Atch 7 - Womens Officer Service Slacks PD 93-6 Rev 2..pdf

Purchase Description 93-6 Revision 2 21 Jul 1997

SLACKS, WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for women’s slacks.

1.2 Classifications. The slacks shall be furnished in the following types, as specified (see 6.2):

Class 1 – 55%/45% Polyester/Wool Serge, USAF 1620 Class 2 – 100% Polyester Texturized Twill, USAF Blue 1625 Type I – Dart Front Slack(s) Type II – Two Pleat Front Slacks

1.2.1 Lengths and sizes. The slacks shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

Schedule of lengths and sizes Misses

Short 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Regular 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22

Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

Women’s

Short 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Regular 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22

Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

NOTE: lengths and sizes shown are for tariff sizes only. We will have sizes as follows upon request.

Misses Women’s

APPICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents

2.1.1 Specifications and standards. The following specifications and standards form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of these

Short 0

Regular 24

Long 20 22 24

Short

Regular

Long 20 22 24

FA700022Q0072

Attachment 7 documents shall be those listed in the issue of the department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

AA-50199 Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered

AA-52094 Thread, Cotton

V-F-106 Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking DDD-L-20 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, General Use

MILITARY

MIL-C-823 Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-43718 Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles MIL-W-5665 Webbing, Textile, Elastic, Cotton

PERCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

PD YAGC 94-1 Cloth, Texturized, Woven, Twill, Polyester, Air Force Blue 1625

FEDERAL

FED-STD-751 Stitches, Seams, And Stitchings

MILITARY STANDARDS

MIL-STD-105 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-656 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Women’s

2.1.2 Other Government documents. The following other government document forms a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation.

LAWS AND REGULATIONS

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fibers Products Identification Act

(Application for copies should be address to the Federal Trade Commission, Washington DC 20580-0001.)

Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications and standards are available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk 700 Robbins Ave, Bldg 4D Philadelphia PA 19111-5094

2.2 Shade References and Purchase Descriptions. Shade standards and/or swatches and Purchase Descriptions referred to in this document can be obtained from the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or from the AF Clothing Division as specified in 4.3.

(Non-government standards and other publications are normally available from the organization which prepare or which distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the test of this purchase description shall take precedence. Nothing in this purchase description however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide samples. Guide samples, when furnished (see 6.3), are solely for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from the document may appear in the samples, in which case the document shall govern.

3.2 First article or Pilot Lot. When specified in the contract or purchase order, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (4.4).

3.3 Materials. (see 6.5)

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the class 1 slacks shall be USAF Color Blue, Shade No.

1620 and conform to MIL-C-823, Type III, Class 4. The basic material for the Class 2 slacks shall be USAF Color Blue, Shade No. 1625 and conform to Purchase description YAGC 94-1.

3.3.2 Twill cloth. The material for the left fly lining and for the side pockets shall be twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718 and shall match the color of the basic material or shall be USN Color Black. Shade No. 3212 (see 6.3).

3.3.3 Fusible material. The fusible material for the waistband, fly, and pocket stays shall be type V, style A or B, Class 2 of MIL-C-44296 and the color shall be black.

3.3.4 Slide fasteners. The slide fastener shall be either a continuous chain metal slide fastener or plastic coil slide fastener. The continuous chain metal slide fastener shall conform to type I, style 3, short tab pull, size LS of V-F-106 except that the salt spray test shall not be required and that all components shall be from the same supplier (see 4.5.1). All the components of the continuous chain metal slide fastener shall be brass. The plastic coil slide fastener shall consist of an automatic or cam lock and tape and shall be equal to commercial size No. 2. The plastic coil slide fastener shall be made of polyester or nylon.

3.3.4.1 Tape. The tape for the metal slide fastener shall be cotton, synthetic, or a combination of cotton and synthetic. The tape for the plastic coil slide fastener shall be a blend of nylon and cotton or polyester and cotton or all polyester or nylon in both the warp and the filling directions and shall have a width 7/16 to ½ inch for each side. The color of the tape of the slide fastener shall approximately match the color of the slacks (see 3.3.1).

3.3.4.1.1 Colorfastness. The tape of the slide fastener shall have colorfastness to wet dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall have “good” fastness to wet dry cleaning.

3.3.5 Hooks and eyes. The hooks and eyes shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49,K-50,H-89, and E-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon No. 3, No. 7, and No. 8 hook with No. eye or No. 85 eye); Akim C0. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, Type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288;Rau (OA50, OX 1256. 080415), Patwin, Inc. #Slim-Slak with MB eye , and Slick-Slak), or equal. The finish of the hooks and eyes shall be nickel plate. Prior to the use of an “or equal” item, the manufacturer of the slacks shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval (see 4.5.1).

3.3.6 labels. Each pair of slacks shall have a size label and a combination identification and instruction label conforming to DDD-L-20. The labels shall have colorfastness to dry cleaning.

3.3.6.1 Size label. The size label shall show misses or women’s, the size and length of the slacks in black numerals and letters and shall conform to type VI, class 2. the length may be abbreviated as follows:

MS (Misses Short), WS (Women’s Short), R (Regular), MR (Misses Regular), WR (Women’s Regular), or L (Long), ML (Misses Long), or WL (Women’s Long).

3.3.6.2 Combination label. The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to type VI, class 15 and shall include the following information:

Slacks, Women’s Contract No.: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) !/Wool Products Labeling Act (information as applicable) _1/ Contractor: 1/ Slacks# 2/

DRY CLEAN ONLY

1/ The contractor shall include the applicable information

3.3.7 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching and overedging shall be cotton conforming to type III, ticket Nos. 0, 2 or 3 ply and 00, 2 or 3 ply of A-A-52094 or polyester-covered polyester core thread conforming to ticket Nos. 50, 2 or 3 ply and 70, 2 ply of MIL-T-43548. The thread for bartacking shall be cotton conforming to type IC2, ticket No. 0, 3 ply of V-T-276 or cotton-covered or rayon-covered polyester conforming to ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply of MIL-T-43548. The color of the thread shall be Navy Blue AT, C.A. 66060 (see DoD Color Card).

3.3.7.1 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show fastness to light and wet dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample (see 6.3). When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show ”good” fastness to light and wet dry cleaning.

3.3.8 Waistband elastic. The elastic for the waistband shall be one inch wide high stretch elastic, BAN-ROL XL92 1 inch wide elastic, or equal. The color shall be natural, un bleached, or dyed black.

3.4 Design. The slacks shall have a two-section waistband, two quarter top side pockets, front and back waist darts for type I; two pleats for type II, a center front closure that consists of a slide fastener and hook and eye, and straight legs that are unhemmed.

3.5 Patterns. The seam allowance shall be 3/8 inch for waistband joining seam, fly front, front crotch, and pocket facing; 1 ¼ inch seat seam closure beginning at the waist tapering to 3/8 inch at the notch and continuing with 3/8 inch through the bottom of the crotch; 1 ¼ inch back seam beginning at the crotch tapering to ½ inch at the knee notch and continuing with ½ inch through the hem (joined to the front inseam with an even ½ inch). All other seams shall be1/2 inch. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

3.5.1 Patterns parts. The components of the slack shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table I.

TABLE I. List of Patterns Parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic cloth Front Darted 2 (see 3.3.1) Front Pleated 2 Back 2 Right Waistband 1 Left Waistband 1 Right Fly 1 Left Fly 1 Pocket Facing 2 Pocket Yoke 2 Beltloop 1

Twill cloth Pocket 2 (see 3.3.2) Pocket Bearer 2

Fusible Right Waistband Interlining 1 (see 3.3.3) Left Waistband Interlining 1 Right fly Interlining 1 Pocket Stay 2

NOTE: See figures 1 & 2

3.6 Construction. The construction of the slacks shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in Table II. Figured are furnished for guidance and information only. If there are any inconsistencies between the purchase description and the figures, the purchase description shall govern.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchings. All

stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to FED-STD-751.

The type of seams, stitchings and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table II. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers, or open seams occur. When two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of the operation, any one may be used.

Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished slacks. All seams shall start and finish evenly at the seam line.

TABLE II. Manufacturing operations.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the slacks in strict accordance with the Government furnished patterns, which show directional lines, size and placement of pockets, drill marks for finished length of darts, and notches for proper assembly of parts.

b. Cut all parts of the basic fabric from one piece of cloth.

2. Replacement of damaged parts.

a. During the spreading, cutting and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-656 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

b. Replaced any part cut of the fusible interlining if it exhibit any of the following conditions: color change, bleed through, or bubbling.

3. Marking.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all component parts of the slacks to insure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the slacks.

TABLE II. Manufacturing operations. – Continued

Seam and Stitching Type

Stitches Per Inch

4. Fusing.

Fuse interlining to right and left waistband, right fly and pocket opening of slack front in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer of the fusible materia

5. Overedge stitching.

NOTE: No trim allowance has been added.

a. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the outseam, the inseam, and the bottom of the legs.

or

Efd-I 10-14

b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the center front seam and the seat seam.

or

Efd-1 10-14

c. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the long curved edge of the right fly.

or

d. Overedge the unnnotched long edges of the waistbands. 502 or

Seam and Stitching Type

6. Make Stripping for belt loops.

Finished appearance.

The finished stripping shall measure 5/16 t 3/8 inch wide.

a. Fold stripping with both edges turned in and turned-in edges abutted at center and stitch with a covering stitch.

Efh-1 10-14

b. Turn in one side of stripping. Fold stripping with the turned-in edge overlapped on the raw edges at center and stitch with a covering stitch.

406 Efy-1 10-14

7. Make darts.

Finished appearance. The finished darts shall be tapered on the inside without twists or puckers. The thread ends at the lower end of the darts, after trimming, shall be not less than ½ inch long. The darts may be bartacked and ends trimmed when using an automatic dart sewing machine.

a. Fold and stitch the darts on fronts (Type I only) and backs as indicated by the notches and the drill holes. Stitch from the notch to ½ inch beyond the drill hole.

301 Osf-1 10-14

b. Press darts flat with the inside folded edges turned toward the center front and center back, respectively.

Seam and Stitching Type

8. Make front pleats. (Type II only).

a. Fold leg in half lengthwise from ankle to knee notch.

Hard press crease from ankle to the level of the knee notch.

b. Fold remainder of leg from crease at knee directly to the notch closest to the center front. Hard press from knee to waist.

c. Fold pleat in accordance with the notches. Stitch

¼ inch from cut edge of waistline to stabilize location of pleat. Open fold of pleats shall face the side seams.

Repeat for second pleat.

301 Osc-1 10-14

9. Make pockets.

a. Place a pocket facing on each pocket. With the raw edge turned in ¼ inch, edge stitch along the inner side and across the lower end.

301 LSd-1 10-14

b. Place a pocket yoke on each pocket. With the raw edge turned in ¼ inch, edge stitch along the inner side and across the lower end.

301 LSd-1 10-14

c. Fold pocket in half, right side together, at the notch on the bottom and aligning angled cut edges at the top. Stitch to pocket bearer in ¼ inch seam (when the pieces are aligned properly, the cut edges of the pocket bag will match those on the angled portion of the pocket bearer, the fold will sit 3/16 inch from the straight cut edge of the pocket bearer and be caught in a 1/16 inch edge stitch.

301 Ssa-1 10-14

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching Type

10. Attach pockets.

Finished appearance. The edges of the pocket openings shall not be distorted. The finished pocket openings shall be uniform in length and shall be not more than 1/8 inch out of alignment with each other.

a. Seam a pocket to each front at the pocket opening, first perpendicular to the cut edge, pivoting at the corner, then continuing to the waist. Clip into the corner.

301 SSa-1 10-14

b. Turn each pocket to the finished position with the seam rolled to the under side, and topstitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from front edge.

301 Sse-1 10-14

c. Stitch lower edge of pocket from fold to side seam. 515

EFd-1 10-14

d. Stitch the center front of the pocket bearer to the center front of the pant ¼ inch from the edge.

e. (Type II only) Create the inside crease of the front pleats by pressing to conform to the shape created by the pocket bearer.

11. Join outseams.

a. Join outseam, with notches matched, catching the pocket and the pocket facing in the outseam.

or

Ssa-1 10-14

b. Press the outseams open, from the bottom to the top of the slacks.

Seam and Stitching Type

12. Make flies.

Finished appearance. The edges of the chain of the slide fastener in the finished slacks shall be ½ to 5/8 inch from the edge at the top, tapering to ¼ to 3/8 inch from the edge at the bottom. The flies and the waistband shall lie smoothly when the finished slacks are closed.

a. Stitch the back edge of the slide fastener tape to the right fly with two rows of stitching. The ends of the scoops shall be ¼ to ½ inch above the fly notch when the fastener are cut and the scoops are removed.

or

LSbj-2 12-16

10-14

b. Fold the left fly in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch curved edge. Turn, work out seam, and stitch again.

301 Sse-2 10-14

c. After the fasteners are cut and the scoops are removed, stitch the slide fastener tape to the back edge of the left fly, with the bottom end of the scoops ¼ to ½ inch above the fly notch.

301 Ssa-1 10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

13. Attach flies.

Finished appearance. The finished flies shall be even at the ends when the flies are joined to the crotch seam.

The flies shall lie flat without twists or puckers when the slide fastener is closed. The top corners of the right fly (if applicable) and of the left fly shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the right fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly.

The seam joining the right fly to the front shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks when the slide fastener is closed. The left fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks. The flies shall be smooth without twist, puckers, or excessive fullness.

a. Sew the right fly (with the slide fastener attached) to the front with the notches matching.

b. Sew the left fly (with the slide fastener attached) to the front with the notches matching.

c. Turn the flies to the inside with the seam 1/16 to 1/8 inch back of the folded edge. Press the front edge, without damaging the slide fastener.

d. Edge stitch the right fly 1/16 inch from the seamed edge. Turn to the finished position and stitch approximately 1 ¼ inches from the front edge at the top following the configuration of the fly, stitching and tapering off to the notch at the bottom.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

14. Join inseams.

a. Note that the seam allowance of the back inseam at the crotch is1 ¼ inch (as noted) tapering to ½ inch at the knee and continuing ½ inch to the hem.

The seam allowance of the front inseam is ½ inch throughout. Match the notches on the fronts and the backs at the inseams and join each inseam. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

or

Ssa-1 10-14

b. Press the inseams open and flat.

15. Tack darts.

The folded edge of all darts may be tacked to the fronts before the waistband is attached to the slacks.

or 304

Ose-1 10-14

16. Attach front, side, and side back beltloops to slacks.

There shall be five beltloops on the slacks sizes 8 and below-one on each front, one on each side back, and one at th center back. On sizes 10 and up an additional beltloop shall Be added at each side seam for a total of seven.

a. On sizes 8 and below the front beltloops shall be located adjacent to and outside the centermost dart or pleat, Toward the side seam. On sizes 10 and above the beltloops shall be located adjacent to and inside the centermost dart or pleat, toward the center front. Drop and stitch beltloop 3/8 inch from waistline edge.

301 SSa-1 10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

16.

cont.

b. The side beltloops (size 10 and up) shall be located centered on the side seam. Drop and stitch beltloop 3/8 inch from waistline edge.

c. the side back beltloops shall be located adjacent to and outside the finished dart closest to the side seam in all sizes. Drop and stitch beltloop 3/8 inch from waistline edge.

d. The finished loop shall measure 1 11/16 inch to 1 13/16 inch between stitched points. The loop shall have enough ease to allow for a 1 ¼ inch wide belt to easily thread.

NOTE: If an automatic beltloop tacker is used, the front, side, and side back beltloops shall be located as above on the slacks but attached as part of step 20.

17. Attach waistband, join crotch and seat seams.

Finished appearance. The top edge of the slide fastener chain and the tape shall extend beyond the waistband seam a minimum of 3/8 inch, shall be encased within the waistband, and shall be caught in the waistband edge stitching. The finished left waistband shall be flush with left fly. The finished right waistband shall finish flush with the fold of the right fly. The finished waistband shall be 1 ¼ + 1/8 inches wide.

The crotch and seat seam shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain encountered in sitting or stooping. The crotch and seat seam shall be joined so that

Seam and Stitching Type the inseams will meet and the right and the left waistband joining seams will be aligned. The base of the right fly shall cover the left fly on the outside of the finished slacks.

17. a. Seam the left and right waistband sections to the cont. left and right top of the slacks, working in fullness evenly between the notches at the front and catching the top ends of the slide fastener tape, the darts (or pleats, as applicable), and the top of the pockets on the stitching.

401 SSa-1 10-14

b. Cut two pieces of one inch wide elastic, each

3 ¼ inches long. Tack the ends of each piece on the underside of the waistband ½ inch in from the elastic ends. Stitching lines should align with notches.

SSau-2 10-14

c. Join the crotch and seat seam from the base of the flies to the end of the waistband using a tandem needle seat seamer or a single row of stitching with double thread through the needle. The stitching of the outlet seam allowance at the center back shall be gradually increased from 3/8 inch at the notch to 1 ¼ inches at the waist and through the waistband.

401 SSa-2 8-10

d. Press the crotch and seat seam open.

No. Description of Operation Stitch TypSeam and Stitching Type

18. Complete waistband ends, attach labels.

a. Fold waistbands in half, right sides together.

Seam across front ends. Trim, turn, work out the corners, and press.

b. Position the tops of the identification, size, and instruction labels on the bottom of the waistband centered over the centermost back darts (+ ½ inch), with the size label on the left side and the instruction label on the right side (as worn). Stitch the tops of the identification, size and instruction labels to the bottom of the waistband with one row of stitching. Labels may be caught in the waistband joining seam.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

In lieu of operation above, position the top of the combination identification, size, and instruction label on the bottom of the waistband centered over the left (as worn) centermost back dart (+ ½ inch).

Stitch the top of the combination identification, size, and instruction label to the bottom edge of the waistband with one row of stitching.

NOTE: The stitching shall not be through the printing of the labels.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

19. Attach hooks and eyes and complete waistband.

a. Attach one hook through a suitable reinforcement to the right waistband as follows: Position one hook on the center (1/8 inch tolerance) of the right waistband so that the rolled edge of the hook will be aligned with the slide fastener scoops.

b. Attach the second hook in the same manner 1 ½ inches from the first hook and toward the side seam.

c. Attach one eye through a suitable reinforcement to the waistband as follows: Position one eye on the center of the left waistband so that the eye will be aligned with the slide fastener scoops.

d. Attach the second eye in the same manner 1 ½ inches from the first eye and toward the waistband end.

NOTE: When the hooks and eyes of the finished slacks are engaged, the closure of the slacks shall not bulge, pucker, or twist.

e. Topstitch slacks at the bottom of the waistband, catching the inside overedged portion.

301 LScr-2 10-14

Seam and Stitching Type

20. Attach center back beltloop and finish all beltloops.

Finished appearance. The tacking shall extend the width of the loop but not beyond. The opening in the finished loop shall measure 1 ½ to 1 5/8 inches.

a. Place one loop centered on the center back seam with the lower end ¼ inch below the bottom edge of the waistband and stitch the beltloop over the center back seam 1/8 inch below the bottom edge of the waistband.

Turn beltloop down over stitching and stitch the beltloop over center back seam 3/8 inch from bottom of waistban

301 LSbk-1 10-14

b. Turn under top end of each beltloop ¼ inch and barta to slacks 1/8 inch below top edge of waistband.

bartack Lsd-1 28 per bartack

c. If an automatic loop tacker is used, all loops shall be attached in this operation using the location and dimensions prescribed for the manually attached beltloops. Each end of the beltloop shall be turned under ¼ inch and attached with a bartack 1/8 inch from the turned end of the beltloop.

automatic loop tacker per bartack

21. Assemble fasteners.

Attach slider with the end of the chain even, staple the fastener together.

NOTE: Staple shall not be attached more than ½ inch above fly notch

Seam and Stitching Type

22. Bartack.

Finished appearance. The bartack shall be made and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified

a. Bartack the upper end of each pocket opening ¼ inch below the waistband seam. Bartack the lower end of each pocket opening so that the bartack will extend 1/16 to 1/8 inch beyond the outseam. The bartacks shall be parallel to the waistline seam (horizontal).

NOTE: The distance between the tacks of each opening shall be not less than 5 ¾ inches not more than 6 ¼ inches.

Bartack 28 stitches per bartack

b. Bartack the slacks at the base of the fly at the junction of the crotch seam and fly. The bartack may be either diagonal (in line with the fly stitching) or horizontal and shall not extend beyond the crotch seam.

Bartack 28 stitches per bartack

23. Clean slacks.

Trim thread ends and remove loose threads. Remove spots, stains, and shade or size markings.

Seam and Stitching Type

24. Press slacks.

8 a. Press top of slacks smooth and flat.

b. Place legs, seam on seam, and press slacks smooth, flat creasing legs. On pleated pants, continue front leg crease to lower edge of pleat nearest center front.

3.6.1.1 Type 301 stitching. The ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than ¼ inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than ½ inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The look shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.6.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of ¼ inch back of the end of the stitching (see NOTE).

b. Except for prestitching, thread breaks, or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (inprocess or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of ¼ inch back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of ¼ inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by restitching in the required manner (see NOTE).

NOTE: When making the above repairs the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.6.1.2 Types 401,502,503, and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.6.1.1. Type 301 stitching may be used to repair type 401 stitching.

3.6.1.3 Bartacks. Unless otherwise specified, all bartacks shall be ¼ + 1/16 inch long, 1/8 + 1/32 inch wide, and shall contain 28 stitches (minimum). Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.1.4 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping, or backstitches are used to secure the end of stitches.

3.6.1.5 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to ¼

3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The slacks shall be made in accordance with operations requirements specified in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed unless otherwise specified. Any additional basting or holding stitches used to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished slacks.

3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the slacks shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the slacks. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration and adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the ticket.

NOTE: The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the slacks and wherever possible is covered by the seam allowance.

3.7.2 Pressing. All pressing required in Table II shall be done with a heated pressing iron or machine.

3.8 Finished measurements. The finished measurements of the slacks shall be as specified in Table III.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished slacks shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable point values.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as other wise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facility suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the purchase description shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality nonconformance does not authorize submission of know defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.2 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.4).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.5).

4.3 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in 4.5.1.

4.4 First article or pilot lot inspections. When a first article or pilot lot inspection is required, it shall be examined for the defects specified in 4.5.3. The presence of any defect shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

TABLE II Finished Measurements – Misses and Women’s, Type I and II

Size Waist 1/

Hips 2/

Inseam Length

3/

Bottom 4/

Knees 5/

Outseam 6/

Misses Women’s Short Regular Long 2 22 ½ 37 38 ½ 36 15 ½ 18 ¾ 45 45 ¾ 46 ¾ 4 23 ½ 38 39 ½ 36 15 ¾ 19 45 1/8 45 7/8 46 7/8 6 24 ½ 39 40 ½ 36 16 19 ¼ 45 ¼ 46 47 8 25 ½ 40 42 36 16 ¼ 19 ½ 45 3/8 46 1/8 47 1/8

10 27 41 43 36 16 ½ 20 45 ½ 46 ¼ 47 ¼ 12 28 ½ 42 ½ 44 ½ 36 16 34 20 ½ 45 5/8 46 3/8 47 3/8 14 30 ½ 44 ½ 46 ½ 36 17 21 45 ¾ 46 ½ 47 ½ 16 32 46 47 ½ 36 17 ¼ 21 ½ 45 7/8 46 5/8 47 5/8 18 33 ½ 48 49 36 17 ½ 22 46 46 ¾ 47 ¾ 20 35 ½ 50 ¼ 51 ¼ 36 17 ¾ 22 ½ 46 1/8 46 7/8 47 7/8 22 37 ½ 52 ¼ 53 ¼ 36 17 7/8 23 46 ¼ 47 48

Tolerance + ½ + ½ + ½ + ¼ + ½ + ½ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼

1/ With the elastic relaxed measure the waist from folded edge to folded edge across the center of the waistband, with the slide fastener closed, and multiply the measurement by two.

2/ Measure the hips from the folded edge to folded edge, 8-1/2 inches below the top of the waistband, with the slide fastener closed, and multiply the measurement by two, For Type II, close the pleats and flatten them with the hand before the measurement. Take the measurement without stretching the pleats open.

3/ Measure the inseam length, along the inseam, from the crotch seam to the unhemmed bottom of the leg.

4/ Measure the unhemmed bottom of the leg from the folded edge to folded edge and multiply the measurement by two.

5/ Measure knee from folded edge to folded edge across the width of the leg and multiply the measurement by two. The distance from the unhemmed bottom of the leg at witch the knee is measure shall be 21-1/2 inches.

6/ Measure the outseam length, from the top of the waistband to the unhemmed bottom of the leg.

4.5 Quality conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspections shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-656.

4.5.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, component and material shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable purchase document. Certificates of compliance will be acceptable for the following requirements: requirements that all components of the metal slide fastener shall be from the same supplier (see 3.3.4); requirements for the hooks and eyes (see 3.3.5).

4.5.2 In-process inspection. Inspections shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform in all respects. Whenever nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the items affected and lot in process. Items which cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.5.3 Point count inspection. Sampling and inspection provisions for end item examination of dress(D) slacks, dimensional examination/inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-656. The occurrence of defects during these examinations shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect limit specified.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, packing and marking. The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended use. The slacks covered by this purchase description are intended to be worn by female Air Force personnel as part of the dress uniform.

6.2 Ordering data

6.2.1 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Length and size required (see 1.2).

c. When a first article is required (see 3.2).

6.3 Samples. For access to guide samples of the end item and shade samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids.

6.4 First article. The first article should be a preproduction sample or initial production item. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for examinations, approval of first article test results and disposition of first article.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Slacks, woman’s Uniform,dress