IW Skirt PD- 13 Sept 2023 Final review V0003.pdf

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SOLICITATION - U. S. Army West Point India White Coats, Trousers, Dresses
Solicitation number
W911SD-26-Q-A114
Issued by

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This is a Purchase Description (PD) for the India White skirt intended for wear by female cadets at the United States Military Academy (USMA) at West Point. The document specifies requirements for manufacturing, inspection, testing, and packaging of the skirt in waist sizes 25 through 36 and five length options (Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long, and Extra Long).

The skirt shall be constructed from a polyester/cotton twill blend conforming to WP-PD-21-01, featuring a three-piece design with two back pieces and one front piece, a one-piece set-in waistband with hook and eye closure, an invisible slide fastener, two front darts and four back darts, a single kick pleat at the back, and an unhemmed bottom with all exposed edges overedge stitched. Materials include DHJ Style 375 fusible interlining, non-rollover waistband stabilizers, silver/nickel hooks and eyes, size #3 seven-inch white slide fasteners, and polyester core or cotton thread in white. Finished skirts must conform to specific measurements with tolerances of ±1/2 inch for waist, hip, and sweep, and ±3/4 inch for hem lengths. Inspection requirements include first article inspection, conformance inspection per ASQ/ANSI ZI.4 sampling, and component/end-item inspection per MIL-STD-1609 and ASTM D3990. Testing requirements include visual shade matching per AATCC EP9 using CIE Illuminant D65 lighting, dimensional change testing per AATCC TM158 with a maximum of 2 percent shrinkage in warp and filling, and toxicity testing demonstrating compatibility with prolonged skin contact. Known suppliers are identified for waistband stabilizers (QST), slide fasteners (Dunlap Industries), and thread (Coats). Packaging shall follow Cadet Uniform Factory storage practices. Standard samples and patterns are available from ASCE-LWP-CU, Cadet Uniform Factory, West Point, New York.

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DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

WP-PD-22 XX

XX July 2023

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SKIRT, INDIA WHITE

This purchase description (PD) is approved for use by the United States Military Academy

(USMA).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This PD covers the requirement for the India White (IW) skirt intended for wear by female cadets at the USMA at West Point.

1.2 Classification. The skirt will be available in the following sizes:

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

Waist Sizes Lengths

Extra Short

XS

Short S

Regular R

Long L

Extra Long

XL

25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 and 36 X X X X X

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM - Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019, and the Cadet Uniform Factory, 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY, 10996, ATTN: ASCE-LWP-CU.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

WP-PD-22-XX

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this PD.

This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this PD recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this PD, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1609 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Women’s Skirts

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this purchase description of the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

WP-PD-21-01 - Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton, White (Local Stock Number C0053)

(Copies of these documents are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC TM158 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in

Perchloroethylene: Machine Method

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANZI ZI.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Unless a specific exemption has been obtained, nothing in this document supersedes applicable laws and regulations.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.1.3 Component and end item inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to component and end item inspection in accordance with 4.4.

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished skirt shall match the standard samples for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials should be used to the maximum https://aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/ extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The skirt shall be made of three (3) major pieces. Two (2) pieces for the back and one (1) piece for the front, with a one-piece set-in waistband with both ends to close at the center back with a hook and eye closure and invisible slide fastener. Each skirt shall have two

(2) front darts and four (4) back darts, a single kick pleat at the back, positioned in accordance with the marks on the pattern, and an unhemmed bottom. All exposed edges shall be overedge stitched, except for the bottom.

3.4.1 Figures. Figures 1 through 3 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written PD and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material (Local Stock Number COO53). The cloth shall be made of a polyester/ cotton blend and shall conform to WP-PD-21-01 Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton, White (Local Stock Number (C0053)

3.5.2 Interlining. The fusible interlining shall conform to DHJ Style 375, or equivalent. The color shall be white.

3.5.3 Waistband stand (Local Stock Number TR0175). The waistband shall include two (2) waistband material stabilizers. The upper section material shall be a non-rollover type. The color shall be white.

(See 6.6.1).

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Hook (Local Stock Number F0076). The hook shall conform to Stock Number F0076 Hook, Skirt, silver/nickel. The color of the hook shall be silver/nickel.

3.6.2 Eye (Local Stock Number F0077). The eye shall conform to Stock Number F0077 Eye, Skirt, silver/nickel. The color of the eye shall be silver/nickel.

3.6.3 Slide Fastener (Local Stock Number Z0192). The slide fastener shall be non-separating, non-reversible, with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, invisible continuous, mono-filament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Stock Number Z0149 Zipper, Skirt, White. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material. The component parts of the slide fastener shall be a good match to the basic material. The color of the coil may be clear. The slide fastener shall be size #3 and 7-inches in length for all sizes. (6.6.2)

3.6.4 Thread (Local Stock Number TH0043). The thread for stitching and seaming shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester covered, Tex 36-45, 2-ply, or 3-ply and for over edge stitching, Tex 31-35, 2-ply conforming to A-A-50199. As an alternate, cotton thread conforming to Tyle I of A-A-52094 may be used. The color for stitching the skirt shall white. (6.6.3)

FIGURE 1. Identification and size labels.

3.6.5 Labels (Local Stock Number TR0095). Each skirt shall be labeled in accordance with CUF requirements. The inscription on the label shall be legible and label attachment shall last the expected life of the skirts. (see 6.6.4)

3.6.5.1 Identification label. The identification label shall be sewn on all four (4) sides of the inner waistband at the center front with the top edge of the label at the top edge of the waistband.

Sew at 1/16-inch seam (Type 301 topstitch). The stitching shall not cover the printing and the label shall be facing the body and not visible on the outside of the garment. The size and barcode label shall be sewn at the bottom of the label and only be sewn on one side at the bottom edge of the waistband. (See Figure 1)

3.6.5.2 Size and barcode label. Each skirt shall have a barcode on the size label. The barcoding element shall be the 13-digit NSN. The barcode shall be medium to high density and shall be located so that it is under the West Point label, leaving 1/16-inch from the bottom edge of the West Point label to the start of the front of the barcode and completely visible on the skirt when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the skirt. All label information shall be clear and legible from a normal viewing distance of 3-feet. The size of the label shall include the size, waist measurement, and length as specified in Table III.

(See Figure 1).

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns, shall be furnished by the CUF. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation and manufacturing procedures; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. The patterns provide for a seam allowance of 3/8-inch (± 1/16-inch) unless otherwise specified. The component parts of the skirts shall be cut from material specified. The component parts of the skirt shall be cut from material specified in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table I.

TABLE I. Pattern list

Cloth Nomenclature Pattern Name Cut Direction Cut Pieces

Basic Material (See 3.5.1 and 3.5.2)

IW Front Skirt IW SKIRT FRONT Single ply face down 1

IW Back Skirt IW SKIRT BACK Single ply face down 2

IW Skirt Waistband IW SKIRT

WAISTBAND

Single ply face down 1

Interlining IW Front Skirt Lining

IW SKIRT FRONT

LINING

Single ply face down 1

IW Back Skirt Lining

IW SKIRT BACK

LINING

Single ply face down 2

3.7.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. All information relating to stitches, seams, and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193 and be in accordance with the operations as specified by the

CUF.

3.7.3 End item seam and fabric appearance.

3.7.3.1 End item seams and fabric appearance rating. After the finished skirt has been dry-cleaned or laundered two (2) times in accordance with 4.7, the appearance rating of the seams and stitching and fabric appearances shall be specified in Table II.

TABLE II. Appearance ratings.

Part Rating (minimum) 1/

Fabric overall 3.7 Side seams 3.3 1/ The average of three (3) observations with no individual observation lower than a rating of “3”.

3.7.4 Marking. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the skirt. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices

b. Sew-on type tickets

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material upon removal of the ticket.

3.7.5 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component and end item conforms to the required size, dimensions, and configurations. Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.7.1.

3.7.6 Manufacturing requirements. The skirt shall be cut in strict accordance with the government furnished pattern. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on the skirt is prohibited.

3.7.7 Fused material. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material, on an electric dry heated conveyor or flathead style fusing press which has the capability of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature within an 8 hour period. For optimum results with a particular fusible style and press used, settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining.

3.7.7.1 Bonding strength and appearance of fusible. After this skirt has been laundered or dry cleaned two (2) times, it shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no “strike- through” of adhesive after fusing.

3.7.8 Waistband. The waistband shall have a stay, positioned on the wrong side of the waistband at 1/4-inch from the edge of the waistband and 1/8-inch from the edge of the over edge seam and edge-to-edge with the top of the waistband. Waistband shall be sewn at 1/8-inch seam (Type 301 Topstitch) along the right edge, from top to bottom.

3.7.9 Darts.

3.7.9.1 Back darts. The four (4) back darts shall be positioned in accordance with the markings on the pattern; two darts on either side of the slide fastener. The darts shall be sewn starting at the top of the piece, on the wrong side, to 3/4 inches under the marking as on the patterns.

3.7.9.2 Front darts. The two (2) front darts shall be positioned in accordance with the markings on the pattern. The darts shall be sewn starting at the top of the piece, on the wrong side, to 3/4 inches under the marking as on the patterns.

3.7.10 Hook and eye.

3.7.10.1 Eye. The eye shall be manually sewn on the left side of the skirt, at the center of the waistband and line up with the slide fastener of the skirt. The stitching shall pass through three

(3) times, through each of the four (4) holes of the eye.

3.7.10.2 Hook. The hook shall be manually sewn 1/4-inch from the edge of the waistband opening, parring through each of the five (5) holes three (3) times.

3.7.11 Slide fastener closure. The closure shall finish smooth and flat without twists, puckers, or excessive fullness when the slide fastener is closed and the hook is attached to the eye.

3.7.12 Bottom hem. The bottom hem shall be left unfinished.

3.7.13 Cleaning. All loose thread shall be removed. All spots, stains and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.7.14 Pressing and closing skirt. The skirt shall have a finished and pressed appearance. If necessary, to achieve the required finished press appearance, touch-up fronts and backs before storing. The skirt shall be fully closed prior to storing.

3.8 Size and finished measurements. The finished skirt shall conform to measurements as specified in Table III when tested as specified in Table V. The skirt shall be measured lying flat with the back hook and eye fastener and slide fastener engaged and completely closed.

THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE III. Sizes and finished measurements (inches).

Size

SKIRT, INDIA WHITE

1/2

Waist 1/2 Hip

1/2 Sweep Hem Lengths (unfinished) 4/

1/ 2/ 3/ XS S R L XL

25 12-5/8 19-1/4 19-7/8 21-3/8 23-3/8 25-3/8 27-3/8 29-3/8

26 13-1/8 19-5/8 20-3/8 21-1/2 23-1/2 25-1/2 27-1/2 29-1/2

27 13-5/8 20-1/4 20-7/8 21-5/8 23-5/8 25-5/8 27-5/8 29-5/8

28 14-1/8 20-5/8 21-3/8 21-3/4 23-3/4 25-3/4 27-3/4 29-3/4

29 14-5/8 21-1/4 21-7/8 21-7/8 23-7/8 25-7/8 27-7/8 29-7/8

30 15-1/8 21-5/8 22-3/8 22 24 26 28 30

31 15-5/8 22-1/4 22-7/8 22-1/8 24-1/8 26-1/8 28-1/8 30-1/8

32 16-1/8 22-5/8 23-3/8 22-1/4 24-1/4 26-1/4 28-1/4 30-1/4

33 16-5/8 23-1/4 23-7/8 22-3/8 24-3/8 26-3/8 28-3/8 30-3/8

34 17-1/8 23-5/8 24-3/8 22-1/2 24-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2

35 17-5/8 24-1/4 24-7/8 22-5/8 24-5/8 26-5/8 28-5/8 30-5/8

36 18-1/8 24-5/8 25-3/8 22-3/4 24-3/4 26-3/4 28-3/4 30-3/4

Tolerance (Inches) ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±3/4 ±3/4 ±3/4 ±3/4 ±3/4

1/ Half Waist – Measurement taken at top of waistband from side of skirt to side of skirt.

2/ Half Hip – Measurement taken 9 inches down from top of waistband from side of skirt to side of skirt.

3/ Half Sweep – Measurement taken at unfinished raw edge from side of skirt to side of skirt.

4/ Hem Length - Measurement taken from the top of skirt waistband to the raw edge at center front.

3.9 Dimensional Change. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished skirt shall have dimensional change no greater than 2 percent in both the warp and the filling when tested in accordance with AATCC TM158 (see Table V).

3.10 Toxicity. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished skirt shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.7.3.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished skirt shall conform to the quality of the product established in this document. The skirt shall be free from defects, as specified in 4.5, which would affect its serviceability, appearance, uniformity.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

c. Component and end item inspection (see 4.4)

4.1.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this PD or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the requirements of referenced documents.

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be inspected for design, examined for color and appearance in 3.2, finished dimensions in Table III, End item visual defects in Table IV, and tested as specified in Table V.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include examination of defects as specified in 4.5.1, finished measurements in 3.8, and the tests in 4.5. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI ZI.4 and Acceptance Quality Limits (AQL) as defined in the contract order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document are applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.5 End item examination.

4.5.1 End item visual examination. Each skirt shall be examined for the defects specified in MIL-STD-1609 and ASTM D3990. The lot shall be expressed in units of skirts. All fabric and garments defects shall be scored in accordance with Table IV which are clearly visible when examined at a distance of 3-feet, affects serviceability and appearance of the finished skirts. If needed, closer inspection will be performed to verify compliance to specified requirements.

TABLE IV. End item visual defects.

Examine Defect description Classification

Major Minor Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part 101 Component color not as specified 102

Component parts

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part, misplaced, or omitted 103 Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment 201

Stitches and seams

Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, or irregular, not as specified, needle chew or irregular stitching, or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams 104 Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured 105 Visible mend, pleat, or crease 106 Needle perforations clearly visible on outside 107 Any part of skirt caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

Darts Not as specified and shows puckering (dimples) at the end point of the dart

Pressing Some or all pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area, not presenting a finished appearance, poorly pressed

Slide Fastener Slide fastener not as specified and not properly attached 110 Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable

Three (3) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 1/4-inch or less or not removed Odor affecting serviceability, any lint, dust, or foreign matter not removed Any shade identification marking visible on outside of skirt (as worn) Two (2) or more shade identification labels not removed

Workmanship Distorted parts or poor workmanship, drill hole on skirt Any edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds more than 1/16-inch

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified 115 Presentation/ Storage

Any skirt not presented or stored in accordance with the contract or purchase order 206

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The skirt shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table III. Any dimensions not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a failure. The lot size shall be expressed in units of skirts. The inspection and the AQL, expressed in terms of failures per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract of purchase order.

4.7 End item testing. The skirts shall be tested in accordance with the test methods specified in Table V and 4.5.1. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The samples units shall be three (3) finished skirts for visual appearance after laundering or dry cleaning and heat exposure to dry and wet. The lot shall be as stated in the contract or purchase order. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) sample unit fails to meet any requirements specified.

TABLE V. End item test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method Visual Shade Matching 3.2 4.5.4.1 Dimensional Changes After two (2) Dry Cleaning cycles

3.9

AATCC TM158

Toxicity 3.10 4.5.4.2

4.7.1 Fusible interlining. The weight of the fusible interlining shall be tested in accordance with ASTM D3776/D3776M.

4.7.2 Components All components shall be measured with an appropriate calibrated measuring device.

4.7.3 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.9) can be demonstrated with historical use data on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (6.9).

4.7.4 Methods of inspection

4.7.4.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the skirt shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C, (see 6.5) with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE Illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 (± 200) Kelvin (K) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles. Alternatively, the color and appearance of the skirt shall match the standard sample with a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE Illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K

(± 200) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles in lieu of D65. (See 6.5.1). The skirt shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE Illuminant A, with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.7.4.2 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirements (see 3.9) can be demonstrated with historical use data on the finished treatment used, toxicity resting may not be required (see 6.7 and 6.9).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. CUF storage practices of finished garments shall be followed.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory)

6.1 Intended use. The skirt is for wear by female personnel of the USMA as part of the Cadet Uniform.

6.1.1 Finished alteration lengths.

TABLE VI. Finished alteration lengths.

Skirt Pattern Length

Shortest Hem Length 1/, 2/, Longest Hem Length 1/

Kick Pleat Shortest Length

(finished)

Kick Pleat Longest Length

3/(finished)

Tolerance

X-Short 17 19-3/4 3-3/4 10-1/4 1/4 Short 19 21-3/4 3-3/4 10-1/4 1/4

Regular 21 23-3/4 3-3/4 10-1/4 1/4 Long 23 25-3/4 3-3/4 10-1/4 1/4 X-Long 25 27-3/4 3-3/4 10-1/4 1/4 XX-Long 27 29-3/4 3-3/4 10-1/4 1/4

1/ Length includes the waistband 2/ Proper hem falls 1-inch above to 2-inches below the center of the knee from the fold of the back of the knee.

3/ Kick-Pleat Longest Length – after hemming.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this document.

b. Size and length requirement (see 1.2).

c. The specific issues of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3)

d. When first article is required (see 3.1.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Conformance inspection (see 3.1.2 and 4.3).

f. Toxicity testing when required (see 3.9, 4.7.3 and 6.9).

g. Inspection conditions (see 4.1.1).

h. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples. For access to standard samples and patterns of the skirt, contact the following: ASCE-LWP-CU, Cadet Uniform Factory, 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY 10996.

6.5 Visual shade matching. In 2017, Option A of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles was changed to Option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “the specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 (± 5°) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimen at a 90° angle, relative to the plane of the specimens.”

6.5.1 In 2022, the U.S. Military (All Services) accepted D65 as the new preferred light source for visual shade matching due to the supply chain issues with D75.

6.6 Known sources.

6.6.1 Waistband Stand. A waistband material stabilizer meeting the requirements (see 3.5.3) of this PD is style Poly-Sheen®, which can be found at:

QST

550 West Adams Street Suite 200 Chicago, IL 60661 P: 312-930-9400 F: 312-648-0312 qstinfo@qst.com

6.6.2 Slide fasteners. Slide fasteners/zippers meeting the requirements of 3.6.3 may be obtained from:

Dunlap Industries 9621 Dayton Pike Soddy Daisy, TN 37379

6.6.3 Thread. The thread (TH0043) meeting the requirements in 3.6.4 is manufactured by Coats (Astra Tex size 40) and is available from many commercial thread suppliers.

6.6.4 Labels. The labels (see 3.6.5) are made at the CUF.

6.7 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for some requirements.

6.8 Equal item. Prior to the use of an “or equal” item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting (comparison) data to the contracting officer for approval.

6.9 Toxicity testing. If dermal toxicity testing is required, it will be conducted using Title 40, Protection of Environment, Code of Federal Regulations current edition and applicable sections, which are also consistent with the following OECD tests:

Skin Sensitization 406 and Dermal Irritation 404 (https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1)

Dermal Sensitization (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100) Dermal Toxicity (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250)

6.10 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for some requirements.

6.11 Subject term (key word) listing.

USMA

West Point Dress clothing Polyester/Cotton https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250

FIGURE 2. Skirt, India White, Front.

FIGURE 3. Skirt, India White, Back.

Custodians: Preparing Activity:

Army – GL Army – GL

Reviewing Activity

ASCE-LWP-CU CADET UNIFORM FACTORY, (CUF)

Basic Material
(See 3.5.1 and 3.5.2)

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