PD16-01 Mens Dress Shirt LS and SS - Final Draft.docx

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Product Demonstration Models (clothing) Based on Supplied Purchase Descriptions and Patterns
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INCH-POUND

PD16-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, DRESS, LONG AND SHORT SLEEVE, MALE

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Air and Marine Operations (AMO) and the Office of Field Operations (OFO).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for Long and Short Sleeve Dress Shirts intended for wear by male personnel of the CBP as part of the dress uniform.

Air and Marine Operations. The AMO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “Male Tan Short Sleeve Dress Shirt” (CBPOAM-004) and “Male Tan Long Sleeve Dress Shirt” (CBPOAM-006) Office of Field Operations. The OFO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “Male Navy Short Sleeve Dress Shirt” (CBPOFO-220) and “Male Navy Long Sleeve Dress Shirt” (CBPOFO-218).

Classification. The dress shirt will be available in two (2) types in the sizes as cited in 1.2.1.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

DRAFT PD16-01

Types and Sizes.

Type A (Short Sleeve) Size Abbreviation

Small(SM)
Medium(MD)
Medium-Long(M-L)
Large(LG)
Large-Long(L-L)
Extra Large(XL)
Extra Large-Long(XL-L)
2 Extra Large(2XL)

2 Extra Large-Long (2XL-L 3 Extra Large (3XL) 3 Extra Large-Long (3XL-L) 4 Extra Large (4XL) 4 Extra Large-Long (4XL-L)

Type B (Long Sleeve) Neck Size – Sleeve Length:

14.5-31 through 34
15-31 through 35
15.5-31 through 36
16-31 through 36
16.5-31 through 36
17-31 through 37
17.5-31 through 37
18-31 through 37
18.5-31 through 37
19-31 through 38
19.5-31 through 38
20-31 through 36

DRAFT PD16-01

PD16-01

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered
A-A-55126Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic
A-A-59963Thread, Polyester

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 8Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
AATCC Test Method 15Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC Test Method 16.3Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc
AATCC-Test Method 20AFiber Analysis: Quantitative
AATCC Test Method 61Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

AATCC Test Method 88C AATCC Test Method 88B AATCC Test Method 117 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC Test Method 124

AATCC Test Method 132Colorfastness to Drycleaning
AATCC Test Method 135Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1Gray Scale for Color Change
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2Gray Scale for Staining
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D629Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
ASTM D737Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics
ASTM D1424Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus
ASTM D3775Standard Test Method for Fabric count of Woven Fabrics
ASTM D3776Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric
ASTM D5034Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
ASTM D6193Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE Color Matching System (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/) Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted in the contract, in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The plain weave materials for the dress shirt shall conform to the requirements in Tables I and II when tested as specified in Table VIII, unless otherwise noted.

Lining cloth. The twill weave material for the inside back yoke and collarstand shall conform to the requirements in Tables I and II when tested as specified in Table VIII, unless otherwise noted.

TABLE I. AMO Dress shirt material requirements.

Characteristic
Requirement
Basic Cloth
Lining Cloth
Weave
Plain
2/1 RH Twill
Fiber content, percent (±2% for Basic Cloth)
75/25 Poly/Wool
100 Polyester
Weight, ounces/square yard (±0.3)
5.9
2.3

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

9.0 7.5

7.0 6.0

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Fabric Appearance Initial After 5 Launderings

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) after 3 launderings Warp Fill

0.5 1.0

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering - after 3 cycles Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

3-4

4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4

4-5 3-4 4-5 4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Light

4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Crocking Dry Wet

4.5

TABLE I. AMO Dress shirt material requirements. Continued

Characteristic
Requirement
Basic Cloth
Lining Cloth

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Acidic Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

Dry Cleaning Color Change

4-5

Pilling (Average)
5
5
Air Permeability, CFM (±10)
144
15

TABLE III. OFO Dress shirt material requirements.

Characteristic
Requirement
Basic Cloth
Lining Cloth
Weave
Plain
2/1 RH Twill
Fiber content, percent (±2% for Basic Cloth)
75/25 Poly/Wool
100 Polyester
Weight, ounces/square yard (±0.3)
5.9
2.3

Fabric Count, yarns per inch Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

9.3 7.9

7.4 6.0

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Fabric Appearance Initial After 5 Launderings

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum shrinkage or growth) after 3 launderings Warp Fill

0.8

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering - after 3 cycles Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Light

4-5

3-4

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Crocking Dry Wet

TABLE II. OFO Dress shirt material requirements. Continued

Characteristic
Requirement
Basic Cloth
Lining Cloth

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5

4-5 4-5 4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Acidic Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5 4-5

Dry Cleaning Color Change

4-5

4-5

Pilling (Average)
5
5
Air Permeability, CFM (±5)
144
15

Color (Type A and B).

AMO dress shirt color. The color for the AMO dress shirt basic cloth (Type A and Type B) shall be PANTONE 16-1107TC and the lining material color shall be PANTONE 17-1022TC when tested as specified in Table VIII.

OFO dress shirt color. The color for the OFO dress shirt basic cloth (Type A and Type B) shall be PANTONE 19-4013TC and the lining material color shall be PANTONE 19-4205TC when tested as specified in Table VIII.

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the Type A and Type B dress shirt and components shall match the standard sample for the colors cited in 3.3.3 when tested as specified in Table VIII.

Components. The buttons, thread, interfacings and collar stays shall be the specified color. All components shall be of good quality and free from defects as specified in Table VII and shall be placed according to patterns.

Buttons. The buttons shall be ligne 20 (1/2 inch), style 29 polished pattern or equivalent, per US button Standard Book (see 2.2) with four (4) holes and the color shall approximate the basic cloth color cited in 3.3.3 as appropriate to the office, unless otherwise stated in the contract or solicitation. The dress shirts shall have seven (7) front closure buttons, one button attached centered on each faux buttonhole on the pocket flaps, and one on each shoulder to engage with the functional epaulette (Figure 7). In addition, Type B dress shirts shall have two buttons on each sleeve cuff, and one on each sleeve placket. Buttons shall be located 3/4 (±1/8) inch away (to center of the button) from finished edge of front closure, 5/8 (±1/8) inch away (to center of the button) from finished edge of cuff and placket. All buttonholes shall be located according to the pattern templates. Front closure buttons and sleeve placket buttons shall be centered on the buttonholes. Buttons shall engage without causing twisting, bunching or wrinkling of the shirt and cuff.

Thread. The thread for the primary seams (side seams, inseams, and arm sleeve seams) shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex 60 continuous filament cotton or polyester staple wrap. The color shall approximate tan (PANTONE 16-1107TC) or navy (PANTONE 19-4013TC) as appropriate to the office, unless otherwise stated below or in the contract (see 6.5.3). Thread for the secondary seams (pockets, pockets flaps, collar stand [Type B dress shirt], hem, cuffs, epaulettes, and other small parts) shall be Tex 40 same thread type. Thread for buttons and button holes shall be Tex 31-35, 2 ply polyester core cotton wrap or as an alternative, conform to A-A-59963, Type I, Class 1, Tex 30 (polyester).

Collar stays. The collar stays shall be single point and permanent.

Fusible interfacing. For short sleeve (Type A) dress shirt, fusible is used in the collar, epaulettes, pocket flaps, badge strip, yoke, front placket (button hole side only) and cuffs. For long sleeve (Type B) dress shirt, fusible is used in the collar, collar stand, epaulettes, pocket flaps, badge strip, yoke and front placket (button hole side only). The interfacing for the dress shirt shall be MIL-C- 44296, Type V, lightweight thermobonded fusible, nonwoven, white, 70% Nylon/30% Polyester, 1.2 ounce with minimum of 175 fusible dots (Polyamide) per square inch. (see 3.10.3) Hook and loop fastener. The hook and loop fastener for the chest pocket flaps shall be A-A-55126; Type II Hook, Class I or IV Loop. The size of the hook and loop shall be 1 inch long by 1/2 inch wide.

Permanent creases. Each shirt shall have a continuous 1/16 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive nonstaining bead applied to the back side of the basic fabric to form permanent creases. The creases shall be positioned in accordance with markings on the patterns. There shall be one crease on each front panel, in line with the center of each of the chest pockets. There shall be three creases on the back of each shirt; one centered on the back of the shirt and one on each side, centered between the center crease and the side seams. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the top of the appropriate panel to the hem. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the creases. The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto face of material or increased stiffness. The shirt shall have a minimum rating of "3" when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) in accordance with care instruction label.

Emblem patches. There shall be official emblem patches applied to the left and right sleeves of the dress shirt. The thread used for attachment shall match the merrowed edge thread color on the emblem.

AMO emblems. The official U.S. Customs and Border Protection keystone emblem (CBPCBP-078) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 1-1/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The appropriate AMO office emblem (CBPOAM-199) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 1-1/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

OFO emblems. The official U.S. Customs and Border Protection keystone emblem (CBPOFO-159) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 1-1/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The appropriate OFO office emblem (CBPOFO-160) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 1-1/4 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

Design. The Type A dress shirt (see Figures 1 and 2) shall be short sleeve and have a one-piece collar. The Type B dress shirt (see Figures 3 and 4) shall be long sleeve with button cuffs with plackets, pleated sleeves with the direction going toward the back, and a collar and collarstand. The collar for both types shall contain collar stays (see 3.6.4). Both types shall have a back yoke, a front placket, functional epaulettes with a button closure, have patches on either sleeve and have two (2) hex shaped chest pockets (see Figure 6) with inverted pleats, scalloped flaps and a button. The left breast pocket of the dress shirts shall also have one (1) pen pocket inside. The location of the buttonholes for both types shall be in accordance with the marks on the pattern templates. A badge tab shall be sewn, in accordance with the markings on the patterns, on the inside of the left chest pocket. A name strip, shall be sewn above the right chest pocket and sewn eyelet position in accordance with markings on the patterns. The top and bottom plies of the epaulets, collarstand and the chest pocket flaps shall have a fusible interlining. The under collar, cuff (Type B) and front placket area on the buttonhole side (see Figures 1 and 3) shall have a fusible interlining. The dress shirts shall have permanent silicone creases; three (3) creases on the back, and one (1) crease on each side of the front of the dress shirt positioned in accordance with the marks on the pattern. The creases shall have a continuous appearance on the front through the dress shirt, lining up with the center of the inverted pleats on the chest pockets and shall remain after 20 launderings.

Pockets. (see Figure 6) There shall be one pocket on each front panel of the dress shirt at the chest level, located according to the pattern. Scalloped pocket flaps shall have a faux buttonhole with an attached button. The underside of the pocket flap shall have two pieces of loop fastener that align with the pieces of hook fastener attached to the pocket, in accordance with the pattern. The upper edge seam of the left chest pocket flap shall have an opening that allows the use of the pen pocket.

Sleeves. The sleeves shall be one-piece style with an inseam. The long-sleeve dress shirt (Type B) cuffs shall have plackets and buttons attached in accordance with the patterns to close the cuff, when worn.

Label. The identification label for the dress shirt shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, care instructions and size. The label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the Textile Products Identification Act and Care Labeling Act. The label shall be located at the back of the dress shirt, centered on the inside yoke.

Care instructions label. Care instructions shall be as recommended by the suppliers of the materials. The care instructions label shall be caught in the hem of the left front panel of the dress shirts.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in Table III. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (± 1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 stitches per button and tension set that allows button to easily operate in/out buttonhole. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Buttonholes shall be of a straight design (see ASTM D 6193, Figure X1.5) with opening set at 1/2 inch with no buttonhole threads extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be in accordance with Table III.

TABLE III. Seam and stitching types.

Seam Placement
Seam Type
Gauge
Stitch Type
Side and sleeve inseams
SSa-2
5/16 inch
515 or 516
Dress shirt hem
Efb-1
1/4 inch finished
301
Collar 1/
SSc-1
1/4 inch
301
Collarstand to collar (Type B only) 2/
LSe-1
1/8 inch
301
Collarstand to top of yoke (Type B only)
LSe-1
1/8 inch
301
Yoke (Type A only) lining material (back neck panel)
Efd-1
1/4 inch
503/504
Back neck to collar (Type A only)
LSb-1
1/8 inch
301
Yoke to shell material (Type A and Type B)
LSb-1
1/8 inch
301
Cuff (Type B only)3/
SSc-1
1/4 inch
301 on three sides
Cuff to sleeve (Type B only)
LSe-2
1/4 inch
301 double needle
Arm Sleeve Cuff Placard
LSe-1
1/8 inch
301
Pocket flap 4/ 5/
LSd-2
1/4 inch
301 on three sides
Loop fastener on Pocket Flap
--
3/8 inch
Bartack
Pocket pleat
Osf
1 1/2 inches
301

TABLE III. Seam and stitching types. - Continued

Seam Placement
Seam Type
Gauge
Stitch Type
Pocket 6/
LSd-1
1/8 inch
301 on three sides
Pocket top hem
EFa-1
1/2 inch
301
Hook on pocket (left/right)
--
3/8 inch
Bartack
Name Plate Pin Strip 7/
Efu-1
1/2 inch belt loop
301
Badge Pin Strip 7/
SSc-1
1/8 inch
301
Epaulette (fused) 8/
SSc-1
1/8 inch
301
Front Placket, buttonhole side (Type B only) 9/
Efv-1
1/4 inch finished
301
Front Placket, buttonhole side, (Type A only) 10/
9/
1/4 inch finished
301/304
Front Placket, button side 11/
Efb-1
3/4 inch
301

1/ Plastic collar stay at points sewn (bartacked) to fusible. Fusible material on inside of the collar.

2/ Contains fusible with lining material on the inside. Collar stand outershell fused with lining material.

3/ Button hole is 2 inches above the cuff and matching button is 2 1/4 above cuff.

4/ Fused with button and no eye lapel ASTM D 6193, Figure X1.3 5/ Left side flap will have pencil opening 1 inch wide with box stitch on one side and four inch box double needle 301 stitching.

6/ Triangle stitch on each side of top. Left side pencil pocket shall have 301 stitch line vertically through entire pocket (1 3/8 inch wide).

7/ See 3.8.1.1 8/ Button hole 1/2 inch from point. Tucked into the sleeve shoulder seam. Matching button on yoke per pattern.

9/ Distance between stitch lines is 7/8 inch 10/ Apply fusible 3 inches from edge and turn sharply 1/4 inch. Apply fusible per pattern and other edge of fusible turn sharply 3/8 inch and top stitch 301 or 401 stitch through single ply material with 7/8 inch apart without going through the back side of the material.

11/ Buttons shall be sewn through two layers of the placket Name plate and badge pin strips. Name plate pin strip, on right side front above pocket, shall finish to 1/2" wide, 3-1/2" long ± 1/8, then attached with 2 no hole eyelets, 1-5/8 inch apart (center to center), stitched through body fabric with 301 top stitch all around (3/8inch gauge) following markings on pattern. Badge Pin tab, inside left front is sewn into the shoulder of the back yoke and centered with pinstripe, bottom is folded and top stitched into the dress shirt material only. tab (LSd-2, 301, 1/8 inch). Badge pin strip is horizontal on left side front above pocket. Made with 9-1/2 inch long by 1-1/4 inch wide body material with 2 closed button holes through all layers , spaced 1-1/4 inch apart center to center, in line with vertical pleat.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the dress shirts shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1/2 inch for all joining seams, unless otherwise noted.

· 1/8 inch for sleeve patch attachment.

· 3/8 inch for joining the collarstand to neckline, and the pockets.

· 1/4 inch to join the collarstand to collar and for the collar, cuffs, pocket flaps and epaulets.

· 1/2-inch seam allowance for dress shirt hem, folded twice with a 1/4-inch topstitch.

· 1-1/4-inch seam allowance for Type A sleeve hem (3/8-inch fold and 3/4-inch topstitch) Figures. Figures 1-7 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. Table III is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the dress shirts shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with Table III.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Piece Nomenclature
Piece Description
Cut Parts
Fabric
PD16-RIGHT-FRONT-A
RIGHT FRONT TYPE A
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-LEFT-FRONT-A
LEFT FRONT TYPE A
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-SLEEVE-A
SLEEVE TYPE A
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-RIGHT-FRONT-B
RIGHT FRONT TYPE B
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-LEFT-FRONT-B
LEFT FRONT TYPE B
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-SLEEVE-B
SLEEVE TYPE B
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-SLEEEVE-B-FACIN
SLEEVE B FACING
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-CUFF-SLV-B
CUFF SLV B
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-BACK
BACK
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-YOKE
YOKE
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-COLLAR
COLLAR
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-EPAULETTE
EPAULETTE
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-RIGHT-POCKET
RIGHT POCKET
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-LEFT-POCKET
LEFT POCKET
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-POCKET-FLAP
POCKET FLAP
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-BADGE-TAB
BADGE TAB
2
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-NAME-STRIP
NAME STRIP
1
BASIC CLOTH
PD16-YOKE-LIN
YOKE LINING
1
LINING

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts. (Continued)

Piece Nomenclature
Piece Description
Cut Parts
Fabric
PD16-COLLAR-BAND-LIN
COLLAR BAND LINING
1
LINING
PD16-CUFF-FUS-SLV-B
CUFF FUSIBLE SLEEVE B
2
FUSIBLE
PD16-COLLAR-FUSIBLE
COLLAR FUSIBLE
1
FUSIBLE
PD16-COLLAR-BAND-FUS
COLLAR BAND FUSIBLE
1
FUSIBLE
PD16-EPAULETTE-FUS
EPAULETTE FUSIBLE
2
FUSIBLE
PD16-POCKET-FLAP-FUS
POCKET FLAP FUSIBLE
2
FUSIBLE
PD16-BADGE-TAB-FUS
BADGE TAB FUSIBLE
1
FUSIBLE
PD16-EPAULETTE-TEMP
EPAULETTE TEMPLATE
0
TEMPLATE
PD16-L-FR-BH-TEMP-A
L F BUTTONHOLE TEMP A
0
TEMPLATE
PD16-L-FR-BH-TEMP-B
L F BUTTONHOLE TEMP B
0
TEMPLATE
PD16-SLV-CF-BH-TEM-B
SLV CUFF BH TEMP B
0
TEMPLATE

Manufacturing requirements. The dress shirts shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the dress shirt is prohibited.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in the solicitation. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles listed in 3.4.4 shall be bonded per manufacturer's recommended settings using an electric fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron.

Configuration. Each dress shirt shall conform to appearance (see Figures 1-7), the finished measurements in Table V (as applicable), and the construction methods specified in 3.10.3 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

DRAFT PD16-01

Finished measurements. The dress shirt shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Tables V A, B and C. These tables contain the sizes cited in section 1. Tables V(A) includes center back lengths for selected sleeve lengths.

TABLE V (A). Finished measurements (inches) Types A and B.

Pattern Size 1/

Size

Alpha Size

Neck Opening 2/

Chest 3/

Shoulder Width 4/

Center Back Length 5/ (by sleeve length)

Type A Short Sleeve 6/

Type B Long Sleeve 7/

SS

SS2

SSL

32-33

RG

34-35

LN

36-37

XLN

38-39

2XLN

32-33

SS=RG

34-35

SS2=LN

36-37

SSL=XLN

32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
14033
14
14-1/4
40
16-1/2
32-1/8
34-1/8
36-1/8
32-1/8
33-5/8
36-1/8
38-1/8
19-1/8
19-1/8
20-1/8
14533
14.5
S
14-3/4
42
17-1/4
32-1/4
34-1/4
36-1/4
32-1/4
33-3/4
36-1/4
38-1/4
19-1/4
19-1/4
20-1/4
15033
15
15-1/4
44
18
32-1/2
34-1/2
36-1/2
32-1/2
34
36-1/2
38-1/2
19-3/4
19-3/4
20-3/4
15533
15.5
M
15-3/4
46
18-3/4
32-5/8
34-5/8
36-5/8
32-5/8
34-1/8
36-5/8
38-5/8
20-1/4
20-1/4
21-1/4
16033
16
16-1/4
48
19-1/2
34-1/4
34-78
36-7/8
32-7/8
34-3/8
36-7/8
38-7/8
20-3/4
20-3/4
21-3/4
16533
16.5
L
16-3/4
50
20-1/4
34-1/2
35
37
33
34-1/2
37
39
21-1/4
21-1/4
22-1/4
17033
17
17-1/4
52
21
34-3/4
35-1/4
37-1/4
33-1/4
34-3/4
37-1/4
39-1/4
21-3/4
21-3/4
22-3/4
17533
17.5
XL
17-3/4
54
21-3/4
34-7/8
35-3/8
37-3/8
33-3/8
34-7/8
37-3/8
39-3/8
22-1/4
22-1/4
23-1/4
18033
18
18-1/4
56
22-1/2
35-1/8
35-58
37-5/8
33-5/8
35-1/8
37-5/8
39-5/8
22-3/4
22-3/4
23-3/4
18533
18.5
2XL
18-3/4
58
23-1/4
35-1/4
35-3/4
37-3/4
33-3/4
35-1/4
37-3/4
39-3/4
23-1/4
23-1/4
24-1/4
32-1/4
33-1/4
34-1/4
35-1/4
36-1/4
37-1/4
38-1/4
39-1/4
19033
19
19-1/4
60
24
35-1/2
36
38
34
35-1/2
38
40
23-3/4
23-3/4
24-3/4
19533
19.5
3XL
19-3/4
62
24-3/4
35-5/8
36-1/8
38-1/8
34-1/8
35-5/8
38-1/8
40-1/8
24-1/4
24-1/4
25-1/4
20033
20
20-1/4
64
25-1/2
35-7/8
36-3/8
38-3/8
34-3/8
35-7/8
38-3/8
40-3/8
24-3/4
24-3/4
25-3/4
20533
20.5
4XL
20-3/4
66
26-1/4
36
36-1/2
38-1/2
34-1/2
36
38-1/2
40-1/2
25-1/4
25-1/4
26-1/4
21033
21
21-1/4
68
26-3/4
36-1/4
36-3/4
38-3/4
34-3/4
36-1/4
38-3/4
40-3/4
25-5/8
25-5/8
26-5/8
21533
21.5
5XL
21-3/4
70
27-3/8
36-3/8
36-7/8
38-7/8
34-7/8
36-3/8
38-7/8
40-7/8
26
26
27
22033
22
22-1/4
72
27-7/8
36-5/8
37-1/8
39-1/8
35-1/8
36-5/8
39-1/8
41-1/8
26-1/4
26-1/4
27-1/4
22533
22.5
22-3/4
74
28-1/2
36-3/4
37-1/4
39-1/4
35-1/4
36-3/4
39-1/4
41-1/4
26-3/4
27-34
27-3/4

Tolerance

+1/2, -1/4
+1, -1/2
± 1/2
± 1/2
± 1/2
± 1/2
1/Base pattern before applying alteration and size code
2/Neck Opening: Measure on a straight line from center of button to front cut-end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position.
3/Chest: Measure across front of dress shirt at the base of armhole, from folded edge to folded edge with dress shirt buttoned and laid flat. Measurement doubled.
4/Shoulder Width: Measure on a straight line from armhole to armhole at the shoulder seam intersection.
5/Center Back Length: Measure in line with the center back crease from the neck seam to the bottom edge of the dress shirt.
6/Short sleeve length: Measure from center back at the collar seam, over shoulder to end of sleeve.
7/Long sleeve length: Measure from center back at the collar seam, over shoulder to bottom edge of the cuff.

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished dress shirts shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the dress shirts shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The dress shirt shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see Table VII) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The dress shirts shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

After completion of the final assembly, the dress shirt shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The dress shirt shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see Table VII) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. Dress shirts shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description. The following critical components shall exhibit finished appearance. Epaulettes, pocket flaps, collar shall be uniformly stitched, smooth and flat, without twisting, gathers, pleats or raw edges with a uniform shape and size, collar shall hug the neck line. Sleeves and cuffs shall be uniform in width and pressed smooth and flat. Seams shall be joined evenly, without gathers, puckers or pleats. Creases shall be even without pleats or gathers, staining or residual silicone crease material. All pocket and flap top edges shall be parallel to front edge of dress shirt and even in appearance. Placket top edges shall be even. There shall not be any strike through, strike back or residue fusible adhesive on dress shirt and the dress shirt shall be capable of being cleaned and steam pressed 25 times without bubbling, delamination, strike through, shrinkage or any sign of sewing threads unravelling or lining material looking out of shape.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Dress shirts submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Each dress shirt shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with Table VII, fabric and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished dress shirts. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VI. Component and end item defects.

Examination
Defect
Classification
Major
Minor
Material
Incorrect, not as specified (see 3.4)
101
Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, exposed drill-hole, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, visible mends, woven in waste.
102

Knots greater than SDL Atlas Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than SDL Atlas Level D (see 2.3)

Component Part
Component part of dress shirt omitted, defective, not as specified, distorted, full, tight, or twisted curled or puckered any part of dress shirt caught in unrelated stitching, the edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch
103

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Variation in shade between parts

Stitching and Seams
Dress shirt seam: open stitching, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular, or loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, edge or raise stitching sewn too close the edge resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, no visible raw edge (inside raw edge greater than 1 inch).
104

Thread color not as specified

Evenness
Length of dress shirt fronts uneven by more than 1/4 inch at top or bottom when closed
Collar curls, puckers, pleats, or twists
105

Sleeve lengths vary by more than 1/2 inch

Cuff edges (Type B only) out of alignment with each other by more than 1/8 inch when buttoned.

Buttonholes out of alignment with each other by more than 1/8 inch
106
Hems
Ends of hem not sewn closed, twisted, puckered, pleated, wavy, distorted
Finished Measurements
Finished measurements out of tolerance
107

TABLE VII. Component and end item defects. Continued

Examination
Defect
Classification
Major
Minor
Pockets, Pocket Flaps and Epaulettes
Pocket companions not uniform in size or shape
Pocket twisted, curled or puckered, not stitched as specified or not well formed
108

Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening or not positioned as specified

Pocket construction not as specified
109

Pockets out of alignment 1/4 inch or more

Sleeves and cuffs
Sleeves or cuffs reversed
110
Cleanness
Spot or stain more than 1/4 inch, excessive thread ends (more than 3) not trimmed or removed, odor, affecting appearance or serviceability
111
Labels
Any label omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified
112
Bar code/Universal Product Code (UPC) code omitted or not readable by scanner; human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible
113

Bar code/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item, bar code attachment causes damage to the item

Emblems and name tape
Missing or not attached as specified
114
Packaging
Any dress shirt not packaged in accordance with contract or purchase order
115

End item dimensional examination. The dress shirts shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table IV.

Material and end item testing. Components and end item for the dress shirts shall be tested in accordance with Table VIII. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE VII. Material Testing.

Characteristic
Requirement Reference
Test Method
Fiber content
Table I
AATCC-20A or ASTM D 629 1/
Weight
Table I
ASTM D 3776, Method C
Tearing Strength
Table I
ASTM D 1424
Fabric Count
Table I
ASTM D 3775
Air Permeability
Table I
ASTM D737
Fabric Appearance
Table I
AATCC 124, 3, III, Aiii
Crease Retention
3.4.6
AATCC 88C

AATCC 117

Breaking Strength
Table I
ASTM D 5034

Colorfastness to Light (after 40 hours) Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering (after 3 cycles) Crocking Perspiration (Acid and Alkaline)

Table I
AATCC 16.3 Opt.3 2/

AATCC 61 Test 1A 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15

Visual shade matching
3.3
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A or C 5/
Labile Sulfur
3.3.3.3
6/
Dimensional Stability
Table I
AATCC 135, 3, III, Aiii
Toxicity
3.11
4.6
Dry Cleaning
Table I
AATCC 132
1/In case of dispute, the ASTM method prevails.
2/Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change
3/Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.
4/Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
5/Viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A or C, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (+ 200)°K illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (+ 200)°K.
6/A Certificate of Compliance (CoC) is acceptable for verification of this requirement.

Toxicity test. A Certificate of Compliance COC is acceptable for verification of the toxicity requirement specified in 3.11.

PACKAGING

Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order.

NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

Intended use. The dress shirts are intended for wear by all male personnel of the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Air and Marine Operations (AMO) and Office of Field Operations (OFO)..

Standard Sample. Requests for the standard sample should be made through the contracting activity. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

FIGURE 1. AMO and OFO Dress shirt, Male, Type A, front view.

FIGURE 2. AMO and OFO Dress shirt, Male, Type A, back view.

FIGURE 3. AMO and OFO Dress shirt, Male, Type B, front view.

FIGURE 4. AMO and OFO Dress shirt, Male, Type B, back view.

FIGURE 5. AMO and OFO Dress shirt, Male, Type A and Type B, Front Detail.

FIGURE 6. AMO and OFO Dress shirt, Male, Type A and Type B, Pocket Details

FIGURE 7. AMO and OFO Dress shirt, Male, Type A and Type B, Epaulette Details image1.jpeg image2.jpeg image3.jpeg image4.jpeg image5.jpeg image6.jpeg image7.jpeg

File details come from the government source that posted it.