PD15-01 Womens Full Length Coat - Final Draft.docx

INCH-POUND

PD15-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, FULL LENGTH, WOMEN’S

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S. Border Patrol (USBP) within U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester/wool Full-Length Coat (FLC), with zip-in insulated liner, intended for wear by female personnel assigned to USBP.

United States Border Patrol. The USBP version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “Female Green Full Length Coat” (CBPOBP-045).

Classification. The coat will be available in one type and one color combination in the following sizes:

Color combination.

Green with navy contrast and gold USBP buttons for wear by the USBP.

Female FLC Sizes. The coat shall be available in even sizes as follows:

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

DEPARTMET OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/)

Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.astm.org/.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE HOME + FASHION (Cotton Products) (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/) Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The twill weave materials for the coat body and contrast (epaulettes and sleeve detail) shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I when tested as specified in TABLE VI, unless otherwise noted. The use of an “equal” or “equivalent” item requires authorization from US Customs and Border Protection.

Lining material. The lining shall meet the requirements of TABLE I when tested as specified in TABLE VI, unless otherwise noted.

Insulated liner material. The insulated liner shell and sleeve fabric shall meet the requirements of TABLE I when tested as specified in TABLE VI, unless otherwise noted. The face side of the sleeve fabric shall be the satin side and shall face the wearer’s skin in the assembled liner.

Pocket material. The pocket pass-throughs shall use coat body fabric. The facing pockets on the coat shall use coat body fabric in the welt and lining fabric for the pocket bag. The facing pocket shall be reinforced.

TABLE I. Material requirements for USBP coat materials.

Poly 55/45 Poly/ Wool 55/45 Poly/ Wool 100 Acetate

Taffeta

Fabric Count, yarns per inch Warp (± 3) Fill (± 2)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

7.5 7.0

6.0 9.0

11.5 7.5

11.5 7.5

2.5 2.5

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings Warp Fill

1.5

2.5 0.5

2.5

3.5

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Seam Smoothness, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4-5

4.5

4.5

4.5

TABLE II. Material requirements for USBP coat materials. Continued

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

3-4 4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5

3-4 4-5

3-4

4-5

*5 Harness (with a 3 counter) Color.

USBP Full Length Coat color. The color for the USBP coat basic fabric shall be PANTONE 19-0414 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-4013 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 19-0312 TC. The color for the shell of the insulated liner used with the USBP FLC shall be PANTONE 19-4006 TC and the color for the insulated liner sleeves shall be PANTONE 19-5708 TC.

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the coat shall match the standard sample or color identified in 3.3.4 when tested as specified in TABLE VII.

Components.

Buttons. The buttons used in the Full Length Coat are specific to each office under US Customs and Border Protection. All metal buttons use shank rings, style 3-06970-0000-4400 and washers, style 3-00818-0000-41900.

USBP Buttons. There shall be eight (8) ligne 36 official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098A) with washers and O-rings for the main opening, two (2) ligne 36 official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098A) with washers and O-rings for the back belt, two (2) ligne 24 official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098) with washers and O-rings for the epaulettes, two (2) ligne 36 official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098A) with washers and O-rings for the back vent and one (1) plain ligne 36 (15/16 inch) polished black button inside of the main opening (right front facing on women’s FLC). There shall be one (1) ligne 18 clear or polished black plastic 4-hole button attached to the underarm seam of the lining inside of each sleeve, located to engage with the buttonhole on the insulated liner. Plastic buttons shall meet V-B-871, style 30, ligne, 36 design requirements from Emsig Mfg co for inside button and style 15, ligne 18 for stay button back reinforcement.

Thread. Thread for seaming the coat, (side, back, under and upper arm-sleeve, shoulder and related armhole or other coat body to body seams) shall be A-A-50199, Type I or Type II, size Tex 46 to 60. All remaining small parts (such as collar, collarstand, shoulder pads), lining seams, lining to lining and lining to coat body), cuffs, front chest pockets, flaps, inside patch pockets, bottom hem, epaulettes, bi-swing assembly, bartacks, eyelets, bartack ends of open and closed eyelet end buttonholes and double -needle topstitching) can be Tex 36 to 45 as an alternate of same thread type. All buttonholes shall use A-A-50198 Cotton Gimp, glazed finish size Tex 210 and all threads shall match coat body shade or per contract requirements. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. Thread used for basting shall be A-A-52094, Type II, Tex 60 nominal or as appropriate.

Fusible interfacing. The interfacing for coat (front left and right pattern pieces, back hem, vent, and shoulders, epaulettes, collar, collar stand, pocket flaps, upper chest badge loop holder, back hem, zipper welting, back panel to collar stand, cuff over-lay, sleeve hems, and, , upper back belt layer) shall be MIL-C-44296, Type III, Style B, Class 1 weft inserted knit fusible between 2.4 to 3.0 ounces per square yard with 18% polyester filament (white warp) / 82% viscose rayon (black weft insert) blend. Fusible tape for hem shall be MIL-C-44296, Type 1X, Style C. Fusible shall be minimum of 175 polyamide fusible dots per square inch and color shall be gray in shade. (see 3.11.1) Cotton twill tape. Cotton twill tape used as hold down for arm sleeve assembly shall be A-A-52071, Type I, 1/2 inch width.

Padding material. Padding for shoulder and sleeve head shall be MIL-P-15064, Type III, Woman’s, Class 3 USMC Overcoats. Finished pad shall measure 4 1/2 (± 1/8) inch at point of widest dimension and 8 (± 1/8) inch straight across the bottom, with a thickness of 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick at vertical center at 0.6 psi with one inch anvil. Sleeve-heads shall be type IV or commercially available polyester-needle punch weighing 3.0 ounce minimum at thickness of 0.050 inches minimum. Use unbleached A-A-52094, Type I or II, size Tex 60 or as appropriate cotton thread for stitching and seaming of pads and sleeve heads.

Snaps. Coats use MIL-DTL-10884, Style 3, Brass, Black oxidized (matte), 16 Ligne (3/8 inch) snaps. Stud shall be centered on epaulette 3/4 inch (1/8) inch from point. Stud assembly on epaulette through lower layer only, socket assembly on shoulder seam to correspond to the epaulette stud without causing twisting, bunching or wrinkling of the epaulette or coat. Snap fastener shall be the YKK 16/H brass Snapet, DK7-0000-359, or equal.

Zipper. The zipper / slide fastener shall be A-A-55634, Type I, Style 7, Brass, size 4.5 for pass - through pockets. Right side facing pocket zipper is Type I, style 7, automatic lock closed ends with a tear drop pull, size 3.0. Zipper is set so slider closes with slider being pulled up. Zipped-in liner zipper shall be Type III, style 8, continuous element fastener, size 4.5. Color of tape for both zippers shall approximately match coat body.

Hanger chain. Stainless steel hanger chain is 4 inches long from center to center of end 3/16 in eyelets. Chain available via WWW.Weavabel.com. Request part 'USA-Army-Weavneckline chain-RAS', Attn: Richard Smaldon or equal.

Emblem patches. There shall be official emblem patches applied to the left and right sleeves of the coat. The sleeve emblems shall be attached to the body material only. The thread used for attachment shall match the merrowed edge thread color on the emblem USBP coat patches. The USBP keystone emblem (CBPOBP-103) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 3/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The USBP round emblem (CBPOBP-104) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 3/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

Design. The coat shall be double breasted and knee-length with a peak lapel (Figures 2 through 4). It shall fasten with four (4) shank button/buttonhole closures, and shall have an additional flat button/buttonhole closure hidden inside of the coat to maintain a flat front. There shall be a single 1-inch buttonhole on each lapel. Each lapel button hole shall engage with its corresponding gold button, on the opposite panel, hidden under the collar. Lapel button-holes shall be placed in accordance with pattern markings. All shank and flat buttons shall properly engage with buttonholes so that the jacket lies flat without twisting or bulging. All buttonholes shall be in accordance with ASTM 6193. It shall have a dart at the front neckline, in accordance with pattern markings. It shall have box-X-stitched epaulettes, and two pass-through hip pockets with stitched- down flaps located on each front panel. It shall have two zippered pass-throughs, one on each panel, parallel to the pass-through pocket flaps. The coat shall be fully lined and have an additional removable quilted thermal liner. The quilted liner shall have bound pass-throughs that will correspond with the coat’s pass-through placements.

Body detail. (see Figures 2 and 3) The front shall fasten with four (4) button/buttonhole closures. The buttons shall be secured through eyelet-end, straight finish style buttonholes. There shall be a button (4-hole) permanently sewn to the coat on the right front panel, level with the top front buttonhole and 5-1/2 inches away, center-to-center.. The coat shall fasten right over left. There shall be four (4) stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) on right front following markings on pattern, with the center of each eyelet located 1 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge. There shall be four (4) horizontal eyelet-end, straight finish design with one-inch opening buttonholes on right front following markings on pattern with the edge of the eyelet stitching located 3/4 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge of the front closure. Shank buttons and plain button shall properly engage to buttonholes so that coat lies flat without bulging. There shall be a seam down the center of the back with a long vent at the bottom hem that is 17 inches long by 2 inches wide. Right and left lapel outer button shall be 5 - ligne 36 brass shank buttons on each side (left and right lapel). The top button is 1-1/2 inches below the lapel break. The rest of the bottom buttons are 5-1/4 inch apart. Each of the under lapel buttons are 5-1/4 inches down from shoulder seams. The coat shall have a stitched-down belt detail across the back panel. The belt shall overlap left over right. The finished belt is 2-3/8 inches wide and shall be stitched into the side seams. The finished belt shall have two 1-inch, no-eye closed lapel-style buttonholes in accordance with pattern markings. Buttonholes shall be horizontal and centered between the top and bottom edges. Only cut or drill the eyelet if necessary. There shall be an official shank style button in a size, style and color in accordance with 3.5, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings.

Inside detail. (see Figure 6) The inside front panels and the back neck shall have facings constructed from body material. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. The back neck facing shall be lined with lining material. The front facings shall have a pleat with a zippered edge to interface with the removable liner. There shall be a single facing pocket on the right inside front panel. The welts shall be constructed out of body material. The pocket openings shall measure approximately 7 inches wide and 3/8 inch deep.. The pocket bags shall be constructed of lining material and shall be reinforced at the bottom . The center back shall have a pleat. The pleat shall measure approximately 1 inch deep at the upper end and shall taper to nothing in accordance with the patterns. The coat shall have a back vent at the center back with finished measurements of 17 inches tall by 2 inches wide, closed by two vertically aligned gold shank USBP buttons 1-1/8 inch from the right back panel edge. Vent buttonholes shall be lapel style closed end buttonholes placed 1-1/8 inch from the edge of the left back panel. Buttons shall go through both shell layers, but not the lining. There shall be a stainless steel chain hanger located on the collarstand, per pattern markings. Eyelets at each end of the chain shall be sewn via button attachment machine with cotton gimp thread. The pass through is located toward the back side (rear) and is parallel to of the pass- thru pocket.. The facing is fused body fabric. The pass-through facing is body fabric no fusible sewn with LSb seam, 301 stitch - 2 inches wide. Insulated coat liner zipper that is attached to the coat is a coil zipper - pin side is on the right of the zipper 15 inches up from the bottom hem and the top stop is on the right side 15 inch up from the bottom hem. The liner zipper shall be backstitched at the ends (the pin side and the top stop side) for coat and liner sides.

Insulated Liner. The coat shall have a zipped-in, removable, full length, quilted insulated liner. There shall be a single shoulder pleat on the front panel, according to pattern markings. The liner shall have buttonholes near the hem of the sleeve to interface with the button on main body sleeve lining.There shall be bound pass-throughs on the Liner to align with the pass-throughs on the main coat.The liner will interface with the coat on the folded edge of the front facing and neck facing construction. See Figures 7 and 8 for illustrations of the insulated liner design.

Pockets. There shall be a hanging pocket on each side of the coat at high hip level with a pass through. The pocket shall have a fused flap stitched down at the top and bottom edges to the body of the coat. The flap shall be 2 inches wide. It shall insert into the coat at 9-1/2 inches long and shall have finished dimensions of 10 inches long at pocket opening. The pocket bag shall be 13 inches deep and 7-1/2 inches wide.

There shall be a double-welt zippered pass-through on each side of the coat dorsal to the high-hip pockets. The opening shall measure 11-1/2 long by 3/8” inch wide and shall close with a zipper from bottom to top.

There shall be a zippered, double welt facing pocket on the left front facing. The pocket opening measures 7 inches long by 3/8 inch deep. The pocket bags shall be constructed of lining material and shall be reinforced at the bottom with coat body material.

Collar. The collar shall be constructed from body material and shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. The collar and collarstand shall be attached to the lining. The collar shall have a finished measurement of 2-5/8 inches and the collarstand 1-1/4 inches long at the center back. The collar points shall measure approximately 3-1/8 inches long. The under collar shall be constructed from coat body material. The peak of the lapel shall measure approximately 3-1/2 inches long, thus measuring approximately 3/8 inch longer than the collar point. The open notch between the collar point and the lapel shall measure approximately 1/2 inch. The lapel shall break approximately 1-3/4 inches above the top buttonhole.

Sleeves. The sleeves shall be two-piece style with a 1-7/8-inch header. There shall be a cuff overlay of contrast material sewn, in accordance with the patterns, on the top sleeve at the bottom end of the sleeve. They shall measure approximately 6 inches tall at the center peak and approximately 4 inches tall at each seam. Only the lower half of each sleeve and the cuff overlay shall have fused interlining attached, in accordance with the patterns.

Epaulettes. Epaulettes (Figure 7) shall be constructed using the appropriate contrast material. There shall be functional epaulettes, constructed from two layers of contrast material, centered over each shoulder seam. A male snap type fastener shall be attached to the epaulette, 3/4 inch from the point of the epaulette. The female snap fastener shall be positioned on the shoulder seam to correspond with the male portion, allowing the epaulette to lay flat without twisting, bunching or wrinkling. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. Epaulettes shall be inserted into the armhole seam. They shall be box X-stitched at the armhole end and attached with snaps at the neck end. The epaulettes shall taper to a point, measuring approximately 2 inches at the armhole edge and approximately 1-3/4 inch at the neck edge prior to tapering to a point. The length of the epaulette shall be dependent on the shoulder seam length and shall grade as the coat increases/decreases in size. The point of the epaulette shall fall 1/2 inch from neck to collar seam. There shall be a single 1 inch no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design on each epaulette. Buttonhole shall be sewn parallel with and centered between the long edges with the bottom edge of the eyelet 1-1/4 (±1/8) inch from the neck end. There shall be an official U.S. Customs and Border Protection, ligne 24, shank style removable button, in a color and style to match the other buttons on the coat, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings.

Badge tabs. There shall be a 2-1/2 inch long by 1 inch wide sewn strip of body material with two stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) sewn according to the patterns. They shall be spaced approximately 1-1/8 inch apart, center to center.

Label. The label for the coat and the insulated liner shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, care instructions and size. The label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods. The label shall be located according to the patterns.

Care instructions. Care instructions shall be as recommended by the suppliers of the materials.

Thread for label. The thread for attaching the label shall be A-A-50199 type I or II, Tex 40. The color for the label shall match the basic material color.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE II. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (±2) stitches per inch. Buttons for ligne 36 front closure, pocket flaps, epaulettes shall be shank type buttons with washers and O-rings. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Front closure buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, straight finish design with one-inch opening. Epaulettes use 1-inch-long no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design. (See ASTM D 6193, Figure 1.3). Tack ends of all buttonhole stitching and gimp by machine or hand with a vertical bartack centered on both legs of the buttonhole. Front closure buttons (4) are attached via sewn 1/8-inch open diameter eyelets versus remaining attached at eyelet end opening on lapel buttonholes. No buttonhole or eyelets shall have thread extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be in accordance with TABLE II. The coat shall be constructed using double-needle topstitching, spaced 1/4 inch apart unless otherwise stated in the patterns. Coat parts using1/4-inch double-needle topstitching include: Top of sleeve overlay, epaulettes (3 sides), top collar edging, pocket flap (3 sides), 2 button back belt assembly, lapel fronts, vents.

The insulated liner will be quilted in a straight stitch pattern 4 inches apart, with 100% polyester taffeta outer material as defined in TABLE I. The batting insulation used will be 3M Thinsulate ® Type C, 100 gram (C100) with two light scrim materials (one on either side of the Thinsulate® with a total thickness not more than 0.075 inch. The scrim material weight shall be approximately 0.38 ounces per square yard. The stitch shall be a 301 stitch type and shall be sewn at 9-12 stitches per inch.

· Bartacks shall be 1/4 inch long with 14 to 16 stitches (buttonholes sewn in separate steps)

· Chain attachment stitchline shall not penetrate through outside collar stand".

· Sewn eyelets shall be 5/16 inch sewn diameter with 1/8 inch center opening (enough for button shank to enter).

· Center back seam assembly consists of three separate stitch lines. Two that are overlaid then folded and stitched to keep it flat such as a LSka-2 seam.

· Finished appearance of center back seam shall be 1/4 inch double needle stitchline from the top neck to the bottom hem line.

· Lapel double stitchline runs from collar to the bottom of the coat hem.

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types.

Coat

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types. Continued

Coat

Insulated Liner

1/ Fold hem line 1-1/2 inches with fusible tape then turn lining 1/2 inch more and iron it for finished appearance 1/2 inch from hem of main body fabric.

2/ Attach button 2-3/4 inch from the bottom sleeve hem through the lining and in line with the bottom sleeve seam. The lining is turned at 3/4 inch from stitch line and ironed.

3/ Bag pocket made of lining material. Coil zipper and tear drop pull. Welted on face side only. Third layer is zipper even with the middle layer.

4/ Zipper tape is sewn to a body fabric fused welting at 1/4 inch from zipper teeth. Top stitched all around 1/16 inch. Zipper is pulled up to close. Zipper opening is 11 inches - sewn together with fabric, welt, fusible and lining.

5/ Final stitch is a top stitch attaching top welt to the bottom welt and the bottom welt contains the lining.

6/ Pass through is to the back side (rear) and has the same entry as the pocket (a). The facing is fused to outer layer body fabric. The pass through facing is body fabric no fusible sewn with LSb seam, 301 stitch - 2 inches wide.

7/ Opening 9-3/4 inch - body fused fabric welt folded over single layer fabric overedged and sewn to lining 1/4 inch away and 1/2 inch double stitch. Welting is 1 inch fused body fabric facing 1/4 inch then lining is turned and top stitched 1/2 inch.

8/ The back neck facing is part of the liner zipper assembly. Inside collar stand chain hanger attachment via 2 hole button attachment stitch through the eyelets of the chain ends. Three and a half inches on center of eyelets using cotton gimp sewing thread.

9/Top and bottom edge stitching and inserted into the left and right side seams. Fused 5 inches on the side that doesn't have the top strap.

10/ Two shank buttons penetrate through the back side of coat through body fabric only.

11/ Attach the shoulder pad and sleeve head assembly to the sleeve and shoulder pieces - centered on each other and stitched. Sleeve head is type IV of MIL-P-1506G; Pads, shoulder and Sleeve-Head.

12/Attach tape to center shoulder seam through all layers.

13/Attach shoulder pad centered on the upper shoulder seam going through all layers.

Box-X-stitch. A 2 inch long box-X stitch is tapered evenly to the contour of the existing inside stitching. Wide end of epaulette is inserted into shoulder seam. Epaulette is box-X stitched through shoulder body, but not through lining.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the coats shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1/2 inch for all joining seams unless otherwise noted.

· The sleeves shall have a hem allowance of approximately 1-1/2 inch when finished (2-inch turn-up).

· 3/4 inch for joining center back coat body fabric.

· 1/4 inch for joining collar to collarstand.

· 3/8 inch for joining edges of top and under collar, collar to neck, facing to front coat, and joining the coat body and lining for chest pocket and flaps.

· 1/4 inch for attaching pocket flaps to coat, joining side ends of top and under collar and epaulettes.

Cuff overlay stitching. The cuff overlay for the jacket shall be stitched as follows using 301 type stitching:

1. Sew under arm and backside of sleeve lining 3/8 inches from edges with SSa-1, turn back lining sharply 1/2 inch.

2. Align hem lines on Cuff Overlay and Top Sleeve, face-to-face, so that Cuff Overlay peak points away from the sleeve cap. Sew along hem line, edge-to-edge, using a 301-type stitch.

3. Turn Cuff Overlay back, so that the peak now points toward the cap-end of the seam. Turn back the seam allowance on the top curves of the Cuff Overlayand seam LSd-2 with double topstitch along top Cuff Overlay pattern piece. Gauge, 2-needle 301 top stich starting 1/16 inch Cuff Overlay upper edge.

4. Sew sleeve shell components together, and perform corresponding operation to sleeve lining components, using SSa-1 seams.

5. Finished sleeve hem shall be turned back along hem line, so that Overlay bottom edge and sleeve hem are flush. Sleeve shell and sleeve lining bottom edges shall be aligned edge-to-edge and sewn using 1/2 inch seam allowance withno stitch lines showing externally on cuff or through inside lining.

Bartacks. If buttonholes are sewn using separate steps, bartacks used shall be 1/4 inch and 14-16 stitches per tack.

Seam smoothness. When tested in accordance with Table VI, the seams shall have an initial smoothness rating of 5 and rating of 3.5 (minimum) after laundering in accordance with the care label.

Figures. Figures 1-9 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. The pattern list for the coat in TABLE III is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the coat shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts. Continued

Manufacturing requirements. The coat shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the coat except as a means to facilitate the attachment and removal of buttons and in the eyelets for attachment of a nameplate and badges shall be prohibited.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in this PD or in the contract. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles shall be bonded per manufacturers recommended setting using a fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron or any steam device. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press capable of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time and temperature for 8 hours. Note that any change in basic material shade may be due to sublimation and would require the all pattern pieces without fusible go through fusing process to maintain shade quality.

Configuration. Each coat shall conform to appearance (see Figures 2-7), the finished measurements in TABLE IV (as applicable), and the stitches specified in 3.8 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

DRAFT PD15-01

Finished measurements. The finished coats shall conform to the measurements listed in TABLE IV below.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches). 28

Tolerance (inch)

1/ Half chest measurement: Measure across front at armhole seam from folded edge to folded edge with coat buttoned and laid flat.

2/ Across Shoulder: Measure across shoulder from shoulder seam to collar seam to shoulder seam with coat buttoned and laid flat.

3/Half Waist: Measure across front at narrowest part of waist from folded edge to folded edge with coat buttoned and laid flat.

4/ Back Length: Measure along center back from collar/body seam to bottom of coat.

5/ Sleeve Inseam: Measure from front underarm seam, where the coat and sleeve join, along seam to bottom of sleeve.

DRAFT PD15-01

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished coat shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the coat shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The coat shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE V) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. Coats shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

The following critical components shall exhibit finished appearance.

· Epaulettes, pocket flaps, collar shall be uniformly stitched, smooth and flat, without twisting, gathers, pleats or raw edges with a uniform shape and size, collar shall hug the neck line.

· Sleeve and sleeve linings shall be uniform in width, pressed smooth and flat and lining shall not be short or tight at bottom of sleeve. Sleeves shall be set uniformly and even side to side with fullness at front and back armhole without pleats and puckers. Top of the sleeves shall be blocked and pressed having a rolled effect at front to back.

· Back seam pieces shall be joined evenly, without gathers, puckers or pleats.

· Vent shall finish smooth and flat.

· Pockets and flaps shall be even without pleats or gathers. All pocket and flap top edges shall be parallel to front edge of coat and even in appearance. Fused pocket flap opening (to the front) is 9-1/2 inches by 2 inches wide. Pocket bag is made of body material.

· Lapel points shall be even across; no joining stitch lines shall show through face side.

· Shoulder seams shall exhibit correct fullness, be flat and smooth without distortion and match shoulder line on front patterns.

· The four front closure buttonholes shall be horizontal and parallel to each other. They shall be evenly spaced at 5-1/4 inches, with the top buttonhole being 1-1/2 inch below the lapel break. All buttonholes are 3/4 inch in from finished front edge.

· Finished coat shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions.

· There shall not be any strike through, strike back or residue fusible adhesive on coat and the coat shall be capable of being dry-cleaned and steam pressed 25 times without bubbling, delamination, strike through, shrinkage or any sign of sewing threads unravelling or lining material looking out of shape.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Coats submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Each coat shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE V, material and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished coat. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE V. End item visual examination

Knots greater than Sears Scale Level C1/ (See 2.3)

Slubs greater than Sears Scale Level D1/ (See 2.3)

Not specified type, size or color

Color or type not as specified

Size, combination identification/care labels not placed correctly

Hangtags/UPC labels not placed securely attached in correct position

Barcode/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item

TABLE V. End item visual examination - Continued

Loose stitching, incorrect number of stitches

Button holes not as specified

Buttonholes not cleanly cut to required opening size

Loose or tight stitch tension

Less than 1/2 inch in length

Seam allowance not as required by stitch type

Cleanness/ Workmanship

Excessive thread ends (more than 3)

Between 1/4 to 1-1/2 inch

All closures on coat not engaged

1/ Using SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Scales End item dimensional examination. The coat shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TABLE IV.

Component and end item testing. Components and end item for the Full Length Coats shall be tested in accordance with TABLE VI. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE VI. Material and end item testing.

AATCC 1582/

Colorfastness to:

Light after 40 hours

TABLE I

AATCC-16 Option 33/

Dry cleaning (3X)

AATCC-132

Crocking (dry and wet)

AATCC-8 4/

Perspiration (acid and alkaline)

AATCC-155/