PD21-01 OFO Maternity Shirt - Final Draft.docx

INCH-POUND

PD-21-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, MATERNITY, WOMEN’S, LONG AND SHORT SLEEVE, OFFICE OF FIELD OPERATIONS

This purchase description is approved for use by the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Field Operations and the Department of Homeland Security (DHS).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for Long Sleeve and Short Sleeve shirts intended for wear by female personnel of the Office of Field Operations (OFO) authorized to wear maternity clothing. These items are identified in the CBP catalog with item numbers 1274 “OFO Long Sleeve Maternity Shirt” and 1273 “OFO Short Sleeve Maternity Shirt”.

Classification. The shirt will be available in two (2) types in the following sizes. If available sizes do not properly fit, then alternative “made to measure” sizes will be available by contacting the Uniform Management Center.

Types and Sizes.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

DRAFT PD21-01

PD-21-01

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE® FASHION + HOME (Cotton Products) (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/) US Button US Button Standard Button Book (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.usbutton.com/) Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted in the contract, in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The basic cloth for the Type A and Type B OFO shirts shall be 75% polyester/25% wool, plain weave cloth and shall conform to the requirements in TABLE I. Numeric values are averages.

TABLE I. Material requirements.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (±1) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

13.5 8.0

6.0 5.0

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent (Maximum shrinkage or growth) after 3 launderings Warp Fill

1.0

TABLE I. Material requirements. Continued

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering - after 3 cycles Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

4-5

3-4

3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Light

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Crocking Dry Wet

4.5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5

Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Perspiration, Acidic Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5

Laundering (3X) Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

4-5

3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4

4-5

3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4

Color (Type A and Type B). The Maternity Shirts are part of a uniform set and shall be a color match to the Female Navy Maternity Trousers (CBPOFO-030). The color for the shirt basic cloth (Type A and Type B) shall be PANTONE 19-4013 TC and the color for the lining (Type A and Type B) shall be PANTONE 19-4025 when tested as specified in TABLE VI.

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the Type A and Type B shirt and components shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in TABLE VI.

Components. The buttons, thread, elastic, interfacings and collar stays shall be the specified color. All components shall be of good quality and free from defects as specified in TABLE V and shall be placed according to patterns.

Buttons. The buttons shall be 20 ligne (12mm), style 29 polished pattern Niagara or equivalent, per US button Standard Book (see 2.3) with four (4) holes and the color shall be black, unless otherwise stated in the contract or solicitation.

Thread. The thread for the primary seams (side seams and inseams) shall be Tex 60 continuous filament cotton or polyester staple wrap. The color shall be black. Thread for the secondary seams (pockets, collar, cuffs, placket, bartacks, other small parts) shall be Tex 40 same thread type. Thread for overedging small parts (other than side seams) shall be polyester, soft or bonded air entangled size Tex 24, thread for buttons and button holes shall be Tex 31-35, 2 ply polyester core cotton wrap or alternate Tex 30 polyester. Bobbin and looper thread shall use the same Tex size thread, unless otherwise noted.

Elastic. The 1/2 inch elastic at the mid-back shall meet the properties of MIL-W-5664, Type 1 black webbing elastic. The elastic shall produce between 1.35 – 3.75 pound load at 50% elongation. However, elastic structure may be woven or knit cotton, polyester or nylon webbing with 6 -8 heat resistant elastic ends. Elastic shall totally snap back when fully stretched.

Collar stays. The collar stays shall be single point and permanent.

Fusible interlining. The fusible interlining shall use MIL-C-44296, black, style B at 1.7 -2.4 ounce, 50 - 100 % polyester with remaining percentage nylon or rayon, class 1, 2 or 3 adhesive for the epaulettes (each side), collar stand (each side), under collar, chest pocket flaps (each side) and button hole placket (face side).

Standard sample. The finished shirt shall match the standard sample (see 6.3) for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced unless otherwise specified herein, in the contract or solicitation.

Design. The Type A maternity shirt (see Figures 1 and 2) shall be short sleeve and have a two piece collar (collar and collarstand). The Type B dress shirt (see Figures 3 and 4) shall be long sleeve with button cuffs with plackets, pleated sleeves with the open side going toward the back, and a two piece collar (collar and collarstand). The collar for both types shall contain collar stays (see 3.6.4). Both types shall have a back yoke, a front placket, inverted box pleats in the center of each front panel, functional epaulettes with a button closure, have patches on both sleeves and have two (2) hex shaped chest pockets, scalloped flaps and a button. The left chest pocket of the maternity shirts shall also have one (1) pen pocket inside. The location of buttonholes for both types shall be in accordance with the marks on the pattern. Buttons shall engage without causing twisting, pulling, bunching or wrinkling of the shirt. The inverted box pleats shall not be creased. A badge strip shall be sewn on the inside of the shirt, in accordance with the patterns, above the left chest pocket. A nameplate strip, fabricated with basic fabric, shall be sewn inside the shirt above the right chest pocket with location and sewn eyelet position in accordance with the patterns. The top and bottom plies of the epaulets, collarstand and the chest pocket flaps shall have a fusible interlining. The collar, cuff (Type B) and front placket area on the buttonhole side (see Figures 1 and 3) shall have a fusible interlining. The maternity shirts shall have an elasticized waist on the back panel positioned in accordance with the marks on the pattern.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in the solicitation. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles for epaulettes, collar stand, pocket flaps, collar and button hole placket shall be bonded per manufacturers recommended setting using a fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron.

Emblems (Type A and Type B). There shall be official emblem patches applied to the left and right sleeves of the dress shirt. The thread used for attachment shall match the merrowed edge thread color on the emblem.

Official U.S. Customs and Border Protection Keystone Emblem. The official U.S. Customs and Border Protection Keystone Emblem shall be sewn on the right sleeve approximately 1-1/4 inch below the sleeve set seam, centered with the epaulette.

Official Office U.S. Office of Field Operations Emblem. The official Office of Field Operations Emblem shall be placed on the left sleeve approximately 1-1/4 inch below the sleeve set seam and centered with the epaulette.

Label. The label for the Type A and Type B shirts shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, laundering instructions and size. The information on the label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (see 2.2.2). Packaged shirts shall have a detachable label with a machine-readable bar code/Universal Product Code (UPC) as well as human readable information which is visible when the finished shirt is folded and packaged in accordance with the contract. Label sizes and information for the detachable label will be included in the contract or solicitation.

Laundering instructions. Laundering instructions shall be as recommended by the supplier of the basic material.

Thread for label. The thread for attaching the label shall be Tex 40 continuous filament polyester with a polyester staple wrap. The color for the label shall match the basic material color.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE II. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (±2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 stitches per button and tension set that allows button to easily operate in/out buttonhole. Buttonholes shall be 1/2 inch in length. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Buttonholes shall be of a straight design with opening set at 9/16 inch with no buttonhole threads extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be as cited below, in accordance with TABLE II.

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types.

TABLE II. Seam and stitching types. Continued

Top of pocket flap and top of long sleeve cuff

1/ Safety stitch with Tex 60 thread 2/ With accounting for pencil pocket opening on left pocket flap 3/ 1/4 inch between double needle 301 on long sleeve cuff and top of pocket flap 4/ Sewing machine shall be adjusted to gather elastic at minimum of 80%.

Front placket buttonhole side. Combination OSf-1 for open side of placket and OSe-1 closed side. Gauge of stitchline ¾ inch with buttonholes directly in middle and left and right stitchline 1/4 inch from each folded edge. Left side placket has 1/4 inch indentation into s-fold.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the shirts shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1/2 inch for all joining seams, unless otherwise noted.

· 3/8 inch for joining the collar to neckline, and the pockets and sleeve patches.

· 1/4 inch to join the collarstand to collar and for the collar, cuffs, pocket flaps and epaulettes.

· 1/2-inch seam allowance for shirt hem, folded twice with a 1/4-inch topstitch.

· 1 3/8-inch seam allowance for Type A sleeve hem (3/8-inch fold and 1-inch topstitch) Seam smoothness. When tested in accordance with Table VI, the seams shall have an initial smoothness rating of 5 and rating of 3.5 (minimum) after laundering in accordance with the care label.

Figures. Figures 1-5 are furnished for information only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. TABLE III is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the shirts shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts. Continued

Manufacturing requirements. The shirts shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the shirt is prohibited.

Configuration. Each shirt shall conform to appearance (see Figures 1-5), the finished measurements in TABLE IV (as applicable), and the construction methods specified in 3.10 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

Finished measurements. The shirt shall conform to the finished measurements specified in TABLE IV. TABLE IV includes those sizes cited in section 1 as well as stretched and relaxed dimensions for the back elastic.

TABLE IV. Finished measurements (inches) Type A and Type B.

Pattern size

Size

2/ Shoulder Width 3/

Sleeve Length 5/

7/ Elastic (Stretched) 8/

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished shirts shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the shirts shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The shirt shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE V) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. The shirts shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Shirts submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Each shirt shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE V, fabric and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished shirts. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE V. Component and end item defects.

Knots greater than Sears1/ Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than Sears1/ Level D (see 2.3)

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Variation in shade between parts

TABLE V. Component and end item defects. Continued

Thread color not as specified

Sleeve lengths vary by more than 1/2 inch

Cuff and cuff tab (Type B only) out of alignment with bottom folded edge of sleeve hem by more than 1/8 inch.

Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening or not positioned as specified

Pockets out of alignment 1/4 inch or more

Epaulette companions not uniform in size or shape

Bar code/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item, bar code attachment causes damage to the item

1/ The SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales reference the Sears Levels for this evaluation.

End item dimensional examination. The shirts shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TABLE IV.

Material and end item testing. Components and end item for the shirts shall be tested in accordance with TABLE VI. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE VI. Material Testing.

Colorfastness to Light (after 40 hours) Colorfastness, rating (Minimum) Laundering (after 3 cycles) Crocking Perspiration (Acid and Alkaline) Dry Cleaning (1 cycle)

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

TABLE I

AATCC 16.3 Opt.3 2/

AATCC 61 Test 3A 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 15

AATCC 132

Toxicity test. A Certificate of Compliance COC is acceptable for verification of the toxicity requirement specified in 3.13.

PACKAGING

Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order.

NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory or contractually binding.)

Intended use. The shirts are intended for wear by all female personnel of the U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP) Office of Field Operations authorized to wear maternity clothing items.

Standard Sample. Requests for the standard sample should be made through the contracting activity. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

FIGURE 1. Office of Field Operations Maternity Shirt, Type A, Front View.

FIGURE 2. Office of Field Operations Maternity Shirt, Type A, back view.

FIGURE 3. Office of Field Operations Maternity Shirt, Type B, front view.

FIGURE 4. Office of Field Operations Maternity Shirt, Type B, back view.

DRAFT PD21-01

FIGURE 5. Office of Field Operations Maternity Shirt, Type A and Type B, Front Detail.

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