B08_-_Solicitation_Attachment_0009_GL-PD_19013_-_Braid_Textile_Flat.pdf

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General

Greene Avenue Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

INCH-POUND

GL-PD 19013

15 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

BRAID, TEXTILE (FLAT)

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a cotton flat braid used as ornamentation on military uniforms and caps worn by military personnel of the Department of the Army.

1.2 Classification. This purchase description covers the following types, as specified.

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - Plain weave, 1/2-inch wide

Type II - Basket weave, 1-3/4-inches wide

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. N/A

AMSC N/A FSC 8315

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to DryCleaning

AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine Method

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard

(Copies are available online at https://www.sdlatlas.com.)

ASTM D3511/D3511M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related

Surfaces Changes Fabrics – Brush Pilling

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of

Fabric

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects https://www.ftc.gov/ http://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure -

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished braid shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Certification. All braid shall be certified by the Combat Capabilities Development

Command (CCDC) Soldier Center (see 4.6 and 6.6).

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Cotton. The yarn shall be 100 percent combed cotton. Type I shall be 30/2 and Type II shall be 40/2 nominal size yarn. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.3.

3.6 Physical requirements. The Type I and Type II braids shall conform to the requirements of Table I, when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

https://www.astm.org/ https://www.crcpress.com/

TABLE I. Flat braid physical requirements.

Characteristic Types Requirement

Width per inches Type I

Type II

1/2 (+ 1/32)

1-3/4 (+ 1/32)

Weight, oz./144 yards (min.)

Type I

Type II

Weave Type I

Type II

2/2 plain

2/2 basket

Number of carriers (min.)

Type I

Type II

Ends per carrier (min.)

Type I

Type II

Picks per inch (min.)

Type I

Type II

Breaking strength, pounds (min.)

Type I

Type II

Dimensional stability (%)(1 cycle)(max)

Length

Width

All

2.0

No less than minimum width

3.7 Color. The color of the dyed and finished braid shall be Olive Drab 568, or as specified in the contract and shall match the standard sample (see 6.4).

3.7.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished braid specified in 3.5 shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5.1.

3.7.2 Labile sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used. The dyed braid shall be “free” of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.7.3 Colorfastness. The finished braid specified in 3.5 shall conform to the colorfastness requirements listed below in Table II, unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, when tested as specified in 4.4.3

TABLE II. Colorfastness requirements.

1/ (AFU) AATCC Fading Units

Color Evaluation

Light (1 cycle)(Color

Change and Staining) (40

AFU or 170 kJ/(m2nm)@

420 nm) (min.) 1/

2/

Perspiration

(Acid & Alkaline)

(Color Change and

Staining) (min.)

Crocking

Wet & Dry

(min.)

Wet Drycleaning

(3 cycles) (Color

Change and

Staining)(min.)

All Colors 3-4 3-4 2.5 3-4

3.8 Finish. The braid shall have a finish equal to that of the standard sample (see 6.4).

3.9 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished braid shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.10 Pilling. The braid shall be processed to show no more pilling that the standard sample.

When no standard sample is available the braid shall show a rating of no less than a “4” using the

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.3.

3.11 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see

6.2), the braid shall be put-up on chipboard spools containing 144 (±2) yards each. There shall not be more than three (3) lengths per spool. No one (1) length shall be less than 5-yards. The end of the braid shall be fastened to prevent unwinding. Braid shall lay flat and shall not be twisted, knotted or tangled on the spool.

3.12 Labels. Each spool of finished braid shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.13 Toxicity. The finished braid shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.3. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.13.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process the braid shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.14 Workmanship. The finished braid shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The braid shall be free from all defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptance quality limits (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table IV.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examinations of

4.4.1 through 4.4.2 and the testing in 4.4.3 through 4.5.3, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and the acceptance quality limits (AQL) shall be as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

4.4.1 End item visual examination. The finished braid shall be examined for defects in Table

III. Fabric defects are as defined in ASTM D3990 and unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects that are visible from a normal viewing distance of 3-feet.

TABLE III. End-item visual examination.

Cord section unevenly braided

Any hole, cut or tear, any abrasion mark, spot or stain

Missing or broken yarn

Any wavy outer edges (warp direction)

Coarse or fine yarn

Braiding loose or tight

Width of flat braid or cord cover section exceeding limits

Color not as specified, mottled or uneven

Improperly or insecurely wound on spools, tangled and does not unwind properly Any individual length less than five yards

Total length more than two yards more or less than the total length marked

Any spool containing more than three (3) individual pieces

Label missing, not securely attached, incorrect or illegible

Objectionable odor

Any embedded foreign matter or uncleanness

Not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

4.4.2 Spool identification examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each spool in the sample shall be examined for labeling or ticketing in accordance with the Rules and

Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. The lot shall be unacceptable if the label or ticket is missing.

4.4.3 End item testing. The braid shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IV.

The methods of testing specified, wherever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The lot size shall be expressed in the total number of yards of braid, and the sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished braid for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units)

800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

TABLE IV. End item testing.

Characteristic Requirement

Paragraph

Test Method

Material 3.5.1 1/

Visual shade matching 3.7.1 4.5.1

Labile Sulfur 3.7.2 4.5.2 1/

Width (inches) Table I Precision Steel Ruler

Weight (oz. per 144 yds) Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M

Number of carriers Table I Visual 5/

Ends per carrier Table I Visual 5/

Picks per inch (min.)

Visual 6/

Breaking strength (lbs) Table I ASTM D5034 7/

Dimensional stability (%) (1 cycle)

Length

Width

Table I

AATCC 158

Colorfastness:

Light (40 AFU or 170 kJ/

(m2nm)@ 420nm)

Perspiration (acid & alkaline)

Crocking (wet & dry)

Wet drycleaning (1 cycle)

Table II

AATCC 16.3, Option 3 2/

AATCC 15 3/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 132 3/

pH 3.9 AATCC 81

Pilling (min.) 3.10 ASTM D3511/D3511M

Toxicity 3.13 4.5.3

1/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and acceptable for the stated requirement.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

3/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC

Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining.

4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference

Scale.

5/ One (1) determination per sample unit and results shall be reported as “actual count”.

6/ Three (3) determinations per sample unit and the results shall be reported as “pass” or

“fail”.

7/ The jaw dimensions shall be greater than the width of the braid.

4.5 Methods of inspection.

4.5.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished braid shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.5.2 Presence of labile sulfur. In the determination of labile sulfur in textile materials with lead acetate, two (2) 1.50 gram (± 0.01) gram samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two (2) samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains 100 grams of stannous chloride crystals ACS in 100 millimeters of hydrochloric acid ACS (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters of distilled water. A filter paper wet out with a 5.0 percent lead acetate solution shall be placed over the top of the test tube. The lead acetate solution contains 5.0 grams of lead acetate CP reagent grade and enough distilled water to make up a 100 milliliter solution; if the solution is not clear, add a few drops (one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The test tube containing the textile sample, stannous chloride and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows.

Free - The filter paper shows no discoloration of staining of any kind.

Slight - The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate - The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe - The filter paper shows a black color stain.

4.5.3 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the finished braid is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.13) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.6 Certification. When the braid is purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall obtain certification, as specified in 3.4, and provide their assigned certification number to the purchaser to ensure that the item has been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description (see 6.6).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of cloth is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory

Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Department of Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Departments or Agencies automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The Type I braid is intended to be used as ornamentation on male and female officer dress coats and Type II braid is intended to be used as ornamentation on service caps worn by Army personnel as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. Type required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2, and 6.3).

e. Color required (see 3.7).

f. Length required, if other than specified (see 3.11).

g. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.13 and 4.5.3).

h. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

i Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

j. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

6.6 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control

Program (UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat

Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue

Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

6.7 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Garrison Caps

Dress Uniform

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army - GL Army - GL