GL-PD_19018_-_Slacks_Women's-_Final_-_16Jul19.pdf

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-19018

16 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SLACKS, WOMEN’S, DRESS

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for slacks to be worn by female military personnel of the Department of the Army

1.2 Classification. The slacks will be one (1) type in the following sizes.

1.2.1 Sizes.

Schedule of sizes

Size Junior Misses Women’s

Petite

(P)

Regular

(R)

Tall

(T)

Petite

(P)

Regular

(R)

Tall

(T)

Petite

(P)

Regular

(R)

Tall

(T)

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CDDC) Soldier Center, 10 General

Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760. ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton Buttonhole

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

A-A-52108 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton and Synthetic or Synthetic

A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC)

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at http://www.ftc.gov.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ http://www.ftc.gov/

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD 19008 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool

(Copies of documents are available through the contracting activity).

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 – Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 – Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Test Method 117 - Colorfastness to: Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:

Machine Method

(Copies are available online at http://www.aatcc.org/.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online from http://www.asq.org/.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available online from https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(Fabric Defect Replica Scales are available online at https://www.sdlatlas.com/.) (see 6.7) http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/ https://www.sdlatlas.com/

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize

Principles and Methods of Toxicology , A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online at https://crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally, or biobased preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally, or biobased preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The slacks are a dress type with a sewn-on three (3) piece shaped waistband with hook and eye closure, a French fly tab with slide fastener, quarter top side pockets, hidden identification/coin pocket and four (4) 3-inch back waist darts. The slacks have five (5) belt loops for sizes 12 and under and seven (7) belt loops for size 14 and up. The inside of the waistband has a rubberized non-slip tape. The leg front creases shall be treated with a permanent silicone adhesive bead. The slacks shall be unhemmed. (See Figures 1 through 3).

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the slacks shall conform to Class 1 of GL-PD

19008. The color shall be Heritage Taupe 565, or as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.4.2 Lining and pocketing. The material for fly extension lining, side pockets and identification (ID)/coin pocket shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106, except there shall be a minimum of 35% cotton with the remainder polyester. The color for pocketing shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.4.3 Interlining. The material for interlining the right fly, fly extension and waistband shall be a fusible interlining conforming to Type I or IV, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296.

3.4.4 Waistband curtain.

3.4.4.1 Premade curtain. The premade waistband curtain shall consist of 1/2-inch rubberized gripper attached to a bias strip and stabilized with 1-1/4-inch wide wigam.

https://crcpress.com/

Rubberized gripper shall be chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the bias strip. The width of gripper component shall be 1-1/2-inches and shall not shrink more than

2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturer’s standard procedure for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item.

3.4.4.2 Alternate curtain.

3.4.4.2.1 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the alternate waistband stabilizer shall be non-rollover type cloth conforming to Type I of A-A-52108.

3.4.4.2.2 Waistband lower zone elastic material. The lower zone of the waistband shall be a one (1) inch wide stretchable elastic material of the same color as the pocketing material. The top portion of this zone shall include a rubberized, griping surface measuring 1/2-inch wide to hold the shirt in place.

3.4.4.2.3 Rubberized waistband lining. The material for the rubberized waistband lining shall consist of two (2) rows of rubber material woven into a base of 100 percent polyester webbing (see 6.5). Each row shall consist of heat resistant rubber compound yarns. The two (2) rows of rubber yarns shall be 3/8-inch (nominal) distance apart. The finished waistband lining material shall be tan or white color, 7/8 (± 1/16)-inch wide with selvaged, non-fraying edges (see

6.5). The rubberized waistband lining material shall meet the requirements in Table I and shall show no visual evidence of flaking, decomposition, cracking, or increased stiffness when tested in accordance with 4.7.1.

TABLE I. Waistband material requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Colorfastness

Dry heat (3 exposures) at 400oF (max.)

3.0

Drycleaning (3 cycles) 3.0

Steam press (2 cycles) No visual degradation

Dimensional stability (warp and filling), percent (max.) 2.0

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be non-separating, nonreversible, with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Type I, Style 4 or 5 of A-A-55634. The tape shall be 100% polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material. The component parts of the slide fastener shall be a good match to the basic material (see 3.4.1) or the color of the coil may be clear.

3.5.2 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for the waistband shall be Universal Fastener Inc., Elite Brand #8 hook with #8 hook plate and #85 eye with #85 eye plate, steel zinc plated components or equal. Prior to the use of an “or equal” item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval.

3.5.3 Button. The button for the fly closure shall conform to Type I, Class 1, Style 4, 22 line, glossy finish of A-A-59994. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.4 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be polyester core, cotton or polyester covered, Tex 36-45, 2 or 3 ply and for over-edge stitching, Tex 31-35, 2 ply conforming to A-A-50199 or equal. As an alternate, cotton thread conforming to Type I of

A-A-52094 may be used. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.4.1 Automatic machine pocket thread. The thread for automatic machine pocket construction shall be Type III, Tex 50, 3-ply of A-A-52094 or equal. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material. The colorfastness requirements shall apply.

3.5.4.2 Automatic button sewing thread. If an automatic machine, which sews and shanks

(wraps) the buttons in one operation, simulating hand sewing is utilized, the thread shall be nylon in accordance with A-A-59826, Type III, Class A, Tex 135. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.5.5 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall be cotton, Tex 210, conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198 or equal. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6 Labels. Each pair of slacks shall have a combination identification and care instruction label and a size label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/care label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The color of the labels shall be white and the printing shall be black. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the slacks.

3.6.1 Combination identification and care instructions label. The combination identification and care instruction label shall conform to Type V, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be positioned on the left front (as worn) pocket bag and shall be sewn down on all four (4), such that the stitching does not affect the ability to use the pocket. The printed label shall be facing the body. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions

1. DRY CLEAN ONLY

2. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

3. Remove gloss marks at edges and seams with iron and damp cloth

4. PERMANENT CREASED - Press on same crease line with steam at 325(± 5)℉ or wool setting with steam

5. Roll press (without creasing)

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The size label shall be positioned at above the right back pocket and the top edge of the size label shall be stitched to lower edge of waistband lining. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The printed label shall be facing the body. The size label shall include the size along with the letter “J” for Junior, letter “M” for Misses or “W” for Women’s to designate fit style followed by the letter

“P” for Petite, “R” for Regular or “T” for Tall to identify length. The size label shall include the

National Stock Number (NSN).

For Women’s fit slacks (Example): For Junior fit slacks (Example):

12 WR

XXX-XXXXX_XNSN

12 JP

XXX-XXXXX_XNSN

3.6.3 Barcode label. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each pair of slacks shall have a bar code in accordance with Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initial

“UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the slacks when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner.

The label’s location shall cause no damage to the slacks.

3.6.4 Certification label. Each pair of slacks shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.9 (see 6.8). The certification label shall be positioned 1/2- inch below the combination label on the left front (as worn) pocket bag and shall be sewn down on all four (4) sides, such that the stitching does not affect the ability to use the pocket. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractors working patterns, shall be furnished by the Government. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures; however the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

The patterns provide a 3/8-inch seam allowance for joining the outseams, closing the side pockets, the waist seam and the top of the waistband seam for front rise attachments; 1/4-inch seam allowance for the fly extension and the fly extension floating lining pieces. A 1-1/2-inch outlet is provided at the seat seam through the waistband and a 3/4-inch outlet from the crotch to the knee at inseam for back panel only, is outlined on the pattern. Front panel has seam allowances of 3/8-inch from crotch to leg opening. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on visible parts of the slacks is prohibited.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the slacks shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with the number of part required as shown in Table II. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature Pattern abbreviation Cut parts

Basic material

(see 3.4.1)

Front PD19018-FR 2

Back PD19018-BK 2

Fly facing PD19018-FLY 1

Coin pocket facing PD19018-PKT-COIN-FAC 1

Side pocket bearer PD19018-SDPKT-BEAR 2

Side pocket facing PD19018-SDPKT-FACE 2

Belt loop PD19018- LOOP 1

Left waistband PD19018-WB-LFT 1

Right waistband PD19018-WB-RGT 1

Back waistband PD190180WB-BK 1

Fly extension PD19018-FLY-EXT 1

Lining

(see 3.4.2)

Fly extension lining PD19018-FLY-EXT-LIN 1

Coin pocket PD19018-PKT-COIN 1

Side pocket bag PD19018-SDPKT-BAG 2

Interlining

(see 3.4.3)

Belt loop interlining PD19018-LOOP-INT 1

Fly interlining PD19018-FLY-INT 1

Left wb interlining PD19018-WB-LFT-INT 1

Right wb interlining PD19018-WB-RGT-INT 1

Fly Extension interlining

Back waistband

PD19018-FLY-EXT-INT

PD19018-WB-BK-INT

Templates Left curtain template PD19018-WB-LFT-CURT-T --

Right curtain template

Back Curtain

PD19018-WB-RGT-CURT-T

PD19018-BK-CUR

3.9 Permanent creases. The slacks shall have permanent silicone creases (see 6.6).

Each pair of slacks shall have a single continuous 1/16-inch (nominal) silicone adhesive non-staining bead applied to the inside of the basic material in the center of each of the two (2) front prepressed leg creases to form permanent creases. Each bead shall be applied evenly and equally from the bottom of the crotch-level to within 2-inches of the unfinished slacks bottom. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the creases at front and back parts of the legs. The finished permanent creases shall show no evidence of flaking, decomposition, failure to retain creases, cracking, staining, strike back onto face of material or increased stiffness. The permanent creases shall have a minimum rating of “3” when evaluated for permanent crease resistance to dry heat (3 exposures), at a maximum of 400°F; steam pressing, and drycleaning (3 cycles) when tested as specified in 4.7.1.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitching, seams and stitchings shall conform to

ASTM D6193. All seams shall have 10-12 stitches per inch and all exposed front facing edges shall be covered with stitch type 502 or 503. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabrics.

The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16-inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged. The width of over-edging shall be 3/16 to 1/4-inch.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2-inch. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of

1/2-inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type

301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4-inch maximum length.

3.10.1.5 Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4-inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except on labels) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three (3) stitches. Thread breaks

(all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2-inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 seaming may be repaired using 301 stitch type.

3.10.1.7 Bartacking. Bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 -inch long, unless otherwise specified.

Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose or tight stitching. Bartacking shall be correctly placed to reinforce points of strain as follows: The ends of the quarter top pocket openings shall be bartacked 3/8-inch from the waistband, with the bartack parallel to the waistband and the bottom bartack shall be perpendicular to the outseam (Figure 3); vertical bartack at the beginning and end of ID/coin pocket opening; and bartack at base of fly at junction of the crotch seam and fly. The bartack may be diagonal in line with the fly stitching or may be horizontal and shall not extend beyond the crotch seam. The inside edges of the right and left flies shall be bartacked together.

3.10.1.6 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be the eyelet-end taper bar type, worked over gimp with not less than four (4) stitches at bar end (not counting the crossover stitch). The buttonhole shall finish with the purling on the outside of the slacks.The finished cut lengths shall be 5/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within

1/8-inch of the tack. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric prior to stitching the buttonholes are prohibited.

3.10.2 Marking. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the slacks. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.10.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations.

Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.10.4 Seat seam. The seat seam shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet strain encountered in sitting or stooping. The waist shall be measured before the seat seam is joined to assure correct waist size. Seat seams shall be two single needle superimposed chain stitch. Press crotch and seat seam open. Inseams shall meet within + 1/16-inch when seat seam is finished.

3.10.5 Alternate waistband curtain construction. The two (2) zone waistband curtain shall measure 2-3/4 (± 1/8) inches wide in the finished slacks. The waistband curtain is composed of three (3) different components: elasticized interlining (see 3.4.4.2.2), waistband lining (see

3.4.4.2.3), rubberized elastic (see 3.4.4.2.3) attached to the waistband fabric as follows (see

Figure 3). The waistband lining fabric (see 3.4.4.2.3) is cut on a 45-degree bias and has a cut width of 2-inches. The top edge of the waistband lining is turned under 1/2-inch; the bottom edge is turned under 3/8-inch and stacked, raw edge to raw edge, on top of the rubberized elastic (see

3.4.4.2.3). The elasticized interlining (see 3.4.4.2.2) is the bottom most layer and should be positioned so that it extends 1/8-inch past the top folded edge of the waistband lining. All three

(3) layers are secured with a 401 edge stitch, 1/16-inch away from the folded edge of the waistband lining. To attach the waistband lining to the waistband, insert the top 3/8-inch of the waistband into the open side of the waistband curtain construction, between the waistband lining and the elasticized interlining. The waistband construction should be slightly stretched when sewn. The three (3) materials shall be secured by using a 304 zig zag stitch that goes through all layers and is offset 1/16-inch from the edge.

3.10.6 Fly. The ends of the flies shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall be smooth and flat without twists, puckers or excessive fullness when fastener is closed. The joining seam on the left fly assembly shall be edge stitched 1/16-inch from seam. The left fly shall have a 5/8-inch buttonhole.

3.10.7 Quarter top side pockets. The slacks shall have quarter top side pockets. The openings shall be aligned, uniform in length, shall not be distorted, and shall measure 6-1/2

(+ 1/8)-inches between bartacks. There shall be a row of topstitching from bottom bartack to waistband. There shall be a row of edgestitching from the top bartack into the waistband-joining seam. There shall be no notching of the pocket underside beyond the width of the side seam allowance. The ends of the pocket openings shall be bartacked (see Figure 1).

3.10.8 Inseam identification (ID)/coin pocket. The ID/coin pocket opening shall not be distorted. The opening shall be aligned with the waistband seam and shall measure 4 (±1/4) inches in length. Pocket shall be placed as indicated on pattern piece. The pocket shall be stitched 1/16-inch from (underside) seam. The pocket shall be vertically bartacked at the beginning and end of pocket opening.

3.10.9 Belt loops. The slacks shall have five (5) belt loops for sizes 12 and under and seven

(7) belt loops for size 14 and higher. The loops shall be positioned as follows: one (1) on each front, as indicated by pattern; one (1) on each side seam with the front edge of loop positioned

1/8-inch from side seam; one (1) on seat seam. For sizes 14 and higher the belt loops shall be positioned one (1) on each front, as indicated by pattern; one (1) on each side seam with the front edge of loop positioned 1/8-inch from side seam; one (1) on seat seam and one (1) on each back dart. The bottom of the belt loop shall be attached in the waistband seam and extend into the pant body 1/4-inch and bartacked at not more than 1/4-inch below waist seam. The belt loop shall be folded over so top edge of the belt loop is bartacked no less than 1/8-inch from top edge of waistband. The belt loop shall finish 1-3/4-inches between bartack on top of waistband and stitching into seam on the bottom of waistband (see Figure 4).

3.10.10 Button. The button shall be securely sewn, shank wrapped and properly aligned with buttonhole. Hand sewn buttons shall be shank wrapped three (3) times and the ends of the thread shall be securely tacked with not less than two (2) stitches. Machine sewn buttons which are automatically shanked shall have a minimum of ten wraps with three (3) locking stitches.

One (1) button shall be sewn on right waistband lining to correspond with fly buttonhole.

3.10.11 Hook and eye. Position the hook on center (1/8-inch off tolerance) of the right waistband and with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach hook and eye portions through a suitable reinforcement. Position the eye on the center of the left waistband, aligned with slide fastener scoops, to correspond to the hook on right waistband.

When the hook and eye are engaged on the finished slacks, the closure shall not bulge, pucker, twist or pull.

3.10.12 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be positioned with the edge of the chain

5/8- inch from front edge at top, tapering to approximately 3/8-inch at bottom. The top of the slide fastener shall be no more than 1/4-inch below the finished waistband. The bottom stop shall be 1/8 inch above the fly notch, + 1/8-inch tolerance.

3.10.13 Back darts. The back darts shall be pressed flat towards center back seat seam. There shall be no visible puckering (dimples) at the end point of the dart. Length of the darts shall not be more than 3 (+ 1/8)-inches.

3.10.14 Pressing. Press legs with seams matching at bottoms and knees. Legs shall be pressed individually. Press top of slacks completely. Pressing shall be performed by the use of a heated pressing iron or machine. All pressing impressions and glossy areas shall be removed.

Inseams shall be pressed open.

3.10.15 Cleaning. All loose threads shall be removed. All thread ends trimmed to 1/4-inch and all spots, stains, and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.11 Finished measurements. The slacks shall conform to the finished measurements specified in

Table III.

TABLE III. Finished measurements (inches)

Size

Waist

1/

Hip 2/ Thigh 3/ Bottom

Hem

4/

Inseam 5/ Outseam 6/

Junior Misses Women Junior Misses Women Petite Regular Tall Petite Regular Tall

4 27 35 36 37 21-1/4 21-3/4 22-1/4 15 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 41-1/2 43-1/2 45-1/2

6 28 36 37 38 22 22-1/2 3 15-1/4 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 41-5/8 43-5/8 45-5/8

8 29 37 38 39 22-3/4 23-1/4 23-3/4 15-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 41-3/4 43-3/4 45-3/4

10 30-1/2 38-1/2 39-1/2 40-1/2 23-1/2 24 24-1/2 15-3/4 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 41-7/8 43-7/8 45-7/8

12 32 40 41 42 24-1/2 25 25-1/2 16 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 42 44 46

14 33-1/2 41-1/2 42-1/2 43-1/2 25-1/2 26 26-1/2 16-1/4 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 42-1/8 44-1/8 46-1/8

16 35-1/2 43-1/2 44-1/2 45-1/2 26-1/2 27 27-1/2 16-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 42-1/4 44-1/4 46-1/4

18 37-1/2 45-1/2 46-1/2 47-1/2 27-1/2 28 28-1/2 16-3/4 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 42-3/8 44-3/8 46-3/8

20 39-1/2 47-1/2 48-1/2 49-1/2 28-1/2 29 29-1/2 17 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2 42-1/2 44-1/2 46-1/2

22 41-1/2 49-1/2 50-1/2 51-1/2 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 17-1/4 -- 32-1/2 34-1/2 -- 44-5/8 46-5/8

24 43-1/2 51-1/2 52-1/2 53-1/2 -- 31 31-1/2 17-1/2 -- 32-1/2 34-1/2 -- 44-3/4 46-3/4

26 45-1/2 53-1/2 54-1/2 55-1/2 -- 32 32-1/2 17-3/4 -- 32-1/2 34-1/2 -- 44-7/8 46-7/8

Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

1/ Waist: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed and the waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Hip: Twice the measurement, with slide fastener closed, measure across trousers, one inch above fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge.

3/ Thigh: Twice the measurement, with slack leg flat and inseam at folded edge, place measuring tape down one inch from crotch seam and measure from inseam folded edge across leg to other folded edge.

4/ Bottom hem: Twice the measure along unhemmed bottom edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Inseam: Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge.

6/ Outseam: Measure along outseam from bottom edge of waistband to unhemmed bottom edge.

GL-PD 19018

3.12 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.8. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.12.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process that cloth shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished slacks shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, finished dimensions, color, finished defects, and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.7.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.

through 4.5 and 4.6 and testing in 4.7 and 4.8, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits (AQL) as specified in the contract and/or purchase order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see

6.2).

4.5 End item visual examination. The slacks shall be visually examined for the defects listed in Table IV. The lot shall be expressed in units of finished slacks. The sample unit is on pair of slacks. All fabric and end item defects, which affect the appearance and serviceability of the finished slacks and are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored in accordance with Table IV. Material defects are defined in ASTM D3990.

TABLE IV. End item visual defects.

Examine Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Material

Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar

Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C (see 2.3).

Slubs greater than fabric Defect Replica Scale Level D (see 2.3).

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part

Component color not as specified

Component parts

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part, misplaced, or omitted

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Stitches, Seams, and

Bartacks

Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted or irregular, not as specified, needle chew Seam allowances differ than specified

Seam allowances on joining parts not even or mismatched when seam is sewn together.

Irregular stitching, or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams.

Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured Bartacks missing or not as specified

Needle perforations clearly visible on outside

Any part of shirt caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

Buttons Not specified type, size, or color

Misplaced, omitted, broken or defective

Not attached as specified

Button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness

Buttonholes

Any omitted, added, misplaced, ragged edges, caught in other stitching or component, not secured through proper layers of fabric, not serving intended purpose, broken stitches

Not specified size or type, finished cut length not as specified

Slide Fastener Slide fastener not as specified and not properly attached 117

Pockets Pocket twisted, curled or puckered, not constructed or stitched as specified or not well formed

Belt loops Belt loops not as specified, incorrect number and position 206

Back darts Not as specified and shows puckering (dimples) at the end point of the dart

Waistband Waistband not constructed as specified, twisted, puckered or not well formed

Bottom waistband seam uneven or puckered

Stitching below waistband visible by more than 1/16 inch

TABLE IV. End item visual defects - Continued

Examine Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Seat seam Seat and inseam intersection not meeting within tolerance 122

Pressing Some or all pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable

Five (5) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8-inch or less or not removed

Odor affecting serviceability, any lint, dust or foreign matter not removed

Workmanship Distorted parts or poor workmanship 127

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified

Bar code/ UPC code not visible or folded

Packaging Any slacks not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The finished slacks shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements specified in Table III. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of slacks. The sample unit shall be one (1) pair of slacks. The inspection level, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.7 Methods of inspection.

4.7.1 Material component/end item testing. The permanent creases and waistband materials shall be tested for the colorfastness and dimensional stability properties as listed in TableV. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table V shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width for the waistband components for all testing.

The sample unit for the permanent silicone crease shall be three (3) samples of silicone creased trouser material each 24-inches in length. The lot size shall be as stated in the contract or purchase order. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet the requirement specified.

TABLE V. Material and component test methods

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Colorfastness:

- Heat (dry) (3 exposures)

- Drycleaning (3 cycles)

- Steam pressing (2 cycles)

3.4.4, 3.5.6

AATCC 117 1/, 2/, 4/

AATCC 132 1/, 2/, 4/

3/, 4/

Dimensional stability, percent 3.4.4 AATCC 158

1/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

2/ Rated using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

3/ Steam pressing shall be conducted by wetting the material with water and steam press at a temperature of 240℉ to 250℉ for one (1) minute and repeating one (1) more time and visually checking for degradation after each cycle.

4/ Samples shall be visually evaluated for evidence of flaking, decomposition, cracking, or increased stiffness.

4.8 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the cap or material is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.12) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

4.9 Certification. When the slacks are purchased individually or in lots, the supplier shall certify to the purchaser that the items have been made in accordance with the quality of material and components established by this purchase description and shall include a label incorporating certification number assigned. In addition, the label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued and placed at the bottom of the certification label. The label shall read as follows:

"This item is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of GL-PD 19018 as specified by the Program Executive Office - Soldier and was produced under Certificate No. from basic material and controlled components warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate.”

“Q3 2007 or 03/2007” (Examples for 3rd quarter 2007)

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DOD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory

Control Point's packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the Military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The slacks are intended for wear by female personnel of the Army as part of the Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Size and length required (see 1.2).

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. When toxicity testing is required (see 3.12 and 4.8).

f. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL)(see 4.3).

g. Inspection conditions (see 4.4).

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a pre-production sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard samples. For access to standard shade samples and government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Waistband curtain. A known source for an acceptable waistband curtain is available from QST Industries, Inc. (http://www.qst.com.).

6.6 Permanent creasing. A guide for the permanent creasing procedure is as follows: After pressing the slack crease apply the silicone resin in a fine bead to the inside of only the front creases of the slacks. The bead should be applied evenly and equally from the top of the crotch to within 2-inches of the unfinished slack bottom. The bead of resin after application should be

1/16-inch (nominal) in width and should follow the crease line exactly. Where resin misses the crease for any reason, it should be re-applied into the crease. No special drying or baking procedures are needed when using the silicone crease. The resin will quickly air-cure and no repressing after application is needed.

6.7 Fabric Defect Replica Scales. Replica sets are available for purchase from SDL Atlas.

Contact Customer Service 1-803-329-2110 (request item number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set).

6.8 Certification Procedures. For a copy of the US Army Uniform Quality Control Program

(UQCP) operating procedures please contact Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities

Development Command (CCDC) Soldier Center, 10 General Greene Avenue Natick, MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

6.9 Subject term (key word) listing.

Army Green Service Uniform (AGSU)

Gabardine http://www.qst.com/

Front View Side View Back View

FIGURE 1. Women’s Slacks.

FIGURE 2. Inseam ID/coin pocket.

FIGURE 3. Belt loop and waistband curtain.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Army – GL Army - GL