Army Coat Mens Blue GLPD0708C.pdf

INCH POUND

GL/PD 07-08C

4 March 2009

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COATS, MEN’S; POLYESTER/WOOL,

ARMY BLUE 450, FUSIBLE

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a men’s polyester/wool serge coat intended for wear by male personnel of the Department of the Army.

1.2 Classification. The coat will be in the following types, sizes and lengths:

Type I - Classic Fit Type II - Athletic Fit

Class 1 - Polyester/Wool Serge, Army Blue 450 Class 2 - Polyester/Wool Tropical, Army Blue 450 Class 3 - Wool, Elastique, Army Blue 150

Schedule of sizes – Type I

X-Short -- -- -- 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Short -- -- -- 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 -- 46 -- 48 -- -- -- --

Regular 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 -- 46 -- 48 -- 50 -- 52 Long -- -- 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 -- 46 -- 48 -- 50 -- 52

X-Long -- -- -- -- -- -- 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 -- 46 -- 48 -- 50 -- 52

Schedule of sizes – Type II

Regular -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40 41 42 43 44 -- 46 -- 48 -- 50 -- 52 Long -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40 41 42 43 44 -- 46 -- 48 -- 50 -- 52

X-Long -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40 41 42 43 44 -- 46 -- 48 -- 50 -- 52

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

FSC 8405

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all the specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-DTL-823 - Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-3738 - Cloth, Elastique, Wool MIL-B-13466 - Braid, Textile and Lace, Vellum, Woven, Textile (for Blue Uniform) MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts MIL-DTL-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

MILITARY STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men’s, Dress

(Copies of these documents are available on-line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL ACQUISITION REGULATIONS (FAR)

52.209-4 - First Article Approval – Government Testing

(Copies are available on-line at http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contacting the Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness of Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16 - Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.aatcc.org or American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27705-2215.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 747 - Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam ASTM D 1776 - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available on-line from http://www.astm.org or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ http://acquisition.gov/far/index.html http://www.aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY CONTROL (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on-line from http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (4th edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057-1060, 2001

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable material. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials are used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The design is a four-button, single-breasted coat with peak lapels, front and underarm darts, two-piece back with vent, two top-pleated patch pockets with flaps and two lower inside hanging pockets with flaps. The shoulder loops for the coat shall have rounded edges at edge nearest the collar and have gold cord edge braid attached. The inside of the coat shall be 3/8 lined with yoke back, fully lined sleeves, and one inside breast pocket (see Figure 1). The coats shall have gold sleeve ornamentation included in the pocket for attachment to the sleeves. The sleeves and sleeve linings shall be left unfinished at bottom, but shall be turned up and tacked at notches.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material.

3.4.1.1 Class 1. The basic material for the Class 1 coat shall conform to Type III, Class 4 of MIL-DTL-823, except the weight shall be 9.5 – 10.5 oz/linear yd. The color shall be Army Blue 450.

http://www.asq.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3.4.1.2 Class 2 (MDW). The basic material for the Class 2 coat shall conform to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-DTL-21115. The weight shall be 10.0 ounces and the color shall be Army Blue 450.

3.4.1.3 Class 3 (MDW). The basic material for the Class 3 coat shall conform to Type III of MIL-C-3738. The weight shall be 16 ounces and the color shall be Army Blue 150.

3.4.2 Lining. The material for the lining shall be a polyester twill cloth conforming to Class 3 of A-A-52106. The color of the lining material shall be black.

3.4.3 Binding. The binding for the coat shall be cut on the bias of the same material as the coat lining (see 3.4.2). The width of the bias binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch. The binding may be placed on rolls.

3.4.4 Fusible interlinings.

3.4.4.1 Small parts fusible interlining. The lapels, front facing, pocket flaps, top sleeve, under sleeve, top collar, lapel notch reinforcement, and shoulder loops, all known as “small parts” shall use a charcoal, nonwoven fusible interlining. It shall conform to either type V or VI, Class 1, Style A or B; or Type VIII, Class 1, Style A, of MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4.2 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat and side body fronts shall be a black or charcoal, napped, woven twill material conforming to Type II, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296. As an alternate, Style No. T3G weft inserted knit may be used.

3.4.4.3 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for pre-production and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.3.2, and a minimum of 24 ounces or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.3.3.3. As an option, the bonding strength may be conducted up to two hours after the initial fusing takes place.

3.4.4.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show colorfastness to dry-cleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4.5 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.4.4.6, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in 4.3.3.3. Additionally, the interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.4.4.6 shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as specified in 4.3.3.3. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.4.4.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press, which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturer’s recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Under no circumstances shall the dry heat temperature of the fusing press exceed 315oF. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on Figure 6.

3.4.5 Pocketing and lining cloth. The material for the inside breast pocket, lower hanging pockets, armholes, shoulder, and pocket stays shall be polyester and cotton cloth matching the shade of the basic material or dyed black, conforming to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except that the nonfibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply.

3.4.6 Undercollar material. The material shall be a wool blend felt fabric conforming to MIL-C-29137, or a 100 percent polyester needle-punched nonwoven material weighing between 8.0 to 10.0 oz./sq. yd. with a thickness between 0.070 to 0.095 inch at 0.6 psi (pounds per square inch), and exhibiting a cross-machine direction stiffness of 0.050 load pounds (minimum) when tested in accordance with ASTM D747 (see 3.4.6.1). The color shall be black.

3.4.6.1 Undercollar material stiffness. Stiffness (bending moment) shall be conducted in accordance with ASTM D 747 except as follows:

a. Unless otherwise specified, the testing conditions shall be in accordance with ASTM D-1776.

b. The test specimen shall be a rectangle of cloth of dimensions two (2) by one (1) inches with the long dimension parallel to the fabric direction under test, warp or filling, as applicable.

c. The load scale reading shall be recorded only at the specimen angular deflection of 60 degrees.

d. The stiffness is the bending moment of specimen at a deflection angle of 60 degrees and shall be calculated to three significant figures as follows:

Bending moment, in. - lb. = Load scale reading x moment weight*

* Testing machine of Tinius Olsen Testing Machine Co.

3.4.7 Components.

3.4.7.1 Chest piece. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to Type XVIII of

MIL-C-15065.

3.4.7.2 Braids.

3.4.7.2.1 Hanger loop. The braid for the hanger loop shall be a cotton tubular braid, flat, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, conforming to Type III, Class 1 of MIL-B-371. The color shall be black and the finished braid shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning equal to or better than 3-4 according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 and shall show colorfastness to crocking equal to or better than 3.5 according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

3.4.7.2.2 Cord edge braid. The shoulder loops shall be edged in goldenlite color nylon cord edge braid, 3/32 inch wide conforming to Type I, Class 2 of MIL-B-13466.

3.4.7.2.3 Sleeve ornamentation. The sleeve ornamentation braid shall be a 1/8 inch wide soutache braid, goldenlite color nylon conforming to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-B-13466. The length of each piece of soutache, to be placed in the inside pocket, shall be 36 + 1/2 inches. This piece shall be used for both sleeves.

3.4.7.3 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064.

As an alternate, the shoulder pad shall conform to the following requirements:

The shoulder pads shall have a top and bottom cover of 4 ounces psi white, needlepunched polyester felt when tested in accordance with ASTM D 3776, Option C. The filler shall be cotton, one piece shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. Multiple pieces are not acceptable. The top cover shall be notched for shoulder seam alignment 4-1/4 inches from the front of the pad. The pad shall be sewn in a concave shoulder fitting form utilizing multilane of basting, totaling 6 rows. The pad shall have a compressed finished thickness measuring 1/2 + 1/8 inch using a one-inch foot at 0.1 psi. The finished pad shall measure 9-3/4 to 10-3/4 inches in length, and 5-3/8 to 5-5/8 inches in width, with a 1/2 inch armhole cutout on each side. The pads shall not be significantly altered in thickness, shape, or dimension after being commercially drycleaned 3 times with an environmentally acceptable solution. The pad shall have a minimum breaking strength of 6.0 pounds in the machine direction and a minimum of 3.0 pounds in the cross direction when tested in accordance with ASTM D-5034, Option G-T or G-E.

3.4.7.4 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064, except that the length shall be 16 to 16-1/2 inches for sizes 36-48 and 18 to 18-1/2 for sizes 50 and above. As an alternate, a continuous (on a roll) cut to required length sleeve-head may be used.

3.4.7.5 Stay tapes.. The tapes for the bridle at the breakline of the coat and for staying the armhole shall be preshrunk cotton conforming to Type I, Class 1 or 2 (dyed black) of A-A-52071, except that the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. The tapes shall be 5/8 inch wide for bridle at breakline of coat and 1/4 inch wide for staying armhole. The 5/8 inch bridle tape may be dyed black, conforming to Class 3, and shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspiration equal to or better than 3-4 according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 and shall show colorfastness to crocking equal to or better than 3.5 according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, when tested as specified in 4.3.1. The tape for staying the front edges of the coat shall be cross-cut, 1/2 inch wide, made from natural, or dyed black polyester and cotton cloth conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106, except that the nonfibrous material content shall not apply. The raw edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. As an alternate, a fusible tape, as specified in 3.4.7.6 may be used.

3.4.7.6 Fusible edge tape. The fusible edge tape shall be Type 1, Style B, Class 1, dyed black or charcoal, conforming to MIL-C-44296, except it shall be cut in the filling (cross cut) direction at a width of 5/8 + 1/32 inch. The edges shall be sewn together using an LSa-1 seam, 304 stitch (as specified in ASTM D 6193) at 12 to 16 stitches per inch with 70/2 thread conforming to A-A- 50199. All sewn edges shall be within fusible dot area such that the adhesive will not exhibit any breaks or blank areas on either side of the joining seam.

3.4.7.7 Thread.

3.4.7.7.1 Thread, polyester core, cotton- or polyester covered. The cotton or polyester covered polyester core thread shall conform to A-A-50199 with the colors as specified in 3.4.7.7.5, matching the standard sample. The thread sizes and manufacturing uses are as follows:

Use Ticket No. Ply Seaming and stitching of coat 30 (Tex 61-70) 2 or 3 50 (Tex 36-45) 2 70 (Tex 31-35) 2 Blindstitching, overedging, and machine felling (except when the use of silk or alternate nylon is indicated in Table II) 70 (Tex 31-35) 2 Button sewing, hand 30 (Tex 61-70) 2 or 3 Button sewing, machine (except automatic sew 2 or 3 and shank type, see 3.4.7.8) 30 (Tex 61-70) Sleeve braid soutache 50 (Tex 36-45) 2 or 3 Tacking armhole and attaching sleeve-heads 30 (Tex 61-70) 2 or 3

3.4.7.7.2 Thread, silk. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 in the types, sizes, and manufacturing uses as follows. The colors shall be as specified in 3.4.7.7.5. The requirements prohibiting weighting and loading materials shall not apply for Type III thread.

Use Thread type Size Class Machine made buttonholes Machine twist B or C (Tex 45 or 60) --- Handmade buttonholes Buttonhole twist, tailors 10 (Tex 135) 1 Hand felling Hand sewing A or C (Tex 40 or 60) --- Machine-type felling Hand sewing A (Tex 40) ---

3.4.7.7.3 Thread, nylon. The nylon thread may be used as an alternate to the silk thread as specified in 3.4.7.7.2. The nylon thread may also be used for padding lapels and collar. The color shall be as specified in 3.4.7.7.5. The nylon thread shall conform to the following types, sizes and classes of V-T-295 (see 6.5).

Use Thread type Size Class Hand or machine-type IV (Hand sewing twist, A and C (Tex 36 and 45) A felling waxed finish) Making buttonholes and V (Buttonhole twist, hand- 10 (Tex 132) A bartacks sewing, waxed) Machine stitching VI (Tailoring, twisted B, F and O A multiple cord, soft finish) (Tex 40, 97 and 24) Button sewing, machine I, II, or III (twisted multiple 5 (Tex 381, 426 A cord: soft finish, bonded or 431) finish, or monocord, bonded finish)

3.4.7.7.4 Thread, basting. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade, bleached or unbleached cotton thread. As an alternate, the cotton-covered, polyester core thread used for seaming and stitching or the nylon thread used in hand or machine type felling may be used for those operations where the thread is required to be removed, providing the coat is subsequently given a treatment by a drycleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When the soluble thread is used, any residue remaining in the coat after the drycleaning process shall be brushed off or removed (see 6.9).

3.4.7.7.5 Color. The color of the polyester-core, silk, or nylon threads shall match the standard sample for Black AA (C.A. 66043), except the thread for stitching the soutache braid to the sleeve shall match the goldenlite shade. The thread for tacking the armholes and attaching the sleeve-head and pads shall be white.

3.4.7.7.6 Colorfastness. All dyed threads shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration and drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

3.4.7.8 Automatic button sewing. If an automatic machine, which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is utilized, the thread shall be nylon, waxed monocord, Special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 15 pounds and a minimum length per unit weight of 3600 yards per pound when tested for those requirements and for colorfastness (see 3.4.7.7.6).

3.4.7.9 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, soft finish or glazed finish, Size 8 (Tex 210), conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp thread shall match the standard sample for Black Shade AA. The dyed gimp shall show colorfastness to drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

3.4.7.10 Buttons

3.4.7.10.1 Uniform. The buttons for the front shall be 36-line, hopper back and for the pockets and shoulder loops shall be a 25-line, hopper back, conforming to Type I, Style 2, 22K Gold, Classes A or B of MIL-B-3461.

3.4.7.10.2 Toggles. Split or ring-type toggles shall be used to fasten buttons to the breast pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps and shall conform to MIL-B-3461.

3.4.8 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification and instruction label, a size label, a barcode label/tag and a cardboard instruction folder.

3.4.8.1 Combination identification and instruction label. The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to Type VI of MIL-DTL-32075. As an alternate to the material specified in MIL-DTL-32075, the label material may be a 100% polyester coated tape conforming to Avery Dennison's Style # 4800WT or Style # 4822WT (see 6.11). The letters for the caption shall be not less than 3/16 inch in height, and all other lettering shall be not less than 1/8 inch in height. The labels shall show colorfastness to drycleaning equal to or better than “3-4” according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 when tested as specified in 4.3.1. The contents of the class 1 label shall be as follows:

The combination identification and instruction label for Class 1 shall include the following information.

COAT, MEN’S; POLYESTER/WOOL, ARMY BLUE 450, FUSIBLE

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY.

2. Use a damp cloth for outside pressing.

3. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be

325o + 5o F on wool setting with steam.

4. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

The combination identification and instruction label for Classes 2 and 3 shall include the following information

COAT, MEN’S, ARMY BLUE (MDW)

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY.

2. Use a damp cloth for outside pressing.

3. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be

325o + 5oF on wool setting with steam.

4. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.4.8.2 Size labels. Each coat shall have a white, nonwoven acrylic coated, commercial type size label which shall be stitched to the inside center back at the neck seam (see Table II, Operation 16.j.). After the size designation for the Type I coat add a “C” for classic fit or for the Type II coat add an “A” for athletic fit. The end of the stitching need not be tacked providing the stitching extends at least 1/2 inch beyond each end of the label. The stitching shall not be through the printing. Each coat shall have a separate size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2, of MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall indicate size and National Stock Number (NSN) as follows:

SIZE : 44XLC (EXAMPLE)

STOCK NO.: 8410-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE)

3.4.8.4 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN).

There shall be a 12 digit universal product code (UPC) assigned for all NSN’s by the Government.

The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.4.8.5 Cardboard instruction folder. The printed cardboard instruction folder, of a commercial type, shall be attached by a string 12 inches in length, looped through a hole 1/4 inch in diameter, and attached to the right breast pocket flap button. The cardboard shall measure 4 + 1/4 inches by 6 +1/4 inches. The text of the instruction folder shall be as shown on Figure 3. The letters for the instructions shall be not less than 1/8 inch in height

3.5 Figures. Figures are furnished solely for guidance and information. Should variations from the written specification appear in the figures, the written specification shall govern.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that the additional notches for using during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this specification. The standard patterns shall provide the following seam allowances:

1/4 inch - Set front facing to front, set back vent, and make pocket flaps 3/16 inch - Turn in for top of back vent and making shoulder loops 5/16 inch - For darts, setting arm shield, set loops 3/8 inch - For armhole seams, shoulder seams, setting sleeves, making pockets, set pocket flaps, make sleeves, set collar, join side body to front, join front facing to front lining, join front lining to side body lining and for all other seams and lining seams, unless otherwise indicated

1/2 inch - For the back lining bottom hem 5/8 inch - Join backs and join side body to back 2-1/4 inches - For the coat sleeve bottom turn up

1-3/4 inches - For the lining sleeve bottom turn up 1-1/4 inches - For the coat bottom hem turn up and the vent lining hem 1-1/2 inches - For the front lining and side body lining bottom hem

Unless otherwise indicated in Table II, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances.

3.6.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the coat shall be cut from materials, as specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in table I:

Table I. List of pattern parts

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts Basic material Left front LFR 1

Right front RFR 1 Back BK 2 Side body SBO 2 Right front facing RFRFAC 1 Left front facing LFRFAC 1 Top collar – die TCO 1 Top collar – block TC BLOCK 1 Top sleeve TSL 2 Under sleeve USL 2 Shoulder loop LOOP 4 Breast patch pocket - die BRPK 2 Breast patch pocket - block BRPKBLK 2 Breast pocket flap – die 1/ BRPKFL-DIE 4 Breast pocket flap – block BRPKFL-BLK 4

Lower pocket flap – die 1/ LWPKFL-DIE 4 Lower pocket flap – block LWPKFL-BLK 4

Lower pocket piping LWPKPIPE 2 Lower pocket facing LWPKFAC 2 Armhole shield AHSHIELD 2

Lining cloth Front lining FRLIN 2 Side body lining SBOLIN 2 Back yoke lining BKLIN 1 Top sleeve lining TSLLIN 2 Inside breast pocket facing INBRPKFAC 2 Inside breast pocket piping INBRPKPIPE 2 Back vent lining VENTLIN 1 Under sleeve lining USLLIN 2

Table I. List of pattern parts (cont’d)

Pocketing and lining Lower pocket LWRPKT 2

Inside breast pocket facing INBRPK 2 Inside breast pocket stay INBRPKSTAY 2 Breast pocket stay BRPKSTAY 2

Haircloth Chest piece – F CANVAS 2 Chest piece - shoulder SHPC 2

Fusible interlining cloth Right front RFRFUS 1 Left front LFRFUS 1 Top sleeve TSLFUS 2 Undersleeve USLFUS 2 Side body SBOFUS 2 Right front facing RFRFACFUS 1 Lower pocket stay LWPKSTAY 2 Shoulder loop LOOPFUS 2 Breast patch pocket BRPKFUS 2 Breast patch pocket flap – die BRPKFLFUSDIE 2 Breast patch pocket flap - block BRPKFLFUSBLK 2 Lower pocket flap - die LWPKFLFUSDIE 2 Lower pocket flap – block LWPKFLFUSBLK 2 Left front facing LFRFACFUS 1 Top collar fusible TCOFUS 1 Inside breast pocket piping INBRPKPIPFUS 2 Lower pocket piping LWPKPIPFUS 2 Lapel peak reinforcement LAPELFUS 2

Press wool felt Chest piece FELT 2

Undercollar cloth (felt) Undercollar – block UCO BLK 1 Undercollar – die UCO 1

Shapers Lapel shaper (working) WLAPELSHP Finished lapel shaper FLAPELSHP Undercollar stand shaper UCOSTDSHP

Finish shaper Lower pocket flap (30-33) FNLWPTFL3033 Lower pocket flap (34-37) FNLWPTFL3437 Lower pocket flap (38-43) FNLWPTFL3843

Table I. List of pattern parts (cont’d)

Finish shaper (cont’d) Lower pocket flap (44-52) FNLWPTFL4452

Breast pocket flap (30-31) FNBRPTFL3031 Breast pocket flap (32-34) FNBRPTFL3234 Breast pocket flap (35-37) FNBRPTFL3537 Breast pocket flap (38-43) FNBRPTFL3843 Breast pocket flap (44-52) FNBRPTFL4452

Test square TEST SQ 1

1/ When cutting the breast pocket flap and lower pocket flap for Class 3 – cut 2 from basic material and cut 2 from lining material.

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. All stitches, seams, and stitching will conform to ASTM D 6193. The type of seam, stitching, and stitches per inch will be as specified in Table II.

When two or more methods of seams or stitch types are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn, so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/16 inch or more shall be considered a defect.

3.7.1.1 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches as specified Table II.

3.7.1.2 Type 301 and 306 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except label, shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label and hand stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or needle thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.7.1.3 Repairs of Type 301 and 306 stitching. Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.7.1.4 Repairs of Type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack or blindstitching in the same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blindstitching. When repairing blindstitching, superimpose stitching 1/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.7.1.5 Repairs of Type 401, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.7.1.3.a. and 3.7.1.3.b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.

Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching type 301.

3.7.1.6 Thread breaks and ends of seams. End of all seams and stitchings (except darts), when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of the continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels, where the overlap shall be not less than three stitches. The ends of the hand felling shall be tacked with not less than three stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. The thread ends of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2 inch.

3.7.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be the eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, worked over gimp with the ends of gimp pulled through to underside. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be tacked by hand or machine the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching and the gimp. The finished size of the buttonhole cut is specified in Table II. The pocket flap buttonholes shall only be cut on the eyelet portion of the buttonhole and the gimp shall be caught in the bar. Toggles shall be used to attach a button to the pocket flaps (see Table II, Operation 45.b). All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the bartack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric, prior to stitching the buttonholes, is prohibited.

3.7.3 Fusible interlinings pressed on a fusing press. A single layer fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time and temperature for a minimum of eight hours. Pair or sandwich fusing that can create differential shrinkage; stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on the chart as shown on Figure 6.

3.7.4 Bartacks. Bartacks shall measure 1/4 to 3/8 inch long, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.7.5 Marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew on type tickets.

c. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided that the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment, and wherever possible is covered by the seam allowance.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table II. Unless otherwise specified in Table II, the contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished coat is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this specification. Any additional basting or holding stitching, to facilitate manufacture, is permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished coat.

3.8.1 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table II shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for those coats. Any additional under-pressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Fusibles shall be applied in accordance with the fusible manufacturer’s recommended time, temperature, and pressure settings.

3.8.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table II, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified, and the finished components conforms to the required configuration. When a Government furnished shaper pattern is forwarded, the component shall conform to the pattern.

3.8.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table II are as follows:

Brtck - Bartack Btn - Button Btnhl - Buttonhole Comrcl- Commercial Dbl - Double Mchne - Machine Smlr - Similar

No.

Table II.

Manufacturing Operations Requirements

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/ Looper

1.

2.

Cut basic material.

a. Spread the material without tension in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric. The cut parts from the top and bottom ply shall match and correspond to the pattern.

b. Lay the material in uniform lengths and widths. The plies shall not be stretched, pulled or full, and one side of the lay shall be even. Mark each component part in the top of the main lay with the size of the coat.

c. Cut the coat in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show directional lines, size, shape, placement of pockets and flaps, and notches for proper assembly of parts. The use of drill holes for pocket, dart and flap locations are prohibited.

d. Cut all basic material parts of each coat out of the same piece of material, except flap linings, armhole shields and lower pocket piping pieces that may be cut from ends, cutting the piping pieces in the warp direction. When armhole shields are cut from ends, the shields shall match each other. The pocket flap linings and shoulder loops may be cut in either the warp or filling directions. Cut front darts as indicated on the pattern.

e. For Class 3 coats under flap shall be cut from lining material (see 3.4.2).

f. The left front shall be dressed in the front shaping operation after the bottoms are shaped as defined in Operation 21.d.

Cut lining.

a. Cut lining for the body of the coat, sleeves, yoke lining, vent lining, Table II. (cont’d)

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

2.

3.

4.

Cut lining. (cont’d) and right inside breast pocket facing in the direction of the warp, and in strict accordance with the patterns furnished. The sleeve linings may be cut from the ends. Cut binding on a 45o bias, 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide, to desired finished length.

b. When sleeve linings are cut from the ends, the parts shall approximately match the shade of the body lining and the sleeves shall match each other.

Cut trimmings.

a. Cut fusible interlinings in the same direction as the parts to be fused.

b. Cut pocketing and lining cloth for armhole and shoulder stays on the bias. Cut pocketing and lining cloth for inside breast pocket, flap and breast pocket stays, and lower hanging pockets in the direction of the warp.

c. Cut wool flannel undercollar cloth on the bias, or cut alternate felt fabrics composite undercollar cloth as indicated by directional lines on the patterns.

Replacement of damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to ensure that material defects and damages, as classified in MIL-STD-1490, are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

5.

6.

Shade markings.

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings, whether cut from the ends or in the main lay, shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from the ends need not be shade marked. Any method may be used except as indicated in 3.7.5.

b. Identify the test swatches of basic material and fusible interlining that represent every 1000 coat units of production.

Fusing.

a. Superimpose the small parts fusible peak reinforcement piece on the fronts fusible interlining and fuse both pieces together to the front as indicated on Figure 9. Fuse side body front armhole interlining with the armhole edge set back 1/8 inch and 3/8 inch from edge of side body to front joining seam.

b. Fuse small parts fusible interlining piece to top and undersleeve with bottom edge of the fusible interlining 1/8 inch from the bottom edge of sleeves, and centered.

c. Fuse small parts fusible to the top collar. Position top collar interlining centered on the top collar with the interlining center top edge positioned 1 inch from the top collar edge, and as indicated on the pattern.

d. Fuse small parts fusible to the flaps even with the top edge, with the other remaining edges set back 1/16 inch.

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

6.

7.

Fusing. (cont’d)

e. Fuse small parts fusible to the breast patches with the side and bottom edges of the interlining set back 1/4 inch.

NOTE: To be accomplished solely after Operation 10.a. or 10.b.

f. Fuse small parts fusible to the shoulder loops as indicated on the pattern.

g. Fuse small parts fusible to the left and right facings with the top of the fusible interlining even with the top of the shell.

h. Fuse small parts and fronts fusible test swatches.

i. Fuse a 1 inch wide bias cut small parts fusible strip to each center back neckline.

NOTE: Fused lots and test swatches shall be allowed to cool to the touch prior to bundle tying or testing.

Make darts and join side body fronts to fronts.

a. Seam the vertical cut darts of the fronts.

b. Press dart seams open and flat, holding front waist dart short, and front of coat straight.

c. Join side body fronts to fronts, matching notches with a 3/8 inch seam. Press the seam open and flat.

SSa-1

10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

8.

Make shoulder loops.

Finished appearance . The loop shall be made with two pieces (top and bottom) of basic material using goldenlite color nylon cord edge braid as ornamentation. The shoulder loop shall finish 2-1/4 inches wide at the outside shoulder edge and 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inches wide at the end closest to the inside collar edge and shall be piped all around with goldenlite color nylon edge braid (see 3.4.7.2.2). The braid shall be inserted in the joining seams so that only the goldenlite nylon cord shall be visible completely around each loop when finished. The loop shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size. The end of the loop nearest the collar shall have a rounded end to facilitate the sewing of the cord edge braid to the bottom and top plies of the loop. The goldenlite nylon cord edge braid shall show and shall not be covered by the collar when the coat is finished and pressed.

a. Sew binding onto shoulder loop catching interlining.

b. Join top piece onto the bottom so that the interlining will finish inside the loop and also support the buttonhole.

c. Trim, turn and topstitch edges of the shoulder loop 1/16 inch from the folded edge of basic fabric.

d. Press loop.

SSav-2(a) (with cord edge braid)

SSav-2(b)

SSax-2(b)

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

8.

9.

Make shoulder loops. (cont’d)

e. Make an eyelet end buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be centered on the narrow end of each loop. The inside edge of the buttonhole shall be 5/8 inch from the finished cord edge of the shoulder loop. The cut of the finished buttonhole after tacking shall measure not less than 5/8 inch nor more than 3/4 inch.

Make breast and lower pocket flaps.

Finished appearance. The pocket flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The flaps shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished pocket flap shaper. The seamed edges and corners of the flaps shall be well worked out and the lining shall not be visible on the outside of the flaps. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, properly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the basic material.

a. Seam lining to flaps, notch seam allowance on the bottom edge between corners and trim corners. When lining and flaps are trimmed during the sewing operation to 3/16 inch or less. It will not be necessary to notch.

Mchne or

Hand

SSe-2(a)

SSe-2(a)

63-70 per 1 inch btnhl or 70-80 per 1-1/8 inch btnhl or 70-80 per 1-1/8 inch btnhl

C or B nylon

B nylon

10 silk or 10 nylon

50 or 0 silk or

0 nylon 50 or 0 silk or 0

C or B

F nylon

50 or 0 silk or

0 nylon 70 or 0 silk

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

9.

Make breast and lower pocket flaps. (cont’d)

b. Turn and work out edges, points, and corners. Edge baste the flap edges. The lining shall not show on the outside of flaps. Press flaps flat.

c. Make a vertical buttonhole in each flap centered between the side edges and with the inside edge of the eyelet 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the point of flap.

Only the eyelet portion of the buttonhole shall be cut.

d. Tack ends of buttonhole stitching and gimp by hand or by machine stitching with a bartack ( see 3.7.4).

e. Mark sew line on breast pocket flap using the breast pocket flap marker pattern. Mark sew line on lower pocket flap using the lower pocket flap marker pattern.

NOTE: Care shall be exercised so that the material does not stretch when overedging. Overedge stitching has a tendency to stretch the raw edges to the point where the ends may protrude beyond the side of the flaps when stitched to the coat.

f. Trim flaps, then overedge stitch the top raw edges of the flap together 1/8 to 3/16 inch gage.

g. Press breast and lower pocket flaps smooth and flat.

Btnhl

Brtck

42-48 per btnhl

46-50 per btnhl

21 per brtck 6 per tack

6-8

Comrcl

C silk or or B nylon

B silk or or F nylon

B silk or

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

10.

Make two breast patch pockets.

Finished appearance. The patch pockets shall conform to the finished pocket shaper, be uniform in appearance, and lie flat and smooth without twists, puckers or raw edges. The binding shall have no raw edges showing on the outer side and be caught in the fabric, or the top edge of the pocket area may be overedge stitched.

a. Machine-folded construction (when used).

(1) Form a 1-1/2 +1/8 inches wide vertical box pleat on the outside in the center of the pocket by a creasing machine or an automatic pleater to conform to the finished patch pocket pleat shaper.

(2) Blindstitch the abutted edges of the pleat together.

b. Hand-folded construction (when used).

(1) Fold pocket vertically on the outside, matching cut edges of pocket and stitch 1-1/2 + 1/8 inches from the folded edge.

(2) Form a 1-1/2 + 1/8 inches wide vertical box pleat to the outside in the center of the pocket and stitch across the top and bottom of the pleat 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge to conform to finished patch pocket pleat shaper.

(3) Press pleat in center of pocket, flat and smooth.

SSm-1

OSf-1

4-8

12-16

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

10.

11.

Make two breast patch pockets. (cont’d)

c. Fuse interlining to inside of pockets with the top edges even and the side and bottom edges of the fusible not less than 1/4 inch from the edges of the basic fabric.

d. Trim the bottom corners of the pockets.

e. Turn the sides and bottom edges of the pockets and crease to conform to the finished pocket shaper.

f. Put the shaper on the pocket and trim top edge, if necessary.

g. Bind the top edge of pocket. The raw edges of the binding may be turned in and caught within the binding, or the inside of the binding may be a raw edge.

h. The top of the pocket may be overedge stitched.

i. Press pockets smooth and flat.

Make collar.

Finished appearance. The collar shall be uniform in appearance, and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or

502 or 503 or

BSc-1

BSb-1

EFd-1

6-10

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches per Inch

Thread:

Needle

Thread:

Bobbin/

Make collar. (cont’d) raw edges (top and sides). The composite undercollar shall be one piece and the undercollar interlining is not required.

a. Mark and shape the undercollar to conform to the pattern shaper. Cut in accordance with the undercollar shaper, or undercollar may be die-cut to conform to the pattern shaper.

b. Mark the breakline of the undercollar with the undercollar stand marker.

c. Stitch undercollar at the breakline. The stand shall be 1-1/4 + 1/8 inches at the center.

d. Mark the top collar with the pattern shaper.

e. Baste top edge of finished undercollar along straight top edge of top collar matching the notches and distributing…