PD11-01 HG Jacket -Male - Final Draft.docx

DRAFT PD11-01

INCH-POUND

PD11-01

DRAFT

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, MALE, POLYESTER/WOOL, HONOR GUARD

This purchase description is approved for use by Air and Marine Operations (AMO), Office of Field Operations (OFO), and U.S. Border Patrol (USBP) within U.S Customs and Border Protection (CBP).

SCOPE

Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for polyester/wool jacket intended for wear by male personnel of the CBP as part of the Honor Guard Uniform. While the design of the jackets is similar across the CBP, personnel from each of the offices listed below will wear a distinctive Honor Guard jacket (see 1.2.1). Design differences exist and are outlined in section 3.

Air and Marine Operations. The AMO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “AMO Male Honor Guard Jacket” (CBPOAM-152).

Office of Field Operations. The OFO version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “OFO Male Honor Guard Jacket” (CBPOFO-080).

United States Border Patrol. The USBP version of this item is identified in the CBP catalog as “USBP Male Honor Guard Jacket” (CBPOBP-092).

Classification. The jacket will be available in one type and three color combinations in the following sizes:

Color combination.

Silver tan with brown contrast and gold AMO buttons for wear by the AMO.

Navy with black contrast and gold OFO buttons for wear by the OFO.

Green with navy contrast and gold USBP buttons for wear by the USBP.

Sizes. The jacket shall be available in even sizes as follows:

1The OFO Honor Guard Jacket is also available in 46 Extra-Long as well as made to measure.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

Uniform Management Center National Uniform Program 202-344-1730 or 1-800-600-6237 cbpnationaluniformprogram@cbp.dhs.gov

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

Government documents.

Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (Copies are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

DEPARTMET OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (15 U.S.C. § 70) Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods (16 CFR Part 423) (Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov/) Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Copies are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.astm.org/.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Replica Scales (Copies available from SDL Atlas, http://www.sdlatlas.com )

PANTONE

PANTONE HOME + FASHION (Cotton Products) (Copies are available for purchase on-line at http://www.pantone.com/)

Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract in the event of conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

REQUIREMENTS

Conformance inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.1.

Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Materials.

Basic cloth. The twill weave materials for the jacket body and contrast (epaulettes and sleeve detail) shall conform to the requirements in TABLES I-III when tested as specified in TABLE VIII, unless otherwise noted.

Lining material. The lining shall meet the requirements of TABLE I-III when tested as specified in TABLE VIII, unless otherwise noted.

Pocket material. The chest and hip pockets on the jacket shall use body fabric. The interior pockets shall use lining fabric.

TABLE I. Material requirements for AMO jacket materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch Warp (±3) Fill (±2)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

19.0 13.5

10.0 8.0

2.5 2.5

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings Warp Fill

1.3 0.8

1.5 0.5

TABLE I. Material requirements for OAM jacket materials. Continued

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

4-5

NA

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

3.5

4.5

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool

3-4 3-4

4-5

TABLE II. Material requirements for OFO jacket materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch (Minimum) Warp Fill

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

10.0 7.5

10.0 7.5

6.0 6.1

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

1.0

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5

4.5 4.5

TABLE II. Material requirements for OFO jacket materials. Continued

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5 4-5

4-5

TABLE III. Material requirements for USBP jacket materials.

Fabric Count, yarns per inch Warp (±3) Fill (±2)

Tearing Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

11.6 6.6

11.6 6.6

2.9 2.7

Breaking Strength, pounds (Minimum) Warp Fill

TABLE III. Material requirements for USBP jacket materials. Continued

Dimensional Stability, percent shrinkage or growth (Maximum) After 3 Dry cleanings

3.0

3.0

4.0 1.0

Fabric Appearance, (Minimum) Initial After 3 dry cleanings

Colorfastness to Light, rating after 40 hours (Minimum)

4-5

4-5

N/A

Crocking, rating (Minimum) Dry Wet

4.5

4.5

4.5

Perspiration, rating (Minimum) Alkaline Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool Acid Color Change Staining Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4-5

4-5 4-5

3-4

3-4

4-5

4-5 3-4

Color.

AMO Honor Guard Jacket color. The color for the AMO jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 16-1107 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-0712 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 16-1509 TC. The jacket is part of the Male Honor Guard uniform and shall match the Class One Male Trouser (CBPOAM-008) OFO Honor Guard Jacket color. The color for the OFO jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 19-4013 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-4005 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 19-4006 TC. The jacket is part of the Male Honor Guard uniform and shall match the Male Dress Trousers (CBPOFO-230).

USBP Honor Guard Jacket color. The color for the USBP jacket basic fabric shall be PANTONE 19-0414 TC. The color for the contrast shall be PANTONE 19-4023 TC. The color of the lining shall be PANTONE 19-0515 TC. The jacket is part of the Male Honor Guard uniform and shall match the Male 55/45 Poly/Wool Dress Trousers (CBPOBP-020).

Labile Sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the jacket shall match the standard sample or color identified in 3.3.4 when tested as specified in TABLE VIII.

Components.

Buttons. The buttons used in the Honor Guard Jacket are specific to each office under US Customs and Border Protection. Metal embossed buttons are available at Waterbury Button Co (WB), Waterbury, Ct. Plastic 4 hole buttons available from US Button Co, NY, NY.

AMO Buttons. There shall be three (3) 36-ligne official AMO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOAM-159) with washers and O-rings for the front, six (6) 24-ligne official AMO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOAM-160) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 32-ligne tan button for the bottom front button. Tan button color shall approximate PANTONE 16-1107 TC, and meet V-B-871 Type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

OFO Buttons. There shall be three (3) 36-ligne official OFO gold colored shank buttons (CBPOFO-XXX) with washers and O-rings for the front, six (6) 24-ligne official OFO gold colored shank buttons CBPOFO-XXX) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 32-ligne black button for the bottom front button. Black button color shall approximate PANTONE 19-4005 TC, and meet V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

USBP Buttons. There shall be three (3) 36-ligne official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098A) with washers and O-rings for the front, six (6) 24-ligne official USBP gold colored shank buttons (CBPOBP-098) with washers and O-rings for the front pockets and epaulettes, and one (1) plain 36-ligne green button for the bottom front button. Green button color shall approximate PANTONE 19-0515 TC, and meet V-B-871, type II, Class D, Style 20 design appearance.

Belt retainer. A brass belt retainer shall be sewn into the side back seam on each side of the jacket. The 1-3/4-inch retainer is available through William Scolly, Ltd., product code 491006BELTHKG1 (brass belt hook). A sewn eyelet, with a diameter of 5/16 inch shall be placed in accordance with the pattern to secure the belt retainer.

Thread. Thread for seaming coat (side, back, under and upper arm-sleeve, shoulder and related armhole or other outer shell to outer shell seams) shall be A-A-50199, Type I or Type II, size Tex 46 to 60. All remaining small parts such as (collar, collarstand, shoulder pads, lining seams (lining to lining and lining to outer shell), cuffs, front chest pockets, flaps, inside patch pockets, bottom hem, epaulettes, bi-swing assembly, bartacks, eyelets, bartack ends of open and closed eyelet end buttonholes and double -needle topstitching) can be Tex 36 to 45 as an alternate of same thread type. All buttonholes shall use A-A-50198 Cotton Gimp, glazed finish size Tex 210 and all threads shall match outer shell shade or per contract requirements. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. Thread used for basting shall be A-A-52094, Type II, Tex 60 nominal or as appropriate.

Fusible. The fusible interfacing for jacket shall be MIL-C-44296, Type III, Style B, Class 1 weft inserted knit fusible between 2.4 to 3.0 ounces per square yard with 18% polyester filament (warp) / 82% viscose rayon (weft insert) blend. Fusible shall be minimum of 175 polyamide fusible dots per square inch and color shall be gray in shade (see 3.11.1). The fusible tape for jacket shall be MIL-C-44296, Type IX, Style B, Class 1 tape at 1/2 inch for hem operations.

Felt under collar material. Undercollar material shall meet either MIL-C-29137 base scrim cloth or alternate scrim requirements. The final scrim composite shall be no less than 9 ounces per square yard, with minimum 40% wool with remainder being either rayon or cotton and be felted, scoured, piece dyed, compressed and moth-proofed. Color for the felt shall approximate the outer shell color.

Stretch mesh knit. A stretch mesh material shall be used in the back bi-swing. This piece is not visible in the final jacket, as it is concealed by the lining. Mesh shall be cut 2 inches wide and ends shall extend 1 inch beyond the edges of left and right inside bi-swing fold line of back panels. Place mesh 5-1/2 inches below neck edge. Mesh shall be lock-stitched at center back seam and on edge of folds. Mesh shall not be stretched and shall lay flat after it is stitched to panels (see Figure 3). Knit material is 5.5 ounce per square yard nominal offering 4-way stretch and recovery properties and shall be black.

Twill tape. Cotton twill tape used for reinforcement of lower arm sleeve assembly, shoulder seam, and bi-swing pleat assembly tacking top of shoulder lining to shell, , and holding down brass belt retainer shall be A-A-52071, Type I, 1/4 inch width.

Padding material. Padding for shoulder shall be MIL-P-15064, Type I, Man's, Class I Army. Finished pad shall measure 4 3/4 (±1/4) inches at point of widest dimension and 10 (±1/4) inches straight across the bottom, 14 (+1 / -1/2) inches with a thickness of 1/2 (±1/8) inches thick at vertical center at 0.1 pounds per square inch with one-inch anvil. Padding for sleeve head shall be MIL-P-15064, Type IV, Man's, Class I Army. Sleeve-heads shall be commercially available polyester-needle punch weighing 3 ounces per square yard nominal at thickness of 0.050 inches minimum. Use unbleached A-A-52094, Type I or II, size Tex 60 cotton thread for stitching and seaming of pads and sleeve heads.

Snaps. HG jackets use MIL-DTL-10884, Style 3, Brass, Black oxidized (matte), 16 ligne (3/8 inch) stud assembly on epaulette. The male portion of the snap is attached to the neck end of the epaulette and the female piece is attached to the shoulder seam (see 3.6.6). Snap fastener model: YKK 16/H brass Snapet, DK7-0000-359 or equal.

Canvas. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to type XVIII of MIL-C-15065. Materials used shall meet A-A-52102, Type I requirements using 5.0- 7.0 ounce per square yard woven haircloth canvas using 33% cotton warp, 37% polyester monofilament and 30% goat hair filling. Top layer shall use either C-F-206, Type III, roll felt ranging from 2.9 - 3.2 ounce per square yard or A-A-50129, 4.0 ounce per square yard minimum double napped cotton. Cut materials according to coat front patterns.

Emblems. There shall be official emblem patches applied to the left and right sleeves of the jacket. The sleeve emblems shall be attached to the body material only. The thread used for attachment shall match the merrowed edge thread color on the emblem AMO jacket emblems. The AMO keystone emblem (CBPCBP-078) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The AMO round emblem (CBPOAM-199) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

OFO jacket emblems. The Honor Guard arch shaped emblem (CBPOFO-082) shall be located on the right sleeve 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The top of the OFO keystone emblem (CBPOFO-159) shall meet the bottom of the Honor Guard arch shaped emblem. An Honor Guard arch shaped emblem (CBPOFO-082) shall be located on the left sleeve 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The top of the OFO round emblem (CBPOFO-160) shall meet the bottom of the Honor Guard arch shaped emblem.

USBP jacket emblems. The USBP keystone emblem (CBPOBP-103) shall be applied to the right sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam. The USBP round emblem (CBPOBP-104) shall be applied to the left sleeve approximately 7/8 (±1/8) inch below the sleeve set seam and centered along shoulder seam.

Design. The jacket shall be the Honor Guard Jacket style. It shall be single breasted and hip length, with a peak lapel collar and a bi-swing back. It shall fasten with four button/buttonhole closures at the center front. There shall be belt retainer clips located on the side back seams. All buttonholes shall be in accordance with ASTM 6193. It shall have box-X-stitched functional epaulettes and two applied chest pockets with scalloped flaps located on each front panel. There shall be a double welt pocket with flap at the high-hip level on the front panels. The sleeve hems shall have a contrasting cuff overlay. The jacket shall be fully lined. See Figures 4 through 8 for illustrations of the design.

Body detail. The front shall fasten with four button/buttonhole closures. The top three buttons shall be secured through, eyelet-end, straight finish style buttonholes. The bottom button (flat 4-hole) shall be permanently sewn to the jacket front panel only (not facing). The jacket shall fasten left over right. There shall be three (3) stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) on right front following markings on pattern, with the center of each eyelet located 1 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge. There shall be four (4) horizontal buttonholes on left front following markings on pattern with the edge of the eyelet stitching located 5/8 inch (±1/8) from the finished edge of the front closure. Shank buttons and plain button shall properly engage to buttonholes so that jacket lies flat without bulging. There shall be two pleated style pockets with scalloped flaps and two hip-level pockets with scalloped flaps located on each front panel (see Figure 9). The back shall be a two-piece, pleated bi-swing style. There shall be a seam down the center of the back.

Inside detail. The inside front panels shall have facings constructed from body material. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. There shall be an opening in the lining-to-hem seam on the right side for button removal. There shall be a double welt pocket at chest level on each inside front. The welts shall be constructed out of body material. The pocket openings shall measure approximately 4-1/2 inches wide by 1/2 inches deep. The pocket bags shall be constructed of lining material and shall be reinforced at the bottom. Underarm shields shall be bound with lining material, attached to each underarm and stitched down all around. Left and right upper chest pieces shall have floating chest pieces. There shall be a hanger loop formed by creating a loop of Braid (MIL-B-371, Type II) with a 1-1/2 inch finished opening, located at center back. The loop shall be inserted into the lining-to-neck seam and bartacked on the seam allowance, so that the bartack is not visible.. The center back lining shall have a pleat. The pleat shall measure approximately 1 inch deep at the upper end and shall taper to nothing in accordance with the patterns.

The jacket shall have a back vent at the center back with finished measurements of 9-1/2 inches tall by 2 inches wide.

Pockets. There shall be two pleated applied chest pockets with scalloped flaps located on each front panel. The pockets shall be constructed out of body material with fused interfacing and lined with lining material. The pockets shall have a center pleat that measures approximately 1-3/8 (±1/8) inches wide. The bottom corners of each pocket shall be rounded. The top edge of each pocket shall be bound with lining material. The pocket exterior measurements shall be 5 1/2 (±1/8) inches wide by 6 1/2 (±1/8) inches tall (measured at pocket center). The flaps shall be constructed out of body material and lined with lining material. The flap exterior measurements shall be 5-3/4 (±1/8) inches wide by 3-1/8 (±1/8) inches tall at the edges 3-1/8 inches tall at the center, and 2-7/8 (±1/8) inches tall at the shortest point (between center point and edges) and in accordance with pattern templates. There shall be a single 1-inch, no-eye closed lapel-style buttonhole on each pocket flap. Buttonholes shall be vertical, centered between the finished side edges on each flap and with the bottom edge of the buttonhole stitching 5/8 (±1/8) from the point of the flap. Only cut or drill the eyelet if necessary. There shall be an official shank style removable button in a size, style and color in accordance with 3.4.1, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings. Each side of the flaps shall be stitched down with stitching superimposed over the outside row of topstitching to the jacket so they cannot be turned up.

The Honor Guard jacket shall have two (2) double-welt pockets with flaps at the hip level. The finished pocket opening dimensions shall be 6-1/2 (±1/8) inch wide by 1/2 (±1/8) inch deep. The flap exterior measurements shall be 6-1/2 (±1/8) inches wide by 3-1/8 (±1/8) inches tall at the edges 3-1/8 inches tall at the center, and 2-7/8 (±1/8) inches tall at the shortest point (between center point and edges) and in accordance with pattern templates. There shall be a single 1-inch, no-eye closed lapel-style buttonhole on each pocket flap. Buttonholes shall be vertical, centered between the finished side edges on each flap and with the bottom edge of the buttonhole stitching 5/8 (±1/8) from the point of the flap. Only cut or drill the eyelet if necessary. There shall be an official shank style removable button in a size, style and color in accordance with 3.4.1, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings. Each side of the flaps shall be stitched down with stitching superimposed over the outside row of topstitching to the jacket so they cannot be turned up.

Collar. The collar shall be constructed from body material and shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. The collar shall be attached to the lining/facing construction and shall have a finished collar height measurement of 3-1/8 (±1/8) inches tall at the collar center. The collar points shall measure approximately 1-1/2 inches long. The under collar shall be constructed from felt under collar material (see 3.4.4). The peak of the lapel shall measure approximately 2-1/2 inches long, thus measuring approximately 1 inch longer than the collar point. The open notch between the collar point and the lapel shall measure approximately 1/8 inch. The lapel shall break approximately 1 inch above the top button.

Sleeves. The sleeves shall be two-piece style with a 1-7/8-inch header. There shall be a cuff overlay of contrast material sewn,in accordance with the patterns, on the top sleeve at the bottom end of the sleeve. They shall measure approximately 6 inches tall at the center peak and approximately 4 inches tall at each seam. Only the lower half of each sleeve and the cuff overlay shall have fused interlining attached, in accordance with the patterns.

Epaulettes. The epaulettes (see Figure 10) shall be constructed using the appropriate contrast material. There shall be functional epaulettes, constructed from two layers of contrast material, centered over each shoulder seam. A male snap type fastener shall be attached to the epaulette, 7/8 inch from the point of the epaulette. The female snap fastener shall be positioned on the shoulder seam to correspond with the male portion, allowing the epaulette to lay flat without twisting, bunching or wrinkling. They shall be interlined with fusible interfacing. Epaulettes shall be inserted into the armhole seam. There shall be box X-stitched at the armhole end. The epaulettes shall taper and end at a point, measuring approximately 2 inches at the armhole edge, tapering down to approximately 1-3/4 inches, and terminating to a point at the neck edge. . The length of the epaulette shall be dependent on the shoulder seam length and shall grade as the jacket increases/decreases in size. The epaulette point shall lay 3/4 inch from the finished edge of the under collar. There shall be a single 1 inch no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design, on each epaulette. Buttonhole shall be sewn horizontal, centered between the long edges with the bottom edge of the eyelet 1-1/4 (±1/8) inch from the point end. There shall be an official U.S. Customs and Border Protection, 24-ligne, shank style removable button, in a color and style to match the other buttons on the jacket, secured through each buttonhole eyelet with washer and O-rings.

Badge tabs.

AMO badge tabs. There shall be two stitched vertically aligned eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) above the left chest pocket. They shall be spaced approximately 1-1/4 inch apart, center to center. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 1-1/4 inch above the top edge of the left chest pocket. Eyelets shall be centered vertically at the center of the chest pocket, and in accordance with pattern markings.

OFO badge tabs. There shall be a 2-1/4 inch sewn strip of body material with two stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) above the left chest pocket. They shall be spaced approximately 1-1/2 inch apart, center to center. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 1-1/4 inch above the top edge of the left chest pocket. The sewn strip shall be centered vertically at the center of the chest pocket, and in accordance with pattern markings.

USBP badge tabs. There shall be two stitched eyelets approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) on the left chest pocket flap. They shall be spaced approximately 1-1/4 inch apart, center to center. The center of the lower eyelet shall be placed approximately 3/4 inch from the bottom edge and 1-1/2 inch away from the edge that is closest to the jacket opening.

Nameplate. There shall be two sewn eyelets centers approximately 5/16 inch in diameter with opened centers (cut or drilled if necessary) above the right chest pocket. They shall be spaced approximately 1-5/8 inch apart, center to center. The center of each eyelet shall be placed approximately 3/4 inch above the top edge of the right breast pocket. Eyelets shall be centered horizontally at the center of the breast pocket, and in accordance with pattern markings.

Label. The label for the jacket shall be white, and contain shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, National Stock Number (NSN) if applicable, care instructions and size. The label shall comply with the rules and regulations of the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and the Textile Products Identification Act and Care Labeling Act.

Care instructions. Care instructions shall be as recommended by the suppliers of the materials.

Thread for label. The thread for attaching the label shall be A-A-50199 type I or II, Tex 40. The color for the label shall match the basic material color.

Stitching and seam allowance. All seams shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D 6193 seam and stitch types listed in TABLE IV. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged. All pocket flaps shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin/looper thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn 11 (±1) stitches per inch. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 (±2) stitches per inch. Buttons for 36-ligne front closure, pocket flaps, epaulettes shall be shank type buttons with washers and O-rings. USBP, 24 ligne buttonholes shall have a 5/8-inch opening. Bottom front closure button shall be attached with 16 stitches per button and tension set that allows button to easily operate in/out buttonhole. All top stitching shall have a minimum of 2 back stitches. Front closure buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, straight finish design with one-inch opening. Pocket flaps and epaulettes use 1-inch-long no-eye closed lapel buttonhole design. (See ASTM 6193, Figure 1.3). Tack ends of all buttonhole stitching and gimp by machine or hand with a vertical bartack centered on both legs of the buttonhole. Front closure buttons (3) are attached via sewn 1/8-inch open diameter eyelets versus remaining attached at eyelet end opening on lapel buttonholes. No buttonhole or eyelets shall have thread extending beyond 1/4 inch.

Stitching. Stitches used shall be in accordance with TABLE III. Top of sleeve cuff overlay uses double-needle topstitching.

· Chest pockets shall be stitched, turned, and topstitched around three edges: each side and the lower scalloped edge on pocket flap.

· Sewn eyelets shall be 5/16 inch sewn diameter with 5/32-inch center opening (enough for button shank to enter).

· The collar shall have 3/16-inch zigzag (304), blindstitch (105) or hand stitching, with approximately 11 stitches per inch.

TABLE IV. Seam and stitching types.

Box-X-stitch. A 2 inch long box-X stitch is tapered evenly to the contour of the existing inside stitching. Wide end of epaulette is inserted into shoulder seam. Epaulette is box-X stitched through shoulder body, but not through lining.

Bi-swing stitching. Bi-swing pattern piece has no fusible interlining. A piece of 1/4-inch cotton twill tape is sewn into bi-swing outside fold line. The bi-swing fold line shall be stitched closed 3 inches below the top shoulder seam, and 4 inches above bottom of bi-swing, superimposed on stitching.

Seam allowance. The patterns for the jackets shall include seam allowances as cited below.

· 1/2 inch for all joining seams unless otherwise noted.

· The sleeves shall have a hem allowance of approximately 1-1/2 inch when finished (2-inch turn-up).

· 3/4 inch for joining center back shell fabric.

· 3/8 inch for joining edges of top and under collar, collar to neck, facing to front jacket, and joining the shell and lining for chest pocket and flaps.

· 1/4 inch for attaching pocket flaps to jacket, joining side ends of top and under collar and epaulettes.

Cuff overlay stitching. The cuff overlay for the jacket shall be stitched as follows using 301 type stitching:

1. Sew under arm and backside of sleeve lining 3/8 inches from edges with SSa-1, turn back lining sharply 1/2 inch.

2. Align hem lines on Cuff Overlay and Top Sleeve, face-to-face, so that Cuff Overlay peak points away from the sleeve cap. Sew along hem line, edge-to-edge, using a 301-type stitch.

3. Turn Cuff Overlay back, so that the peak now points toward the cap-end of the seam. Turn back the seam allowance on the top curves of the Cuff Overlayand seam LSd-2 with double topstitch along top Cuff Overlay pattern piece. Gauge, 2-needle 301 top stich starting 1/16 inch Cuff Overlay upper edge.

4. Sew sleeve shell components together, and perform corresponding operation to sleeve lining components, using SSa-1 seams.

5. Finished sleeve hem shall be turned back along hem line, so that Overlay bottom edge and sleeve hem are flush. Sleeve shell and sleeve lining bottom edges shall be aligned edge-to-edge and sewn using 1/2 inch seam allowance withno stitch lines showing externally on cuff or through inside lining.

Seam smoothness. When tested in accordance with Table VI, the seams shall have an initial smoothness rating of 5 and rating of 3.5 (minimum) after laundering in accordance with the care label.

Figures. Figures 1-10 are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. Minor modifications, which shall not alter the design, serviceability, appearance or finished measurements, are permitted to create the contractors’ working patterns and to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and all measurements must be maintained as specified by the Government.

List of pattern parts. The pattern list for the jacket in TABLE V is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from specified materials, in accordance with TABLE V.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts.

TABLE V. List of pattern parts. Continued

Manufacturing requirements. The jacket shall be cut in strict accordance with the furnished pattern pieces. Component parts shall be cut from the same dye lot of fabric. The use of drill holes on the jacket except as a means to facilitate the attachment and removal of buttons and in the eyelets for attachment of a nameplate and badge shall be prohibited.

Construction. All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned-in, turned-under or serged unless otherwise indicated in this PD or in the contract. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern. All fusibles for epaulettes, collar stand and pocket flaps, collar, wool undercollar material, whole front pieces, inside breast pocket facing, front chest pockets, front and back bottom hem, and armhole shield shall be bonded per manufacturers recommended setting using a fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron or any steam device. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press capable of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time and temperature for 8 hours. Note that any change in basic material shade may be due to sublimation and would require the all pattern pieces without fusible go through fusing process to maintain shade quality.

Configuration. Each jacket shall conform to appearance (see Figures 4-7), the finished measurements in TABLE VI (as applicable), and the stitches specified in 3.8 in order to maintain configuration compliance.

Finished measurements. The finished jackets shall conform to the measurements listed in TABLE VI below.

TABLE VI. Finished Measurements.

1/ Chest: Measure across front at armhole seam from folded edge to folded edge with jacket buttoned and laid flat. Measurement doubled.

2/ Waist. Measure across front from folded edge to folded edge at the narrowest point of the waist. Measurement doubled.

3/ Shoulder: Measure from arm seam to arm seam across shoulders.

4/Center Back: Measure along center back from collar/body seam to bottom of jacket.

5/Sleeve length: Measure from Center Back Neck Point to shoulder point then along the outer flattened folded edge of sleeve straight to bottom of hem.

PD-11

Toxicity. The materials, components and finished jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity documents. Finishes/chemicals used in the process of this garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

Workmanship. After completion of the final assembly, the jacket shall be thoroughly cleaned and all thread scraps, lint and foreign matter shall be removed and all closures engaged prior to packaging. The jacket shall be uniform in quality and shall be free from irregularities or defects (see TABLE VII) which could adversely affect fit, performance, reliability or durability. Jackets shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description. The following critical components shall exhibit finished appearance. Epaulettes, pocket flaps, collar shall be uniformly stitched, smooth and flat, without twisting, gathers, pleats or raw edges with a uniform shape and size, collar shall hug the neck line. Sleeve and sleeve linings shall be uniform in width, pressed smooth and flat and lining shall not be short or tight at bottom of sleeve. Back seam pieces shall be joined evenly, without gathers, puckers or pleats. Right and left vents shall finish smooth and flat. Front darts, pockets and flaps shall be even without pleats or gathers. All pocket and flap top edges shall be parallel to front edge of jacket and even in appearance. Lapel points shall be even across; no stitch lines shall show through face side. Shoulder seams shall exhibit correct fullness, be flat and smooth without distortion and match shoulder line on front patterns. Sleeves shall be set uniformly and even side to side with fullness at front and back armhole without pleats and puckers. Top buttonhole shall be positioned in horizontal alignment with the center of buttons in the breast pocket flaps and parallel with the front edge of the jacket. The remaining three buttonholes shall be evenly spaced 3-1/2 inches apart and parallel with the top buttonhole. Finished jacket shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions. Top of the sleeves shall be blocked and pressed having a rolled effect at front to back. There shall not be any strike through, strike back or residue fusible adhesive on jacket and the jacket shall be capable of being dry-cleaned and steam pressed 25 times without bubbling, delamination, strike through, shrinkage or any sign of sewing threads unravelling or lining material looking out of shape.

VERIFICATION

Conformance inspection. Jackets submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements.

Inspection conditions. Components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents.

Component and end item visual examination. Each jacket shall be subjected to visual examination. In accordance with TABLE VII, material and garment defects shall be scored which are clearly noticeable at normal viewing distance (3 feet) and which affect the serviceability or appearance of the finished jacket. Material defects are defined in Section I of FED-STD-4. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements. Shade shall be evaluated at a distance of 3 feet.

TABLE VII. End item visual examination

Knots greater than Sears Scale Level C1/ (See 2.3)

Slubs greater than Sears Scale Level D1/ (See 2.3)

Not specified type, size or color

Color or type not as specified

Size, combination identification/care labels not placed correctly

Hangtags/UPC labels not placed securely attached in correct position

Barcode/UPC code not visible on folded, packaged item

Loose stitching, incorrect number of stitches

TABLE VII. End item visual examination - Continued

Button holes not as specified

Buttonholes not cleanly cut to required opening size

Seams and Stitching

Loose or tight stitch tension

Less than 1/2 inch in length

Seam allowance not as required by stitch type

Cleanness/ Workmanship

Excessive thread ends (more than 3)

Between 1/4 to 1-1/2 inch

All closures on jacket not engaged

1/ Using SDL Atlas Fabric Defect Scales End item dimensional examination.