Atch 11 - Womens Mess Dress Jacket PD YAPC 04-05 Amend 1..pdf

648 AESS/TAC PURCHASE DESCRIPTION YAPC04-05

AIR FORCE CLOTHING OFFICE AMENDMENT 1

23 March 2007

JACKET, MESS DRESS, WOMEN’S, BLUE 1583

Page 1, Paragraph 1, delete paragraph 1.4 and substitute the following:

1.4 Sizes. These Jackets shall be furnished in the following sizes as specified (see 6-2):

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

Misses (M) Sizes

Short, (MS) 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Regular, (MR) 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Long, (ML) 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 X Long, (MXL) 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Page 5, Paragraph 3.3.10.delete paragraph 3.3.10 and substitute the following:

3.3.10 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type I, Style I, Class B of MIL-B-3461.The buttons shall be 25-line size with short shank for the decorative buttons.

Page 6, Paragraph 3.7.2 Removable Size Ticket. After, the ticket will show the size of the coat, for example: delete the following:

12 12 12 Short Regular Long

And substitute: 12MS 12 MR 12 ML 12XL

FA700022Q0072

Attachment 11

Page 20, TABLE V, FINISHED MEASUREMENTS, delete and substitute the following:

TABLE V - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Short (S) Length

SIZE

½-Waist

Back Length

Hemmed sleeve

2 MS 15 18-1/8 22-5/8

4 MS 15-1/2 18-1/4 22-3/4

6 MS 16 18-3/8 22-7/8

8 MS 16-1/2 18-1/2 23

10 MS 17 18-5/8 23-1/8

12 MS 17-3/4 18-3/4 23-5/16

14 MS 18-1/4 18-7/8 23-1/2

16 MS 19 19 23-11/16

18 MS 20 19-1/8 23-15/16

20 MS 21 19-1/4 24-3/16

22 MS 22 19-3/8 24-7/16

24 MS 23 19-1/2 24-11/16

Tolerance +/-1/4 +/-1/4 +/-1/4 Regular (R) Length

2 MR 15 19-1/8 23-5/8

4 MR 15-1/2 19-1/4 23-3/4

6 MR 16 19-3/8 23-7/8

8 MR 16-1/2 19-1/2 24

10 MR 17 19-5/8 24-1/8

12 MR 17-3/4 19-3/4 24-5/16

14 MR 18-1/4 19-7/8 24-1/2

16 MR 19 20 24-11/16

18 MR 20 20-1/8 24-15/16

20 MR 21 20-1/4 25-3/16

22 MR 22 20-3/8 25-7/16

24 MR 23 20-1/2 25-11/16

Tolerance +/-1/4 +/-1/4 +/-1/4 Long (L) Length

2 ML 15 20-1/8 24-5/8

4 ML 15-1/2 20-1/4 24-3/4

6 ML 16 20-3/8 24-7/8

8 ML 16-1/2 20-1/2 25

10 ML 17 20-5/8 25-1/8

12 ML 17-3/4 20-3/4 25-5/16

14 ML 18-1/4 20-7/8 25-1/2

16 ML 19 21 25-11/16

18 ML 20 21-1/8 25-15/16

20 ML 21 21-1/4 26-3/16

22 ML 22 21-3/8 26-7/16

24 ML 23 21-1/2 26-11/16

Tolerance +/-1/4 +/-1/4 +/-1/4

Extra Long Length

SIZE (XL)

2 MXL 15 21-1/8 25-5/8

4 MXL 15-1/2 21-1/4 25-3/4

6 MXL 16 21-3/8 25-7/8

8 MXL 16-1/2 21-1/2 26

10 MXL 17 21-5/8 26-1/8

12 MXL 17-3/4 21-3/4 26-5/16

14 MXL 18-1/4 21-7/8 26-1/2

16 MXL 19 22 26-11/16

18 MXL 20 22-1/8 26-15/16

20 MXL 21 22-1/4 27-3/16

22 MXL 22 22-3/8 27-7/16

24 MXL 23 22-1/2 27-11/16

Tolerance +/-1/4 +/-1/4 +/-1/4

1. The ½-Waist measurement shall be taken from the front edge of coat, even with the middle button, to the back center seam. Tolerance is plus or minus 1/4 inch.

2. The Back Length measurement shall be taken from the lower edge of the under collar seam to the bottom edge of the Jacket. (See Figure 4, Back View) Tolerance is plus or minus 1/4 inch.

3. The Hemmed Sleeve measurement shall be taken from top of armhole at the shoulder to bottom edge of sleeve. Tolerance is plus or minus 1/4 inch.

HUMAN SYSTEMS GROUP PURCHASE DESCRIPTION YAPC 04-5

HUMAN PROTECTION SYSTEMS PROGRAM OFFICE REVISION 30NOV2005

AIR FORCE CLOTHING OFFICE SUPERSEDES

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION AESC 82-3A 1 JUNE 1984

JACKET, MESS DRESS, WOMEN'S, BLUE 1583

1. SCOPE .

1.1 Scope. This Purchase Description covers the requirements for the Mess Dress Jackets worn by women of the United States Air Force.

1.2 Classification. The Jackets shall be of two types and two classes as specified (see 6.2):

Style 1: General officers & officers Style 2: Enlisted Personnel

1.3 Finished Measurements.

1.3.1 Style I, and Style 2 . The finished measurements of these jackets shall conform to those dimensions as specified in Table V.

1.4 Sizes. These Jackets shall be furnished in the following sizes as specified (see 6-2):

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

Misses Sizes

Short 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Regular 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Long 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 X Long 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation bids, form a part of this Purchase

Description to the extent specified herein.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-3174 Plastic Sheet and Strip, Thin Gauge, Polyolefin A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-50196 Thread, Silk A-A-52097 Cloth, Cotton, Wiggan A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend

MILITARY

MIL-C-368J Cloth Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon

MIL-B-371 Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-B-3461G(4) Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-L-15040F1 Label, Garment (Woven, Rayon) MIL-P-15064G Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-DTL-32075 Label for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191A(6) Textile Test Methods

MILITARY

MIL-STD-129P Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-1608(C)1 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Women's, Dress

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

AESC 82-2 Cloth, Tropical, Polyester/Wool, Blue 1583 AESC 82-9 Cloth, Satin AESC 85-4 Cloth, Satin, Polyester

DRAWING

Air Force Jacket, Mess Dress, Women's Blue 1583

HANDBOOK

Optional Uniform Certification and Quality Control Program

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in connections with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

2.2 Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the document which are DOD adopted are those listed by the DODSSP cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODSSP are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TECHNICAL MANUAL

Test Method 88B Smoothness of Seaming Fabrics

(Application for copies of the AATCC Technical Manual should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1 Davis Dr., P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709-2215 or www.aatcc.org <http://www.aatcc.org>.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

ASTM D 204 Standard Methods of Testing Sewing Threads

ASTM D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard

ASTM D 3951 Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (DOD adopted)

ASTM D 5749

ASTM D 6193 Stitches, Seams and Stitching

ASTM D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbour Dr, West Conshocken PA 19428-2959 or www.astm.org <http://www.astm.org>.)

THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)

ANSI/ASQC-Z 1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Application for copies shall be addressed to THE American National Standards Institute, 1819 L St NW, Washington DC 20036 or www.ansi.org <http://www.ansi.org>.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 Samples. Samples are furnished only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this

Purchase Description may appear in the sample, in which case this Purchase Description shall govern.

Except for such variations, the design, appearance, quality, construction and workmanship in all respects not covered by this Purchase Description shall be equal to the sample (see 6.2).

3.2 End Item/Sample Approval.

3.2.1 Approval. Approval of end item/sample shall be in accordance with the provisions outlined in the USAF

Optional Uniform Quality Control Program Handbook.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic Material for Jacket.

3.3.1.1 The basic material for the jacket shall conform to Purchase Description AESC 82-2, Cloth, Tropical, Polyester/Wool. The color shall be Blue 1583.

3.3.1.2 Shawl Collar Facings. The material for the shawl collar facings shall conform to Purchase Description

AESC 82-9, or Purchase Description 85-4, Shade Blue 1160. The color shall match the color of the basic material for the jacket, Blue 1583.

3.3.2 Rayon Material. The material for lining the body, sleeves, inside pocket, facings, and armhole shields shall be rayon lining cloth conforming to Class 1, MIL-C-368. The color shall match the color of the jacket.

3.3.3 Interlining for Fronts and Facings.

3.3.3.1 Fronts. The interlining shall be Cloth, Cotton Warp and Spun Hair-Wool Filling conforming to A-A-

52015or a good commercial black fusible interlining.

3.3.3.2 Facings. The interlining shall be lightweight, fusible, non-woven, black of good commercial quality.

3.3.3.3 Cotton Wigan Cloth. The material for the sleeve bottom interlining shall conform to Type I of A-A-52097, except that the requirement for breaking strength shall not apply. The color of the material for the sleeve bottom interlining shall be black, or a fusible lightweight cloth that is suitable for the purpose intended and of good commercial quality.

3.3.4 Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type III, Class 4 of MIL-P-15064 or shall be commercially made needle punch shoulder pads that conform to all of the applicable requirements for Type III, Class 4 of MIL-P-15064, except for the following requirements: The commercially made needle punch shoulder pads shall consist of three plies of polyester wadding that is 4.5 ounces per square yard and one ply of interlining that is 5 inches long by 2 ¼ inches wide. The interlining shall be placed between the top ply and the second ply of the polyester wadding.

3.3.5 Sleeve Head Pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.6 Stay Tapes. The tape shall be preshrunk, unbleached, woven, cotton tape, conforming to Class 1, Type 1 of

A-A-52071. The width shall be 1/4" for staying armhole, the neck and the gorge.

3.3.6.1 Cross-cut Tape. The cross-cut tape for the fronts of the coat shall be made of cotton silesia cloth. The cotton silesia cloth shall conform to Class 1 of A-A-52106, except that the requirements for nonfibrous material, seam efficiency and colorfastness shall not apply; that the cloth shall be undyed or dyed; and that the cloth shall be 4.0 ounces per square yard. The cotton silesia cloth shall be cut across the width in strips that are ½ inch (plus or minus 1/16 inch) wide. The ends of the strips shall be abutted or overlapped and stitched with diagonal stitching. The diagonal stitching shall be a minimum of 8 stitches per inch with a bight (throw) of 1/8 to 3/16 inch. The edges of the cross-cut tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling.

3.3.6.2 Hanger Tape. The braid for the coat hanger shall conform to Type III, MIL-B-371. The color shall meet the colorfastness requirements, except for laundering, perspiration and chlorine bleach. The braid shall also show good colorfastness to wet cleaning when tested as specified.

3.3.7 Floating Chest Piece. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to type XVIII of MIL-C-15065

(haircloth), Class 2 of A-A-52105 (hymo) and type III, Class 11A of A-A-50823 (felt).

3.3.8 Sleeve Braid. The braid for the sleeve shall conform to

No braid is authorized on Class 2 Coat.

Class 1 Coat Braid width: General Officers - 3/4 inch wide Officers - 1/2 inch wide

3.3.9 Thread. The thread for the temporary basting shall be a commercial cotton or the same thread used in seaming of the garment. The color of the thread should be a good match to the basic fabric. The thread for seaming and stitching the coat shall conform to A-A-52094, A-A-50196 and to Tables I and II.

TABLE I - THREAD, COTTON

USE TYPE TICKET NO. PLY

Seaming of Jacket IC2 A, B 3 Blindstitching IC2 50 2 Seaming Front Interlining IA2 or IB2 70 2 Sleeve and Armhole Tacking IA2 or IB2 30 3 Button Sewing IA3 or IB3 20 4

TABLE II - THREAD, SILK

LETTER SIZE

USE TYPE CLASS DESIGNATION PLY

Machine Stitching, Felling I A, B 3 Hand Felling III 3 A, C 2

3.3.10 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type I, Style I, of MIL-B-3461. The buttons shall be 20-line size with tunnel, self-shank for the decorative buttons.

3.3.11 Silesia. The material for the stays shall be black and conform to Class 1 of A-A-52106.

3.4 Design. The jacket shall be single breasted with three decorative buttons on each side of the jacket front.

The jacket shall have a shawl collar, a center back seam, two loops on each shoulder (Class 1) to support the shoulder boards, for officers, and an inside breast pocket.

3.5 Patterns. A pattern is available for guidance in manufacturing and for a basic size. Patterns shall be graded to other sizes by the manufacturer in accordance with good commercial practice. It is incumbent upon the manufacturer that the finished garment conform with the finished Table of Measurements. The patterns include guides for assembling and directional lines for cutting. The supplier may adjust the pattern to suit his method of manufacturing, but shall maintain the basic design in all details.

3.6 Stitches, Seams and Stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table III shall conform to

ASTM D6193. Whenever two or more methods, seams or stitches are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used.

3.6.1 Thread Breaks and Ends of All Seams. Ends of seams and stitchings produced with Stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be securely backstitched not less than 1/4". Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break 1/2". Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 seaming may be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.6.1.1 Fusing. Fusing operations shall be in accordance with the procedures recommended by the producers of the fusible materials.

3.7 Identification of Product. Each jacket shall have a certification label, contractor's label, size label and a wool products label, if required.

3.7.1 Contractor's Label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent coated, conforming to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-DTL-

32075. The label shall finish not less than 2" wide by 2-1/2" long (the printing shall be along the 2-1/2" length) and show the following information:

Contractor's Name: *

Contract Number: *

Contract Date: *

Size: **

Name:

Serial Number:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when the labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using a permanent type black ink after labels are printed.

3.7.1.1 Certification Label. The label shall be in accordance with the provisions outlined in the USAF Optional

Uniform Quality Control Program Handbook, dated September 1981 and Bulletin No. 1, dated 28 January 1982.

3.7.2 Removable Size Ticket. The removable hard paper size ticket shall be approximately 1-1/2" wide by 2" long and be of a regular commercial hard paper construction with two holes at each corner. The letters and numerals shall be not less than 3/8" in height. The paper size ticket shall be tacked at all corners to the lower part of the left sleeve, at cuff, on the outside. The ticket will show the size of the coat, for example:

12 12 12 Short Regular Long

3.7.3 Paper Pin Ticket. The manufacturing pin ticket, which shows the size of the jacket, shall be tacked or stapled inside the inside breast pocket.

3.7.4 Wool Content Label. Each jacket shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act of

1939. Legend may be incorporated into contractor's label.

TABLE III

List of Pattern Parts Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Name Cut Parts

Tropical Polyester/Wool Front CTRFRONT_OS 2 Side Front SIDEFRT_OS 2 Back CENTERBK_OS 2 Side Back SIDEBACK_OS 2 Undersleeve UNDERSLV_OS 2 Top Sleeve TOPSLV_OS 2

List of Pattern Parts (cont)

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Name Cut Parts

Cloth, Satin Front Facing FRTFAC_SATIN 2 Rayon Lining Cloth Front FRONT_LIN 2

Back CENTERBK_LNG 2 Side Back SIDEBACK_LIN 2 Top Sleeve TOPSLV_LIN 2 Undersleeve UNDERSLV_LIN 2 Armhole Shield UNARMSHLD_LN 4 Inside Pocket POCKET_LNG 2

Canvas/Fusible Interlining Fronts FRONT_FUS 2 Side Fronts SIDEFRT_FUS 2 Top Sleeve Turn Up TOPSLV_FUS 2 Undersleeve Turn Up UNDSLV_FUS 2 Lapel Facing FRTFAC_FUS 2 Floating Chest Piece (Canvas) FLCHESTPC1 2 Floating Chest Piece (Padding) FLCHESTPC2 2

Shapers

Working Lapel WRKNG_SHAPER 1

SEWING OPERATIONS - TABLE NO. IV

NO.

DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

THREAD

TOP LOWER

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM AND

STITCHING

STITCHES

PER INCH

1.

2.

Cutting of Jacket The cloth shall be sponged before cutting using the cold water method.

a. The material shall be spread face to face, one ply of material shall be over and against the face of the next ply.

The spread of cloth shall not be more than 80 single plies (40 coats high).

b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and lengths and care shall be taken in spreading of the material that the plies are not stretched or full, and that one side of lay is even. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

c. The Jacket shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show size, also notches for proper assembling of all parts . Perforated paper markers shall not be used on the wool tropical cloth. The use of a felt-back paper machine is permitted.

d. All component parts of the Jacket shall be cut out of one piece of material.

e. The shoulder loops shall be cut across the width of the material.

f. Replace at the time of cutting any parts containing holes or weakening defects, such as smashes and slubs, likely to develop into a hole.

g. Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews, which may be expected to develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, burns and exposed drill holes.

Cut Rayon Lining

a. The cloth, rayon lining for the body of the jacket, sleeves, and armhole shields shall be cut in the direction of the warp and in strict accordance with patterns furnished. Sleeve linings may be cut out of ends.

b. When sleeve linings are cut from ends, the parts shall match and the sleeves shall match each other.

c. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the jacket.

SEAM AND

3.

4.

5.

Cut Trimmings

a. The canvas cotton warp worsted spun hair filling/fusible material for jacket fronts shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

b. The sheeting/fusible material for sleeve terminals shall be cut on the bias.

c. Use felt for fronts.

OR

Fused sections. Fusible material parts shall be cut slightly smaller than shell body sections to which they are fused.

Care shall be taken to catch the applied fusible material in the joining seams. Fusing operations shall be in accordance with procedures recommended by the fusible producer. If the fronts are fused, the fronts shall not be constructed with chest piece fused to the fronts.

A floating chest piece composed of a fusible shoulder piece, a canvas breast plate and a flannel piece shall be properly tapered with no puckering. Full width seam allowances shall be maintained for side front seams and the darts in order to retain shape. The front facing shall be fully fused.

Shade Marking

a. Except for those parts cut from ends, all component parts of the jacket shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. In addition, the rayon lining for sleeves, shall be marked to insure uniform shade.

b. The numbering shall at all times start from the same position for all parts, for example, if the ply number 1 is used for the top ply, then the top and the next ply below facing the top ply must be number 1 for all parts.

c. The use of metal fastening devices for shade marking is permitted on wool cloth, but they shall not be used on the rayon linings.

Make Loops for Shoulder Boards

a. There shall be two loops on each shoulder to support the shoulder boards. The back end of the loop shall be caught within the shoulder seam. The front end of loop shall extend over the front shoulder of jacket.

NOTE: Stitching shall be securely bartacked at either end of the front end.

SEAM AND

6.

b. Fold material to the center, with the edges abutting and double stitched 3/16 inch to 1/4 inches with cover stitch on the underside.

c. The finished loops shall measure 1/4 inch wide by 1-1/4 inches long for the loop nearest the armhole and 1/4 inch wide by 1 inch for the loop nearest the neck.

Make Sleeves *

a. Join the inseam of the sleeve distributing fullness between the notches.

b. Press the inseam open and flat with a heated pressing iron, holding the seam short.

c Stitch the sheeting piece to the underarm seam. The bottom edge of the sheeting shall be ½ to ¾ inch below the turn-up notches.

d. Press the turn up of the bottom of the sleeves as indicated by the notches.

e. Join the back arm seam of the sleeves.

f. Press the back arm seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron.

g. Blindstitch the turn up of the sleeve to the sheeting.

h. Join the back arm seam and the inseam of the sleeve lining respectively.

i. The sleeve linings shall extend not less than 3/4 or more than 1 inch above the top of the sleeve. Tack the inseam and the backarm seam of the sleeve lining.

Tacking shall extend from not more than 5 inches below the top to not more than 5 inches above the creased bottom edge. Both ends of the stitching shall be backstitched with not less than 3 stitches.

j. Baste the turn up of sleeve lining. Sleeve lining shall have not less than a 1 inch turn up.

* When specified, sleeve ornamentation shall be sewn (at the time of fitting to individual customer) around each sleeve, 2-1/2 inches from the finished bottom with ends caught in the backarm seam. Stock garments shall have unfinished sleeve bottoms and be accompanied by sufficient braid. Care should be taken with basting or tacking sleeve lining to basic fabric to prevent needle holes showing on the face.

A

50/2

30/2

103 or 301 or Hand

Machine

SSa-2

SSa-2

SSa-1

EFc-1

10-12

12-14

6-14

4-6

1-2

½ to 1

SEAM AND

7.

8.

Make Floating Chest Pieces for Fronts

a. Each floating chest piece the for coat front shall consist of a combination canvas and padding piece which extends to the shoulder and armhole.

b. Place the padding part of the floating chest piece on top of the canvas part with the armholes even.

c. Zigzag stitch on front and bottom edges of padding.

Place an additional row of zigzag stitching vertically through center of chest piece.

Make Body Lining and Right Inside Pocket

a. Place one ply of the pocket lining on the right side of the front lining in accordance with the marks and sew from notch to notch, 3/8 inch from the edge.

b. Cut at the notches and fold to the inside of the lining.

c. Position the other ply of the pocket to the pocket lining and stitch around the pocket 3/8 inch from the edge. Tack the pocket at the notches.

d. Join front linings to facings with a 3/8 inch seam.

e. Seam the vertical dart on the front linings the full length of dart with a 1/4 inch seam with the dart tapering at top end.

f. Join side back linings to centerback linings with a 3/8 inch seam

g. Join center back linings with a 3/8 inch seam.

h. Seam back linings to front lining at side with a 3/4 inch seam.

i. Form and stitch the pleat at the front and back of the shoulder as indicated by the pattern, or pleats may be formed when basting the lining.

j. Press all lining seams to one side. Press facing darts open and flat.

k. Join facing at center back with a 3/8 inch seam.

70/2

70/2

SEAM AND

9.

9.1

10.

11.

Make Fronts.

a. Seam the vertical dart on the side fronts, the full length of dart with 1/4 inch seam, with the dart tapering at top end.

b. Seam vertical dart on the center fronts with a 3/8 inch seam, starting 3/8 inch from the shoulder seam tapering at bottom end.

c. Seam side front panels to center front panels with a 3/8 inch seam.

d. Press all seams open and flat, seams to be held short in pressing operation.

Make armhole shields

a. Seam the edge of armhole shields with a 3/8 inch seam.

b. Turn and work out edges.

c. Press the shields smooth and flat.

NOTE: Armhole shields shall be made of two pieces of rayon material.

Make Backs

a. Seam center back panels to side back panels with a 3/8 inch seam.

b. Join backs at center back with a 3/4 inch seam.

c. Press all seams open and flat, seams to be held short in pressing operation.

Join Side Seams

a. Seam back panels to front panels with a 3/4 inch seam.

b. Seam a 1/4 inch tape from edge of side seam on front of armhole to within 4 inches of shoulder seam.

c. Seam a 1/4 inch tape from edge of side seam of back to within ¾ inch of shoulder seam, holding tape tight to draw material.

d. Press seam open and flat and press tape.

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

12.

Attach Floating Chest Pieces to Fronts

a. Match and fit chest pieces to fronts, keeping the chest pieces slightly full to support shape of fronts.

b. Left and right fronts shall have like bust fullness. Any stretch in the seaming of fronts shall be shrunk before fronts are joined to chest pieces.

Hopper

SEAM AND

13.

14.

15.

c. Baste from below the shoulder through the center of bust to the bottom of the coat, baste around the armhole, baste along the breakline of the lapel, continuing down the front edge 1 ½ inches from the edge.

d. Baste on the bridle tape, holding in proper fullness.

Place two rows of blindstitching on the bridle tape and five rows on the lapels of the jacket, working fullness into the interlining to permit lapels to roll.

e. Tack chest pieces to seam allowance of side front seam, starting 4 inches from the bottom and up for 4 inches.

f. The right and the left fronts shall be pressed individually to conform to the shape of the body.

Join Shoulder Seams

a. Mark position of shoulder loops as follows: One loop approximately 1-1/4 inches from raw edges of armhole and the second loop approximately 2-1/8 inches from the raw edges of neckhole.

b. Join the shoulder seams of jacket, with a 3/8 inch seam catching the shoulder loops, working in proper fullness indicated by notches.

c. Press shoulder seam of coat open and flat, holding the shoulder short, with a heated hand iron or pressing machine over a suitable block.

Join Shawl Under Collar

a. Join shawl under collar at center back with a 3/8 inch seam.

b. Overlap the edges of collar interlining at center back and place a stitch down the center.

c. Press collar seam open and flat. Press interlining seam flat.

d. Pad collar interlining to collar with 5 rows of stitching, work fullness into interlining to cause collar to roll.

Join Undercollar to Back

a. Seam undercollar to back, around neck opening with a 3/8 inch seam.

b. Press seam open and flat.

101 or

Hand 101 or

SSm-1

LSa-1

2-4

SEAM AND

16.

17.

18.

19.

Shape Fronts and Collar

a. Press fronts.

b. Reshape fronts and collar, using a lapel and collar shaper.

c. Reshape bottom of jacket.

d. Trim the interlining from the edges of the lapel fronts and collar 5/16 inch.

e. Mark the turn-up indicated by the notches at the bottom and trim excess material from jacket. Trim interlining at bottom, 1/4 inch from turn-up.

Attach Facing to Fronts

a. Match and fit center seam of shawl collar to center seam of back.

b. Baste facings to jacket and shawl collar with fullness over shoulder and at base of lapel.

c. Baste facing taut across bottom edge and both fronts.

Tape Front Edge and Bottom

a. Place a stitch across the bottom of the jacket, just below turn-up, over to where facing begins; place tape in position and continue to stitch across bottom, up front and lapels, around collar and down other side to where facing stops. Tape should be held slightly tight in seaming.

b. Fell back edge of the tape to the jacket on the fronts, lapel and collar.

c. Pull the basting.

d. Press the edges flat and smooth, and press the edge seams open.

e. Trim and turn the coat. Work out the lapels and the bottom corners of the fronts and collar.

Baste Edges and Bottom

a. Baste edges of collar and front.

b. Turn facing back and blind stitch seam allowance of fronts and collar to the fronts of the jacket to prevent edge from rolling.

3-4

SEAM AND

20.

21.

22.

23.

c. Turn up bottom of coat as marked and baste edges and bottom.

d. Place a second row of basting on turn up of back.

Baste Facing Along Fronts (Second Basting)

a. Baste the facing and collar 1 inch from the edge.

b. Place a row of basting stitches 2-½ inches from edge at bottom, continue to collar, placing proper fullness in lapel.

c. Baste along the breakline of the lapel, and shawl collar, allowing fullness in the facing to permit the lapel to roll.

d. Baste along the back edge of the facing, putting fullness over the chest and collar.

Facing to Canvas

a. Tack the back edge of the facing to the canvas with one row of blind-stitching from 2-½ inches from the shoulder seam to 2-½ inches from the bottom.

b. Tack turn up at bottom from edge to edge.

Set Shoulder Pads

a. Center shoulder pads on each shoulder with edge of pads even with armhole and sleeve seam edges.

b. Tack shoulder pads around curved edges through pad and edges through pad and interlining.

Fit and Baste Lining of Coat

a. Baste around the armhole and down the side seam to the bottom and across the bottom.

b. Place a fold in center seam of lining and baste down to bottom, starting 4 inches from top collar in the back.

c. Trim off excess lining at the bottom, allowing 1 inch turn up.

d. Turn in bottom of lining and baste to jacket. The basting shall allow tolerance for felling of bottom.

e. Tack neck hole and hanger.

hand

2-3

SEAM AND

24.

25.

26.

27.

f. Turn under edges of the back lining at the shoulders, the bottom edge of undercollar catching hanger and baste upper part of each shoulder. Continue basting across the neck at the back.

Fell Lining

Fell the bottom of the lining with a blindstitch.

Set in Sleeves

Match and stitch in the sleeves, notch to notch, with a 3/8 inch seam, distributing the fullness.

Press Armhole Seam

Press fullness of the sleeve flat all around the armhole and open the seam across the top, from the back notch to not less than 4 inches forward of the shoulder seam.

Baste and Tack Armholes

a. Baste along the shoulder seam from the center of the shoulder to the armhole seam, bringing the shoulder seam forward at the armhole seam and tack with three stitches at the armhole end of the shoulder seam. Baste around the outside of the armholes, positioning the lining and the shoulder pad and the back of shoulder in proper place. Baste the balance of the shoulder lining. The back part of the armhole may be basted from the lining side.

b. Tack securely all around the armhole. The tacking shall be back stitched every other stitch, from the front notch to the side seam, across the top of the armhole.

c. Tack the base of the armhole from the sleeve notch on the front side seam.

d. Trim away excess lining and interlining.

e. Tack the sleeve head wadding to the armhole from the front sleeve notch to the back seam of the sleeve. The sleeve head wadding shall be positioned with the folded edge adjacent to the edge of the armhole, the backing cloth side against the sleeve and in such a manner to cause it to fold on itself. The tacking shall be adjacent to the armhole seam and fullness shall be properly distributed. The tacking shall be backstitched every other stitch.

Silk

B

30/3

30/3

B

EFc-1

2-4

6-8

2-3

SEAM AND

28.

29.

Complete Hand Felling and Clean Jacket

a. Hand fell the lining all around the armholes catching the armhole shields and backstitch the pit of the armhole from the forearm seam of the sleeve to the side seam.

OR

As an option, the sleeve lining may be stitched to the armhole on the inside from the forearm seam of the sleeve to the backarm seam across the undersleeve using a 301 stitch. Top portion may be felled from the outside by machine (simulated hand felling stitch).

b. Fell the lining of the shoulder and neck, the corner of the linings and the facings at the bottom and the turn up of the sleeve linings.

c. Tack the fold of the lining pleat 2 inches from the bottom.

d. Press edge and bottom of jacket.

e. Pull the basting threads.

f. All ends of stitching shall be trimmed and loose threads shall be removed from the coat.

g. Remove all spots and stains. Remove shade tickets.

Put two, with wire removed, in the lower right pocket.

Pressing Jacket

a. Between the first pressing operation and completion of pressing, place the jacket on a hanger.

b. Press the edges (edge pressing machine). The press machine shall be adjusted for the silk facing.

c. Press the fronts (breast machine).

d. Press the backarm and the forearm seams of the sleeve (sleeve seam machine or back machine).

e. Press the back (back machine).

f. Press the collar (collar machine).

g. Press the armholes and the shoulders (shoulder machine).

h. Crease the armhole solid on the inside of the armhole (armhole machine).

i. Block the armholes, the top sleeve shall be shrunk in.

C

SEAM AND

30.

31.

32.

j. Press the lapels by hand.

Finish Press

a. Press the lining smooth with a pressing hand iron.

b. Remove gloss, wrinkles, creases, spots, and impressions on the fronts under the lapels and the collar.

c. When a sleeve seam machine is not used, finish press to remove the creases of the sleeve.

d. Brush the coat and examine.

e. Touch up any spots missed by the machine pressing.

Mark Front for Buttons

a. Mark the location of the three buttons on the right and left front, as indicated on the pattern.

b. The buttons on the right and left fronts shall be on a line.

Sew on Buttons

a. Sew three 20-line buttons on the right and left fronts as indicated on the patterns and with the stitches caught through the interlining.

b. The buttons shall be sewed on with the eagle on the button up right.

c. Sew buttons by hand, the sewing shall be backstitched with not less than two (2) stitches and ends shall be hidden.

20/4

4 per Button Double Thread

TABLE V - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Short Length

2 15 17 21-3/8 4 15-1/2 17-1/8 21-1/2 6 16 17-1/4 21-5/8 8 16-1/2 17-3/8 21-3/4 10 17 17-1/2 21-7/8

12 17-3/4 17-5/8 22-1/16 14 18-1/4 17-3/4 22-1/4 16 19 17-7/8 22-7/16 18 20 18 22-11/16 20 21 18-1/8 22-15/16 22 22 18-1/4 23-1/16 24 23 18-3/8 23-1/4

Regular Length

2 15 18 22-3/8 4 15-1/2 18-1/8 22-1/2 6 16 18-1/4 22-5/8 8 16-1/2 18-3/8 22-3/4 10 17 18-1/2 22-7/8 12 17-3/4 18-5/8 23-1/16 14 18-1/4 18-3/4 23-1/4 16 19 18-7/8 23-7/16 18 20 19 23-11/16 20 21 19-1/8 23-15/16 22 22 19-1/4 24-1/16 24 23 19-3/8 24-1/4

Tolerance +/-1/4 +/-1/4 +/-1/4 Long Length

2 15 20 23-3/8 4 15-1/2 20-1/8 23-1/2 6 16 20-1/4 23-5/8 8 16-1/2 20-3/8 23-3/4 10 17 20-1/2 23-7/8 12 17-3/4 20-5/8 24-1/16 14 18-1/4 20-3/4 24-1/4 16 19 20-7/8 24-7/16 18 20 21 24-11/16 20 21 21-1/8 24-15/16 22 22 21-1/4 25-1/16 24 23 21-3/8 25-1/4

Tolerance +/-1/4 +/-1/4 +/-1/4 Extra Long Length

2 15 21 25-3/8 4 15-1/2 21-1/8 25-1/2 6 16 21-1/4 25-5/8 8 16-1/2 21-3/8 25-3/4

10 17 21-1/2 25-7/8 12 17-3/4 21-5/8 26-1/16 14 18-1/4 21-3/4 26-1/4 16 19 21-7/8 26-7/16 18 20 21 26-11/16 20 21 22-1/8 26-15/16 22 22 22-1/4 27-3/16 24 23 23-3/8 27-7/16

Tolerance +/-1/4 +/-1/4 +/-1/4

1. The ½-Waist measurement shall be taken from the front edge of coat, even with the middle button, to the back center seam. Tolerance is plus or minus 1/4 inch.

2. The Back Length measurement shall be taken from the lower edge of the undercollar seam to the bottom edge of the Jacket. (See Figure 4, Back View) Tolerance is plus or minus 1/4 inch.

3. The Hemmed Sleeve measurement shall be taken from top of armhole at the shoulder to bottom edge of sleeve. Tolerance is plus or minus 1/4 inch.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified, the supplier may utilize his own facilities or any commercial laboratory acceptable to the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the Purchase Description where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2 Inspection for Acceptance. Unless otherwise specified hereinafter, inspection shall be in accordance with

MIL-STD-1608

4.2.1 In-Process Inspection. Inspection will be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether operations or assemblies are performed as specified. The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material or service for which in-process inspection has indicated non-conformance.

4.2.2 End Items.

4.2.2.1 Individual Inspection As a final step in the supplier's production control Plan, before formation of a lot, each finished coat shall be buttoned on a model form and examined for the selected defects listed in MIL- STD-1608. Any coat that contains a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot.

4.2.2.2 Sampling Inspection. After the finished coats have been subject to the individual inspection specified in

4.2.2.1, the finished coats shall be subjected to sampling inspection. The sampling inspection shall consist of the end item examination and of the dimensional examination specified in MIL-STD-1608. The occurrence of defects during the sampling inspection shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect limit specified in MIL-STD-1608.

4.3 Examination of Preparation for Deliver. Shipping containers fully prepared for delivery shall be subjected to the examination of preparation for delivery requirements specified in MIL-STD-1608. The occurrence of defects during the examination of preparation for delivery requirements shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect limit specified in MIL-STD-1608.

4.4 Fusing Information. The following information must be provided to the Air Force before full certification can be completed:

a. Manufacturer and model of fusing equipment used to fuse.

b. Manufacturer and style number of fusible used. If more than one type of fusible is used, indicate by coat part.

c. Letter from the fusible manufacturer stating that the fusible used is appropriate for the Polyester/Wool fabric and that the garment manufacturer (or subcontractor) has the necessary equipment to apply the fusible in a satisfactory manner.

d. A report of bonding test results before and after five (5) dry cleanings from an approved testing laboratory conducted on samples fused using the above equipment. (See suggested sample of Fusing Test Report in paragraph 4.4.1)

e. If fusing is being done by a subcontractor, the above information must be provided by the subcontractor along with his address and telephone number.

4.4.1 Suggested Copy of Fusing Test Report. "All of the fusible interlinings (Style Number) which we have supplied to (Firm) for use in the Air Force/Mess Dress coat, conform to the requirements as indicated in Purchase Description YAPC 04-5 and 82-6. Our representatives have visited his plant and find his equipment satisfactory for use in applying fusibles in the manner we feel will yield a satisfactory bond for the end item intended. Enclosed are bonding test reports before and after 5 dry cleanings conducted on samples from (Firm) indicating that in our opinion, the bonding applications are satisfactory."

4.4.2 Fusing operations. Fusing operations should be in accordance with procedures recommended by the fusible producers. For your information, garments have been successfully fused with fusing press set at the following conditions:*

a. Temperature at the fuseline (between fabrics) 290 0 F - 300 0 F.

b. Pressure between pressing surfaces 5-6 P.S.I.

c. Pressing time 10-12 seconds.

In order to prevent damage, assembly and dart making should be done after fusing.

*It is recommended the fusing machine be checked at least twice a day and after each warmup period.

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY.

5.1 Packaging.

5.1.1 Level A. Each jacket shall be laid back down and a pad of 0.032" thick, non-bending paperboard conforming to Figure 3 shall be inserted into the jdcket so that it fits snugly into the collar and the shoulders. The left front shall be folded over the right front. The sleeves shall be folded in half. Each unit shall then be inserted in a close-fitting bag that is made of 0.003" gage polyethylene conforming to Type I, Grade A, B or C, Finish 1, Class 1 of A-A-3174. All seams and closures shall be effected by heat sealing (see 5.3.1) and shall conform to the heat seal strength requirements of A-A-3174. Prior to or during the heat sealing operation, excess air shall be expelled to the extent necessary to permit packaging.

5.1.2 Level B. Each jacket shall be placed on a hanger and covered with a .003" gage polyethylene bag for shipment in a good quality commercial cardboard, stand-up, hanger-pack type box.

5.1.3 Level C. The jackets shall be packaged in a manner that will afford adequate protection against deterioration and damage during shipment.

5.2 Packing.

5.2.1 Level A. Fifteen jackets of one size only, packaged as specified, shall be packed flat in a box conforming to class - domestic, Size 3A of MIL-B-17757. The minimum bursting strength of the fiberboard shall be 275 P.S.I. All flaps of the box shall be securely sealed with an adhesive, commercially used for the specific product being packed, by applying the adhesive throughout the entire areas of contact between the flaps or by a combination of metal stitching the bottom flap and sealing the top flaps with adhesive.

5.2.2 Level B. Twenty individual jackets shall be packed in a good quality, commercial, cardboard, stand-up, hanger-pack type box, made specifically for shipment of garments on hangers (min. 300 P.S.I.). The hangers shall be secured to the hanging rod to prevent their coming off during shipment. All flaps shall be securely sealed with metal stitchinc tape or a commercial adhesive. As far as practicable, jackets of one size only shall be packed in containers, which together with packaging, wrapping and inner packing, conform to carrier rules and regulations as applicable to the mode of transportation selected.

5.2.3 Level C. The jackets shall be packed in a commercial type of fiberboard container in a manner that will insure safe transportation at the lowest rate, to the point of delivery. Each container shall meet Consolidated Freight Classification Rules or regulations of other carriers applicable to the mode of transportation selected.

5.3 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order (see 6.2), the interior and exterior packages shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

5.3.1 Additional Marking. Before sealing the polyethylene bag (see 5.1.1), a paper label printed black on white shall be placed inside the bag, so that it is readable through the polyethylene bag. The label shall contain the nomenclature and the size of the jacket contained therein.

5.3.1.1 Mixed Sizes. Each shipping container packed with mixed sizes shall have a white paper label 5" by 4", securely attached to the end and side. The words "MIXED SIZES" shall be printed on the label and under these words shall be legibly printed the correct quantity and the size of each garment contained therein.

Toward the end of the contract, or when there are less than the quantity of the same size required per container, mixed sizes of jackets may be packed in the same container.

6. NOTES.

6.1 Intended Use. The jacket covered by this Purchase Description is intended for use as a component of the

Mess Dress Uniform worn by women of the United States Air Force.

6.2 Ordering Data.

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Classification required (see 1.2).

c. Quantity required by size (see 1.4).

d. Availability of sample (see 3.1).

e. Requirements for First Article (see 3.2.1).

f. Any special markings required (see 5.3).

g. Requirement for finished sleeve or open bottom sleeve with contractor or furnish braid and wigan.

h. Selection of applicable packaging, packing and marking requirements specified herein (see 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3).

6.3 Color Shade Samples. Sample of USAF color shades may be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the Contracting officer.

6.4 Figures. Figures show general design and are for information only.

Preparing Activity:

HSG/YAPC

BACK

FRONT

Jacket – General Officers and Officers Figure 1

BACK

FRONT

Jacket – Enlisted Personnel

Figure 2

2 3/4

15 13/16

Dimensions are in Inches

Insert Paperboard

Jacket, Mess Dress, Women’s Figure 3