Navy Coat Mens NCTRF PD 29107(final) 7-1-12.pdf

NCTRF PD 29107

July 1, 2012

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-29107C(NU)

June 7, 1989

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, MAN’S, POLYESTER/WOOL

This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a blue double breasted dress coat fabricated from polyester/wool gabardine blend cloth.

1.2 Classification. The coat shall be of one type, in the following sizes and lengths, as specified

(see 6.2).

1.2.1 Sizes. 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, and 50.

1.2.2 Lengths. Extra short, short, regular, long, and extra long.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 – Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

NCTRF Cage Code 32263

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 – Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 – Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52071 – Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52106 – Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-59826 – Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile (Cotton, Tubular)

MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine; Wool Polyester and Wool

MIL-DTL-32072 - Thread, Polyester

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-l490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men’s, Dress

(Copies of this document are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Test Method 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box

12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2125.).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 - Standard Test Method for Sewing Threads

ASTM D747 - Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by

Means of a Cantilever Beam ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D1907 - Standard Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ http://www.aatcc.org/ by the Skein Method

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of

Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these document are available from http://www.astm.org or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.2 and 6.2).

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials. The materials and components shall conform to applicable specifications and patterns and shall be specified herein. Equivalent materials and parts shall require approval by the Navy via the procuring activity (see 6.3).

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be blend of polyester and wool gabardine cloth conforming to Type II, Class 12 of MIL-DTL-10176. The color shall be Navy

Shade Blue 3346 and shall match the standard sample.

3.3.2 Lining, pocketing and tapes material. The material for the lining, pocketing, binding, cross-cut and bias tapes shall be 100% polyester, conforming Class 1, A-A-52106 (see 4.4.2). The color shall be black. When the lining material is used as binding, the edges shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. When used as a stay tape, the material shall be a dyed or nondyed twill cloth. When cross-cut, the twill stay tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin.

The usage and widths of the material shall be as follows when used as a binding or a tape:

a. Binding – ¾ to 7/8 inch wide cut on a 45 (± 5) degree angle for underarm shield

b. Cross-cut tape - 1/2 inch wide for back neck

c. Bias-cut tape - 3/4 inch wide for shoulder, upper part of front armhole and front neck gorge

3.3.3 Undercollar material. The under collar material shall be an all polyester needle punched http://www.astm.org/ nonwoven material weighing between 8.0 to 10.0 oz./sq. yd. with a thickness between 0.070 to

0.095 inch at 0.6 psi (pounds per square inch), and exhibiting a cross-machine direction stiffness of

0.050 load pounds (minimum). The color shall be black. (see 4.4.2).

3.3.4 Chest piece. The chest piece shall be constructed from haircloth 3.3.4.1 and felt cloth

3.3.4.2 (see 4.4.2).

3.3.4.1 Canvas material. The canvas material for the chest piece shoulder, chest shoulder piece and chest piece canvas shall be plain weave construction with 100% spun polyester warp yarns with 100% monofilament polyester filling yarns and shall conform to the requirements of Table

I. The material shall be undyed and contain no sizing or resins (see 4.4.2).

TABLE I. Synthetic haircloth requirements

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz/sq yd, (minimum) 5.2

Yarns per inch, (minimum)

Warp

Filling

Breaking strength, lbs (minimum)

Dry cleaning shrinkage, after 3 dry cleanings, percent (maximum)

2.0

2.0

Stiffness, filling, load lbs (minimum)

Initial

After 3 drycleanings

0.120

0.115

3.3.4.2 Felt cloth. The felt piece for padding the chest piece felt shall be an unbleached polyester needle punched nonwoven material and shall conform to the requirements in Table II (see 4.4.2).

TABLE II. Felt cloth requirements.

Weight, oz./sq. yd. (maximum) 3.4

Breaking strength, pounds, (minimum):

Machine direction

Cross machine direction

Thickness after 3 commercial perchloroethylene drycleanings and pressings (inches, maximum)

0.065

Dry cleaning shrinkage, after 3 dry cleanings, percent

± 4.0

± 2.5

3.3.5 Hanger loop. The hanger loop for the coat shall be cotton tubular braid conforming to Type

III, Class 1 of MIL-C-371 or shall be of the material specified in 3.3.2. The braid shall be black and shall show good fastness to wet-dry cleaning and shall show a crocking rating not lower than

3.0 when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.3.6 Fusible interlinings.

3.3.6.1 Coat front interlining. The fusible shall be Type II, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296, except the minimum dots per inch shall be 200 or Type VIII, Class 1, of MIL-C-44296, except the weight shall be 2.1 oz/sq yd (± 0.5) and the minimum dots per inch shall be 200. The color shall be black. Each fused component shall exhibit evenness of the adhesive with no missing dots and/or extreme heavy coating (see 4.4.2).

3.3.6.2 Small parts fusible interlining. The pattern pieces listed below will be known as “small parts fusible”. See Table VI. The fusible shall be a charcoal or black nonwoven interlining conforming to Type V, Class 1, Style A or B of MIL-C-44296 (see 4.4.2).

Front facing fusing

Hip pocket facing fusing

Hip pocket welt fusing

Lapel peak fusing

Outer breast pocket facing fusing

Outer breast pocket welt fusing

Side body bottom fusing

Side body fusing

Top collar fusing

Top sleeve fusing

Under sleeve fusing

3.3.7 Fused components. The color of the fused basic material shall show no difference in shade from the non-fused basic material after fusing.

3.3.7.1 Bond strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp

(machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.1.1.1, and a minimum of 24 ounces or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.4.1.6. As an option, the bonding strength may be conducted up to two hours after the initial fusing takes place.

3.3.7.2 Colorfastness. All fused components shall show colorfastness to dry-cleaning equal to or better than the basic material standard (3.3.1) as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.7.3 Shrinkage.

3.3.7.3.1 Differential shrinkage. The differential shrinkage between the basic material specified in 3.3.1 and the fused material as specified in 3.3.7.1 shall not exceed 1.5 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.1.5.

3.3.7.3.2 After dry-cleaning shrinkage. After bonding the fusible interlinings specified in 3.3.7 to the basic material in 3.3.1 the after dry-cleaning shrinkage shall not exceed 2 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.1.6. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.3.7.3.3 Final appearance. The final appearance of the fused basic material after three cycles of dry-cleaning proceeded by pressing shall show no change in appearance, any evidence of bubbling, delamination, strike-through, bleed-though, shrinkage or decrease in bonding strength as cited in 3.3.7, 3.3.7.1 , 3,3.7.2 and 3.3.7.3.2.

3.3.8 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stretching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Under no circumstances shall the dry heat temperature of the fusing press exceed 315 degrees F. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and front fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness.

Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded.

3.3.9. Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall have a white top and bottom cover needle punched polyester felt conforming to the requirements in Table III (see 4.4.2). The filler shall be cotton, one piece shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. Multiple pieces are shall not be permitted. The top cover shall be notched for shoulder seam alignment 4-1/4 (± 1/8) inches from the front of the pad. The pad shall be sewn in a concave shoulder fitting form utilizing multilane of basting, totaling 6 rows. The finished pad shall measure 9-3/4 to 10-3/4 inches in length, and 5-3/8 to 5-5/8 inches in width, with a 1/2 inch armhole cutout on each side. The finished pads shall conform to the requirements in Table III and shall not be significantly altered in thickness, shape, or dimension after being commercially drycleaned 3 times with an environmentally acceptable solution. See Figure 1. (See 6.4.2.)

TABLE III. Should pad requirements.

Material Requirement

Needle punched material:

Weight 4 oz /sq. yd.

Thickness at 1 inch diameter presser foot at 0.1 psi

0.475 to 0.625 inches

Finished pad:

Breaking strength

6.0 lbs (minimum)

3.0 lbs. (minimum)

3.3.10. Sleeve-heads. The material for the sleeve-heads shall a 3 ounces per square yard

(minimum) polyester needle punched felt (see 4.4.2). The sleeve-head pads shall conform to the requirements stated in Figure 2. As an alternate, a continuous (on a roll) cut to the required length sleeve-head may be used. (See 6.4.3.)

3.3.11 Tapes.

3.3.11.1 Woven tape. The tapes for staying the coat shall be cotton, preshrunk, conforming to

Types I or II and Classes 1 or 2 of A-A-52071 (see 4.4.2). The types and widths of the tapes shall be as follows:

Type I — 5/8 inch wide stay tape for bridle at break-line of lapel and for joining front facing

Type II— 3/16 inch wide back armhole, and lower part of front armhole

3.3.11.2 Tape, fusible. As an alternate a fusible tape may be used to join front facing. The fusible tape shall be a natural color woven or nonwoven material with a thermoplastic polyamide resin and 5/8 inch in width. Testing shall be in accordance with 4.4.2.

3.3.12 Threads.

3.3.12.1 Thread, polyester core. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester core conforming to

A-A-50199, Type I (see 4.4.2). The color of the thread shall be black. The use of polyester-covered, polyester-core shall be prohibited. The thread and its use shall be as follows in Table

IV.

TABLE IV. Polyester core thread

Use Tex No. Ply

Seaming, stitching, buttonholes and bar tacks 31-35, 36-45, or

46-60

2 or 3

Button sewing 31-35 2 or 3

3.3.12.2 Thread, polyester The polyester thread shall conform to MIL-DTL-32072 in the types, sizes and uses in Table V (see 4.4.2). The color of the thread shall be black. As an alternate

Class A of A-A-59826 may be used.

TABLE V. Polyester thread

Use MIL-DTL-

32072, Type I, Class 1, Subclass A

A-A-59826, Type III

(monofilament)

2/

A-A-

59826, Type IV

Tex No. Tex No. Tex No.

Machine felling and blindstitching

24 or 30 21-25 or

27-34

24 or 30

Buttonholes and bar tacks

70 70-75 -

Hand felling 70 - 35-36 or 45

3.3.12.3 Thread, nylon. When an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is used. The thread shall be nylon waxed monocord

Special No. 5, having a breaking strength of 15 pounds and a minimum length per pound of

3,600 yards and shall be tested for these requirements in accordance with 4.4.2.

3.3.12.4 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be Tex 210, soft or glazed finished cotton gimp thread conforming to A-A-50198 (see 4.4.2). The color shall be black.

3.3.12.5 Colorfastness of threads. The dyed threads cited in 3.3.12.1 through 3.3.12.4 shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning and light with a minimum of 3 rating (see 4.4.2).

3.3.13 Buttons.

3.3.13.1 Metal buttons. The plated metal buttons for the fronts shall be Type I, Style 4, Class A

(gold) 35-line, hopper back, conforming to MIL-B-3461. The buttons for the left front shall be furnished with a bodkin type toggle. The gold buttons shall have a matte finish (see 4.4.2).

3.3.13.2 Plastic buttons. The plastic buttons shall be Type II, Class D, Styles 20 and 21, 30-line for inside anchor button and 24-line for sword vent flap conforming to V-B-871 (see 4.4.2). The buttons shall be in accordance with the Navy Button Shade Standard shade Black 400 (see 6.3).

3.3.14 Labels.

3.3.14.1 Identification and size label. Each coat shall have a combination identification and size label conforming to Type VI, Classes 1 and 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 (see 4.4.2). The label marking shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning. The length Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long, and Extra

Long may be abbreviated as XS, S, R, L, or XL. The inscription shall be as follows:

COAT, MAN’S, 55% POLYESTER/45% WOOL

LINING, 100% POLYESTER (Example)

CONTRACT NO: SPM1C1-100-00-0-0000 (Example)

STOCK NO: 8405-00-000-0000 (Example)

SIZE: 38R (Example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor)

3.3.14.2 Personnel instruction label. Each coat shall have a combination personnel and instruction label conforming to Type VI, classes 3 and 10 of MIL-DTL-32075, except the word

“NAME” shall be in letters not less than 1/4 inch in height; all other lettering shall be 1/8 inch in height (see 4.4.2). The overall size of the label shall be 3-1/2 (± 1/8) inches by 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches. The label shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning and the inscription shall be as follows:

NAME: ____________________________________

DRY CLEAN ONLY

ROLL PRESS SLEEVES AND LAPELS

3.3.14.3 Removable size ticket. A commercial type size ticket for the top sleeve shall be made of suitable commercial cardboard and shall be legibly printed with the information below. The lengths Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long and Extra Long may be abbreviated as XS, S, R, L, or

XL. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking.

Size — 40 Regular (Example)

3.3.14.4 Label/tag, bar code. Each coat shall be individually bar coded with a Type VIII, Class

17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075 and be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN).

There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initial “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The bar codes for the NSN and

UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and packaged as specified. The label shall not cause any damage to the coat such as a spot or stain or damage due to location on the garment. See 4.4.2.

3.3.15 Pocket stay material. Any suitable sew-in 50% polyester/50% cellulosic blend nonwoven suitable for the use as a pocket stay shall be used (see 4.4.2). The color shall be natural or black.

3.4 Design. The sack coat shall be semi-fitted, double breasted, semi-lined with three Navy eagle metal buttons on each front. The coat shall have semi-peaked lapels, front and side body, two-piece back, one welted outside breast pocket, two welted lower front hip pockets, a cash pocket

(inside right front hip pocket as worn), one inside right breast double besom pocket, a sword vent with buttoned flap inside side seam of left forepart (see Figures 3, 4, and 5) and inside booked edges (back and side seams, see Figure 5). The lower pocket welts and the lower buttons shall be in horizontal alignment.

3.4.1 Figure. The figures 1, 3, 4, 5 and 6 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 2 shall apply. Figures are not drawn to scale. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the

Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability or dimensional requirements cited in the specification. The patterns allow 3/8 inch for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in

Table VI.

3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials specified and in accordance with the following pattern parts in Table VI.

TABLE VI. Pattern parts

Material

Piece Name Spec Name Cut

Cloth, 29107-FRONT Front 2

Gabardine, 29107-SIDE_BODY Side body 2

Polyester/Wool 29107-BACK Back 2

(3.3.1) 29107-FRONT_FACING Front facing 2

29107-TOP_SLEEVE Top sleeve 2

29107-UNDER_SLEEVE Under sleeve 2

29107-TOP_COLLAR Top collar 1

29107-HIP_PKT_WELT Hip pocket welt 2

29107-OUT_BR_PK_WELT Outside breast pocket welt 1

29107-HIP_PKT_FAC Hip pocket facing 2

29107-OUT_BR_PK_FAC Outside breast pocket facing 1

29107-UND_ARM_SHIELD Under arm shield 2

29107-SWORD_VENT_FLP Sword vent flap 1

Cloth, Lining 29107-FRONT_LINING Front lining 2 and Pocketing 29107-BK_YOKE_LIN Back yoke lining 1 material 29107-TSLEEVE_LIN Top sleeve lining 2

(3.3.2) 29107-SIDE_BODY_LIN Side body Lining 2

29107-USLEEVE_LIN Under sleeve lining 2

29107-INS_BR_PK_BES Inside breast pocket besom 1

29107-FRT_FLY_LS Front left fly 2

29107-INS_BR_PKT_FAC Inside breast pocket facing 1

29107-SWORDVFPLING Sword vent flap lining 1

29107-HIP_PK_INPLY Hip pocket inner ply 2

29107-HIP_PK_OUTPLY Hip pocket outer ply 2

29107-OUT_BR_PK_INPL Outside breast pocket inner ply 1

29107-OUT_BR_PK_OUPL Outside breast pocket outer ply 1

29107-INS_BRST_PKT Inside breast pocket 1

- Cash pocket 1/ -

Cloth, felt composite

(3.3.3)

29107-UND_CLR_BLK Under collar block 2/ 1

29107-UNCLR_DIE Under collar die 2/ 1

Canvas material 29107-CHEST_PCE_SHLD Chest Piece Shoulder 2

(3.3.4) 29107-CHEST_SHL_PC Chest Shoulder Piece 2

29107-CHEST_CANVAS Chest Piece Canvas 2

Felt (3.3.5) 29107-CHEST_FELT Chest piece felt 2

Interlining woven fusible (3.3.7.1)

29107-FRONT-FUS Front fusing 2

Interlining, 29107-FRT_FAC_FUS Front facing Fusing 2 fusible 29107-SIDE_BODY_FUS Side body fusing 2 light (3.3.7.2) 29107-SD_BODY_BOTFUS Side body bottom fusing 2

29107-LAPEL_PEAK_FUS Lapel peak fusing 2

29107-TOP_CLR_FUS Top collar fusing 1

29107-HIP_PKT_WT_FUS Hip pocket welt fusing 2

29107-HIP_PK_FAC_FUS Hip pocket facing fusing 2

29107-OUT_B_P_WT_FUS Outer breast pocket welt fusing

29107-O_BR_PK_FC_FUS Outer breast pocket facing fusing

29107-TOPSLVE_FUS Top sleeve fusing 2

29107-UNDSLVE_FUS Under sleeve fusing 2

Pocket Stay

(3.3.15)

29107-IN_BR_PK_STAY Inside Breast Pocket Stay 1

Shapers 29107-LAPEL_SHAPER Lapel shaper -

29107-FIN_LAP_COLLAR Finish lapel and collar -

29107-UNCLR_ST_MARK Under collar stand marker -

1/ Pattern not provided; manufacturer shall be required to make this pattern piece.

2/ When using the under collar block pattern piece, the under collar die shall be used to shape the under collar.

3.6 Construction.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. Stitch, seam, and stitching types as specified in Table

VII shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, anyone of them may be used.

Seam allowances shall be maintained with seam sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper

(under thread) shall be on the inside of the coat. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Buttonholes shall be cut clean and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Unless otherwise specified, topstitching and edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch from the edge.

3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching shall be back tacked not less than 3/8 inch, unless otherwise specified. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

The ends of the label stitching (except removable size label) shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks of 401 stitching shall be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.6.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table VII.

3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table VII. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed provided that the finished coat is identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table VII. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this specification.

3.7.1 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table VII shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron and steam pressing machine.

3.7.2 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil shall be allowed, provided the numbering shall not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible shall be covered by the seam allowance. Any method may be used except:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices. No metal device or sew-on type marking shall be used on lining.

(2) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.7.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table VII are as follows:

Stchs Stitches in inch

Mchne Machine

Brtck Bar tack smlr similar

Btnhl Buttonhole nd including dbl double ctd continued min minimum btn button thd thread

TABLE VII. Construction.

No. Operation Stitch

Type

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the coat in strict accordance with Table

V patterns, which show size, shape of component parts, placement of pockets, directional lines, and notches for the proper assembly of all parts.

b. All component basic material (3.3.1) parts shall be cut from one piece of material except the pocket facings, sword vent flap, and the underarm shields, which may be cut from ends. When underarm shields are cut from ends, they shall match each other.

c. All component lining (3.3.2) parts shall be cut from one piece of material, except bias binding for underarm shields, seam binding

(if used), front left fly, sleeve linings, sword vent flap lining, which can be cut from ends and when so cut shall approximately match the main assembly. When pairs of sleeve lining are cut from ends, they shall be shade marked and shall match each other.

d. Cut all other components parts listed in

Table VI as indicated by patterns from the material specified.

e. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from ends need not be shade marked.

2. Replacement of defective parts.

During the spreading, cutting and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-1490 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

TABLE VII. Construction continued.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

3. Make sword vent flap.

a. Stitch sword vent flap lining to sword vent flap ¼ inch from raw edges leaving straight edge open.

or

SSe-2(a) 10-14

b. Turn, work out edges and point: trim where necessary, press and stitch 1/16 inch from finished edge.

SSe-2(b) 10-14

c. Mark and stitch the sword vent flap, a 5/8 to 3/4 inch horizontal buttonhole, eyelet end, taper bar type, worked over gimp with ends securely tacked or an eyelet end, square–bar type may be used. Eyelet shall be 5/8 to 3/ 4 inch from point of flap.

Btnhl Stchs

Per

Size

5/8 in or

¾ in

Btnhl

Stchs

32-38 or

40-46

(incl tack)

d. The finished sword vent flap shall measure

3-1/2 (±1/4) inches long and 2 (±1/8) inches deep in the center.

4. Fusing interlining to outershell.

a. Fuse lapel peak fusing piece on the front fusing piece.

b. Fuse side body fusing piece to side body piece. The edges of the armhole and side body joining seam on the side body fusing piece shall be 1/8 inch in from corresponding edges of the side body piece.

c. Fuse top collar fusing piece to top collar piece.

d. Fuse front facing fusing piece to front facing piece.

e. Fuse 1 inch wide bias cut small parts fusible strip (3.3.6.2) to center back neckline of right and left back pieces.

f. Fuse remainder of fusible pieces to their respective outershells. e.g. hip pocket welt;

outer breast pocket welt; hip pocket facing;

outer breast pocket facing; and side body.

5. Make collar.

a. The composite under collar shall be one piece and no under collar interlining shall be required. Cut the under collar in accordance with the under collar die.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

5. ctd.

Or

b. The under collar may be cut with under collar block pattern piece and then trimmed to conform to under collar die pattern piece.

c. Mark the break-line of the under collar with the under collar stand marker.

d. Stitch the under collar at the break-line; the stand shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/8) inches at the center.

301 SSa-1 10-14

e. Baste top edge of under collar along straight top edge of top collar matching the notches and distributing fullness of top collar between the notches on the outer edge of the under collar and top collar.

Hand or

SSa-1

f. Baste the top collar to the under collar along the crease line, putting in the proper fullness.

Hand or

SSa-1

g. Trim, turn and baste the edges of the top collar.

Hand or

SSae-1

h. Fell top and side edges of top collar to finished under collar by hand, or top edge may be machine felled with simulated hand felling. The corners and sides shall be felled by hand.

Hand or

Mchne

8-10

Or i. As an alternate, the side edges may be stitched 1/8 inch from the finished shaped edge through all plies. Trim top collar material only 1/4 to 3/8 inch from finished seam line.

301 10-14

Note j. When simulated hand stitching is used, the operation shall precede collar basting and the fullness of the top collar shall be distributed between the matched notches on the outer edge of the under collar and top collar.

k. Trim the bottom (neck edge) of the top collar to allow for seaming.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

5. ctd. l. Press and crease the stand of the top collar and the under collar together in one operation to shape, holding the crease line short and stretching the outer edge of the collar across the area of the shoulders.

m. Finished appearance. The collar shall be uniform in appearance, and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges (top and sides).

6. Make sleeve and sleeve lining.

a. Join forearm seam of sleeve (3.3.1) face to face 3/8 inches from edge distributing fullness between notches.

301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Press forearm seam open and flat holding seam short.

c. Stitch sleeve interlining to the forearm seam and sides of the back arm seam allowances. Bottom edge of the sleeve interlining shall be 1/2 to 3/4 inch below turn-up notches. Trim edge of sleeve interlining even with edges of sleeve.

or

SSa-1 10-14

d. Press turn-up of sleeve as indicated by notches in pattern.

e. Join backarm seam of sleeve face to face

3/8 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1 10-14

f. Press backarm seam open and flat.

g. Blind stitch top edge of turn-up to interlining.

103 or

Hand

Efc-1(b) 4-8

h. Join the forearm seam of the sleeve, lining face to face 3/8 inch from edge distributing fullness between notches.

301 Ssa-1 10-14

i. Join the backarm seam of sleeve lining face to face 3/8 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1 10-14

7. Attach sleeve lining to sleeves.

a. The sleeve lining shall extend not less than

3/4 inch nor more than 1 inch above top of basic material sleeve.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

7. ctd. b. Tack forearm and backarm seam of sleeve lining to forearm and backarm seam of sleeve respectively distributing proper fullness in the lining. Tacking shall extend from no more than 6 inches below top to no more than 6 inches above creased bottom edge. When tacking is done by hand, both ends of the stitching shall be securely backstitched with not less than 3 stitches.

301 or

401 or

Hand

4-8

12 stchs for

1-1/2 inches in length

c. Pull sleeve through lining and baste turn-up of sleeve lining. Sleeve lining shall have no less than 1-1/4 inch turn-up.

Hand

Mchne

Note d. The bottom of the sleeve lining may be felled without basting.

e. Fell stitch bottom of sleeve to sleeve turn-up.

Hand or

301 or

6 – 8

6 – 10

6 – 10

f. Turn sleeves to finished position and assemble in pairs.

8. Make cash pocket.

a. There shall be a cash pocket on the inside of the right hip pocket. Cash pocket shall be made from material specified in 3.3.2 and shall measure 3-3/4 (± 1/4) inches wide and 3

(± 1/4) inches deep.

b. The method of construction of the cash pocket shall be at the option of the manufacture.

9. Make back yoke lining.

a. A one piece yoke is required.

b. Turn bottom raw edge 3/16 to 3/8 inch twice and stitch. The finished rolled hem shall be 1/4 to 3/8 inch.

301 Efb-1 10-14

c. Press a 1/2 (+1/8, -0) inch pleat at center as indicated by notches (fold to the right as worn) and press bottom hem flat.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

10. Join front and side body pieces and make sword vent.

a. Each front shall consist of two pieces, a front and a side body.

b. Abut edges of hip pocket openings and zigzag stitch.

304 or

Hand

FSa-1 4-8

2-4

c. Stitch sword vent flap to side (underarm) seam to left front, face to face, 3/8 inch from edge as indicated by notches on pattern.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-14

d. Stitch sword vent facing to front

(underarm) seam of left side body piece, face to face, 3/8 inch from edge as indicated by notches on pattern.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-14

e. Join front (underarm) seam of side body piece to the side (underarm) seam of the left and right fronts, face to face, 3/8 inch from edge (leave the pre-stitched sword vent flap open as indicated by step on pattern).

301 SSa-1 10-14

f. Press each joining seam open and flat.

g. Turn and topstitch sword vent flap through front and seam allowance.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-14

i. Stitch a 3/16 to ¼ inch long by 1/16 inch wide bar tack across each end of the sword vent opening, the bar tacks shall be centered across the joining seam.

Brtck or

Hand

21 per

Brtck

10-12 per tack

11. Mark fronts and sew darts.

a. Mark fronts for position of breast pocket, breast pocket welt, lower pocket opening and lower pocket welts as indicated on pattern.

b. Stitch the cut out dart front section as indicated by pattern, tapering from a point at the top end to approximately 3/8 inch in the middle and ¼ inch at the bottom end. Press darts open and flat.

301 SSa-1 10-14

c. Tack vertical front dart to the fusible interlining. Tack front, back, and across top of outside breast pocket stay to interlining.

301 or

2 – 4

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

12. Make welt pockets.

a. There shall be three single welt pockets:

one on the left breast and one on each hip.

b. Stitch 1/4 inch from edge, face to face, the outer ply of pocket piece to the under ply of welt.

301 Ssa-1 10-14

c. Stitch 1/4 inch from edge, face to face, the inner ply of pocket piece to the facing.

301 SSa-1 10-14

d. Fold fused welt in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch the ends 3/16 inch from edge terminating the stitching at the end of the seam joining the outer ply of the pocket to the under ply of welt. Trim corners, turn to finished position, working out seamed edges and points of welt.

301 SSa-1 10-14 e., The ends and top of welt may be basted or the welt may be pressed flat with a heated pressing iron.

f. Mark width of welt from fold-line in accordance with finished measurements. See

Tables X and XI.

g. Stitch welt to front through all plies as indicated by marks on pattern. As an alternate, the top ply of the welt may be stitched to the front.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

h. The ends of the welt seams may be clipped.

i. Stitch pocket facing to front with the stitching approximately 1/2 inch from the seam joining the top ply of the welt to front.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

j. Cut opening of pocket between the two rows of stitching and tongue notch ends.

k. When alternate method of operation is used

(see operation 12.g), the seam allowance of the top ply of welt shall be turned up and stitched on the underside adjacent to the welt setting seam. Stitch through under ply of welt simultaneously catching the pre-stitched stay.

In the finished coat the welt setting seam shall be spread open.

301 10-14

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch ctd.

l. Turn pocket through cut opening to finished position.

m. Topstitch ends of welt through front and pocket facing. Reinforce corners with a diagonal stitch approximately 1/4 inch in length and backstitch.

301 10-14

n. Stitch sides and bottom of pockets (see finished measurements of welts and pockets).

301 or

SSa-1 10-14

o. Baste welt joining seam open. Hand

13. Make backs.

a. The back shall consist of two pieces.

b. Turn under edges of center back and side seam allowances of each back piece ¼ inch

(±1/16) inch and blind stitch, or use bias lining binding (see Figure 5 booked edges).

103 or

SSba-

3(a)

3-6

c. Join center back seam, face to face, 5/8 inch from folded edge (see Figure 5 booked edges).

301 SSa-1 10-14

d. Press seam open and flat.

e. Stitch 1 /2 inch wide cross-cut tape 1/8 inch from the back neck edge.

301 SSaa-1 10-14

f. Fit and baste yoke lining inside of back maintaining the center pleat in the yoke.

Hand

14. Stitch tapes to fronts

a. Stitch a 3/4 inch binding wide woven tape

(3.3.2) on neck gorgeline of front 1/8 inch from edge.

301 SSaa-1 10-14

b. Stitch a 3/4 inch bias cut tape (3.3.2) on each front along shoulder 3/4 to 1 inch from gorgeline to within ½ to 3/4 inch from armhole.

301 SSaa-1 10-14

c. Stitch a 3/4 inch bias cut tape (3.3.2) on each front of armhole from 2 to 2-1/2 inches above armhole notch to within 1/2 to 3/4 inch from shoulder.

301 SSaa-1 10-14

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch ct’d

d. Stitch a 3/16 inch wide woven tape

(3.3.13.1) on armholes of foreparts from approximately 3/4 inch of underarm seam to approximately 3/8 inch beyond bias-cut tape on armhole holding tape taut.

301 SSaa-1 10-14

e. Press tapes.

15. Prepare right front lining.

a. Seam right front lining to right front facing, face to face, 3/8 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1

10-14

b. Seam right front lining to right front side body lining, face to face 3/8 inch from edge.

301 Ssa-1 10-14

16. Make inside breast pocket and attach labels.

a. There shall be an inside double besom pocket located on right breast of coat as indicated by marks on pattern.

b. Center the inside breast pocket facing on and between the ends of the inside breast pocket piece. Turn under both edges 1/4 to

3/8 inch and stitch. This forms a pocket assembly. Selvage need not be turned under.

The top edge of the identification and size label shall be centered, inserted and caught under the edge of the lining facing. Printing on label shall not be obscured. Stitch the remaining three sides of label to pocketing.

Label shall be located on the pocket ply next to the coat front.

301 LSd-1

Or c. As an alternate, stitch the four sides of the label to the pocket piece with the top edge of label overlapping lining facing.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

d. Fold pocket piece approximately in the center of the lining facing and stitch to right facing-lining assembly at the mark for the pocket opening and a pocket stay on the underside forming a ¼ inch to ¾ inch piped piece.

301 Smlr to LSbr-2(a)

10-14

e. Stitch under layer of pocket piece to facing-lining assembly and pocket stay 1/4 to 3/8 inch above the first row of stitching.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

16.

ctd.

f. Cut opening of pocket through pocket facing-lining assembly and stay piece midway between the two rows of stitching: tongue notch the ends of the opening and turn pocket piece through opening.

g. Topstitch facing-lining assembly at ends and top of pocket opening with tongue tab at each end turned under and seam allowance at top of pocket turned upward.

301 LSq-2(b) (shows finished seam at top of pocket opening)

10-14

h. Stitch pocket piece at sides securely tacking corners through tongue notch and bottom rounding the corners. The back part of the pocket shall be held taut to prevent gapping of pocket opening.

i. Notch top of pocket at front edge for the full width of seam allowance and blind stitch inner ply of pocket to facing (see 33.i for alternate operation).

or

SSm-1 2-4

j. The finished inside breast pocket shall measure 5-1/4 (±1/4) inch wide, 5-3/4 (±1/2) inches deep and shall extend into the facing

1/2 (±1/4) inch. See Figure 3.

k. As an alternate, the above pocket opening may be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine which stitches, cuts, and turns piped edges in one operation. When this machine is used, the piped piece may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine.

Ends of pocket opening shall be securely tacked. In addition, when this machine is used, the contractor may utilize the machine manufacturer’s recommended pocket stay material in addition to the specification material. Close top of pocket on the inside by stitching across the joining seam of top piped piece through all plies. Stitch an inside pocket stay from the back end of the pocket to the armhole.

101 or

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

16.

ctd.

l. Position top edge of personal and instruction label on outside of inside breast pocket 1/8 to 1/4 inch below joining seam of lower piped piece at center of pocket opening and stitch label on all four sides to the front lining through one ply of the pocketing.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

17. Make front fly in left front lining.

a. Position and stitch, face to face, 3/8 inch from raw edge, front edge of front fly lining piece to inner edge of left front facing as indicated by notches on pattern. Turn to finished position and topstitch through fly lining and seam allowance.

301 LSq-2 10-14

b. Position and stitch, face to face, 3/8 inch from edge, front edge of fly lining piece to the front edge of left front lining piece. Turn to finished position and topstitch through fly lining and seam allowance.

301 LSq-2 10-14

c. Join left front facing to left front lining 3/8 inch from edge leaving an opening (fly) between notches as indicated on pattern.

Terminate seam as indicated in operation

14.a.

d. To complete fly opening, stitch 2-1/2

(±1/4) inches in from open folded edge and along top and bottom through front lining and plies of fly lining.

e. Press seam joining front body lining to the facings and darts flat to one side toward side seam. Press pocket smooth and flat, and press open bottom of joining facing seam.

18. Make floating chest piece

a. Position chest piece shoulder piece to shoulder even at shoulder line and approximately 1/8 inch behind neckline and front of the chest shoulder piece. This forms the chest shoulder piece assembly.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

18.

ctd.

b. Place the chest shoulder piece assembly to the underside of chest piece canvas approximately 1/8 inch behind shoulder line, neckline, and front.

c. Quilt the chest shoulder piece assembly to the chest piece canvas together above the dart on the chest canvas piece as shown in Figure

4. This forms the chest canvas assembly.

304 4-8 d Position the shoulder of the quilted chest canvas assembly to the shoulder of the chest felt piece.

e. Quilt all four plies together with rows of stitching 3/8 to 3/4 inch apart and as shown on Figure 4 leaving unquilted area around the armhole for the shoulder pad.

304 4-8

19. Baste floating chest pieces to front.

a. Mark fronts for position of floating chest pieces as indicated by drill holes on front fusible interlining.

b. Position floating chest piece on underside of front in accordance with marks and baste floating chest piece in position to front interlining from top of breast, along front dart seam to bottom of chest piece, to front of chest piece and along front of chest piece.

301 or

c. Baste across shoulder allowing room for setting shoulder pads. Baste around armhole and down back of chest piece. Hopper, flat bed, jump basting may be used.

101 or

301 or

401 or

4 – 6

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

19.

ctd.

d. The gorge step is the starting reference for placement of the bridle tape. Position bridle tape adjacent to and 1/8 inch behind break-line of each lapel. Baste bridle tape so that the center of the bridle tape is placed on the edge of the chest piece and to finish behind the break-line at a point 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of lapel (or front edge of forepart).

Top of bridle tape shall extend sufficiently above gorge to permit catching in the top collar gorge “V” stitching and to finish within

1 to 1-1/2 inches from bottom of lapel. Baste tape even and smooth for a distance of 1-1/2 to 2 inches from gorge, then hold tape taut for a distance of 4 or 5 inches to work in not less

3/8 inch or more than1/2 inch breast fullness.

Tape and chest piece shall be stamped marked to assure amount.

301 or

Hand

4 – 6

e. Blind stitch bridle tape to interlining with three rows of stitching, one at the center, and one at each edge of tape.

103 or

20. Join side bodies and backs.

a. Join back to side bodies, face to face, 5/8 inch from edge (side seam).

301 or

SSa-1 10-14

b. Press seams open and flat.

c. Stitch a 3/16 inch wide woven tape on the back of armhole 1/2 to 3/4 inch from top of shoulder to approximately 1 inch in back of underarm seam, holding tape taut to draw up material and working in proper fullness.

301 or

SSa-1

d. As an alternate armholes may be taped in one operation.

e. Stitch a ½ wide cross cut tape to back neckline.

301 or

SSa-1 10-14

f. Press tapes.

21. Shape lapels and fronts.

a. Position lapel shaper on break-line of lapel and mark as indicated by shaper.

b. Trim lapel, front, and bottom edges of coat front. The front edge of the left front shall be straight with the bottom edge right-angled.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

21.

ctd.

c. Trim the bottom of right front 1/4 inch at front tapering to nothing 5 inches from front edge, so that the right front will not extend below the left front of the finished coat.

d. Marking and trimming of lapels, fronts and bottom may be performed with a clicker machine using dies conforming to pattern shapers.

22. Baste and join facings to fronts and make hem.

a. Match, fit, and baste facing to each front putting in the proper lapel and breast fullness.

The facing shall be held slightly taut at the bottom edges of foreparts.

Hand

b. Tape on lapel edge shall be sewn natural and smooth without material take-up and held taut from bottom of lapel break-line to bottom edge.

c. Stitch a 5/8 inch wide stay tape, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge, to edge of coat front and facing from lapel notch, across top of lapel, down front and across bottom to a point 2 to 3 inches beyond back edge of facing.

301 SSab-1 and

LSbj-1

10-14

As an alternate to operations 20.b and c, a 5/8 inch fusible tape may be used in lieu of the

5/8 in stay tape. When this method is used, the tape must first be stitched according to operation 22c and then pressed and fused to interlining. The back edge of the tape does not need to be blindstitched to the interlining.

d. Blind stitch back edge of tapes to interlinings on fronts and lapels.

103 or

SSm-1 3-6

e. Press edges flat and smooth, pull basting threads and press edge seam open and flat.

f. Notch corners of lapels, trim around rounded corner of lapels, bottom corners and front edges. Turn facing to finished position, work out lapels and bottom corner of fronts.

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

22.

ctd.

g. Baste edges (first basting) across and down lapel and front, and the bottom width of facing

Hand

h. Turn up bottom of coat to finish 1-1/8

(±1/8) inches. Press edge of hem across bottom of coat.

i. Turn under bottom edge on back sections of coat 1/4 (±1/16) inch to a point extending just beyond side seams and baste complete turn-up across bottom of coat.

Hand

Or j. As an alternate the bottom edge of the coat may be finished with 3/4 inch binding.

Mchne BSb-1 10-14

k. Blind stitch complete bottom turn-up of coat.

301 or

306 or

Hand

EFl-1 and

EFm-1

6-8

l. Baste facings along lapel fronts (second basting) approximately 1 inch from edge holding lower corner of coat rolled in such a manner as to cause lower front edge of forepart to roll inward.

Hand

m. Baste a row of stitching diagonally from lapel break to the point of the lapel placing fullness in lapel, to permit lapel to roll.

Hand

n. Baste along break-line of lapel, allowing fullness in facing, to permit lapel to roll.

Hand

o. Baste back edge of facing putting fullness over chest.

Hand

23. Tack facing to interlining.

a. Tack the back edge of the right facing to the interlining with a row of blind stitching from not more than 2-1/2 inches from the shoulder seam to not more than 2 inches above inside breast pocket opening. Continue the tacking along outer ply of inside breast pocket seam allowance and seam allowance of facing to approximately 2 inches from bottom of coat.

103 or

306 or

SSm-1

2-4

Seam

Type

Stitches per inch

b. Tack the back edge of the left facing to the interlining with a row of blind stitching from not more than 2-1/2 inches from shoulder seam to approximately 2 inches from bottom of coat.

103 or

306 or

24. Sew shoulder pads.

Insert shoulder pads between interlining and felt padding and tack to shoulder in proper position.

301 or

Hand

2-4

2-4

25. Baste lining.

a. Tack upper back edge of inside breast pocket to interlining with ends of stitching back tacked.

301 or

Hand

4-6

3-5

b. Fit and baste lining to coat front taking in excess material and forming a vertical pleat at each shoulder. Baste across shoulders, around armholes down the side seam to the bottom.

And across the bottom.