PD20-01 OFO Maternity Jumper - Final Draft.docx

INCH-POUND

PD-20-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JUMPER, MATERNITY, OFFICE OF FIELD OPERATIONS

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Field Operations and the Department of Homeland Security (DHS).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a jumper intended for wear by female personnel of the Office of Field Operations (OFO) authorized to wear maternity clothing. The item is identified in the CBP catalog with item number 5152 “Maternity Jumper”.

Classification. The jumper will be available in one type in the following sizes. If available sizes do not properly fit, then alternative “made to measure” sizes will be available by contacting the Uniform Management Center.

Sizes.

Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large XX-Large XXX-Large

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

DRAFT PD20-01

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE® FASHION + HOME (Cotton Products) (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/) US Button US Button Standard Button Book (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.usbutton.com/)

Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted in the contract, in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The basic cloth for the jumper shall be 75% polyester/25% wool, 2/2 Right Hand weave cloth and shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I. Numeric values are averages.

Lining cloth. The lining cloth for the jumper shall be 100% polyester, 2/1 Right Hand weave cloth and shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I. Numeric values are averages.

TABLE I. Material requirements.

Poly

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (±1) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

16.3 13.4

10.3 7.9

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum shrinkage or growth) after 3 launderings Warp Fill

0.7 0.1

0.2 0.2

TABLE I. Basic material requirements. Continued

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Crocking Dry Wet

4.5 3.5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering - after 3 cycles Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

4-5

3-4

3-4

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Light

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

3-4

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Acidic Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

3-4

Color. The color for the jumper basic cloth shall be Office of Field Operations Navy (PANTONE 19-4013 TC) when tested as specified in TABLE VI.

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the jumper and components shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in TABLE VI.

Components. The thread and zipper shall be the specified color. All components shall be of good quality and free from defects as specified in TABLE V and shall be placed according to patterns.

Thread. The thread for the primary seams (side seams and inseams) shall be A-A-50199, Type I or II Tex 60 continuous filament cotton or polyester staple wrap. The color shall be black or navy. Thread for the secondary seams (blind stitching, zipper attachment, neckline and arm-sleeve opening, skirt hemming and front pocket assembly) shall be Tex 40 same thread type. Thread for overedging small parts (other than side seams) shall be polyester, soft or bonded air entangled size Tex 24. Bobbin and looper thread shall use the same Tex size thread, unless otherwise noted.

Fusible Interfacing. The interfacing for the upper front and upper back panels shall be MIL-C- 44296, Type V, nonwoven, Polyester or poly/nylon blended, 2.0 oz, class 1, polyamide adhesive with minimum of 175 fusible dots per square inch, color grey or black. All fusibles are per pattern pieces.

Zipper. The zipper for jumper shall be A-A-55634, Type 1 (closed bottom, open top), style 4 automatic lock, continuous coil element chain, size 2, black and measure 18 inches from top stop to bottom stop.

Standard sample. The finished jumper shall match the standard sample (see 6.3) for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced unless otherwise specified herein, in the contract or solicitation.

Design. The jumper is a one-piece sleeveless empire dress with wide shoulder straps. Upper front panels overlap forming a V-shaped neckline. Lower front has four pleats and side pockets, pockets made from basic cloth, with openings measuring 6 inches. Back has a zipper opening with a kick pleat at center back seam. Only upper front and upper back panels are fully lined.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in the solicitation. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles for upper front and upper back shall be bonded per manufacturers recommended setting using a fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron.

Label. The label for the jumper shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, laundering instructions and size. The information on the label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (see 2.2.2). Packaged jumper shall have a detachable label with a machine-readable bar code/Universal Product Code (UPC) as well as human readable information which is visible when the finished jumper is folded and packaged in accordance with the contract. Label sizes and information for the detachable label will be included in the contract or solicitation.

Laundering instructions. Laundering instructions shall be as recommended by the supplier of the basic material.

Thread for label. The thread for attaching the label shall be Tex 40 continuous filament polyester with a polyester staple wrap. The color for the label shall match the basic material color.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE II. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (±2) stitches per inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be as cited below, in accordance with TABLE II and in paragraphs 3.9.1.1 through 3.9.1.6.

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types.

1/ Tex 60 shall be used for 401 stitching and either Tex 40 or Tex 24 polyester for overedging.

2/ When zipped up, finished zipper shall be covered by both sides of back panel foldovers.

3/ There shall be no visible stitchline on exterior of jumper.

4/ When stitching empire seam evenly sew pleats and front pocket openings and pocket bags per pattern pieces.

Center back zipper. Using seam type EFd-1 and a 3/16-inch gauge, stitch type 515 or 516. Fold back center back fabric edge 1/2 inch, place zipper on top for SSs-1 stitch type. Top stitch with 301 stitch 1/4 inch from folded edge. When zipped up, finished zipper shall covered via both sides of back panel fold overs.

Jumper hem. Using seam type EFd-1 and a 1/8-inch gauge, stitch type 515 or 516 (see footnote 1 to Table II). Fold hem up 1-3/4 inches. Use stitch type EFl-1 using blind stitch (101, 102 or 103). There shall be no visible stitchline on exterior of hem.

Neckline and armholes. Using seam type LSb-1 sew outershell and lining together, turn arm sleeve and iron back outershell 1/4 inch. On neckline side, form SSa-1, turn back to stitchline and iron. Finished neckline and arm sleeve shall not have visible stitchline or lining exposed on exterior of parts.

Empire seam. Stitch bottom outershell and top outershell with lining, using seam type SSa-2. Overedge and 301 stitch 1/8 inch apart, stitch type 503 or 503 with 301. When stitching empire seam evenly sew in pleats and front pocket openings and pocket bags per pattern pieces.

Pocket opening – Catch pocket bags on 2 sides with SSa-2, 1/4-inch gauge, with 515 or 516 stitch type. Catch long side into side seam per pattern placement. Sew facing opening side with Seam Type LSb-1, 1/8 gauge, 301 stitch type direct into outershell. Sew backside with SSa-1, 301 stitch.

Kick Pleat. Overedge left side slit, fold back 1-3/4 inches back up to 6 inches from hem line. Sew bottom 2 inches up into hem line before blind stitching. Right side rear slit, seam type EFd-1 and finish with EFa-1, with 301 stitching.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the jumper shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1/2 inch for all joining seams, unless otherwise noted.

· 3/8 inch for front and back necklines and around armholes.

· 1/4 inch on right lower back kick pleat.

· 2-inch seam allowance for jumper hem, serged and blind stitched.

· 5/8 inch for center back seams.

Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. TABLE III is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the jumper shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Manufacturing requirements. The jumper shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the jumper is prohibited.

Configuration. Each jumper shall conform to appearance (see Figures 1-2), the finished measurements in TABLE IV (as applicable), and the construction methods specified in 3.10 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

Finished measurements. The jumper shall conform to the finished measurements specified in TABLE IV. TABLE IV includes only those sizes cited in section 1.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches).

Numeric size

Size

2/ Hips 3/

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished jumper shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the jumper shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The jumper shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE V) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The jumper shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Jumper submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Each jumper shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE V, fabric and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished jumper. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE V. Component and end item defects.

Knots greater than Sears1/ Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than Sears1/ Level D (see 2.3)

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Variation in shade between parts

TABLE V. Component and end item defects. Continued

Thread color not as specified

Edge of front panel not aligned with pleat in accordance with patterns by more than 1/8 inch.

Pocket twisted, curled or puckered, not stitched as specified or not well formed

Pockets out of alignment 1/4 inch or more

Bar code/Universal Product Code (UPC) code omitted or not readable by scanner; human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible

Bar code/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item, bar code attachment causes damage to the item

Finished Measurements

Finished measurements out of tolerance

1/ The SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales reference the Sears Levels for this evaluation.

End item dimensional examination. The jumper shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TABLE IV.

Material and end item testing. Components and end item for the jumper shall be tested in accordance with TABLE VI. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE VI. Material Testing.

Colorfastness to Light (after 40 hours) Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering (after 3 cycles) Crocking Perspiration (Acid and Alkaline)

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

AATCC 16.3 Opt.3 2/

AATCC 61 Test 3A 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15

Toxicity test. A Certificate of Compliance COC is acceptable for verification of the toxicity requirement specified in 3.13.

PACKAGING

Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order.

NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

Intended use. The jumper is intended for wear by all female personnel of the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Field Operations authorized to wear maternity clothing items.

Standard Sample. Requests for the standard sample should be made through the contracting activity. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

FIGURE 1. Office of Field Operations Maternity Jumper, Front View.

DRAFT PD20-01

FIGURE 2. Office of Field Operations Maternity Jumper, back view.

image1.png image2.jpg