GL-PD_19022_-_Shoe,_Oxford,_Men's_-_Final_-_15Jul19.pdf

INCH-POUNDS

GL-PD 19022

15 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHOES, DRESS, OXFORD, MEN’S

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE. This purchase description covers the requirements for a commercial plain-toe, brown leather, oxford dress shoe to be worn by male military personnel of the Department of Defense. The shoes are classified by the different methods of attaching the shoe bottom

(outsole/heel) and the various outsole/heels used to produce the items.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The shoes will be available in the following types, sizes and widths, as specified.

2.1 Types:

Type I - Conventional Goodyear welt with rubber outsole and heel

Type II - Cement construction with polyurethane outsole and heel

2.2 Schedule of sizes and widths:

Size:

6 9 12

6-1/2 9-1/2 13

7 10 14

7-1/2 10-1/2 15

8 11

8-1/2 11-1/2

Widths: C, D, E, 3E

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

AMSC N/A FSC 8430

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the

Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene

Avenue Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

3.1 Description. The shoes shall be brown leather and have a plain-toe dress oxford design.

The upper shall be made with corrected or full-grain cattle hide dress shoe leather. Lining for the vamp, quarter, and tongue areas shall be as specified in Table I. The shoes shall have a commercial energy absorbing, slip-in removable formed insole and a thermoplastic box-toe counter. The closure shall be a lace and invisible (blind) eyelet system. Type I shoes shall have a commercial plastic storm-welt that goes completely around the heel of the shoe, and a rubber traction design outsole stitched to the Goodyear welt and a nail attached rubber heel.

Type II shall have a one-piece polyurethane outsole/heel. These shoes shall be produced on contractor furnished men's dress shoe lasts in accordance with manufacturer's standard patterns, dies and markers (see 7.8).

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Upper leather. The uppers shall be cut from 4 to 4-1/2-ounce corrected full grain, chrome tanned cattlehide dress shoe leather. The color shall be Heritage Walnut 567 (see

7.9). The temper (softness) and skiving of the various cut parts shall be in accordance with good commercial practice. Tannery and shoe factory dyes/finishes applied to the leather shall be compatible with each other and shall not adversely change the uniformity of color, appearance, durability or shine ability of the shoes. The finished shoe shall be capable of being polished to a high luster with a commercial paste wax before and after normal use.

3.2.2 Outsole and heels. The outsole for the Type I shoe shall be as Vibram or equal, non-marking rubber, molded with the manufacturer's commercial traction design having a total thickness of 12 irons with a minimum abrasion index of 90. The Type I heels shall be from black non-marking rubber with a traction design and shall be 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch in total height with a minimum abrasion index of 100. The outsole/heel used for the Type II shoes shall be a one-piece, non-marking, lightweight, resilient, black polyurethane microcellular foam with a commercial traction design (see ASTM D3851 for performance information on urethane microcellular shoe soling materials). The manufacturer's name or trademark may appear on any of the outsole/heels.

3.2.3 Slip-in comfort insole. Each shoe shall have a correctly sized slip-in/removable cushioned insole designed to provide enhanced foot comfort. The resilient insole should effectively absorb the impact energy that is produced when the foot comes into repeated contact with the ground during walking and running.

3.2.4 Welting. Type I shoes shall have a black, commercial grade Goodyear plastic storm welt which in the finished shoe shall continue completely around the perimeter of the heel.

The welting shall be uniform in appearance and texture and free of blemishes, cracks, blisters, voids or overlaps.

3.2.5 Insole. A high quality commercial cellulose fiberboard insole with a minimum thickness of 3-1/2 irons shall be used to produce these dress shoes. The Goodyear welt constructed shoes shall use a commercial grade stuck-on rib. The insole, with or without attached rib, shall be strong enough to provide a stable, durable and comfortable shoe. It shall have a good abrasion resistance and flex endurance properties, absorb moisture produced by perspiration and resist the deteriorating action of perspiration.

3.2.6 Bottom filler. Goodyear welt bottom filling may be accomplished using cork or a resilient foam to impart cushioning and improve comfort.

3.2.7 Box-toe/counter. A commercial thermoplastic box-toe and counter shall be used. It shall be properly molded, symmetrically fit the toe area and counter pocket, and provide structural support to the toe and heel areas of the shoe after extended wear.

3.2.8 Lining. The lining for the vamp, quarters and tongue areas shall be brown colored fabric that shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I, when tested as specified.

The fabric lining material shall then be flame-combined on the back side of the fabric to a

0.098 (± 0.005)-inch thick open cell polyester foam with a spun lace backer.

TABLE I. Lining requirements

Characteristics Requirements Test Method

Martindale abrasion

Fabric only (Dry)

153,600 revs/ 9,600 cycles (min)

ASTM D4966 1/

Bursting Strength Fabric Only

125 (min)

ASTM D3787

1/ As described in the test method; Martindale Tester; Pressure applied: 12 KPa; Visually examine specimens after each 3200 cycles; Abradant changed after each 3200 cycles.

Use Option 1 for evaluation; no hole appears.

3.2.9 Eyelets. The eyelets shall be invisible, plain type made of nickel plated brass or anodized aluminum. The shoes shall have five (5) pairs of eyelets. The eyelets shall be evenly spaced on each quarter. They shall be securely and uniformly clinched.

3.2.10 Laces. The laces shall be a good match to Heritage Walnut 567, round, nylon braid that is commercially used for this application. The lace tips shall have sufficient rigidity to perform their intended function. The length shall be sufficient to properly lace the shoe.

3.2.11 Heel nailing. The nails used for Type I shoes (conventional Goodyear welt) shall be steel, cut or wire type, suitable for inside heel nailing processes. The nails shall effectively secure the rubber heel to the shoe so that it does not separate or fall off after an extended period of wear.

3.2.12 Thread. The various commercial sewing threads used in the fitting operation shall be brown for the upper and black for the Goodyear welt outsole stitching. The color of the bobbin or looper thread may be a natural or brown. The upper fitting bobbin thread may match the color of the shoe lining. The physical properties of each thread (size, ply, twist, breaking strength, elongation) shall be selected to provide reliable shoe performance during the entire period of wear.

3.3 Labeling.

3.3.1 Marking, permanent identification. The Contractor shall permanently mark the correct

American sizes and widths, the contract number (Example: 04-D-1234), the Uniform

Quality Control Program certification number, age code and the company or brand name on the inside of the shoe on the interior of the tongue or quarter lining. The marking may be in the form of a label and shall be done in accordance with acceptable commercial practices, and it shall not reduce footwear functionality. The shoe shall contain a manufacturing tracking lot number and/or a born date. Unit packs will include Management Control

Number (MCN) or National Stock Number (NSN) and Universal Product Code (UPC) bar codes as specified in the contract. Each symbol must be human and scanner readable. All marking information shall be legible.

3.3.2 Certification label. Each pair of shoes shall have a hang label attached stating certification information as described in 5.6 (see 7.6). The certification label shall be attached to the shoes through the eyelets.

3.3.2.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label and in the permanent identification marking (see 3.3.1). The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.4 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.5 Toxicity. The finished material shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 5.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.5.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process that material shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.6 Workmanship. The shoes shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits (see 7.6).

3.7 Equal item. Prior to use of an "or equal" item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for subsequent approval or disapproval by the responsible military agency. If deemed necessary, the Government reserves the right to test the shoe in the field with the “or equal” component or end item at the contractor’s expense prior to approval.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph

23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS

5.1 Product conformance. Each pair of shoes provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this purchase description, conform to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract or purchase order. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract or purchase order.

5.2 Market acceptance. The shoes must have been sold to the commercial market or the

Government.

5.3 End item inspection procedures. Sampling for inspection shall be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes (see 7.2.2).

5.4 Visual examination. Each pair of shoes shall be examined for the defects that are listed in

Table II. The lot size shall be expressed in units of pair of shoes. The sample unit is one (1) pair of shoes. The inspection level and AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

Unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects visible from a normal inspection distance of 3-feet. Any shoes having these workmanship/quality defects shall be returned to the contractor for replacement.

TABLE II. Visual defects.

Examine Defect

Pairing Not properly mated; i.e., right and left not same size; variation in color or gloss in pairs

Color Not specified color; not uniform; any raw edge not stained to match upper leather

Finish Flaky, chipped, streaky, cracked or shows runs on uppers; any spot, stain or foreign matter

TABLE II. Visual defects – Continued

Examine Defect

Upper leather Not corrected or full grain, break of vamp or quarter greater than

No. 3 on SATRA break Scale 9. NOTE: Dress shoe leather showing a break pattern greater than No. 3 is loose, pipey, or flanky); grain surface embossed or printed; rough or course grain;

brand, open scar, flesh cut, deep scratch pronounced vein

Workmanship Any material defects, distorted parts or poor workmanship

Lining Wrinkled or excessive fullness

Stitching, upper Any open seam; loose tension resulting in a loosely secured seam;

tight tension resulting in puckering or cutting of leather;

thread ends not trimmed throughout shoe; needle hole or chews

Welting Overlapped or open space exceeding 1/16-inch between ends of welting, skipped or broken stitch on welting

Heel-attaching

(Type I)

Heel not finished square or smooth; checked heel, i.e., separation between heel and outsole; wrong size or type heel; any heel or nail missing; any heel nail not properly clinched

Edge-making Edge trimmed (Type I) into sole stitching; edge not trimmed square or trimming irregular

One-piece sole/ heel unit

(Type II)

Edge not trimmed square or trimming irregular; surface crack, visible hole or void on edge surface of foam structure or on bottom foam skin surface; separation between midsole and sole/heel unit, imbedded foreign matter, surface blister, hole, void in molded sole/heel unit, imitation storm welt not uniform or consistent around shoe, separation between molded sole/ heel unit and upper at mold nip line

Counter Counter rolled, curled, not filling counter pocket area, or not properly positioned

Box toe Crooked, long or short

Eyelets Not securely clinched, material not as specified

Insole Any protruding point of tack, staple or nail on insole forward of heel breast or in heel seat area

Slip-in cushion insole Missing. Not correct size or configuration

Marking Identification information; missing, incomplete, incorrect, not legible

5.5 Toxicity test. When required (see 7.6), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of the studies indicate the shoes are not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the

Modified Draize Procedure (see 7.2.4). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.5) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required.

5.6 Certification. When the shoes are purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a label incorporating certification number assigned. In addition, the label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

“This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD 19022 as specified by the Program Executive Office - Soldier and was produced under

Certificate No. from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.”

“Q3 2007 or 03/2007” (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007)

5.7 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Packaging. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 7.6).

7. NOTES.

7.1 Sources of Government documents.

7.1.1 Copies of Government documents are available on-line at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.

7.2 Sources of non-Government documents.

7.2.1 ASTM Standards are available online at https://www.astm.org.

7.2.2 ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes are available online at https://asq.org.

7.2.3 SATRA Test methods are available online at testmethods@satra.co.uk.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.astm.org./ https://asq.org/ mailto:testmethods@satra.co.uk

7.2.4 INFORMA HEALTHCARE - Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure –

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor) are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.

7.3 Standard samples.. For access to standard samples address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

7.4 Intended use. The shoes are intended for wear by male personnel of the Army as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

7.5 Certificate of compliance. The contracting activity may select to accept a certificate of compliance for stated requirement.

7.6 Ordering data. The contract or purchase order should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Type, size and width required (see 2.1 and 2.2).

c. Labeling information (see 3.3).

d. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.5 and 5.5).

e. Regulatory requirements (see 4).

f. Product conformance provisions (see 5.1).

g. Acceptance criteria (see 5.7).

h. Packaging requirements (see 6.1).

7.7 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities

Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA

01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

7.8 Known sources.

7.8.1 Capps Shoe 90259 has been found to meet the requirements for Type I - Conventional

Goodyear welt with rubber outsole and heel.

7.8.2 Capps Shoe 90032 has been found to meet the requirements for Type II - Cement

Construction with polyurethane outsole and heel.

7.9 Color (Leather). Bright Brown Walnut Esquire is a commercial color which has been found to be an acceptable match for Heritage Walnut 567.

7.10 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Footwear

Heritage Walnut 567

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army-GL Army-GL

FIGURE 1. Shoe, Dress, Oxford, Men’s