Final Draft WPPD2112 Trouser India White Mens 7-9-2026.pdf

FINAL DRAFT

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution Unlimited.

INCH-POUND

WP-PD-21-12

30 September 2022

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSER, INDIA WHITE, MENS

This purchase description is approved for use by the United States Military Academy (USMA).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the India White, Trouser

Mens, intended for wear by male cadets at USMA at West Point.

1.2 Classification. The trouser will be available in the following sizes, as specified.

1.3 Sizes. The trouser will be available in the following sizes (hip) and lengths:

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

Hip Size LENGTH (inches)

28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 37 1/

34 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

35 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

36 X X X X X -- -- -- X

37 X X X X X X -- -- X

38 X X X X X X X -- X

39 X X X X X X X X X

40 X X X X X X X X X

41 X X X X X X X X X

42 X X X X X X X X X

43 -- X X X X X X X X

44 -- -- X X X X X X X

45 -- -- -- X X X X X X

46 -- -- X X X -- -- X X

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM - Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEI, 10 General Greene

Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019, and the Cadet Uniform Factory, 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY, 10996, ATTN: ASCE-LWP-CU.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

SCHEDULE OF SIZES – Continued

Hip Size LENGTH (inches)

28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 37 1/

47 -- -- -- -- X X -- X X

48 -- X -- X X -- -- X X

49 -- -- X X X X -- X X

50 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

51 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

52 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

53 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

54 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

55 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

56 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- X

1/ Unhemmed

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description (PD). This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this PD or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this PD, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers, Men’s

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

WP-PD-21-01 Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton, White (Local Stock Number C0053)

(Copies of this document are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC TM130 - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release

AATCC TM150 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Garments After Home

Launderings

AATCC TM158 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in

Perchloroethylene: Machine

(Copies of these document are available online at https://aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM D6544 - Standard Practice for Preparation of Textiles Prior to Ultraviolet (UV)

Transmission Testing

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

https://aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.1.3 Component and end item inspection. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subjected to component and end item inspection in accordance with 4.4.

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished trouser shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4) when tested as specified in 4.5.3.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The trouser shall be with no belt loops or ornamental braid, with a sewn-on waistband, and a buttonhole and sewn eyelet closure. All exposed edges and the leg bottoms are over-edge stitched. The closure on the waistband closes left-over-right for all types.

3.4.1 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purpose only. To the extent of any consistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material shell fabric (Local Stock Number C0053). The basic material used for the shell shall be in accordance with WP-PD-21-01 Polyester/ Cotton twill cloth treated with optical brightener and a soil release finish. The color shall be White.

3.5.2 Lining and pocketing material (Local Stock Numbers TR0510 and TR0511). The lining material for the left fly, waistband, and pocketing material for the trouser shall be

50 percent polyester/50 percent cotton twill, conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be white. (See 6.6.4).

3.5.3 Pocket supports (Local Stock Number TR0133). There shall be two (2) pocket supports on the trouser. They shall be 7-inches in length and 1/2-inch in width. (See 6.6.3).

3.5.4 Waistband stabilizer (Local Stock Number TR0175). The waistband shall include two (2) waistband material stabilizers. The upper section material shall be a non-rollover type.

The color shall be cream. (See 6.6.1).

3.5.4.1 Waistband lining. The material for the waistband lining, which covers the waistband stabilizer materials shall conform be 100 percent polyester, 2-1/4 inches wide, pleated, in the color cream. (See 6.6.2).

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Slide fastener/zippers (Local Stock numbers Z0250-Z0270). The slide fastener/zippers shall be non-separating with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Type I, Style 4 of A-A-55634. The tape shall be 100% polyester or a blend of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material when tested in accordance with 4.5.3. The lengths shall conform to Table I. (See 6.6.5).

TABLE I. Zipper lengths.

USMA Stock

Number

Trouser Sizes Zipper Lengths

(inches)

Z0250 34-S to 41-R 10

Z0260 39-L to 47-XL 11

Z0270 48-S to 55-XL 12

3.6.2 Button and toggle. (See 6.6.8).

3.6.2.1 Button (flat)with toggle (Local Stock Number B0156). The button for the trouser shall be a 30 ligne, flat, nickel/silver with a 1/4-inch stem conforming to MIL-DTL-1563/10.

3.6.2.2 Toggle (Local Stock Number A0050). The Toggle shall be hard drawn nickel, 3/4-inch long conforming to MIL-DTL-1563/19.

3.6.3 Thread (Local Stock Number TH0042). The thread for stitching and seaming shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester covered, Tex size 36-45, 2 ply or 3 ply and for over-edge stitching, Tex size 31-35, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199. As an alternate, cotton thread conforming to Type I of A-A-52094 may be used. The color for stitching the trousers shall be a good match to the basic material. (See 6.6.7).

3.6.4 Labels (Local Stock Number (TR0095). Each pair of trousers shall be labeled in accordance with CUF requirements. The inscription on the label shall be legible and label attachment shall last the expected life of the trousers. (See 6.6.6).

3.6.4.1 Identification label. The identification label shall be attached be sewn on all four (4) sides of the inner waistband on the front left (as worn). The stitching shall not cover the printing and the label shall be facing the body and not visible on the outside of the garment. The size and barcode label shall be sewn at the bottom of the label and only be sewn on one (1) side at the bottom of the waistband. (See Figure 1).

3.6.4.2 Size and barcode label. Each pair of trousers shall have a barcode on the size label.

The bar coding element shall be the 13-digit NSN. The barcode for NSN shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the trouser when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the trouser. All label information shall be clear and legible from a normal viewing distance of 3-feet. The size label shall include the size/hip measurement, and unfinished inseam length as specified in Table III.

(See Figure 1).

1/ Lot number shall be stamped or printed with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

FIGURE 1. Example of Identification label and size and barcode label.

3.7 Construction.

3.7.1 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns, shall be furnished by the Cadet Uniform Factory (CUF). Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation and manufacturing procedures; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. The patterns provide for a seam allowance of

3/8-inch (±1/16-inch).

3.7.1.1 List of pattern parts. The pattern list in Table II is provided to ensure that the pattern set is complete. The components of the trousers shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Cloth Nomenclature Pattern Name Cut Direction Cut

Pieces

Basic

Material

(See 3.5.1)

Front MWT30FRT Face to Face 2

Back MWT30BCK Face to Face 2

Fly MWT30FLY Face to Face 2

Pocket Facing PKTFAC Face to Face 2

Lining

(See 3.5.2)

Fly Lining MWTFLYLIN Face to Face 1

Pocket Lining PKTLIN Face to Face 2

Templates Outlet for Seat seam OTLTSS_MK_SS 0

3.8 Stitches, seams and stitching. All information relating to stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193 and be accordance with the operation procedures as specified by the CUF.

3.8.1 All seams shall have 10-14 stitches per inch. Unless otherwise specified, all joining seams shall use 301 and 401 stitch types. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabrics.

The width of over-edging shall be 3/16 to 1/4 inch. The guide and knives for the over-edge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric, trimming shall not exceed

1/16-inch.

3.8.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.8.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows.

When making these repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching.

Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and re-stitching in the required manner.

3.8.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.8.1.2a and 3.8.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.8.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

3.8.1.5 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except on labels) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 seaming may be repaired using 301 stitch type.

3.8.1.6 Buttonhole and sewn eyelet.

3.8.1.6.1 Buttonhole. The buttonhole on the left front (as worn) shall be the eyelet-end taper bar type with not less than four (4) stitches at bar end (not counting the crossover stitch). The finished cut lengths shall be 7/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8-inch of the tack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric prior to stitching the buttonholes are prohibited.

3.8.1.6.2 Eyelet. The sewn eyelet on the right front (as worn) for the removable button shall be 3/8-inches in diameter with a 1/8 (+1/32,-0) inch opening. The finished eyelet shall have 28 to 36 stitches including overlapping locking stitches. The stitch length to form the eyelet shall be

1/8 (±1/32) inch. Figure 2 is provided for information only and is not to scale.

Overlapping stitches to lock

(3 stitches) stitch length opening diameter

FIGURE 2. Circular-eyelet. (not to scale)

3.8.1.7 Bartacks. Bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long, unless otherwise specified. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose or tight stitching. Bartacks shall be correctly placed to reinforce points of strain as follows:

a. Bartacks at back pocket welted openings shall be positioned at the end of the welted openings and extend to the edges of the welts and shall be perpendicular to the openings.

b. Bartack at base of fly at junction of the crotch seam and fly: the bartack shall be horizontal, positioned below the zipper stop, and 3/4 (± 1/8) inch above the bottom of the

“J-stitching”. The bartack shall not extend beyond the crotch seam.

c. The inside edges of the right and left flies shall be bartacked together.

3.8.1.8 Seat seam. The seat seam shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet strain encountered in sitting or stooping. The waist shall be measured before the seat is joined to assure correct waist size. Crotch and seat seam shall be pressed open.

3.8.1 Marking. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the trouser. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.8.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations. Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.3.

3.8.3 Manufacturing requirements. The trouser shall be cut in accordance with the pattern.

Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on trouser is prohibited.

3.8.3.1 Waistband construction. The waistband is composed of four (4) separate pieces of materials. The outer waistband lining fabric is composed of a two (2) piece material cut on the bias. The waistband shall measure not less than 2-inches wide in the finished trouser. It shall include an upper stabilizer material that is cut to 1-3/8-inches and attached to the outer waistband lining fabric and a lower stabilizer material that is cut on the bias to a length of 1-1/4 inches.

3.8.3.2 Waistband and fly front. The waistband lining shall measure not less than 2-1/4 inches wide in the finished trouser. The topstitching of the waistband shall finish 1-1/4 (± 1/16) inches from the top folded edge. The lining shall not be exposed above the top of waistband.

The fly shall have a buttonhole placed on left waistband and a sewn eyelet on the right waistband as indicated on the pattern. The left front fly shall be a single row “J-stitch” 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches from the front edge of the fly. The ends of the flies shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall be smooth and flat without twists, puckers or excessive fullness when fastener is closed.

3.8.3.3 Premade curtain. The use of a premade curtain is permitted provided it conforms to the requirements specified above (see 3.8.3.1.and 3.8.3.2).

3.8.3.4 Darts. The darts shall be stitched according to the pattern. The seam allowances of the dart shall be pressed open and topstitched 1/16 (+1/16, -0) inch on each side of seam.

3.8.3.5 Back hip pockets. The back hip pockets shall be in alignment, uniform in width and depth and finish 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings and each end of pocket openings shall be securely bartacked. The pocket openings shall finish 5-1/4 (±1/8) inches long.

3.9 Cleaning. All loose threads shall be removed. All spots, stains, and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.10 Pressing. Press legs with seams matching at bottoms and knees. Legs shall be pressed individually. Press top of trouser completely. Pressing shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or machine. All pressing impressions and glossy areas shall be removed. Inseams shall be pressed open. Pressing shall follow current CUF manufacturing practices.

3.11 Finished measurements. The finished trouser shall conform to the measurements shown in Table III. All measurements are indicated in inches; the trouser shall be measured lying flat and smooth, with hook and eye engaged.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

DRAFT WP-PD-21-12

TABLE III. Finished measurements (in inches).

Size

Men’s India White Trousers

1/2

Waist

1/

1/2

Hip

2/

Leg

Opening

3/

Inseam Length 4/

S

5/ 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

XL

5/

34 12.5 17.35 8.86 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

35 13 17.87 8.98 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

36 13.5 18.35 9.11 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 -- 37.7 5/ -- --

37 14 18.87 9.24 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 37.7 5/ -- --

38 14.5 19.37 9.36 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 -- 40.55

39 15 19.87 9.49 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

40 15.5 20.37 9.61 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

41 16 20.87 9.74 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

42 16.5 21.37 9.87 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

43 6/ 17 21.87 9.99 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

44 17.5 22.37 10.12 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

45 18 22.87 10.24 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

46 18.5 23.37 10.37 31.05 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

47 19 23.87 10.50 -- 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

48 19.5 24.37 10.62 -- 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

49 20 24.87 10.75 -- -- 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 40.55

50 20.5 25.37 10.87 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

51 21 25.87 11.00 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

52 21.5 26.37 11.13 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

53 22 26.87 11.25 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

54 22.5 27.37 11.38 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

55 23 27.87 11.50 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

TABLE III. Finished measurements (in inches). - Continued

Size

Men’s India White Trousers - Continued

1/2

Waist

1/

1/2

Hip

2/

1/2 Leg

Opening

3/

Inseam Length 4/

S

5/ 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

XL

5/

56 23.5 28.37 11.63 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

57 24 28.87 11.76 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

58 24.5 29.37 11.88 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

59 25 29.87 12.01 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

60 25.5 30.37 12.13 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 40.55

Tolerance ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125 ±.125

1/ 1/2 Waist: With slide fastener closed and the waistband hooked measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ 1/2 Hip: With slide fastener closed measure across trouser, 1-inch above fly bar tack, measure from folded edge to folded edge.

3/ 1/2 Leg opening: Measure from folded edge to folded edge at bottom of trousers.

4/ Inseam Length: Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge.

5/ Unhemmed

6/ Base Size

3.12 End item requirements. The finished trousers shall meet the requirements of Table IV when tested as specified in 4.5.3.

TABLE IV. End item requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Dimensional stability, percent (maximum) After two (2) cycles Laundering Warp

Filling

3.0

Dimensional stability, percent (maximum) After two (2) cycles Dry Cleaning Warp Filling

Soil release, rating (minimum) After one (1) laundering cycle

3.5

3.13 Toxicity. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, the finished cloths and components shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.3.

3.14 Workmanship. The finished trousers shall conform to the quality of products established by this document. The trousers shall be free from all defects as specified in Table V which would affect its serviceability, appearance, and uniformity.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

c. Component and end item inspection (see 4.4)

4.1.1 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this PD or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents.

4.2. First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be inspected for design, examined for appearance in 3.2, finished dimensions in Table III, color, finished defects in Table IV, and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table V.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of defects as specified in 4.5.1, finished measurements in 3.8, and the tests in 4.5.3. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and Acceptance Quality

Limits (AQL) as defined in the contract and/order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.5 End item examination.

4.5.1 End item visual examination. Each pair of trousers shall be visually examined for the defects listed in Table V. The lot shall be expressed in units of trousers. All fabric and garment defects shall be scored in accordance with Table V, which are clearly visible when examined at a distance of 3-feet and affect the serviceability and appearance of the finished trousers. Material defects are defined in MIL-STD-1488 and ASTM 3990. If needed, closer inspection shall be performed to verify compliance to specification requirements.

TABLE V. End item visual defects.

Examine Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part

Component color not as specified

Component parts

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part, misplaced, or omitted

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Stitches, Seams, and

Bar tacks

Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted or irregular, not as specified, needle chew Irregular stitching, or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams. Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured

Bar tacks missing or not as specified

Needle perforations clearly visible on outside

Any part of trousers caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

Buttons Not specified type, size, or color

Misplaced, omitted, broken or defective

Not attached as specified

Button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness

TABLE V. End item visual defects. - Continued

Examine Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Buttonholes

Any omitted, added, misplaced, ragged edges, caught in other stitching or component, not secured through proper layers of fabric, not serving intended purpose, broken stitches

Not specified size or type, finished cut length not as specified

Slide Fastener Slide fastener not as specified and not properly attached 111

Pockets Pocket twisted, curled or puckered, not constructed or stitched as specified or not well formed

Back darts Not as specified and shows puckering (dimples) at the end point of the dart

Waistband Waistband not constructed as specified, twisted, puckered or not well formed

Pressing Some or all pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed

Scorched area

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable

Five (5) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8-inch or less or not removed

Odor affecting serviceability, any lint, dust, or foreign matter not removed

Workmanship Distorted parts or poor workmanship 119

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified

Barcode/ UPC code not visible or folded

4.5.2 End item dimensional examination. The trousers shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table III and the requirements of Table IV when tested as specified in 4.5.3. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The inspection and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.5.3 End item testing. The trousers shall be tested according to the test methods specified in

Table VI.

TABLE VI. End item test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Presence of Optical Brightener 3.5.1 ASTM D6544

Soil release grade (min.)

After one (1) laundering cycle

3.5.1 and Table IV AATCC TM130 (washing temperature 120 ℉)

Dimensional stability, After two laundering (2) cycles

3.12 and Table IV AATCC TM150, (3)(IV)(Aiii)

Dimensional stability, one (1) Drycleaning cycle

3.12 and Table IV AATCC TM158

Toxicity 3.13 4.5.3.1

4.5.4 Methods of inspection.

4.5.4.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the trouser shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP 9, Option C (see 6.5) with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.5.4.2 Toxicity test. When the toxicity requirement (see 3.13) can be demonstrated with historical use data on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required.

(See 6.7 and 6.9).

5 PACKAGING.

5.1 CUF storage practices of finished garments shall be followed.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The India White trouser is intended for wear by male personnel of the

USMA as part of the Cadet Uniform.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Size and length required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Conformance inspection (see 3.1.2 and 4.3).

f. Toxicity testing when required (see 3.13 and 4.5.4.2)

g. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to standard samples and patterns contact the following:

ASCE-LWP-CU, Cadet Uniform Factory, 687 Hardee Place, West Point, NY 10996

6.5 Visual shade matching. In 2017, Option A of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual

Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles was changed to Option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 (± 5°) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90° angle, relative to the plane of the specimens”.

6.6 Known sources.

6.6.1 Waistband stabilizer. A waistband material stabilizer meeting the requirements of 3.5.4 of this PD is style PolySheen®, which can be found at:

QST

550 West Adams Street, Suite 200

Chicago, IL 60661

P: 312-930-9400/ F: 312-648-0312 qstinfo@qst.com

6.6.2 Waistband lining. A waistband lining material meeting the requirements of 3.5.4.1 is

Polysheen®, which is a registered trademark from QST Industries. (See 6.4.1).

6.6.3 Pocket supports. Pocket supports meeting the requirements (see 3.5.3) of this PD is available from QST , Style FEC20200208W0700. (See 6.6.1).

6.6.4 Fly and pocket lining. (See 3.5.2). CUF Work Order 41-A-19.

6.6.5 Slide fasteners/zippers. Slide Fasteners/zippers meeting the requirements of 3.6.1 may be obtained from Dunlap Industries, 9621 Dayton Pike, Soddy Daisy, TN 37379

6.6.6 Labels. The labels (see 3.6.5) are made at the CUF.

6.6.7 Thread. The thread (TH0043) meeting the requirement in 3.6.1.1 is available from

Coats (Astra Tex size 40) and is available from many commercial thread suppliers.

6.6.8 Button and toggle. The button and toggle in 3.6.2 are available from Waterbury

Button

6.7 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for some requirements.

6.8 Equal item. Prior to the use of an “or equal” item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting (comparison) data to the contracting officer for approval.

6.9 Toxicity testing. If dermal toxicity testing is required, it will be conducted using

Title 40, Protection of Environment, Code of Federal Regulations current edition and applicable sections, which are also consistent with the following OECD tests:

Skin Sensitization 406 and Dermal Irritation 404 (https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1)

Dermal Sensitization (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100)

Dermal Toxicity (https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250)

6.10 Assigned NSN’s by size.

SIZE Hem - Finished or unfinishhed NSN

35 XS Unfinished 840501Y502000

35 S Unfinished 840501Y502001

35 R Unfinished 840501Y502002

35 L Unfinished 840501Y502003

35 XL Unfinished 840501Y502004

36 XS Unfinished 840501Y502005

36 S Unfinished 840501Y502006

36 R Unfinished 840501Y502007

36 L Unfinished 840501Y502008

36 XL Unfinished 840501Y502009

37 XS Unfinished 840501Y502010

37 S Unfinished 840501Y502011

37 R Unfinished 840501Y502012

37 L Unfinished 840501Y502013

37 XL Unfinished 840501Y502014

38 XS Unfinished 840501Y502015

38 S Unfinished 840501Y502016

38 R Unfinished 840501Y502017

38 L Unfinished 840501Y502018

38 XL Unfinished 840501Y502019

39 XS Unfinished 840501Y502020

Commented [SDBJCUDS(1]: 8405 is Men's 8410 is Women's https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/oecd-guidelines-for-the-testing-of-chemicals-section-4-health-effects_20745788?page=1 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.4100 https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/798.2250

39 S Unfinished 840501Y502021

39 R Unfinished 840501Y502022

39 L Unfinished 840501Y502023

6.10 Subject term (key word) listing.

Polyester/Cotton

USMA

West Point

FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW

FIGURE 2. Trouser, India White, Men’s.

Custodians: Preparing Activity

Army - GL Army-GL

Reviewing Activity

ASCE-LWP-CU CADET UNIFORM FACTORY, (CUF)