Marine Corps Coat Womens Blue PD-FDBCE 16 Oct 2017 Final.pdf

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2000 Lester St., Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SIAT-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST

Online Database at https://assist.dla.mil.

ASMC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

PD-FDBCE

16 Oct 2017

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, WOMAN’S: POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE, BLUE, ENLISTED

This purchase description is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all

Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for a blue, polyester/wool gabardine dress coat worn by enlisted female military personnel of the United States Marine Corps.

1.2 Classification. The coats are of the following sizes and lengths, as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Schedule of sizes.

Extra Short Short Regular Long Extra Long

X0 X0 X0 X0 X0

2 2 2 2 2

4 4 4 4 4

6 6 6 6 6

8 8 8 8 8

10 10 10 10 10

12 12 12 12 12

14 14 14 14 14

16 16 16 16 16

18 18 18 18 18

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description.

This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and NonWoven

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil https://assist.dla.mil/

16 October 2017

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular

MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

MIL-P-15064 - Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head

MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts

MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling for Women’s Uniform Clothing

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of the document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

THE INSTITUTE OF HERALDRY (TIOH)

U.S. ARMY STANDARD METAL FINISH CHIP SET

(Copies of the chip set are available from The Institute of Heraldry, 9325 Gunston Road, Room S-113, Fort Belvoir, VA 22060-5579, or by emailing us.army.belvoir.hdqa.mail.tioh-webmaster@mail.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see

6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

AATCC TM 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC TM 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC TM 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene Machine

Method

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Figures for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of

Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Materials and components.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat, including the binding for the upper edge of the collar interlining, shall be a 6.8 ounce per square yard (oz./yd.

) cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, dark blue shade 2312, conforming to MIL-DTL-10176, type II, class 12 when tested a specified in 4.4.1.

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat body, sleeves, collar, vent and for the collar eyelet covers shall be an acetate lining material, twill or satin (alternate) weave, conforming to the requirements specified in table I below when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE I. Lining requirements.

Characteristic Twill

Requirement

Satin

Requirement

Shade Good match to basic material

Fiber identification Acetate

Yarns per inch (minimum)

Warp 120 288

Filling 68 68

Weight (minimum) 3.8 oz/yd

4.9 oz/yd

Breaking strength (minimum)

Dry: Warp 74 pounds 83 pounds

Dry: Filling 49 pounds 117 pounds

Wet: Warp 54 pounds 54 pounds

Wet: Filling 34 pounds 77 pounds

Colorfastness to perspiration (minimum) (see 6.6)

Color change 5 5

Staining on cotton 3.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to drycleaning (minimum) (see 6.6)

Color change 4.5 5

Staining on cotton 4.5 5

Staining on wool 4.5 5

Colorfastness to crocking (minimum) (see 6.6) 4.5 4.5

Dimensional stability to drycleaning (maximum)

Individual sample unit +3.5% +3.5%

Lot average +3.0% +3.0%

3.3.3 Stay pieces. The material for the stay pieces for the armhole and shoulder seams shall be a black polyester or polyester blend twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

The requirement for seam efficiency in A-A-52106 shall not apply.

3.3.4 Fusible interlinings. Fusible interlinings shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommended time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.3.4.1 Front and side panels, center back neck, and center vent. The fusible interlining for the front and side panels, center back neck, and center vent shall be a woven twill cloth conforming to MIL-C-44296, type II, class 1, style B, or a weft inserted knit cloth conforming to MIL-C-44296, type III, class 1, style B, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color shall be black or charcoal grey.

3.3.4.2 Front facings, shoulder strap, ornamental sleeve piece and top and under sleeve. The front facings, shoulder strap, ornamental sleeve piece, top sleeve and under sleeve shall be fused with a black or charcoal grey non-woven fusible interlining, conforming to MIL-C-44296, type V or VI, class 1, style A or B, or type VIII, class

1, style A, when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.5 Floating chest piece. The chest piece will be constructed as depicted in figure 1 from the following materials, when tested as specified in 4.4.1: haircloth (see 3.3.5.1) for the chest piece, shoulder piece, wedge piece and neck piece; needle punched non-woven for the chest padding (see 3.3.5.2); and a polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave cloth for the buttonhole stand (see 3.3.5.3).

3.3.5.1 Haircloth. The haircloth (see 6.4) for the chest piece, shoulder piece, wedge piece and neck piece shall conform to the requirements of MIL-C-15065 when tested as specified in 4.4.1 and 4.4.1.1, except the patterns shall be in accordance with table VI.

3.3.5.2 Chest piece padding. The padding for the chest piece shall be a polyester, needle punched, non-woven material conforming to the requirements specified in table II, when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE II. Chest piece padding requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Fiber identification 100% polyester

Color Unbleached

Construction Needle punched non-woven

Weight (minimum) 3.4 oz./yd

Thickness (minimum)

Initial 0.055 inch

After 3 drycleanings and steam pressings 0.065 inch

Breaking strength (minimum)

Machine direction 20 pounds

Cross direction 40 pounds

Shrinkage after 3 drycleanings and steam pressings (maximum)

Machine direction 4.0%

Cross direction 2.5%

3.3.5.3 Buttonhole stand. The material for the buttonhole stand shall be a black polyester or polyester/cotton twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The requirement for seam efficiency of A-A-52106 shall not apply.

3.3.6 Collar. The collar, as depicted in figure 2, will be constructed in accordance with the requirements stated in operations 6-11 and operations 52-53 of table VII.

3.3.6.1 Collar padding. The material for padding the collar shall be a polyester, needle punched non-woven material conforming to the requirements specified in table III, when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

TABLE III. Collar padding requirements.

Fiber identification 100% polyester

Construction Needle punched non-woven

Weight 4.2 - 5.0 oz/yd

3.3.6.2 Collar interlining. The material for the interlining of the collar shall be a 2-ply cotton buckram laminated with a starch finish, and natural in color conforming to A-A-50186, type IV when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.6.3 Binding for lower edge of collar interlining and collar eyelet reinforcement pieces. The material for binding the lower edge of the collar interlining and collar eyelet reinforcement pieces shall be a black polyester or polyester blend twill or plain weave cloth conforming to A-A-52106, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The requirement for seam efficiency in A-A-52106 shall not apply.

3.3.6.4 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for closing the collar shall conform to the requirements specified in figure 3 and table IV when tested as specified in 4.4.1 and 4.4.1.2.

TABLE IV. Collar closure hook and eye requirements.

Material Cartridge Brass 70/30 (UNS Alloy C27000)

Design Per figure 3

Dimensions Per figure 3

Color/Finish TIOH Chip #21, dull flat black

Coating type Lacquer, clear, commercial grade

Coating application Continuous, level, and adherent

Completely coating the hook and eye

Free from lint, dust or other foreign inclusions

Coating tackiness No tackiness

Openings Completely open, free of any lacquer or black finish

Edges and surfaces Clean and smooth

Free from burrs and tool marks

No sharp edges or roughness

3.3.7 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to MIL-P-15064, type IV when tested as specified in

4.4.1. As an option, the sleeve head may be provided on a continuous roll and cut to the required length.

3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to MIL-P-15064, type III, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.9 Hanger loop. The hanger loop shall be made from a cotton, tubular, flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breaking strength 50 lbs., color black, conforming to MIL-B-371, type VIII, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.10 Armhole shield binding. The binding for the armhole shields shall be bias cut from the lining material specified in 3.3.2. The cut binding material shall be 3/4 to 1 inch wide and the edges shall be finished to prevent unravelling, when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.11 Scarlet piping. The material used for piping on the shoulder straps; the upper and lower edges of the collar; the upper, lower and back edges of the ornamental sleeve pieces; the left bottom edge; and the right bottom and right front edges of the coat shall be a wool broadcloth, scarlet shade 2501, conforming to MIL-C-29405, type I when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.12 Tapes.

3.3.12.1 Woven tape. The armholes shall be taped with a 1/4 inch wide, plain weave, unbleached cotton tape conforming to A-A-52071, type II, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.12.2 Fusible tape. The fusible tape used to join the left facing to the left front shall conform to

MIL-C-44296, type I, class 1, style B, except it shall be cut in the filling (cross-cut) direction, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The fusible tape shall be 5/8 inch wide, black or charcoal color, with a thermoplastic polyamide resin.

3.3.13 Threads. The threads used in the construction of the coat shall conform to the requirements of the thread

Commercial Item Descriptions as cited below when tested as specified in 4.4.1, and shall match the shade requirement.

TABLE V. Thread requirements.

Use

(Seam type)

Description Document Ticket No.

(Tex)

Ply Shade

Seaming

(301)

Cotton-covered polyester core

OR Mercerized cotton

A-A-50199, type I

A-A-52094, type III

50 (36-45) for needle and bobbin

A (50) for needle and bobbin

Good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Seaming

(401)

70 (31-35) for looper

A (50) for needle

0 (40) for looper shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Overedging (504 and 505)

70 (31-35) for needle and looper

0 (40) for needle and looper shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Raise, Edge &

Topstitching and bobbin

A (50) for needle and bobbin shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Buttonholes

Nylon, twisted, soft finish

A-A-59826, type I, class

A

Government Letter

Size B (45-46) &

F (90-101)

2 or 3

3 or 4 shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Buttonhole reinforcement

Cotton gimp A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish

8 (210) Good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Buttons Cotton-covered polyester core

30 (61-70) 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Eyelets Nylon, twisted, soft finish

A-A-59826, type I, class

A

Government Letter

Size B (45-46)

2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Felling Nylon, tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish

A-A-59826, type VI

Government Letter

Size O (24)

2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Machine tacking armholes

Cotton-covered polyester core

30 (61-70) 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Tacking

(103 or Hand)

50 (36-45) or

70 (31-35)

Good match to the shade of the basic material (see 3.3.1 and 6.7)

Basting Suitable commercial grade cotton, cotton-covered polyester core, nylon or monofilament synthetic

White or Clear

3.3.13.1 Colorfastness. All threads, except thread used for basting, shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration and drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.14 Buttons.

3.3.14.1 Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, 24 karat gold plated conforming to the Institute of

Heraldry metal chip No. 6, 27 and 40 line, conforming to MIL-B-3461, type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.14.1.1 Ring toggles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to ornamental sleeve pieces and shoulders shall conform to MIL-B-3461when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.14.1.2 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for the ornamental sleeve piece and shoulder buttons shall be punched from cotton buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color conforming to

A-A-50186, type IV when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.3.15 Hook and loop fastener tape. The hook and loop fastener tape for securing the waist shall conform to

A-A-55126, type I, class 1 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Colorfastness to laundering shall not apply. The color shall be black.

3.3.16 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label and a separate size label conforming to the requirements below. As an alternate to the material specified in MIL-DTL-32075, the label material may be a 100% polyester coated tape (see 6.5).

3.3.16.1 Identification/instruction label. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label conforming to type VI, class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075, including the colorfastness to drycleaning requirement, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the following inscription:

COAT, WOMAN’S: POLYESTER/WOOL, GABARDINE, BLUE, ENLISTED

FIBER CONTENT:

CONTRACT NO: SPO100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

LOT NO:

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

TO KEEP YOUR COAT LOOKING SMART,

INSIST ON IT BEING PROPERLY PRESSED

PRESSING INSTRUCTIONS

1. AVOID PRESSING DRY OR WITH TOO HOT AN IRON.

2. REMOVE ALL GLOSS FROM EDGES AND SEAMS BY

PRESSING WITH A DAMP CLOTH.

3. CREASE ONLY THE LOWER THREE-FOURTHS OF

SLEEVES.

3.3.16.2 Size label. Each coat shall have a size label conforming to type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075, including the colorfastness to drycleaning requirement, when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the label shall be white. The inscription on the size label shall conform to the example below, using MIL-STD-984: Table III Body

Dimensions for U.S. Marine Corps for the bust and hip circumference, and 3.3.16.2.1 for the height range.

EXAMPLE SIZE CODE 12R

BUST CIRC 38”

HIP CIRC 40-1/2”

HEIGHT 63-1/2 – 67”

NSN 8410-XX-XXX-XXXX

Note: The bust and hip circumference for each size label is contained in table III of MIL-STD-984, and is not to be confused with the finished dimensions of the coat contained in 3.9 of this document.

3.3.16.2.1 Height. The following information shall be cited for height, as appropriate:

Height Inscription

XS Less than 60 inches (XS)

S 60 to 63-1/2 (S)

R 63-1/2 to 67

L 67 to 70-1/2 (L)

XL More than 70-1/2 inches (XL)

3.3.16.3 Barcode label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar coded with a paper label/tag conforming to

MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The tag shall be attached to the item by a fastener. The barcoding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN) and the appropriate 12 digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned to the NSN by the government. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when the item is folded and/or packaged as specified herein. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.4 Design. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on figures 4 thru 7, and the requirements specified on figures 1 thru 3. The coat is fitted, single-breasted, with fully-lined sleeves and body. The front is comprised of six panels, and the back is comprised of four panels. The stand-up collar is closed by a hook and eye closure, and has an eyelet and eyelet covering piece at each end. The coat front is closed by six insignia buttons

(buttonholes positioned on right front and buttons sewn onto left front) and a piece of hook and loop fastener tape at the waist (hook on left front, loop on right facing). The coat has a center vent, ornamental sleeve pieces at the bottoms of the sleeves with insignia buttons, and stitched-down shoulder straps with insignia buttons. A belt loop is positioned at the waist on each side seam. The top and bottom edges of collar, right front, bottom edges of coat, edges of the shoulder straps, and top, bottom and back edges of ornamental sleeve pieces are piped with scarlet broadcloth.

3.5 Figures. The floating chest piece (see 3.3.5) shall conform to the construction specified on figure 1. The collar

(see 3.3.6) shall conform to the construction specified on figure 2. The collar closure hook and eye (see 3.3.6.4) shall conform to the requirements specified on figure 3. All other figures are furnished for information purposes only.

When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). Standard patterns show size, seam allowance, and directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. When using automatic equipment, minor modifications are also permitted, providing the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the document or those governed by the standard pattern. The standard patterns provide the following seam allowances:

Amount (inch) Seam allowance location

3/16 - 1/4 Left and right front edge of coat

3/4 Side seams

5/8 Center back seam

3/8 All other seams unless otherwise specified

3.6.1 Pattern parts. Component parts shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the number of parts specified in table VI. Requirements for cutting component parts that are not included in the table VI are included in 3.8.

TABLE VI. Pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Basic material (3.3.1)

Right Front 1/ FDBCE-RIGHT_FRONT 1

Left Front 1/ FDBCE-LEFT_FRONT 1

Side Front FDBCE-SIDE_FRONT 2

Side Front Dart FDBCE-SD_FRT_DART 2

Side Back FDBCE-SIDE_BACK 2

Center Back FDBCE-CENTER_BACK 2

Right Front Facing 1/ FDBCE-RGT_FRT_FAC 1

Left Front Facing 1/ FDBCE-LFT_FRT_FAC 1

Top Sleeve FDBCE-TOP_SLV 2

Under Sleeve FDBCE-UND_SLV 2

Outer Collar FDBCE-OUTER_COLLAR 1

Armhole Shield FDBCE-ARMHOL_SHLD 2

Shoulder Strap FDBCE-SHLDR_STRAP 2

Ornamental Sleeve Piece FDBCE-SLV_ORNAMNT 2

Lining

(3.3.2)

Front Lining FDBCE-FRNT_LINING 2

Right Back Lining FDBCE-RGT_BCK_LIN 1

Left Back Lining FDBCE-LFT_BCK_LIN 1

Side Back Lining FDBCE-SID_BCK_LIN 2

Top Sleeve Lining FDBCE-TOP_SLV_LIN 2

Under Sleeve Lining FDBCE-UND_SLV_LIN 2

Collar Lining FDBCE-COLLAR_LIN 1

Collar Eyelet Cover Lining FDBCE-CL_EYCV_LN 2

Fusible interlining (front and side panels, center back neck, and center vent): Woven or weft knit

(3.3.4.1)

Right Front Fusing FDBCE-RGT_FRT_FUS 1

Left Front Fusing FDBCE-LFT_FRT_FUS 1

Side Front Fusing FDBCE-SD_FRT_FUS 2

Side Front Dart Fusing FDBCE-SD_FR_DRT_FU 2

Center Back Neck Fusing FDBCE-CTR_BK_NKFUS 2

Center Vent Fusing FDBCE-CNT_VENT_FUS 2

Fusible interlining (front facings, shoulder straps, ornamental sleeve piece, and top and under sleeve:

Non-woven

(3.3.4.2)

Right Front Facing Fusing FDBCE-RT_FR_FC_FS 1

Left Front Facing Fusing FDBCE-LF_FR_FC_FS 1

Shoulder Strap Fusing FDBCE-SH_STRAP_FUS 2

Ornamental Sleeve Piece

Fusing

FDBCE-SLV_ORN_FUS 2

Top Sleeve Fusing FDBCE-TOP_SLV_FUS 2

Under Sleeve Fusing FDBCE-UND_SLV_FUS 2

Collar interlining

(3.3.6.2) Collar Interlining FDBCE-COLLAR_INTRL 1

1/ As an option, the fronts and facings may be cut as pairs. When cut as a pair, the manufacturer shall dress the right side.

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM

D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of the operation, any one of the specified methods may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams uniformly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, gathers, other distortions or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Unless otherwise specified, joined components shall lie smooth and flat. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching. Where stitch type 401 or 101 is used, the loops of the chain shall be on the inside of the coat. Edge stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge unless otherwise specified. During the overedge operations, the knife shall be set to trim the loose threads and raveled edge without cutting the material. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Gimp shall be pulled to the underside. Use of additional basting to facilitate manufacturing is acceptable provided the basting thread does not show on the outside of the finished item.

3.7.1.1 Thread sizes for stitches, seams and stitching. The thread sizes used for the stitch type and seam type requirements of 3.8 shall be in accordance with the requirements listed in table V.

3.7.1.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in 3.8.

3.7.1.3 Thread uniformity, thread breaks, and ends of seams. The shade of the black thread visible on the outside of the coat shall be consistent: multiple shades of thread on the outside of the coat are not allowed. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in another line of stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) shall be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

TABLE VI. Pattern parts 1/ - Continued.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Floating chest piece/

Haircloth

(3.3.5.1)

Chest Piece FDBCE-CHEST_PIECE 2

Shoulder Piece FDBCE-SHLDR_PIECE 2

Wedge Piece FDBCE-WEDGE_PIECE 2

Neck Piece FDBCE-NECK_PIECE 2

Floating chest piece/

Chest piece padding

(3.3.5.2)

Chest Padding FDBCE-CHEST_PADDING 2

Floating chest piece/

Buttonhole stand (3.3.5.3) Buttonhole Stand FDBCE-BUTTON_STAND 2

Templates

Left Vent Marker FDBCE-LFT_VNT_MRKR --

Ornamental Sleeve Piece

Marker

FDBCE-SLV_ORN_MRKR --

Side Seam Belt Loop

Marker

FDBCE-BELTLOOP_MRKR --

Shoulder Strap Placement

Marker

FDBCE-SHLDR_STR_MRKR --

Shoulder Strap Finished

Shaper

FDBCE-SH_STR_FIN_SH --

Ornamental Sleeve Piece

Finished Shaper

FDBCE-ORN_SL_FIN_SH --

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coats shall be made in accordance with all operation requirements specified in table VII. The contractor is not required to follow the sequence of operations specified provided the finished coats meet the finished form, fit, and function requirements as those produced by following the sequence of operations specified in table VII. All pressing operations referenced in table VII shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine commercially intended for tailored coats. A left and right chest press, designed specifically for finish pressing, is required. Any additional underpressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible.

TABLE VII. Table of operations.

No.

Operation

Stitch type

Seam type Stitches per inch

1. Cut and shade mark.

a. Cut the component parts (listed in 3.6.1) as indicated on the patterns and in the material specified. Unless otherwise specified on the pattern, the directional line shall be with the warp direction of the cloth. Additional cutting requirements are provided below for those components not controlled by a furnished pattern piece.

b. Cut all basic material parts (see 3.3.1) of the coat from one piece of basic material, except the belt loops, armhole shields, and front facings, which may be cut from ends.

Cut the binding for the upper edge of the collar interlining from the same piece of basic material as the outer collar, 1 inch wide and of sufficient length to comply with operation

7. The belt loops shall be cut 1 inch wide of sufficient length to comply with operations 4 and 26. Parts cut from ends shall be a good match to the main assembly. When armhole shields are cut from ends, the shields shall match each other.

c. Cut the lining (see 3.3.2) for the fronts, backs, and collar from one piece of lining material. All other lining components may be cut from ends. All sleeve lining parts

(2 top and 2 under) shall match in shade.

d. Cut the two armhole and two shoulder stay pieces (see

3.3.3) on the bias, 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide and 4 +1/4 inches long.

e. Cut the fusible interlinings (see 3.3.4.1 and 3.3.4.2) in accordance with directional lines on the patterns.

f. Cut the collar padding (see 3.3.6.1) 1-1/4 inches wide and sufficiently long to fold over the ends of the interlining for each collar size.

g. Cut the binding for lower edge of collar interlining (see

3.3.6.3) on the bias, 1 inch wide, of sufficient length to comply with operation 7.

h. Cut the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces (see 3.3.6.3) not less than 2 inches long and 1-3/4 inches wide.

i. Cut the braid for the hanger loop (see 3.3.9) of sufficient length to comply with finished length (operation 44.)

j. Cut the binding for the armhole shields from the bias binding (see 3.3.10), 3/4 to 1 inch wide.

TABLE VII. Table of operations – Continued.

No. Operation Stitch type

Seam type Stitches per inch

k. Cut the scarlet piping (see 3.3.11) on the straight of the cloth. The piping shall be cut 5/8 inch wide for shoulder straps, collar and ornamental sleeve pieces, and 1-1/8 inches wide for the left bottom and right bottom/front edges of the coat.

l. Punch the reinforcement discs (see 3.3.14.1.2) 7/8 inches wide (diameter) with a 1/8 inch hole at the center.

m. Dress the left vent in accordance with the left vent marker.

n. The component parts of the coat and lining cut from one piece of basic material and lining material, respectively, and the sleeve linings cut from ends, shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment.

The numbering shall not show on the outside of the garment or on the lining, and whenever possible, shall be covered by the seam allowance. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed. The following methods shall not be used: corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on shade tickets, adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

2. Replace defective or damaged parts.

a. During cutting, replace all parts containing defects such as hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, open place, loose yarn, snagged thread, area of no dye penetration, dye streak, missing yarn, broken yarn, thin place, shade bar, or woven in waste.

b. During the manufacturing process, replace all parts damaged by needle chews, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, or burns.

3. Apply fusible interlining.

a. Position fusible onto related component part (see table VI for listing), set back 1/8 inch from edges, and fuse together in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommendations for time, temperature and pressure.

b. Fused lots shall be allowed to cool to the touch prior to tying into bundles.

4. Make belt loops.

a. Finished appearance. The belt loops shall finish 1/2 + 1/8 inch wide and shall finish smooth and flat.

b. Fold the sides of the strip lengthwise towards the center, 406 EFh-1 10-14

Seam type Stitches per inch abutting the raw edges together with a covering stitch. Each row of stitching shall be uniformly 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

c. Cut each loop for the left and right side 3-1/2 + 1/8 inches long.

5. Make shoulder straps.

a. Finished appearance: The shoulder strap shall finish smooth, flat, and uniform in appearance, and shall be in accordance with the shoulder strap finished shaper

(including piping). The scarlet piping shall be uniformly stitched to the shoulder strap without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats, and shall be uniformly worked out to the edges. In the finished coat, the piping shall finish 1/16 to

1/8 inch wide.

b. The shoulder strap shall consist of one ply of basic material interlined with fusible, and shall be piped with scarlet broadcloth.

c. Seam a 5/8 inch wide strip of scarlet piping to the shoulder strap, along front and back edges and around collar end, 1/8 inch from edges.

OR

SSe-2(a) 10-14

d. Fold the scarlet piping, slightly offsetting the raw edges, and stitch to edge of shoulder strap, along front, back and collar end, 1/8 inch from the edges.

SSav-2(a)

10-14

e. Turn back the shoulder strap and scarlet piping, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond the ends of the shoulder strap. Topstitch the shoulder strap uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edge of piping through all plies. Clip the excess material at the collar end so that the shoulder strap will lie flat.

BSm-2(b)

(modified)

10-14

f. Press the shoulder strap smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

6. Make collar eyelet covers.

a. Finished appearance: The collar eyelet cover shall finish

1-3/4 + 1/8 inches wide.

b. Turn under the side edges of the cover and stitch 1/8 inch from the folded edges, catching the turned under portions in the stitching.

EFa-1

c. Fold each cover in half across the width and seam 1/16 inch from the folded side edges. Continue stitching across

301 SSc-1 (side edge) and OSf-1

Seam type Stitches per inch the folded end. (folded end)

7. Assemble collar interlining.

a. Finished appearance: The edges of the upper and lower binding of the collar interlining shall be uniformly stitched

1/4 inch from the folded edges, and shall not be tight or full.

The interlining and both edges of each binding shall be securely caught in the binding stitching. The interlining shall finish with the collar eyelet reinforcement piece positioned on the inside and the felt padding positioned on the outside of the interlining. The collar eyelet covers shall be positioned so that in the finished collar, the covers are centered over the eyelets.

b. Position the collar eyelet reinforcement piece at each end of the collar interlining. Using a 1 inch wide strip of the basic material (operation 1.b), bind the upper edge of the collar interlining, stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

Using a 1 inch wide strip of polyester or polyester/ cotton/rayon twill or plain weave material (operation 1.g), bind the lower edge of the collar interlining, stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge. The collar eyelet reinforcement pieces shall be caught in the binding stitching.

BSa-1 10-14

c. Center the strip of collar padding (operation 1.f) on the outside of the collar interlining with the ends of the padding sufficiently long to fold over each end of the interlining.

Stitch the padding to the interlining from end to end, 1/8 inch from top and bottom edges of the padding.

SSau-2

d. Lap the raw edge of the collar eyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8 inch on the top inside edge of the collar interlining. Stitch the cover to the interlining 1/4 inch from the raw edge of the cover.

301 LSa-1 10-14

8. Attach scarlet piping to outer ply of collar.

a. Finished appearance: The scarlet piping shall extend the full length of the collar along upper and lower edges of the outer ply. The piping shall be uniformly stitched to the collar without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats, and shall be uniformly worked out to the edges. In the finished coat, the piping shall finish 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide.

b. Seam a 5/8 inch wide strip of scarlet piping to the outer ply 1/8 inch from upper and lower edges.

SSe-2 10-14

c. Turn back the piping and outer ply at upper and lower edges, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond the edge of the outer ply. Topstitch the outer ply uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edges of the piping.

(modified, each edge)

Seam type Stitches

d. Fold the scarlet piping, slightly offsetting the raw edges, and seam as specified in 8b. Turn back edge of the collar and stitch through outer ply 1/16 inch from edge, leaving the folded edge of the slightly offset folded edge of the scarlet piping extending 1/8 inch beyond edge of the outer ply.

and

BSm-2(b)

(modified, each edge)

9. Assemble collar.

a. Finished appearance: The collar shall be assembled without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats. In the finished collar, the ends of the lining shall extend approximately 1/2 inch beyond the right end of the collar, and approximately

2-1/2 inches beyond the left end of the collar for the extension tab. The eyelet covers shall not be caught in the eyelet operation.

b. Position the outer ply of the collar on the outside of the interlining assembly with the binding for the upper edge of the collar interlining extending uniformly 1/8 inch beyond the scarlet piping on the top edge of the outer ply. The binding for the lower edge of the collar interlining shall not be exposed beyond the scarlet piping on the bottom edge of the collar.

c. Seam the outer ply and interlining assembly together with a row of stitches as close as possible to, but not on top of, the topstitching at the top and bottom edges of the outer ply.

SSa-1

d. Lap the top inside edge of the collar assembly over the top raw edge of the collar lining approximately 1/2 inch, with the lining face up. Seam the collar to the lining with a row of stitches as close as possible to, but not on top of, the rows of stitches at the upper edge of the collar. The stitching shall extend from center to center of the collar eyelet covers.

301 LSa-1 10-14

e. Smoothly fold the ends of the collar padding and the outer ply to the inside over the ends of the interlining assembly and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

f. Turn collar lining at the seam to the inside of the collar and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

10. Make collar extension tab.

a. Finished appearance. The collar extension tab shall extend 3/4 to 1 inch beyond the folded edge of the left end of collar.

Seam type Stitches per inch

b. Turn the top and bottom edges and the end of the collar lining at the left end of the collar to the inside of the lining and baste the turned portion along the top, front and bottom edges to the body of the lining, forming the collar extension tab.

Hand

SSc-1 (top

& bottom)

OSf-1

(front)

2-3

c. Stitch the collar extension tab 1/16 inch from the top, front and bottom edges and continue the stitching at the back of tab to top row, forming a 1-3/8 to 1-1/2 inch wide box stitch.

301 SSc-1 (top

& bottom)

OSf-1

(front)

SSa-1

(back)

10-14

11. Fell ends of outer ply to collar and make eyelets.

a. Finished appearance. The upper and lower edges at each end of the outer ply shall not be visible on the outside of the finished collar.

b. Tack the ends of the outer ply to the reinforcement pieces and to the collar eyelet covers with overcast stitching.

c. Make an eyelet through all plies of the collar and lining midway + 1/16 inch between outer edges of the scarlet piping and 1-1/2 + 1/8 inches from each finished end of collar. The finished eyelet opening shall finish 1/8 inch wide.

Eyelet --- 20 per eyelet

(minimum)

12. Make ornamental sleeve pieces.

a. Finished appearance: The ornamental sleeve pieces shall finish smooth and flat and shall be uniform in appearance, and the shape shall be in accordance with the ornamental sleeve piece finished shaper (including piping). The scarlet piping shall be uniformly stitched to the ornamental sleeve pieces without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats, and shall be uniformly worked out to the edges. In the finished coat, the piping shall finish 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide.

b. The ornamental sleeve piece shall consist of one ply of basic material interlined with fusible, and shall be piped with scarlet broadcloth.

c. Seam a 5/8 inch wide strip of scarlet piping to the ornamental sleeve pieces 1/8 inch from the top, the scalloped side, and the bottom edges.

SSe-2(a) 10-14

d. Fold the scarlet piping, slightly offsetting the raw edge and seam to edges as above.

e. Turn back the ornamental sleeve piece and the scarlet piping at the seamed edges, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond the edges of the piece.

(modified)

Seam type Stitches per inch

Notch excess scarlet material at the top and lower points of the piece in order to reduce bulk. Topstitch the ornamental sleeve piece uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping through all plies.

f. Press the ornamental sleeve piece smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

g. Mark the ornamental sleeve piece for location of insignia buttons as indicated by marks on pattern. Assemble the ornamental sleeve pieces in pairs.

h. Punch a hole though the ornamental sleeve piece at each mark for attaching the three buttons.

i. Insert the shanks of the 27-line insignia buttons through the punched holes of each ornamental sleeve piece and reinforcement disc, and secure each button to the ornamental sleeve piece with a metal ring toggle. The reinforcement disc and toggle shall finish on the underside of the ornamental sleeve piece.

13. Assemble sleeves and attach ornamental sleeve pieces.

a. Finished appearance: The ornamental sleeve piece shall be uniformly stitched to the sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats, and shall finish smooth and flat, and shall have no raw edges. The folded front edge of the piece shall not be topstitched.

b. Position the top and under sleeve with notches matching and join at the forearm with a 3/8 inch seam.

301 SSa-1

c. Spread the seam open and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

d. Mark sleeve end for turn-up and mark the top sleeve for positioning of the ornamental sleeve piece according to the ornamental sleeve piece marker.

e. Mark the ornamental sleeve piece on the inside 1/4 inch from raw edge. Position the sleeve piece on the sleeve with marks matching and with bottom edge of sleeve piece even with the mark for bottom turn-up of the sleeve.

f. Seam the ornamental sleeve piece to the sleeve at the mark.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

g. Turn back the ornamental sleeve piece at the seam and stitch as close as possible to, but not on top of, the topstitching at the top and bottom edges, and at the

LSbj-1 10-14

Seam type Stitches per inch scalloped peaks, leaving two openings on the scalloped edge to remove and replace buttons. The ornamental sleeve piece shall finish 5 +1/8 inches long, measured along the folded edge from each folded edge of piping, and 2-1/4

+1/8 inches wide at the center point, measured from the folded edge to the folded edge of the scarlet piping.

h. Join the top and under sleeve at the backarm with a 3/8 inch seam.

i. Spread the seam open and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

j. Turn up the bottom edge of the sleeve at the mark and tack to the seam allowances of the forearm and backarm seams.

Hand or

--- 2-3

k. Press the bottom edge smooth and flat with a heated

14. Make sleeve linings and assemble sleeves.

a. Finished appearance: The sleeve lining shall be positioned and attached to the sleeve without twists, pleats, puckers, or gathers.

b. Position the top and under sleeve linings in accordance with notches on pattern and join at the forearm and backarm, respectively, with a 3/8 inch seam.

301 or

c. Position the sleeve lining on the sleeve with the upper edge of the lining extending 3/4 to 1 inch beyond the armhole edge of the sleeve.

d. Seam or tack lining to sleeve backarm and forearm seam allowance, respectively, commencing at the top of the sleeve fusible and extending up 6 - 7 inches along the backarm and forearm seams.

6-8

e. As an alternate to 14 b-d, when using a sleeve lining felling machine:

(1) Join backarm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining.

The distance between the notches on the forearm shall be left open.

SSa-1 10-14

(2) Position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of forearm sleeve seam and top of the backarm sleeve seam.

(3) Tack the forearm seam and backarm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and backarm seam, respectively.

The backarm seam tacking shall extend from approximately

SSa-1 2-3

4-8

Seam type Stitches per inch the midpoint of the backarm seam to not more than 6 inches above creased bottom edge. The forearm seam tacking shall be for a distance of 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

f. Pull sleeve through sleeve lining.

15. Fell turn-up of sleeve linings.

a. Finished appearance: The sleeve lining shall not be short, tight, or twisted at the bottom of sleeves.

b. Turn under the bottom edge of sleeve lining to finish approximately 1 inch above the finished end of the sleeve.

Fell the folded edge of sleeve lining to the turn-up of the sleeve with blindstitching.

EFc-1 6-8

8-10

c. As an option, the bottom edge of the sleeve may be basted to the turn-up prior to felling (15b).

d. Turn sleeves and assemble in pairs.

16. Fold and stitch lower front darts in front linings.

a. Finished appearance. The dart shall finish without gathers, puckers or pleats. The dart shall be tapered to a point at the upper end.

b. Sew the lower front dart with a 3/8 inch seam, tapering the dart to a point at the upper end, and securely backtack.

c. Overedge each edge of the lower dart, tapering off not more than 1 inch from the inner end.

504 or

EFd-1

8-10

d. As an alternate to operations b and c, the dart may be stitched and overedged together in one operation. The thread chains shall be run off at the top of the dart a minimum of 1 inch.

515, 516, 517, 518, or 519

SSa-2

17. Assemble linings.

a. Overedge all edges of each front, side back, and right and left back lining parts (including the vent edge), excluding the bottom hem, armhole, shoulder and neckline.

b. Matching notches, join the right and left back linings along the center back seam with a 3/8 inch seam, stopping at the top of the vent; join the side back linings to the right and left back linings with a 3/8 inch seam; and join the front linings to the back assembly at each side seam with a 3/4 inch seam.

Seam type Stitches per inch

c. Press side and side back joining seam open and flat. Press the lower front dart towards the side.

d. Hem the bottom edge of the linings, with the raw edge turned under and caught in the stitching 1/16 inch from the folded upper edge of hem. The hem shall finish 1 + 1/8 inch wide. The side and side back joining seams shall remain open and flat, and the lower front dart shall be positioned towards the side.

301 EFb-1

e. Fold back lining at the center back seam to form a 1/2 inch wide pleat at the center back. The folded edge of the pleat shall face the left side of coat (as worn.) As an option, the pleat may be stitched across the top of the pleat at the neckline.

f. Press the pleat smooth and flat from the neckline to the vent area with a heated pressing iron.

18. Overedge body panels and facings.

a. Overedge all edges of the right and left fronts, side fronts, side front darts, side backs, and right and left backs, excluding the bottom edge, armhole, shoulder, and neckline.

Overedge the back edge of the facings.

8 - 10

19. Attach front facings to linings and sew on label.

a. Finished appearance. The lining shall be carefully seamed to the facing so that in the finished coat, the lining shall be smooth and flat along the facing without creases, bulges, overlapping of excess material or other defect or distortion.

b. Position the lining on the facing, with notches matching, and seam the front edge of the lining to the back edge of the facing 3/8 inch from the edge. The stitching shall extend from the top (shoulder) edge of facing to the bottom hemmed edge of the lining.

c. Press the facing/lining joining seam with the seam allowance toward the side.

d. Sew the identification/instruction label to the left front facing with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from each edge of the label. The label shall be positioned horizontally with one end adjacent to the facing/lining seam and the lower edge of the label approximately 2-1/2 inches up from bottom piped edge of coat.

20. Make armhole shields.

a. Finished appearance: The armhole shields shall finish

Seam type Stitches per inch without puckers, gathers, or raw edges. The basic material and both edges of the binding shall be securely caught in the binding stitching.

b. Bind the rounded edge of armhole shield with bias binding (3.3.10), turning under the outer or both raw edges of the binding, and catching the turned under portion(s) in the stitching, 1/16 inch from folded edge(s).

301 BSc-1 or

BSb-1

10-14

21. Join backs.

a. Finished appearance: The side and center back shall be joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The folded edge of the left vent shall be in vertical line with the center back seam. The left center back shall overlap the right center back not less than 2-3/4 inches and the left vent shall measure 2 + 1/8 inches wide, when measured at bottom edge of coat.

b. Positon the center back edges even and join with a 5/8 inch seam from the top edge of the backs to approximately

3/4 inch below top end of the vent. From that point, continue to stitch diagonally across the top end of the vent, stopping 3/8 inch from the end.

c. Turn the left vent to the inside of the left center back in accordance with the notches and edgestitch 1/8 inch from the folded edge. The folded edge of vent shall be in line with the center back seam line.

OSf-1

d.