PD9-01 Ceremonial Jacket - Male- - Final Draft.docx

INCH-POUND

PD9-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

IKE JACKET, MALE, POLYESTER/WOOL

This purchase description is approved for use by Air and Marine Operations (AMO), Office of Field Operations (OFO), and U.S. Border Patrol (USBP) within U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for polyester/wool jacket (Ike style) intended for wear by male personnel of the CBP as part of the Ceremonial / Dress Uniform / Class One. While the design of the jackets is similar across the CBP, personnel from each of the offices listed below will wear a distinctive jacket (see 1.2.1). Design differences exist and are outlined in section 3.

Air and Marine Operations. The AMO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “AMO Male Class One Ceremonial Jacket” (CBPAMO-001).

Office of Field Operations. The OFO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “OFO Male Class One Ike Jacket” (CBPOFO-001) United States Border Patrol. The USBP version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “USBP Male Summer Dress Jacket” (CBPOBP-002).

Classification. The jacket will be available in one type and three color combinations in the following sizes:

Color combination.

Silver Tan with brown contrast and gold AMO buttons for wear by the AMO.

Navy with black contrast and nickel OFO buttons for wear by the OFO.

Green with navy contrast and gold USBP buttons for wear by the USBP.

Sizes. The jacket shall be available in even sizes as follows:

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

PD-9

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DRAFT PD9-01

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.astm.org/.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE HOME + FASHION (Cotton Products) (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/)

Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The twill weave materials for the jacket body and contrast (epaulettes and sleeve detail) shall conform to the requirements in TABLES I-III when tested as specified in TABLE IX, unless otherwise noted.

Lining material. The lining shall meet the requirements of TABLE I-III when tested as specified in TABLE IX, unless otherwise noted.

Pocket material. The pockets on the jacket shall use body fabric.

TABLE I. Material requirements for AMO jacket materials.

Figure 1

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum) Warp (± 3) Fill (± 2)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

2.5 2.5

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

TABLE I. Material requirements for AMO jacket materials. Continued

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

1.5 0.5

1.5% 0.5%

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

4-5

NA

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

3.5

4.5

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

2-3 3-4 3-4

2-3

4-5

TABLE II. Material requirements for OFO jacket materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

10.0 7.5

10.0 7.5

6.0 6.0

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

1.5% 1.0%

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5

4.5 4.5

TABLE II. Material requirements for OFO jacket materials. Continued

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5

TABLE III. Material requirements for USBP jacket materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

11.0 8.5

11.0 8.5

7.5 6.0

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum)

TABLE III. Material requirements for USBP jacket materials. Continued

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

1.0

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Seam Smoothness, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

4-5

4-5

3-4

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4-5

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5

4-5 4-5

3-4 4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

Color.

AMO Class One Ceremonial Jacket color. The color for the AMO jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 16-1107 TC. The color for the contrast shall be Brown PANTONE 19-0712 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 16-1509 TC. The jacket is part of the Men’s Ceremonial uniform and shall match the Class One Male Trouser (CBP 2049).

OFO Men’s Class One Ike Jacket color. The color for the OFO jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 19-4023 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-4005 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 19-4005 TC. The jacket is part of the Men’s Ceremonial uniform and shall match the Men’s Dress Trousers (CBP 2149).

USBP Summer Dress Jacket color. The color for the USBP jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 19-0414 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-4023 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 19-0515 TC. The jacket is part of the Men’s Ceremonial uniform and shall match the Men’s 75/25 Poly/Wool Dress Trouser (CBP 2101).

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the jacket shall match the standard sample or color identified in 3.3.4 when tested as specified in TABLE IX.

Components.

Buttons. The buttons used in the Ceremonial Jacket are specific to each office under US Customs and Border Protection.

AMO Buttons. There shall be four (4) 36-ligne official AMO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOAM-159) with washers and O-rings for the front, four (4) 24-ligne official AMO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOAM-160) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 32-ligne matte black button for the underside of the waistband. Matte black button color shall approximate PANTONE 19-4005 TC, and meet V-B-871 Type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

OFO Buttons. There shall be four (4) 36-ligne official OFO nickel colored shank buttons (CBPOFO-261) with washers and O-rings for the front, four (4) 24-ligne official OFO nickel colored shank buttons (CBPOFO-260) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 32-ligne matte black button for the underside of the waistband. Matte black button color shall approximate PANTONE 19-4005 TC, and meet V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

USBP Buttons. There shall be four (4) 24-ligne official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098) with washers and O-rings for the front, four (4) 24-ligne official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 24-ligne matte black button for the underside of the waistband. Matte black button color shall approximate PANTONE 19-4005 TC, and meet V-B-871, type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

Thread. Thread for seaming coat, (side, back, under and upper arm-sleeve, shoulder and related armhole or other outer shell to outer shell seams) shall be A-A-50199, Type I or Type II, size Tex 46 to 60. All remaining small parts such as (collar, collarstand, shoulder pads, lining seams (lining to lining and lining to outer shell), cuffs, front chest pockets, flaps, inside patch pockets, bottom hem, epaulettes, bi-swing assembly, bartacks, eyelets, bartack ends of open and closed eyelet end buttonholes and double -needle topstitching) can be Tex 36 to 45 as an alternate of same thread type. All buttonholes shall use A-A-50198 Cotton Gimp, glazed finish size Tex 210 and all threads shall match outer shell shade or per contract requirements. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. Thread used for basting shall be A-A-52094, Type II, Tex 60 nominal or as appropriate.

Fusible interfacing. The interfacing for jacket shall be MIL-C-44296, Type III, Style B, Class 1 weft inserted knit fusible between 2.4 to 3.0 ounces per square yard with 18% polyester filament (warp) / 82% viscose rayon (weft insert) blend. Fusible shall be minimum of 175 polyamide fusible dots per square inch and color shall be gray in shade. (see 3.11.1) Felt under collar material. Undercollar material shall meet either MIL-C-29137 base scrim cloth or alternate scrim requirements. The final scrim composite shall be no less than 9 ounces per square yard, with minimum 40% wool with remainder being either rayon or cotton and be felted, scoured, piece dyed, compressed and moth-proofed. Color for the felt shall approximate the outer shell color.

Stretch mesh knit. A stretch mesh material shall be used in the back bi-swing. This piece is not visible in the final jacket, as it is concealed by the lining. Mesh shall be cut 2 inches wide and ends shall extend 1 inch beyond the edges of left and right inside bi-swing fold line of back panels. Place mesh 5-1/2 inches below neck edge. Mesh shall be lock-stitched at center back seam and on edge of folds. Mesh shall not be stretched and shall lay flat after it is stitched to panels (see Figure 2). Knit material is 5.5 ounce per square yard nominal offering 4-way stretch and recovery properties and shall be black.

Twill tape. Cotton twill tape shall be A-A-52071, Type I, 1/4 inch width used for bi-swing pleats and on the back armhole seam.

Padding material. Padding for shoulder shall be MIL-P-15064, Type I, Man's, Class I Army. Finished pad shall measure 4 3/4 (±1/4) inches at point of widest dimension and 10 (±1/4) inches straight across the bottom, 14 (+1 / -1/2) inches with a thickness of 1/2 (±1/8) inches thick at vertical center at 0.1 pounds per square inch with one-inch anvil. Padding for sleeve head shall be MIL-P-15064, Type IV, Man's, Class I Army. Sleeve-heads shall be commercially available polyester-needle punch weighing 3 ounces per square yard nominal at thickness of 0.050 inches minimum. Use unbleached A-A-52094, Type I or II, size Tex 60 cotton thread for stitching and seaming of pads and sleeve heads.

Snaps. USBP models use MIL-DTL-10884, Style 3, Brass, Black oxidized (dull), 16 Ligne (3/8 inch). Stud assembly on pocket flap through lining, Socket assembly through pocket outer shell and inside lining. Snap fastener model: YKK 16/H brass Snapet, DK7-0000-359 or equal.

Emblem patches. There shall be official emblem patches applied to the left and right sleeves of the jacket. The sleeve emblems shall be attached to the body material only. The thread used for attachment shall match the merrowed edge thread color on the emblem The appropriate AMO or OFO keystone emblem (CBPCBP-078 or CBPOFO-082) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 1-1/2 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The appropriate AMO or OFO round office emblem (CBPOAM-199 or CBPOFO-160) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 1-1/2 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

USBP jacket patches. The USBP keystone emblem (CBPOBP-103) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 3/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The USBP round emblem (CBPOBP-104) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 3/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

Design. The jacket shall be the Ike Jacket style (Figures 3 through 6). It shall be single breasted and waist length, with a peak lapel collar and a bi-swing back. It shall fasten with four button/buttonhole closures. All buttonholes shall be in accordance with ASTM 6193. It shall have box-X-stitched epaulettes and two breast pockets with scalloped flaps located on each front panel. The jacket shall be fully lined.

Body detail. (see Figures 3 through 5) The front shall fasten with four button/buttonhole closures. The buttons shall be secured through eyelet-end, straight finish style buttonholes. There shall be a button (flat 4-hole) permanently sewn to the jacket inside waistband so that the stitching is not visible on the outside of the jacket. The jacket shall fasten left over right. There shall be four (4) stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) on right front following markings on pattern, with the center of each eyelet located 1 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge. There shall be four (4) horizontal buttonholes on left front following markings on pattern with the edge of the eyelet stitching located 5/8 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge of the front closure. Shank buttons and plain button shall properly engage to buttonholes so that jacket lies flat without bulging. There shall be (1) one horizontal buttonhole centered on the waistband, with the inside edge of the eyelet 3/4 (±1/8) from the end. There shall be two pleated style pockets with scalloped flaps located on each front panel. The back shall be a two-piece, pleated bi-swing style. There shall be a seam down the center of the back.

Inside detail. (see Figure 6) The inside front panels shall have facings constructed from body material. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. There shall be an opening in the lining-to-facing seam on the right side for button removal. There shall be a single chest welt pocket on each inside front panel. The welts shall be constructed out of body material. The pocket openings shall measure approximately 5 inches wide by 7 inches deep. The pocket bags shall be constructed of body material and shall be reinforced at the bottom. Underarm shields shall be bound with lining material, attached to each underarm and stitched down all around. There shall be a hanger loop formed by creating a loop of Braid (MIL-B-371, Type II) with a 1-1/2-inch finished opening, located at center back. The loop shall be inserted into the lining to neck seam and bartacked. The center back shall have a pleat. The pleat shall be stitched closed 1-1/2 inches and the pleat shall measure approximately 1 inch deep at the upper end and shall taper to nothing in accordance with the patterns.

Pockets. (see Figure 7) There shall be two pleated breast pockets with scalloped flaps located on each front panel. The pockets shall be constructed out of body material with fused interfacing and lined with lining material. The pockets shall have a center pleat that measures approximately 1-3/8 (±1/8) inches wide. The bottom corners of each pocket shall be rounded. The top edge of each pocket shall be bound with lining material. The pocket exterior measurements shall be 5 (±1/8) inches wide by 6 (±1/8) inches tall. The flaps shall be constructed out of body material and lined with lining material. The flap exterior measurements shall be 5-1/4 (±1/8) inches wide by 2-7/8 (±1/8) inches tall at the edges 3 inches tall at the center, and 2-3/4 (±1/8) inches tall at the shortest point (between center point and edges) and in accordance with pattern shapers. There shall be a single 1-inch, no-eye closed lapel-style buttonhole on each pocket flap. Buttonholes shall be vertical, centered between the finished side edges on each flap and with the bottom edge of the buttonhole stitching 5/8 (±1/8) from the point of the flap. Only cut or drill the eyelet if necessary. There shall be an official shank style removable button in a size, style and color in accordance with 3.4.1, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings. Each side of the flaps on the AMO and OFO Jackets shall be stitched down over the outside row of topstitching to the jacket so they cannot be turned up.

USBP chest pockets. (see Figure 8) The pockets on the USBP Summer Dress Jacket shall follow 3.6.3, with the exception of the pocket flap construction. Pocket shall have two (2) female stud snaps located on the upper edge of each pocket (see Figure 4) to correspond with the male portions on the pocket flaps. Snaps shall properly engage so that flaps lie flat, without causing bunching, puckering or twisting.

USBP chest pocket flaps. (see Figure 8) There shall be two male stud snaps approximately 7/16 inch in diameter on each chest pocket flap lining. They shall be spaced approximately 3-3/8 inches apart, center to center. The center of each snap shall be placed approximately 1 inch from the bottom edge and 1 inch away from the side edges (see Figures 4 and 8). The flaps shall be stitched, turned, and double-needle top-stitched around three edges; each shorter end and the lower scalloped edge with no raw edges showing. The double-needle top-stitching shall be spaced approximately 1/4 inch apart.

Collar. The collar and collarstand shall be constructed from body material and shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. The collar shall be attached to the collarstand and shall have a finished measurement of 3-3/8 inches long at the center back. The collar points shall measure approximately 1-1/2 inches long. The under collar shall be constructed from felt under collar material (see 3.4.4). The peak of the lapel shall measure approximately 2-1/4 inches long, thus measuring approximately 3/4 inch longer than the collar point. The open notch between the collar point and the lapel shall measure approximately 1/8 inch. The lapel shall break approximately 1 inch above the top button. At the widest point the lapel shall measure approximately 3-3/4 inches wide.

Waistband. The bottom of the jacket shall have a waistband. The band shall be a two-piece style. It shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. The band shall have a single, button/buttonhole closure that closes left over right, so that the button does not show when closed. There shall be button (see 3.4.1), located on the underside of the left front. It shall fasten to a corresponding keyhole buttonhole located on the right front. There shall be a seam in the waistband located at center back. The seam shall line up with the center back seam of the joined back panels. The finished waistband shall measure approximately 2-1/4 inches wide.

Sleeves. The sleeves shall be two-piece style with a 1-7/8-inch header. There shall be a cuff overlay of contrast material sewn, and in accordance with the patterns, on top of the sleeve panel body material at the bottom of each sleeve. They shall measure approximately 5-1/2 inches at the center peak and approximately 4 inches at each seam. Only the lower half of each sleeve and the cuff overlay shall have fused interlining attached, and in accordance with the patterns.

Epaulettes. (see Figure 9) Epaulettes shall be constructed using the appropriate contrast material. There shall be non-functional epaulettes, constructed from two layers of contrast material, centered over each shoulder seam. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. Epaulettes shall be inserted into the armhole seam. They shall be box X-stitched at the armhole end and tacked down at the neck end. The epaulettes shall taper, measuring approximately 2 inches at the armhole edge and approximately 1-3/4 inch at the neck edge. The length of the epaulette shall be dependent on the shoulder seam length and shall grade as the jacket increases/decreases in size. The neck edge of the epaulette shall lie flush with the neck to collar seam. There shall be a single 1 inch no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design, on each epaulette. Buttonhole shall be sewn horizontal, centered between the long edges with the bottom edge of the eyelet 1-1/4 (±1/8) inch from the neck end. There shall be an official U.S. Customs and Border Protection, 24-ligne, shank style removable button, in a color and style to match the other buttons on the jacket, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings. (see Figure 9)

Badge tabs.

AMO and OFO badge tabs. There shall be two stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) above the left breast pocket. They shall be spaced approximately 1-1/4 inch apart, center to center. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 3/4 inch above the top edge of the left breast pocket. Eyelets shall be placed in accordance with pattern markings.

USBP badge tabs. (see Figure 8) There shall be two stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) on the left breast pocket flap. They shall be spaced approximately 1 inch apart, center to center. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 3/4 inch from the bottom edge and 1-1/2 inch away from the edge that is closest to the jacket opening. (see Figure 8) Nameplate. There shall be two sewn eyelets centers approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) above the right breast pocket. They shall be spaced approximately 1-5/8 inch apart, center to center. The center of each eyelet shall be placed approximately 3/4 inch above the top edge of the right breast pocket. Eyelets shall be placed in accordance with pattern markings.

Label. The label for the jacket shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, care instructions and size. The label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the Textile Products Identification Act and Care Labeling Act.

Care instructions. Care instructions shall be as recommended by the suppliers of the materials.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE IV. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (±2) stitches per inch. Buttons for 36-ligne front closure, pocket flaps, epaulettes shall be shank type buttons with washers and O-rings. USBP, 24 ligne buttonholes shall have a 5/8-inch opening. Waistband button on jacket hem shall be attached with 16 stitches per button and tension set that allows button to easily operate in/out buttonhole. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Waistband and front closure buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, straight finish design with one-inch opening. Pocket flaps and epaulettes use 1-inch-long no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design. (See ASTM 6193, Figure 1.3). Tack ends of all buttonhole stitching and gimp by machine or hand with a vertical bartack centered on both legs of the buttonhole. Front closure buttons (4) are attached via sewn 1/8-inch open diameter eyelets versus remaining attached at eyelet end opening on lapel buttonholes. No buttonhole or eyelets shall have thread extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be in accordance with TABLE IV. The jacket shall be constructed using double-needle topstitching, spaced 1/4 inch apart unless otherwise stated in the patterns. Jacket parts using1/4-inch double-needle topstitching include: jacket waistband (top, bottom and front ends), front pockets and flaps, top collar, left and right lapel front jacket edging, epaulettes and top of sleeve cuff overlay.

· Breast pockets shall be stitched, turned, and double-needle topstitched around three edges: each side and the lower scalloped edge on pocket flap.

· See TABLE V for bartack applications. Bartacks shall be either:

· 3/8 inch long with 24 to 28 stitches or

· 1/2 inch with 28 to 32 stitches.

· Sewn eyelets shall be 5/16 inch sewn diameter with 5/32 inch center opening (enough for button shank to enter).

· The collar shall have 1/8-inch zigzag (304), blindstitch (105) or hand stitching, with approximately 11 stitches per inch.

TABLE IV. Seam and stitching types.

TABLE IV. Seam and stitching types. Continued

Pockets and pocket flaps See 3.8.1.2 for USBP

Upper collar stand to collar

Lower stand to lapels and back lining SSa-1

SSa-1 1/4 inch

1/4 inch

Box-X-stitch. A 2 inch long box-X stitch is tapered evenly to the contour of the existing inside stitching. Wide end of epaulette is inserted into shoulder seam. Epaulette is box-X stitched through shoulder body, but not through lining. Narrow end is secured to the body at the collar stand with top stitching.

Bi-swing stitching. Bi-swing pattern piece has no fusible interlining. A piece of 1/4-inch cotton twill tape is sewn into bi-swing outside fold line. The bi-swing fold line shall be stitched closed 3-3/4 inches below the top shoulder seam, and 4-1/2 inches above upper edge of the waistband, superimposed on stitching. Bartacks shall be placed at top and bottom of bi-swing opening.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the jackets shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1/2 inch for all joining seams unless otherwise noted.

· The sleeves shall have a hem allowance of approximately 1-1/2 inch when finished (2-1/2-inch turn-up).

· 3/4 inch for joining center back shell fabric.

· 1/4 inch for joining collar to collarstand.

· 3/8 inch for joining edges of top and under collar, collar to neck, facing to front jacket, and joining the shell and lining for chest pocket and flaps.

· 1/4 inch for attaching pocket flaps to jacket, joining side ends of top and under collar and epaulettes.

Jacket waistband stitching. The waistband for the jacket shall be stitched as follows:

1. Sew lining 3/8 inch from edge with SSa-1 onto face side of 5-1/2 inches wide hem pattern strip, turn back lining sharply.

2. Sew opposite side of hem strip to jacket body with LSb-2 double needle 301 topstitch.

3. Equally fold hem strip in half and edge stitch with double needle 301 along bottom of hem.

4. Finished waistband shall be 2-1/4 inches wide with no stitch lines through lining.

Cuff overlay stitching. The cuff overlay for the jacket shall be stitched as follows using 301 type stitching:

1. Sew arm sleeve and backside of lining 3/8 inches from edges with SSa-1, turn back lining sharply 1/2 inch.

2. Sew cuff overlay second layer cuff backside to face, 2 inches back from bottom cuff with SSa-1.

3. Turn cuff overlay top cuff back 1/2 inch and seam LSd-2 with double topstitch along top cuff overlay pattern piece.

4. Sew underarm and top sleeve outer shell and lining closure SSa-1 seams separately.

5. Finished arm sleeve cuff shall be turned back 1-1/2 inch from cuff edge to lining with no stitch lines showing externally on cuff or through inside lining. Gauge, 2-needle 301 top stich starting 1/16 inch along second layer cuff overlay upper edge.

Bartacks. To maintain garment durability and functionality, bartacks shall be placed as specified in TABLE V.

TABLE V. Bartack placement

(inches)

Exterior of jacket:

Horizontal bartacks on back bi-swing through 1/4 cotton twill tape and shell fabric, but not lining. Lower back bartack spaced 6 3/4 inches up from bottom edge of coat, upper bartack spaced 3 1/2 inches down from top center shoulder seam.

3/8

28-32

Interior of jacket:

Vertical bartack on end of each inside welt pocket, armhole side, through welt and lining only.

1/2

28-32

Horizontal bartacks, 3/8 inch on button side facing, 3-3/4 inch up from bottom of coat.

Horizontal bartack 9 inches up from bottom of coat.

· Bartacks form a 5-1/4 inch pocket on each side of the inner portion of the coat.

Seam smoothness. When tested in accordance with Table VI, the seams shall have an initial smoothness rating of 5 and rating of 3.5 (minimum) after laundering in accordance with the care label.

Figures. Figures 1-9 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. The pattern list for the jacket in TABLE VI is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE VI.

TABLE VI. List of pattern parts.

TABLE VI. List of pattern parts. Continued

Pattern Abbreviation

TABLE VI. List of pattern parts. Continued

Pattern Abbreviation

Manufacturing requirements. The jacket shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the jacket except as a means to facilitate the attachment and removal of buttons and in the eyelets for attachment of a nameplate and badge shall be prohibited.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in this PD or in the contract. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles for epaulettes, collar stand and pocket flaps, collar, wool undercollar material, whole front pieces, inside breast pocket facing, front chest pockets, front and back bottom hem, and underarm guard shall be bonded per manufacturers recommended setting using a fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron or any steam device. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press capable of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time and temperature for 8 hours. Note that any change in basic material shade may be due to sublimation and would require the all pattern pieces without fusible go through fusing process to maintain shade quality.

Configuration. Each jacket shall conform to appearance (see Figures 3-9), the finished measurements in TABLE VII (as applicable), and the stitches specified in 3.8 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

Finished measurements. The finished jackets shall conform to the measurements listed in TABLE VII below.

TABLE VII. Finished measurements (inches).

1/ Chest: Measure across front at armhole seam from folded edge to folded edge with jacket buttoned and laid flat. Measurement doubled.

2/ Across Shoulder: Measure from shoulder seam, straight across to second shoulder seam.

3/ Back Length: Measure along center back from collar/body seam to bottom of jacket.

4/ Sleeve length: Measure from Center Back Neck to the end the shoulder, then along the outer flattened folded edge of sleeve straight to bottom of hem.

PD-9

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the jacket shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The jacket shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE VIII) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. Jackets shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description. The following critical components shall exhibit finished appearance. Epaulettes, pocket flaps, collar shall be uniformly stitched, smooth and flat, without twisting, gathers, pleats or raw edges with a uniform shape and size, collar shall hug the neck line. Sleeve and sleeve linings shall be uniform in width, pressed smooth and flat and lining shall not be short or tight at bottom of sleeve. Back seam pieces shall be joined evenly, without gathers, puckers or pleats. Vent shall finish smooth and flat. Front darts, pockets and flaps shall be even without pleats or gathers. All pocket and flap top edges shall be parallel to front edge of jacket and even in appearance. Lapel points shall be even across; no stitch lines shall show through face side. Shoulder seams shall exhibit correct fullness, be flat and smooth without distortion and match shoulder line on front patterns. Sleeves shall be set uniformly and even side to side with fullness at front and back armhole without pleats and puckers. Top buttonhole shall be positioned in horizontal alignment with the center of buttons in the breast pocket flaps and parallel with the front edge of the jacket. The remaining three buttonholes shall be evenly spaced 3-1/2 inches apart and parallel with the top buttonhole. Finished jacket shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions. Top of the sleeves shall be blocked and pressed having a rolled effect at front to back. There shall not be any strike through, strike back or residue fusible adhesive on jacket and the jacket shall be capable of being dry-cleaned and steam pressed 25 times without bubbling, delamination, strike through, shrinkage or any sign of sewing threads unravelling or lining material looking out of shape.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Jackets submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Each jacket shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE VIII, material and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished jacket. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VIII. End item visual examination

Knots greater than Sears Scale Level C1/ (See 2.3)

Slubs greater than Sears Scale Level D1/ (See 2.3)

Not specified type, size or color

Color or type not as specified

Size, combination identification/care labels not placed correctly

Hangtags/UPC labels not placed securely attached in correct position

Barcode/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item

Loose stitching, incorrect number of stitches

TABLE VIII. End item visual examination - Continued

Button holes not as specified

Buttonholes not cleanly cut to required opening size

Loose or tight stitch tension

Less than 1/2 inch in length

Seam allowance not as required by stitch type

Cleanness/ Workmanship

Excessive thread ends (more than 3)

Between 1/4 to 1-1/2 inch

All closures on jacket not engaged

1/ Using SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Scales

End item dimensional examination. The jacket shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TABLE VII.

Component and end item testing. Components and end item for the Ike Jackets shall be tested in accordance with TABLE IX. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE IX. Material and end item testing.

AATCC 1582/

Colorfastness to:

Light after 40 hours

TABLE I-III

AATCC-16 Option 33/

Dry cleaning (3X)

AATCC-132

Crocking (dry and wet)

AATCC-8 4/

Perspiration (acid and alkaline)

AATCC-15