GL-PD-19016_Coat_Men's_-_Final_-_19Jul19.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

INCH POUND

GL-PD 19016

17 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COAT, MEN’S, BELTED WITH BI-SWING

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a belted coat with bi-swing to be worn by male military personnel of the Department of the Army.

1.2 Classification. The coat will be in the following types and sizes:

1.2.1 Types.

Type I - Officer

Type II - Enlisted

1.2.2 Sizes.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the

Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CDDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene

Avenue, Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

Schedule of Sizes

Size Lengths for Classic Fit Lengths for Athletic Fit

X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long Regular Long X-Long

30 -- -- X -- -- -- -- --

31 -- -- X -- -- -- -- --

32 -- -- X -- -- -- -- --

33 -- -- X X -- -- -- --

34 X X X X -- -- -- --

35 X X X X X -- -- --

36 X X X X X -- -- --

37 X X X X X -- -- --

38 X X X X X -- -- --

39 X X X X X -- -- --

40 X X X X X X X X

41 X X X X X X X X

42 X X X X X X X X

43 -- X X X X X X X

44 -- X X X X X X X

45 -- X X X X X X X

46 -- X X X X X X X

47 -- X X X X X X X

48 -- X X X X X X X

49 -- X X X X X X X

50 -- X X X X X X X

51 -- X X X X X X X

52 -- X X X X X X X

53 -- X X X X X X X

54 -- X X X X X X X

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all the specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool

A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-55284 - Buckles, Brass

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-371 - Cotton Tubular Braid, Flat

MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile, Elastic

MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head

MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts

MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD-19007 - Cloth, Elastique, Polyester and Wool

GL-PD-19011 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

GL-PD-19013 - Braid, Textile (Flat)

GL-PD 19030 - Buckle, Coat

(Copies of these documents are available through the contracting activity).

THE INSTITUTE OF HERALDRY (TIOH)

TIOH Standard Metal Finish Chip Number 4.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.tioh.hqda.pentagon.mil.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 - AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness of Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine Method

(Copies are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY CONTROL (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1776/D1776M - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles

ASTM 3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available online from https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

https://www.tioh.hqda.pentagon.mil/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The design is a single-breasted coat, with peak lapels, front darts, and front waist seam, two (2) piece bi-swing back with center back vent, and a detachable waist belt with a removable buckle. The coat front closure has three (3) Army antique brass metal buttons with one

(1) plastic button at the waist seam. The coat has two (2) upper patch pockets with box pleat and scalloped flaps with small antique brass metal buttons, two (2) lower besom pockets with curved rectangular flaps and small antique brass metal buttons, and functional button down shoulder loops with decorative box stitch and small metal buttons. The coat is fully lined and contains one (1) inside breast pocket. Type I coats shall have officer braid included in the inside pocket for attachment to the sleeves during tailoring. The color shall be Heritage Green 564.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for coat shall conform to GL-PD-19007. The color shall be Heritage Green 564 or as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.4.2 Lining. The material for the lining shall be a polyester twill cloth conforming to Class

3 of GL-PD-19011. The color of the lining material shall be black.

3.4.3 Binding. The binding for the coat shall be cut on the bias of the same material as the coat lining (see 3.4.2). The width of the bias binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8-inch. The binding may be placed on rolls.

3.4.4 Fusible interlinings.

3.4.4.1 Small parts fusible interlining. The peaks of lapels, front facing, pocket flaps, top sleeve cap, under sleeve, sleeve hem, coat bottom hem, lapel notch reinforcement, and shoulder loops shall be a nonwoven fusible interlining conforming to either Type V or VI, Class 1, Style A or B; or Type VIII, Class 1, Style A, of MIL-C-44296 and he color shall be black or charcoal.

Any given coat shall incorporate the same small parts fusible material. As an alternate, a woven, lightweight fusible interlining conforming to Type I, Class 1, Style A of MIL-C-44296 may be used.

3.4.4.2 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat and side body fronts and front skirt and front facing shall conform to Type III, Class 1, Style C of MIL-C-44296 and the color shall be black or charcoal. Any given coat shall incorporate the same front fusible material.

3.4.5 Pocketing. The material for the inside chest pocket and lower hanging pockets, shall be polyester and cotton cloth matching the shade of the basic material or dyed black, conforming to Class 1 of GL-PD-19011 or equal, except that the nonfibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply.

3.4.6 Bias stay tapes. The tape for staying the front edges of the coat, armhole, shoulder, and pockets shall be made from natural, or dyed black polyester and cotton cloth conforming to Class

1 of GL-PD-19011, except that the nonfibrous material content shall not apply. The tape for staying the front edges of the coat shall be cross-cut, 1/2-inch wide, and the raw edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. The tape for staying the armhole, shoulder, and pockets shall be cut on the bias, 3/8-inch wide.

3.4.7 Collar and belt interlining. The material for interlining the collar and belt shall be cloth, buckram, cotton, natural color, conforming to Type I of A-A-50186, except that the shrinkage shall be tested in accordance with AATCC 158.

3.4.8 Undercollar material. The material shall be a wool flannel cloth conforming to

A-A-50067. As an alternate, the material may be a wool blend wool felt-fabric composite conforming to MIL-C-29137. The color shall be a good match to the basic material or as stated in the contract or purchase order.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Floating chest piece. The chest piece shall conform to Type XXII of MIL-C-15065, with medium weight horsehair.

3.5.2 Elastic. The elastic for the bi-swing shall be Type II, Class 1 in accordance with

MIL-W-5664. The width shall be 2-1/2-inches and the color shall be black.

3.5.3 Sleeve ornamentation (Type I only). The sleeve ornamentation braid shall be a 1/2-inch wide braid conforming to Type I of GL-PD-19013. The color shall be Olive Drab 568. The length of each piece of braid shall be 36 (±1/2)-inches and shall be sufficient to be used for both sleeves. This piece of braid shall be left unattached and placed in the inside chest pocket.

3.5.4 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064.

3.5.5 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064, except that the length shall be 16 to 16-1/2-inches for sizes 36 through 48 and 18 to 18-1/2-inches for sizes 50 and above. As an alternate, a continuous (on a roll) cut to require length sleeve-head may be used.

3.5.6 Stay tapes. The tapes for the bridle at the breakline of the coat and for staying the armhole shall be preshrunk cotton conforming to Type I of A-A-52071, except that the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. The tapes shall be 5/8-inch wide for bridle at breakline of coat and 1/4-inch wide for staying armhole. The 5/8-inch bridle tape may be dyed black, conforming to Class 3, and shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspiration equal to or better than a rating of “3-4” and it shall show colorfastness to crocking equal to or better than a rating of “3.5” when tested as specified in 4.6.1.

3.5.7 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be conform to Table I. Alternate thread requirements shall conform to Table II. All thread shall be non-staining and shall conform to requirements in A-A-50199 or A-A-59826. The thread color for all visible stitching shall be a good match to the basic material or as specified in the contract or purchase order.

TABLE I. Thread requirements.

Component area Thread specification Tex size Stitches per inch

Seaming and stitching A-A 50199, Type I or

Type II

40 8-10

Belt loops; bartacking ends of belt loops

A-A-50199, Type I or

Type II

36-45 10-14

Blindstitching, overedge stitching, and machine felling

A-A-50199, Type I or

Type II

31-35 8-10

Button sewing, hand and machine (except automatic sewing and shank type)

A-A-50199, Type I or

Type II

61-70 14-16

Tacking armhole and attaching sleeve-heads

A-A-50199, Type I or

Type II

61-70

TABLE II. Alternate thread requirements.

Component area Thread specification Tex size Stitches per inch

Hand or machine felling A-A-59826, Type IV 35 or 45 6-10/8-10

Buttonholes and bartacks A-A-59826, Type V 135

Machine stitching A-A-59826, Type VI 30, 90, or 24

Button sewing, machine

(except automatic button sewing and shank wrapping)

A-A-59826, Type I, II, or III

350, 400, or

3.5.7.1 Thread, basting. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade, bleached or unbleached cotton thread. As an alternate, the cotton-covered, polyester core thread (A-A-50199) used for seaming and stitching or the nylon thread (A-A-59826) used in hand or machine type felling may be used for those operations where the thread is required to be removed. When the soluble thread is used, any residue remaining in the coat after the drycleaning process shall be brushed off or removed.

3.5.7.2 Thread for automatic button sewing. If an automatic machine, which sews and shanks

(wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is utilized, the thread shall be nylon in accordance with A-A-59826, Type III, Class A, Tex 135.

3.5.7.3 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, soft finish or glazed finish, Tex 210, conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp thread shall be black.

3.5.8 Buttons

3.5.8.1 Uniform buttons. All decorative buttons shall conform to Type I, Style 2, Classes A or B of MIL-B-3461, except that the buttons shall be brass, oxidized, buffed relieved, and shall match TIOH Standard Metal Finish Chip Number 4. The three (3) buttons for the coat front shall be 36-ligne, hopper back and the buttons for the pockets and shoulder loops shall be a 25-ligne, hopper back.

3.5.8.2 Sewing hole button. The sewing hole button shall be a melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish conforming to to Type I, Class 1, Style 20, 34 ligne of A-A-59994 for the front coat. The color of the button shall be good match to the basic material or as specified in the contract.

3.5.8.3 Belt button. The belt button shall be a melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish conforming to Type I, Class 1, Style 15, 22-ligne of A-A-59994. The color of the button shall be good match to the basic material or as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.5.9 Rings. Rings shall be used to fasten buttons to the breast pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps and shall conform to MIL-B-3461.

3.5.10 Fastener, snap. The snap fastener for the belt shall be brass, black japanned finished, or black chemical finish in accordance with MIL-F-495, round or square style, rolled edge, size

1/0 sew-on type.

3.5.11 Belt buckle. The buckle shall conform to GL-PD 19030.

3.5.12 Hanger loop. The braid for the hanger loop shall be a cotton tubular braid, flat, 1/8 to

3/16-inch wide, conforming to Type III, Class 1 of MIL-B-371. The color shall be black and the finished braid shall meet the colorfastness properties of MIL-B-371.

3.6 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification and care instruction label and a size label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/care label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The color of the labels shall be white and the printing shall be black. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the coat.

3.6.1 Combination identification and care instructions label. The combination identification and care instruction label shall conform to Type V, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be sewn down on all four (4) and shall be positioned on the inside of the inner chest pocket. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The printed label shall be facing the body when worn. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY

2. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

3. Remove wrinkles or gloss marks at edges and seams with a steam iron or an iron and damp press cloth. Press/iron temperature with steam shall be

325 (± 5)o F on wool setting with steam.

4. Roll press (without creasing) sleeves and lapels.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.2 Size label. Each coat shall have a separate size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2, of MIL-DTL-32075 which shall be stitched to the inside center back at the collar seam. After the size designation, add the length indicated by XS, S, R, L, or XL and then add “C” for Classic fit or “A” for Athletic fit. The end of the stitching need not be tacked providing the stitching extends at least 1/2-inch beyond each end of the label. The stitching shall not be through the printing. The color of the label shall be white and the label shall indicate size, and National Stock Number

(NSN) as follows:

Coat (Example):

42 R-C

XXX-XXXXX_XNSN

3.6.3 Bar code label. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each coat shall have a bar code label in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSN’s by the Government. The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner.

The label’s location shall cause no damage to the coat.

3.6.4 Certification label. Each coat shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.8 (see 6.8). The certification label shall be sewn down on all four

(4) and shall be positioned on the inside of the inner chest pocket top of label 1/2-inch below the combination label and stitched on all four sides. Stitching shall not be through printing. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns, shall be furnished by the Government. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation and manufacturing procedures; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on visible parts of the coat is prohibited. The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise indicated, note important seam allowances include:

1/4-inch - Set front facing to front, set back vent, and make pocket flaps

3/16-inch - Turn in for top of back vent and making shoulder loops

5/16-inch - For darts, setting arm shield, set loops

1/2-inch - For sleeve front and back seams, the back lining bottom hem

3/4-inch - Join backs and join body to back

1-1/4 inches - For the coat bottom hem turn up and the vent lining hem

1-1/2 inches - For the front lining and side body lining bottom hem

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the coat shall be cut from materials, as specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table III and IV:

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Classic Fit

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut

Parts

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

UPPER LEFT FRONT PD19016C-FR-LFT-UP 1

UPPER RIGHT FRONT PD19016C-FR-RGT-UP 1

LOWER LEFT FRONT PD19016C-FR-LFT-LWR 1

LOWER RIGHT FRONT PD19016C-FR-RGT-LWR 1

RIGHT FACING PD19016C-FR-RGT-FAC 1

LEFT FACING PD19016C-FR-LFT-FAC 1

SIDEBODY PD19016C-SIDEBODY 2

BACK LEFT PD19016C-BK-LFT 1

BACK RIGHT PD19016C-BK-RGT 1

TOP COLLAR PD19016C-CLLR-TOP 1

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Classic Fit - Continued

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

(cont’d)

UNDER SLEEVE PD19016C-SLV-UNDR 2

TOP SLEEVE PD19016C-SLV-TOP 2

SWEAT SHIELD PD19016C-SWEATSHIELD 2

SHOULDER LOOP PD19016C-SHLDR-LOOP 4

CHEST POCKET FLAP PD19016C-CHESTPKT-FLAP 2

CHEST PATCH POCKET PD19016C-CHESTPKT 2

LOWER POCKET FLAP PD19016C-LWRPKT-FLAP 2

LOWER POCKET WELT PD19016C-LWRPKT-WELT 4

BELT PD19016C-BELT 1

BELT LOOP PD19016C-BELT-LOOP 1

Lining cloth (see

3.4.2)

UPPER FRONT LINING PD19016C-FR-UP-LIN 2

LOWER FRONT LINING PD19016C-FR-LWR-LIN 2

SIDEBODY LINING PD19016C-SIDEBODY-LIN 2

RIGHT BACK LING PD19016C-BK-RGT-LIN 1

LEFT BACK LINING PD19016C-BK-LFT-LIN 1

TOPSLEEVE LINING PD19016C-SLV-TOP-LIN 2

UNDERSLEEVE LINING PD19016C-SLV-UNDR-LIN 2

LOWER FLAP LINING PD19016C-LWRPKT-FLAP-LIN 2

INSIDE POCKET WELT PD19016C-INPKT-WELT 4

Weft insertion fusible

(see 3.4.4)

UPPER LEFT FRONT

INTERLINING PD19016C-FR-LFT-UP-INT

UPPER RIGHT FRONT

INTERLINING PD19016C-FR-RGT-UP-INT

LOWER LEFT FRONT

INTERLINING PD19016C-FR-LFT-LWR-INT

LOWER RIGHT FRONT

INTERLINING PD19016C-FR-RGT-LWR-INT

LEFT FACING INTERLINING PD19016C-FT-LFT-FAC-INT 1

RIGHT FACING INTERLINING PD19016C-FT-RGT-FAC-INT 1

Non-woven fusible

(see 3.4.4)

TOP COLLAR INTERLINING PD19016C-CLLR-TOP-INT 1

CHEST PATCH POCKET

INTERLINING PD19016C-CHESTPKT-INT

CHEST POCKET FLAP

INTERLINING PD19016C-CHESTPKT-FLAP-INT

LOWER POCKET FLAP

INTERLINING PD19016C-LWRPKT-FLAP-INT

SHOULDER LOOP INTERLINING PD19016C-SHLDR-LOOP-INT 2

BACK HEM INTERLINING PD19016C-BK-HEM-INT 2

BACK VENT INTERLINING PD19016C-BK-VENT-INT 1

BELT INTERLINING PD19016C-BELT-INT 1

Felt/melton UNDERCOLLAR PD19016C-CLLR-UNDR 1

TABLE III. List of pattern parts – Classic Fit - Continued

Pocketing

(see 3.4.5)

CHEST POCKET FLAP FACING

CHEST PATCH POCKET FACING

INSIDE VERTICAL POCKET BAG1

INSIDE VERTICAL POCKET BAG2

OUTSIDE LOWER PKT BAG

PD19016C-CHESTPKT-FLAP-FAC

PD19016C-CHESTPKT-FAC

PD19016C-INPKT-BAG 1

PD19016C-INPKT-BAG 2

PD19016C-LWRPKT-BAG

Template LEFT LAPEL SHAPER PD19016C-SHAPR-LAPEL-LFT T

RIGHT LAPEL SHAPER PD19016C-SHAPER-LAPEL-RGT T

Marker BUTTON HOLE MARKER PD19016C-MRKR-BTTNHOLE N

BUTTON MARKER PD19016C-MRKR-BTTN N

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts – Athletic Fit.

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

UPPER LEFT FRONT PD19016A-FR-LFT-UP 1

UPPER RIGHT FRONT PD19016A-FR-RGT-UP 1

LOWER LEFT FRONT PD19016A-FR-LFT-LWR 1

LOWER RIGHT FRONT PD19016A-FR-RGT-LWR 1

RIGHT FACING PD19016A-FR-RGT-FAC 1

LEFT FACING PD19016A-FR-LFT-FAC 1

SIDEBODY PD19016A-SIDEBODY 2

BACK LEFT PD19016A-BK-LFT 1

BACK RIGHT PD19016A-BK-RGT 1

TOP COLLAR PD19016A-CLLR-TOP 1

UNDER SLEEVE PD19016A-SLV-UNDR 2

TOP SLEEVE PD19016A-SLV-TOP 2

SWEAT SHIELD PD19016A-SWEATSHIELD 2

SHOULDER LOOP PD19016A-SHLDR-LOOP 4

CHEST POCKET FLAP PD19016A-CHESTPKT-FLAP 2

CHEST PATCH POCKET PD19016A-CHESTPKT 2

LOWER POCKET FLAP PD19016A-LWRPKT-FLAP 2

LOWER POCKET WELT PD19016A-LWRPKT-WELT 4

BELT PD19016A-BELT 1

BELT LOOP PD19016A-BELT-LOOP 1

Lining cloth

(see 3.4.2)

UPPER FRONT LINING PD19016A-FR-UP-LIN 2

LOWER FRONT LINING PD19016A-FR-LWR-LIN 2

SIDEBODY LINING PD19016A-SIDEBODY-LIN 2

RIGHT BACK LING PD19016A-BK-RGT-LIN 1

LEFDT BACK LINING PD19016A-BK-LFT-LIN 1

TOPSLEEVE LINING PD19016A-SLV-TOP-LIN 2

UNDERSLEEVE LINING PD19016A-SLV-UNDR-LIN 2

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts – Athletic Fit. - Continued

Lining cloth

(see 3.4.2)

LOWER FLAP LINING PD19016A-LWRPKT-FLAP-LIN 2

INSIDE POCKET WELT PD19016A-INPKT-WELT 4

Weft insertion fusible

Interlining

(see 3.4.4)

UPPER LEFT FRONT INTERLINING PD19016A-FR-LFT-UP-INT 1

UPPER RIGHT FRONT

INTERLINING PD19016A-FR-RGT-UP-INT

LOWER LEFT FRONT

INTERLINING PD19016A-FR-LFT-LWR-INT

LOWER RIGHT FRONT

INTERLINING PD19016A-FR-RGT-LWR-INT

LEFT FACING INTERLINING PD19016A-FT-LFT-FAC-INT 1

RIGHT FACING INTERLINING PD19016A-FT-RGT-FAC-INT 1

Non-woven fusible

Interlining

(see 3.4.4)

TOP COLLAR INTERLINING PD19016A-CLLR-TOP-INT 1

CHEST PATCH POCKET

INTERLINING PD19016A-CHESTPKT-INT

CHEST POCKET FLAP

INTERLINING PD19016A-CHESTPKT-FLAP-INT

LOWER POCKET FLAP

INTERLINING PD19016A-LWRPKT-FLAP-INT

SHOULDER LOOP INTERLINING PD19016A-SHLDR-LOOP-INT 2

BACK HEM INTERLINING PD19016A-BK-HEM-INT 2

BACK VENT INTERLINING PD19016A-BK-VENT-INT 1

BELT INTERLINING PD19016A-BELT-INT 1

Felt/melton UNDERCOLLAR PD19016A-CLLR-UNDR 1

Pocketing

(see 3.4.5)

CHEST POCKET FLAP FACING PD19016A-CHESTPKT-FLAP-FAC 2

CHEST PATCH POCKET FACING PD19016A-CHESTPKT-FAC 2

INSIDE VERTICAL POCKET BAG1 PD19016A-INPKT-BAG 1 1

INSIDE VERTICAL POCKET BAG2 PD19016A-INPKT-BAG 2 1

OUTSIDE LOWER PKT BAG PD19016A-LWRPKT-BAG 2

Template LEFT LAPEL SHAPER PD19016A-SHAPR-LAPEL-LFT T

RIGHT LAPEL SHAPER PD19016A-SHAPER-LAPEL-RGT T

Marker BUTTON HOLE MARKER PD19016A-MRKR-BTTNHOLE N

BUTTON MARKER PD19016A-MRKR-BTTN N

3.9 End item dimensional stability and bonding strength of fusible interlinings.

3.9.1 Fusing press operation conditions. The fusing press shall be in accordance with manufacturer’s recommendations (see 4.7.1.1).

3.9.2 Dimensional stability to drycleaning and steam pressing. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 4.7.1.2, shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as specified in 4.7.1.3. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering, or delamination.

3.9.3 Fused state bonding strength. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 4.7.1.2 for small parts and fronts fusible material shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength (prior to dry cleaning) of 32 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction when tested as specified in 4.7.1.4, and a minimum bonding strength of 24 ounces or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three (3) dry cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.7.1.4.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. All stitches, seams, and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. The type of seam, stitching, and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table

IV. When two (2) or more methods of seams or stitch types are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn, so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Thread tension shall be maintained so there is no tight or loose stitching. Seams required to be worked out having a depth between the fold of 1/16-inch or more shall be considered a defect.

3.10.1.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches as specified in

Tables I and II.

3.10.1.3 Type 301 and 306 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except label, shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label and hand stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or needle thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.4 Repairs of Type 301 and 306 stitching. Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.10.1.5 Repairs of Type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack or blindstitching in the same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blindstitching. When repairing blindstitching, superimpose stitching 1/2-inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.10.1.6 Repairs of Type 401, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.4.a. and 3.10.1.4.b, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears.

Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching type 301.

3.10.1.7 Thread breaks and ends of seams. End of all seams and stitchings (except darts), when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4-inch. The ends of the continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch except on labels, where the overlap shall be not less than three stitches. The ends of the hand felling shall be tacked with not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2-inch. The thread ends of darts shall not be trimmed closer than 1/2-inch.

3.10.1.8 Bartacks. Bartacks shall measure 1/4 to 3/8-inch long, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.10.2 Marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew on type tickets.

c. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided that the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment, and wherever possible is covered by the seam allowance.

3.10.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component and end item conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations. Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.10.4 Coat fronts. The waist darts shall be properly tapered, pressed opened and flat, and shall finish without gathers, puckers or pleats. The upper and lower fronts shall be joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. A 1/4-inch wide stay tape shall be sewn on the upper front side along waistline seam 1/4-inch from the edge and caught. The tape shall be sewn with normal tension, not loose, or tight, and shall extend from front extension to edge of side panel. The tape may be sewn simultaneously in the joining seam of the waist; or the tape may be sewn to the upper fronts prior to joining the skirt front.

3.10.4.1 Floating chest piece fronts. The floating chest piece shall be positioned on underside of coat front in accordance with marks on the front fusible interlining and basted to interlining from top of breast flap, through patch pocket, along front dart seam to bottom of chest piece, to front of chest piece and along front of chest piece. The basting across shoulder shall allow room for setting shoulder pads and continue around armhole and down back of chest piece.

3.10.5.2 Bridle tape. The bridle tape shall be positioned adjacent to and 1/8-inch behind breakline of each lapel using the lapel notch as the starting reference point. The bridle tape shall be basted so that the center of bridle tape is placed on the edge of chest piece. The top of bridle tape shall extend sufficiently above lapel notch to permit catching in the top collar lapel notch stitching and to finish within 1 to 1-1/2-inches from bottom of lapel. The basting shall be even and smooth for a distance of 1-1/2 to 2-inches from lapel notch, then eased for a distance of 4 to

5-inches to work in chest fullness not less than 3/8-inch nor more than 1/2-inch, and the balance of the tape even and smooth. The tape and floating chest piece shall be stamped marked to assure amount of fullness. The bridle tape shall be blindstitched to interlining with three (3) rows of stitching, one (1) at the center, and one (1) on each edge of the tape.

3.10.4.3 Bias stay tapes. The bias stay tapes shall be 1/2-inch wide bias cut strips of pocketing and shall be attached along shoulder seams and armholes. The shoulder stay tape shall be stitched 1-1/4 (+1/4)-inches from neckline edge to within 5/8 (+1/8) -inch from armhole. The armhole stay tape shall be stitched from the side seam to 5/8 (+1/8) -inch from shoulder.

3.10.5 Lapels. After the bridle tapes are blind stitched, the left and right fronts of coat shall be pressed individually, on left and right coat chest pressing machine respectively, to conform to the shape of the body. The front edge of front panels below the breakline shall be pressed flat. The lapels, fronts, and bottom shall be marked, shaped, and trimmed using the lapel front and bottom shapers. The lapel shaper shall be position from lapel notch to the back edges of front shaper.

NOTE: Step on front shaper is 1/8-inch wider than step on forepart, thus giving cloth allowance for trimming at base of lapel. As an alternate, shaping of lapels, fronts, and trimming of bottom may be performed with a clicker machine using dies conforming to pattern shapers. NOTE:

When using dies, the left front must be dressed after the bottoms are shaped. The lapel shall finish with smooth edges and fully turned points.

3.10.6 Collar. The collar shall be uniform in appearance and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twisting, gathers, puckers, or raw edges (top and sides). The wool flannel cloth undercollar may use one or two-piece construction and the bottom raw edge of the undercollar may be over-edge stitched. The interlining shall be pad stitched to the undercollar with seven to eight rows of blindstitching with fullness between rows of blindstitching and the interlining shall not show after the collar is set. When the alternate felt-fabric composite is used for the undercollar it shall be one piece construction and collar interlining is not required. The undercollar shaper and stand marker shall be used for shape and breakline conformance. The top edge of top collar may be hand or machine felled and the corners and sides shall be felled by hand. The collar shall finish centered on the back seam and lie smooth with the fullness evenly distributed over the shoulder to conform to neck line. The left and right sides of the collar and lapels shall be symmetrical in appearance with uniform 1/4-inch topstitching, points, shape, and dimensions.

3.10.7 Coat back. The coat backs shall be joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall follow CB and SS notches as indicated on pattern.

3.10.7.1 Bi-swing back. The bi-swing pleats shall be joined and pressed and topstitched at

1/8-inch from waist to shoulder. The inverted parts of the pleats should be stitched together 1/8-inch from the fold. The 1/8-inch edgestitch should continue along the full length of the pleat. The pleat shall be secured with a bartack 1/4-inch up from the waist. The 2-1/2-inch wide strip of elastic shall be placed 1/2-inch above the curved part of bi-swing pleat from left to right side and tacked to each side of pleat 1/8-inch from the finished seam. The elastic and back assembly shall lay flat without twists, puckers or fullness. The lower part of pleat shall be secured by stitching the pleat only, the stitching shall not be visible on the outside of the coat.

3.10.7.2 Back vent. The back vent shall be stitched in accordance with the pattern and secured at critical vent areas. The right vent lining and left vent shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, gathers or pleats. The top of the vent shall be topstitched starting1/8-inch beyond center back seam following the angle of the top edge of pleat and finish 1/8-inch beyond edge of vent.

3.10.8 Shoulder loops. The shoulder loops shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished shoulder loop shaper. The loop shall finish 2-1/4 (±1/8) inches wide at armhole end tapering to 1-1/2 (±1/8)-inches at the pointed end. The top stitching shall be 1/4-inch from the edge. Decorative box stitch shall be topstitched on shoulder loop only, between topstitched edges of the loop. Diagonal cross stitches should be 2-5/8- inches long and shall intersect at 1-inch from the armhole seam. A 1-1/2 (±1/8)-inch long topstitch should be stitched at 2” from armhole seams and shall be parallel to armhole seamline.

Set the loop: Wide part of loop at shoulder armhole joint: 3/4 (±1/8)-inch towards back from the shoulder and armhole joint seam; center point of the narrow part of loop 3/8 (± 1/16)-inch in front of shoulder neckline. Shoulder loop shall remain smooth and flat.

3.10.9 Pockets and pocket flaps.

3.10.9.1 Upper patch pockets. The patch pockets shall conform to the finished pocket shaper, be uniform in appearance, and lie flat and smooth without twists, puckers or raw edges. The binding shall have no raw edges showing on the outer side and be caught in the fabric, or the top edge of the pocket area may be over-edge stitched. Top flap of the upper pockets should be topstitched to pocket patch on side seam facing side of patch pocket only. Center front facing side of flap should be tacked to the patch pocket at the bottom of the flap only with 1 (one) tack

Dimensions for the top patch pockets as in Table VII.

3.10.9.2 Lower welt pockets. Ends of pocket shall be securely bartacked at each end of pocket opening, the width of the double piping or cord edges, through cords, front, and pocket facing.

The finished length of the pocket opening shall be as follows:

Sizes 30-33 5-1/4-inch opening

Sizes 34-37 6-1/8-inch opening

Sizes 38-54 6-1/2-inch opening

3.10.9.3 Pocket flaps. The pocket flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The flaps shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished pocket flap shaper. The seamed edges, the corners and points of the flaps shall be well worked out and the lining shall not be visible on the outside of the flaps.

After the top flap is turned over pocket opening, the flap shall be top stitched 1/4-inch vertically tacked at each top end of the flap with a 3/8 (±1/16) inch running tack, positioned 1/16-inch from the top edge of the flap.

3.10.9.4 Inside vertical double welt pocket. The inside vertical double welt pocket shall have an opening of 5-1/2 (±3/16)-inches by 1/2-inch in height for all Types (see Figure 6).

3.10.10 Sleeves. The sleeves shall be uniform in width and shall be pressed smooth and flat without gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The sleeves shall be uniformly set with fullness at front and back armhole distributed without pleats or puckers and properly balanced. Sleeve may be rolled pressed prior to hanging to facilitate check on balance of sleeve during sleeve setting operation. The linings and interlining shall not be short or tight at bottom of sleeves. Sleeve bottom opening shall be fused with 7-inch wide non-woven interfacing (3.4.4.1). Sleeve opening at bottom shall be finished unhemmed, with sleeve shell and lining separate and not attached.

3.10.11 Armhole. A 1/4-inch tape shall be attached around armhole from a point 3/4-inch from shoulder seam on back to 1-inch above * notch on fronts, holding tape taut. The tape may extend 3/4 to 1-inch over bias cut strip of pocketing cloth front, provided no extra tautness is placed above front notch of armhole. The sleeve lining may be stitched to the armhole on the inside from forearm seam of sleeve to the back arm seam across undersleeve. The armhole seam pressing shall not stretch or distort the armhole.

3.10.12 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall be placed between interlining and chest piece and tacked in position to chest piece.

3.10.13 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be the eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, worked over gimp with the ends of gimp pulled through to underside. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be tacked by hand or machine the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching and the gimp.

All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8-inch of the bartack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric, prior to stitching the buttonholes, is prohibited.

3.10.13.1 Coat front buttonholes. The top front buttonhole shall be positioned in horizontal alignment with center of eyelets in breast pocket flaps, and the bottom buttonhole shall be positioned on the waist seam. The remaining two (2) buttonholes shall be evenly spaced between top and bottom buttonholes. (Or the front buttonholes shall be positioned in accordance with the marking on the pattern).The inside edge of the eyelet shall be 5/8 to 3/4-inch from the finished edge of the coat. The cut of the finished buttonhole after tacking shall measure not less than

1-inch and not more than 1-1/8-inches.

3.10.13.2 Shoulder loop buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be centered on the narrow end of each loop in accordance with the pattern. The purling of the buttonholes shall be on the outside of the shoulder loops. The cut of the finished buttonhole after tacking shall measure not less than

5/8-inch or more than 3/4-inch.

3.10.13.3 Flap buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be positioned vertically and centered in each flap with the inside edge of the eyelet 3/8 to 1/2-inch from the point of flap. The pocket flap buttonholes shall only be cut on the eyelet portion of the buttonhole and the gimp shall be caught in the bar. Rings shall be used to attach a button to the pocket flaps.

3.10.14 Button placement and attachment. All buttons shall be positioned correctly and properly engage with its buttonhole. All buttons sewn by hand shall be backstitched with not less than two (2) stitches and the ends of the thread shall be hidden.

3.10.14.1 Coat front buttons. The four (4) 36-ligne buttons and one (1) 34-ligne button on the right front of coat as indicated by patterns, shall be marked to correspond with buttonholes on left front. Buttons shall be placed 1-5/8 to 1-7/8-inches from front edge of coat and shall be in vertical alignment. Each 36-ligne button shall be securely sewn through all plies of material with the eagle in an upright position and shall. The 34-ligne sewing hole button shall be sewn at the waist mark on the right front through all plies and shank wrap.

3.10.14.2 Shoulder loop buttons. Each 25-ligne button on each shoulder shall be marked to correspond with its buttonhole so that when engaged the loop lies flat without bulging or twisting.

Each button shall be placed with the spread wings of the eagle in line with shoulder seam, and the head in an upright position toward the back of the coat. The rim of the button shall be 1/4 (±1/8) inch from collar edge.

3.10.14.3 Pocket flap buttons. Each pocket flap shall have a 25-ligne button placed with the eagle in an upright position and the hopper back placed through the cut eyelet end of the buttonhole and secured with a rings.

3.10.15 Hemline. The bottom hemline shall be turned up as indicated by patterns, matching lengths of vent opening, and blind stitched. Lining shall be turned back and blind stitched to coat bottom hem (all around). When the coat is closed the length of right front edge shall be 3/8-inch shorter than the hem of the left side such that the right hem is not visible.

3.10.16 Belt and belt loops

3.10.16.1 Belt. The belt shall be made of two (2) plies of basic material and interlined with cotton buckram. The belt shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, pleats, gathers, puckers or raw edges. The pointed end of the belt shall be well formed with the turn-in edges securely caught in the stitching and the straight end shall be over-edge stitched. The finished width of the belt shall be 1-3/4 (+ 1/16, -1/8)-inches and finished length of the belt for each size coat shall be as shown in Table IX.

3.10.16.2 Belt buttonhole and button. The buttonhole for the buckle end shall be correctly positioned horizontally, midway between upper and lower finished edges of the belt, and with the center of the buttonhole 1 (±1/8)-inch from the over-edge stitched end. The purling of the straight type buttonhole shall be on the outside of the belt and shall be made to fit a 20-ligne sewing hole button. The ends of the buttonhole shall be securely tacked and cut 5/8-inch long. The button for the buckle end shall properly engage buttonhole in buckle end and shall be securely sewn through all plies of material so that the edge of turn back will not show when button is engaged with buttonhole. The snap fasteners shall be securely attached to the belt. The stud part of the snap fastener shall be placed on the inside pointed end of the belt 1/2 to 5/8-inch from the point and shall be securely sewn and not catch the outer part of the belt. The socket part of the snap fastener shall be engaged with the stud part for attachment during tailoring.

3.10.16.3 Belt loops. The belt loops shall be cut in accordance with the pattern. The raw edges shall be joined with a covering stitch, to finish 5/8-inch wide. The top stitching shall be 1/8-inch from finished edge and be uniform in stitch length and distance from edge. Each loop shall be cut

3 inches long with end turned under to finish 2-1/8 (±1/8)-inches from top to bottom folded edges

(see figure 9). The side belt loops shall be positioned 1/4-inch in from the back end of the lower flap and abut the top of lower flap. The belt loop keeper shall be positioned 1/4-inch in from front end of lower flap on left side of coat. The finished belt loops shall be uniform in width and shall finish smooth and flat without pleats, gathers, puckers or other distortion.

3.10.17 Finishing. Edges, lapel points, and corners shall be uniformly worked out. The blind stitching of the turn-up at bottom shall not show through the outer side. The lower front edges shall close flat and smooth, without rolling outward.

3.10.17 Lining. Lining shall be turned back and blind stitched to coat bottom hem.

3.10.19 Pressing. All pressing operations shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for those coats. Any additional under-pressing to facilitate manufacture is permissible. The coat shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions. The collar shall be pressed on collar machine stretching outer edge of collar over shoulder area when required. The lapel and collar seam shall be checked with the finished lapel shaper for the proper width. The top of sleeves shall be blocked and pressed having a rolled effect at front and back. The assembled coat front shall be pressed from the waist to the top edge, on a suitable type heated pressing machine, to shrink and shape the fronts to eliminate the excess fullness of the chest.

3.10.20 Cleaning. All basting threads shall be removed and all ends of stitching shall be trimmed and loose threads removed from the coats. All spots, stains, and shade or size markings shall be removed without damage to the material.

3.10.21 Measurements. The finished measurements of the coat shall conform to the measurements in Tables V, VI, VII, VIII and IX. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

Table V. Finished measurements, Classic Fit – inches

Size Chest

1/

Waist

2/

Sweep

3/

Across

Shoulder

4/

Bicep

5/

Back Length

6/

Sleeve Length

7/

X-S

Short

Short Reg Long X-

Long

X-

Short

Short Reg Long X-

Long

31 33 30 37 16 13-1/4 28-3/4 29-3/4 30-3/4 31-5/8 32-5/8 34-3/8 35-3/8 36-3/8 37-3/8 39-3/8

32 34 31 38 16-1/4 13-1/2 28-7/8 29-7/8 30-7/8 31-7/8 32-7/8 34-1/2 35-1/2 36-1/2 37-1/2 38-1/2

33 35 32 39 16-1/2 13-3/4 29 30 31 32 33 34-5/8 35-5/8 36-5/8 37-5/8 38-5/8

34 36 33 40 16-3/4 14 29-1/8 30-1/8 31-1/8 32-1/8 33-1/8 34-3/4 35-3/4 36-3/4 37-3/4 38-3/4

35 37 34 41 17 14-1/4 29-1/4 30-1/4 31-1/4 32-1/4 33-1/4 34-7/8 35-7/8 36-7/8 37-7/8 38-7/8

36 38 35 42 17-1/4 14-1/2 29-3/8 30-3/8 31-3/8 32-3/8 33-3/8 35 36 37 38 39

37 39 36 43 17-1/2 14 -3/4 29-1/2 30-1/2 31-1/2 32-1/2 33-1/2 35-1/8 36-1/8 37-1/8 38-1/8 39-1/8

38 40 37 44 17-3/4 15 29-5/8 30-5/8 31-5/8 32-5/8 33-5/8 35-1/4 36-1/4 37-1/4 38-1/4 39-1/4

39 41 38 45 18 15-1/4 29-3/4 30-3/4 31-3/4 32-3/4 33-3/4 35-3/8 36-3/8 37-3/8 38-3/8 39-3/8

40 42 39 46 18-1/4 15-1/2 29-7/8 30-7/8 31-7/8 32-7/8 33-7/8 35-1/2 36-1/2 37-1/2 38-1/2 39-1/2

41 43 40 47 18-1/2 15-3/4 30 31 32 33 34 35-5/8 36-5/8 37-5/8 38-5/8 39-5/8

42 44 41 48 18 3/4 16 30-1/8 31-1/8 32-1/8 33-1/8 34-1/8 35-3/4 36-3/4 37-3/4 38-3/4 39-3/4

43 45 42 49 19 16-1/4 30-1/4 31-1/4 32-1/4 33-1/4 34-1/4 35-7/8 36-7/8 37-7/8 38-7/8 39-7/8

44 46 43 50 19-1/4 16-1/2 30-3/8 31-3/8 32-3/8 33-3/8 34-3/8 36 37 38 39 40

45 47 44 51 19-1/2 16-3/4 30 -1/2 31-1/2 32-1/2 33-1/2 34-1/2 36-1/8 37-1/8 38-1/8 39-1/8 40-1/8

46 48 45 52 19-3/4 17 30 -5/8 31-5/8 32-5/8 33-5/8 34-5/8 36-1/4 37-1/4 38-1/4 39-1/4 40-1/4

47 49 46 53 20 17 -1/4 30 -1/2 31-3/4 32-3/4 33-3/4 34-3/4 36-3/8 37-3/8 38-3/8 39-3/8…