Coast Guard Coat Mens Standard CGPD_SDB1101 100112vB w pkts.pdf

CG/PD 11-01B

INCH-POUND

CG/PD 11-01B

October 1, 2012 Superseding

CG/PD 11-01A

October 14, 2011

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, MEN’S, STANDARD, SERVICE DRESS BLUE (SDB)

This document is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of homeland Security.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for the Men’s Service Dress Blue

Coat worn by all male officers and enlisted personnel.

1.2 Classification. The coat shall be furnished in the following sizes and lengths as specified (see 6.2).

Sizes: 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60 Lengths: Short, Regular, Long, and Extra-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: U.S.

Coast Guard Clothing Design Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760-5004.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-52106 – Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-50186 – Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50067 – Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth A-A-59826 – Thread, Nylon

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-368 – Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B -371 – Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-B-3461 – Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-15065 – Coat Fronts MIL-DTL-823 – Cloth, Serge, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool

MILITARY STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men’s Dress

(Copies are available on-line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (See 6.2).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

D204 – Test Method for Sewing Threads D629 – Test Method for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles D747 – Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam, Apparent Bending Modulus of D1388 – Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics D1776 – Textiles, Testing, and Conditioning D3776 – Test Method for Weight of Woven Fabric D 5034 – Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies are available on-line from http://www.astm.org or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

16A-1988 – Colorfastness to Light 99-1988 – Dimensional Changes (Shrinkage), Felting and Relaxation of Woven or Knitted Wool Textiles 132-1976 – Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning 136-1989 – Bond Strength of Laminated Fabrics

(Copies of these documents are available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park NC 27709-2215 or from www.aatcc.org. Phone number (919) 549-8141.)

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of these documents are available the American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018-3308 or from www.ansi.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design and construction. The coat shall be a single breasted, 4 button semi-fitted style. It shall have bluff fronts and flaps with turned set patch pockets, two set-in lower pockets, dressed front, square bottom, notched lapels and collar, fully lined body with one inner breast pocket, floating chest piece, felled sleeve linings 1inch (+/- ¼”) up from bottom of sleeve, front facing, side body fronts with inside lining shoulder pleats, two piece center vent back reinforced lock stitch inside at top of vent, sword slit on left side body seam with tab and button and slit closed with lock stitch, and hanger loop at the neck area.

The collar stand break line is 1 ¼ inches and stitched to the undercollar. The undercollar is basted to the neckline. The neck seam shall be marked 5/8 inch at center and shoulder, and then felled.

The inner breast double besom pocket shall be located on the left front according to the markings on the patterns; the opening shall be 5 ¼ – 5 ½ inches wide and 6 – 6 ½ inches deep.

The front of the coat shall have 4 buttons. The top button shall be positioned in horizontal alignment with the center of eyelets in breast pocket flaps and bottom buttonhole shall be positioned in horizontal alignment with top edge of the bottom pocket flaps (+/- ¼”). The remaining two buttonholes shall be evenly spaced between top and bottom buttonholes, all buttons shall be in vertical alignment. Buttons shall be sewn 1 5/8 inch to 1 7/8 inch from front edge. Mark each button to correspond to eyelet end of each buttonhole on coat front. Make the four buttonholes with the inside edge of the eyelet ½ to 5/8 inch from finished edge of coat. The front buttonholes shall be cut first, eyelet and square bar type, and shall measure 1 1/8 inch end to end of stitched length, including bartack, with a 1inch cut opening. Tack ends of buttonholes, stitching and gimp, by machine or hand with a vertical bartack centered on both legs of the buttonhole.

The fronts shall have breast patch pockets with flaps and set-in lower pockets with flaps.

Mark each button to correspond to eyelet end of buttonhole on each pocket flap. The breast flaps shall be tacked on the front at the rounded corners without stitching showing through the flaps. All four pocket flaps shall have 23 ligne, gold Coast Guard buttons.

All pocket flap buttons shall be attached by sewing machine.

The flap buttonholes shall be cut first, eyelet end square bar type, and shall measure 3/4 inch, end to end of stitched length including bartack with a 5/8 inch cut opening. All top corners of flaps shall be tacked down vertically with a 3/8 inch backstitch. The right front shall have 35 ligne gold hopper back Coast Guard buttons.

The fronts shall be fused with a floating chest piece concept. The shoulder pads shall be placed between the interlining and chest piece and tacked into position to chest piece.

Other parts to be fused are the lapel, top collar, side body under arm, back center vent, flaps, sleeve cuff, back hem and side body bottom hem with 1 3/16 inch fusible strip.

The back edge of the right facing shall be tacked to the interlining with one row of blindstitching from no more that 2 1/2 inches from shoulder seam to not more than two inches above inside pocket opening. Continue the tacking along outer ply of inside pocket seam allowance and seam allowance of facing, to within 2 inches of bottom of coat. Tack back edge of left facing to interlining with one row of blindstitching from not more than 2 1/2 inches from shoulder seam to within 2 inches of bottom of coat. Press facing and front edge, putting fullness over chest.

NOTE: When automated steam pressing equipment is used, a ½ inch non-woven fusible tape shall be sewn, using a blindstitch, to the facing back edge; 1 inch (+ ¼ / - 0”) from edge.

The sword flap dimensions are as follows: 3 3/8 inch length by 1 3/4 inch wide. Button hole shall be 3/8 inch from rounded edge of tab.

All seams shall have 10-14 stitches per inch.

3.4 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a 55% polyester/45% worsted wool serge conforming to MIL-DTL-823, Type III, class 3, 11.5 ounce per linear yard (min), 56 inch width basis. The color is Coast Guard Blue 3362. It is anticipated that the amount required for each coat is approximately 2 1/4 yards, inclusive of allowances for residual material scrap with cutting markers averaging better than 82 percent for cloth utilization.

3.5 Lining. The material for the inside pocket linings, lining the coat, sleeves, change pocket welt, facings, pocket flaps, and sword slit tab shall be a 3.7 ounce per square yard (min) 100% rayon twill conforming class 1 of MIL-C-368. As an alternate, the lining material may be a polyester twill cloth, conforming to Class 3, A-A-52106 or Class 2 of A-A-52106, except that the non-fibrous material content and color fastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The color shall match Air Force Blue 1086 or shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6 Undercollar cloth. The undercollar material shall be a 10.5 ounce per square yard (min) wool flannel (A-A-50067) with an interlining of 5.7 ounce per square yard cotton buckram (A-A-50186) or a one piece 4.0 ounce per square yard felt fabric composite.

The weight shall be tested in accordance with ASTM D3776, Option C. The shade shall be black. When the felt fabric composite is used, the cotton buckram interlining is not required. As an alternate the under collar material shall conform to the following: 100% polyester needle-punched non woven material weighing between 8.0 to 10.0 ounces per square yard with a thickness between 0.070 to 0.095 inch at 0.6 psi (pounds per square inch), and exhibiting a cross machine direction stiffness of 0.050 load pounds (minimum) when tested in accordance with ASTM D 747 (see 4.4.1). The color of the felt shall be black.

3.7 Pocketing. The material for the inside breast pockets, lower set-in pockets, top of vent, and pocket stays shall be a 2/1 twill (class 1 of A-A-52106) made from polyester/cotton spun yarn. The fabric shall weigh a minimum of 4.3 ounces per square yard when tested in accordance with ASTM D3776, Option C. As an alternate the material shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except that the non-fibrous material content and color fastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The color shall be black.

3.8 Lower Pocket Flap. The lower pocket flap shall be made in accordance with the lower pocket emery pattern. Overedge top raw edge of flap. The seamed edges and the corners of the flaps shall be well worked out and the lining shall not be visible on the outside of the flaps. The flap shall be pressed keeping the flap lining from exposure. The flap buttonholes shall be cut-first square end with a cut eyelet and shall measure ¾ inch end to end of stitched length, including bartack with 5/8 inch cut opening. The pockets shall be positioned in accordance with the front pattern. The lower pocket flaps shall be placed and stitched to the front with two rows of stitching. The first stitch shall be 3/32 inch from the edge (+/- 1/32”). The second stitch shall be 1/2 inch from the edge.

3.9 Chest Piece. Baste chest piece to fronts. Position the prepared chest piece on the inside of the front with chest piece interlining next to front, aligned with gorge line and armhole curve. Stitch along the edge of arc at armhole with a 1/4 inch seam, catching the chest piece and across shoulder interlining only, allowing room for the shoulder pad.

Tack chest piece seam allowance at front bust seam.

3.10 Bridle tape. Position bridle tape 1/8 to 1/4 inch behind lapel breakline indicated with drill holes on the front interlining. Baste bridle tape (in a straight line) so that the center of the tape is placed on the edge of chest piece and will finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch behind the breakline at a point 1 to 1-1/8 inches from bottom of lapel. Top of bridle tape shall be caught in the top collar gorge stitching. Baste tape even and smooth for a distance of 1 1/2 to 2 inches from gorge, then hold tape taut for a distance of 4 to 5 inches to work in not less than 3/8 inch but not more than 1/2 breast fullness. Baste the balance of the tape without tautness or fullness. Tape and interlining shall be stamp marked to assure amount of fullness. Blindstitch both edges of bridle tape (that is not attached to the chest piece) to interlining

3.11 Hanger loop. The hanger loop for the coat shall be a commercially available jacquard woven material with the wording DRY CLEAN ONLY woven in hanger loop.

As an alternate, the hanger loop may be a cotton tubular braid without any wording conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371. It shall be black or match the lining or basic material and shall show good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in AATCC 132.

3.12 Components

3.12.1 Fusible interlinings.

3.12.1.1 Fronts. The interlining for the coat fronts shall be a weft inserted knit composed of 86/14 viscose/polyester base, 100 percent polyester warp, and 100 percent viscose weft. The coating shall be polyamide with a yield of 17 grams per meter squared.

The total weight of the finished product shall be 108 grams per meter squared. The color shall be black and shall show “fair” fastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles) when tested as specified in AATCC 132. The finished width shall be 72 inches. The cloth shall conform to Lainiere de Picarde style T3G or equal.

3.12.1.2 Small parts fusible interlining. The interlining material for the top collar, lower pocket flaps, breast flaps, breast patch pockets, bottom hem, center vent, lapel facing, top and under sleeve cuffs shall be a fused with a nonwoven web, made of mechanically entangled fibers thermally bonded together and shall be binder free. The fusible cloth may be composed of 100% polyester fibers. The fusible polyamide adhesive shall be applied to one side of the web in a uniform dot pattern. The color shall be black or charcoal gray and shall show “fair” colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles). The finished weight of the fusible material shall be a minimum of 1.5 ounces per square yard when tested in accordance with ASTM D3776, Option C.

3.12.1.3 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Under no circumstances shall the dry heat temperature of the fusing press exceed 315ºF. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusible together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chard, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness.

3.12.1.4 Appearance, strength, and dimensional stability. The fused sample, consisting of fusible interlining and base fabric, shall show no evidence of bubbling, delamination, change of color, or strike through both initially and after 5 dry cleanings. It shall show bond strength of 22 ounces per inch of width initially and 17 ounces per inch of width after 5 dry cleanings. It shall not shrink or elongate more than 2 percent after 1 dry cleaning.

3.13 Floating chest piece. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to Type XVIII of MIL-C-15065.

3.14 Shoulder pads and sleeve-head strips. The shoulder pads shall be crescent shaped according to the pattern with a thickness of 1 1/4 inches at the vertical center, and consist of three layers:

Top 4 ounce per square yard white needle punched felt.

Filler Cotton, one piece shaped to fill out the pas with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. No multiple pieces.

Bottom 4 ounce per square yard needle punched felt.

The sleeve head strip shall be a 4 ounce per square yard material, folded to finish 2 inches wide and 16 inches long with a folded thickness of 3/8 inch.

As an alternate, the shoulder pads shall conform to the following requirements:

The shoulder pads shall have a top and bottom cover of 4 ounces psi white, needle punched polyester felt when tested in accordance with ASTM D3776, Option C. The filler shall be cotton, one piece shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. Multiple pieces are not acceptable. The top cover shall be notched for shoulder seam alignment 4 3/4 inches from the front of pad. The pad shall be sewn in a concave shoulder fitting form utilizing multilane of basting, totaling 6 rows. The pad shall have a compressed finished thickness measuring 3/8 inch (+ 1/8”) using a one-inch foot at 0.1 psi. The finished pad shall measure 8 1/2 to 9 1/2 inches in length, and 4 1/2 to 5 inches in width, with a 1/2 inch armhole cutout on each side. The pads shall not be significantly altered in thickness, shape, or dimension after being commercially dry-cleaned 3 times with an environmentally acceptable solution. The pad shall have a minimum breaking strength of 6.0 pounds in the machine direction and a minimum of 3.0 pounds in the cross direction when tested with ASTM D 5034, Option G-T or G-E.

3.15 Tapes. A woven preshrunk cotton stay tape for the bridle at the breakline of the lapel shall be 5/8 inch wide and the stay tape for the armhole (starting at back shoulder to front notch) shall be 1/4 inch wide. A fusible 3/8 inch wide stay tape shall be used on the front above the buttonhole to the bottom edges.

3.16 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be black, size No. 8, 3 ply, have a soft or glazed finish and shall show a minimum of “good” colorfastness to wet dry-cleaning when tested as specified in AATCC 132.

3.17 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be a cotton-covered polyester core thread, 2 ply, ticket No. 50 or 70 with a maximum elongation of 26% when tested as specified in ASTM D204. The thread for button sewing shall be a cotton-covered polyester core, 2 or 3 ply, ticket No. 16 or 24. The color shall be black and shall show a minimum of “good” colorfastness to wet dry-cleaning and light when tested as specified in AATCC 132 and AATCC 16A respectively.

The thread for basting and tacking shall be a good commercial grade cotton bleached or unbleached. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used only for those basting operations where the thread is required to be moved.

Silk thread, 3 ply with Z twist in the final direction, shall be used for buttonholes and bartacks. Ticket No. F and A, shall be used for buttonholes and ticket No. A shall be used for bartacks. Silk thread, ticket No. A or C, 2 ply with S twist in the final direction, shall be used for machine or hand felling. The thread shall be black and shall show a minimum of “good” colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light when tested as specified above. As an alternate to the silk thread, a nylon thread conforming to the following types, sizes and classes of A-A-59826 shall be used.

Use Thread Type Size Class Making Buttonholes and Bartacks

V (Buttonhole twist, hand sewing, waxed)

10 (Tex 132) A

3.18 Buttons. The buttons for the coat front shall be 35 ligne contract hopper back 1/8 height, matte gold plated fabricated from the materials specified in MIL-B-3461G. The buttons for the flaps shall be 23 ligne, contract hopper back 1/8 height, matte gold plated conforming to MIL-B-3461G. The sword slit tab shall be fastened with a dark blue, 22 ligne, melamine plastic, 4 hole sewing button.

3.19 Labels

3.19.1 Combination Identification/Care label. Each coat shall have a white, non-woven commercial type label sewn on all four sides, located in the inside left front pocket. The printing shall show “good” colorfastness to dry cleaning when tested as specified in AATCC 132 and shall bear the following inscription:

COAT, MEN’S, STANDARD SERVICE DRESS BLUE

Size: 40 Regular (Example) 55% Polyester/45% Wool

MANUFACTURER:

CONTRACT NUMBER:

NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.19.2 Size label. A commercial type removable size label shall be attached on the outside of the lower left front sleeve, 2 to 3 inches from the bottom edge. The ticket shall be legibly printed with the appropriate information in the following format:

SIZE: 40 R (Example)

3.19.3 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer the direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The bar code type shall be a medium, to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item.

3.20 Pressing. Press right front on a right front pressing machine and left front on a left front pressing machine. Sleeves shall be roll pressed. Press balance of fronts, side seams, and back with the proper pressing machine. Press the collar, armholes, and shoulders on the proper pressing machine. The armscye and back of the armhole shall be held short and pressed flat. Press lapels, the creasing of the lapels shall extend a uniform distance from the gorge seam and roll press from midway between the gorge seam to bottom of the lapel. Finish pressing by removing gloss and all pressing impressions

3.21 Patterns. Patterns in the sizes and lengths shown in 1.2 will be furnished by the Government to the contractor for use in cutting working patterns. The patterns allow 3/8 inch for seam allowances or as noted on the patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns may to be modified to accommodate automation;

however, if the working patterns are modified the fit, form, function, design, and measurements must be maintained as intended by this document and the Government patterns.

3.21.1 Pattern seam allowance. 1/4 inch seam – front edge, sword flap.

3/8 inch seams – shoulders, armhole, sleeve inseam and outseam.

5/8 inch seams – sides, center back, under collar neck.

5/16 inch – side body to front.

3.21.2 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the following pattern parts:

Material Pattern Parts Cut Parts Piece Name Basic Material Front 2 FRONT Back 2 BACK Side body 2 SIDEBODY Front facing 2 FRONTFAC Topsleeve 2 TOP- SLV Undersleeve 2 UNDER-SLV Breast pocket block 2 BRSTPKTBLK Lower flap block 2 LOWRFLPBLK Breast flap block 2 BRSTFLPBLK Sword flap 1 SWORDFLAP Top collar block 1 TOPCLRBLK

Lower Pocket Piping 2 LWR-PKT-PIPG Cloth, Lining Front 2 FRONT - LIN Right Back 1 RIGHT BCK - LIN Left Back 1 LEFT BCK - LIN Side Body 2 SIDE BDY - LIN Topsleeve 2 TOP SLV – LIN Undersleeve 2 UNDER SLV - LIN Lower flap lining block 2 LWRFLPLINBL Breast flap lining block 2 BFLPLINBLK Inside pocket piping 1 INSPKTPIPLI Sword flap 1 SWORDFLPLIN Pocket facing 1 PKTFACLIN Lower Pocket Inner Lining 2 LW-PKT-IN-LIN Cloth, Twill Lower Pocket 2 LWR-PKT Fusing Front 2 FRONTFUS Topcollar block 1 TPCLRBLKFUS Breast pocket fusing block 2 BPKTFUSBLK Lower flap fusing block 2 LWRFLPFUSBL Breast flap fusing block 2 BFLPFUSBLK Vent 2 VENTFUS Top sleeve 2 TOPSLVFUS Undersleeve 2 UNDSLVFUS Side body 2 SB FUS Lapel 2 LAPELFUS

Lower Pocket Piping Fuse 2 LW-PKT-PIP-FUS Chest piece Chest piece 2 CHESTPC Felt chest piece 2 FELTCHESTPC Haircloth 2 HAIRCLOTH Shoulder pad 2 SHOULDERPAD Dies Lapel die - LAPELDIE Lapel edge die - LAPEL EDGE DIE Breast pocket die - BRST-PKT-DIE Undercollar - UNDERCLR-DIE Topcollar - TOPCLR -DIE Templates Breast Flap Emery - BRST FL - EMERY Lower Flap Emery - LWR FL - EMERY Lapel collar finished shaper - LP COL SHAPER

3.22 Workmanship. The finished coats shall conform to the quality established by this document. The coasts shall be free from all defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANZI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Undercollar material stiffness. Stiffness (bending moment shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM D 747 except as follows:

a. Unless otherwise specified, the testing conditions shall be in accordance with

ASTM D 1776.

b. The test specimen shall be a rectangle of cloth of dimensions two (2) by one (1) inches with the long dimension parallel to the fabric direction under test, warp or filling, as applicable.

c. The last scale reading shall be recorded only at the specimen angular deflection of 60 degrees.

d. The stiffness is the bending moment of specimen at a deflection angle of 60 degrees and shall be calculated to three significant figures as follows:

Bending moment, in. – lb. = load scale reading X moment weight*

* Testing machine of Tinius Olsen Testing Machine Co.

4.4.2 Daily preproduction testing. The tests below shall be performed every day prior to the start of production.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Procedure Bonding Strength Fronts Small Parts Fusing press settings Actual fusing temperature

3.9.1.1 3.9.1.2 3.9.1.4 3.9.1.4

4.4.2.1 4.4.2.1 4.4.2.2 4.4.2.3

4.4.2.1 Bonding strength. Small parts and front fusible swatches from the actual fusing temperature test strips shall be trimmed to 1 inch by 12 inches. Pinking shears shall not be used to cut strips. The outershell fabric shall be clamped at the top, and the fusible material pulled from the starter strips downwards vertically in a steady motion. A constant-rate-extension (CRE), or a constant-rate-transverse (CRT) or calibrated spring scale type tested (calibrated weekly) may be used. The date of calibration shall be recorded. Average the three bonding strength readings for each fusible type.

Any individual reading failure to meet minimum bonding strength requirements must have the cause determined, corrections made, and the material retested until the problem is resolved before continuing production.

4.4.2.2 Fusing press settings. Before production begins each day, visually check all fusing machine settings for temperature, pressure, and conveyor speed dwell time for conformance with manufacturer’s recommendations. Nonconforming settings shall be adjusted accordingly.

4.4.2.3 Actual fusing temperature. Two swatches of outershell, 12 inches (warp) by 11 inches (filling) and one swatch each of small parts and fronts fusible material, 12 inches (warp) by 11 inches (filling), shall be cut from their respective materials to be used in the first 2 hours of daily production. All test swatches shall be cut into three parts approximately 3.6 inches by 12 inches or slightly smaller to avoid contamination. A temperature test strip shall be placed face down between one specimen of outershell material placed face down and a specimen of fronts fusible paced on top with adhesive side down. All small parts and fronts fusing tests shall have an approximate 1 inch by full width starter strip. This sample is placed in the center of the fusing press with outershell material down. Two additional samples using the fronts fusible shall be prepared and placed on the left and right sides of the press with outershell face down. The process will also be repeated for the small parts fusible without the use of the temperature strip. After the fusing press is fully warmed up, run all samples through the press. When the samples have cooled off, take the temperature strip specimens, determine the average of the three readings. Retain individual temperature readings in a worksheet format. If the average falls outside the fusible manufacturer’s recommended range, or there is a variance in excess of 10o F, determine the cause, correct the problems, and repeat the testing process.

4.5 Performance testing.

Component Testing Component Characteristic Test Method

Interlining(s) fused to basic cloth

Construction 1/ 2/

Appearance Visual Weight ASTM D3776, Option C Bond Strength Initial AATCC 136 After 5 dry cleanings AATCC 136 3/ Shrinkage After 1 dry cleaning AATCC 136 Fusible interlinings Colorfastness After 3 dry cleanings AATCC 132 Lining material Construction 2/

1/ Test before fused to basic material 2/ A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement.

3/ Pressing and shrinkage requirements do not apply.

4.6 Fused parts in-process inspection. One sample of each fused part shall be checked every 4 hours. When checked, the fused parts shall be visually inspected for color change, bubbling, and delamination. Any fused part exhibiting one of the above conditions shall be cause for rejection of the representative sample. The method of bond strength testing shall be as specified by the fusible supplier. A certificate of compliance may be accepted for this requirement.

4.7 End item examination.

4.7.1 Visual examination. After the finished coats are assembled and have been thoroughly cleaned with all loose thread, lint, foreign matter, and spots or stains removed, they shall be examined for the defects specified in 4.7.1.1 and 4.7.1.2.

4.7.1.1 Material defects. Material defects include, but are not limited to the following:

any hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, miss weave, or missing, broken, or loose yarn, visible mend, needle chew, drill hole, run, scorched area, open or thin place, pleat, crease or permanent fold in cloth. Any shade bar, dye streak, or area of no dye penetration, and shading. Any fabric color not as specified.

4.7.1.2 Manufacturing defects. Manufacturing defects shall be determined by MIL- STD-1490 Table III.

4.7.1.3 Destructive testing. The Government reserves the right to perform destructive tests.

4.8 Finished measurements. The finished coats shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements below. All measurements are expressed in inches.

Size Chest (A)

Back Length (B) Sleeve Length (C) Short Regular Long X-

Long Short Regular Long X-

Long 33 36 28 1/4 29 3/4 31 1/4 - 17 18 19 21 34 37 28 3/8 29 7/8 31 3/8 32 7/8 17 18 19 21 35 38 28 1/2 30 31 1/2 33 17 18 19 21 36 39 28 5/8 30 1/8 31 5/8 33 1/8 17 18 19 21 37 40 28 3/4 30 1/4 31 3/4 33 1/4 17 18 19 21 38 41 28 7/8 30 3/8 31 7/8 33 3/8 17 18 19 21 39 42 29 30 1/2 32 33 1/2 17 18 19 21 40 43 29 1/8 30 5/8 32 1/8 33 5/8 17 18 19 21 41 44 29 1/4 30 3/4 32 1/4 33 3/4 17 18 19 21 42 45 29 3/8 30 7/8 32 3/8 33 7/8 17 18 19 21 43 46 29 1/2 31 32 1/2 34 17 18 19 21 44 47 29 5/8 31 1/8 32 5/8 34 1/8 17 18 19 21 45 48 29 3/4 31 1/4 32 3/4 34 1/4 17 18 19 21 46 49 29 7/8 31 3/8 32 7/8 34 3/8 17 18 19 21 47 50 30 - - - 17 18 19 21 48 51 30 1/8 31 5/8 33 1/8 34 5/8 17 18 19 21 50 53 - 31 7/8 33 3/8 - - 18 19 - 52 55 - 32 1/8 33 5/8 - - 18 19 - 54 57 - 32 13/8 33 7/8 - - 18 19 - 56 59 - 32 5/8 34 1/8 - - 18 19 - 58 61 - 32 7/8 34 3/8 - - 18 19 - 60 63 - 33 1/8 34 5/8 - - 18 19 - Tolerance ± 3/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

NOTE: Chest and length of coat measurements shall be taken with the coat fully buttoned, placed smooth and flat.

Chest (A) Twice the measurement taken across front at the base of armholes from folded edge to folded edge.

Back Length (B)

Measurement taken from the base of the undercollar (seam), down center back to the bottom of the coat.

Sleeve Length (C)

Measurement taken from the base of the armhole, along the inseam to the bottom of the sleeve.

4.8.1 Special measurements. Some members require specially made uniforms. A tailor takes certain measurements and records the data on a Special Measurement Order Form (Enclosure 1). The following measurements are required. Height, Weight, Across Shoulders, Shoulder Circumference, Chest, Upper Abdomen, Waist, Lower Abdomen, Seat, Biceps, Right Arm Inseam, Left Arm Inseam, Back Waist Length, Back Coat Length, Shoulder Profile, Back Profile, Posture Profile, and Seat Profile.

The contractor shall adhere to all specification requirements herein for the Service Dress Blue Coat with the only exception of the measurements versus sizes that will be provided in accordance with this section for specially made uniform coats.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the inventory Control Point's packaging activity within the Military Department's System Command. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples. For access to standard shade samples and government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Coat Clothing

Service Dress Blue

6.6 Temperature indicators. Suggested sources for temperature indicators are as follows:

Paper Thermometer Co., MRC, Inc. Reatec Div.

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard - CG

B

A

C

FIGURE 1

MEN’S STANDARD SERVICE DRESS BLUE COAT

NOTE: This figure is provided for general information only, do not use for details of design or construction.