PD8-01 OFO Female Short - Final Draft.docx

DRAFT PD7-01

INCH-POUND

PD8-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CARGO WORK SHORT, FEMALE, OFFICE OF FIELD OPERATIONS

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Field Operations (OFO) and the Department of Homeland Security (DHS).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a Cargo Work Short intended for wear by female personnel of the Office of Field Operations (OFO). This item is identified in the CBP catalog with item number CBPOFO-019 “Female Navy Cargo Work Shorts.”

Classification. The short is available in one type in the sizes as specified below.

Sizes. The short is available in even sizes 2 through 26.

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton - Polyester Covered

(Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil)

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified. The issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies are available on-line at http://www.asq.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.astm.org)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE® FASHION + HOME (Cotton Products) (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/) US Button US Button Standard Button Book (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.usbutton.com/)

Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The basic cloth for the Cargo Work shorts shall be 65% polyester/35% cotton, twill cloth and shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I when tested in accordance with TABLE VII.

Pocket cloth. The pocket cloth for the Cargo Work shorts shall be 70% polyester/30% cotton, plain weave cloth and shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I when tested in accordance with TABLE VII. Pocket cloth shall be used in pockets as well as reinforcement pieces cited in Table IV.

TABLE I. Material requirements.

Fabric Appearance (Minimum) Initial After 20 Launderings

NA

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

8.0 9.5

5.5 5.0

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum shrinkage or growth) after 3 launderings Warp Fill

2.0 1.0

TABLE I. Material requirements. Continued

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering - after 3 cycles Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

4-5

3-4

3-4 3-4

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Light

3-4

NA

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Crocking Dry Wet

2.5 1.5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

3-4 3-4 3-4

3-4

3-4

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Acidic Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5

3-4 3-4

Color. The Work Cargo Shorts are part of a uniform set and shall be a color match to the Work Shirt (CBP Catalog item number CBPOFO-13 [short sleeve] or CBPOFO-11 [long sleeve]). The color for the shorts basic cloth shall be Office of Field Operations Navy (PANTONE 19-4013 TC) and the color for the shorts pocket cloth shall be black (PANTONE 19-4007 TC) when tested as specified in accordance with TABLE VII.

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the shorts shall match the standard sample (see 6.2) when tested as specified in TABLE VII.

Components. The buttons, fastener tape, slide fastener and thread shall be a complimentary color to the basic cloth (see 3.5) unless otherwise noted in the contract or solicitation. All components shall be of good quality and free from defects as specified in TABLE VI and shall be placed according to patterns unless otherwise specified herein.

Buttons. The buttons shall be 22 ligne (14 mm), style M4723 polished pattern Industro or equivalent, per US Button Standard Book (see 2.2.3) or equal with four (4) holes, and the color shall be black, unless otherwise stated in the contract or solicitation.

Thread. The thread for the primary seams (side seams, in seams, seat seams, crotch seams) shall be A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex 60 continuous filament polyester with a cotton or polyester staple wrap. Thread for the secondary seams (pocket seams, flaps, waistband, front pocket welted pockets, all bartacks and other small parts) shall be Tex 40 of the same thread type. Thread for overedging shall be polyester, soft or bonded air entangled size Tex 24, threads in buttons and button holes shall be Tex 31-35, 2 ply polyester core cotton wrap or alternate Tex 30 polyester.

Fusible interfacing. The fusible interfacing shall be MIL-C-44296, black or grey, type V, Style B thermobonded 50 - 100% polyester with remaining percentage nylon nonwoven at 1.7 — 2.4 ounces per square yard for fusing left fly front, welt pockets, belt loops and waistband with Polyamide adhesive at a minimum of 175 fusible dots per square inch. Side applied pocket opening and welt pocket facing interlining shall be an extension of the 3.3 ounce per square yard woven poly/cotton pocketing material.

Resin tape for belt loop construction. The belt loops shall have a resin tape used in the construction of the belt loop to prevent fraying.

Zipper/slide fastener. The zipper/slide fastener shall be constructed with a 9/16-inch chain (commercial No. 5 with automatic lock slider) and the color of the tape shall be black. The bottom stop, top stop, chain, slider and pull shall be brass.

Standard sample. The finished shorts shall match the standard sample (see 6.2) for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced unless otherwise specified herein, in the contract or solicitation.

Design. The shorts shall have a waistband with clean finished ends with five (5) belt loops. The shorts shall have a covered fly with a zipper/slide fastener closure and a button/buttonhole closure in waistband at the front that closes left over right. The shorts shall have two (2) front applied pockets, overlayed by two pleated cargo (bellows) pocketson the front and two (2) back double welt back pockets with each having a single one (1) button closure pocket flap design. Front side pleated cargo pockets each with a single one (1) pocket flap design. The shorts shall have a double needle top stitch at front crotch and center back seat seam. The shorts shall maintain a crease front and back after up to 20 laundering cycles (see TABLE VII) by using permanent press treatment or other acceptable process such as Crease-Set® or equivalent material.

Labels. The label for the shorts shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, laundering instructions and size. The information on the label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods Act (see 2.2.2).

Packaged shorts shall have a detachable label with a machine-readable bar code/Universal Product Code (UPC) as well as human readable information which is visible when the finished short is folded and packaged in accordance with the contract. Label sizes and information for the detachable label will be included in the contract or solicitation.

Laundering instructions. Laundering instructions shall be as recommended by the supplier of the basic cloth.

Thread for label. The thread for attaching the label shall be Tex 40 continuous filament polyester with a polyester staple wrap. The color for the label shall match the basic cloth color.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE II. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in, turned-under or serged. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (±2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 stitches per button. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Buttonholes shall be an eyelet end design with opening at 5/8 to 3/4 inch. Buttonholes shall be flat with even stitching all around, with no skipped stitches or protruding threads more than 1/4 inch.

Fly seaming and stitching. The fly construction stitching of front center crotch seam shall end at J-stitch. There shall be a horizontal bartack superimposed on the bottom point of the J-stitch (see FIGURE 4). The bartack shall not interfere with operation of the fly.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the short shall include seam allowance of 1/2 inch for all seams and 3/8 inch for pockets, waistband and pocket flaps, except where otherwise specified.

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types.

Side seams, seat seam and inseam:

a) Side seams & Inseams

b) Seat seam

a) SSa-2

b) LSbm-4

a) 1/8 inch between overedge and 401

b) 1/4 inch

a) 515 or 516 (Safety Stitch)

b) 515 or 516 with 301 topstitching

Top stitching of pocket flaps

SSc-2

1/16 inch from edge with 1/4 inch double 301 gauge

1-1/2 inch from edge

1-1/2 inch , attach with LSd-1

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types. Continued

Waistband attachment

a) Bond fusible to 3-1/2 in wide waistband pattern piece.

b) Attach overedged shorts waist to bottom of waistband

c) Sew second stitchline 1/8 inch from top edge, 1-1/4 inch apart from bottom stitchline.

d) Sewn chain stitch loops shall be visible only on back side of waistband.

SSa-1

BSo-2

3/8 inch

1/8 inch from bottom edge.

LSas-2

1/ 2 needle 301 is 4-3/8 inch long to account for pencil opening between 2 bartacks.

2/ Finished bellows shall be 3/4 inch each side such that they meet in a straight smooth manner with no overlap. (See FIGURE 3) 3/ Face and backside of crotch seam shall look the same.

Left Fly Assembly.

a) Set left zipper chain onto 2-inch-wide zipper strip pattern piece with front zipper chain 7/8 inch from edge. Double Top stitch zipper tape per SSAu-2 with 3/16-inch gauge stitch line starting 1/16 inch from back of zipper chain.

b) Top stitch zipper strip assembly with interlining onto left front pattern piece with SSa-1, 301 at 5/16 inch away from front chain.

c) Turn back zipper strip assembly, 1/2 inch to prepare for J-Stitch. Total turn-in shall be 1-3/4 inch with 3/16 inch of front pattern piece exposed. Prepare for J-stitch 301 seam 1-3/8 inch from turned-in edge.

Bartacks. To maintain garment durability and functionality, bartacks shall be placed as specified in TABLE III. Bartacks shall be 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide.

TABLE III. Bartack placement

(inches)

Top and bottom of all belt loops (set 1/8 inch from edge) (horizontal)

1/2

28-32

Fly front Horizontal superimposed on bottom point of J-stitch of fly outside (through all layers)

1/2

28-32

Cargo pocket flaps (vertical)

a. One (1) vertical bartack at top front corner and top back corner

b. One (1) vertical bartack 1-1/4 inch away from top front corner bartack to create pen opening

Front applied pocket opening,

a. one (1) bartack each at top opening, superimposed on waistband topstitching (horizontal)

b. bottom, superimposed on side seam topstitching (horizontal)

Cargo pocket, place one (1) horizontal bartack at top front corner and one at top back corner

3/8

28-32

Seam smoothness. When tested in accordance with Table VII, the seams shall have an initial smoothness rating of 5 and rating of 3.5 (minimum) after laundering in accordance with the care label.

Figures. FIGURES 1 through 5 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. TABLE IV is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the short shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with TABLE IV.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Manufacturing requirements. The short shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of basic cloth. The use of drill holes on the short is prohibited Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated. All fusibles in belt loops and waistband shall be bonded per manufacturers recommended setting on a fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic cloth or as indicated on pattern.

Waistband. The waistband is a common 1-1/2 inch folded over strip with five (5) belt loops bartacked even with the top edge of the waistband. Waistband is backed using fusible nonwoven interfacing on both sides of the center fold line, then strip is top stitched all around 1/16 inch from either edge. Left end of waistband has horizontal buttonhole centered and 3/8 inch from finished edge with matching button on right end of waistband.

Belt loops. The shorts shall have five (5) belt loops, measuring 1/2 (±1/8) inch in finished width, and finish 2-1/4 (± 1/8) inches from top to bottom fold in the length. Fold is 3/4 inch below bottom of waistband. Finished belt loop opening shall be 1-3/4 inches. The belt loop placement shall be as follows: one (1) on back seam, and one (1) on each front, centered between side seam and shorts center front, and one (1) on back side centered between side seam and back seam. (See FIGURES 1 and 2) Fly. The fly shall have one (1) row of “J” stitching. The top fly shall be edge stitched 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The fly shall have one (1) horizontal bartack (see Figure 4).

Front applied pockets. The shorts shall have two (2) front applied pockets with pocket openings measuring 7 (±1/4) inches between bartacks. Pocket openings shall match each other within 1/4 inch. Any raw edge shall be overedge stitched.

Back welt pockets. The shorts shall have back left and right double welt hip pockets with a one (1) button/buttonhole closure per pocket (see FIGURE 3). The finished welt shall have an interlining (see 3.6.3) and measure 1/4 (±1/16) inch. The welt opening shall measure 3/8 (±1/16) inch. The buttons shall be sewn onto the center of the outside of the rear pocket 1 inch below the upper edge of welt. The eyelet end button hole, with an opening size of 5/8 to 3/4 inch, shall be sewn in center of pocket flap 1/2 inch up from bottom of flap and 1/4 inch from bottom edge of top welt as indicated on patterns (see FIGURE 2).

Cargo pockets and flaps. The shorts shall have two (2) pleated bellows cargo pockets with flaps (see pattern for placement). The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 3/4 inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The inverted pleat shall be stitched closed to secure pleat stability. The cargo pockets and flaps shall close with buttons. Buttonhole and button placement is same as rear welt pocket except button is sewn 3/4 inch from top of pocket opening.

Leg bottom and hem. The shorts leg bottoms shall be hemmed to create the appropriate inseam length (see TABLE V). Hem shall be finished with overedge and turned in one-inch with seam type EFb-1, 301 stitch.

Configuration. Each short shall conform to appearance (see FIGURES 1-4), the finished measurements in TABLE V (as applicable), and the construction methods specified in 3.11 and TABLES II and III in order to maintain configuration compliance.

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Finished measurements. The finished shorts shall conform to the measurements listed in TABLE V below. Front pocket openings, measured from top edge of pocket opening to bottom edge of pocket opening, shall be 7 (±1/4) inches, regardless of short size. Regardless of waist size, inseam lengths, measured from center of crotch seam to leg bottom, shall be (±3/4 inch): 6-1/4 inches for petite length short, 7-1/4 inches for regular length short, 8-1/4 inches for tall length short.

TABLE V. Finished measurements (inches).

Tolerance

± 1/2 inch

± 1 inch

± 1/2 inch

± 3/4 inch

± 3/4 inch

± 3/4 inch

NOTE: The waist button shall be fastened. Shorts shall be placed flat upon a table and measured as follows:

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished shorts shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the shorts shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The shorts shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE VI) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The shorts shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Shorts, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects (see TABLE VI), as defined in the contract or failure to pass any test (see TABLE VII) may be cause for rejection of the lot and more detailed inspection of subsequent lots.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual inspections. Each short shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE VI, all fabric and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect serviceability and appearance of the short. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4 (see 2.2). If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VI. Component and end item defects.

Knots greater than Sears Level C (See 2.3)

Slubs greater than Sears Level D (See 2.3)

Not specified type, size or color

TABLE VI. Component and end item defects. Continued

missing or skewed J stitch line

Pocket and Flaps (all)

Not cleanly opened to size to fit button

Cargo Pockets

Missing edge stitch on pleats

Loose stitching

TABLE VI. Component and end item defects. Continued

Color or type not as specified

Size, combination identification/care labels not placed as per contract

Hangtags/UPC labels not placed securely attached in correct position

Barcode/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item

Seams and Stitching

Loose or tight stitch tension

Less than 1/2 inch in length

Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to the edge or needle chew resulting in damage to fabric over 1/4 inch in length

Double needle intersecting seams staggered by more than 1/4 inch

Run off of stitching more than 1/2 inch for edge or raised stitching

Seams and Stitching - Continued Free floating stitching not secured in a seam or other stitching by less than 1/4 inch or ends of a continuous line of stitching not overlapped over 1/2 inch (except label stitching)

TABLE VI. Component and end item defects. Continued

Cleanliness/ Workmanship

Excessive thread ends (more than 3):

Between 1/4 and 1-1/2 inches

All closures on shorts not engaged

End item dimensional examination. The shorts shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TABLE V Material testing. The basic cloth and pocket cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in TABLE I. The methods of test shall be as specified in TABLE VII. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE VII. Material testing.

Colorfastness to Light (after 40 hours Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering (after 3 cycles) Crocking Perspiration (Acid and Alkaline)

AATCC 61 Test 3A3/

AATCC 84/

AATCC 153/

Table notes:

Toxicity test. A Certificate of Compliance (CoC) is acceptable for verification of the toxicity requirement specified in 3.15.

PACKAGING

Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order.

NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

Intended use. The shorts are intended for wear by female personnel of the Office of Field Operations.

Standard Sample. Requests for the standard sample should be made through the contracting activity.

FIGURE 1. Office of Field Operations Female Cargo Work Short, Front View

FIGURE 2. Office of Field Operations Female Cargo Work Short, Back View

FIGURE 3. Office of Field Operations Female Cargo Work Short, Side View

FIGURE 4. Office of Field Operations Female Cargo Work Short, Front Detail image1.jpeg image2.jpeg image3.jpeg image4.jpeg