B08_-_Solicitation_Attachment_0017_GL-PD_19021_-_Necktie.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD 19021

July 15, 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

NECKTIE, UNISEX

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE. This purchase description covers the requirements for a polyester/wool necktie. The neckties are intended to be worn by male and female military personnel of the Department of the

Army.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The neckties will be available in one (1) type in the following styles:

2.1 Styles.

Style A: Regular

Style B: Short

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 Description. The necktie shall be a two-fold, four-in-hand design, with pointed ends, interlinings and a retainer loop. The wide end of the necktie shall be tipped with lining fabric and the narrow end shall be self-faced. The shaped interlining shall extend from the point of the wide end to the first seam and shall be left free for a distance of 2 to 2-1/2-inches at the wide end of the necktie. The 1-1/4-inch bias strip of interlining shall be placed 1-3/8-inches from bottom of the wide end of the shaped interlining and stitched in the center of the seam. The retainer loop shall be fused at the ends prior to assembly and finish on the underside of necktie. The loop shall be 8 (+1/4)-inches from the bottom point of the wide end of the necktie, centered horizontally. The retainer loop shall have sufficient fullness to accommodate the narrow end of the necktie with no twists or puckers. The finished necktie shall be pressed, with center seam centered, and without any seam impression or gloss.

AMSC N/A FSC 8440

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10

General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall conform to Class 1 of GL-PD 19009. The color shall be Heritage Green 564, unless otherwise specified.

3.2.2 Interlining. The material for interlining the neckties shall be a crease resistant, natural color, densely needled, 50/50 polyester/wool blend, with a weight of 8 to 8-1/2 oz/sq. yards, or equal (see 7.8).

3.2.3 Tipping. The material for the tipping shall conform to Class 2 of GL-PD 19011, or equal.

The color shall be Black, unless otherwise specified.

3.2.4 Retainer loop. Unless otherwise specified, the material for the retainer loop shall be the basic material (see 3.2.1). The retainer loop shall finish 3/4 (± 1/32)-inch wide and long enough to accommodate the narrow end of the necktie.

3.3 Thread. The thread for neckties shall be cotton, Tex 50 (ticket No. A), 3 ply conforming to

Type I of A-A-52094. As an alternate, cotton-covered polyester thread, Tex 36-45 (Ticket No.

5), 2 ply, conforming to Type I of A-A-50199 may be used. The color of the thread for the neckties shall be a close match to Heritage Green 564, unless otherwise specified in the contract.

3.3.1 Seams and stitches. All joining seams shall have 10 to 12 stitches per inch. All seams shall be sewn so that no raw edges, run offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that the stitching will not be tight or loose and the stitching shall be balanced. The ends of all seams not caught in other seams or stitching shall be backtacked not less than 1/2-inch.

3.4 Labels. Each necktie shall have a combination size, identification and care label.

The color of the labels shall be white, unless otherwise specified and the printing shall be black.

The inspection legibility, label and label attachment shall last the expected life of the necktie.

3.4.1 Combination size, identification and care label. The combination size, identification and care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be caught in the seam of facing at the narrow end of necktie. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The label shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning in accordance with AATCC Test Method 132. The age code (see 3.4.3.1) shall be positioned at the bottom of label. The label shall include, but not be limited to, the following information:

Necktie, Regular (Example)

Shell: 55% Polyester/45% Wool (Example)

SPOl00-00-0-000 (Example)

XYZ Manufacturing (Example)

Dry Clean Only

Q3 2007 or 03/2007 (Example)

3.4.2 Barcode label/hang tag. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each necktie shall have a barcode label/hang tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-

32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSN's by the contracting activity. The initials "UPC" must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so it is completely visible on the necktie when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.

3.4.3 Certification label. Each necktie shall have a hang tag label attached stating certification information as described in 5.7 (see 7.7). As an alternate the certification label may be combined with the identification label (see 3.4.1).

3.4.3.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.5 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns, shall be furnished by the Government. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation and manufacturing procedures; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the Government furnished patterns provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the necktie shall be cut from materials specified, in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table II.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Style A

Basic material

Tip

Neck

Tail

PD19021A-TIP

PD19021A-NECK

PD19021A-TAIL

Interlining Sew-In Interlining PD19021A-INERLINING 1

Tipping Tipping PD19021A-TIPPING 1

Style B

Basic material

Tip

Neck

Tail

PD19021B-TIP

PD19021B-NECK

PD19021B-TAIL

Interlining Sew-In Interlining PD19021B-INERLINING 1

Tipping Tipping PD19021B-TIPPING 1

3.6 Finished measurements. The neckties shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Table III (see Figure 1).

TABLE III. Finished measurements (inches).

Widest

Point at

Bottom (A)

From Tip at

Wide End Up

24 inches (B)

Width at

Narrow End

(C)

Overall Length from Point to

Point (D)

Style A (Regular) 3 1-3/4 1-1/2 61

Style B (Short) 3 1-3/4 1-1/2 57

Tolerance + 1/8 + 1/8 + 1/8 + 1/4

NOTE: Refer to Figure 1 for A, B, C and D measurements

3.7 Toxicity. The finished necktie shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 5.6. Chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.7.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process the necktie shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.8 Workmanship. The finished neckties shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits.

3.9 Equal item. Prior to use of an "or equal" item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. Unless otherwise specified, the offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS.

5.1 Product conformance. Each necktie provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this purchase description, conform to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market.

The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract or purchase order. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract or purchase order.

5.2 Market acceptance. The neckties must have been sold to the commercial market or the

Government.

5.3 End item inspection procedures. Sampling for inspection shall be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes (see 7.2.3).

5.4 End item visual examination. Each necktie shall be examined for the defects listed in Table

IV. The lot size shall be expressed in units of neckties. The sample unit is one (1) necktie. The inspection level and AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. Unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects visible from a normal inspection distance of 3-feet. Material defects are defined in ASTM D3990.

TABLE IV. Visual defects.

Examine Defect

Material and workmanship

Hole, cut, tear, needle chew, abraded surface, weak or thin spot, tear or rip

Any component part full, tight, omitted, improper, twisted or not cut as specified

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part

Measurement of components not as specified, finished measurements not as specified

Any spot or stain on outside

Pointed ends poorly shaped or twisted affecting appearance

Seams and stitching

Loose or tight stitching, broken or missing thread or stitch

Open or puckered seam, seams and stitching not as specified, irregular stitching, any component part caught in unrelated stitching, any seam twisted or pleated, any stitching omitted or insecure, or a raw edge

Color Not specified color; not uniform due to discoloration, any shaded part

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable, five (5) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8-inch or less or not removed; odor affecting serviceability

Labels Any label omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified;

barcodes omitted, not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRl) omitted or illegible; barcode not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code attachment causes damage to the item

Interlining Interlining missing, not laying flat, twisted affecting appearance and not as specified

Marking Identification information; missing, incomplete, incorrect, not legible

Packaging Not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

5.5 End item dimensional examination. The necktie shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements specified in Table III. Any dimension that is not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of neckties. The sample unit shall be one (1) necktie. The inspection level, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

5.6 Toxicity test. When required (see 7.6), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of the studies indicate the necktie is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the

Modified Draize Procedure (see 7.2.4). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.7) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required.

5.7 Certification. When the neckties are purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a hang tag label incorporating certification number assigned. In addition, the hang tag label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

“This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD 19021 as specified by the Program Executive Office - Soldier and was produced under

Certificate No. from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.”

“Q3 2007 or 03/2007” (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007)

5.8 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Packaging. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

7. NOTES.

7.1 Sources of Government documents.

7.1.1 Copies of Government documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.

7.2 Sources of non-Government documents.

7.2.1 AATCC test methods are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.

7.2.2 ASTM Standards are available online at https://www.astm.org.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.astm.org./

7.2.3 ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes are available online at https://asq.org.

7.2.4 INFORMA HEALTHCARE - Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure –

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor) are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.

7.3 Standard samples and patterns. For access to standard samples and patterns address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

7.4 Intended use. The neckties are intended for wear by male and female personnel of the Army as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

7.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

7.6 Ordering data. The contract or purchase order should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Style required (see 2.1).

c. Labeling information (see 3.4).

d. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.7 and 5.6).

e. Regulatory requirements (see 4).

f. Product conformance provisions (see 5.1).

g. Acceptance criteria (see 5.8).

h. Packaging requirements (see 6.1).

7.7 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities

Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

7.8 Interlining material. Harodite style Haro-Lining WP8-74 has been found to meet these requirements.

7.9 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Neckwear https://asq.org/

FIGURE 1. Necktie, Unisex

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army - GL Army - GL