B09_A1_Attach_15_Ahwahnee_HSR_Final_Submittal_-_Appendices_Vol_2_0001.pdf

prepared for

National Park Service/ Yosemite National Park & Delaware North Corporation prepared by

Historic Structures Report

January 2011

APPENDICES VOLUME II

ARCHITECTURAL RESOURCES GROUP, INC.

Architects, Planners & Conservators

ARCHITECTURAL RESOURCES GROUP

Histor ic Structures Report January 2011

Client

Architect Architectural Resources Group Pier 9, Th e Embarcadero San Francisco, California 94111

Stephen J. Farneth, FAIA, Project Principal David Wessel, AIC, FAPT, Principal Conservator Katherine Petrin, Architectural Historian, Project Manager Kitty Vieth, Historical Architect Mary Slater, Architectural Conservator Shayne E. Watson, Architectural Historian, Graphics Heidi Y. Granke, AIA, Historical Architect Katharine Untch, AIC, Conservator Kelly Wong, Conservator Mike Lovato, Project Designer, Graphics

Landscape Architect

AECOM

410 East Water Street, Suite 600 Charlottesville, Virginia 22902

Rob McGinnis, Historical Landscape Architect, Project Director Rachel Lloyd Evans, Historical Landscape Architect, Project Manager Adriane Fowler, Historical Landscape Architect Jessica Mauzy, Landscape Designer Laura Bandara, Landscape Designer Courtney Spearman, Landscape Designer Jennifer O’Brien, Graphics Lynn Frederico, GIS Specialist

Civil Engineer Provost & Pritchard 2505 Alluvial Avenue Clovis, California 93611

Dave Norman, Civil Engineer

Structural Engineer Degenkolb Engineers 235 Montgomery St, Suite 500 San Francisco, California 94104

Loring A Wyllie, Jr, Senior Principal, Structural Engineer

Mechanical Engineer Mechanical Design Concepts, Inc.

1060 W. Sierra, Suite 101 Fresno, California 93711

Stephen A. Becker, P.E.

Mechanical Engineer

Electrical Engineer O’Mahony & Myer, Inc.

4340 Redwood Highway, Suite 345 San Rafael, CA 94903

Pieter Colenbrander, Principal, Electrical Engineer

Principal Preparers

PROJECT TEAM

National Park Service, Yosemite National Park Delaware North Companies Parks & Resorts at Yosemite, Inc.

Histor ic Structures ReportJanuary 2011

Acknowledgments Paul Rogers and Brenna Lissaway, Yosemite Archives Barbara Beroza and Miriam Luchans, Yosemite Museum Collections Linda Eade, Yosemite Research Library Jan Herman, Bureau of Medicine and Surgery, Department of the Navy Kinzie Gordon, NPS Project Manager Don McLarty, NPS Project Manager Elaine Jackson-Retondo, National Historic Landmark Program Coordinator, Pacifi c West Region, National Park Service Dave Humphrey, Branch Chief, History, Architecture and Landscapes, Yosemite National Park Suann Brown, Historical Architect, Yosemite National Park Gabrielle Harlan, Historical Architect, Yosemite National Park Randy Fong, Branch Chief, Design, Yosemite National Park Niki Nicholas, Division Chief, Resources Management and Science, Yosemite National Park Laura Kirn, Branch Chief, Archaeology, Yosemite National Park Jeannette Simmons, EPCO, Yosemite National Park Jim Vandenberg, CIF Project Manager, Yosemite National Park Devon Rothell, DNC Compliance Manager Brian Fulce, DNC CIF Project Manager

The staff of The Ahwahnee for assistance provided throughout the course of this project.

APPENDICES VOLUME II

Appendix G: National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form:

The Ahwahnee Hotel (1977)

Appendix H: National Register of Historic Places, National Historic Landmark Nomination Form: The Ahwahnee (1987)

Appendix I: National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form: Yosemite Valley (2006)

Appendix J: Historical Photographs in Chronological Order

A PPE N DI X G : National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form:

The Ahwahnee Hotel (1977)

Appendix G: NRHP Nomination: The Ahwahnee Hotel, 1977

A ppendix G

: N

RH

P N om ination, 1977

A PPE N DI X H : National Register of Historic Places, National Historic Landmark Nomination Form: The Ahwahnee (1987)

Appendix H: NHL Nomination: Th e Ahwahnee Hotel, 1987

A ppendix H

: N H

L N ination, 1987

A PPE N DI X I : National Register of Historic Places Nomination Form: Yosemite Valley (2006)

Appendix I: NRHP Nomination: Yosemite Valley, 2006

A ppendix I: N

RH

P N ination, 2006

NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES NOMINATION FORM

NPS Form 10-900 USDI/NPS NRHP Registration Form (Rev. 8-86) OMB No. 1024-0018 United States Department of the Interior, NPS National Register of Historic Places Registration Form

1. NAME OF PROPERTY

Historic Name: Yosemite Valley

Other Name/Site Number:

2. LOCATION

Street & Number: PO Box 577 Not for publication:

City/Town: Yosemite National Park Vicinity:

State: CA County: Mariposa Code: 109 Zip Code: 95389

3. CLASSIFICATION

Ownership of Property Category of Property Private: Building(s):

Public-Local: District: X Public-State: Site:

Public-Federal: X Structure:

Object:

Number of Resources within Property

Contributing Noncontributing

302 153 buildings 16 1 sites 611 164 structures 0 0 objects 929 318 Total

Number of Contributing Resources Previously Listed in the National Register: 749 (Yosemite Chapel, 1973; The Ahwahnee Hotel, 1977; 8 Valley Bridges, 1977; 74 buildings and structures in Yosemite Village Historic District, 1978; 664 buildings and structures in the Camp Curry Historic District, 1979; LeConte Memorial Lodge, 1987; 1 site at Camp 4, 2003)

Name of Related Multiple Property Listing: NA

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4. STATE/FEDERAL AGENCY CERTIFICATION

As the designated authority under the National Historic Preservation Act of 1966, as amended, I hereby certify that this ____ nomination ____ request for determination of eligibility meets the documentation standards for registering properties in the National Register of Historic Places and meets the procedural and professional requirements set forth in 36 CFR Part 60. In my opinion, the property ____ meets ____ does not meet the National Register Criteria.

Signature of Certifying Official Date

State or Federal Agency and Bureau

In my opinion, the property ____ meets ____ does not meet the National Register criteria.

Signature of Commenting or Other Official Date

State or Federal Agency and Bureau

5. NPS CERTIFICATION

I hereby certify that this property is:

___ Entered in the National Register ___ Determined eligible for the National Register ___ Determined not eligible for the National Register ___ Removed from the National Register ___ Other (explain):

Signature of Keeper Date of Action

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6. FUNCTION OR USE

Historic: Landscape Sub: Park Recreation & Culture Sub: Outdoor Recreation Domestic Sub: Single Dwelling Domestic Sub: Multiple Dwelling Domestic Sub: Institutional Housing Domestic Sub: Hotel Transportation Sub: Road-related

Current: Landscape Sub: Park Recreation & Culture Sub: Outdoor Recreation Domestic Sub: Single Dwelling Domestic Sub: Multiple Dwelling Domestic Sub: Institutional Housing Domestic Sub: Hotel Transportation Sub: Road-related

7. DESCRIPTION

ARCHITECTURAL CLASSIFICATION: "Bungalow/Craftsman", Other: "NPS Rustic"

MATERIALS:

Foundation: Stone/Concrete Walls: Stone/Log/Shingle Roof: Shingle Site Furnishings: Stone/Wood/Metal/Concrete Pavements and Curbs: Packed Earth/Gravel/Asphalt/Stone/Concrete Retaining Walls and Other Landscape Structures: Concrete/Stone/Packed Earth

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Describe Present and Historic Physical Appearance.

NOTE: Information for Section 7 of this nomination (Description of Resources) is primarily taken from: Yosemite Valley: Cultural Landscape Report, 2 vols., Land and Community Associates, Denver, Colorado: Department of the Interior, National Park Service, 1994 (hereafter abbreviated as CLR); other sources are as referenced in the bibliography.

SUMMARY

Yosemite Valley, the uniquely awesome and beautiful granite gorge in the Sierra Nevada Range of California, is one of the most famous and iconic scenic places in the American West. For thousands of years the grandeur of Yosemite has been appreciated by native people, and for over the last 150 years “the Incomparable Valley” has taken on enormous cultural significance for Euro-Americans and for visitors from all over the world.

From about 4,000 feet in elevation on the valley floor, the surrounding granite cliff walls rise to elevations of over 8,800 feet at Half Dome, 7,500 feet at El Capitan, and 7,200 feet at Glacier Point. Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls together drop more than 2,500 feet to the valley floor.

The unparalleled beauty of these and many other features is set, remarkably, on a stage of serene and pastoral beauty. The valley floor itself is a relatively flat floodplain, through which the Merced River winds, flanked by open meadows and forests of oak and pine. The stunning juxtaposition of calm, park-like meadows and massive, grand cliffs makes Yosemite Valley one of the most visited, most described, and most depicted places in the world.

While the cliff walls and granite peaks that define Yosemite Valley remain immutable and eternal, people have managed, used, and manipulated the valley floor for thousands of years.

American Indians periodically burned the valley floor to encourage open oak woodlands, interspersed with meadows that were productive for both forage crops (mainly acorns) and game. Shrubs and trees were also pruned to enhance production of various forest products. If left untouched, much of the valley might have been mature coniferous forest (rather than meadows and oak woodland) when Euro-American tourists began to arrive in the 1850s.

Although images of Yosemite Valley soon were the heart of an American ideal of “nature,” the landscape actually was the product of ancient agricultural practices: an aboriginal countryside as managed, in its way, as the fields and farms of New England.

By 1864, when the federal government granted Yosemite Valley to the state of California, Euro- Americans had taken over the management of the valley floor landscape for their own purposes.

Intent on preserving the “natural” scene, state managers also wanted to allow the construction of hotels and other facilities to serve tourists. The role of fire and other practices in forming the valley landscape was poorly understood, however, and the preservation of what was assumed to be a wilderness soon resulted in unintended consequences. Tribal groups were prevented from burning off woody vegetation and some meadows were tilled and planted to provide food for tourists and fodder for livestock. Manipulation of drainage patterns to enhance production of crops led to drier meadows, which further encouraged the invasion of ponderosa pines and other woody growth into open areas. By the 1880s, management of vegetation in Yosemite Valley for the purpose of keeping views and meadows open was already a controversial issue. Cutting, grubbing, and burning were all employed (with various levels of intensity) over the next 90 years in an attempt to maintain the “natural” open character of the Yosemite Valley landscape.

Since the 1970s, many of these practices have been reduced or suspended, as park managers have worked to balance natural and cultural resource values with public perception and use. The

Yosemite Valley Page 5 amount of open space on the valley floor has remained relatively constant since 1942 (about half what it was in the 1850s), but ponderosa pines and other trees have begun to reach mature heights and densities, limiting historically open views to the falls and valley walls and visually isolating individual meadows from one another.

Development to accommodate tourists also began in the 1850s, but accelerated in the 1870s when the first wagon roads reached the valley. By the early 20th century, entrepreneurs had built a small resort town. After the National Park Service was created in 1916, extensive plans for visitor facilities were implemented, with a new emphasis on the quality of architectural design and an effort to minimize impacts to both scenic quality and the environment. Today, the array of hotels, tent cabins, administrative facilities, roads and trails in the valley dates mainly from the early 20th century (Camp Curry), the 1920s (Yosemite Village and the Ahwahnee Hotel), and more recent additions and changes (Yosemite Lodge, parts of Yosemite Village, other locations). The overall footprint of development in Yosemite Valley that remains today, however, was in place by 1942, which is the end of the period of significance for this nomination.

The complex and significant history of human interaction with natural processes in Yosemite Valley has resulted in a unique and historically important cultural landscape on the valley floor.

The contributing resources of the Yosemite Valley National Register district include roads, trails, buildings, and structures. Other elements that contribute to the significance of the cultural landscape are described in terms of landscape characteristics as defined by the National Register of Historic Places, including natural systems and features, spatial organization, vegetation, circulation, land use, and views and vistas (see definitions below).

The Yosemite Valley Historic District is a single, contiguous district that extends roughly from Pohono Bridge to Mirror Lake and Vernal Fall, and from the base of the valley walls to the north and south. Almost the entire boundary is defined by the official Wilderness boundary, which follows the 4,200-foot contour around the valley floor (the historic district being the portion of the valley that is not designated as Wilderness; (see Map F). This comprehensive district is appropriate because it includes natural features and landscape characteristics, as well as historic buildings and structures, which collectively make up the historically significant cultural landscape of Yosemite Valley.

Within the single district, three specific areas are described separately and in more detail in Part 2 of this nomination: Yosemite Village, the Ahwahnee Hotel, and Camp Curry. Each of these areas is independently significant for its part in the history of Yosemite. All three areas were first listed in the National Register as districts in the 1970s; the Ahwahnee Hotel was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1987. Two other buildings within the historic district described here were also designated as National Historic Landmarks: the Rangers’ Club in Yosemite Village (1987) and the LeConte Memorial Lodge (1987).

Three other developed areas in the Historic District are not contributing, and therefore are not described in the same detail as the contributing developed areas, but they are included in the description of the overall valley landscape. The Yosemite Lodge area, Housekeeping Camp, and the campground areas all occupy sites of similar uses during the historic period, but all have been redeveloped in the postwar era, and almost all of their buildings and structures post-date the period of significance.

The Yosemite Lodge area is a 1950s motel complex, located along the base of the north valley wall, southwest of Yosemite Village, north of the Merced River, and immediately west of

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Yosemite Creek. The original Yosemite Lodge building was constructed in 1915, in response to the advice of Stephen Mather and Franklin Lane. Both believed there would be an influx of visitors to the park after completion of the Panama Canal. Increased visitation to Yosemite did occur after World War II, making it necessary to completely rebuild the facility. Beginning in 1956, the motel and associated development was replaced with several new buildings. Today, Yosemite Lodge includes the main lodge (registration building), mid-scale motel units, two restaurants, a cafeteria, bar, gift and general merchandise store, specialty gift shop, bike rental shop, post office, swimming pool, and temporary (trailer) employee housing. All guest lodging consists of multi-unit style building construction. The last of the historic guest cabins along Yosemite Creek and the Merced River were removed after the 1997 flood, leaving the swimming pool as the only pre-1942 structure in the entire complex. Because the extensive redevelopment of the lodge area post-dates the period of significance for this nomination, the Yosemite Lodge area as a whole does is not eligible for listing, and is not documented in Part 2 of this nomination.

The Housekeeping Camp area, located on the south side of the Merced River, near the LeConte Memorial Lodge, also was developed after 1942. It consists of closely sited, rustic cinderblock and canvas tent cabins (similar to those at Camp Curry). Circulation is informal with few paved surfaces. Service buildings include a camp store and laundry and shower facilities, all built after 1942. Because this development post-dates the period of significance for this nomination, this area is not eligible for listing, and is not documented in Part 2 of this nomination.

The campground area, located along the Merced River toward the eastern end of the valley, includes the sites of several historic campgrounds. Camping along the Merced River has a long and continuous history of use in Yosemite Valley. Initially, camping occurred in undefined areas along the Merced River, resulting in significant damage to the riverbanks and adjacent vegetation. Beginning in the 1920s, selected campgrounds were defined and “formalized,” meaning they had designated campsites and roads providing access. In the 1930s, virtually all of the campgrounds in Yosemite Valley were designed to accommodate large numbers of visitors with parking, construction of comfort stations, designated campsites, fire pits, and tables. Like many other National Park units, campgrounds of this era were based on the Meinecke Camping System, designed to minimize human impacts on the natural landscape, and “blend” with the surrounding landscape by incorporating native materials in the development of features and infrastructure.1 In Yosemite Valley, the natural flood cycles of the Merced River caused repeated and extensive damage to these campgrounds, leading to ongoing rebuilding efforts over many years. In addition to flood damage over the years, campgrounds in Yosemite Valley have been extensively redesigned to meet the growing demand, and reconfigured to better accommodate larger numbers of campers and larger vehicles. This has resulted in the construction of new roads, new comfort stations, entrance kiosks, utilities, and other structures. Because of this redevelopment, the campgrounds today comprise structures that post-date the period of significance in this nomination, and individual campgrounds are not eligible for listing as designed landscapes.2 However, because the campgrounds in Yosemite Valley are spatially discrete, limited, and well-defined within the overall valley landscape, and because their footprint and function is similar (or identical) to what they were during the historic period, these non-contributing areas have a limited adverse effect on the integrity of the historic district as a whole.

1 See Linda McClelland pgs. 276-284.

2 The campgrounds were also evaluated in the CLR and they were determined ineligible because of the lack of integrity.

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Despite changes in the character of the valley landscape since the 1850s, and additional minor changes since the end of the period of significance in 1942, the overall integrity of the Yosemite Valley historic district is exceptional. The general footprint of development remains essentially the same today as it was in 1942. Yosemite Valley continues to be an intact and always controversial experiment—one that began within only a few years of the arrival of Euro- Americans in the valley—of preserving a “natural” landscape through its development and management as a public park. The complex cultural landscape of the valley floor is the direct result of the vicissitudes of this unique and profoundly significant experiment.

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Section 7: DESCRIPTION OF CONTRIBUTING RESOURCES IN THE HISTORIC DISTRICT

Introduction

This section describing the cultural landscape of Yosemite Valley is divided into two parts: PART ONE describes the overall valley landscape (the historic district as a whole), and PART TWO gives more detail about the three developed areas within the valley (Yosemite Village, the Ahwahnee Hotel, and Camp Curry) that contain a concentration of contributing resources..

Because the Yosemite Lodge, Housekeeping Camp, and Campground areas along the Merced River consist almost entirely of non-contributing resources, they are not discussed in detail.

Contributing and non-contributing resources that fall outside of the three primary developed areas of the valley are included in the description of the overall valley landscape.

In the general description of the historic district (Part 1) and the detailed descriptions of the three developed areas (Part 2), the following categories of contributing resources are covered:

Natural Systems and Features — the geological, hydrological, and topographical features and characteristics that either contribute directly to the historic district or help shape and define other contributing resources.

Spatial Organization − the design, composition and sequence of outdoor spaces within the district.

Vegetation — the existing vegetation, and the management of introduced or manipulated vegetation through pruning, removal, or addition of trees and shrubs for design purposes.

Circulation — the means and patterns of both vehicular and pedestrian movement through the district.

Land Use — the historical and current patterns of use and associated activities within different areas.

Views and Vistas — general views of significant features as well as specific vistas from structured overlooks and observation platforms.

Buildings — structures that have constructed walls and a roof, and have interior spaces used by people for various purposes.

Structures — all other human-made elements in the landscape.

Sites — locations where historically significant events took place, archeological resources, or structural ruins remain.

Landscape characteristics are not counted as contributing resources in this nomination unless they are classified as structures or sites. However, notable and significant landscape characteristics are documented as contributing to the character of the historic district and developed areas, and within the framework of National Register.

NOTE: Archeological resources as well as resources relating to traditional cultural practices are referenced but not detailed in this nomination. Archeological resources are described in the existing archeological district nomination for Yosemite Valley. A separate nomination addressing the traditional cultural properties of Yosemite Valley will be prepared in the future.

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Section 7: PART ONE

DESCRIPTION OF OVERALL VALLEY LANDSCAPE

Natural Systems and Features

Yosemite National Park lies on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada range in central California, between the San Joaquin Valley to the west and the Great Basin to the east. Yosemite Valley is situated on the west slope of the mountains, in the south central portion of the park. The valley is about nine miles long and one-half to one mile in width, and is oriented in an east-west direction. Elevations along the valley floor range between 3,800 and 4,200 feet.

According to geologists, the present form of Yosemite Valley is the result of three major glacial periods, the last of which ended between 10,000 and 12,000 years ago. As the last glacier retreated, a lake was created in the valley. The Merced River carried sediments into this lake, and over thousands of years the lake silted in and receded. Today the exceptionally sheer and nearly vertical walls of Yosemite Valley rise 1,500 to 4,000 feet from the almost level valley floor.

Yosemite Valley is in the mixed conifer zone of the Sierra Nevada, characterized by 41 identified biotic communities, grouped loosely into uplands, riparian, meadow, and aquatic communities.

Lightning is the natural fire regime in Yosemite Valley. A more predominant mixed conifer forest would have probably evolved under this regime, with some differentiation between the wetter south, low-lying center, and drier north sides of the valley.

Yosemite Valley serves as a broad floodplain for the Merced River. In spring, melting snow from higher elevations causes flooding, and winter floods recur every 5 to 30 years. Flooding and the slow movement of the Merced River channel across the valley floor have resulted in a variety of associated landforms, such as low-lying wetlands and wet meadows. In 1879, a portion of the moraine that traversed the Merced River near the base of El Capitan was blasted away, and the water table in the valley dropped several feet. Research suggests that as the water level dropped, the Merced River cut a deeper channel through the valley. This also may have caused some meadows and wetland areas adjacent to the river to become drier.

Periodic rockfall in Yosemite Valley affects the topography of the valley floor. Rockfall has created steep talus slopes along each side of the valley that provide better drained soils and warmer microhabitats than are found on the adjacent valley floor. Because of its east-west orientation, the south side of the valley tends to be shadier, cooler, and wetter than the sunny, warm, north side of the valley, especially in winter. These temperature and light differences influence plant communities as well as human activity.

American Indians historically used the many plant communities in Yosemite Valley for food, subsistence, shelter, and the production of other functional and decorative materials. Beginning in the mid-1800s, and continuing intermittently through the historic period, others also used natural resources on the valley floor, such as wood and stone for constructing various structures. This reached a peak during the NPS era, when landscape architects advocated using materials that would harmonize with the surrounding character of the landscape for all constructed features. Most of the buildings and bridges and structures from this period reflect this practice.

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The most salient natural features in the valley are the natural landforms and water features that define the valley itself. These natural features have taken on cultural value both in terms of use and association from prehistoric times to the present. Views of natural features have been primary influences in patterns of human use and development, especially since the 1850s.

Summary

Within the boundaries of the Yosemite Valley historic district, the Merced River and associated riverine corridor are the primary natural systems that have historically shaped the built environment of Yosemite Valley. Although the river corridor itself has fluctuated as a result of both natural and human influences throughout the period of significance, it continues to physically define the character of the valley landscape, and contributes to defining he significance and character of the cultural landscape.

In addition to the Merced River corridor, the towering cliffs that define the valley landscapes are important components of valley scenery. Although the cliffs and falls are not within the boundaries of the Yosemite Valley historic district, viewing these features from the valley floor has been an important attraction and has directly influenced the pattern of development and human activity in Yosemite Valley for over 150 years. The natural features listed below are particularly important to the overall significance and integrity of the historic district, although they are not included in the topographically designated boundaries of the valley floor.

• Upper Yosemite Fall

• Lower Yosemite Fall

• Bridalveil Fall

• Nevada Fall

• Vernal Fall

• El Capitan

• Cathedral Range

• Three Brothers

• Sentinel Rock

• Yosemite Point

• Lost Arrow

• Royal Arches

• Glacier Point

• Washington Column

• Half Dome

• North Dome

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Spatial Organization

The unique geophysical characteristics of Yosemite Valley have historically shaped patterns of human use, modification of the landscape, and perception of the resources that define the cultural landscape. The extent and location of human activity have been constricted within the valley walls, and further limited by the meandering course of the Merced River. The river flows generally east to west, defining the center of the valley and creating an ecological zone that unifies and influences the patchwork of meadows and wooded areas. Above the palustrine zone, the valley floor typically steps up in elevation and forms a broad shelf to the toe of the talus slopes at the bases of the cliff walls.

Perhaps the most dramatic spatial characteristic of the cultural landscape as a whole is the relative narrowness of Yosemite Valley in relation to the height of the valley walls enclosing it.

The approximately 1:3 to 2:3 horizontal-vertical ratio creates a highly unusual landscape, one that has historically influenced the type and degree of development within the valley. Another key spatial characteristic within the valley is the mosaic pattern of open meadows alternating with stands of oaks and conifers. This pattern of open and canopied spaces through the valley creates a series of long views, and frames specific views to features such as Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, and the Merced River.

Main access to the valley has been from the west, with a primary circulation pattern generally following higher, more stable ground around the base of the cliff walls. This alignment physically defined the perimeter of the valley landscape and choreographed the experience of visitors.

Developed areas in the valley were also concentrated on slightly higher ground, especially in the eastern portions of the valley. Prehistoric settlement was concentrated on the north, sunny side of the valley.

Individual aspects of the spatial organization of Yosemite Valley have shifted in scale and composition as a result of various land uses and modifications. In this regard, the most significant change has been the shift in the amount of open meadowlands relative to the forest areas. In the mid-19th century, there were approximately 745 acres of meadow covering the valley floor. At the end of the historic period (1942), this amount had dropped to approximately 350 acres due to drier soils, different vegetation management practices, and the suppression of fires, all of which encouraged the growth of trees and shrubs.3 Although the number of acres of meadow in the valley has remained relatively constant since the end of the historic period, the growth of trees throughout the valley has obscured some significant historic views, changing much of the historic character of the spatial composition of the valley landscape.

The vehicular circulation system in the valley, in place for over 100 years, has been repaved numerous times, and in some places has been widened and realigned. Most of these changes have not affected the spatial organization of the landscape. The exceptions are the changes made in the early 1970s, when the loop drive changed to a one-way system. In addition, during this period portions of the road were closed to vehicular traffic, including the road to Mirror Lake and areas around Yosemite Village. In spite of these changes, the circulation system as a whole continues to define the perimeter of the valley landscape, and provides the overall spatial sequences—typically composed of meadows, forests, open woodlands, and the river corridor—

3 Gibbens, Robert and Harold Heady. The Influence of Modern Man on the Vegetation of Yosemite Valley. California Agricultural Experiment Station Extension Service, Manual #36, 1964.

Yosemite Valley Page 12 experienced during the historic period. Three major river crossings divide the loop road into thirds.

Summary

The overall spatial organization of the valley landscape retains the physical character and integrity to the period of significance. This is especially evident in the larger spatial sequence experienced by visitors as they arrive and move through the valley. Although aspects of this spatial sequence have been altered since 1942, the landscape organization defined by the framework of the loop drive and associated trail system remains the primary means for most park visitors to experience Yosemite Valley. In addition, the overall pattern of concentrated developed areas in the valley—Yosemite Village, Yosemite Lodge, Camp Curry, and the Ahwahnee Hotel—have remained in place since the end of the historic period (1942). While changes within specific developed areas have taken place (such as the redevelopment of Yosemite Lodge and Yosemite Village areas) these changes have occurred within the historic footprint of development.

Three primary aspects of the valley’s spatial organization contribute to the historic character of the Yosemite Valley historic district:

• The patchwork pattern of open meadow and woodlands along the Merced River corridor defines the overall park-like character of the landscape and provides a sequence of spaces and views to primary natural features.

• The general density of development in the eastern portion of the valley, and the overall footprint of historic development in concentrated nodes throughout the valley.

• The influence of natural systems on the type and degree of physical development and land use on the valley floor (the cliff walls and river corridor in particular).

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Vegetation

Natural vegetation in Yosemite Valley can be grouped into four major communities: Upland, California black oak woodland, meadow, and riparian. Upland communities are comprised of mixed conifer communities, which cover approximately 15 percent of the valley, mostly inhabiting the talus slopes and steeper fringes of the valley. Black oak woodlands cover 5 percent of the valley, surrounding meadows and transitioning between meadows and riparian vegetation, and between upland conifer and live oak communities. Riparian and meadow communities cover approximately 10 percent each of the valley floor.

Archeological evidence in the valley suggests that sometime around 500 AD, the Southern Sierra Miwok people were using Yosemite Valley for food production. Prior to 1851, the Ahwahneechees periodically set fires to facilitate hunting and maintain the open character of the valley floor.

Fires helped keep the meadows free of trees and shrubs and swept underbrush from wooded areas. The fires also created an environment favorable to California black oak and the production of acorns that were a major food source for the Ahwahneechees.

Use and settlement of the valley in the 19th century by Euro-Americans had a dramatic influence on vegetation. Beginning as early as 1856, several meadows were being used for agriculture and to graze livestock. Hay and other grains were planted in several meadows to provide feed for livestock at the Lower Hotel. Around this time, James Lamon planted a four-acre orchard, with 500 trees and a large vegetable garden, in the northeast portion of the valley.

In 1866, there were approximately 745 acres of meadow in the valley, composed mainly of sedges, willows, and herbaceous plants adapted to live in a high water table. Riparian vegetation included willows, black cottonwood, big leaf maple, and white alder. Mixed conifer communities bordered the valley in higher and drier zones. California black oak communities were abundant, typically located on the edge of meadows. Live oak communities were found in drier parts of the talus slopes.

Between 1860 and 1890, agricultural use of the meadows increased and had a significant impact on plant communities in the valley. In the 1870s, Lamon’s orchards were producing apples, pears, peaches, plums, nectarines, plums and almonds. The garden had raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries, much of which was sold to tourists and hotelkeepers in the valley.

In 1879, a portion of the moraine at the base of El Capitan was blasted away and the water table in the valley dropped several feet. In addition, local ditching and stream diversion related to road and infrastructure development also altered natural hydrology. These changes had a profound effect on the valley’s stream system, vegetation, and the surrounding watershed.

Leidig’s Meadow, historically a marshy area, became dry enough for cultivation and was planted in 1881. Stoneman Meadow was plowed for hay in 1887. In addition to the change in the water table, the intense use of the meadows by livestock and visitors caused change in meadow vegetation. Soils were compacted, and the absence of fire led to the loss of sedges and other meadow species, as well as establishment of more grazing-tolerant grasses and non-native species.

In 1880, the commissioners reported that the growth of a dense understory had blocked significant views and was crowding out meadow vegetation. Within a few years, Frederick Law Olmsted, among others, became involved in the controversy of how and whether to manage

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Yosemite Valley vegetation to address these changes. Olmsted’s opinion, which was an extension of the opinions he expressed in the 1865 Yosemite report, was that it was not unethical or contrary to the purposes of the park to manage vegetation according to artistic principals; but misguided management would be worse than no management.

By 1888, the commissioners issued a policy for management of vegetation in the valley with the goal of restoring the landscape to its 1851 appearance. The cultivation of crops was to be restricted to areas that had already been plowed and the remaining “natural” meadows were to be “preserved,” an action that would require the removal of encroaching trees. Cutting other trees in the valley was permitted only under the supervision of a “landscape gardener,” or other expert to ensure that the “natural” qualities of the valley were preserved. Although the principle of minimizing vegetation maintenance was clearly stated in the commissioner’s report, it was also evident that a relatively high level of landscape maintenance would be required to maintain the open character of the meadows, oak woodlands, and long sweeping views across the valley floor.

By the 1920s, activities related to the management of vegetation included repeated burning of Cook’s and Bridalveil Meadows to reduce encroaching vegetation, and clearing trees at Camp Curry that obstructed views. By 1927, meadowland in the valley had decreased to 430 acres. In the early 1930s, the NPS began a program of naturalization in the valley that was to continue, in various ways, over the next 50 years. Early efforts focused on the meadows, and in 1930 grazing and burning of the meadows were banned. Valley residents were ordered to stop cultivating exotic plants in their gardens. Trees in El Capitan Meadow were thinned, and other meadows were seeded with native grasses and wildflowers. During this period, Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) crews were responsible for a large amount this work. They transplanted, pruned, and removed vegetation to open vistas, screen buildings, and improve the appearance of developed areas. Landscape naturalization involved transplanting materials from numerous places outside the valley, and re-establishing them in developed areas. Plant materials brought in included azaleas, ferns, spice bushes, woodwardias, manzanitas, lungworts, chinquapins, lilies, cedar, aspen, lupines, maples, and mountain mahogany. The CCC also maintained trees throughout the valley along road corridors, cutting dead limbs from oak trees and routinely grubbing up seedling trees in meadows.

After World War II, the NPS continued its program of meadow management. In 1964, there were 349 acres of meadowland in the valley, and very few signs of agricultural land uses. At this time, approximately 18 percent of the known species on the valley floor were non-indigenous.

Although the composition and extent of specific plant communities in the valley have changed over the past 150 years, the general pattern and characteristics of vegetation in the valley—the pattern of meadow and woodlands—have retained integrity since the end of the historic period.

Documentation indicates that although there has been a shift in the species composition of meadow communities since 1942, the overall number of acres classified as meadow in the valley has remained reasonably consistent. In 1866, there were approximately 745 acres of meadow.

In 1942 there were approximately 385 acres and today there are approximately 360 acres.

California black oak communities that have existed in the valley for over 3,000 years have also been reduced in size. Most of the reduction in California black oak woodland is attributed to the suppression of fire, changes in hydrology, and the subsequent increase in coniferous growth.

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Another change in the cultural landscape related to vegetation is reflected in the number of new trees that have grown along roads and in developed areas since the historic period. These trees often obstruct views of significant features and resources.

Summary

In spite of the changes, vegetation in the valley, including the meadows, the riparian corridor, forest areas, and black oak stands, contribute to the historic character of the cultural landscape and retain overall integrity in terms of pattern and relationship throughout the valley floor.

Valley meadows and historic orchards that contribute to the significance of the Yosemite Valley historic district are described and counted in the Sites section that follows.

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Circulation

Circulation within Yosemite Valley consists of a variety of vehicular, pedestrian, and equestrian routes. Northside and Southside drives create a framework for circulation around the valley, on either side of the Merced River. This experience is choreographed by a series of pull-offs oriented to specific vistas, with associated interpretative waysides and trails. Secondary roads provide access to individual major and minor developed areas. In addition to the vehicular routes, a network of hiking, biking, and bridle trails and pedestrian ways connect visitor attractions with lodging, employee housing, administrative offices, and visitor services.

During the period of early development in the valley, informal wagon roads routed tourists and sightseers to the hotels and scenic vistas along the edge of the valley. The first designated roads to reach the valley floor were the Coulterville Road and the Big Oak Flat Road. Both roads were completed in 1874 and entered the valley from the northwest. As the number of people visiting the valley increased, additional roads and bridges were developed, generally following the south side of the Merced River. The first river crossing was built in 1859 at the site of the historic Sentinel Bridge.

In 1865 Frederick Law Olmsted proposed a one-way park road system that would extend up the valley on one side of the Merced River and down the valley on the other side, sited to take advantage of scenic views. Although his plan was never implemented, by the 1880s a system of wagon roads had been built that routed traffic around the edges of the valley on both sides of the river, approximating the original concept for a loop drive.

As formal roads were developed in the valley, they were sited to expedite access to primary facilities and to take advantage of views. The location of roads nearer to valley walls allowed better views of the features on the opposite side of the valley. Because of the narrowness of the valley, the views of major features typically were improved by this distance, which created a foreground of open meadow, a stretch of river, or woodlands. By 1892, there were more than 20 miles of roads in the valley, 6 bridges, and 24 miles of bridle trails.

In 1900 the first automobile entered the valley, and three new river crossings (transverse roads) were added, generally dividing the valley into thirds and creating the opportunity for more diverse touring experiences as well as better access to visitor services. Additional crossings were added in the 1920s and 1930s. The experience of driving the loop included a series of pull-offs providing the opportunity to stop along the way and view a specific vista within the valley. These pull-offs allowed individual riders and carriages to set the timing and sequence of their experience of the Yosemite landscape. After World War I, as private automobiles became the dominant means of visiting Yosemite, the experience of driving the Northside and Southside Drives in a loop in a private automobile became a significant aspect of the overall experience of the Yosemite landscape.

The primary trails originating in the valley are the Mist Trail, Four Mile Trail, Yosemite Falls Trail, Pohono Trail, and the Valley Loop Trail. The Mist Trail was constructed in 1858, and was the first trail in the valley constructed specifically as a scenic route for visitors. Leading from the Happy Isles area to Vernal and Nevada Falls, it is one of the oldest trails in the valley. Completed in 1872, the Four Mile Trail leads from the base of Sentinel Rock to the summit of Glacier Point.

Originally constructed with a rise of over 4,000 feet in four miles, it was historically a difficult and somewhat dangerous trail. In 1928, switchbacks were added to create a slightly less difficult climb, and today the trail is closer to five miles long. The Yosemite Falls Trail was built between

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1873 and 1878, and is approximately three and one-half miles long. It leads from an area west of Yosemite Village (near the base of Eagle Peak) and follows Yosemite Creek on its west side to the top of Upper Yosemite Fall. The Valley Loop Trail dates from the 1920s and was originally built as a bridle trail, generally aligned along existing circulation routes. Thirteen additional miles were added to the Valley Loop Trail in 1928, requiring the construction of 14 bridges. Today, the Valley Loop Trail includes the entire remaining bridle trail system in the valley and it is approximately 21 miles long.

Summary

Since 1942, a variety of minor alterations have been made to the system of roads, trails, and pedestrian ways in Yosemite Valley. Beginning at the turn of the century, both Northside and Southside Drives have been repaved, realigned, and widened in places. Since their construction in 1882, the Northside and Southside Drives have been used as a one-way loop several different times; in 1972, this arrangement became a permanent condition. Portions of the loop road were closed to traffic at the same time, including Happy Isles Loop Road (east of Camp Curry) and the road to Mirror Lake.

Most of the bridges located in the valley date from the 1920s and 1930s. The Sentinel Bridge was replaced in 1994 and constructed 50 feet upstream from the location of the historic bridge.

A variety of bridges built during the historic period are now closed to vehicular traffic and are used as trail bridges. Minor alterations have been made to all the historic trails. In 1966, a bike trail was constructed between Camp Curry and Sentinel Bridge. In the 1970s, a comprehensive bike trail plan was developed and its construction began in the 1980s. The trail is a 12-mile asphalt paved loop that originates at Yosemite Lodge and provides access to the major developed areas, trails, and sites in the east valley.

Today, the circulation system of vehicular, pedestrian, and equestrian routes in the Yosemite Valley retains a high degree of integrity to the historic period. The overall Northside-Southside loop drive system, with spur roads connecting to Yosemite Village, Camp Curry, the Ahwahnee Hotel, and Yosemite Lodge, is still the primary circulation system in the valley, and only a few sections of road have lost integrity. The river crossings, hiking, bridle, and pedestrian trail systems developed during the historic period also retain integrity, and a majority of their associated features are still intact and contribute to the significance of the cultural landscape.

Contributing resources in the historic district associated with circulation are listed in the “Structures” section that follows.

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Land Use

Five major developed areas in the northern and eastern portions of Yosemite Valley support a variety of land use activities intended to meet the needs of park visitors and NPS administration:

the Ahwahnee Hotel, Camp Curry, Yosemite Lodge, Housekeeping Camp, and Yosemite Village.

Each of these provides guest accommodations, employee housing, visitor services, and recreation facilities. In addition, several parking areas, overnight camping areas, picnic areas, interpretative waysides, trails, stables, and other visitor resources exist outside of the five major areas.

Early use of Yosemite Valley by American Indians may have occurred as early as 5,000 to 7,000 years ago, with permanent settlement beginning about 3,500 years ago. American Indians managed and used the valley landscape for a variety of purposes, such as hunting, gathering, and collecting for the production of food and material culture.

Among the first Euro-American land uses in the valley was establishment of three camps by the Mariposa Battalion. One camp was located at the base of Bridalveil Fall, one at the mouth of Indian Canyon, and one near the later site of the Sentinel Hotel. Four years later James M.

Hutchings organized the first expedition into the valley for tourists. In order to support the growing number of tourists visiting the valley, several of the meadows were used for agriculture and pasturing livestock. Meadows were planted with vegetables, orchards and small lawns were established near structures, and shade trees were planted adjacent to new development. By 1890, approximately 200 acres on the valley floor were under cultivation.

Campsites for visitors were generally located in the eastern part of the valley, sited along the riverbanks.