.4.14.1.1 Thread, automatic button sewing. An automatic machine which sews and sets the stay button with the buttons in one operation shall be used. The thread shall be polyester core, cotton-covered or polyester-covered, Tex 61-70, 2 or 3 ply, conforming to A-A-50199, and have a minimum breaking strength of 4.5 pounds and a minimum length per unit weight of 6501 yards per pound.

3.4.14.2 Thread, nylon. The nylon thread used for stitching of the buttonholes and bartacks shall conform to Type I, Size B, Class A of A-A-59826, and the color shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Blue 1620.

3.4.14.3 Thread, basting. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade, bleached or unbleached cotton, conforming to Type I or Type II of A-A-52094. As an alternative, polyester thread conforming to Type I, Class 1, Tex 24 of A-A-59963 may be used.

3.4.14.4 Thread, color. The color of the polyester core or nylon threads shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Blue 1620, and the thread for tacking the armholes and attaching sleeve-head and pads shall be white or unbleached.

3.4.14.5 Thread, colorfastness. All dyed thread shall show a rating of 4 for colorfastness to light and dry-cleaning when evaluated using AATCC EP 1 and AATCC EP 2.

3.4.14.6 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, Tex 210, Type I or Type II, conforming to A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be a good match to the basic cloth. The dyed gimp shall show a colorfastness to dry-cleaning rating of 3 or better according to the AATCC EP 1 and AATCC EP 2 when tested as specified in Table VI.

3.4.15 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination size-identification label, a size label and an instruction label. All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075 and contracting agency requirements. All labels shall show a colorfastness to dry-cleaning rating of 3 according to the AATCC EP 1 and AATCC EP 2.

3.4.15.1 Combination size and identification label. The combination label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Classes 1 and 2 combined.

3.4.15.2 Instruction label. The instruction label for the coat shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class

3. The letters for the caption shall be not less than 3/16 inch in height and all other lettering shall be not less than 1/8 inch in height. The contents of the label shall be as follows:

3.4.15.3 Size label. The size label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 2.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, notches, and placement of pockets for the proper assembling of the parts of the men’s coat will be furnished by the procuring activity (see 6.2). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns.

The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements. The patterns provide seam allowances as follows:

3/16 inch For lapel and front edge seams (edge cut) 5/16 inch For darts 3/8 inch For all other seams and lining seams, unless otherwise indicated 3/8 inch For shoulder epaulets (Type I) 5/8 inch For side and back center seams 2-1/4 inch For the coat sleeve bottom turn up 1-3/4 inch For the lining sleeve bottom turn up 1-1/4 inch For bottom hem turn-up 2-1/4 inch For lining bottom hem turn-up

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the coat shall be cut from the material as specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table II.

COAT, MEN’S, SERVICE

1. Dry clean only, low moisture.

2. Remove wrinkles or gloss with a steam iron or with a hot iron using a damp press cloth.

3. Roll press sleeves and lapels.

4. Utility press only.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Back left L_L_BACK 1

Top sleeve L_TOP_SLV 2

Under sleeve L_UND_SLV 2

Breast pocket piping (inside coat)

L_BPKPIPNG 4

Pocketing Cloth (see 3.4.4) Inside breast pocket SIL_INBPKT 2

Pocket stay PKTSTAY N/A

Fronts fusible interlining (see 3.4.3.2) Front

FRONT_FUS

Small parts fusible interlining (see 3.4.3.1)

Left facing FUS_L_FAC 1

Right facing FUS_R_FAC 1

Lapel FUS_LAP_R 2

Back vent FUS_VENT 2

Top collar FUS_TCOLBLK 1

Lower flap (block) FUS_LFLPBLK 2

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names

Cut Parts

Basic material (see 3.4.1) Front OS_FRONT 2

Side body OS_SDE_BODY 2

Back OS_BACK 2

Top sleeve OS_TOP_SLV 2

Under sleeve OS_UND_SLV 2

Front facing OS_FRT_FAC 2

Top collar (block) OS_T_COLBLK 1

Breast pocket welt (block) OS_T_WLTBLK 1

Lower flap (block) OS_LFLPBLK 2

Breast pocket facing OS_B_WT_FAC 2

Lower pocket piping OS_PK_PIPNG 4

Shoulder epaulet (Type I) OS_EPAULET 2

Lining (see 3.4.2) Front L_FRONT 2

Side body L_SDE_BODY 2

Back right L_R_BACK 1

TABLE II. List of pattern parts – Continued.

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names

Cut Parts

Small parts fusible interlining (see 3.4.3.1) – Continued

Epaulet FUS_EPAULET 2

Breast Pocket Welt FUS_BWLTBLK 1

Top sleeve FUS_TOP_SLV 2

Under sleeve FUS_UND_SLV 2

Side Body FUS_SDE_BDY 2

Floating chest piece – Interlining (see 3.4.6)

Chest piece CHS_PC_HYMO 2 Shoulder reinforcement piece

SH_REIN_PC 2

Shoulder piece SHLD_PIECE 2

Floating chest piece – Felt or needle punched polyester (see 3.4.6)

Chest padding CHS_PC_FELT 2

Undercollar material (see 3.4.5) Undercollar (block) UN_CBLK_FEL 1

Dies Top collar die DIE_TPCOL 1

Under collar die DIE_UNCOL 1

Breast welt die DIE_BR_WELT 1

Lower flap die DIE_L_FLAP 1

Side body die – size 40-50 DIE_40-50 1

Side body die – size 32-38 DIE_32-38 1

Lower lapel die DIE_LWR_LAPL 1

Upper lapel die DIE_UPLAPL 1

Shapers Breast welt marker BR_WELT_MKR 1

Finished lapel shaper FIN_LAP_SHP 1

Buttonhole marker BTN_MARKR 1

3.6 Construction. The coat shall be constructed as specified in Table III; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. The stitches per inch specified in Table III shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch.

Additional basting and holding stitching, to facilitate the manufacture of the coat, will be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed, or shall not show on the finished coat.

3.6.1 Stitches and seams. Seaming shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching.

Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the coat. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.6.1.1 Type 301 and 306 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped no less than three (3) stitches. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock stitch shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.6.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area; continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.6.1.2 Type 401, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished coat. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.6.1.1.1 a and b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch type 301.

3.6.1.3 Type 101 and 103 stitching. Tension of 101 stitch tacking shall be adjusted and maintained so there will be no loose stitching resulting in either loose underneath or top threads, or excessively tight stitching, puckering outward appearance of the coat. The underneath loop shall be on the inside of the coat, unless otherwise specified in the table of operations (see Table III).

3.6.1.3.1 Repairs of type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack or blind stitching in same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blind stitching. When repairing blind stitching, superimpose stitching 1/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.6.2 Bartacks. Bartacks shall measure 3/16 inch long and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.3 Vent and chest welt stitching. All vent and chest welt stitching shall be done with either polyester core:

cotton, or polyester-covered or nylon thread as specified in Table III, however, only one type of thread shall be used in the vent and chest welt stitching of any one coat.

3.6.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be the eyelet end, square bar, cut first type, reinforced with gimp.

The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. The ends of the gimp shall be pulled through to the underside. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be tacked by machine, the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching in the gimp. The finished size of the buttonhole cut is specified in Table III.

3.6.5 Appearance of seams. Puckered seams shall be examined at a distance of three (3) feet in comparison with AATCC 88B. Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of

4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam. The test method for the appearance of seams shall be as specified in Table III.

3.6.5 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table III, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a Government furnished template is forwarded, the component shall conform to that template.

3.7 Figures. Figures 1, 2, and 3 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.8 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the coat. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil will be acceptable provided the numbers do not show through the outside of each coat and the numbers are covered by the seam allowance.

3.9 Pressing. Pressing specified in Table III shall be performed by use of a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for dress coats.

3.10 Manufacturing operation requirements. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table III. The Contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations. Any additional basting or holding stitches required to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished garments, except basting or holding stitches on the labels or pre-hemmed pockets. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table III, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or loose.

3.11 Abbreviations in Table of Operations. The abbreviations used in Table III are as follows:

Brtck - Bartack Comrcl - Commercial Blindstch - Blindstitch Btn - Button Btnhl - Buttonhole Incl - Including

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements.

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

1. Cut basic material.

a. Spread the material, without tension, in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric. The cut parts in the top ply and in the bottom ply shall match the patterns.

b. Lay the material in uniform widths and lengths. The plies shall not be stretched, pulled not full, and one side of the lay shall be even.

c. Cut coat parts in strict accordance with patterns which show directional lines, size, shape, placement of pockets, flaps, welt pocket, and notches for proper assembling of all parts. Use of drill holes for pocket dart and flap locations are prohibited.

d. Cut all parts of the garment out of one

(1) piece of material. Cut front darts as indicated on pattern. Cut piping pieces in the warp direction.

e. The left front and front facing shall be trimmed in the front shaping operation

2. Cut lining.

a. Cut lining for body of coat, sleeves, back, and inside breast pocket facings in the direction of the warp, and in strict accordance with patterns furnished.

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

2. Cut lining – Continued.

b. When sleeve linings are cut from ends, the parts shall approximately match the shade of the body lining and the sleeves shall match each other.

3. Cut trimmings.

a. Cut fusible interlinings in the same direction as parts to be fused.

b. Cut pocketing cloth for inside breast pockets in the direction of the warp.

NOTE: If using dies, felt fabric composite undercollar cloth shall be die-cut as indicated by directional lines on the patterns

4. Replacement of damaged parts.

a. Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages, as classified in MIL-STD-1490 are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

b. Exclude and replace any cut parts of the fusible interlining if it exhibits any of the following conditions: color change, bleed through, or bubbling.

c. Exclude and replace any part of the coat that is damaged by a needle chew, a cut, a tear, a hole, a burn, or an exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished coat.

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

5. Shade markings.

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings, whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from ends need not be shade marked. Any method may be used except as indicated in 3.8.

b. Identify test swatches (basic material and fusible interlining) that represent every 1000 coat units of production (see 4.6.2).

6. Fusing (see 3.4.3 through 3.4.3.5).

a. Fuse side body front armhole interlining to the side body piece with the armhole edge set back 1/8 inch and the front edge set back 3/8 inch from cut edges.

b. Fuse back vent interlining with the interlining edges set back 1/8 inch from the raw edge of back vent and hem.

c. Fuse small parts fusible interlining piece to top and undersleeve with the bottom edge of the fusible interlining 1/2 inch from the bottom edge of sleeves and extend 1 inch past fold of sleeve hem.

d. Fuse small parts fusible to the top collar. Position top collar interlining centered on the top collar with 3/16 inch from all edges as indicated on pattern.

e. Fuse small parts fusible to the flap, epaulet (Type I), and top welt interlining and top welt aligned with corresponding notches on basic material.

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

6. Fusing (see 3.4.3 through 3.4.3.5) – Continued.

f. Fuse small parts fusible to the left and right facings with the top of the fusible interlining 1/8 inch from the top of the shell.

g. Fuse small parts and fronts fusible test swatches.

NOTE: Fused lots and test swatches shall be allowed to cool to the touch prior to bundle tying or testing. Sandwich fusing may be used on the top collar, pocket welts and pocket flaps (small parts).

7. Attach armhole tape to front and back panels.

a. On front panel, sew 1/4 inch crosscut tape from second notch up to 1/2 inch from shoulder seam approximately 1/8 inch from edge along armhole seam allowance.

301 or

SSaa-1 SSaa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

b. On front panel, sew 1/4 inch tape from side seam to second notch approximately 1/8 inch from edge along armhole seam allowance.

301 or

SSaa-1 SSaa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

c. On back panel, sew 1/2 inch crosscut tape from back notch up to 1/2 inch from shoulder seam approximately 1/8 inch from edge along armhole seam allowance

301 or

SSaa-1 SSaa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

d. On back panel, sew 1/4 inch tape from side seam to back notch approximately 1/8 inch from edge along armhole seam

301 or

SSaa-1 SSaa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

8. Make darts and join side bodies to fronts.

Finished appearance: The fronts/side bodies shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats.

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

8. Make darts and join side bodies to fronts –

a. Seam the vertical cut dart of fronts with 5/16 inch seam allowance.

301 SSa-1 10 to 12 50 50

b. Join side bodies to fronts matching notches with a 3/8 inch seam. Press seam open and flat.

301 SSa-1 10 to 12 50 50

c. Press dart seams and side body seams open and flat holding front waist dart short and front of coat straight.

NOTE: The dart is not cut open all the way to the top; approximately one (1) inch is left closed.

9. Make chest welt, lower pocket flaps.

Finished appearance: The chest welt and pocket flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished size chart (see Table V). The seamed edges and corners of the flaps shall be well worked out and seams shall not be visible on the outside of the flaps.

a. Seam flap front and back edges with 3/16 inch to 1/4 inch edge cut. It is not necessary to notch.

301 SSa-1 10 to 12 50 50

b. Turn and work out edges, points, and corners. The seams shall not show on the outside of flaps.

c. Make top welt on an automatic cam driven or programmable machine, or stitch and turn welt before attaching.

301 SSa-1 10 to 12 50 50

d. Press chest pocket welt and lower pocket flaps smooth and flat.

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

10. Make epaulets (Type I).

a. Fold each shoulder epaulet and stitch the raw edges of the side. Spread the seam off center and stitch the point of the shoulder loop.

301 or

SSa-1 10 to 12 50 50

b. Press the shoulder loop seam open and flat.

c. Turn the epaulet with the seam on the underside and off center, clear of the buttonhole position.

d. Press the shoulder epaulets smooth and flat.

e. Make a cut-first, machine buttonhole in the center of each shoulder epaulet, with the eye placed so that the edge of the button will be 1/4 (+1/4, –1/8) inch from the collar edge when the coat is finished and pressed. The buttonhole shall be eyelet-end, square-bar type, worked over gimp to fit a 25 ligne button. Pull the gimp through the underside of the buttonhole.

Btnhl 52 per btnhl not incl tacks

B nylon B nylon

f. Bartack the buttonhole by machine.

The bartack shall be a separate operation from the buttonhole making.

Brtck 21 per tack

B nylon B nylon

11. Make collar.

Finished appearance: The collar shall be uniform in appearance and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twisting, gathers, puckers, or raw edges (top and sides). The composite undercollar shall be one (1) piece.

a. Sew stitchline on undercollar at breakline, using guide notches on undercollar; collar stand shall be 1-1/4 (±1/8) inches at center.

301 SSa-1 10 to 12 50 50

b. Machine fell top of top collar to finished undercollar with simulated hand felling.

Machine fell 6 to 10 50 70

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

11. Make collar – Continued.

c. Sew edges to undercollar. 301 SSa-1 10 to 14 50 70

d. Trim and turn collar.

e. Press collar flat.

f. Trim bottom (neck) edge of top collar even with undercollar from gorge edge to breakline notch and tapering out to 1/4 inch seam allowance at center back notch.

12. Make sleeves.

Finished appearance: The sleeves shall be uniform in width. The seams shall be pressed smooth and flat and shall be without gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges.

a. Join top sleeve to under sleeve at forearm seam of sleeve, distributing fullness between notches

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

b. Press forearm seam open and flat. Do not hold taut

c. Lightly press turn-up bottom of sleeve as indicated by notches on pattern

d. Join under sleeve to top sleeve at back arm.

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

e. Press back arm seam open and flat.

f. Baste turn-up of sleeves.

As an alternative the sleeve may be blind tacked at the forearm and backarm seams.

NOTE: The sleeves are not hemmed.

101 or 103 or

SSn-1 SSn-1 SSn-1

2 - 4 2 - 4 2 - 4

Comrcl Comrcl

g. Join back arm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining. The distance between the notches on the forearm seam shall be left open.

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10 - 12 10 - 12

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

12. Make sleeves. (continued)

h. Using a sleeve lining felling machine, position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of forearm sleeve seam and top of the back arm sleeve hem. Tack forearm seam and back arm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and back arm seam, respectively. The back arm seam tacking shall extend from approximately the midpoint of the back arm seam to not more than seven (7) inches above unfinished bottom edge and tacked at the forearm and backarm seams. The forearm seam tacking shall be 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

401 SSa-1 8-10 50 70

i. Pull sleeve through lining and baste turn-up of sleeve lining. Sleeve lining shall have not less than 1-1/4 inches turn-up.

101 2 - 4 Comrcl

j. Turn sleeves and assemble in pairs.

NOTE: Sleeve may be rolled pressed prior to hanging to facilitate check on balance of sleeve during sleeve setting operation.

13. Make front linings.

Finished appearance: The lining shall finish without pleats or puckers. The pockets shall be positioned as indicated on patterns and shall be of correct size.

a. Join lining side body fronts to lining fronts.

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

b. Seam front lining to facings easing fullness on the lining to allow facing to lie smooth and flat and match notches provided.

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

14. Make two (2) inside chest pockets and attach combination size-identification and instruction label.

a. Pocket openings shall be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine, which turns, stitches, pipes, and edges in one (1) operation.

The lining for the piping may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine. The joining seam of the top and bottom piped edges shall be raise stitched through lining and coat facing prior to pocket closing, and top edge stitched through all plies. (If lock stitch type machine is used, the top edge stitch may be omitted.) Tack ends of pocket opening.

101 and

10 to 12 10 to 12

NOTE: When double piped pocket machine is used, the Contractor may utilize the machine manufacturer's recommended piping reinforcement material in addition to the pocketing cloth.

The finished pocket opening shall measure 5-1/4 (+1/8) inches and the finished pocket depth shall measure 5-1/2 (+1/8) inches.

b. Center the combination size and identification label on the left (right?)

breast pocket 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the piped edge on the pocket lining.

Topstitch the combination size and identification label 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge of label on all four (4) sides.

301 or

SSau-1 SSau-1

10 to 12

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

14. Make two (2) inside chest pockets and attach combination size-identification and instruction label – Continued.

c. Seam instruction label to the right breast pocket 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge of label on all four (4) sides, to the lining through one (1) ply pocketing cloth, positioned with top edge 1/8 to 1/4 inch below joining seam of lower inside pocket piping at center of pocket opening.

301 or

SSau-1 SSau-1

10 to 12 10 to 12

d. Sew one (1) ply of pocketing approximately five (5) inches down from top along seam that joins facing and lining seam.

301 SSa-1 10 - 12 50 50

e. Turn pockets into position and stitch sides and bottom edge of the pocket catching the pocket stay at front edge of pocket from top for the length of the stay. The finished pockets shall measure not less than 5-1/2 inches (+1/4, -0) in depth for all sizes.

301 SSa-1 10 - 12 50 50

15. Make backs and back lining and attach size labels.

Finished appearance: The backs shall be joined without gathers or puckers. The right vent and left vent shall finish smooth and flat without puckers or , gathers.

a. Join center back with a 5/8 inch seam with stitching stopping approximately 3/8 inch below step and continue horizontally across vent step to 1/2 inch before edge.

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10 - 12 10 - 12

b. Slash right seam allowance at top of vent and press back seam open. Fold back left vent in line with center seam and bottom notch, and press left vent.

c. Position 1/2 inch crosscut tape 1/8 inch from neckline edge of joined backs and stitch along tape.

301 SSa-1 10 - 12 50 50

Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

15. Make backs and back lining and attach size labels – Continued.

d. Join center back lining beginning at top notch, sew down approximately 1 inch, sew across to within 3/8 inch of edge, turn and continue down back lining stopping at the vent notch.

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10 - 12 10 - 12

e. Sew vent.

(1) With vent notches of shell and lining even, sew down length of vent (starting at top of vent), turning up lining at first notch and bottom turn-up at second notch, and then continue sewing to bottom.

301 SSd-1 10 - 12 50 50

(2) Turn the vent edge and edge stitch with lining not showing on outside of coat.

301 SSe-1 10 - 12 50 50

(3) Starting at lining seam at top of vent, sew right side of vent lining down the full length of the shell fabric.

301 SSe-1 10 - 12 50 50

(4) Tack the top of the vent though all plies of material, except the lining.

The outside tack shall be diagonal and start at the base of, and on the center seam, and shall not be less than 1 inch or more than 1-1/4 inches long.

301 SSa-1 10 - 12 50 50

f. Sew on hanger braid and size label to center of back at collar seam with the stitching through all plies. Label shall be plainly visible. Hanger braid shall measure finished 2 (± 1/2) inches long.

301 SSa-1 10 - 12 50 50

TABLE III. Manufacturing operation requirements-Continued.

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

16. Make fronts.

Finished appearance: All darts and flaps shall be positioned and finished without pleats or gathers.

a. Mark fronts for position of chest welt and lower flaps as indicated by pattern.

b. Mark width of welt from fold line in accordance with finished measurements.

c. Stitch welt to front through all plies, as indicated by marks on pattern, catching pocket stay on the underside.

301 SSa-1 10 - 12 50 50

As an alternative, the top ply of the welt may be stitched to the front.

NOTE: When the alternative method is used the seam allowance of top ply of welt shall be turned up and stitched on the underside adjacent to the welt setting seam. Stitch through under ply of welt simultaneously catching the pre-stitched stay. In the finished coat the welt setting seam shall be spread open.

d. The ends of welt seam allowance may be clipped.

e. Stitch pocket facing to front with stitching approximately 1/2 inch from the seam joining top ply of welt to front.

301 SSe-1 10 - 12 50 50

f. Cut opening of pocket between the two (2) rows of stitching and tongue notch ends.

g. Turn welt and stitch corners 1/16 inch from edge along edges and 1/4 inch across top from corners. Stitch inside across bottom of welt to render inoperable. The finished length of the top welt shall be as cited in Table V.

301 SSe-1 10 - 12 50 50

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

17. Make two lower pockets.

Pocket openings shall be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine, which turns, stitches, pipes, and edges in one (1) operation. The finished length of the pocket flap in the welt shall be as specified in Table V.

a. Insert the flap into the welt machine, so that the flap is an integral part of the welt attachment. The top edge of the welt shall be exposed across the top of the flap. Sew on top and through the marked line as indicated on the pattern. Turn down flap over pocket opening and sew facing at all four (4) sides to close pocket and render inoperable.

NOTE: If single thread chain stitch machine is used, a single needle lock stitch is required to reinforce the piping before closing pocket.

101 and

10 – 12 10 - 12

b. Trim the ends of the piping and pocketing cloth on the inside if necessary.

18. Baste floating chest piece to fronts.

a. Position floating chest piece as indicated by placement marks on the pattern on the drill holes on front fusible interlining.

b. Baste across shoulder allowing room for setting shoulder pads. Baste around armhole, and down back of chest piece.

101 or 103 or

Hopper, Flatbed, or Jumpbaste

4 to 6 4 to 6 4 to 6

Comrcl

No. Description Of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type

Stitches Per Inch

Thread

Needle Bobbin/ Looper

18. Baste floating chest piece to fronts –

c. Position bridle tape adjacent to and 1/8 inch behind breakline of each lapel. Fuse bridle tape so that the center of bridle tape is placed on the edge of chest piece. Finish the fusing behind the breakline at a point 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the lapel (or front edge of fore part).

OR

Baste the tape for the bridle, holding the tape taut, position tape with fullness evenly distributed.

101 or

Hopper or hand

SSm-2 4 to 6 A nylon A nylon

NOTE: The tape shall be adjacent to but behind the lapel breakline and shall extend from 1-1/2 inches from the shoulder seam to the button placket notch.

d. Blindstitch bridle tape to chest piece and front using one row of stitching along each side along bridle tape.

103 or

Blindstch Blindstch

4 to 6 4 to 6

19. Under press lapels and fronts, and shape lapels.

a. After the bridle tapes are fused, the left and right fronts of coat shall be pressed individually, on left and right coat chest pressing machine respectively, to conform to the shape of the body. The front edge of forepart shall be straight.

b. Shape the lapels and fronts of coat.

c. Shaping of lapels, fronts, and trimming of front edge…