PD13-01 Unisex Pipes and Drum Jacket - Final Draft.docx

INCH-POUND

PD13-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, PIPES AND DRUMS, UNISEX

This purchase description is approved for use by Air and Marine Operations (AMO), Office of Field Operations (OFO), and U.S. Border Patrol (USBP) within the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester/wool jacket intended for wear by all personnel assigned to the CBP Pipes and Drums during ceremonial occasions. While the design of the jackets is similar across the CBP, personnel from each of the offices listed below will wear a distinctive jacket (see 1.2.1). Design differences exist and are outlined in section 3.

Air and Marine Office. The AMO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “AMO Unisex Tan Pipes and Drums Jacket” (CBPOAM-310).

Office of Field Operations. The OFO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “OFO Unisex Navy Pipes and Drums Jacket” (CBPOFO-212).

United States Border Patrol. The USBP version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “USBP Unisex Green Pipes and Drums Jacket” (CBPOBP-156).

Classification. The jacket will be available in one type and three color combinations in the following sizes:

Color combination.

Silver Tan with brown contrast and gold AMO buttons for wear by the AMO.

Navy with black contrast and gold OFO buttons for wear by the OFO.

Green with navy contrast and gold USBP buttons for wear by the USBP.

Sizes. The jacket shall be available in even sizes as follows:

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

DRAFT PD13-01

DRAFT PD13-01

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/)

Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.astm.org/.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE HOME + FASHION (Cotton Products) (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/)

Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials. Materials for the Pipes and Drums jacket shall be as cited below. The use of an “equal” or “equivalent” item requires authorization from US Customs and Border Protection.

Basic cloth. The twill weave materials for the jacket body, lining and contrast (epaulettes, center front collar and cuff overlay) shall conform to the requirements in TABLES I-III when tested as specified in TABLE IX, unless otherwise noted.

Lining material. The lining shall meet the requirements of TABLE I-III when tested as specified in TABLE IX, unless otherwise noted.

Pocket material. The chest pockets and hip pocket flaps on the jacket shall use body fabric. Inside welt pockets shall use body material for the welts and lining material or, as an alternate a pocketing material, for the pocket bags, reinforced with body material.

TABLE I. Material requirements for AMO jacket materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

19.5 13.5

2.5 2.5

10.0 7.5 N/A

TABLE I. Material requirements for AMO jacket materials. Continued

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

N/A

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

1.0 1.1

4.0

1.5 0.5 N/A

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

N/A

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

NA

4-5 N/A

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5

3.5 N/A

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

4-5

3-4 3-4

N/A

TABLE II. Material requirements for OFO jacket materials.

Characteristic

Requirement

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

10.4 7.9

6.1 6.1

10.4 7.9 N/A

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

N/A

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

1.3

N/A

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

N/A

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

N/A

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5 4.5

4.5 N/A

TABLE II. Material requirements for OFO jacket materials. Continued

Characteristic

Requirement

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5 N/A

TABLE III. Material requirements for USBP jacket materials.

Characteristic

Requirement

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

11.5 6.6

2.5 2.5

11.5 6.5 N/A

TABLE III. Material requirements for USBP jacket materials. Continued Characteristic

Requirement

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

N/A

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

3.0

4.0

3.0

N/A

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

N/A

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

4-5

N/A

4-5 N/A

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5

4.5 N/A

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5

3-4 4-5 4-5 3-4 N/A

Color.

AMO Pipes and Drums Jacket color. The color for the AMO jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 16-1107 TC. The color for the contrast shall be Brown Pantone 19-0712 TC.

The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 16-1509 TC. The pocket fabric color shall be PANTONE 16-1107 TC.

OFO Pipes and Drums Jacket color. The color for the OFO jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 19-4013 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-4007 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 19-4205 TC. The pocket fabric color shall be PANTONE 19-4007 TC.

USBP Pipes and Drums Jacket color. The color for the USBP jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 19-0414 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-4013 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 19-0312 TC. The pocket fabric color shall be Black (PANTONE 19-4007 TC).

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the jacket shall match the standard sample or color identified in 3.3.4 when tested as specified in TABLE IX.

Components.

Buttons. The buttons used in the Pipes and Drums Jacket are specific to each office under US Customs and Border Protection. All metal buttons use shank rings, style 3-06970-0000-4400 and washers, style 3-00818-0000-41900.

AMO Buttons. There shall be four (4) ligne 36 official AMO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOAM-159) with washers and O-rings for the front, six (6) ligne 24 official AMO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOAM-160) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 4-hole ligne 32 matte tan flat button for the bottom button. Matte tan button color shall approximate PANTONE 16-1107 TC, and meet V-B-871 Type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

OFO Buttons. There shall be four (4) ligne 36 official OFO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOFO-XXX) with washers and O-rings for the front, six (6) ligne 24 official OFO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOFO-XXX) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 4-hole ligne 32 matte black flat button for the bottom button. Matte black button color shall approximate PANTONE 19-4005 TC, and meet V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

USBP Buttons. There shall be four (4) ligne 36 official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098A) with washers and O-rings for the front, six (6) ligne 24 official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain ligne 24 matte green flat button for the bottom button. Matte green button color shall approximate PATONE 19-0414 TC, and meet V-B-871, type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

Belt retainer. A brass belt retainer shall be sewn into the side back seam on each side of the jacket. The 1-3/4-inch retainer is available through William Scolly, Ltd., product code 491006BELTHKG1 (brass belt hook) or equal may be used. A sewn eyelet, with a diameter of 5/16 inch shall be placed in accordance with the pattern to secure the belt retainer.

Thread. Thread for seaming coat, (side, back, under and upper arm-sleeve, shoulder and related armhole or other outer shell to outer shell seams) shall be A-A-50199, Type I or Type II, size Tex 46 to 60. All remaining small parts, such as mandarin collar, shoulder pads, lining seams (lining to lining and lining to outer shell), cuffs, front chest pockets, flaps, inside patch pockets, bottom hem, epaulettes, bi-swing assembly, bartacks, eyelets, bartack ends of open and closed eyelet end buttonholes and double -needle topstitching, Tex 36 to 45 may be used as an alternative of same thread type. All buttonholes shall use A-A-50198 Cotton Gimp, glazed finish size Tex 210 and all threads shall match outer shell shade or per contract requirements. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. Thread used for basting shall be A-A-52094, Type II, Tex 60 nominal or as appropriate.

Fusible interfacing. The interfacing for coat (top epaulette fabric, mandarin collar outer fabric, upper chest pockets, upper and lower front pocket flaps, 5 inches up from arm sleeve edge, 4 inches up from back hem line, front left and right pattern pieces (from front edge to underarm sleeve seam), top of side panels, bottom front pocket welting, inside top and bottom pocket welting, top sleeve cuff over lay, 3-1/2 inches in from vent edging vent and other if so designated per pattern) shall be MIL-C-44296, Type III, Style B Weft Inserted knit fusible between 2.4 and 3.0 ounces per square yard with 18% polyester filament (white warp) / 82% viscose rayon (black weft insert) blend. Fusible shall be minimum of 175 polyamide fusible dots per square inch. (see 3.11.1) Floating chest piece: Floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to Type XVIII of MIL-C-15065. Materials used shall meet A-A-52105, type I requirements using 5 to 7 ounce woven haircloth canvas using 33% cotton warp, and 37% polyester monofilament, and 30% goat hair filling. top layer shall use either ASTM D 2475, Class CF1 (White) or CF2 (Gray), Roll felt ranging from 2.9 -3.2 ounce or A-A-50129, 4.0 ounce minimum double napped cotton at minimum of 4.0 ounces. Cut materials according to coat front patterns.

Stretch mesh knit. A stretch mesh material shall be used in the back bi-swing. This piece is not visible in the final jacket, as it is concealed by the lining. Mesh shall be cut 2 inches wide and ends shall extend 1 inch beyond the edges of left and right inside bi-swing fold line of back panels. Place mesh 7 inches below neck edge. Mesh shall be lock-stitched at center back seam and on edge of folds. Mesh shall not be stretched and shall lay flat after it is stitched to panels (see Figure 2). Knit material is 5.5 ounce per square yard nominal offering 4-way stretch and recovery properties and shall be black.

Cotton twill tape. Cotton twill tape used as reinforcement for lower arm sleeve assembly, catching shoulder pad to lining, reinforcement for bi-swing pleat assembly, and hold down reinforcement for brass belt loops shall be A-A-52071, Type I, 1/4 inch width.

Tubular braid. Braid for coat hanger shall be MIL-B-371, Type III, class 2 or 3, either cotton or polypropylene, tubular braid, 3/16 inch wide.

Padding material. Padding for shoulder and sleeve head shall be MIL-P-15064, Type II, Man's (Navy Evening Dress Uniform) except finished pad shall measure 4.0 (± 1/4) inches at point of widest dimension and 8.0 (± 1/8) inches straight across the bottom with a thickness of 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick at vertical center at 0.6 PSI with a one inch anvil. Sleeve-heads shall be type IV or commercially available polyester-needle punch weighing 3.0 ounces minimum at thickness of

0.05 inch minimum. Use unbleached A-A-52094, Type I or II, size Tex 60 or as appropriate cotton thread for stitching and seaming of pads and sleeve heads.

Snap fasteners. Jackets use MIL-DTL-10884, Style 3, Brass, Black oxidized (matte), ligne 16 (3/8 inch) snap fasteners. Stud assembly on epaulette through bottom layer only, socket assembly on shoulder seam to correspond to the epaulette stud without causing twisting, bunching or wrinkling of the epaulette or jacket. Snaps are also located inside of the sleeve cuffs according to marks on patterns. Snap fastener shall be the YKK 16/H brass Snapet, DK7-0000-359, or equal.

Mandarin collar hook and eye closure. The black hook closure for the collar shall be part no 3-11563-0001-1040 and eye component 3-11564-0001-10401 available from Waterbury Button Co.

Stiffener fabric. Mandarin collar is fused, and then 2 layers of stiffener fabric meeting A-A-52108, Type II requirements shall be applied to stiffen the collar and make it stand up straight. Plain weave fabric is 4.5-ounce 100% cotton, polyester or any combination of each warp yarns with 100 % nylon or polyester monofilament filling yarns.

Emblem patches. There shall be official emblem patches applied to the left and right sleeves of the jacket. The sleeve emblems shall be attached to the body material only. The thread used for attachment shall match the merrowed edge thread color on the emblem.

AMO jacket emblems. The AMO keystone emblem (CBPCBP-078) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The AMO round emblem (CBPOAM-199) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

OFO jacket emblems. The Honor Guard arch shaped emblem (CBPOFO-082) shall be located on the right sleeve 3/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The top of the OFO keystone emblem (CBPOFO-159) shall meet the bottom of the Honor Guard arch shaped emblem. An Honor Guard arch shaped emblem (CBPOFO-082) shall be located on the left sleeve 3/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The top of the OFO round emblem (CBPOFO-160) shall meet the bottom of the Honor Guard arch shaped emblem.

USBP jacket emblems. The USBP keystone emblem (CBPOBP-103) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The USBP round emblem (CBPOBP-104) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

Design. The jacket shall be Pipes and Drum Jacket style. It shall be single-breasted, waist length at the front and hip length on the sides and back, with a mandarin collar and a bi-swing back (Figures 3 through 6). It shall fasten with five button/buttonhole closures. All buttonholes shall be in accordance with ASTM D 6193. It shall have box-X-stitched epaulettes, two breast pockets and two hip pockets with scalloped flaps located on each front panel. The jacket shall be fully lined.

Body detail. (see Figures 3 through 5) The front shall fasten with five button/buttonhole closures. The buttons shall be secured through eyelet-end, straight finish style buttonholes. There shall be a button (flat 4-hole) permanently sewn to the jacket front panel only (not facing) according to the markings on the patterns with the center the button located 1-1/2 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge. The jacket shall fasten left over right. There shall be four (4) stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) on right front following markings on pattern, with the center of each eyelet located 1-1/2 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge. There shall be five (5) horizontal buttonholes on left front following markings on pattern with the edge of the eyelet stitching located 1/2 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge of the front closure. Shank buttons and plain button shall properly engage to buttonholes so that jacket lies flat without bulging. The back shall be a two-piece, pleated bi-swing style. There shall be a seam down the center of the back with a vent at the bottom hem. There shall be contrasting top sleeve cuff overlays, center front collar pieces and epaulettes on the jacket.

Inside detail. (see Figure 6) The inside front panels shall have facings constructed from body material. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. There shall be an opening in the lining-to-facing seam on the right side for button removal. There shall be a single chest kissing welt pocket on each inside front panel. The welts shall be constructed out of body material. The pocket openings shall measure approximately 4-1/2 inches long by 1/2 inch tall with a 6 inch deep pocket bag. The pocket bags shall be constructed of lining material and shall be reinforced at the bottom. Underarm shields shall be bound with lining material, attached to each underarm and stitched down all around to lining shell only. Left and right upper chest pieces shall be reinforced inside of lining from shoulder down to just above underarm shields and across from armhole to edge of front facing. There shall be a hanger loop formed by creating a loop of Braid (MIL-B-371, Type II) with a 1-1/2-inch finished opening, located at center back. The loop shall be inserted into the lining to neck seam and bartacked. The center back shall have a pleat. The pleat shall be 1-1/4 deep at the upper end and shall taper to nothing in accordance with the patterns. The jacket shall have a back vent at the center back.

Pockets. (see Figure 7) There shall be two pockets on each front panel of the jacket, located according to the pattern. One pleated pocket with a scalloped flap shall be located at the chest level, and one faux kissing welt pocket with an attached scalloped flap located at the hip level. There shall be an official shank style removable button in a size, style and color as appropriate to the office in accordance with 3.4.1, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings. Each side of the flaps on the jackets shall be stitched down to the jacket with stitching superimposed over the existing outside row of topstitching so they cannot be turned up.

The chest pockets shall have a center pleat that measures approximately 1-3/8 (±1/8) inches wide. The bottom corners of each pocket shall be rounded. The top edge of each pocket shall be bound with lining material. The pocket exterior measurements shall be 5-5/8 (±1/8) inches wide by 6-1/2 (±1/8) inches tall. The flaps shall be constructed out of body material and lined with lining material. The flap exterior measurements shall be 5-5/8 (±1/8) inches wide by 3 (±1/8) inches tall at the edges and at the center point, and 2-3/4 (±1/8) inches tall at the shortest point (between center point and edges) and in accordance with pattern shapers. There shall be a single 1-inch, no-eye closed lapel-style buttonhole on each pocket flap. Buttonholes shall be vertical, centered between the finished side edges on each flap and with the bottom edge of the buttonhole stitching 1/2 (±1/8) from the point of the flap. Only cut or drill the eyelet if necessary.

The Pipes and Drums Jacket shall have two (2) faux kissing welt pockets with flaps at the hip level. The finished welt dimensions shall be 6-1/2 (±1/8) long by 1/2 (±1/8) inch tall. The flap exterior measurements shall be 6-1/2 (±1/8) inches wide by 3 (±1/8) inches tall at the edges 3 inches tall at the center, and 2-3/4 (±1/8) inches tall at the shortest point (between center point and edges) and in accordance with pattern shapers. There shall be a single 1-inch, no-eye closed lapel-style buttonhole on each pocket flap. Buttonholes shall be vertical, centered between the finished side edges on each flap and with the bottom edge of the buttonhole stitching 1/2 (±1/8) from the point of the flap. Only cut or drill the eyelet if necessary.

Collar. The collar shall be constructed from body material and shall be interlined with fusible interfacing and lined with lining material. The collar shall be attached to the body of the jacket and shall have a finished measurement of 1-3/4 (±1/8) inches wide all around. The front of the mandarin collar shall close with a set of metal clasp with hook on left side and eye on right side. There shall be contrast material at the center front collar, sewn in accordance with the patterns, meeting at the center opening.

Sleeves. The sleeves shall be two-piece gusset style with a 1-7/8-inch header. The sleeve cuffs shall have snaps attached on the inside of the sleeve in accordance with the patterns to adjust the circumference of the sleeves, when worn. The male snap fastener pieces shall be attached to the under sleeve and the female pieces shall be attached to the top sleeve (see Figure 6). There shall be a cuff overlay, of contrast material, sewn, in accordance with the patterns, on top of the sleeve panel body material at the bottom of each sleeve. They shall measure approximately 5-1/2 inches at the center peak and approximately 4 inches at each seam. Only the lower half of each sleeve and the cuff overlay shall have fused interlining attached, and in accordance with the patterns.

Epaulettes. (see Figure 9) Epaulettes shall be constructed using the appropriate contrast material. There shall be functional epaulettes, constructed from two layers of contrast material, centered over each shoulder seam. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. Epaulettes shall be inserted into the armhole seam. They shall be box X-stitched at the armhole end and attached with snaps at the neck end. A male snap fastener shall be attached to the inside of the epaulette, 3/4 inch from the point of the epaulette. The female snap fastener shall be positioned on the shoulder seam to correspond with the male portion, allowing the epaulette to lay flat without twisting, bunching or wrinkling. The epaulettes shall taper, measuring approximately 2 inches at the armhole edge and approximately 1-3/4 (±1/8) inch at the neck edge. The length of the epaulette shall be dependent on the shoulder seam length and shall grade as the jacket increases/decreases in size. The epaulette point shall fall 1/4 (±1/8) inch away from the collar/neck seam. There shall be a single 1 inch no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design on each epaulette. Buttonhole shall be sewn horizontal, centered between the long edges with the bottom edge of the eyelet 1-1/8 (±1/8) inch from the neck end. There shall be an official U.S. Customs and Border Protection, ligne 24, shank style removable button, in a color and style to match the other buttons on the jacket, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings. (see Figure 9) Badge tabs.

AMO and OFO badge tabs. There shall be two stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) above the left breast pocket. They shall be spaced approximately 1-1/4 inch apart, center to center. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 1/2 inch above the top edge of the left breast pocket. Eyelets shall be placed in accordance with pattern markings.

USBP badge tabs. (see Figure 8) There shall be two stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) on the left breast pocket flap. They shall be spaced approximately 1 inch apart, center to center. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 1/2 inch from the bottom edge and 1-1/2 inch away from the edge that is closest to the jacket opening. (see Figure 8) There shall be three stitched, approximately eyelets 5/16 inch in diameter each, with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary), forming a point-down triangle above the left breast pocket. Top eyelets shall be spaced approximately 1 inch apart, center to center. Bottom eyelet shall be centered 1 inch below between top eyelets. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 5/8 inch above the top edge of the left breast pocket. Bottom eyelet shall be centered vertically at the center of the breast pocket, and in accordance with pattern markings.

Nameplate. There shall be two sewn eyelets centers approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) above the right breast pocket. They shall be spaced approximately 1-1/2 inch apart, center to center. The center of each eyelet shall be placed approximately 1/2 inch above the top edge of the right breast pocket. Eyelets shall be placed in accordance with pattern markings.

Label. The label for the jacket shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, care instructions and size. The label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods. The label shall be located 1/2 inch below the right inside welt pocket.

Care instructions. Care instructions shall be as recommended by the suppliers of the materials.

Thread for label. The thread for attaching the label shall be A-A-50199 type I or II, Tex 40. The color for the label shall match the basic material color.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE IV. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (±2) stitches per inch. Buttons for ligne 36 front closure, pocket flaps, epaulettes shall be shank type buttons with washers and O-rings. USBP, 24 ligne buttonholes shall have a 5/8-inch opening. Front closure 36 ligne buttonholes shall have a one inch opening. Waistband button on jacket hem shall be attached with 16 stitches per button and tension set that allows button to easily operate in/out buttonhole. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Waistband and front closure buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, straight finish design with one-inch opening. Pocket flaps and epaulettes use 1-inch-long no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design. (See ASTM 6193, Figure 1.3). Tack ends of all buttonhole stitching and gimp by machine or hand with a vertical bartack centered on both legs of the buttonhole. Front closure buttons (4) are attached via sewn 1/8-inch open diameter eyelets versus remaining attached at eyelet end opening on lapel buttonholes. No stitching operation, including buttonholes and eyelets, shall have thread extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be in accordance with TABLE IV. The jacket shall be constructed using double-needle topstitching, spaced 1/4 inch along top side of chevron V cut on sleeve cuff overlay.

· Breast pockets shall be fused, stitched, lined, turned in and single needle topstitched around three edges with pocket flap fused, lined, and topstitched around 4 edges including lower scalloped edge.

· See TABLE V for bartack applications. Bartacks shall be either:

· 3/8 inch long with 24 to 28 stitches or

· 1/2 inch with 28 to 32 stitches.

· Sewn eyelets shall be 5/16 inch sewn diameter with 5/32 inch center opening (enough for button shank to enter).

· The mandarin collar shall be along all 4 sides with hook and eye metal closure sewn in at each end, hook on right side, eye sewn on left side.

· Pocket flap on left side shall have two sewn eyelets 1 1/8 in on center and closed buttonhole for shank button attachment.

TABLE IV. Seam and stitching types.

TABLE IV. Seam and stitching types. Continued

1/4 inch from edge

Pockets and pocket flaps

1-1/2 inch wide.

1. Jacket rear hem finished appearance shall be similar to SSbe-1 except without part b stitchline through all layers. Rear fused hem line sewn to lining via SSa-1, Turn outer shell back 1-3/4 inch and fold lining out 1 inch and iron such that lining parallel to outer shell 1/ 2 inch.

2. Bind edge of gusset pattern pieces attach SSa-1, 301 to lining

3. Eyelets for shank buttons 1-1/2 inch from edge.

4. 1-inch horizontal eyelet end buttonholes starting 1/2 inch from edge Box-X-stitch. A 2-inch long box-X stitch is tapered evenly to the contour of the existing inside stitching. Wide end of epaulette is inserted into shoulder seam. Epaulette is box-X stitched through shoulder body, but not through lining. Narrow end is secured to the body at the collar end with a snap (male snap on epaulette and female snap on jacket shoulder seam). Closed end buttonhole and 24 ligne shank brass button starting at 1-1/4 inch from epaulette point and snap fastener at 3/4 inch from point.

Bi-swing stitching. Bi-swing pattern piece has no fusible interlining. A piece of 1/4-inch cotton twill tape is sewn into bi-swing outside fold line. The bi-swing fold line shall be stitched closed 3 inches below the top shoulder seam, and 3-1/2 inches above bottom of bi-swing, superimposed on stitching.

Brass belt loop stitching. Place sewn eyelet directly through side seam (continuing underarm seam) marked via pattern. From backside place 1 1/4 inch flat side through eyelet. Tie off ends of beltloop with cotton twill tape via top brass loops and bottom curve, insert reinforcement piece and top stich with 301 around brass unit and twill tape to serve as a reinforcement for belt loop.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the jackets shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1/2 inch for all joining seams and around cuff overlay unless otherwise noted.

· The sleeves shall have a hem allowance of approximately 1-1/2 inch when finished (2-inch turn-up).

· 3/4 inch for joining center back shell fabric.

· 3/8 inch for joining neck to collar, facing to front jacket, and joining the shell and lining for chest pocket and flaps.

· 1/4 inch for attaching pocket flaps to jacket, joining side ends of collar and epaulettes.

Cuff overlay stitching. The cuff overlay for the jacket shall be stitched as follows using 301 type stitching:

1. Add snap fasteners adjusters on underarm seam, 2 – 16 ligne snaps. 3/4 inch from under arm seam and 1-1/2 inch placement of female snap, on opposite side of under arm seam, male snap at 5/8 and 1-1/2 inches.

2. Sew arm sleeve and backside of lining 3/8 inches from edges with SSa-1, turn back lining sharply 1/2 inch.

3. Sew cuff overlay second layer cuff backside to face, 2-1/4 inches back from bottom cuff with SSa-1.

4. Turn cuff overlay top cuff back 1/2 inch and seam LSd-2 with double topstitch along top cuff overlay pattern piece.

5. Sew underarm and top sleeve outer shell and lining closure SSa-1 seams separately.

6. Finished arm sleeve cuff shall be turned back 2 inches from cuff edge to lining with no stitch lines showing externally on cuff or through inside lining. Gauge, 2-needle 301 top stitch starting 1/16 inch along second layer cuff overlay upper edge.

Seam smoothness. When tested in accordance with Table VI, the seams shall have an initial smoothness rating of 5 and rating of 3.5 (minimum) after laundering in accordance with the care label.

Bartacks. To maintain garment durability and functionality, bartacks shall be placed as specified in TABLE V.

TABLE V. Bartack placement

(inches)

Interior of jacket:

Vertical bartack on each end of each inside welt pocket, through welt and lining only.

1/2

28-32

Horizontal bartacks, 3/8 inch on button side facing, 3-3/4 inch up from bottom of coat.

Horizontal bartack 9 inches up from bottom of coat.

· Bartacks form a 5-1/4 inch pocket on each side of the inner portion of the coat.

*one each on tubular webbing spaced about 1/8 - 1/4 inch apart.

Figures. Figures 1-9 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. The pattern list for the jacket in TABLE VI is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE VI.

TABLE VI. List of pattern parts.

TABLE VI. List of pattern parts. Continued

TABLE VI. List of pattern parts. Continued

Manufacturing requirements. The jacket shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the jacket except as a means to facilitate the attachment and removal of buttons and in the eyelets for attachment of a nameplate and badges shall be prohibited.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in this PD or in the contract. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles for epaulettes, pocket flaps, mandarin collar, whole front pieces, inside breast pocket welts, upper front chest pocket, lower front pocket flap welting, front and back hem lines, lapel facing, sleeve hem, other shall be bonded per manufacturers recommended setting using an electric fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron or any steam device. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press capable of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time and temperature for 8 hours. Note that any change in basic material shade may be due to sublimation and would require the all pattern pieces without fusible go through fusing process to maintain shade quality.

Configuration. Each jacket shall conform to appearance (see Figures 3-9), the finished measurements in TABLE VII (as applicable), and the stitches specified in 3.8 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

Finished measurements. The finished jackets shall conform to the measurements listed in TABLE VII.

TABLE VII. Finished measurements (inches).

1/ Waist: Measure across front at narrowest point of waist from folded edge to folded edge with jacket buttoned and laid flat. Measurement doubled.

2/ Shoulder: Measure from arm seam to arm seam passing collar seam.

3/ Back Length: Measure along center back from collar/body seam to bottom of jacket.

4/ Sleeve length: Measure from Center Back Neck Point to shoulder point then along the outer flattened folded edge of sleeve straight to bottom of hem.

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the jacket shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The jacket shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE VIII) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. Jackets shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description. The following critical components shall exhibit finished appearance. Epaulettes, pocket flaps, collar shall be uniformly stitched, smooth and flat, without twisting, gathers, pleats or raw edges with a uniform shape and size, collar shall hug the neck line. Sleeve and sleeve linings shall be uniform in width, pressed smooth and flat and lining shall not be short or tight at bottom of sleeve. Back seam pieces shall be joined evenly, without gathers, puckers or pleats. Vent shall finish smooth and flat. Front darts, pockets and flaps shall be even without pleats or gathers. All pocket and flap top edges shall be parallel to front edge of jacket and even in appearance. Lapel points shall be even across; no stitch lines shall show through face side. Shoulder seams shall exhibit correct fullness, be flat and smooth without distortion and match shoulder line on front patterns. Sleeves shall be set uniformly and even side to side with fullness at front and back armhole without pleats and puckers. Top buttonhole shall be positioned in horizontal alignment with the center of buttons in the breast pocket flaps and parallel with the front edge of the jacket. The remaining four buttonholes shall be evenly spaced 3-1/2 inches apart and parallel with the top buttonhole. Finished jacket shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions. Top of the sleeves shall be blocked and pressed having a rolled effect at front to back. There shall not be any strike through, strike back or residue fusible adhesive on jacket and the jacket shall be capable of being dry-cleaned and steam pressed 25 times without bubbling, delamination, strike through, shrinkage or any sign of sewing threads unravelling or lining material looking out of shape.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Jackets submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Each jacket shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE VIII, material and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished jacket. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements.