GL-PD_19015_-_Trousers_Men's_-_Final_-_16Jul19.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD 19015

16 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MEN’S, DRESS, POLYESTER/WOOL

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for trousers intended to be worn by male military personnel of the Department of the Army.

1.2 Classification. The trousers will be one (1) type in the following sizes:

1.2.1 Sizes.

Schedule of sizes (waist - inches).

Waist

Size

Classic Fit Athletic Fit

Short Regular Long X-Long Short Regular Long X-Long

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CDDC) Soldier Center, 10 General

Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

GL-PD-19015

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-52108 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton and Synthetic or Synthetic

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD 19008 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/

(Copies of this document is available through the contracting activity).

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Test Method 117 - Colorfastness to: Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine Method

(Copies are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online from https://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available online from https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Fabric Defect Replica Scale

(Fabric Defect Replica Scales are available online at https://www.sdlatlas.com.) (see 6.7)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize

Principles and Methods of Toxicology , A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online at https://crcpress.com.)

https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/ https://www.sdlatlas.com/ https://crcpress.com/

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally, or bio-based preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The trousers are a dress type with a sewn-on waistband with hook and eye closure, a

French fly tab with slide fastener, straight on side seam pockets, two back pockets and 3-inch back darts. The left back pocket has a buttonhole tab and button. The trousers have seven (7) 1-3/4-inches finished wide belt loops for sizes up to and including 37 and eight (8) belt loops for sizes 38 and up

(see Figure 1). The inside of the waistband has a rubberized non-slip tape. The leg front crease shall be treated with a permanent silicone adhesive bead. The trousers shall be unhemmed. (See Figures 1, 2 and 3).

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall conform to Class 1 of GL-PD

19008. The color shall be Heritage Taupe 565, or as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.4.2 Lining and pocketing. The material for right fly lining, crotch pieces, side pocket stays and side pockets shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except there shall be a minimum of 35% cotton with the remainder polyester. The color for pocketing shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.4.3 Interlining. The material for interlining the left fly, fly extension and waistband shall be a fusible conforming to Type I or IV, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4 Waistband curtain.

3.4.4.1 Premade curtain. The premade waistband curtain shall consist of 1/2-inch rubberized gripper attached to a bias strip and stabilized with 1-1/4-inch wide wigam. The finished width of curtain shall be 1-1/2 inch. Rubberized gripper shall be chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the bias strip. The width of gripper component shall be 1-1/2-inches and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturer’s standard procedure for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item.

3.4.4.2 Alternate curtain.

3.4.4.2.1 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the alternate waistband stabilizer shall be non-rollover type cloth conforming to Type I of A-A-52108.

3.4.4.2.2 Waistband lower zone elastic material. The lower zone of the waistband shall be a one

(1) inch wide stretchable elastic material of the same color as the pocketing material. The top portion of this zone shall include a rubberized, griping surface measuring 1/2-inch wide to hold the shirt in place.

3.4.4.2.3 Rubberized waistband lining. The material for the rubberized waistband lining shall consist of two (2) rows of rubber material woven into a base of 100 percent polyester webbing.

Each row shall consist of heat resistant rubber compound yarns. The two (2) rows of rubber yarns shall be 3/8-inch (nominal) distance apart. The finished waistband lining material shall be tan or white color, 7/8 (± 1/16)-inch wide with selvaged, non-fraying edges. The rubberized waistband lining material shall meet the requirements in Table I and shall show no visual evidence of flaking, decomposition, cracking, or increased stiffness when tested in accordance with 4.7.1.

TABLE I. Waistband material requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Colorfastness

Dry heat (3 exposures) at 400oF (max.)

3.0

Drycleaning (3 cycles) 3.0

Steam press (2 cycles) No visual degradation

Dimensional stability (warp and filling), percent (max.) 2.0

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be non-separating, nonreversible, with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Type I, Style 4 or 5 of A-A-55634. The tape shall be 100% polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material. The component parts of the slide fastener shall be a good match to the basic material (see

3.4.1) or the color of the coil may be clear.

3.5.2 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband shall be Universal Fastener Inc., Elite

Brand # 8 hook with # 8 hook plate and # 85 eye with #85 eye plate, steel zinc plated components, or equal. Prior to the use of an “or equal” item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval.

3.5.3 Buttons. The buttons for the left back pocket and fly closure shall conform to Type I, Class 1, Style 4, 22 line, glossy finish of A-A-59994. The color shall be a good match to the basic

3.5.4 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester covered, Tex 36-45, 2 or 3 ply and for overedge stitching, Tex 31-35, 2 ply conforming to

A-A-50199 or equal. As an alternate, cotton thread conforming to Type I of A-A-52094 may be used. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.4.1 Automatic machine pocket thread. The thread for automatic machine pocket construction shall be Type III, Tex 50, 3-ply of A-A-52094 or equal. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material. The colorfastness requirements shall apply.

3.5.4.2 Automatic button sewing thread. If an automatic machine, which sews and shanks

(wraps) the buttons in one operation, simulating hand sewing is utilized, the thread shall be nylon in accordance with A-A-59826, Type III, Class A, Tex 135. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.5 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall be cotton, Tex size 210 conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198 or equal. The color for the gimp shall be a good match to the basic

3.6 Labels. Each trouser shall have a combination identification and care instruction label and a size label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/care label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The color of the labels shall be white and the printing shall be black. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the trousers.

3.6.1 Combination identification and care instructions label. The combination identification and care instruction label shall conform to Type V, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be positioned on the left front (as worn) pocket bag and shall be sewn down on all four (4), such that the stitching does not affect the ability to use the pocket. The printed label shall be facing the body. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY

2. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

3. Remove gloss marks at edges and seams with iron and damp cloth

4. PERMANENT CREASED - Press on same crease line with steam at 325(± 5)℉ or wool setting with steam

5. Roll press (without creasing)

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The size label shall be positioned above the right back pocket and the top edge of the size label shall be stitched to lower edge of waistband lining. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The printed label shall be facing the body. The size label shall include the waist size and length along with the letter “A” for athletic fit or letter “C” for classic fit to designate fit style. The size label shall include the National Stock Number (NSN).

For Classic fit trousers (Example): For Athletic fit trousers (Example):

34 R - C

XXX-XXXXX_XNSN

36 L - A

XXX-XXXXX_XNSN

3.6.3 Barcode label. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each pair of trousers shall have a bar code in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit Universal

Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the trousers when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the trousers.

3.6.4 Certification label. Each pair of trousers shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.9 (see 6.8). The certification label shall be positioned 1/2-inch below the combination label on the left front (as worn) pocket bag and shall be sewn down on all four (4) sides, such that the stitching does not affect the ability to use the pocket. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns, shall be furnished by the Government. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automation and manufacturing procedures, however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams. A 1-1/2 inch outlet is provided at the seat seam through the waistband and a 3/4-inch outlet from the crotch to the knee at inseam for back panel only, is outlined on the pattern. Front panel has seam allowances of 3/8-inch from crotch to leg opening.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from materials specified, in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table II and III. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts – Classic fit

Materials Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut parts

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

Back PD19015C-BK 2

Fly facing PD19015C-FLY 1

Side pocket bearer PD19015C-SDPKT-BEAR 2

Side pocket facing PD19015C-SDPKT-FACE 2

Belt loop PD19015C-LOOP 1

Left waistband PD19015C-WB-LFT 1

Right waistband PD19015C-WB-RGT 1

Fly extension PD19015C-FLY-EXT 1

Back pocket bearer PD19015C-BKPKT-BR 2

Back pocket welt PD19015C-BKPKT-WELT 2

Lining and pocketing

(see 3.4.2)

Fly extension lining PD19015C-FLT-EXT-LIN 1

Side pocket bag PD19015C-SDPKT-BAG 2

Crotch piece PD19015C-CROTCH 2

Back pkt bag PD19015C-BKPKT 2

Side pkt stay PD19015C-SPKT-STAY 2

Interlining (see

3.4.3)

Fly interlining

Belt loop interlining

Left wb interlining

Right wb interlining

Fly extension interfacing

PD19015C-FLY INT

PD19015C-LOOP-INT

PD19015C-WB-LFT-INT

PD19015C-WB-RGT-INT

PD19015C-FLY-EXT-INT

Templates

Left curtain template

Right curtain template

PD19015C-WB-LFT-CURT-T

PD19015C-WB-RGT-CURT-T

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Athletic fit

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

Back PD19015A-BK 2

Fly facing PD19015A-FLY 1

Side pocket bearer PD19015A-SDPKT-BEAR 2

Side pocket facing PD19015A-SDPKT-FACE 2

Belt loop PD19015A-LOOP 1

Left waistband PD19015A-WB-LFT 1

Right waistband PD19015A-WB-RGT 1

Fly extension PD19015A-FLY-EXT 1

Back pocket bearer PD19015A-BKPKT-BR 2

Back pocket welt PD19015A-BKPKT-WELT 2

Lining and pocketing

(see 3.4.2)

Fly extension lining PD19015A-FLT-EXT-LIN 1

Side pocket bag PD19015A-SDPKT-BAG 2

Crotch piece PD19015A-CROTCH 2

Back pkt bag PD19015A-BKPKT 2

Side pkt stay PD19015A-SPKT-STAY 2

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Athletic fit - Continued

Interlining (see

3.4.3)

Fly interlining

Belt loop interlining

Left wb interlining

Right wb interlining

Fly extension interfacing

PD19015A-FLY INT

PD19015A-LOOP-INT

PD19015A-WB-LFT-INT

PD19015A-WB-RGT-INT

PD19015A-FLY-EXT-INT

Templates

Left curtain template

Right curtain template

PD19015A-WB-LFT-CURT-T

PD19015A-WB-RGT-CURT-T

3.9.1 Permanent creases. The trousers shall have permanent silicone creases (see 6.6). Each pair of trousers shall have a single continuous 1/16-inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead applied to the inside of the basic material in the center of each of the two (2) front prepressed leg creases to form permanent creases. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the bottom of the crotch-level to within 2-inches of the unfinished trouser bottom. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the creases at front and back parts of the legs. The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto face of material or increased stiffness. The permanent creases shall have a minimum rating of “3” when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures), at a maximum of 400°F, steam pressing (2 cycles), and drycleaning (3 cycles) when tested as specified with 4.7.1.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitching, seams and stitching shall conform to

ASTM D6193. All seams shall have 10-12 stitches per inch and all exposed front facing edges shall be covered with stitch type 502 or 503. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabrics. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

The trimming shall not exceed 1/16-inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged.

The width of overedging shall be 3/16 to 1/4-inch.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2-inch. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of

1/2-inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.5 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4-inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except on labels) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2-inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on

401 seaming may be repaired using 301 stitch type.

3.10.1.6 Bartacking. Bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2-inch long, unless otherwise specified.

Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose or tight stitching. Bartacking shall be correctly placed to reinforce points of strain as follows: Bartacks at side pocket openings shall extend beyond the outseams 1/16 to 1/8-inch; bartack all pockets at ends of pocket openings - the bartacks shall be perpendicular to the openings; bartack at base of fly at the junction of the crotch seam and fly. The bartack may be diagonal, in line with the fly stitching or may be horizontal and shall not extend beyond the crotch seam. The inside edges of the right and left flies shall be bartacked together.

3.10.1.7 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be the eyelet-end taper bar type, worked over gimp with not less than four (4) stitches at bar end (not counting the crossover stitch). The buttonhole shall finish with the purling on the outside of the trousers. The finished cut lengths shall be 5/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8-inch of the tack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric prior to stitching the buttonholes are prohibited.

3.10.2 Marking. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the trousers. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.10.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations.

Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.10.4 Seat seams. The seat seam shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet strain encountered in sitting or stooping. The waist shall be measured before the seat seam is joined to assure correct waist size. Seat seams shall be two single needle superimposed chain stitch.

Press crotch and seat seam open. Inseams shall meet within + 1/16-inch when seat seam is finished.

3.10.5 Alternate waistband curtain construction. The two (2) zone waistband curtain shall measure 2-3/4 (± 1/8) inches wide in the finished trousers. The waistband curtain is composed of three (3) different components (elasticized interlining (see 3.4.4.2.2), waistband lining (see

3.4.4.2.3), rubberized elastic (see 3.4.4.2.3) attached to the waistband fabric as follows (see Figure

3): The waistband lining fabric (see 3.4.4.2.3) is cut on a 45-degree bias and has a cut width of

2-inches. The top edge of the waistband lining is turned under 1/2-inch; the bottom edge is turned under 3/8-inch and stacked, raw edge to raw edge, on top of the rubberized elastic (see 3.4.4.2.3).

The elasticized interlining (see 3.4.4.1) is the bottom most layer and should be positioned so that it extends 1/8-inch past the top folded edge of the waistband lining. All three (3) layers are secured with a 401 edge stitch, 1/16-inch away from the folded edge of the waistband lining. To attach the waistband lining to the waistband, insert the top 3/8-inch of the waistband into the open side of the waistband curtain construction, between the waistband lining and the elasticized interlining. The waistband construction should be slightly stretched when sewn. The three (3) materials shall be secured by using a 304 zig zag stitch that goes through all layers and is offset 1/16-inch from the edge.

3.10.6 Fly. The ends of the flies shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall be smooth and flat without twists, puckers or excessive fullness when fastener is closed. The joining seam on the left fly assembly shall be edge stitched 1/16-inch from seam. The right fly shall have a 5/8-inch buttonhole.

3.10.7 Side pockets. The edges of the pocket openings shall not be distorted. The openings shall be aligned, uniform in length and shall measure 6-1/8 to 6-1/4-inches between tacks for all sizes. The pockets shall be stitched 1/16-inch from seam and then shall be topstitched 3/16 to

1/4-inch from edge (see Figure 2). Side pocket facing and bearer pieces shall be of the basic material. The left and right pocket openings shall not be out of alignment by more than 1/8-inch.

3.10.8 Back pockets. The back pockets shall be in alignment, uniform in width and depth and finish 5-3/4 to 6-1/4-inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings.

The pocket openings shall finish 5 (± 1/8)-inches for sizes 26 to 29 and 5-1/4 (± 1/8-inches long for sizes 30 and up. The welt shall finish 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide on each side. The pockets shall be raise stitched. The ends of pocket openings shall be securely tacked. The left back pocket shall have a buttonhole tab (see Figure 3).

3.10.9 Back pocket buttonhole tab. The buttonhole tab shall be cut from a piece of stripping to finish 1-1/4 (± 1/8-inches long and 5/16 to 3/8-inch wide when attached to the left back pocket.

Fold the stripping in half and abut the side edges forming a point. Bartack across the abutted edges at pointed end, catching the base of the triangle. Place a second bartack across the abutted edges, 5/8 (± 1/16) inch from the first tack, forming a slit buttonhole. The buttonhole tab shall be centered on left back pocket.

3.10.10 Belt loops. The trousers shall have seven (7) belt loops for sizes up to and including 37 and eight (8) belt loops for sizes 38 and higher. The loops shall be positioned as follows: one (1) on each front, as indicated by pattern; one (1) on each side seam with the front edge of loop positioned

1/8-inch from side seam; one (1) centered between side seam and seat seam; one (1) on seat seam;

the extra loop for larger sizes, on right front (as worn), 1-1/4 to 1-3/4-inches from right fly joining seam. The bottom of the belt loop shall be attached in the waistband seam and extend into the pant body a 1/4-inch and bartacked at not more than 1/4-inch below waist seam. The belt loop shall be folded over so top edge of the belt loop is bartacked no less than 1/8 inch from top edge of waistband. The belt loop shall finish 1-3/4 between bartack on top of waistband and stitching into seam on the bottom of waistband.

(see Figure 4).

3.10.11 Buttons. The buttons shall be securely sewn, shank wrapped and properly aligned with buttonholes. Hand sewn buttons shall be shank wrapped three (3) times and the ends of the thread shall be securely tacked with not less than two (2) stitches. Machine sewn buttons which are automatically shanked shall have a minimum of ten wraps with three (3) locking stitches. One (1) button shall be sewn on left waistband lining to correspond with fly buttonhole and one (1) button shall be sewn on left back pocket through pocket and facing to correspond to buttonhole tab.

3.10.12 Hook and eye. Position the hook on the center (1/8-inch off tolerance) of the left waistband and with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach hook and eye portions through a suitable reinforcement. Position the eye on the center of the right waistband, aligned with slide fastener scoops, to correspond to the hook on left waistband. When the hook and eye are engaged on the finished trousers, the closure shall not bulge, pucker, twist or pull.

3.10.13 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be positioned with the edge of the chain 5/8 inch from front edge at top, tapering to approximately 3/8 inch at bottom. The top of the slide fastener shall be no more than 1/4 inch below the finished waistband. The bottom stop shall be 1/8 inch above the fly notch, + 1/8 inch tolerance.

3.10.14. Back darts. Back darts shall be pressed flat towards center back seat seam. There shall be no visible puckering (dimples) at the end point of the dart.

3.10.15 Pressing. Press legs with seams matching at bottoms and knees. Legs shall be pressed individually. Press top of trouser completely. Pressing shall be performed by the use of a heated pressing iron or machine. All pressing impressions and glossy areas shall be removed.

Inseams shall be pressed open.

3.10.16 Cleaning. All loose threads shall be removed, all thread ends trimmed to 1/4-inch and all spots, stains and marking tickets removed.

3.11 Finished measurements. The trousers shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Table III for Classic fit sizes and Table IV for Athletic fit sizes.

TABLE III Finished measurements (inches) - Classic fit

Size Waist

1/

Hip

2/

Thigh

3/

Bottom

Hem 4/

Inseam 5/ Outseam 6/

Short Regular Long X-Long Short Regular Long X-Long

26C 28 33 24-3/4 17 -- 36 -- -- -- 46-1/2 -- --

28C 30 35 25 17-1/4 34 36 -- -- 44-1/4 46-3/4 -- --

29C 31 36 25-1/4 17-3/8 34 36 38 -- 44-3/8 46-7/8 49-3/8 --

30C 32 37 25-1/2 17-1/2 34 36 38 40 44-1/2 47 49-1/2 52

31C 33 38 25-3/4 17-5/8 34 36 38 -- 44-5/8 47-1/8 49-5/8 --

32C 34 39 26 17-3/4 34 36 38 40 44-3/4 47-1/4 49-3/4 52-1/4

33C 35 40 26-1/4 17-7/8 34 36 38 40 44-7/8 47-3/8 49-7/8 52-3/8

34C 36 41 26-1/2 18 34 36 38 40 45 47-1/2 50 52-1/2

35C 37 42 26-3/4 18-1/8 34 36 38 -- 45-1/8 47-5/8 50-1/8 --

36C 38 43 27 18-1/4 34 36 38 40 45-1/4 47-3/4 50-1/4 52-3/4

37C 39 44 27-1/4 18-3/8 34 36 38 -- 45-3/8 47-7/8 50-3/8 --

38C 40 45 27-1/2 18-1/2 34 36 38 40 45-1/2 48 50-1/2 53

39C 41 46 27-3/4 18-5/8 34 36 38 -- 45-5/8 48-1/8 50-5/8 --

40C 42 47 28 18-3/4 34 36 38 40 45-3/4 48-1/4 50-3/4 53-1/4

41C 43 48 28-1/4 18-7/8 34 36 38 -- 45-7/8 48-3/8 50-7/8 --

42C 44 49 28-1/2 19 -- 36 -- 40 -- 48-1/2 -- 53-1/2

44C 46 51 29 19-1/4 -- 36 38 40 -- 48-3/4 51-1/2 53-3/4

46C 48 53 29-1/2 19-1/2 -- 36 -- 40 -- 49 -- 54

Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

1/ Waist: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed and the waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Hip: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed, measure across trousers, one inch above fly bartack or 8-inches down center front seam from top of waistband, from folded edge to folded edge

3/ Thigh: Twice the measurement, with trouser leg flat and inseam at folded edge, place measuring tape down one inch from crotch seam and measure from inseam folded edge across leg to other folded edge

4/ Bottom hem: Measure along unhemmed bottom edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge; the measurement needs to be doubled to obtain the hem circumference measurement.

5/ Inseam: Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge.

6/ Outseam: Measure along outseam from bottom edge of waistband to unhemmed bottom edge.

TABLE IV Finished measurements (inches) - Athletic fit

Size Waist

1/

Hip

2/

Thigh

3/

Bottom

Hem 4/

Inseam 5/ Outseam 6/

Short Regular Long X-Long Short Regular Long X-Long

29A 31 37 25-3/4 17-3/8 -- 36 -- -- -- 46-7/8 -- --

30A 32 38 26 17-1/2 -- 36 38 40 -- 47 49-1/2 52

31A 33 39 26-1/4 17-5/8 -- 36 38 -- -- 47-1/8 49-5/8 --

32A 34 40 26-1/2 17-3/4 -- 36 38 40 -- 47-1/4 49-3/4 52-1/4

33A 35 41 26-3/4 17-7/8 34 36 38 40 44-7/8 47-3/8 49-7/8 52-3/8

34A 36 42 27 18 34 36 38 40 45 47-1/2 50 52-1/2

35A 37 43 27-1/4 18-1/8 34 36 38 -- 45-1/8 47-5/8 50-1/8 --

36A 38 44 27-1/2 18-1/4 34 36 38 40 45-1/4 47-3/4 50-1/4 52-3/4

37A 39 45 27-3/4 18-3/8 34 36 38 -- 45-3/8 47-7/8 50-3/8 --

38A 40 46 28 18-1/2 34 36 38 40 45-1/2 48 50-1/2 53

39A 41 47 28-1/4 18-5/8 34 36 38 -- 45-5/8 48-1/8 50-5/8 --

40A 42 48 28-1/2 18-3/4 34 36 38 40 45-3/4 48-1/4 50-3/4 53-1/4

41A 43 49 28-3/4 18-7/8 34 36 38 -- 45-7/8 48-3/8 50-7/8 --

42A 44 50 29 19 34 -- -- 40 46 -- -- 53-1/2

44A 46 52 29-1/2 19-1/4 34 -- 38 40 46-1/4 -- 51-1/4 53-3/4

46A 48 54 30 19-1/2 34 -- -- 40 46-1/2 -- -- 54

Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

1/ Waist: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed and the waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Hip: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed, measure across trousers, one inch above fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge

3/ Thigh: Twice the measurement, with trouser leg flat and inseam at folded edge, place measuring tape down one inch from crotch seam and measure from inseam folded edge across leg to other folded edge

4/ Bottom hem: Measure along unhemmed bottom edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge; the measurement needs to be doubled to obtain the hem circumference measurement.

5/ Inseam: Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge.

6/ Outseam: Measure along outseam from bottom edge of waistband to unhemmed bottom edge.

3.12 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.8. Chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.12.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process that cloth shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, finished dimensions, color, and finished defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.7.1.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.

through 4.5 and 4.6 and the testing in 4.7 and 4.8, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or purchase order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable documents (see 6.2).

4.5 End item visual examination. The trousers shall be visually examined for the defects listed in Table V. The lot shall be expressed in units of trousers. The sample unit is one (1)pair of trousers. All fabric and end item defects, which affect the appearance and serviceability of the finished trousers and are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored in accordance with Table V. Material defects are defined in ASTM D3990.

TABLE V. End item visual defects.

Examine

Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Material

Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar

Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C (see 2.3).

Slubs greater than fabric Defect Replica Scale Level D (see 2.3).

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part

Component color not as specified.

Component parts

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part, misplaced, or omitted

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Stitches, Seams, and Bartacks

Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted or irregular, not as specified, needle chew

Seam allowances differ than specified Seam allowances on joining parts not even or mismatched when seam is sewn together.

Irregular stitching, or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams.

Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured

Bartacks missing or not as specified

Needle perforations clearly visible on outside

Any part of shirt caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

Buttons Not specified type, size, or color

Misplaced, omitted, broken or defective

Not attached as specified

Button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness

Buttonholes

Any omitted, added, misplaced, ragged edges, caught in other stitching or component, not secured through proper layers of fabric, not serving intended purpose, broken stitches

Not specified size or type, finished cut length not as specified

Slide Fastener Slide fastener not as specified and not properly attached 117 Pockets Pocket twisted, curled or puckered, not constructed or stitched as specified or not well formed

Belt loops Belt loops not as specified, incorrect number and position 206 Back darts Not as specified and shows puckering (dimples) at the end point of the dart

Waistband Waistband not constructed as specified, twisted, puckered or not well formed

Bottom waistband seam uneven or puckered

Stitching below waistband visible by more than 1/16 inch

TABLE V. End item visual defects. - Continued

Examine

Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Seat seam Seat and inseam intersection not meeting within tolerance 122

Pressing Some or all pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable

Five (5) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8-inch or less or not removed

Odor affecting serviceability, any lint, dust or foreign matter not removed

Workmanship Distorted parts or poor workmanship 127 Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified

Bar code/ UPC code not visible or folded

Packaging Any trouser not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The trousers shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements specified in Tables III and IV. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one (1) pair of trousers. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The inspection level, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.7 Methods of inspection. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement document. (see 6.2).

4.7.1 Material component testing. The permanent creases and waistband materials shall be tested for the colorfastness and dimensional stability properties as listed in Table VI. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table VI shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width for the waistband components for all testing. The sample unit for the permanent silicone crease shall be three (3) samples of silicone creased trouser material each

24-inches in length. The lot size shall be as stated in the contract or purchase order. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet the requirement specified.

TABLE VI. Material and component test methods

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Colorfastness:

- Heat (dry) (3 exposures)

- Drycleaning (3 cycles)

- Steam pressing (2 cycles)

3.4.4, 3.5.6

AATCC 117 1/, 2/, 4/

AATCC 132 1/, 2/, 4/

3/, 4/

Dimensional stability, percent 3.4.4 AATCC 158

1/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

2/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

3/ Steam pressing shall be conducted by wetting the material with water and steam press at a temperature of 240℉ to 250℉ for one (1) minute and repeating one (1) more time and visually checking for degradation after each cycle.

4/ Samples shall be visually evaluated for evidence of flaking, decomposition, cracking, or increased stiffness.

4.8 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the cap or material is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.12) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.9 Certification. When the trousers are purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a label incorporating certification number assigned. In addition, the label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

"This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD 19015 as specified by the Program Executive Office - Soldier and was produced under Certificate No. from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.”

“Q3 2007 or 03/2007” (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007)

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DOD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point's packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the Military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are intended for wear by male personnel of the Army as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Size and length required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.12 and 4.8).

f. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL)(see 4.3).

g. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples. For access to samples and patterns drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Waistband curtain. A known source for an acceptable waistband curtain is available from

QST Industries, Inc. (http://www.qst.com.).

6.6 Permanent creasing. A guide for the permanent creasing procedure is as follows: After pressing the trouser crease apply the silicone resin in a fine bead to the inside of only the front creases of the trouser. The bead should be applied evenly and equally from top of crotch to within

2- inches of the unfinished trouser bottom. The bead of resin after application should be 1/16- inch

(nominal) in width and should follow the crease line exactly. Where resin misses the crease for any reason, it should be re-applied into the crease. No special drying or baking procedures are needed when using the silicone crease. The resin will quickly air-cure and no repressing after application is needed.

6.7 Fabric Defect Replica Scales are available for purchase from SDL Atlas. Contact Customer

Service 1-803-329-2110 (request item number is 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set.)

6.8 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities

Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

http://www.qst.com/

6.9 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Athletic

Classic

Gabardine

FIGURE 1. Trousers, Men’s

FIGURE 2. Side pocket

A. Stitch facing and bearer to pocket

B. Stitch pocket to front

C. Turn pocket and top stitch

D & E. Seamed and turned

F. Tack pocket opening to bearer

G. Finished pocket

FIGURE 3. Back pocket

A. Bearer on pocket.

B. Welt facing piece on outside of trousers.

C. Cut through welt piece and notch.

D. Welt piece turned inside.

E. Make welt.

F. Pocket pulled through and closed.

G. Pocket pulled through to inside and top stitched on sides.

H. Top pocket opening stitch through pocket and facing piece with buttonhole tab inserted.

FIGURE 4. Belt loop and waistband curtain.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army – GL Army - GL