Army Coat MDW Mens FINAL DOCUMENT GL-PD-15-02A Coat Mens Wool Elastique TOG 21 May 2020 TIME-1230.pdf

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DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH POUND

GL-PD-15-02A

21 May 2020

SUPRERSEDING

GL-PD-15-02

21 December 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, MEN’S, WOOL (ELASTIQUE)

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for men’s wool elastique dress coat worn by male and female personnel of the Department of the Army, Military District of Washington (MDW), The Old Guard (TOG).

1.2 Classification. The dress coat will be of the following types, sizes, and lengths.

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - With lining Type II - Limited lining

1.2.2 Sizes. The sizes and lengths of coat will be in the following:

Schedule of sizes and lengths.

SIZE XXS XS S R L XL XXL XXXL

30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC), Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760- 5019. ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

Schedule of sizes and lengths. - Continued

38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 41 41 41 41 41 41 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 43 43 43 43 43 43 43 43 43 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 46 46 46 46 46 46 46 46 46 47 47 47 47 47 47 47 47 47 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 52 52 52 52 52 52 52 52 52 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 53 54 54 54 54 54 54 54 54 54

NOTE: Sizes above are abbreviated as the following XXS=XX-Short, XS=X-Short, S=Short, R=Regular, L=Long, XL=X-Long, XXL=XX-Long, XXXL=XXX-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-DTL-3738 - Cloth, Elastique, Wool MIL-B-13466 - Braid, Textile and Lace, Vellum, Woven, Textile (for Blue Uniform) MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE HANDBOOKS

MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men’s, Dress

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC TM8 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc

AATCC TM132 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning

(Copies are available for purchase online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1388 - Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available for purchase online at http://www.astm.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure – Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor).

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted here or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/ possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The coat shall be a single breasted style with peak lapels, front darts, and a two (2) piece back with vent. The coat shall have a four (4) button front closure, two (2) top pleated patch pockets with pocket flaps, two (2) lower pocket flaps, and button down shoulder loops with cord edge trim. The Type I coat shall have two (2) lower besom pockets and shall be 3/8 lined with fully lined sleeves and two (2) inside horizontal breast pockets. The Type II coat shall have lining for pocket flap and back vent only. The sleeves shall be left unhemmed for alteration purposes.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a 16 ounce 100% wool elastique cloth conforming to Type III of MIL-DTL-3738. The color shall match Army Blue 150.

3.4.2 Lining. The material for the lining shall be a polyester twill cloth conforming to Class 3 of A-A-52106.

3.4.3 Binding. The binding for the coat shall be cut on the bias and shall be of the same material used for the coat lining (see 3.4.2). The width of the bias binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8-inch.

The binding may be placed on rolls.

3.4.4.1 Small parts fusible interlining. The small parts (lapels, left and right front facing, breast and lower pocket flaps, bottom top sleeve, bottom under sleeve, top collar, lapel peak reinforcement, and shoulder loops) shall use a black or charcoal nonwoven fusible interlining conforming to Type V or VI, Class 1, Style A or B, or Type VIII, Class 1, Style A of MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4.2 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat fronts and side body fronts shall be a weft inserted knit material conforming to Type III, Class 1, Style C of MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4.3 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.5.1, and a minimum of 24 ounces or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three (3) dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.5.1.

3.4.4.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show colorfastness to dry-cleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4.5 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in 4.5.2. Additionally, the interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as specified in

4.5.3. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.4.5 Pocketing material. The material for the lower pockets, armholes stays, shoulder stays, pocket stays and for the Type I coat’s inside breast pocket shall be polyester and cotton cloth conforming to Class 2 of A-A-52106 except that the nonfibrous material content and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The shade of the pocketing material shall be a good match to the basic material (see 3.4.1) or shall be black.

3.4.6 Undercollar material. The undercollar material shall be a wool blend felt fabric conforming to MIL-C-29137, or a 100 percent polyester needle-punched nonwoven material weighing between 8.0 to 10.0 ounces per square yard (oz./sq.yd.) with a thickness between 0.070 to 0.095-inch at 0.6 psi (pounds per square inch), and exhibiting a cross-machine direction stiffness of

0.050 load pounds (minimum) when tested as specified in Table X. The color shall be black.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Chest piece. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to Type XVIII of

MIL-C-15065.

3.5.2 Hanger loop braid. The braid for the hanger loop shall be a cotton tubular braid, flat, 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide, conforming to Type III, Class 1 of MIL-DTL-371. The color shall be black and the finished braid shall meet the colorfastness requirements as specified in MIL-DTL-371.

3.5.3 Cord edge braid. The braid for edging the shoulder loops shall be a nylon cord edge braid, 3/32-inch wide conforming to Type I, Class 2 of MIL-B-13466. The braid shall match shade standard of Goldenlite.

3.5.4 Sleeve ornamentation braid. The sleeve ornamentation braid shall be a nylon 1/8-inch wide soutache braid, conforming to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-B-13466. The braid shall match the shade standard of Goldenlite.

3.5.5 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-DTL-15064.

As an alternate, the shoulder pad shall conform to the following requirements: The shoulder pads shall have a top and bottom cover of 4-ounces, white, needle punched polyester felt in accordance with Table X. The filler shall be cotton, one-piece shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. Multiple pieces are not acceptable. The top cover shall be notched 4-1/4-inches from the front of the pad. The shoulder pads shall be sewn in a concave shoulder fitting form utilizing multilane of basting, totaling six (6) rows. The pad shall have a compressed finished thickness measuring 1/2 (±1/8) inch using a 1-inch foot at 0.1 psi. The finished pad shall measure 9-3/4 to 10-3/4-inches in length, and 5-3/8 to 5-5/8 inches in width, with a 1/2-inch armhole cutout on each side. The shoulder pads shall not be significantly altered in thickness, shape, or dimension after being commercially dry cleaned three (3) times with an environmentally acceptable solution. The shoulder pads shall have a minimum breaking strength of 6.0 pounds in the machine direction and a minimum of 3.0 pounds in the cross direction when tested in accordance with Table X (see 4.2).

3.5.6 Sleeve-head. The sleeve-head shall conform to Type IV of MIL-DTL-15064, except that the length shall be 16 to 16-1/2-inches for sizes 36-48 and 18 to 18-1/2-inches for sizes 50 and above. As an alternate, a continuous (on a roll), cut to required length sleeve-head may be used.

3.5.7 Stay tapes.

3.5.7.1 Binding stay tape. The stay tapes for the bridle at the breakline of the coat and for staying the armhole shall be preshrunk cotton conforming to Type I, Class 1 or 2 of A-A-52071, except that the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. The tapes shall be in the widths and colors specified by location below:

Location Width Color Staying armholes 1/4-inch Dyed Black

Bridle at breakline 5/8-inch Dyed Black

3.5.7.2 Edge stay tape. The stay tapes for the coat front edge shall be 1/2-inch cross-cut natural or black polyester and cotton cloth conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106, except that the nonfibrous material content shall not apply. The raw edges of the coat front edge tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. As an alternate, a fusible tape, as specified in 3.5.7.2.1 may be used.

3.5.7.2.1 Alternate fusible edge stay tape. The alternate fusible edge tape for front edges shall be Type 1, Style B, Class 1, dyed black or charcoal, conforming to MIL-C-44296, except it shall be cut in the filling (cross cut) direction at a width of 5/8 (± 1/32) inch. The tapes may be seamed together to form a continuous tape for the edging of the coat front.

3.5.8 Threads.

3.5.8.1 Polyester core, thread. The polyester cord thread shall be cotton or polyester covered conforming to A-A-50199. The colors shall be as specified in 3.5.8.4. The thread sizes and manufacturing uses are listed in Table I.

TABLE I. Polyester core, cotton - or polyester covered thread, Manufacturing Uses Tex Size Ply Seaming and stitching of coat and for basting 61-70

36-45 31-35

2 or 3

Blindstitching, overedging, and machine felling 31-35 2 Button sewing, hand 61-70 2 or 3 Button sewing, machine (except automatic sew and shank type, see 3.5.8.4)

61-70

2 or 3

Sleeve braid soutache 36-45 2 or 3 Tacking armhole and attaching sleeve-heads 61-70 2 or 3

3.5.8.2 Thread, nylon. The nylon thread shall conform to A-A-59826 in the types, sizes and manufacturing uses as listed in Table II. The colors shall be as specified in 3.5.8.4 (see 6.5).

TABLE II. Nylon thread.

Manufacturing Uses Thread Type Tex Size Class Button sewing, machine I, II, or III 350 A Hand or machine-type felling and for basting

IV 35

A

Making buttonholes and bartacks V 135 A Machine stitching VI 24

A

Automatic button sewing Type III 135 A

3.5.8.3 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, soft finish or glazed finish, Size 8 (Tex 210), conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198. The color shall be as specified in 3.5.8.4.

3.5.8.4 Color. The color of the polyester-core, nylon threads, and gimp shall match the standard sample for Black AA (Cable number. 66043), (see 2.3), except the thread for stitching the soutache braid to the sleeve shall match the standard shade of Goldenlite. The thread for tacking the armholes and attaching the sleeve-head and should pads shall be white. The colorfastness of all threads shall meet the colorfastness requirements as specified in 3.5.11.

3.5.9 Buttons.

3.5.9.1 Hopper back. The buttons for the coat front shall be 36-ligne, hopper back and for the pockets and shoulder loops shall be a 25-ligne, hopper back, conforming to Type I, Style 2, 22K Gold plating Class A of MIL-B-3461.

3.5.9.2 Toggles. Split pin or ring-type toggles shall be for fastening buttons to the breast pocket, pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps and shall conform to MIL-B-3461.

3.5.10 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification and instruction label, a size label, a barcode label/tag and a cardboard instruction folder.

3.5.10.1 Combination identification and instruction label. The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. As an alternate to the material specified in MIL-DTL-32075, the label material may be a 100% polyester coated tape conforming to Avery Dennison's Style # 4800WT or Style # 4822WT (see 6.8). The letters for the caption shall be not less than 3/16-inch in height, and all other lettering shall be no less than 1/8-inch in height. The labels shall meet the colorfastness requirements as specified in 3.5.11. The label shall be sewn down on all four (4) sides shall not cover the printing. Type I label placement shall be located on the inside right Type II label placement shall be located on the inside right facing 4-inches up from the bottom of the hem. The printed label shall be facing the body when worn. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, lot number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content and the following laundering instructions:

COAT, MEN’S, WOOL, ELASTIQUE

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY.

2. Use a damp cloth for outside pressing.

3. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be 325o (± 5)° F on wool setting with steam.

4. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.5.10.2 Size labels. Each coat shall have a white, nonwoven acrylic coated, commercial type size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall indicate size and National Stock Number (NSN) as follows:

SIZE: 44XL (EXAMPLE)

NSN: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE)

3.5.10.3 Bar code label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSN’s by the Government. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.5.10.4 Instruction folder. The printed cardboard instruction folder, of a commercial type, shall be 4 (± 1/4) inches by 6 (±1/4) inches. The cardboard folder shall have two (2) 1/4-inch diameter holes positioned in accordance with Figure 1 and shall have a 12-inch length of string looped through the holes. The text of the instruction folder shall be as shown on Figure 1. The letters for the instructions shall be not less than 1/8-inch in height.

THIS SECTION IS INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

FIGURE 1. Instruction folder.

3.5.11 Colorfastness of components. The colorfastness of the components as specified shall meet the requirements of Table III when tested in accordance with Table X.

TABLE III. Colorfastness requirements of components as specified.

Component Colors Evaluation

Light (40 AFU or 170 J/(m2nm) @ 420 nm) (min.) 1/

Perspiration (acid & alkaline) Color Change and Staining) (min.)

Drycleaning (min.)

Crocking Wet/Dry (min.)

Hanger loop (3.5.2) N/A N/A N/A 3.5 Thread (3.5.8 ) 3-4 3-4 3-4 N/A Gimp (3.5.8) N/A N/A 3-4 N/A Labels (3.5.10) N/A N/A 3-4 N/A

1/ AATCC Fading Units (AFU)

3.6 Figures. Figures 1 thru 5 are furnished solely for guidance and information. Should variations from the written specification appear in the figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.7 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for using during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this specification or governed by the pattern. Unless otherwise specified in Table VII the standard patterns provide the following seam allowances as specified in Table IV.

TABLE IV. Seam allowances.

Allowance (inches)

Location

1/4 - Set front facing to front, set back vent, and make pocket flaps 3/16 - Turn in for top of back vent and making shoulder loops 5/16 - For darts, setting arm shield, set loops 3/8 - For armhole seams, shoulder seams, setting sleeves, making pockets, set pocket flaps, make sleeves, set collar, join side body to front, join front facing to front lining, join front lining to side body lining and for all other seams and lining seams, unless otherwise indicated

1/2 - For the back lining bottom hem 5/8 - Join backs and join side body to back 5-1/4 - For the coat sleeve bottom:3-inch for fittings +2-1/4 inch for turn up 4-1/2 - For the lining sleeve bottom:3-inch for fittings +1-1/2 inch for turn up

1-1/4 - For the coat bottom hem turn up and the vent lining hem 1-1/2 - For the front lining and side body lining bottom hem

3.7.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the coat shall be cut from materials, as specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table V:

TABLE V. Pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts Basic material (see 3.4.1)

Front 15_02-FRONT 2 Side body front 15_02-SD-BD-FRT 2 Back

15_02-BACK 2

Right front facing 15_02-RT-FRT-FAC 1 Left front facing 15_02-LFT-FRT-FAC 1 Top collar 15_02-TOP-COLLAR 1 Top sleeve 15_02-TOP-SLEEVE 2 Under sleeve 15_02-UND-SLEEVE 2 Shoulder loop 15_02-SHLD-LOOP 4 Breast patch pocket 15_02-BRS-PTC-PKT 2 Breast pocket flap 15_02-BRS-PKT-FLP 2 Lower pocket flap 15_02-LWR-PKT-FLP 2 Lower pocket cord 15_02-LWR-PKT-CRD 2 Lower pocket top-bottom piping 15_02-L-PK-T-B-PP 4 Armhole shield 15_02-ARMHL-SHLD 2

Lining (3.4.2)

Front lining (Type I) 15_02-FRT-LINING 2 Side body front lining (Type I) 15_02-SD-BD-F-LIN 2 Breast pocket flap lining 15_02-BRS-PK-FL-L 2 Lower pocket flap lining 15_02-BRS-PK-FL-L 2 Back yoke (Type I) 15_02-BACK-YOKE 1 Top sleeve lining (Type I) 15_02-TOP-SLV-LIN 2 Under sleeve lining (Type I) 15_02-UND-SLV-LIN 2 Lower pocket facing lining

15_02-L-PKT-FAC-L 2

Inside breast pocket piping

15_02-I-B-P-PP-LN 1

Back vent lining 15_02-BK-VENT-LIN 1

Small parts fusible

Shoulder loop fusible 15_02-SHLD-LP-FUS 4 interlining

Breast pocket fusible 15_02-BRS-PKT-FUS 2 (3.4.4.1) Breast pocket flap fusible 15_02-BR-PK-FL-FS 2 Lower pocket flap fusible 15_02-LWR-PK-F-FS 2 Bottom top sleeve fusible 15_02-BT-T-SL-FUS 2 Bottom under sleeve fusible 15_02-BT-U-SL-FUS 2 Top collar fusible 15_02-TP-COL-FUS 1 Lapel peak reinforcement fusible 15_02-LPK-REIN-F 2 Side Body Front Arm fusible 15_02-S-B-FT-ARH-F 2

TABLE V. Pattern parts. - Continued

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts Fronts Fusible interlining (see 3.4.4.2)

Right front fusible 15_02-RT-FRT-FUS 1 Left front fusible 15_02-LFT-FRT-FUS 1 Right front facing fusible 15_02-RT-FRT-F-FUS 1 Left front facing fusible 15_02-L-FRT-F-FUS 1

Undercollar material (3.4.6)

Undercollar 15_02-UND-COLLAR 1

Pocketing (3.5)

Lower pocket 15_02-LWR-POCKET 2 Inside breast pocket (Type I only) 15_02-INS-BRS-PKT 1 Lower pocket stay 15_02-LWR-PKT-STY 2 Inside breast pocket stay (Type I only)

15_02-I-B-PKT-STY 1

Flap breast pocket stay 15_02-F-BR-PK-STY 2 Chest piece (3.5.1) basic material

Chest piece Shoulder reinforcement

15_02-CP-SHLD-REIN

Chest piece 15_02-CHEST PIECE 2 Shoulder piece 15_02-CP-SHLD-PC 2 Collar interlining 15_02-COL-INT 1

Chest piece felt or needle bunched polyester (3.5.1)

Chest padding 15_02-CP-CHEST PAD 2

Templates Front shaper 15_02-FRT-SHP N/A Left front facing shaper 15_02-LFT-FAC-SHP N/A Lapel shaper (working) 15_02-LPL-SHP-WRK N/A Finished lapel shaper 15_02-FIN-LPL-SHP N/A Undercollar shaper 15_02-U-COL-SHP N/A Top collar marker 15_02-TP-COL-MRK N/A Under collar stand shaper 15_02-U-CSTN-SHP N/A Shoulder loop shaper 15_02-SHLD-LP-SHP N/A Breast patch pocket shaper 15_02-BR-P-PK-SHP N/A Breast pocket flap marker 15_02-B-PK-FLP-MRK N/A Breast patch pocket flap shaper 15_02-B-P-FL-SHP N/A Breast patch pocket pleat shaper 15_02-B-PT-P-PL-SHP N/A Lower pocket flap marker 15_02-L-PKT-FL-MRK N/A Lower pocket flap shaper 15_02-L-PK-FL-SHP N/A Gorge shaper 15_02-GORG-SHP N/A Bottom shaper 15_02-BTM-SHP N/A Bench Marker 15_02-BENCH-MRK N/A

3.8 Construction.

3.8.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. All stitches, seams, and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. The type of seam, stitching, and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table VI.

When two (2) or more methods of seams or stitch types are given for the same operation, any one

(1) of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn, so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/16-inch or more shall be considered a defect.

3.8.1.1 Type 301 and 306 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except label, shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label and hand stitching shall be overlapped not less than three (3) stitches. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or needle thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.8.1.2 Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching. Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.8.1.3 Repairs of type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by super-imposing new tack or blindstitching in the same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blindstitching. When repairing blindstitching, superimpose stitching 1/2-inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.8.1.4 Repairs of type 401, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.8.1.2, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears. Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching type 301.

3.8.1.5 Thread breaks and ends of seams. End of all seams and stitchings (except darts), when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4-inch. The ends of the continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch except on labels, where the overlap shall be not less than three (3) stitches. The ends of the hand felling shall be tacked with not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2-inch. The thread ends of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2-inch.

3.8.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, worked over gimp with the ends of gimp pulled through to underside. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be tacked by hand or machine the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching and the gimp. The finished size of the buttonhole cut opening shall be as specified in Table VI. The pocket flap buttonholes shall only be cut on the eyelet portion of the buttonhole and the gimp shall be caught in the bar. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8-inch of the bartack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric, prior to stitching the buttonholes, is prohibited.

3.8.3 Bartacks. Bartacks shall be 1/4 to 3/8-inch long, and shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.8.4 Marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew on type tickets.

c. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided that the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment, and wherever possible is covered by the seam allowance.

3.9 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table VI. Unless otherwise specified in Table VI, the contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished coat is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table VI. Minor modifications to the patterns are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, appearance, or serviceability requirements cited in this specification.

Any additional basting or holding stitching, to facilitate manufacture, is permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished coat.

3.9.1 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table VI shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for the dress coats. Any additional under-pressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Fusibles shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommended time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.9.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table VI, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified, and the finished components conforms to the required configuration.

3.9.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table VII are as follows:

Brtck Bartack Btn Button Btnhl Buttonhole Comrcl Commercial Dbl Double Poly Polyester-core thread

(see 3.5.8.1) Mchne Machine

Smlr Similar

THIS SECTION IS INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE VI. Manufacturing operations.

No.

Manufacturing Operations Requirements

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

1.

Cut basic material.

a. Spread the basic material without tension in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric. The cut parts from the top and bottom ply shall match and correspond to the pattern.

b. Lay the basic material in uniform lengths and widths. The plies shall not be stretched, pulled or full, and one (1) side of the lay shall be even. Mark each component part in the top of the main lay with the size of the coat.

c. Cut the coat in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show directional lines, size, shape, placement of pockets and pocket flaps, and notches for proper assembly of parts. The use of drill holes for pocket, dart and pocket flap locations is prohibited.

d. Cut all basic material parts of each coat out of the same piece of material, except armhole shields and lower pocket piping pieces (warp directions) which may be cut from ends. When armhole shields are cut from ends, the armhole shields shall match each other. The shoulder loops may be cut in either the warp or filling shoulder loops on a coat shall be cut in the same direction. Cut front darts as indicated on the pattern.

e. The left front shall be dressed in the front shaping operation after the bottoms are shaped as defined in Operation 21.d.

TABLE VI. Manufacturing operations. - Continued

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

2.

3.

Cut lining.

a. For Type I coat cut lining for the, front, back yoke, side body sleeves, yoke lining, vent lining, pocket flaps, and right inside breast pocket facing and for Type II cut lining for pocket flaps and back vent only. Cut all lining pieces in the direction of the warp, and in strict accordance with the patterns furnished. The sleeve linings may be cut from the ends. Cut binding for arm hold shield, edge of top pocket, and bottom hem on a 45o bias, 5/8 to 7/8-inch wide, to desired finished length.

b. When sleeve linings are cut from the ends, the parts shall approximately match the shade of the body lining and the sleeves shall match each other.

Cut trimmings.

a. Cut fusible interlinings in the same direction as the parts to be fused.

b. Cut pocketing and lining cloth for armhole and shoulder stays on the bias. Cut pocketing and lining cloth for inside breast pocket, pocket flap and breast pocket stays, and lower hanging pockets in the direction of the warp.

c. Cut undercollar cloth on the bias.

d. Cut the soutache braid for the sleeve ornamentation 36 (±1/2) inches long.

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

4.

5.

6.

Replacement of damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to ensure that material defects and damages, as classified in MIL-STD-1490, are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

Shade markings.

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings, whether cut from the ends or in the main lay, shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from ends need not be shade marked. Any marking method may be used except as indicated in 3.7.5.

Fusing.

a. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8-hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Under no circumstances shall the dry heat temperature of the fusing press exceed 315oF. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together.

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

6. Fusing. (Continued)

Superimpose the small parts fusible peak reinforcement piece on the fronts fusible interlining and fuse both pieces together to the front as (see Figure 5) Fuse side body front armhole interlining with the armhole edge set back 1/8-inch and 3/8-inch from edge of side body to front joining seam.

b. Fuse small parts fusible interlining piece to top and undersleeve with bottom edge of the fusible interlining 1/8-inch from the bottom edge of sleeves, and centered.

c. Fuse small parts fusible to the top collar. Position top collar interlining centered on the top collar with the interlining center top edge positioned 1-inch from the top collar edge, and as indicated on the pattern.

d. Fuse small parts fusible to the pocket flaps even with the top edge, with the other remaining edges set back 1/16-inch.

e. Fuse small parts fusible to the breast patches with the side and bottom edges of the interlining set back 1/4-inch. NOTE: To be accomplished solely after Operation 10.a. or 10.b.

f. Fuse small parts fusible to the shoulder loops as indicated on the pattern.

g. Fuse small parts fusible to the left and right facings with the top of the fusible interlining even with the top of the shell.

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

7.

Fusing. (Continued)

h. Fuse small parts and fronts fusible test swatches.

i. Fuse a 1-inch wide bias cut small parts fusible strip to each center back neckline. NOTE: Fused lots and test swatches shall be allowed to cool to the touch prior to bundle tying or testing.

Make darts and join side body fronts to fronts

a. Seam the vertical cut darts of the fronts.

b. Press dart seams open and flat, holding front waist dart short, and front of coat straight.

c. Join side body fronts to fronts, matching notches with a 3/8-inch seam.

Press the seam open and flat.

301 SSa-1 10-14 36-45 poly 36-45 poly

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

8.

Make shoulder loops.

Finished appearance. The shoulder loop shall be made with two (2) pieces (top and bottom) of basic material and shall have nylon cord edge braid as ornamentation. The shoulder loop shall finish 2-1/4-inches wide at the armhole and 1-1/2 to 1-3/4-inches wide at the end closest to the collar joining seam and shall be piped all around with nylon edge braid. The braid shall be inserted in the joining seams so that only the type of the cord edge shall be visible. The shoulder loop shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size. The end of the shoulder loop nearest the collar shall have a rounded end. The nylon cord edge braid shall be fully visible and shall not be covered by the collar when the coat is finished and pressed.

a. Sew cord edge braid onto shoulder loop catching interlining.

SSav-2(a) (with cord edge braid)

10-14

36-45 poly

b. Join top piece onto the bottom so that the interlining will finish inside the shoulder loop and also support the buttonhole.

301 SSav-2(b) (with cord edge braid)

10-14 36-45 poly 36-45 poly

c. Trim, turn and topstitch edges of the shoulder loop 1/16-inch from the folded edge of basic fabric.

d. Press shoulder loop.

301 SSax-2(b) (with cord edge braid)

10-14 36-45 poly 36-45 poly

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

8. Make shoulder loops. - Continued

e. Stitch and eyelet end buttonhole in center of the narrow end of the shoulder loop. The inside edge of the buttonhole shall be 5/8-inch from the finished cord edge of the shoulder loop. The cut of the finished buttonhole after tacking shall measure not less than 5/8-inch nor more than 3/4-inch.

Mchne or Hand

63-70 per 1 inch btnhl or 70-80 per 1-1/8 inch

30 or 45 nylon

135 nylon

30 or 45 nylon or 90 nylon

135 nylon

9. Make breast and lower pocket flaps.

Finished appearance. The pocket flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The pocket flaps shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished pocket flap shaper. The seamed edges and corners of the pocket flaps shall be well worked out and the lining shall not be visible on the outside of the pocket flaps. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, properly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the basic material.

a. Seam lining to pocket flaps, notch seam allowance on the bottom edge between corners and trim corners. When lining and pocket flaps are trimmed during the sewing operation to 3/16-inch or less, it will not be necessary to notch.

SSe-2(a)

24 nylon For both stitch types

36-45 poly or 24 nylon For both stitch types

b. Turn and work out edges, points, and corners. Edge baste the pocket flap edges. The lining shall not show on the outside of pocket flaps. Press pocket flaps flat.

or Hand

Comrcl

Comrcl

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

9.

Make breast and lower pocket flaps. - (Continued)

c. Make a vertical buttonhole in each pocket flap centered between the side edges and with the inside edge of the eyelet 3/8 to 1/2-inch from the point of pocket flap. Only the eyelet portion of the buttonhole shall be cut.

Btnhl

42-48 per btnhl or 46-50 per btnhl

30 nylon or

30 nylon or 135 nylon

30 nylon or

90 nylon or 135 nylon

d. Tack ends of buttonhole stitching and gimp by hand or by machine stitching with a bartack (see 3.7.4).

Brtck

21 per brtck

6 per tack

30 nylon 135 nylon

30 nylon 135 nylon

e. Mark sew line on breast pocket flap using the breast pocket flap marker pattern. Mark sew line on lower pocket flap using the lower pocket flap marker pattern.

f. Trim pocket flaps, then overedge stitch the top raw edges of the pocket flap together 1/8 to 3/16-inch gage.

g. Press breast and lower pocket flaps smooth and flat.

or

SSa-1

6-8

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

10. Make two (2) breast patch pockets.

Finished appearance. The patch pockets shape and size shall conform to the finished pocket shaper, be uniform in appearance, and lie flat and smooth without twists, puckers or raw edges. The binding shall have no raw edges showing on the outer side and be caught in the fabric, or the top edge of the pocket area may be overedge stitched.

a. Machine-folded construction (when used).

(1) Form a 1-1/2 (±1/8) inches wide vertical box pleat on the outside in the center of the pocket by a creasing machine or an automatic pleater to conform to the finished patch pocket pleat shaper.

(2) Blindstitch the abutted edges of the pleat together.

SSm-1

4-8

12-16

TABLE VI. Manufacturing operations. – Continued

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

10.

Make two (2) breast patch pockets. - (Continued)

b. Hand-folded construction (when used).

(1) Fold pocket vertically on the outside, matching cut edges of pocket and stitch 1-1/2 (±1/8) inches from the folded edge.

(2) Form a 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches wide vertical box pleat to the outside in the center of the pocket and stitch across the top and bottom of the pleat 1/8 to 3/16-inch from raw edge to conform to finished patch pocket pleat shaper.

(3) Press pleat in center of breast pocket, flat and smooth.

c. Fuse interlining to inside of pockets with the top edges even and the side and bottom edges of the fusible not less than 1/4-inch from the edges of the basic fabric.

d. Trim the bottom corners of the pockets.

e. Turn the sides and bottom edges of the pockets and crease to conform to the finished pocket shaper.

f. Put the shaper on the pocket and trim top edge, if necessary.

OSf-1

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

10. Make two (2) breast patch pockets. - (Continued)

g. Bind the top edge of pocket. The raw edges of the binding may be turned in and caught within the binding, or the inside of the binding may be a raw edge.

or

h. As an alternate to binding the top edge of the breast patch pocket top of the pocket may be overedge stitched.

i. Press pockets smooth and flat.

Make collar.

Finished appearance. The collar shall be uniform in appearance, and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges (top and sides). The composite undercollar shall be one (1) piece and the undercollar interlining is not required.

a. Mark and shape the undercollar to conform to the pattern shaper. Cut in accordance with the undercollar shaper, or undercollar may be die-cut to conform to the pattern shaper.

b. Mark the breakline of the undercollar with the undercollar stand marker.

BSc-1

BSb-1

502, 503 or

EFd-1

6-10

11.

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

11. Make collar.- (Continued)

c. Stitch undercollar at the breakline. The collar stand shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/8) inches at the center.

d. Mark the top collar with the top collar marker.

e. Baste top edge of finished undercollar along straight top edge of top collar matching the notches and distributing fullness of top collar between the notches on the outer edge of the undercollar and top collar.

NOTE: When top edge of the collar is machine felled with simulated hand felling, operation 11(e) may be omitted.

Hand or machine

Comcrl

f. Baste the top collar to the undercollar along the crease line and outer edge, putting in the proper fullness.

g. Trim, turn, and baste the edges of the top collar. Hand or

----- ----- ----- Comcrl

h. Fell top and side edges of top collar to finished undercollar by hand, or top edge may be machine felled with simulated hand felling. The corners and sides shall be felled by hand.

machne (simulated hand felling)

8-10 30 nylon

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

11.

12.

Make collar. - (Continued)

The side edges may be 301 stitched 1/8-inch from the finished shaped edge through all plies. Trim the top collar material only 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the finished seam line.

NOTE: When simulated handstitching is used, the operation shall precede collar basting and the fullness of the top collar shall be distributed between the matched notches on the outer edge of the undercollar and top collar.

i. Trim the bottom (neck) edge of top collar to allow for seaming.

j. Press and crease the stand of the top collar and the undercollar together in one (1) operation to shape, holding the creaseline short and stretching the outer edge of the collar across the area of the shoulders.

Make sleeves and (Type I only) sleeve linings.

Finished appearance. The sleeves and sleeve linings shall be uniform in width. The seams shall be pressed smooth and flat, and shall be without gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The linings shall not be short or tight at the bottom of the sleeves. The sleeve cuff turn up shall be tacked to the inseam and outseam seam allowance. The sleeves shall be left unhemmed for alteration purposes.

2-3

Manufacturing Operations Requirements Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

12. Make sleeves and (Type I only) sleeve linings.- (Continued)

a. Join forearm seam of sleeve, distributing fullness between notches.

b. Press forearm seam open and flat, holding the seam short.

301 or

61-70 poly

c. The turn up of the sleeve lining cuff for Type I only, shall be attached to the bottom of sleeve with a temporary long blind stitch using white thread.

NOTE: The soutache braid for Type I shall be placed in the inside pocket of the coat and for Type II shall be attached temporary to the coat.

101 or

----- ----- Comrcl

d. Join backarm seam of sleeves.

e. Press backarm seam open and flat.

or

f. Join backarm seam and forearm seam of sleeve linings.

31-35 poly

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

12. Make sleeves and (Type I only) sleeve linings. -(Continued)

g. The Type I sleeve linings length shall be at a most 3/4-inch shorter than sleeve length. Tack forearm seam and backarm seam of sleeve lining to forearm seam and backarm seam of sleeves, respectively, distributing lining fullness evenly. The tacking shall extend not more than 6-inches below top to not more than 6-inches above creased bottom edge.

The tacking shall extend from not more than 6-inches below top of sleeve to not more than 9-inches above unfinished sleeve bottom. When tacking is done by hand, both ends of stitching shall be securely backstitched with not less than three (3) stitches. A hand basting stitch, 1-1/2 inches long, will be acceptable.

h. As an alternate, when using a sleeve lining felling machine (see 6.10), join backarm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining. The distance between the notches on the forearm seam shall be left open.

i. Position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of forearm sleeve seam and top of the backarm sleeve hem. Tack forearm seam and backarm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and backarm seam, respectively.

The backarm seam tacking shall extend from approximately the midpoint of the backarm seam to not more than 9-inches above creased bottom edge.

The forearm seam tacking shall be for a distance of 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

13. Make front linings (Type I only).

Finished appearance. The lining shall finish without pleats or puckers.

The inside pocket shall be positioned as indicated on pattern, and of the correct size.

a. Seam underarm seam darts in front linings. The edges of the darts shall be toward the back of the coat.

b. Join lining side body fronts to lining fronts. Press seams open and flat.

c. Seam front lining to facings, placing fullness on the lining to allow facing to lie smooth and flat.

14. Make inside breast pocket and attach combination size-identification and instruction label (Type I only).

a. Mark position for a 3/16 to 1/4-inch double piped pocket on right front lining.

b. The top and bottom raw edges of the facing shall be turned in and seamed to the twill cloth pocket, catching the top edge of the combination size-identification label in the seaming of the lower edge. When either edge is selvage, the edge need not be turned in.

301 LSd-1

Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/…