Atch 12 - Womens Mess Dress Jacket LOE YAPC 04-05..pdf

USAFA Letter of Exception 17 March 2022

P. D. APC 04-05

23 March 2007

USAFA LETTER OF EXCEPTION

JACKET, MESS DRESS, WOMEN’S BLUE 1583

The following exception will apply when Purchase Description AESC 82-3A is used to manufacture women’s blue mess dress jackets for the Air Force Academy.

1. Paragraph 3.2 and 3.2.1 End Item/Sample Approval. Substitute the following:

3.2.2 First Article. When specified (see 6.2), and before each production is commenced, the Contractor shall submit to the Contracting Officer, for approval, the following item:

One finished jacket, Size 12 Regular, conforming to the requirements of this specification.

2. Paragraph 3.3.3.3 Cotton Wigan Cloth. Substitute the following: The jackets shall have unfinished sleeve hems, see table on page 12 section J of Purchase Description.

The material for the sleeve bottom interlining shall be supplied and installed by the Cadet Tailor Shop at the United States Air Force Academy.

3. Paragraph 3.7.1, 3.7.1.1 and 3.7.3, Substitute the following:

Combination identification and size label. Each jacket shall contain a combination identification, size, and care label. The label shall conform to Type VI, Classes 1 & 2, of MIL-DTL-32075 for laundered items. The label shall finish 2” X 2 1/2”. The content and format of the label shall be as follows:

Mess Dress Jacket, Women’s, Cadet, Poly/Wool, 55/45 Cadet Name ____________________________________________________________

SSN __________________________________ SQDN _______________________

Size ____________**______________ Cert. No. ___________*__________ Contractors Name _____________________*__________________________________ Contract #___________*____________ Contract Date_________*________ Care Instructions: _________________________*______________________________

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor during printing.

**Applicable data to be stamped in by the contractor using permanent type black ink.

4. Amendment, Paragraph 3.7.2 Removable Size Ticket : Do not substitute at this time.

5. Table IV Sewing Operations, Section 5 Make Loops for Shoulder Boards.

Substitute the following:

FA700022Q0072

Attachment 12

P. D. APC 04-05

23 March 2007

a. There shall be two loops on each shoulder to support the shoulder boards. The loops’ back end shall not be imbedded in the shoulder seam. The front end of the loop shall extend over the front shoulder of the jacket.

b. The loops shall finish 3/8” wide. Fold the material to the center, with the edges abutting and double stitched 3/16” to 1/4” with a cover stitch on the underside.

c. The first loop closest to the armhole seam line, shall finish 1 3/8” long. The distance from this loop to armhole-seam line shall be located 1”. The opening of the loop shall be 1 1/4”.

d. The second loop, closest to the collar seam line, shall finish 1 1/8” long. The distance from this loop to the second loop shall be 3 ¼”. Opening of the second loop shall be 1”, see Figure #1

6. Table IV Sewing Operations, Section 6 MAKE SLEEVES, Paragraph i. Remove information regarding tacking the lining to the sleeve shell.

7. Figure 3: Location of Shoulder Loops For Women’s Mess Dress Jacket, substitutes Figure 1 of LOE.

8. Paragraphs 5.1 through 5.2.2, Packaging. Substitute the following: Made to measure jackets shall be hung with their corresponding skirt. Each ensemble (jacket and skirt), shall be packed 15 each per Hanger-Pack type box with dimensions 40 1/2” high, 21 1/2” depth, 16 1/2” to 18” wide, see Figure 2. The box shall have a bursting strength of 275 PSI, see Figure 3.

9. Paragraph 6.1: Intended Use: Substitute the following: “The jackets are intended for wear by female cadets at the United States Air Force Academy.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

USAF Academy CO 80840-8210 Cadet Uniforms (10LRS/LGRCU) USAF Academy CO 80840-8210

Reviewing Activity:

Chief, Cadet Logistics (10LRS/LGRC) USAF Academy CO 80840-8210

FIGURE 1

3 ¾”

2 ¾”

2”

Female Shoulder Loop Placement

9”

16”

3”

40”

16” 21”

21” 9”

3”

FIGURE 2

Top View

Left and right flaps are folded within the box up against the hangers, securing the hangers in place during shipment.

Note: Each ensemble (jacket and skirt) shall be packed 15 each per Hanger-Pack box.

Hanger Pack

275 PSI

BMA

THIS

DOUBLE WALL

BOX MEET ALL CONSTRUCTION

REQUIREMENT OF APPLICATION

FREIGHT CLASSIFICATION

BURSTING LBS PER

TEST SQ INCH

MIN COMB LBS PER

WT FACINGS M SQ FT

SIZE LIMIT INCHES

GROSS LBS

WT LT

Figure 3