PD18-01 OBP Womens Dress Pants - Final Draft.docx

INCH-POUND

PD18-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

PANT, DRESS, FEMALE, OFFICE OF BORDER PATROL

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of the Border Patrol (USBP).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for Dress Pants intended for wear by female personnel of the CBP as part of the dress uniform.

Office f Border Protection. The USBP version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “Female Green Dress Pants 75/25” (CBPOBP-023) and “Female Green Dress Pants 55/45” (CBPOBP-022).

Classification. The dress pants will be available in two (2) types in the sizes as cited in 1.2.1. If available sizes do not properly fit, then alternative “made to measure” sizes will be available by contacting the Uniform Management Center.

Types and Sizes.

Type A (75/25 Poly/Wool). The USBP 75/25 Poly/Wool pants will be available in even sizes 10 and 12 Petite, 4 through 24 Regular, and 10 through 24 Tall.

Type B (55/45 Poly/Wool). The USBP 55/45 Poly/Wool pants, for use by the Honor Guard (HG) only, will be available in even sizes 4 through 14 Petite, 4 through 28 Regular, and 8 through 28 Tall.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE Color Matching System (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/) Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted in the contract, in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The twill weave materials for the dress pants shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I or TABLE II, as applicable, when tested as specified in TABLE VII, unless otherwise noted.

Contrast cloth. The twill weave materials for the dress pants shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I or TABLE II, as applicable, when tested as specified in TABLE VII, unless otherwise noted.

Lining and pocket cloth. The twill weave material for the inside lining shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I or TABLE II, as applicable, when tested as specified in TABLE VII, unless otherwise noted.

TABLE I. Material requirements for USBP pants materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (±1) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

11.0 9.0

11.5 7.5

8.5 6.5

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

TABLE I. Material requirements for USBP pants materials. Continued

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum) After 3 Launderings

1.5 1.0

2.5

2.0 0.5

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Seam Smoothness, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

4-5

4-5

N/A

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5

2.5 1.5

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

3-4 4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

3-4

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5

4-5

4-5 4-5 4-5

Laundering (3X), rating (Minimum) Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4

3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4

3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5

TABLE II. Material requirements for USBP HG pant materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch Warp (±3) Fill (±2)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

11.5 7.5

11.5 7.5

8.5 6.5

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum) After 3 Launderings

2.0

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

TABLE II. Material requirements for USBP HG pant materials. Continued

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

4-5

4-5

N/A

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5

2.5 1.5

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

3-4

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5

4-5

3-4 3-4

Laundering (3X), rating (Minimum) Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5

3-4 4-5 4-5 4-5

3-4 3-4

0. Color.

USBP Pants color. The color for the USBP pants basic fabric and lining shall be Olive Green (PANTONE 19-0414 TC). The color for the contrast shall be Navy (PANTONE 19-4023 TC). The pocket fabric color shall be Black (PANTONE 19-4005 TC). The pants are part of the dress uniform and shall match the jacket specified for each dress uniform.

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the Type A and Type B dress pants and components shall match the standard sample for the colors cited in 3.3.3 when tested as specified in TABLE VII.

Components. The buttons and thread shall be the specified color. All components shall be of good quality and free from defects as specified in TABLE VI and shall be placed according to patterns.

Buttons. The buttons shall be ligne 20 (1/2 inch), style 29 polished pattern or equivalent, per US button Standard Book (see 2.2) with four (4) holes and the color shall approximate the basic cloth color cited in 3.3.1, unless otherwise stated in the contract or solicitation. The dress pants shall have one (1) front closure button and one button attached centered on each rear pocket to engage with the buttonhole in the flap tab (Figure 5). Buttons shall be located 5/8 (±1/8) inch below (to center of the button) finished welt of each rear pocket. All buttonholes shall be located according to the patterns. Front closure button shall be located in line with the end of the buttonhole closest to the finished edge of the waistband and rear pocket buttons shall be centered on the buttonholes when engaged in the flap. Buttons shall engage without causing twisting, bunching or wrinkling of the pants or flaps.

Thread. The thread for the primary seams (side seams and inseams) shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex 60 continuous filament cotton or polyester staple wrap. The color shall approximate the basic fabric color in 3.3.1, unless otherwise stated below or in the contract (see 6.5.3). The thread for the outseam stripes shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I or II, Tex 60 continuous filament cotton or polyester staple wrap. The color shall approximate the contrast fabric color in 3.3.1, unless otherwise stated below or in the contract (see 6.5.3). Thread for the secondary seams (pockets, pockets flaps, belt loops and hem) and overedging shall be Tex 40 same thread type. Thread for buttons and button holes shall be Tex 31-35, 2 ply polyester core cotton wrap or as an alternative, conform to A-A-59963, Type I, Class 1, Tex 30 (polyester).

Fusible interfacing. Fusible is used in the waistband, pocket flaps, left fly front and belt loops. The interfacing for the dress pants shall conform to MIL-C- 44296, Type V, Style C lightweight thermobonded fusible, nonwoven, white, 70% Nylon/30% Polyester, 2.5 to 2.9 ounce with minimum of 175 fusible dots (Polyamide) per square inch. (see 3.9.3) Permanent creases. Pants shall have a continuous 1/16 inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead applied to the back side of the basic fabric to form permanent creases. The creases shall be positioned in accordance with markings on the patterns. There shall be one crease on the front and on the back of each leg. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the top of the appropriate panel to the hem. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the creases. The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto face of material or increased stiffness. The pants shall have a minimum rating of "3" when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC 117, at a maximum of 400°F, and steam pressing and perchloroethylene solvent (3 exposures) in accordance with AATCC 132.

Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband shall be Universal Fastener Inc, Elite Brand number 8 hook and number 85 eye steel zinc plated components or equal. Hook and eye shall be low profile, crush resistant and offer a high degree of tensile strength for waistband application.

Interlining. Aside from fusible per 3.4.4. waistband shall also have a 3/4 inch wide woven plain weave stabilizer tape used as a unidirectional stiffener and over that a 2-1/2 inch wide black 3.0 — 3.3 ounce nonwoven interlining. Side pocket and welt pocket facing interlining shall be an extension of the 3.3 ounce woven poly/cotton pocketing material Side pocket and welt pocket facing interlining shall be extension of the 3.3 oz. woven poly/cotton pocketing material.

Resin tape for belt loop construction. The belt loops shall have a resin tape used in the construction of the belt loop to prevent fraying.

Waistband lining. Waistband shall have a 2-1/2 inch wide waist curtain consisting of two strips of fabric sewn on top of a 1 inch wide (with 5/8 inch showing) elastic gripper strip with 3 sections of elastic material 1/8 apart (see Figure 4).

Zipper. Zipper (slide fastener) shall conform to A-A-55634 and shall be Type I, Style 4 automatic lock, bottom stop closed and open top, Brass slider size 4.5, tape width 1/2-inch Olive Green tape.

Design. The dress pants (see Figures 2 and 3) shall be full length with a gripper type waistband (see 3.4.8). The pants shall have a watch pocket as well as two side inseam pockets and two back double welt pockets with flaps. The location of buttonholes for both types shall be in accordance with the marks on the pattern. Buttons shall be sewn so that there is no bunching or twisting of the pants. The dress pants shall have permanent silicone creases; one (1) on the front of each leg and one (1) on the back of each leg, positioned in accordance with the marks on the pattern. The creases shall have a continuous appearance and shall remain after five (5) launderings. There shall be a tuxedo stripe that runs down the outside of each pant leg. The stripe shall be top stitched on to the front panel and caught in the side seam.

Pockets. (see Figure 5) There shall be a watch pocket on the front right panel of the dress pants at the bottom edge of the waistband, two (2) side in-seam pockets and two (2) back double welt pockets with flaps located according to the pattern. Each pointed pocket flap shall have a buttonhole that engages with a button attached below the pocket welt.

Label. The combination identification and care label for the dress pants shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, care instructions and size. The label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the Textile Products Identification Act and Care Labeling Act. The label shall be located on the inside of the pants on the back left hip pocket upper bag.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE II. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (± 1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 stitches per button, using all holes in the button, and tension set that allows button to easily operate in/out buttonhole. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Buttonholes shall be of a keyhole-end design (see ASTM D 6193, Figure X1.2) with opening set at 5/8 inch with no buttonhole threads extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be in accordance with TABLE III. All inside edges of seams shall be ironed flat on each side.

TABLE III. Seam and stitching types.

Pocket flap for rear pockets Two layers of body fabric plus black nonwoven interlining sewn together and turned inside.

Button hole tab for rear pockets Tab piece is premade with two layers of pocketing material. Sewn together per pattern piece. Button shall align with button hole.

Tab is stitched on left and right of tab to attach to flap and then sewn into bottom of pocket flap.

Rear pocket welt (top and bottom) Top welt 1 inch wide white interlining.

Bottom welt includes 1-1/2 wide white interlining.

Welt top and bottom stitched to back pattern piece

Rear pocket bag Sewn all around except top which is sewn into welt at top of pocket.

In-seam side pocket bag Attached at the outseam (back). Two 3/8 inch bartacks into the stripe, pocket facing, and pocket bag 5-3/8 inch apart (front pocket opening).

Watch pocket with lining material.

Directly below right front first belt loop, opening of 2 inches at top. Two bartacks at each end of opening (5/8 inch in length). Pocket is made with green body fabric and black lining material.

TABLE III. Seam and stitching types. Continued

Outseam and striping Note: Stripe runs from bottom of waistband to the bottom hem of the pants.

301 or 401

3) Sew stripe and basic fabric via topstitch.

Finished product shall show no stitch line. Twill material angle shall match between the stripe and basic fabric material. Each side shall be ironed flat to each side. 1-3/8 inch from seam to edge with 3/8 inch tape showing on inside and one inch on the outside.

503 or 504

Waistband and attachment

Button hole tab for front right fly.

Located 2-3/4 inch down from waistband. Button is attached on waistband lower inner flap 1/4 inch below the crack stitch. The button and button hole shall align with each other.

Fly assembly. The fly assembly is as follows:

a) Set left zipper chain onto 2-inch-wide zipper strip pattern piece with front zipper chain 1/2 inch from edge. Double Top stitch zipper tape per SSau-2 with 3/16-inch gauge stitch line starting 1/16 inch from back of zipper chain.

b) Top stitch zipper strip assembly with white interlining onto left front pattern piece with SSa-1, 301 at 5/16 inch away from front chain.

c) Turn back zipper strip assembly, 1/2 inch to prepare for J-Stitch. Total turn-in shall be 1-3/4 inch with 3/16 inch of front pattern piece exposed. Prepare for J-stitch 301 seam 1-3/8 inch from turned-in edge.

d) Using a 301 stitch, create the J-Stitch using Ssak-1, turning in left front 1-3/8 inches. Topstitch 1-3/16 inch (±1/8 inch) from front edge to form J-Stitch. Use two bartacks (1/2 inch) into J-stitch. One is 8 inches from top of waistband and one at bottom of J-stitch. First bartack is not into the J-stitch but parallel it.

e) Using a 301 stitch, join right front and right fly lining along front edge with lining. Use Osf-1, turn-in 1-1/2 inch, and attach with LSd-1. The gauge shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned in edge.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the dress pants shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1 inch at top of back seam that blends to 1/2 inch at crotch point

· 1/2 inch for Crotch and fly joining seams

· 3/8 inch for all other seams

· 1/4 inch for Fly Tab, and Welt Pocket Tab Bartacks. Bartacks shall be used to reinforce areas of stress on the pants (J-Stitch, below zipper, left and right side fly, rear pockets, side pocket top and bottom of stripe. Bartacks used in the dress pants shall be 3/8 inch, with 20-24 stitches per inch, for all bartacks except for the bartacks on either side of the rear pockets, which shall be 5/8 inch, with 28-32 stitches per inch.

Figures. Figures 1-6 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. TABLE IV is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the dress pants shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE IV.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Manufacturing requirements. The dress pants shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the dress pants is prohibited.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in the solicitation. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles listed in 3.4.3 shall be bonded per manufacturer's recommended settings using an electric fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron.

Configuration. Dress pants shall conform to appearance (see Figures 1-5), the finished measurements in TABLE V (as applicable), and the construction methods specified in 3.10.3 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

Finished measurements. The dress pants shall conform to the finished measurements specified in TABLE V. Measurements shall be taken using a calibrated measuring device and pants shall be laid flat with no bunching, gathering or wrinkling that would affect measurement. Inseam measurement and pocket opening measurements do not grade. Inseam, measured along inseam from bottom edge of unhemmed pant legs to center of crotch seam, do not grade and shall be no less than (±3/4 inch): 34 inches for Petite sizes, 36 inches for Regular sizes and 38 inches for Tall sizes. In-seam side pocket opening measurement shall be 6 (±1/4) inches for all sizes. Watch pocket opening measurement shall be 2-1/4 (±1/8) inch from bartack to bartack. For a full list of finished dimensions, see Figure 6.

TABLE V. Finished measurements (inches) Type A and Type B.

Size Waist 1/ (±1/2 inch) Thigh 2/ (±1/2 inch) Seat 3/ (±1 inch)

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished dress pants shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the dress pants shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The dress pants shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE VI) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The dress pants shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Dress pants submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Dress pants shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE VI, fabric and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished dress pants. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VI. Component and end item defects.

Knots greater than SDL Atlas Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than SDL Atlas Level D (see 2.3)

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Variation in shade between parts

Thread color not as specified

TABLE VI. Component and end item defects. Continued

Leg lengths vary by more than 1/2 inch

Belt loops unevenly spaced

Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening or not positioned as specified

Pockets out of alignment 1/4 inch or more

Bar code/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item, bar code attachment causes damage to the item

End item dimensional examination. The dress pants shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TABLE V.

Material and end item testing. Components and end item for the dress pants shall be tested in accordance with TABLE VII. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE VII. Material Testing.

AATCC 117

Colorfastness to Light (after 40 hours) Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering (after 3 cycles) Crocking Perspiration (Acid and Alkaline)

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

AATCC 16.3 Opt.3 2/

AATCC 61 Test 1A 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15

Toxicity test. A Certificate of Compliance COC is acceptable for verification of the toxicity requirement specified in 3.11.

PACKAGING

Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order.

NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

Intended use. The dress pants are intended for wear by all female personnel of the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Border Patrol (USBP).

Standard Sample. Requests for the standard sample should be made through the contracting activity. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

FIGURE 1. USBP Dress pants, Twill Pattern

FIGURE 2. USBP Dress pants, Female, front view.

FIGURE 3. USBP Dress pants, Female, back view.

DRAFT PD18-01

FIGURE 4. USBP Dress pants, Female, Front Detail.

FIGURE 5. USBP Dress pants, Female, Side View and Pocket Detail image1.png image2.png image3.png image4.png image5.png