PD19-01 OFO Womens Skirt - Final Draft.docx

INCH-POUND

PD19-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SKIRT, DRESS, FEMALE

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Field Operations (OFO).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for Dress Skirt intended for wear by female personnel of the CBP as part of the dress uniform.

Office of Field Operations. The OFO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “Female Navy Dress Skirt” (CBPOFO-009).

Classification. The skirt will be available in one type in even sizes 2 through 38 in Petite, Regular and Tall lengths. If available sizes do not properly fit, then alternative “made to measure” sizes will be available by contacting the Uniform Management Center.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE Color Matching System (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/) Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted in the contract, in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The twill weave materials for the dress skirt shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I when tested as specified in TABLE V, unless otherwise noted.

Lining cloth. The plain weave material for the inside lining shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I when tested as specified in TABLE V, unless otherwise noted.

Pocket cloth. The plain weave material for the pocket bag shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I when tested as specified in TABLE V, unless otherwise noted.

TABLE I. OFO Dress skirt material requirements.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch Warp (± 3) Fill (± 2)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

11.0 8.0

4.5

6.5 5.5

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum)

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum shrinkage or growth) after 3 launderings

1.5 0.5

1.0 2.0

TABLE I. OFO Dress skirt material requirements. Continued

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering - after 3 cycles Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

4-5

3-4

4-5

3-4

4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Light

4-5

4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Crocking Dry Wet

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Acidic Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

2-3

4-5

4-5

Dry Cleaning Color Change

4-5

3-4

Color.

OFO dress skirt color. The color for the OFO dress shirt basic cloth shall be PANTONE 19-4013TC and the lining and pocket material color shall be PANTONE 19-4118TC when tested as specified in TABLE VI.

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the dress skirt and components shall match the standard sample for the colors cited in 3.3.5.1 when tested as specified in TABLE VI.

Components. The buttons and thread shall be the specified color. All components shall be of good quality and free from defects as specified in TABLE V and shall be placed according to patterns.

Buttons. The buttons shall be ligne 22 (9/16 inch), style 20/21 polished pattern or equivalent, per US button Standard Book (see 2.2) with four (4) holes. The dress skirt shall have one (1) rear closure button and one button inside the waistband at the back to engage with the buttonhole in the inside waistband extension (Figure 1). Buttons shall be located according to the patterns. The color for the rear closure button shall approximate the basic cloth color cited in 3.3.5, unless otherwise stated in the contract or solicitation. The color for the inside waistband extension button shall approximate the basic cloth color cited in 3.3.5 or may be clear, unless otherwise stated in the contract or solicitation. All buttonholes shall be 5/8 inch, of a straight design, and shall be located according to the patterns. Rear closure button shall be located in line with the end of the buttonhole closest to the finished edge of the outside waistband extension and inside waistband button shall be in line with the end of the buttonhole closest to the finished edge of the inside waistband extension when engaged in the extension. Buttons shall engage without causing twisting, bunching or wrinkling of the skirt.

Thread. The thread for the primary seams (side seams) shall conform to A-A-50199, Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered, Tex 60. The overedge portions of seams shall be Tex 40. As an alternative, the thread for overedging shall be A-A-59963; Thread Polyester, Tex 24 soft or bonded air entangled (Types IV or V), class 1. Thread for the secondary seams (darts, lining and hem) shall be Tex 40 same thread type. Threads for four hole buttons shall be Tex 31-35, 2-ply polyester core cotton or polyester wrap or alternative Tex 30 100% polyester. Thread for bartacks and button holes shall Tex 40 of A-A-50199. The color shall approximate the basic fabric color in 3.3.5, unless otherwise stated below or in the contract (see 6.5.3).

Fusible interfacing. Fusible is used in the waistband. The interfacing for the dress skirt shall be MIL-C- 44296, Type V, Style C lightweight thermobonded fusible, nonwoven, white, 70% Nylon/30% Polyester, 2.5 ounce with minimum of 175 fusible dots (Polyamide) per square inch. (see 3.9.3) Elastic. Elastic used for the waistband shall be 1 inch wide elastic webbing polyester knit with 15 ends, black, and 4 inches long. Elastic shall stretch up to 5 inches and snap back.

Design. The dress skirt (see Figures 1 and 2) shall be knee length with a partially elasticized waistband that buttons in the back with a zipper closure at the center back waistband. The waistband shall be 1-3/8 inch from top to bottom and have elastic at the sides. The skirt hem shall have an 8 inch long and 2-1/2 inch wide vent at the lower end of the back seam. The skirt shall be fully lined with a hanging liner attached at the waistband only. The skirt shall have four (4) darts; one dart on each side of the front of the skirt and one dart on each side of the back of the skirt. The hanging edge of the waistband shall be finished with a binding strip that will have a finished dimension of 3/8 inches wide.. Strips of lining fabric (bias cut) 1-5/8 inch wide shall be used for binding in the waistband.

Pockets. The skirt shall have two (2) side hanging pockets (see Figure 1).

Label. The identification label for the dress skirt shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, care instructions and size. The label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the Textile Products Identification Act and Care Labeling Act. The label shall be located on the inside of the skirt waistband.

Care instructions label. Care instructions shall be as recommended by the suppliers of the materials. The care instructions label shall be located on the inside of the skirt waistband.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE II. The back side of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. The back side of the basic fabric shall face the back side of the liner fabric inside the skirt. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (± 1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 stitches per button, using all four holes, and tension set that allows button to easily operate in/out buttonhole. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Buttonholes shall be of a straight design (see ASTM D 6193, Figure X1.5) with opening set at 5/8 inch with no buttonhole threads extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be in accordance with TABLE II.

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types.

Skirt

Side and Back seams

Waistband 2/

Bottom Hem

Liner

Vent

Pockets

Back pocket facing to side seam

1/ Includes attachment of pocket pieces 2/ Waistband top and bottom stitch lines are 1-1/8 inch apart.

3/ Sew top stitch 1/8 inch of edge all around. Make sure elastic webbing is stretched during operation.

4/ Continues up into the slide fastener.

Elastic. Position the elastic into the waistband on the left and right sides, per the patterns. Stretch the elastic to 5 inches before stitching. Attach the elastic by double topstitching the ends of the elastic webbing only to the inside of the waistband 5 inches apart with a gauge of 1/8 inch using a double 1/8 inch boxstitch.

Bottom vent. Left side rear overedged (503/504) and turned back 2-1/2 inch and right side rear overedged (503/504) is turned back 3/8 inch and topstitch 1/4 inch gauge 301 stitch.

Slide Fastener. Rear left side opening is overedged first, then lining is attached to slide fastener tape via LSb-1, 1/8 inch, 301 stitch. Then the rear left base material is turned back 1/2 inch and then sewn onto slide fastener with 1/2-inch gauge. The rear right lining is attached to slide fastener tape in the same way as the left side (LSb-1, 1/8 inch, 301 stitch). The rear left extends 1/4 inch beyond the slide fastener chain to act as a slide fastener cover.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the dress skirt shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 3/8 inch for waistband seams and attaching side hanging pocket to front opening.

· 1/2 inch for all other seams Bartacks. Bartacks shall be used to reinforce the top and bottom corners of the pockets. Bartacks shall have 20-24 stitches per tack and shall be 3/8 inches long.

Figures. Figures 1-4 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. TABLE III is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the dress skirt shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Manufacturing requirements. The dress skirt shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the dress skirt is prohibited.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in the solicitation. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles listed in 3.4.3 shall be bonded per manufacturer's recommended settings using an electric fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron.

Configuration. Dress skirt shall conform to appearance (see Figures 1-3), the finished measurements in TABLE IV (as applicable), and the construction methods specified in 3.10.3 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

Finished measurements. The dress skirt shall conform to the finished measurements specified in TABLE IV below. The dart depth for the skirt is 3-1/2 (±1/8) inches finished, from the edge of the waistband seam to the dart tip and does not grade. The length of the vent is 8 (±1/4) inches for all sizes and the slash pocket openings are 6-1/4 (±1/4) inches for all sizes. Center back length does not grade.

DRAFT PD19-01

DRAFT PD19-01

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches).

Tolerance

± 1/2 inch

± 1/2 inch

± 1/2 inch

± 1/2 inch

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished dress skirt shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the dress skirt shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The dress skirt shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE V) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The dress skirt shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Dress skirt submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Dress skirt shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE V, fabric and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished dress skirt. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE V. Component and end item defects.

Knots greater than SDL Atlas Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than SDL Atlas Level D (see 2.3)

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Variation in shade between parts

Thread color not as specified

Buttons not secured using all holes or using less than 16 stitches per button.

Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening or not positioned as specified

TABLE V. Component and end item defects. Continued

Bar code/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item, bar code attachment causes damage to the item

End item dimensional examination. The dress skirt shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TABLE IV.

Material and end item testing. Components and end item for the dress skirt shall be tested in accordance with TABLE VI. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE VI. Material Testing.

Colorfastness to Light (after 40 hours) Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering (after 3 cycles) Crocking Perspiration (Acid and Alkaline)

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

AATCC 16.3 Opt.3 2/

AATCC 61 Test 1A 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15

Toxicity test. A Certificate of Compliance COC is acceptable for verification of the toxicity requirement specified in 3.10.

PACKAGING

Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order.

NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

Intended use. The dress skirt are intended for wear by all female personnel of the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Field Operations (OFO).

Standard Sample. Requests for the standard sample should be made through the contracting activity. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

FIGURE 1. OFO Dress skirt, Female, front view.

FIGURE 2. OFO Dress skirt, Female, back view.

FIGURE 3. OFO Dress skirt, Female, Liner - back view.

image1.jpg image2.jpg image3.jpg