GL-PD_19014_-_Shirt,_Men's,_Dress_-_Final_-_16Jul19.pdf

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the Army, Combat Capabilities Development Command (CDDC) Soldier Center, 10 General

Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC.

INCH-POUND

GL-PD 19014

16 July 2019

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, MEN’S, DRESS

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the

Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for short and long sleeve shirts. The shirts are intended to be worn by male military personnel of the Department of the

Army.

1.2 Classification. The shirt will be available in the following types, styles, classes and sizes:

1.2.1 Types. The shirts are available in the following types:

Type I - Officer

Type II - Enlisted

1.2.2 Styles. The shirts are available in the following styles:

Style A - Short Sleeve

Style B - Long Sleeve

1.2.3 Classes. The shirts are available in the following classes:

Class 1 - 55/45% Polyester/Wool

Class 2 - 75/25% Polyester/Wool

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

1.2.4 Sizes. The shirts are available in the following sizes:

Schedule of Sizes for Classic Fit – Style A

Neck size

Style A

Short Sleeve

X-Short Short Regular Tall X-Tall

13-1/2 X X X -- --

14 X X X -- --

14-1/2 X X X X --

15 X X X X X

15-1/2 -- X X X X

16 -- X X X X

16-1/2 -- X X X X

17 -- X X X X

17-1/2 -- -- X X X

18 -- -- X X X

18-1/2 -- -- X X X

19 -- -- X X X

Schedule of Sizes for Classic Fit – Style B

Size Sleeve Length (inches)

29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT

13-1/2 X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- --

14 X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- --

14-1/2 X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X --

15 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

15-1/2 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X

16 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X 16-1/2 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X 17 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X 17-1/2 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X 18 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X 18-1/2 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X 19 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X

Schedule of Sizes for Athletic Fit – Style A size

Style A

Short Sleeve

X-Short Short Regular Tall X-Tall

15-1/2 -- X X X X

16 -- X X X X

16-1/2 -- X X X X

17 -- X X X X

17-1/2 -- -- X X X

18 -- -- X X X

18-1/2 -- -- X X X

19 -- -- X X X

19-1/2 -- -- -- X X

20 -- -- -- X X

Schedule of Sizes for Athletic Fit – Style B

Size Sleeve Length (inches)

29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT XS S R T XT

15-1/2 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X

16 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X 16-1/2 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X 17 -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X -- X X X X 17-1/2 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X 18 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X 18-1/2 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X 19 -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- -- X X X -- X X X X 19-1/2 -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X

20 -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X -- -- -- X X

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50135 - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

A-A-59989 - Thread, Polyester, Spun

A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

(Copies of these document are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

GL-PD 19009 - Cloth, Tropical: Plain Weave Polyester and Wool

GL-PD 19011 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

(Copies of these documents are available through the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 88B - Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home

Laundering

AATCC Test Method 135 - Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

AATCC Test Method 143 - Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home Laundering

AATCC Three Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas

AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for Evaluating Single- and Double-

Needle Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D747 - Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam

ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of

Fabric

ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

ASTM D6988 - Standard Guide for Determination of Thickness of Plastic Film

Test Specimens

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

SDL ATLAS

Part Number 402985 - Slub/Knot Replica Set

(Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110.)

https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test – Modified Draize Procedure -

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A. Wallace Hayes (editor)

(Copies are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The shirt shall be a short sleeve or long sleeve men’s dress design available in classic and athletic fit. The shirt shall have a double yoke with straight back and front seams, a convertible collar with full collar stand and shoulder loops (Type I only). The shirt shall have two (2) chest pockets consisting of patch pocket with button down top flap. The Style A shirts shall have a seven (7) button front closure, a convertible collar with full collar stand with button closure and hemmed short sleeves. The Style B shirts shall have a seven (7) button front closure, a convertible collar with full collar stand with button closure, and long sleeves with button placket, two (2) sleeve pleats, and a rounded edge cuff with two (2) buttons for adjustment. The number of buttons on the front closure, pocket flaps, sleeve placket, and cuffs shall be as specified. The top plies of the collar, collar stand, pocket flaps, and cuffs (Style B only) shall have a sewn-in or alternate fusible interlining. The shirt collars shall have collar stays attached to the under collar. The shirts shall have one (1) extra button sewn to the inside right side seam 4 (±

1/2)-inches up from the finished hem and shall be attached to the seam allowance only (see

Figures 1 and 2).

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Class 1. The basic material for the Class 1 shirt shall be 5.0 (± 0.20) oz./sq. yard, 55/45 polyester/wool, plain weave conforming to Class 1 of GL-PD-19009. The color shall be

Heritage Tan 566, unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.4.2 Class 2. The basic material for the Class 2 shirt shall be 5.0 (± 0.20) oz./sq. yard, 75/25 polyester/wool, plain weave conforming Class 2 of GL-PD 19009. The color shall be

Heritage Tan 566, unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order.

https://www.crcpress.com/

3.4.3 Lining. The material for the collar stand lining and the yoke lining shall be 100 percent polyester twill conforming to Class 2 of GL-PD 19011 or equal. The color of the material shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.4.4 Interlining. The interlining material for the collar, collar stand, pocket flaps, front facings, cuffs (Style B), and shoulder loops (Type I) shall be a blend of 50 percent polyester and

50 percent cotton conforming to requirements in Table I when tested in accordance with 4.7.1.

TABLE I. Interlining requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz./sq. yd. (max) 4

Weave Plain

Yarn per inch (min):

Warp 57

Filling 57

Breaking strength, lbs. (min):

Warp 85

Filling 72

Stiffness, inch-pounds :

Warp 0.0085 - 0.1125

Filling 0.00425 - 0.0575

Dimensional stability, after 3 launderings, percent (max):

Warp 2.4

Filling 2.0

3.4.4.1 Alternate interlinings.

3.4.4.1.1 Collar, collar stand, cuffs (Style B) and shoulder loops (Type I.). As an alternate, a fusible conforming to Type V, Class 2, Style B of MIL-C-44296 may be used. If automatic crease banding collar stand equipment is used, the fusible material shall be on a nonwoven, thermal bonded polyester substrate coated on both sides with a polyvinyl acetate co-polymer adhesive with a total minimum weight of 1.4 ounces per square yard or a woven 100 percent cotton substrate coated on both sides with the polyvinyl acetate with a total minimum weight of

1.8 ounces per square yard.

3.4.4.1.2 Pocket flap. As an alternate interlining, a polyester cloth conforming to A-A-50135 may be used, except the minimum weight shall be 3.0 ounces per square yard minimum and the fabric count shall have a minimum 51 end/inch.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type I, Style 24, Class 1, 20 ligne of A-A-59994.

The color of the buttons shall be a good match to Heritage Tan 566.

3.5.2 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall conform to the requirements in Table

II. Alternate thread requirements shall conform to Table III. All thread shall be non-staining and shall conform to requirements in A-A-50199 or A-A-59989, as specified. The thread color shall be a good match to the basic material.

TABLE II. Thread requirements.

Component area Specification Tex size Ply

Seaming and stitching A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 21-24 2

Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 21-24 2

TABLE III. Alternate thread requirements.

Component area Specification Tex size Ply

Pocket attachment, collar attachment, cuff assembly, collar stand assembly, hemming, and top stitching

A-A-50199, Type I or Type II 25-30 2

Seaming and stitching A-A-59989 45 2 or 3

Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-59989 25 2

3.5.3 Collar stays. The collar stays shall be made from a polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet. The thickness shall be 0.020 (± 0.001)-inch. The color shall be natural (clear or opaque).

Either both ends shall be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, or one (1) end shall be rounded and one (1) end tapered with the point rounded. The collar stays may be unslotted or slotted.

3.5.3.1 Unslotted stays. The unslotted stays shall measure 3/8 (± 1/16)-inch wide and

2-3/4 to 2-7/8-inches long.

3.5.3.2 Slotted stays. The slotted stays shall measure 3/8 (± 1/16)-inch wide and 2-3/4 to

2-7/8-inches long. The stay shall have two (2) slots 3/4 (± 1/16)-inch long centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/32-inch wide and spaced approximately equidistant across the width of the stay.

3.6 Labels. Each shirt shall have a combination identification and care instruction label and a size label conforming to MIL-DTL-32075. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for the identification/care label only. The font for the size label shall be 10 points. The color of the labels shall be white and the printing shall be black. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the shirt.

3.6.1 Combination identification and care instructions label. The combination identification and care instruction label shall conform to Type V, Class 15, of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be sewn down on all four (4) and shall be positioned on the outside lower right front (as worn) of shirt with bottom of label 3-1/4 (± 1/4)-inches from bottom of finished hem. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The label shall contain the item name, shade number, contractor’s name, contract number, fiber content, NSN and the following laundering instructions:

Laundering instructions:

1. Wash using soap or a mild detergent

a. For machine washing. Use permanent press cycle.

b. For hand washing. Do not wring or twist.

2. DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH, USE FABRIC SOFTENER OR COMMERCIAL

LAUNDER.

3. Remove from water before last spin cycle, shape and hang.

Touch up if required. Steam iron at low setting.

Or

3. DRY CLEAN

4. Use damp cloth for outside pressing

5. Remove gloss marks at edges and seams with iron and damp cloth

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.6.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The size label shall be positioned at the center back of the collar and shall be attached in the collar stand neck joining seam. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The printed label shall be facing the body. The size label for Style A shall include the neck size along with the letter “A” for athletic fit or letter “C” for classic fit, the body length (X-Short, Short, Regular, Tall or X-

Tall) and National Stock Number (NSN). The size label for Style B shall include the neck size along with the letter “A” for athletic fit or letter “C” for classic fit, the shirt sleeve length, the body length (X-Short, Short, Regular, Tall or X-Tall) and National Stock Number (NSN).

For Style A Shirt (Example): For Style B Shirt (Example):

15A -Tall

XXX-XXXXX-XNSN

15C - 34/45

XXX-XXXXX-XNSN

3.6.3 Barcode label/tag. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each shirt shall have a barcode label/tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit

Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned signed for all NSNs by the contracting activity.

The initial “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the shirt when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the shirt.

3.6.4 Certification label. Each shirt shall have a label attached stating certification information as described in 4.9 (see 6.8). The certification label shall be positioned on the lower right front 1/2-inch away from the combination label. The label shall be sewn down on all four

(4) sides. Stitching shall not be through printing. As an alternate, the certification label may be combined with the combination label.

3.6.4.1 Age code labeling. Each certification label shall have an age code for quarter and year certification was issued placed at the bottom of the certification label. The age code may be accomplished by direct printing, stamping or stenciling.

3.7 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns, shall be furnished by the Government. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate automation and manufacturing procedures; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. The patterns provide for an allowance of 3/8-inch for all seams, including the seam for joining the collar to body and setting the chest pockets. The seam for joining the collar, pocket flaps and the sleeve cuffs shall be 1/4-inch. Component parts shall be cut from the same piece (dye lot) of fabric. The use of drill holes on visible parts of the shirt is prohibited.

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the shirt shall be cut from the materials specified, in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Tables IV and V.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts - Types I and II, Styles A and B - Classic fit.

Material

Nomenclature

Pattern Abbreviation

Cut

Parts

Basic

Material

(see 3.4)

Left front - buttonhole side PD19014C-FR-LFT 1

Right front – button side PD19014C-FR-RGHT 1

Back PD19014C-BK 1

Back yoke PD19014C-BK-YOKE 1

Short sleeve (Style A)

Long sleeve (Style B)

Upper sleeve facing (Style B)

Lower sleeve facing (Style B)

Cuff (Style B)

PD19014C-SLV-SS

PD19014C-SLV-LS

PD19014C-SLV-LS-UPR-FAC

PD19014C-SLV-LS-LWR-FAC

PD19014C-SLV-LS-CUFF

Collar stand

Collar

Undercollar

Collar stay

Pocket

Pocket flap

Shoulder loop (Type I)

PD19014C-CLLR-STND

PD19014C-CLLR

PD19014C-CLLR-UNDR

PD19014C-CLLR-STAY

PD19014C-PKT

PD19014C-PKT-FLP

PD19014C-SHLDR-LOOP

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts - Types I and II, Styles A and B - Classic fit. - Continued

Parts

Lining

(see 3.4.3)

Collar stand lining

Back yoke lining

PD19014C-CLLR-STND-LIN

PD19014C-BK-YOKE-LIN

Interlining

(see 3.4.4)

Shoulder loop interlining (Type I)

Collar stand interlining

Collar interlining

Pocket flap interlining

Front left interlining

Front right interlining

Sleeve cuff interlining (Style B)

PD19014C-SHLDR-LOOP-INT

PD19014C-CLLR-STND-INT

PD19014C-CLLR-INT

PD19014C-PKT-FLP-INT

PD19014C-FR-LFT-INT

PD19014C-FR-RGHT-INT

PD19014C-SLV-LS-CUFF-INT

TABLE V. List of pattern parts – Types I and II, Styles A and B - Athletic fit.

Parts

Basic

Material

(see 3.4)

Left front - buttonhole side PD19014A-FR-LFT 1

Right front – button side PD19014A-FR-RGHT 1

Back PD19014A-BK 1

Back yoke PD19014A-BK-YOKE 1

Short sleeve (Style A)

Long sleeve (Style B)

Upper sleeve facing (Style B)

Lower sleeve facing (Style B)

Cuff (Style B)

Collar stand

Collar

Undercollar

Collar stay

Pocket

Pocket flap

Shoulder loop (Type I)

PD19014A-SLV-SS

PD19014A-SLV-LS

PD19014A-SLV-LS-UPR-FAC

PD19014A-SLV-LS-LWR-FAC

PD19014A-SLV-LS-CUFF

PD19014A-CLLR-STND

PD19014A-CLLR

PD19014A-CLLR-UNDR

PD19014A-CLLR-STAY

PD19014A-PKT

PD19014A-PKT-FLP

PD19014A-SHLDR-LOOP

Lining

(see 3.4.3)

Collar stand lining

Back yoke lining

PD19014A-CLLR-STND-LIN

PD19014A-BK-YOKE-LIN

Interlining

(see 3.4.4)

Shoulder loop interlining (Type I)

Collar stand interlining

Collar interlining

Pocket flap interlining

Front left interlining

Front right interlining

Sleeve cuff interlining (Style B)

PD19014A-SHLDR-LOOP-INT

PD19014A-CLLR-STND-INT

PD19014A-CLLR-INT

PD19014A-PKT-FLP-INT

PD19014A-FR-LFT-INT

PD19014A-FR-RGHT-INT

PD19014A-SLV-LS-CUFF-INT

3.9 End item seam and fabric appearance, bonding strength of fusible and adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays

3.9.1 Seam and fabric appearance rating. After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.7.3, the appearance rating of the seams and stitching and fabric shall be as specified in Table VI when tested as specified in 4.7.4.

TABLE VI Appearance ratings.

Part Minimum Average of 3 Observations 1/

Fabric overall 3.7

Fused collar edges 3.7

Fused shoulder loops 3.7

Fused pocket flaps 3.7

Pockets 3.7

Cuffs (Style B) 3.3

Armholes 3.3

Short Sleeve hems (Style A) 3.3

Underarm seams 3.3

Yoke 3.3

Side seams 3.3

Bottom hem 3.3

1/ No individual observation shall be lower than a rating of “3”.

3.9.2 Bonding strength and appearance of fusible. After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.7.2.2, it shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material. There shall be no “strike-through” of adhesive after fusing.

3.9.3 Ultrasonically fused collar stay resistance to laundering (where applicable). After the shirt has been laundered five (5) times in accordance with 4.7.2.2, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays. There shall be no delamination of any fused points.

3.10 Construction.

3.10.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193.

All seams shall have 12-14 stitches per inch and all exposed front facing edges shall be covered with stitch type 502 or 503. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The width of overedging shall be 3/16 to

1/4-inch. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the frayed edges of the fabric. All seams shall start and finish evenly. The trimming shall not exceed 1/16-inch. The edge and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged.

3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4-inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2-inch. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.10.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two (2)or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of

1/2-inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.10.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, 517, 518, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.2a and 3.10.1.2b. Type 301 stitching may be used in repairing type 401 stitching.

3.10.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4-inch maximum length.

3.10.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl or whip type and finished inside cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16-inches long. When purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of the shirt, except for the neck closure buttonhole which shall have the purling on the inside of the collar stand.. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8-inch of the tack.

3.10.3 Marking. The parts of the shirt shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except.

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices

b. Sew-on type tickets

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets

3.10.4 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used provided that the finished component conforms to the required size, dimensions and configurations.

Patterns may be altered to accommodate the use of automated equipment as specified in 3.8.

3.10.5 Fusing. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material. All fusibles shall be bonded per manufacturer’s recommended settings using electronic fusing press. Fusibles shall not be bonded with an iron.

3.10.6 Collar and collar stand. The collar shall be carefully joined in accordance with pattern notches without twists, puckers, or distortion to the collar. The collar shall have slotted, unslotted or ultrasonically fused collar stays. The collar points shall finish 3-1/8 (± 1/16)-inches in length and shall be of equal length. The collar shall be top stitched 1/4-inch from edge. The collar shall be joined to the collar stand with notches matching without twists, puckers or distortion to the collar or collar stand. The collar ends shall be centered at equal distances from the center of the shirt front and collar stand button extension shall be 1/2 (-0, +1/8)-inch. The collar and collar stand assembly shall be joined to the shirt in accordance with pattern notches without twist, puckers, or distortion to the collar stand or shirt. The collar stand shall be edge stitched 1/16 (+ 1/16, -0)-inch. The collar stand at center back of neck shall be 1-1/4 (± 1/8)-inches. When the alternate automatic collar stand creaser is used, the shape and size of the collar stand must conform to the pattern requirements specified in this document.

3.10.7 Shoulder loops (Type I). The shoulder loops shall finish smooth and flat and uniform in construction and placement. The shoulder loops shall measure 2 (± 1/8)-inches wide at the armhole seam tapering to a width of 1-1/2 (± 1/8)-inches at the pointed end and shall be top stitched 1/4 (± 1/16)-inch from the edge. Each shoulder loop shall have a clean cut horizontal buttonhole with the inside cut end of the buttonhole 3/8 to 1/2-inch from point of loop. Each shoulder loop shall be positioned with point of loop 1/4 (± 1/8)-inch in front of front yoke seam and the point shall finish 3/4 (± 1/8)-inch from neckline seam. The front edge of shoulder loop at armhole seam shall be 1 (± 1/8)-inch forward of front yoke seam. One

(1) button shall be sewn through a button stay reinforcement approximately 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch in front of front yoke seam on each shoulder to correspond with buttonhole in the shoulder loop.

When buttoned, each shoulder loop shall lay flat and taught without gaping.

3.10.8 Pockets. The pocket opening should be clean finished with 1/2-inch turnback in accordance with marks on pattern. The pocket hem shall be stitched 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch from folded hem edge. The pockets shall be positioned in accordance with pattern marks and edge stitched 1/8 (± 1/16)-inch. The pocket opening sides shall be reinforced with a topstitched triangle: 1/8 (±1/16)-inch for pocket opening and 5/8 (± 1/8)-inch for sides. The pocket depth at center for all sizes shall be 6 (± 1/16)-inches and the finished width for the pocket for sizes

13-13-1/2 shall be 5-1/4 (± 1/16)-inches for sizes 14-18 shall be 5-1/2 (± 1/16)-inches and for sizes 18-1/2 to 20 shall be 5-3/4 (± 1/16)-inches. One (1) button shall positioned in alignment to the flap buttonhole (3.10.11) and sewn through all pocket layers. The pockets shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size.

3.10.9 Pocket flaps. The scalloped pocket flaps shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size. Make one (1) vertical buttonhole in the center of each flap with the lower inside edge 3/8 to 1/2-inch from bottom edge of flap. The buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric with the purling on the outside and no loose stitching. The top stitching shall have uniform stitching 3/16 to 1/4-inches along the side and bottom edges. The distance between the top of pocket and the top folded flap edge on the finished shirt shall be in accordance with marks on the pattern.

Pocket flaps shall be properly centered over their corresponding pocket with side of flaps in vertical alignment with the pocket and in horizontal alignment with each other. Stitch pocket flap to shirt and fold flap along seam. Top stitch pocket flap with one (1) row of stitching 3/16 to 1/4 (+ 1/16)-inch from folded seam. The horizontal flap edges shall be backtacked for reinforcement 3/8 (+ 1/16)-inch through all layers. When automated equipment is used, an allowance of not more than 1/16-inch beyond pocket edges on each side is acceptable provided both sides of flap are equidistant from edge of corresponding pocket on both pockets.

3.10.10 Sleeves.

3.10.10.1 Short sleeves (Style A). Sleeve opening shall be clean finished with 1-inch topstitch on turnback hem. The sleeves may be hemmed only after seaming the sleeves.

3.10.10.2 Long sleeves and cuffs (Style B). Each long sleeve shall have a shirt sleeve button placket positioned in accordance with the pattern. The face side of the top placket shall finish 1

(± 1/16)-inches in width and the length shall be in accordance with the sleeve markings. The under placket strip shall finish 9/16 (± 1/16) inches in width. The sleeve shall have two (2) 3/8-inch deep pleats positioned in accordance with the patterns that fold towards the sleeve back.

The cuff shall finish smooth and flat without distortion and shall be uniform in shape and size.

The cuffs shall finish 2-1/2 (± 1/8)-inches wide and shall have curved lower corners. The cuff and sleeve opening joining seam should be 1/4 (+1/1, -0)-inch through all layers. The seam joining the sleeve and cuff shall be edge stitched 1/16 (+ 1/16, - 0)-inches through all layers.

The cuff side and bottom edges shall be top stitched 1/4 (± 1/16)-inches and shall start and terminate 1/2 (± 1/16)-inch from sleeve and cuff joining seam with a 1/4 (± 1/16)-inch back tack stitching. The cuff shall have a horizontal buttonhole 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch long in the center of each cuff with the inside cut end of the buttonhole 1/2 (± 1/8)-inch from the edge. The placket shall have vertical buttonhole centered evenly between the upper placket horizontal stitch line and the cuff. The purl side, if applicable, of the buttonholes shall face toward the outside of the cuff and sleeve placket. The cuffs shall have two (2) buttons for adjustment, the center of the first button shall be 1/2 to 5/8-inch from the front edge of cuff and the center of the second button shall be positioned 3/4 to 1-inch from the center of the first button. The buttons shall be centered in the width of the cuff to correspond with the buttonhole. One (1) button shall be positioned and sewn onto the inside placket strip and align with the sleeve placket buttonhole.

3.10.11 Front, buttonholes, and buttons. The left and right front closure shall be finished by folding edge in accordance with pattern marking (see 3.8.1). The shirt shall have seven (7) vertical buttonholes on the left front placket and one (1) horizontal buttonhole on the left collar stand positioned in accordance with the patterns (see 3.8.1). The top horizontal buttonhole shall be centered in the collar stand and front inside cut edge of buttonhole shall be 5/8 (±1/16)-inch from front edge of collar stand at neckline. The buttons shall correspond to the buttonholes and shall be in alignment with each other. The buttons shall be securely sewn through the finished right front and the center of the button shall be 5/8 (± 1/16)-inch from front edge of shirt. One

(1) extra button shall be placed at the bottom of the right front (on outside) approximately

1-1/2-inches from the bottom of the shirt, so as not to interfere with the combination identification and care instruction label (see 3.6.1).

3.10.12 Yoke. The finished yoke shall be without twist or puckers and shall show no fullness between plies of material.

3.10.13 Underarm seams. The side seams and sleeve seams shall all meet at the underarm and not be staggered by more than 1/8-inch. The left and right side seams and sleeve seams shall be sewn with the folded seam edge facing towards the shirt back.

3.10.14 Bottom hem. The shirt bottom hem shall finish 1/4 to 5/16-inch wide with the bottom raw edge of shirt turned under and the facings shall be caught in hem. The seams shall not be twisted. The hem shall finish smooth and flat without puckers or twists.

3.10.15 Pressing and closing shirt. The shirt shall have a finished press appearance. Side seams and sleeves should be pressed. If necessary, to achieve the required finished press appearance, touch-up fronts, backs, sleeves and bottom hems and collars before folding for packaging. The shirt shall be fully buttoned.

3.10.16 Cleaning. All loose thread shall be removed. All spots, stains and marking tickets shall be removed.

3.11 Finished measurements. The shirts shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Tables VII and VIII (see Figure 3).

TABLE VII. Finished measurements - Type I and II, Classic Fit.

Size Neck

1/

Chest (A)

2/

Waist (B)

3/

Sweep (C)

4/

Across

Shoulder

5/

Back Length (Style A and B) (D)

6/

Bicep (Style

B) (E) 7/

XS S R T XT

13-1/2 14 35 32-1/2 37 15-3/4 29 30 31 -- -- 15

14 14-1/2 37 34-1/2 39 16-1/4 29 30 31 -- -- 15-1/2

14-1/2 15 39 36-1/2 41 16-3/4 29 30 31 32 -- 16

15 15-1/2 41 38-1/2 43 17-1/4 29 30 31 32 33 16-1/2

15-1/2 16 43 40-1/2 45 17-3/4 -- 30 31 32 33 17

16 16-1/2 45 42-1/2 47 18-1/4 -- 30 31 32 33 17-1/2

16-1/2 17 47 44-1/2 49 18-3/4 -- 30 31 32 33 18

17 17-12 49 46-1/2 51 19-1/4 -- 30 31 32 33 18-1/2

17-1/2 18 51 48-1/2 53 19-3/4 -- -- 31 32 33 19

18 18-1/2 53 50-1/2 55 20-1/4 -- -- 31 32 33 19-1/2

18-1/2 19 55 52-1/2 57 20-3/4 -- -- 31 32 33 20

19 19-1/2 57 54-1/2 59 21-1/4 -- -- 31 32 33 20-1/2

Tol. ± 1/4 ± 3/4 ± 3/4 ± 3/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/4

Sleeve Length (Style A) (F) 8/ XS S R T XT

Measurement 10 (+ 1/4) 10-1/4 (+ 1/4) 10-1/2 (+ 1/4) 10-3/4 (+ 1/4) 11 (+ 1/4)

Sleeve Length (Style B) 9/ 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

Measurement 29-1/2 (+ 1/2) 31-1/2 (+ 1/2) 33-1/2 (+ 1/2) 35-1/2 (+ 1/2) 37-1/2 (+ 1/2) 39-1/2 (+ 1/2)

1/ Neck: Measurement taken from center of collar button to front cut-end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position.

2/ Chest: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, measure across from folded edge to folded edge at bottom of armhole seams.

3/ Waist: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, locate waist by measuring down from center back neck (bottom of collar) as specified and measure straight across on waist from folded edge to folded edge: 17-inches for X-Short; 18-inches for

Short; 19-inches for Regular; 20-inches for Tall and 21-inches for X-Tall.

4/ Sweep: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, measure sweep from bottom edge straight across from folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Across shoulder: With folded shirt laid flat, back panel facing up, catch armhole seams at armhole and side seams intersection, smooth fabric up towards shoulders to find shoulder points at armhole seam. Measure across back from shoulder point seam to shoulder point seam.

6/ Back length: Measurements taken at center back from bottom of collar stand joining seam to bottom of shirt.

7/ Bicep (Style B): Twice the measurement with sleeve flat, the bicep is located at 1” down along underarm seam, measure across sleeve perpendicular to underarm seam.

8/ Sleeve length (Style A): With shirt laid flat, back body panel up, folded and fabric smoothed, catch armhole seams at bottom, smooth fabric at armhole seams up to find shoulder points at armhole. Measure along sleeve outseam from top of sleeve’s shoulder point (sleeve head) to bottom of sleeve hem.

9/ Sleeve Length (Style B): Measure from center back neck at collar seam on a straight line to shoulder point and along outseam of sleeve to bottom of hem (3 point measurement).

TABLE VII. Finished measurements - Type I and II, Athletic Fit.

Size Neck

1/

Chest (A)

2/

Waist (B)

3/

Sweep (C)

4/

Across

5/

Back Length (Style A and B) (D)

6/

Bicep (Style

B) (E) 7/

XS S R T XT

15-1/2 16 44 38-1/2 45 18-1/4 -- 30 31 32 33 17-1/2

16 16-1/2 46 40-1/2 47 19-3/4 -- 30 31 32 33 18

16-1/2 17 48 42-1/2 49 19-1/4 -- 30 31 32 33 18-1/2

17 17-12 50 44-1/2 51 20-3/4 -- 30 31 32 33 19

17-1/2 18 52 46-1/2 53 20-1/4 -- -- 31 32 33 19-1/2

18 18-1/2 54 48-1/2 55 21-3/4 -- -- 31 32 33 20

18-1/2 19 56 50-1/2 57 21-1/4 -- -- 31 32 33 20-1/2

19 19-1/2 58 52-1/2 59 22-3/4 -- -- 31 32 33 21

19-1/2 20 60 54-1/2 61 22-1/4 -- -- -- 32 33 21-1/2

20 20-1/2 62 56-1/2 63 23-3/4 -- -- -- 32 33 22

Tol. ± 1/4 ± 3/4 ± 3/4 ± 3/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/2 ± 1/4

Sleeve Length (Style A) (F) 8/ XS S R T XT

Measurement 10 (+ 1/4) 10-1/4 (+ 1/4) 10-1/2 (+ 1/4) 10-3/4 (+ 1/4) 11 (+ 1/4)

Sleeve Length (Style B) 9/ 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38/39

Measurement 29-1/2 (+ 1/2) 31-1/2 (+ 1/2) 33-1/2 (+ 1/2) 35-1/2 (+ 1/2) 37-1/2 (+ 1/2) 39-1/2 (+ 1/2)

1/ Neck: Measurement taken from center of collar button to front cut-end of buttonhole, with collar in flat position.

2/ Chest: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, measure across from folded edge to folded edge at bottom of armhole seams.

3/ Waist: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, locate waist by measuring down from center back neck (bottom of collar) as specified and measure straight across on waist from folded edge to folded edge: 17-inches for X-Short; 18-inches for

Short; 19-inches for Regular; 20-inches for Tall and 21-inches for X-Tall.

4/ Sweep: Twice the measurement with shirt buttoned and laid flat, measure sweep from bottom edge straight across from folded edge to folded edge.

5/ Across shoulder: With folded shirt laid flat, back panel facing up, catch armhole seams at armhole and side seams intersection, smooth fabric up towards shoulders to find shoulder points at armhole seam. Measure across back from shoulder point seam to shoulder point seam.

6/ Back length: Measurements taken at center back from bottom of collar stand joining seam to bottom of shirt.

7/ Bicep (Style B): Twice the measurement with sleeve flat, the bicep is located at 1” down along underarm seam, measure across sleeve perpendicular to underarm seam.

8/ Sleeve length (Style A): With shirt laid flat, back body panel up, folded and fabric smoothed, catch armhole seams at bottom, smooth fabric at armhole seams up to find shoulder points at armhole. Measure along sleeve outseam from top of sleeve’s shoulder point (sleeve head) to bottom of sleeve hem.

9/ Sleeve Length (Style B): Measure from center back neck at collar seam on a straight line to shoulder point and along outseam of sleeve to bottom of hem (3 point measurement).

3.12 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.8. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.12.1 Toxicity documents. All treatments used to process that cloth shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) information.

3.13 Workmanship. The finished shirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality limits (see 6.2).

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and visual defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in 4.7.1.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.5 and 4.6 and the testing of 4.7 and 4.8, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or purchase order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2).

4.4 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in the specification or applicable procurement documents (see

6.2).

4.5 End item visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in Table

IX. The lot shall be expressed in units of shirts. The sample unit is one (1) shirt. The inspection level and AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. Unless otherwise specified, scoring shall be performed on defects visible from a normal inspection distance of 3-feet. Material defects are defined in ASTM D3990.

TABLE IX. End item visual defects.

Examine Defect description Classification

Major Minor

Hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave, missing, broken, or loose yarn, shade bar

Color streaked, barred, mottled or not as specified; area of poor dye penetration extending more than 1/4-inch in any direction on outside part, dye streak, visible mend, thin place, permanent crease

Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C (see 2.3)

Slubs greater than fabric Defect Replica Scale Level D (see 2.3)

Shade Shaded parts on the outside, any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part

Component color not as specified

Component parts

Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern part, misplaced, or omitted

Fullness creating unwanted permanent fold, pleat, or crease in fabric or garment

Stitches and

Seams

Any seams open, puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted or irregular, not as specified, needle chew or irregular stitching, or stitching not as specified, loose tension resulting in loose seams Skipped or runoff stitches, ends of stitching not secured

Visible mend, pleat or crease

Needle perforations clearly visible on outside

Any part of shirt caught in an unrelated operation or stitching.

Bartack: Omitted, misplaced, not serving intended purpose, not specified size, not secured through proper layers of fabric, loose or tight stitching, or broken stitches

Buttons Not specified type, size, or color

Misplaced, omitted, broken or defective

Not attached as specified, or insecurely sewn- stitching not locked at end of cycle (tug at loose end of thread when accessible to determine if it will ravel)

Buttonholes

Any omitted, added, misplaced, ragged edges, caught in other stitching or component, not secured through proper layers of fabric, not serving intended purpose, broken stitches

Not specified size or type, finished cut length not as specified, two (2) or more uncut yarn per buttonhole

Fronts Width of facing not as specified

Facing not smooth and flat (evidence of puckering)

Front edge not folded straight with warp (curved or angled)

Two (2) or more buttonholes:

Spacing between unequal by 1/4-inch or more

Out of vertical alignment by 1/8-inch or more

TABLE IX. End item visual defects. - Continued

Fronts

When buttoned:

Front facing tight or twisted causing noticeable bulge

Uneven in length at bottom by 1/2-inch or more

Misaligned buttons with corresponding buttonhole causing gap, puckers, or tightness

Hem type, or width not as specified

Loops

Not specified dimension, not uniform size or shape, any point varying 1/4-inch or more

Shoulder loop puckered, twisted, or distorted, not positioned as specified or attached crookedly

Button stay omitted or improperly positioned or not securely attached

Collar Not uniform in size or shape, distorted, or twisted

Edges of under collar exposed beyond edge of top collar

Collar points:

uneven in length by 1/8-inch or more greater than 2-3/4-inches or less than 2-1/2- inches not properly forced out

Width of collar stand varying more than 3/16-inch when measured at the two (2) shoulder seams at junction of collar

Collar not positioned properly, off center by 1/4-inch or more

Collar opening less than 3/8-inch or more than 1/2-inch when collar is buttoned

Collar not as specified, distorted or not positioned properly

No collar stays

Sleeves

Tight, or excessive puckers, twisted, sleeves reversed.

Long sleeves (Style B):

Binding omitted, improperly positioned, puckered, twisted or distorted, not specified width or length, top of binding not stitched as specified, sides of opening uneven in length

Pleat omitted, misplaced, facing incorrect direction, or not specified size

Cuff puckered, twisted, or distorted, not uniform in size or shape, not stitched as specified

Short sleeves (Style A):

Hem not as specified

Pressing Some or all pressing omitted, wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions not removed, scorched area, not presenting a finished appearance, poorly pressed

TABLE IX. End item visual defects. - Continued.

Fusible interlining

Bubbling, delamination, bleed through, resin transfer, wrinkling, or puckering

Workmanship

Distorted parts or poor workmanship, visible drill hole on outside of shirt (as worn)

Any edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds more than 1/16-inch.

Cleanliness Any spot or stain clearly noticeable

Three (3) or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 1/4-inch or less or not removed

Odor affecting serviceability, any lint, dust or foreign matter not removed

Any shade identification marking visible on outside of shirt

(as worn)

Two (2) or more shade identification labels not removed

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified 145

Packaging Any shirt not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

4.6 End item dimensional examination. The shirt shall be examined for conformance to the finished dimensions specified in Tables VII and VIII. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of shirts. The sample unit shall be one (1) shirt. The inspection level, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.7 Methods of inspection. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement document (see

6.2).

4.7.1 Material component testing. The interlining fabric (see 3.4.4) shall be tested for characteristics listed in Table X. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table X shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be three (3) continuous yards full width of the finished material to conduct all tests. The lot size shall be as stated in the contract or purchase order. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any requirement specified.

TABLE X. Material test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Fiber ID 3.4.4 AATCC 20A

Weight, oz./sq. yd (min) Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M

Construction Table I Visual

Yarn per inch (min)

Warp Table I ASTM D3775

Filling Table I ASTM D3775

Breaking strength, (lbs.) min

Warp Table I ASTM D5034

Filling Table I ASTM D5034

Stiffness, psi Table I ASTM D747

Dimensional stability, after 3 launderings, (percent)

Warp Table I AATCC135, 3,III, Aii

Filling Table I AATCC135, 3,III, Aii

4.7.2 Seam and fabric appearance evaluation.

4.7.2.1 Apparatus. The following apparatus is required for evaluating samples for seam and fabric appearance:

a. AATCC Three dimensional smoothness appearance replicas.

b. AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas for evaluating single- and double-needle seams.

4.7.2.2 Laundering and conditioning procedure. The sample shirt shall be laundered five (5) complete cycles in accordance with AATCC 143. The laundering parameters are:

Machine Wash Permanent Press Cycle; Rinse Cold; Tumble Dry Permanent Press

(NOTE: During any interruptions between cycles and during conditioning and evaluation, the test shirt shall be hung on wooden or plastic hangers and shall be buttoned at the front.)

4.7.2.3 Evaluation of the appearance of fabric and seams. After the test shirt has been laundered and conditioned as specified in 4.7.2.2, the shirt shall be evaluated for the fabric smoothness appearance in accordance AATCC 143 and seam appearance in accordance with

AATCC 88B . Each characteristic shall be assigned an average numerical value and the values recorded. A test failure shall be reported if any appearance rating falls below the minimum average of three (3) ratings or any one (1)…