B08_-_Solicitation_Attachment_0006_-_GL-PD_19010_-_Cloth_Cotton_and_Poly....pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD 19010

15 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, OXFORD OR PLAIN WEAVE, COTTON AND POLYESTER

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of the Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a plain weave cotton and polyester cloth.

1.2. Classification. This purchase description covers one (1) type of cotton and polyester plain weave cloth in the following classes:

1.2.1 Class.

Class 1 - 75/25% Cotton/Polyester Oxford Weave

Class 2 - 65/35% Polyester/Cotton Plain Weave

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General

Greene Avenue Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

2.2.2 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9 - Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Accelerated

AATCC Test Method 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

AATCC Test Method 117 - Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

AATCC Test Method 124 - Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home

Launderings

AATCC Test Method 128 - Wrinkle Recovery

AATCC Test Method 130 - Soil Release; Oily Stain Release Method

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

AATCC Test Method 199 - Horizontal Wicking

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

https://www.ftc.gov/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/

ASTM Photographic Rating Standard

(Copies are available online at https://www.sdlatlas.com.)

ASTM D737 - Standard Test Method for Air Permeability

ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-

Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus

ASTM D1907/1907M - Standard Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the Skein Method

ASTM D3017 - Standard Test Method for Stretch

ASTM D3511/D3511M - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related

Surfaces Changes of Textile Fabrics - Brush Pilling Tester

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of

Woven Fabric

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Related to Fabric Defects

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D5430 - Standard Test Method for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.astm.org.)

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service. 1-803-329-2110).

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection

(see 4.2 and 6.3).

https://www.sdlatlas.com/ https://www.crcpress.com/

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Certification. All cloth shall be certified by the Combat Capabilities Development

Command (CCDC) Soldier Center (see 4.6 and 6.7).

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Cotton. The cotton fiber for class 1 warp yarns shall be standard length and micronaire typical of upland region or equal spun on Murata Jet Spun spinning equipment. The cotton fiber for class 2 warp yarns shall be standard length and shall be carded and combed.

3.5.2 Polyester. The polyester fiber shall be no greater than 1.5 denier and a minimum average fiber length shall be 1-1/2-inches.

3.5.3 Yarns.

3.5.3.1 Class 1 yarns. The warp yarn for class 1 shall consist of cotton and polyester fibers intimately blended into a single ply yarn of a 37/1 Ne size. The fill yarn for class 1shall be carded, combed and spun into a single ply 18/1 Ne size. The finished cloth shall contain no more than 25

(± 5) percent polyester and the remaining percentage cotton based on the dry weight of the desized specimen when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.5.3.2 Class 2 yarns. All yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton, drawn and spun into single yarns for both the warp and the filling. The finished cloth shall contain 65 (± 5) percent polyester and the remaining percentage cotton based on the dry weight of the desized specimen when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.6 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in

Table I, when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

TABLE I. Physical requirements

Characteristic Requirement

Class 1 Class 2

Weight, (oz./sq. yd.) 4.5 (+ 0.2) 4.3 (± 0.2)

Yarns per inch, (min.)

Warp

Filling

Tearing strength (lbs.), (min.)

9.0

4.5

7.2

4.5

Breaking strength (lbs.), (min.)

Dimensional stability, 3 cycles, percent (max.)

0.7

3.0

1.0

0.3

% Stretch (Orig/Orig x 100 = % recovery) NA 8-10%

Wrinkle recovery 2.5 – 3.0 3.5 – 4.0

Wicking NA 24.8

Soil release 3.5 3.5

Air permeability 105 95

3.6.1 Weave. The weave for class 1 shall be an oxford weave. The weave for class 2 shall be a plain weave.

3.6.2 Width. The width of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage.

3.6.3 Finish. The cloth shall be finished equal in character to that of the standard sample.

3.7 Color. The color of the dyed and finished cloth shall be Heritage Tan 566, or as specified in the contract and shall match the standard sample (see 6.4).

3.7.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5.1.

3.7.2 Labile sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used. The dyed cloth shall be “free” of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.7.3 Colorfastness. The class 1 and class 2 finished cloth specified in 3.5 shall conform to the colorfastness requirements specified in Table II, unless otherwise specified in the contract or procurement documents, when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

TABLE II. Colorfastness requirements.

1/ AFU: AATCC Fading units

3.8 Finish. The cloth shall provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample (see 6.4).

3.9 Pilling. The cloth shall be processed to show no more pilling than the standard sample.

When no standard sample is available, the cloth shall show a rating of not less than a “3” using the ASTM Photographic Rating Standard. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.4.

3.10 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.11 Fabric smoothness appearance rating. The finished cloth shall have a smoothness appearance rating of not less than “3.0” after 5 laundering cycles when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.12 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up full width on a roll as specified in 5.1.

3.13 Fiber identification. Each roll of the finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products

Identification Act.

3.14 Marking. The face or the back side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on that side of the cloth with the either word “FACE” or “BACK” at each end of the piece. The letters shall not be less than 1/2-inch in height. The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercially.

3.15 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.3. Chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.15.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process the cloth shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

3.16 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by

Color Evaluation

Laundering (1 cycle) (Color

Change and Staining)

(min.)

Light (40 AFU or

170 kJ /m2nm @ 420

nm) 1/ (min.)

Perspiration (acid & alkaline)

(Color Change and Staining)

(min.)

Crocking Wet and

Dry (min.)

Dry Heat

@350℉

All Colors 3-4 3-4 3-4 3.5 4 this purchase description. The cloth shall be free from all defects which would affect its serviceability, appearance and uniformity. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum acceptable point values.

4 VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.4.4.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examinations of 4.4.1 through 4.4.3 and the testing in 4.4.4 through 4.5.3, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and the acceptance quality limits (AQLs) as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

4.4.1 Yard by Yard visual examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard (full width excluding selvage) on the face side only with both overhead and back lighting.

The defects are as defined in ASTM D3990 and unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects that are visible from a normal viewing distance of 3-feet. The defects are assigned demerit points in accordance with ASTM D5430, Option A, with the exceptions listed below:

a. The defects found shall be counted regardless of their proximity to each other, except where two (2) or more defects represent a single local condition of the cloth, in which case only the more serious defect shall be counted.

b. Only coarse yarns that exceed twice or more the normal diameter shall be scored.

c. Mixed filling shall be scored only if attributed to shade bar resulting from wrong ply, wrong twist in the yarn or off shade yarn.

d. The defects specified in Table III shall be scored four (4) points for each yard in which they occur.

TABLE III. Defects that score four (4) points.

Defect Description

Any hole, cut, tear or abrasion mark

Edge ravels when pulled outward

Uneven weaving throughout

Broken or missing yarn

Any spot, stain or streak more than 1 inch in combined directions

Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level D (see 2.3)

Area of poor dye penetration, streak or shade bar

Width not as specified within a tolerance of no less than 1/2-inch

Objectionable odor

Slack or tight selvages

Any embedded foreign matter or uncleanness

Edges rolled folded, scalloped or corded, baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth

4.4.2 Shade and finish appearance examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade and appearance. Any roll in the sample off shade;

shaded side to side, side to center, or end to end; or not having the same finished appearance as the standard sample shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.4.3 Roll identification examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects listed below: The lot shall be unacceptable if the following defects are present in the sample.

Back or face stamping missing from either or both ends

Not labeled or ticketed in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

4.4.4 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IV.

The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more tests fails to meet the requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE IV. End item testing

Characteristic Requirement

Paragraph

Test Method

Fiber length (in.) 3.5.1 and 3.5.2 Precision steel ruler

Material fiber content: cotton and polyester 3.5.1 and 3.5.2 AATCC 20A (see 6.5)

Denier, polyester 3.5.2 ASTM D1907

Yarn ply

Weight

Yarns per inch

Tearing strength

Breaking strength

Dimensional stability (3 cycles)

% Stretch (Orig/Orig x 100 = % recovery)

Wrinkle recovery

Wicking

Soil release

Air permeability

Weave

Visual shade matching

Labile sulfur

Colorfastness:

Laundering

Light, (40 AFU or 170 kJ /(m2nm)@

420 nm)

Perspiration, acid and alkaline

Crocking, wet and dry

Dry Heat @ 350℉

Pilling pH

Fabric smoothness appearance rating

Toxicity

3.5.3

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

Table I

3.6.1

3.7.1

3.7.2

Table II

Table II

Table II

3.9

3.10

3.11

3.15

Visual 1/

ASTM D3776/3776M

ASTM D3775

ASTM D1424

ASTM D5034

AATCC 135 (3) IV Aiii 2/

ASTM D3107

AATCC 128

AATCC 199

AATCC 130-2015 Table I (iii)

ASTM 737

Visual

4.5.1

4.5.2

AATCC 61, Test 2A 3/

AATCC 16.3, Option 3 4/

AATCC 15 5/

AATCC 8 4/

AATCC 117 4/

ASTM D3511/D3511M

AATCC 81

AATCC 135 (3) IV Aiii 2/ and

AATCC 124

4.5.3

1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass” or

“fail”

2/ The test specimens shall be subjected to three (3) washing and drying cycles before the dimensional change values are calculated.

3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC

Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference

Scale.

4.5 Methods of inspection.

4.5.1 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.5.2 Presence of labile sulfur. In the determination of labile sulfur in textile materials with lead acetate, two (2) 1.50 gram (± 0.01) samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two (2) samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains 100 grams of stannous chloride crystals ACS in 100 milliliters of hydrochloric acid ACS (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters of distilled water. A filter paper wet out with a 5.0 percent lead acetate solution shall be placed over the top of the test tube. The lead acetate solution contains

5.0 grams of lead acetate CP reagent grade and enough distilled water to make up a 100 milliliter solution; if the solution is not clear add a few drops (one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The test tube containing the textile sample, stannous chloride and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows:

Free - The filter paper shows no discoloration or staining of any kind.

Slight - The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate - The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe - The filter paper shows a black color stain.

4.5.3 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.15) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.6 Certification. When the cloth is purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall obtain certification, as specified in 3.4, and provide their assigned certification number to the purchaser to ensure that the item has been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description (see 6.7).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory

Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing

Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth is intended for use in the manufacture of dress shirts worn by Army personnel as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this purchase description.

b. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

c. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

d. Width of cloth required (see 3.6.2).

e. Color rand put-up, if other than specified (see 3.12).

i. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.15 and 4.5.2 )

j. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (se 4.3).

k. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

j. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When first article inspection is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

6.6 Replica Set. The SDL Atlas Slub/Knot Replica Set is not available from their website at this time. Recommend calling customer service 1-803-329-2110.

6.7 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities

Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

6.8 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Cottton/Polyester

Dress shirts

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Arm y - G L: Army - G L