B08_-_Solicitation_Attachment_0013_GL-PD_19017_-_Shirt_Women's_Overblous....pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-19017

16 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, WOMEN’S, OVERBLOUSE

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a short and long sleeve shirt. The shirts are intended to be worn by female military personnel of the Department of the

Army.

1.2 Classification. The shirt will be available in the following types, styles, classes and sizes.

1.2.1 Types. The shirts are available in the following types:

Type I - Officer

Type II - Enlisted

1.2.2 Styles. The shirts are available in the following styles:

Style A - Short Sleeve

Style B - Long Sleeve

1.2.3 Classes. The shirts are available in the following classes:

Class 1 - 55/45% Polyester/Wool

Class 2 - 75/25% Polyester/Wool

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CDDC) Soldier Center, 10

General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

GL-PD 19017

1.2.4 Sizes. The shirts are available in the following sizes:

Schedule of Sizes for Type I and Type II.

Size

Length

Petite Regular Tall X-Tall

4 X X X -

6 X X X -

8 X X X X

10 X X X X

12 X X X X

14 X X X X

16 X X X --

18 X X X --

20 X X X --

22 X X X --

24 -- X -- --

26 -- X -- --

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50135 - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

A-A-59989 - Thread, Polyester, Spun

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD 19009 - Cloth, Tropical: Plain Weave Polyester and Wool

GL-PD 19011 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

(Copies of these documents are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC Test Method 88B - Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home

Launderings

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

AATCC Test Method 143 - Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after

Repeated Home Launderings

AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas

AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for Evaluating Single- and Double-

Needle Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D747 - Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of

Fabric

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM D6988 - Standard Guide for Determination of Thickness of Plastic Film

Test Specimens

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure -

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The shirt shall be a short sleeve or long sleeve, hip length design with shirt tail hemline and shoulder loops (Type I). The shirts body shall be tapered at natural waist, at side seams, and front and back princess seams. The Style A shirts shall have a six (6) button front closure, a convertible collar with full collar stand with button closure and hemmed short sleeves.

https://www.astm.org/ https://www.crcpress.com/

The Style B shirts shall have a seven (7) button front closure, a convertible collar with full collar stand and button closure, and long sleeves with bound placket openings, two (2) sleeve pleats, and a rounded edge cuff with two (2) buttons for adjustment. The top plies of the collar, collar stand, and cuffs (Style B) shall have a sewn-in or alternate fusible interlining. The shirt collars shall have collar stays attached to the under collar. The shirts shall have one (1) extra button sewn to the inside right side seam 4 (± 1/2)-inches up from the finished hem and shall be attached to the seam allowance only (see Figures 1 and 2).

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Class 1. The basic material for the Class 1 shirt shall be 5.0 (± 0.20) oz./sq. yard, 55/45 polyester/wool, plain weave conforming to Class 1 of GL-PD-19009. The color shall be

Heritage Tan 566, unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.4.2 Class 2. The basic material for the Class 2 shirt shall be 5.0 (± 0.20) oz./sq. yard, 75/25 polyester/wool, plain weave conforming Class 2 of GL-PD 19009. The color shall be

Heritage Tan 566, unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.4.3 Lining. The material for the collar stand lining shall be 100 percent polyester twill conforming to Class 2 of GL-PD 19011 or equal. The color of the material shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.4.4 Interlining. The interlining material for the collar, collar stand, cuffs (Style B) and shoulder loops (Type I) shall be a blend of 50 percent polyester and 50 percent cotton conforming to requirements specified in Table I, when tested in accordance with 4.7.1.

TABLE I. Interlining requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz./sq. yd. (max) 4

Weave Plain

Yarn per inch (min):

Warp 57

Filling 57

Breaking strength, lbs. (min):

Warp 85

Filling 72

Stiffness, inch-pounds:

Warp

0.0085 - 0.1125

Filling 0.00425 - 0.0575

Dimensional stability, after 3 launderings, percent (max):

Warp 2.4

Filling 2.0

3.4.4.1 Alternate interlining. As an alternate, a fusible conforming to Type V, Class 2, Style

B of MIL-C-44296 may be used for the collar, collar stand, cuffs (Style B) and shoulder loops

(Type I.) only. If automatic crease banding collar stand equipment is used, the fusible material shall be on a nonwoven, thermal bonded polyester substrate coated on both sides with a polyvinyl acetate co-polymer adhesive with a total minimum weight of 1.4 ounces per square yard or a woven 100 percent cotton substrate coated on both sides with the polyvinyl acetate with a total minimum weight of 1.8 ounces per square yard. As a non-fusible alternate, the front facing interlining may be made with 100 percent polyester conforming to GL-PD-19011.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type I, Style 24, Class 1, 20 ligne of A-A-59994.

The color of the buttons shall be a good match to Heritage Tan 566.

3.5.2 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall conform to the requirements in

Table II. Alternate thread requirements shall conform to Table III. All thread shall be non-staining and shall conform to requirements in A-A-50199 or A-A-59989, as specified. The thread color shall be a good match to the basic material.

TABLE II. Thread requirements.

Component area Specification Tex size Ply

Seaming and stitching A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 21-24 2

Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 21-24 2

TABLE III. Alternate thread requirements.

Component area Specification Tex size Ply

Pocket attachment, collar attachment, cuff assembly, collar stand assembly, hemming, and top stitching

A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 25-30 2

Seaming and stitching A-A-59989 45 2 or 3

Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-59989 25 2

3.5.3 Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from a polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet. The thickness shall 0.020 (± 0.001)-inch. The color shall be natural (clear or opaque).

Either both ends shall be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, or one (1) end shall be rounded and one (1) end tapered with the point rounded. The collar stays may be unslotted or slotted.

3.5.3.1 Unslotted stays. The unslotted stays shall measure 3/8 (± 1/16)-inch wide and 2-1/4

(± 1/16)-inches long.

3.5.3.2 Slotted stays. The slotted stays shall measure 3/8 (± 1/16)-inch wide and 2-1/4

(± 1/16)-inches long. The stay shall have two (2) slots 3/4 (± 1/16)-inch long centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/32-inch wide and spaced approximately equidistant across the width of the stay.

3.6 Labels. Each shirt shall have a combination identification and care instruction label and a size label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/care label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The color of the labels shall be white and the printing shall be black. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the shirt.

3.6.1 Combination identification and care instructions label. The combination identification and care instruction label shall conform to Type V, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be sewn into the left side seam. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The printed label shall be facing the body. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions:

1. Wash using soap or a mild detergent

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH, USE FABRIC SOFTENER OR COMMERCIAL

LAUNDER.

3. Remove from water before last spin cycle, shape and hang.

Touch up if required. Steam iron at low setting.

Or

3. DRY CLEAN

4. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

5. Remove gloss marks at edges and seams with iron and damp cloth

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The size label shall be positioned at the center back of the collar and shall be attached in the collar stand neck joining seam. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The printed label shall be facing the body. The size label shall include the following information for the applicable size and body length Petite (P), Regular (R), Tall (T) and X-Tall (X-T) and National Stock Number

(NSN) and actual body dimensions for bust as specified in Table II.

Example:

12R

XXX-XXXXX-XNSN

3.6.3 Barcode label/tag. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each shirt shall have a barcode label/tag in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075.

The barcoding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity.

The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the shirt when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the shirt.

3.6.4 Certification label. Each shirt shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.9 (see 6.8). The certification label shall be sewn into the left side seam, next to the combination identification and care instruction label. Stitching shall not be through printing. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractors working patterns, shall be furnished by the Government. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation and manufacturing procedures; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise indicated. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on visible parts of the shirt is prohibited.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the shirt shall be cut from the materials specified, in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table IV.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Basic material

(see 3.4)

Center front PD19017-CENTER-FRONT 2

Side front PD19017-SIDE-FRONT 2

Side back PD19017-SIDE-BACK 2

Center back

Collarstand

Collar

Undercollar

Collar stay

PD19017-CENTER-BACK

PD19017-CLLR-STND

PD19017-CLLR

PD19017-CLLR-UNDR

PD19017-CLLR-STAY

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts. - Continued

3.9 End item seam and fabric appearance, bonding strength of fusible and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays.

3.9.1 Seam and fabric appearance rating. After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.7.2.2, the appearance rating of the seams and stitching and fabric shall be as specified in Table V when tested as specified in 4.7.4:

TABLE V. Appearance ratings.

Part Minimum Average of 3

Observations 1/

Fabric overall 3.7

Fused collar edges 3.7

Fused shoulder loops 3.7

Cuffs (Style B) 3.3

Armholes 3.3

Bust 3.3

Sleeve hems (Style A) 3.3

Underarm seams 3.3

Front, back and side seams 3.3

Bottom hem 3.3

1/ No individual observation shall be lower than a rating of “3”.

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut Parts

Basic material –

Continued

(see 3.4)

Long sleeve

Cuff

Sleeve binding

Short sleeve

Shoulder loop (Type I)

PD19017-SLV-LS

PD19017-SLV-LS-CUFF

PD19017-SLV-LS-BINDING

PD19017-SLV-SS

PD19017-SHLDR-LOOP

Lining

(see 3.4.3)

Collar stand lining PD19017-SLLR-STND-LIN 1

Interlining

(see 3.4.4)

Collar stand interlining

Collar interlining

Sleeve cuff

Shoulder loop interlining

PD19017-CLLR-STND-INT

PD19017-CLLR-INT

PD19017-SLV-LS-CUFF-INT

PD19017-SHLDR-LOOP-INT

Templates Buttonhole-LS-Template

Buttonhole-SS-Template

PD19017-BUTTONHOLE-LS-MARKER

PD19017-BUTTONHOLE-SS-MARKER

3.9.2 Bonding strength and appearance of fusible. After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.7.2.2, it shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no “strike-through” of adhesive after fusing.

3.9.3 Ultrasonically fused collar stay resistance to laundering (where applicable). After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.7.3, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays. There shall be no delamination of any fused points.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitching, seams and stitching shall conform to

ASTM D6193. All seams shall have 12-14 stitches per inch and all exposed front facing edges shall be covered with stitch type 502 or 503. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The width of overedging shall be 3/16 to 1/4-inch. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the frayed edges of the fabric. All seams shall start and finish evenly. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16-inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2-inch. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of

1/2-inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4-inch maximum length.

3.10.2 Buttonholes. The buttonhole shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and finished inside cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16-inches long. When purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt, except for the neck closure buttonhole which shall have the purling on the inside of the collar stand. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8-inch of the tack.

3.10.3 Marking. The parts of the shirt shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except.

a. Metal fastening devices

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

3.10.4 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations.

Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.10.5 Fusing. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material, All fusibles shall be bonded per manufacturer’s recommended settings using electronic fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron.

3.10.6 Collar and collar stand. The collar shall be carefully joined in accordance with pattern notches without twists, puckers or distortion of the collar. The collar shall have slotted, unslotted or ultrasonically fused collar stays. The collar points shall finish 2-7/8 (± 1/16)-inches in length and shall be of equal length. The collar shall be top stitched 1/4-inch from edge. The collar shall be joined to the collar stand with notches matching without twists, puckers or distortion to the collar or collar stand. The collar ends shall be centered at equal distances from the center of the shirt front and collar stand button extension shall be 1/2 (-0, +1/8)-inch. The collar and collar stand assembly shall be joined to the shirt in accordance with pattern notches without twist, puckers, or distortion to the collar stand or shirt. The collar stand shall be edge stitched 1/16 (+

1/16, -0)-inch. The collar stand at center back of neck shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/8)-inches. When the alternate automatic collar stand creaser is used, the shape and size of the collar stand must conform to the pattern requirements specified in this document.

3.10.7 Shoulder loops (Type I). The shoulder loops shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The shoulder loops shall measure 1-7/8 (± 1/8)-inches wide at the armhole seam tapering to a width of 1-1/2 (± 1/8)-inches at the pointed end and shall be topstitched 1/4 (± 1/16)-inch from the edge. Each shoulder loop shall have a clean cut horizontal buttonhole with the inside cut end of the buttonhole 3/8 to 1/2-inch from point of loop.

Each shoulder loop shall be positioned with point of loop 1/4 (± 1/8)-inch in front of shoulder seam and the point shall finish 3/4 (± 1/8) inch from neckline seam, with front edge of loop at armhole opening 1 (± 1/16) inch forward of shoulder seam. One (1) button shall be sewn through the button stay reinforcement (see 3.4.5) approximately 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch in front of shoulder seam on each shoulder to correspond with buttonhole in the shoulder loop. When buttoned, each shoulder loop shall lay flat and taught without gaping.

3.10.8 Sleeves.

3.10.8.1 Short sleeves (Style A). Sleeve opening shall be clean finished with 1-inch topstitch on turnback hem. The sleeves may be hemmed only after seaming the sleeves.

3.10.8.2 Long sleeves and cuffs (Style B). Each long sleeve shall have a basic material sleeve binding positioned in accordance with the pattern. The binding shall finish 1/2 (± 1/16)-inches wide and shall be diagonally backtacked or bartacked stitched on the inside top opening through all folded plies. The binding front edge shall be turned under at the cuff joining seam.

The sleeves shall have two (2) 3/8 (± 1/16)-inches deep pleats positioned in accordance with pattern that fold towards sleeve back. The cuffs shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. The cuffs shall finish 2-1/4 (± 1/8)-inches wide and shall have rounded lower corners. The folded cuff joining seam shall be top stitched 5/8 (± 1/16)-inches. The cuff shall be top stitched along the sides and bottom with a uniform gauge, 1/4

(± 1/16)-inches and stitching shall start and terminate at the folded joining seam top stitching with 1/4 (± 1/16)-inch backtack stitching. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and correctly positioned, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside and no loose stitching. Make a horizontal buttonhole 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch long, straight-cut, purl or whip type buttonhole in the center of each cuff (1/4-inch off center tolerance) with the end of the buttonhole 1/2 (± 1/8)-inch from the edge. The purl side, if applicable, of the buttonhole shall face toward the outside of the cuff. Each cuff shall have two (2) buttons with the first button sewn 1/2 to 5/8-inch on center from cuff edge and the second button 7/8 to 1-inch, on center from the first button center

3.10.9 Front buttonholes. Make five (5) vertical buttonholes on right front of the Style A shirt through the facing centered over marks on pattern, positioned 3/4 (± 1/16)-inch from front edge (see 3.10.2). Make six (6) vertical buttonholes on right front of the Style B shirt through the facing centered over marks on pattern positioned 3/4 (± 1/16)-inch from front edge (see

3.10.2). (NOTE: Buttonhole marks on pattern differ for Style A and Style B shirts - see markers). Make one (1) horizontal buttonhole on right front of shirt collar stand through the facing with front inner cut edge of buttonhole 3/8 (± 1/16)-inch from front edge and 3/8

(± 1/16)-inch from top of facing.

3.10.10 Front buttons. The buttons shall be aligned and securely sewn in the center of the buttonholes (± 1/16)-inch on front of shirt and shoulder loops. The top collar stand button shall be sewn 3/4 (± 1/16)-inch from left front edge. Sew remaining buttons on the Style A and B shirts to left front of shirt 3/4 (± 1/16)-inch from the front edge through the front facing. Two

(2) replacement buttons shall be furnished in a small plastic bag swift tacked to the left underarm seam.

3.10.11 Underarm seams. The side seams and sleeve seams shall all meet at the underarm and not be staggered by more than 1/8-inch. The left and right side seams and sleeve seams shall be sewn with the folded seam edge facing towards the shirt back.

3.10.12 Bottom hem. Bottom hem shall be clean finished 1/2-inch topstitched double turn back. The bottom hem shall be a shirt tail design according to pattern. The seams shall not be twisted. The hem shall finish smooth and flat without puckers or twists.

3.10.13 Pressing and closing shirt. The shirt shall have a finished press appearance. If necessary, to achieve the required finished press appearance, touch-up fronts, backs, sleeves and bottom hems and collars before folding for packaging. The shirt shall be fully buttoned.

3.10.14 Cleaning. All loose thread shall be removed. All spots, stains and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.11 Finished measurements. The shirts shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Table VI.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements (inches).

Size Neck

1/

Bust

2/

Waist

3/

Sweep

4/

Across

Shoulder

5/

Back Length

6/

Sleeve

Length

(Style A) 7/

Bicep

(Style B)

8/ Petite Regular Tall X-Tall

4 13-1/4 35-1/2 29-1/2 38 15-3/8 21-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2 -- 3-3/4 13-7/8

6 13-3/4 36-1/2 30-1/2 39 15-5/8 21-5/8 22-5/8 23-5/8 -- 3-3/4 14-1/8

8 14-1/4 37-1/2 31-1/2 40 15-7/8 21-3/4 22-3/4 23-3/4 24-3/4 3-3/4 14-3/8

10 14-3/4 39 33 41-1/2 16-1/8 21-7/8 22-7/8 23-7/8 24-7/8 3-3/4 14-5/8

12 15-1/4 40-1/2 34-1/2 43 16-1/2 22 23 24 25 3-3/4 15

14 15-3/4 42 36 44-1/2 17 22-1/8 23-1/8 24-1/8 25-1/8 3-3/4 15-3/8

16 16-1/4 44 38 46 17-1/2 22-1/4 23-1/4 24-1/4 -- 3-3/4 15-3/4

18 16-3/4 46 40 48 18 22-3/8 23-3/8 24-3/8 -- 3-3/4 16-1/8

20 17-1/4 48 42 50 18-1/2 22-1/2 23-1/2 24-1/2 -- 3-3/4 16-1/2

22 17-3/4 50 44 52 19 22-5/8 23-5/8 24-5/8 -- 3-3/4 16-7/8

24 18-1/4 52 46 54 19-1/2 -- 23-3/4 -- -- 3-3/4 17-1/4

26 18-3/4 54 48 56 20 -- 23-7/8 -- -- 3-3/4 17-5/8

Tol. ± 1/4 ± 3/4 ± 3/4 ± 3/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/4

Sleeve Length (Style B) 9/

Size Petite Regular Tall X-Tall

4 31 32 33 34

6 31-1/8 32-1/8 33-1/8 34-1/8

8 31-1/4 32-1/4 33-1/4 34-1/4

10 31-3/8 32-3/8 33-3/8 34-3/8

12 31-1/2 32-1/2 33-1/2 34-1/2

14 31-5/8 32-5/8 33-5/8 34-5/8

16 31-3/4 32-3/4 33-3/4 34-3/4

18 31-7/8 32-7/8 33-7/8 34-7/8

20 32 33 34 35

22 32-1/8 33-1/8 34-1/8 35-1/8

24 32-1/4 33-1/4 34-1/4 35-1/4

26 32-3/8 33-3/8 34-3/8 35-3/8

Tolerance ± 1/2

1/ Neck: Measurement taken from center of collar button to front cut-end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position.

2/ Bust: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, measure across from folded edge to folded edge at bottom of armhole seams.

3/ Waist: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, locate waist by measuring down from center back neck (bottom of collar) as specified and measure straight across on waist from folded edge to folded edge: 14-inches for Petite; 15-inches for Regular; 16-inches for Tall and 17-inches for X-Tall.

4/ Sweep: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, measure sweep from bottom edge across the finished hem’s curve, folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Across shoulder: With folded shirt laid flat, back panel facing up, catch armhole seams at armhole and side seams intersection, smooth fabric up towards shoulders to find shoulder points at armhole seam. Measure across back from shoulder point seam to shoulder point seam.

6/ Back length: Measurements taken at center back from bottom of collar stand joining seam to bottom of shirt.

7/ Sleeve length (Style A): Measure sleeve inseam from armhole to bottom of sleeve hem.

8/ Bicep (Style B): Twice the measurement with sleeve flat, the bicep is located at 1” down along underarm seam, measure across sleeve perpendicular to underarm seam.

9/ Sleeve Length (Style B): Measure from center back neck at collar seam on a straight line to shoulder point and along outseam of sleeve to bottom of hem (3 point measurement).

3.12 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.8. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.12.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process that cloth shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished shirt shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color, and visual defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.7.1.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.5 and 4.6 and the testing of 4.7 and 4.8, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or purchase order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).

4.5 End item visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in Table

VIII. The lot shall be expressed in units of shirts. The sample unit is one (1) shirt. The inspection level and AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. Unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects visible from a normal inspection distance of 3-feet. Material defects are defined in ASTM D3990.

TABLE VIII. End item visual defects.

Examine Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Material

Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar

Color streaked, barred, mottled or not as specified; area of poor dye penetration extending more than 1/4-inch in any direction on outside part, dye streak, visible mend, thin place, permanent crease

Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than fabric Defect Replica Scale Level D (see 2.3)

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part

Component color not as specified

Component parts

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part, misplaced, or omitted

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Stitches and

Seams

Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted or irregular, not as specified, needle chew Irregular stitching, or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured

Visible mend, pleat or crease

Needle perforations clearly visible on outside

Any part of shirt caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

TABLE VIII. End item visual defects. - Continued

Buttons Not specified type, size, or color

Misplaced, omitted, broken or defective

Not attached as specified, or insecurely sewn- stitching not locked at end of cycle (tug at loose end of thread when accessible to determine if it will ravel)

Buttonholes

Any omitted, added, misplaced, ragged edges, caught in other stitching or component, not secured through proper layers of fabric, not serving intended purpose, broken stitches

Not specified size or type, finished cut length not as specified, two (2) or more uncut yarn per buttonhole

Fronts Width of facing not as specified

Facing not smooth and flat (evidence of puckering)

Front edge not folded straight with warp (curved or angled)

Two (2) or more buttonholes:

Spacing between unequal by 1/4-inch or more

Out of vertical alignment by 1/8-inch or more

When buttoned:

Front facing tight or twisted causing noticeable bulge

Uneven in length at bottom by 1/2-inch or more

Misaligned buttons with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness

Hem type, or width not as specified

Shoulder Loops Not specified dimension, not uniform size or shape, any point varying 1/4-inch or more

Shoulder loop puckered, twisted, or distorted, not positioned as specified or attached crookedly

Button stay omitted or improperly positioned or not securely attached

Collar Not uniform in size or shape, distorted, or twisted

Edges of under collar exposed beyond edge of top collar

Collar points:

uneven in length by 1/8-inch or more greater than 2-3/4-inches or less than 2-1/2- inches not properly forced out

Width of collar stand varying more than 3/16-inch when measured at the two (2) shoulder seams at junction of collar

Collar not positioned properly, off center by 1/4-inch or more

Collar opening less than 3/8-inch or more than 1/2-inch when collar is buttoned

Collar not as specified, distorted or not positioned properly

No collar stays

TABLE VIII. End item visual defects. - Continued

Sleeves

Tight, or excessive puckers, twisted, sleeves reversed.

Long sleeves (Style B):

Binding omitted, improperly positioned, puckered, twisted or distorted, not specified width or length, top of binding not stitched as specified, sides of opening uneven in length

Pleat omitted, misplaced, facing incorrect direction, or not specified size

Cuff puckered, twisted, or distorted, not uniform in size or shape, not stitched as specified

Short sleeves (Style A):

Hem not as specified

Pressing Some or all pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area, not presenting a finished appearance, poorly pressed

Fusible interlining

Bubbling, delamination, bleed through, resin transfer, wrinkling, or puckering

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable

Five (5) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8-inch or less or not removed

Odor affecting serviceability, any lint, dust or foreign matter not removed

Any shade identification marking visible on outside of shirt

(as worn)

Two (2) or more shade identification labels not removed

Workmanship Distorted parts or poor workmanship, visible drill hole on outside of shirt (as worn)

Any edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds more than 1/16-inch.

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified 145

Packaging Any shirt not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The shirt shall be examined for conformance to the finished dimensions specified in Table VI. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of shirts. The sample unit shall be one (1) shirt. The inspection level, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.7 Methods of inspection. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement document. (see

6.2).

4.7.1 Material component testing. The interlining fabric (see 3.4.4) shall be tested for characteristics listed in Table IX. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table IX shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width of the finished material to conduct all tests. The lot size shall be as stated in the contract or purchase order. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified.

TABLE IX. Material test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Fiber ID 3.4.4 AATCC 20A

Weight, oz./sq. yd (min) Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M

Construction Table I Visual

Yarn per inch (min)

Warp Table I ASTM D3775

Filling Table I ASTM D3775

Breaking strength, (lbs.) min

Warp Table I ASTM D5034

Filling Table I ASTM D5034

Stiffness, psi Table I ASTM D747

Dimensional stability, after 3 launderings, (percent)

Warp Table I AATCC135, 3,III, Aii

Filling Table I AATCC135, 3,III, Aii

4.7.2 Seam and fabric appearance evaluation.

4.7.2.1 Apparatus. The following apparatus is required for evaluating samples for seam and fabric appearance:

a. AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas.

b. AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for evaluating single- and double-needle seams.

4.7.2.2 Laundering and conditioning procedure. The sample shirt shall be laundered five (5) complete cycles in accordance with AATCC 143. The laundering parameters are: Machine

Wash Permanent Press Cycle; Rinse Cold; Tumble Dry Permanent Press.

(NOTE: During any interruptions between cycles and during conditioning and evaluation, the test shirt shall be hung on wooden or plastic hangers and shall be buttoned at the front.)

4.7.2.3 Evaluation of the appearance of fabric and seams. After the test shirt has been laundered and conditioned as specified in 4.7.2.2, the shirt shall be evaluated for the fabric smoothness appearance in accordance AATCC 143 and seam appearance in accordance with

AATCC 88B. Each characteristic shall be assigned an average numerical value and the values recorded. A test failure shall be reported if any appearance rating falls below the minimum average of three (3) ratings or any one (1) observation rating falls below a rating of “3” as specified in 3.9.1.

4.8 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the cap or material is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.12) can be with the demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.9 Certification. When the shirts are purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a label incorporating certification number assigned. In addition, the label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

"This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD 19017 as specified by the Program Executive Office - Soldier and was produced under Certificate No. from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.”

“Q3 2007 or 03/2007” (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007)”

5. PACKAGING.

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When packaging of shirts is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the

Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the Military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are intended for wear by female personnel of the Army as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description

b. Types, styles, classes and sizes required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2)

d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2)

e. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.12 and 4.8).

f. Conformance inspection and acceptance quality limits (AQL)(see 4.3).

g. Inspection conditions (see 4.4)

h. Packaging (see 5.1)

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples and Government patterns. For access to standard samples and patterns address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Seam appearance. In order to avoid puckering and to produce the flattest seams possible, consideration must be given to the following:

a. The needles used for all seams should be as fine as possible consistent with the size or diameter of the thread used.

b. The throat plate hole should be no larger than necessary to permit free entry of the needle and to prevent flagging.

c. The finest feed (approximately 18 teeth) possible should be used with a pressure foot to exactly match the shape and size of the feed. The face of the pressure foot (underside next to the feed on the machine) should be highly polished to eliminate roughness and reduce drag.

Diamond shaped feed teeth have been used quite successfully.

d. The lightest foot pressure should be used to prevent stretching of the top ply of material.

e. In the safety stitch machine (515, 516, 519) the upper and lower trimming knives should be kept at peak sharpness to prevent “dragging” of the edge of the fabric.

f. In stitch type 301 sewing, the bobbin tension should be adjusted to that when a full bobbin is placed in the bobbin case and thread through the tension spring, the bobbin and case shall ride slowly down the thread when the free end of the thread is held in the vertical position.

Needle tension should be adjusted after the bobbin tension to provide slightly more needle thread than bobbin thread in the stitch.

g. When sewing with stitch type 401(including the seaming row of the safety stitches), the thread ratio (needle and looper) should be adjusted to produce a stitch with 60 to 70 percent needle thread, and both needle and looper thread tension shall be held to the minimum.

h. Thread take-up mechanism should be set on all machines to relieve as much tension as possible when forming the stitch. All thread contacts should be well polished and free of burrs, cuts, and rough spots.

6.6 Ultrasonic welding conditions for collar stay. The following ultrasonic welding conditions have been found to provide welds meeting the requirements of this document. These limits are furnished for guidance only. For optimum results with a particular ultrasonic machine used, specific machine settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the ultrasonic equipment.

Pressure, psi

Minimum

35.0

Maximum

40.0

Weld time, seconds 0.2 0.3

Down speed, inches/minute 10.0 12.0

Trigger pressure, pounds 8.0 10.0

Hold time, seconds 0.0 0.05

6.7 Fabric Defect Replica Scales. Defect replica scales (see 2.3) are available for purchase from SDL Atlas. Contact Customer Service 1-803-329-2110 (request item number 402985 -

Slub/Knot Replica Set).

6.8 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities

Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

6.9 Subject term (keyword) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Polyester/Wool

Type I

Front View Back View

Type II

FIGURE 1. Shirt, Women’s, Style A

Type I

Type II

FIGURE 2. Shirt, Women’s, Style B

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army-GL Army-GL