Atch 3 - Womens Officer Service Coat PD YAGC 93-4 Rev 1..pdf

HUMAN SYSTEMS CENTER PURCHASE DESCRIPTION YAGC 93-4

HUMAN PROTECTION SYSTEMS PROGRAM OFFICE Revision 1 31 MAR 00 CLOTHING BRANCH Supersedes

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION YAGC 93-4

31 MAR 93

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

COATS, WOMEN’S, SERVICE POLY/WOOL SERGE

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification covers a service coat in one type.

1.2. Classification. The coat shall be of the following types and sizes:

Type I -Officer coat with shoulder epaulets Type II-Enlisted coat

1.2.1. Lengths and sizes. The coats shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

Schedule of Lengths and Sizes

Misses Short 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Regular 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

Womens Short 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Regular 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

2 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton or Polyester

Covered C-F-206 - Felt sheet, Cloth, Felt, Wool, Pressed V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button Staple (Plastic) V-T-285 - Thread, Polyester, Basting V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon

FA700022Q0072

Attachment 3

DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) DDD-T-86 - Tape, Textile; Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) PPP-B-636 - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard PPP-T-45 - Tape, Gummed, Paper, Reinforced and Plain, for Sealing and Securing

MILITARY

MIL-C-297 - (Hymo) Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic Warp MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-B-593 - Braid, Textile (Flat) MIL-C-823 - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar MIL-L-35078 - Loads, Unit: Preparation of Semiperishable Subsistence Items; Clothing, Personal Equipment and Equipage; General Specification For MIL-C-43718 - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton;

Polyester and Rayon, for pockets MIL-C-44192 - Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Pack) MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles MIL-I-45208 - Inspection System Requirements

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50823 - Felt, Sheet, White, Soft A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52105 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic Warp, and Spun-Hair Wool or Rayon Filling A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55187 - Braid, Textile (Flat)

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-731 - Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Women’s, Dress

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Naval Publications and Forms Center, (ATTN: NPODS), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.)

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.)

THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Standard Color Card of America

Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads

(Application for color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927. If color cards are not available for the Color Association, individual color samples may be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Guide sample. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.4). Variation from this document may appear in the sample, in which case this document shall govern.

3.3 Material. It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this specification.

3.3.1 Basic Material.

3.3.1.1 Serge cloth for outershell. The basic material shall be a 9.5-10.5 ounce blend of 55% polyester and 45% worsted wool serge cloth, Air Force Blue Shade No. 1620, conforming to MIL-C-823, type III, class 4.

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the fronts, sleeves, back, and facings for inside left and right breast pockets shall be rayon lining, 3.7 ounces per square yard, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The color shall be Blue 1086.

3.3.3 Buttons, uniform. The buttons for the front shall be 36 line, short shank back, conforming to Type I, Style 1, of MIL-B-3461. The stay buttons shall conform to V-B-871, Type II, 18 line, color black, style 15, except buttons may be melamine or polyester, with two holes. The buttons for the Type I shoulder epaulets shall be 25-line, short shank back, conforming to Type I, Style 1 of

MIL-B-3461.

3.3.4 Fusible interlinings.

3.3.4.1 Small parts fusible interlining. The lapel (front facing), back, side body, top sleeve, under-sleeve, top collar, pocket flap and chest welt, shoulder epaulet known as “small parts” shall use a black or charcoal, nonwoven fusible interlining. It shall conform to either type V or VI, class 1, styles A or B type VIII, class 1, style A of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed powder dot, paste dot, spunfused or sintered nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied to one side in accordance with good commercial practice.

Any given coat shall incorporate the same small parts fusible material. As an alternate, a black or charcoal, woven, lightweight fusible interlining for small parts, conforming to type I, class 1, style A of MIL-C-44296 may be used.

3.3.4.2 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat fronts shall be a black or charcoal napped woven twill material conforming to type II, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed dot type nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied to one side in accordance with good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate the same fronts fusible material.

3.3.4.3 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry-cleaning when tested as specified in table V, and minimum 24 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry-cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally the small parts fusible interlining will be accepted if it either begins to debond from the outer shell material, equivalent to the minimum bond strength or higher, and then splits from itself or if the small parts readily splits from itself at a minimum tear strength of 6.0 ounces (170) grams) per inch.

3.3.4.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show fastness to dry-cleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296, except when no standard sample is available, the finished fusible materials shall show “good” fastness to dry-cleaning.

3.3.4.5 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.3.4.6, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally, the interlining after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.3.4.6 shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning when tested as required in 4.4.3.1. All dry-cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering or delamination.

3.3.4.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electronically heated conveyor type fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A stream sourced fusing press shall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and front fusibles together.

Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, eveness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on figure 1.

3.3.5 Pocketing cloth. The material for inside breast pockets, shall be polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon matching the shade of the basic material or dyed black, and shall conform to class 2 of MIL-C-43718 except that the nonfibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply.

3.3.6 Undercollar material. The material shall be a wool blend felt-fabric composite, USAF Blue. Shade No. 1620, conforming to MIL-C-29137.

3.3.7 Floating chest piece. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to type XVIII of MIL-C-15065 (haircloth), Class 2 of A-A-52105 (hymo) and type III, Class 11A of A-A-50823 (felt).

3.3.8 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination size-identification label, a size label and instruction labels shall conform to DDD-L-20 and shall show “good” fastness to dry-cleaning.

3.3.8.1 Combination size and identification label. The combination label shall conform to DDD-L-20, Type VI, classes 1 and 2 combined.

3.3.8.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to DDD-L-20, Type VI, class 2.

3.3.8.3 Instruction label. The instruction label shall conform to DDD-L-20, Type VI, class 3. The letters for the caption shall be not less than 3/16 inch in height and all other lettering shall be not less that 1/8 inch in height .

The contents of the label shall be as follows:

COAT, WOMAN’S, AIR FORCE BLUE

1. Dry clean only, low moisture.

2. Remove wrinkles or gloss with a stream iron or with a hot iron using a damp press cloth.

3. Roll press sleeves and lapels.

4. Utility press only.

3.3.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064, or Type III, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064 except the width at the vertical center shall be 1/2 inch.

3.3.10 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064 and shall be 15 inches long.

3.3.11 Stay tapes. The tapes for staying the lower armhole, top back armhole and bridle shall be cotton, conforming to Type I, class 1, 2, or 3 of A-A- 52071, except that the nonfibrous material content shall not apply. The color shall be natural, bleached or black. The tape for the bridle shall be 1/2 inch wide. The tape for staying the lower armhole and top back armhole shall be 1/4 inch wide. The tape for staying the back neckline and top front armhole, shall be 1/2 inch wide, cross-cut tape, made from natural or dyed black polyester blend cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The raw edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling.

3.3.11.1 Fusible bridle tape. The fusible bridle tape shall be straight cut, dyed black or charcoal conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Class 2, Style A or B, with width of 3/4 (1/32) inch. The 3/4 inch edges shall be sewn using a Lsa-1 seam with a 304 stitch at 12-16 stitches per inch with 70/2 thread conforming to MIL-T-43548. All sewn edges shall be within the fusible dot area such that the adhesive will not exhibit any stitch breaks or blank areas on either side of the stitching. As an alternate, nonfusible tape, as specified in 3.3.11, may be used for the bridle.

3.3.12 Braid.

3.3.12.1 Hanger braid. The braid for coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular braid, flat, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371, and the color shall be black.

3.3.13 Thread.

3.3.13.1 Thread, polyester core; cotton-, or polyester-covered. The cotton or polyester-covered polyester score thread shall conform to A-A-50199. For seaming and stitching of coat, Ticket # 50 and # 70, 2 ply shall be used. For button sewing, Ticket # 30, 2 or 3 ply shall be used. The color of the threads shall be as indicated in 3.3.13.4.

3.3.13.2 Thread, nylon. The nylon thread used for stitching of the buttonholes and bartacks shall conform to Type I, Size B, Class A of V-T-295, and the color shall be as indicated in 3.3.13.4.

3.3.13.3 Thread, basting. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade, bleached or unbleached cotton, conforming to type I or type II of A- A-52094. As an alternate, polyester, size A, type I, class 1 of V-T-285 may be used (see 6.10.)

3.3.13.4 Color. The color of the polyester core or nylon threads shall be DoD Thread Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060, and the thread for tacking the armholes and attaching sleeve-head and pads shall be white or unbleached.

3.3.13.4.1 Colorfastness. All dyed thread shall show colorfastness to light and wet dry-cleaning, equal to or better than the standard sample. When to standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to light and wet dry-cleaning.

3.3.13.5 Automatic button sewing. And automatic machine which sews and sets the stay button with the buttons in one operation shall be used, the thread shall be polyester core: cotton-, or polyester-covered, 30/2 or 3, having a minimum polyester breaking strength of 4.5 pounds and a minimum length per unit weight of 6501 yards per pound and shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness (see 3.3.13.4.1) in accordance with the test methods as specified in A-A-50199.

3.3.13.6 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton size No. 8 conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.

3.3.13.6.1 Color and colorfastness. The color of the gimp thread shall be DoD Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060. The dyed gimp shall show colorfastness to wet dry-cleaning, equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show “good” fastness to wet dry-cleaning.

3.3.14 Sleeve braid. The Type I coats will have sleeve braid conforming to Type I, Class 3 of A-A-55187 and shall be Cable Color No. 70090. The braid shall be 1/2 inch wide, except for General Officer coats. Braid for General Officer coats only shall be 1-1/2 inches wide.

3.4 Design. The design is a single breasted, semi-fitted and fully lined coat with a three button front closure. The coat shall have two inside welt pockets and one simulated welt pocket in the upper left side of the chest. There shall be two lower simulated double welt pockets with flaps inserted in the welts.

All outside pockets are non-functional. The coat shall have a back vent. The coat is intended to be worn buttoned at all times and must present a professional appearance. Figures 3 and 4 show the front and back views of the coat, respectively. The Type I coat shall have shoulder epaulets with button and buttonhole.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns and shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide seam allowances as follows:

3/16 inch - For lapel and front edge seams (edge cut) 5/16 inch - For darts 3/8 inch - For all other seams and lining seams, unless otherwise indicated 5/8 inch - For side and back center seams 2-1/4 inch - For the coat sleeve bottom turn up 1-3/4 inch - For the lining sleeve bottom turn up 1-1/4 inch - For bottom hem turnup 2-1/4 inch - For lining bottom hem turn-up 3/8 inch - For shoulder epaulets (Type I)

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the coat shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated:

Material Pattern nomenclature Cut Parts .

Basic material Front 2 Side body 2 Back 2 Front facing 2 Top collar (block) 1

Top sleeve 2 Under sleeve 2 Breast pocket welt (block) 1 Lower flap (block) 2 Lower pocket piping 4 each Shoulder epaulet (Type I) 2

Cloth, rayon, lining Front 2 Side body 2 Back 2 Top sleeve 2 Under sleeve 2 Breast pocket piping 4

Cloth, polyester blend, for pockets Inside breast pocket 2

Fusible interlining cloth

Woven type fusible

Fronts 2

Non-woven type fusible

Lapel 2 Breast pocket welt 1 Lower flap (block) 2 Top sleeve piece 2 Under sleeve piece 2 Top collar 1 Side body (block) 2 Back Vent 2 Shoulder epaulet (Type I) 2

Cloth, wool, composite material

Undercollar (block) 1

Dies Breast pocket welt 2 Lower pocket flap 2 Upper lapel 1 Lower lapel 1 Top collar 5 Under collar 5 Side body fusible 2 Front armhole reinforcement 1

Markers

Buttonhole/button 1 Breast pocket 1 Collar shaper 1 Shoulder epaulet shaper 1 Upper pocket welt placement 1

3.6 Construction.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam, and stitching types and stitches per inch specified in table I, shall conform to FED-STD-751. Where two or more seam or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams will result.

3.6.1.1 Type 301 and 306 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be back-stitched or over stitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less that 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped no less than three stitches. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or needle thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.6.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching. Repairs of type 301 and 306 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors. Caution:

pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.6.1.2 Type 401, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.6.1.1.la and b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch type 301.

3.6.1.3 Type lOl and lO3 stitching. Tension of 101 stitch tacking shall be adjusted and maintained so there will be no loose stitching resulting in either loose underneath or top thread, or excessively tight stitching, puckering outward appearance of coats. The underneath loop shall be on the inside of the coat, unless otherwise specified in the table of operations.

3.6.1.3.1 Repairs of type lOl and lO3 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack or blindstitching in same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blindstitching. When repairing blindstitching, superimpose stitching l/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching.

3.6.2 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be the eyelet end, square bar, cut first type, reinforced with gimp. The purl of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the coat. The ends of the gimp shall be pulled through to the underside. The ends of the buttonhole stitching shall be tacked by machine, the width of the bar section, catching the ends of the buttonhole stitching in the gimp. The finished size of the buttonhole cut is specified in table I.

3.6.3 Bartacks. Bartacks shall measure 3/16 inch long, and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.4 Chest welt stitching. All vent and chest welt stitching shall be done with either polyester core: cotton-, or polyester-covered or nylon thread as specified in table I, however, only one type of thread shall be used in the vent and chest welt stitching of any one coat.

3.6.5 Marking. The component parts of the coat shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. No metal device or sew-on type markings shall be used on the rayon lining.

b. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coats shall be made by and with the use of all operations listed in table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations except that operation 6 must be performed before operation 7. Any additional basting or holding stitches used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided the thread does not show on the finished coat.

3.7.1 Pressing. Pressing specified in table I shall be performed by use of a heated pressing iron or machine as commercially used for dress coats.

3.7.2 Figures. Figures are furnished solely for guidance and information.

Should variation from the written document appear in the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.7.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in table I, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a government furnished template is forwarded, the component shall conform to that template.

TABLE I - Construction of Coat

No.

Description of Operation

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Stitches per Inch

Needle

Bobbin/ Looper

1. Cut basic material.

a. Spread the material without tension in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric. The cut parts in the top ply and in the bottom ply will match the patterns.

b. Lay the material in uniform widths and lengths. The plies shall not be stretched, pulled not full, and one side of the lay shall be even.

c. Cut coat parts in strict accordance with patterns which show directional lines, size, shape, placement of pockets, flaps, welt pocket, and notches for proper assembling of all parts. Upper welt pocket facing shall be cut from outershell material. Use of drill holes for pocket dart and flap locations are prohibited.

d. Cut all parts of the garment out of one piece of material. Cut front darts as indicated on pattern. Cut piping pieces in the warp direction.

e. The left front and front facing shall be trimmed in the front shaping operation

2. Cut lining.

a. Cut lining for body of coat, sleeves, back, and inside breast pocket facings in the direction of the warp, and in strict accordance with patterns furnished.

b. When sleeve linings are cut form ends, the parts shall approximately match the shade of the body lining and the sleeves shall match each other.

3. Cut trimmings.

a. Cut fusible interlinings in the same direction as parts to be fused.

Seam and

b. Cut pocketing cloth for inside breast pockets in the direction of the warp.

c. Felt fabric composite undercollar cloth shall be die-cut as indicated by directional lines on the patterns.

4. Replacement of damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages, as classified in MIL-STD-149O are excluded and replaced with nondefective and properly matched material.

5. Shade markings.

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings, including sleeve linings, whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be marked or ticketed to assure a uniform shade throughout the coat. Other parts cut from ends need not be shade marked. Any method may be used except as indicated in 3.6.5.

b. Identify test swatches (basic material and fusible interlining) that represent the every 1000 coat units of production (see 4.4.3.1).

6. Fusing (see 3.3.4 through 3.3.4.6

a. Fuse side body front armhole interlining with the armhole edge set back 1/8 inch and 3/8 inch from edge of side body to front joining seam. Fuse back vent.

b. Fuse small parts fusible interlining piece to top and undersleeve with the bottom edge of the fusible interlining l/8 inch from the bottom edge of sleeves and centered.

Seam and

c. Fuse small parts fusible to the top collar. Position top collar interlining centered on the top collar with 3/16 inch from all edges as indicated on pattern.

d. Fuse small parts fusible to the flaps, epaulets (Type I) and top welt aligned with corresponding notches on basic material.

e. Fuse small parts fusible to the left and right facings with the top of the fusible interlining l/8 inch from the top of the shell.

f. Fuse small parts and fronts fusible test swatches.

NOTE: Fused lots and test swatches shall be allowed to cool to the touch prior to bundle tying or testing.

7. Die cut small parts to final size after fusing

a. Pocket flaps.

b. Top collar.

c. Chest welt (option- may or may not be fused -- see operation llc.)

8. Attach armhole tape to back panels.

Sew 1/4 inch tape from l/2 inch below shoulder seam down beyond side seam, approximately 1/8 inch from edge along armhole seam allowance.

301 or

SSaa-1 Ssaa-1

10-14 10-14

9. Make darts and join side bodies to fronts.

Finished Appearance.

The fronts/side bodies shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats.

a. Seam the vertical cut dart of fronts with 5/l6 inch seam allowance.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

Seam and

b. Join side bodies to fronts matching notches with a 3/8 inch seam. Press seam open and flat.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

c. Press dart seams and side body seams open and flat holding front waist dart short and front of coat straight.

NOTE: The dart is not cut open all the way to the top, approx. l inch is left closed.

10. Attach armhole tape to front panels.

a. Sew 1/4 inch tape from side body to second notch approximately 1/8 inch from edge along armhole seam allowance.

301 or

Ssaa-1 Ssaa-1

10-14 10-14

b. Sew 1/2 inch crosscut tape from second notch up to 1/2 inch from shoulder seam approximately 1/8 inch from edge along armhole seam allowance.

301 or

Ssaa-1 Ssaa-1

10-14 10-14

11. Make breast welt, lower pocket flaps, and epaulets.

Finished appearance.

The breast welt and pocket flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished size chart (see operations 17 and 18). The seamed edges and corners of the flaps shall be well worked out and seams shall not be visible on the outside of the flaps.

a. Seam flap front and back edges with 3/16" to 1/4" edge cut. It is not necessary to notch.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

b. Turn and work out edges, points, and corners. The seams shall not show on the outside of flaps.

Seam and

c. Make top welt on an automatic cam driven or programmable machine, or stitch and turn welt before attaching.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

d. Press breast pocket welt and lower pocket flaps smooth and flat.

TYPE I ONLY

e. Fold each shoulder epaulet and stitch the raw edges of the side. Spread the seam off center and stitch the point of the shoulder loop.

301 or

Ssa-1 10-12 A A

f. Press the shoulder loop seam open and flat.

g. Turn the epaulet with the seam on the underside and off center, free of the buttonhole.

h. Press the shoulder epaulets smooth and flat.

i. Make a cut-first, machine buttonhole in the center of each shoulder epaulet, with the eye placed so that the edge of the button will be 1/4 (+1/4-1/8) inch from the collar edge when the coat is finished and pressed. The buttonhole shall be eyelet-end, square-bar type, worked over gimp to fit a 25-line button. Pull the gimp through the underside of the buttonhole.

Buttonh ole

52 per buttonhole not including tacks

B silk B or C silk

j. Bartack the buttonhole by machine. The bartack shall be a separate operation from the buttonhole making.

Bartack

21 per tack

A silk

A silk

k. The bartack at the end of the buttonholes may be done by hand and shall not be more than 3/16 inch long.

Hand

10-12 per tack

A nylon

12. Make collar.

The collar shall be uniform in appearance and the edges shall be smooth and flat without twisting, gathers, puckers, or raw

Seam and edges (top and sides). The composite undercollar shall be one piece.

a. Undercollar must be die-cut to conform to pattern template.

b. Sew stitchline to undercollar at breakline, using guide notches on undercollar; stand shall be l-l/4 (+ 1/8) inches at center.

301 sa-1 10-14 50 50

c. Machine fell top of top collar to finished undercollar with simulated hand felling.

Sew side edges to undercollar using stitch.

Mach

Ssa-1

6-10

10-14

d. Trim and turn collar.

e. Edge baste the top collar to undercollar along outer edge. Press collar flat.

101 2-4 70

f. Trim bottom (neck) edge of top collar even with undercollar from gorge edge to breakline notch and tapering out to 1/4 inch seam allowance at center back notch.

13. Make sleeves.

The sleeves shall be uniform in width. The seams shall be pressed smooth and flat and shall be without gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges.

a. Join forearm seam of sleeve, distributing fullness between notches.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

b. Press forearm seam open and flat. Do not hold taut.

c. Lightly press turnup bottom of sleeve as indicated by notches on pattern.

d. Join backarm seam of sleeves. 301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

e. Press backarm seam open and flat.

Seam and

f. Baste turn-up of sleeves. 101 or 103 or

Ssn-1 Ssn-1 SSn-1

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm Comm

g. Join backarm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining. The distance between the notches on the forearm seam shall be left open.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

h. Using a sleeve lining felling machine, position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of forearm sleeve seam and top of the backarm sleeve hem. Tack forearm seam and backarm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and backarm seam, respectively.

The backarm seam tacking shall extend from approximately the midpoint of the backarm seam to not more than 4 inches above creased bottom edge. The forearm seam tacking shall be to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.

401 Ssa-1 10-14 50 70

i. Pull sleeve through lining and baste turn-up of sleeve lining. Sleeve lining shall have not less than 1-1/4 inches turn-up.

101 2-4 Comm

j. Turn sleeves and assemble in pairs.

NOTE: Sleeve may be rolled pressed prior to hanging to facilitate check on balance of sleeve during sleeve setting operation.

14. Make front linings.

The lining shall finish without pleats or puckers. The pockets shall be positioned as indicated on patterns and of correct size.

a. Join lining side body fronts to lining fronts.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

b. Seam front lining to facings placing fullness on the lining to allow facing to lie smooth and flat match notches provided.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

Seam and

15. Make two inside breast pockets and attach combination size-identification and instruction label.

a. Pocket openings shall be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine which stitches, cuts, and turns stitched piped and edges in one operation. The lining for the piping may be trimmed to permit into the machine. The joining seam of the top and bottom piped edges shall be raise stitched through lining and coat facing prior to pocket closing, and top edge stitched through all pies. (If lock stitch type machine is used, the top edge stitch may be omitted.) Tack ends of pocket opening.

NOTE: When this machine is used, the contractor may utilize the machine manufacturer's recommended piping reinforcement material in addition to the pocketing cloth.

and

10-14 10-14

b. Seam instruction label to the right pocket on all four sides, to the lining through one ply cloth pocketing, positioned with top edge 1/8 to l/4 inch below joining seam of lower inside pocket piping at center of pocket opening.

301 or

Ssau-1 Ssau-1

10-14 10-14

c. Sew 1 ply of pocketing approximately 5 inches down from top along seam that joins facing and lining seam.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

d. Turn pockets into position and stitch sides and bottom edge of the pocket catching the pocket stay at front edge of pocket from top for the length of the stay. The finished pockets shall measure not less than 5-1/2 inches (+ l/4 - O) in depth for all sizes.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

16. Make backs and attach size label.

Finished appearance.

Seam and

The backs shall be joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The right vent and left vent shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, gathers or pleats.

a. Join center back with a 5/8 inch seam with stitching stopping approximately 3/8 inch below step and continue horizontally across vent step to l/2 inch before edge.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

b. Slash right seam allowance at top of vent and press back seam open. Fold back left vent in line with center seam and bottom notch, and press left vent.

c. Position 1/2 inch crosscut tape 1/8 inch from neckline edge of joined backs and stitch along tape.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

d. Join center back lining beginning at top notch, sew down approximately l inch, sew across to within 3/8 inch of edge, turn and continue down back lining stopping at the vent notch.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

e. Vent

(1). With vent notches of shell and lining even, sew down length of vent (starting at top of vent) turning up lining at first notch and bottom turnup at second notch then continue sewing to bottom.

SSd-1

(2). Turn the vent edge and edge stitch with lining not showing on outside of coat.

301 Sse-1 10-14 50 50

(3). Starting at lining seam at top of vent, sew right side of vent lining down the full length of the shell fabric.

301 Sse-1 10-14 50 50

f. Sew on hanger and size label to center of back at collar seam with the stitching through all plies.

301 Ssak-1 10-14 50 50

Seam and

Label shall be plainly visible. Hanger shall measure finished 2(+/- l/2)inches long.

17. Make fronts.

All darts and flaps shall be positioned and finished without pleats or gathers.

a. Mark fronts for position of breast welt and lower flaps as indicated by pattern.

b. Mark width of welt from foldline in accordance with finished measurements.

c. Stitch welt to front through all plies, as indicated by marks on pattern, catching pocket stay on the underside.

As an alternate, the top ply of the welt may be stitched to the front.

NOTE: When the alternate method is used the seam allowance of top ply of welt shall be turned up and stitched on the underside adjacent to the welt setting seam. Stitch through under ply of welt simultaneously catching the prestitched stay. In the finished coat the welt setting seam shall be spread open.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

d. The ends of welt seam allowance may be clipped.

e. Stitch pocket facing to front with stitching approximately l/2 inch from the seam joining top ply of welt to front.

301 Ssc-1 10-14 50 50

f. Cut opening of pocket between the two rows of stitching and tongue notch ends.

g. Turn welt and stitch corners 1/16 inch from edge along edges and 1/4 inch across top from corners. Stitch inside across bottom of welt to render inoperable. The

301 Ssc-1 10-14 50 50

Seam and finished length of the top welt shall be as follows:

18. Make two lower pockets.

a. Operation will be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine which stitches, cuts, and turns stitched piped edges in one operation.

The finished length of the pocket flap in the welt shall be as follows:

b. Insert the flap into the welt machine, so that the flap is an integral part of the welt attachment. The top edge of the welt shall be exposed across the top of the flap.

Sew on top and through the marked line as indicated on the pattern. Turn down flap over pocket opening and sew facing at all four sides to close pocket and render inoperable.

NOTE: If single thread chain stitch machine is used, a single needle lock stitch is required to reinforce the piping before closing pocket.

101 and

10-14 10-14

c. Trim the ends of the piping and pocketing material on the inside if necessary.

19. Baste floating chest piece to fronts.

a. Position floating chest piece as indica-ited by drill holes on front fusible interlining.

b. Baste across shoulder allowing room for setting shoulder pads. Baste around armhole 103 or Flatbed, and down back of chest piece.

101 or 103 or

Hopper, Flatbed, or Jump-baste

4-6 4-6 4-6

Comm

c. Position bridle tape adjacent to and l/8 inch behind breakline of each lapel. Fuse

101 or

Ssm-2 4-6 A A

Seam and bridle tape so that the center of bridle tape is placed on the edge of chest piece and to finish behind the breakline at a point l-l/2 inches from bottom of lapel (or front edge of fore part) or baste the tape for the bridle, holding the tape taut, position tape with fullness evenly distributed.

Note: The tape shall be adjacent to but behind the lapel breakline and shall extend from 1-1/2 inches from the shoulder seam to the shoulder seam to the button placket notch.

Hopper or hand

d. Blindstitch bridle tape to chest piece and front using one row of stitching along each side along bridle tape.

103 or

Blindstch Blindstch

4-6 4-6

20. Under press lapels and fronts, and shape labels.

a. After the bridle tapes are fused, the left and right fronts of coat shall be pressed individually, on left and right coat chest pressing machine respectively, to conform to the shape of the body. The front edge of forepart shall be straight.

b. Shape the lapels and fronts of coat.

c. Shaping of lapels, fronts, and trimming of front edge shall be performed with a clicker machine using dies conforming to pattern templates. Fronts may not be hand cut.

NOTE: When using dies, the left front must be dressed after the front edges are shaped.

21. Join side seams.

Join side seams with a 5/8 inch seam. Press seams open and flat on a buck type press.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

Seam and

22. Match and baste facings.

Match and baste facings to coat (first basting) putting in proper lapel and breast fullness. The facings shall be held slightly taut at bottom edges of foreparts.

NOTE: The stitches shall be no less than one stitch per inch to assure that the breast fullness and the tautness at bottom edges of forepart are maintained.

101 or 103 or

Hopper, Flatbed, or Jump-baste

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

23. Sewing Lapels and Front Edges.

a Stitch 3/16 inch from edge along lapel to bottom of the coat to back edge of facing.

301 or

Ssa-1 Ssa-1

10-14 10-14

b. Press edges flat and smooth, and pull basting threads.

24. Baste coat edges and bottom turn-up.

Edges, lapels, and corners shall be uniformly worked out. The blind-stitching of the turn-up at bottom shall not show through the outer side. Fullness shall be uniformly placed at lapel break to point, when basting along breakline and back edge of facing so that lapel will roll. The lower front edges shall close flat and smooth, without rolling outward.

a. Notch corner of lapel and rim around lapel and bottom corners of front edges.

Turn facings, work out lapels and bottom corners of fronts. Edge baste the right and left fronts using an edge basting machine shaping the lapel and front edge as required.

Note: When basting the facings, the stitches shall be no less than one stitch per inch to maintain the fullness over the breast, the

101 or 103 or

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

Seam and lapel roll, and to hold the lower front edge of forepart so as to roll inward.

b. Turn up bottom of coat as indicated by patterns, matching lengths of vent opening.

c. Baste stitch complete bottom turn-up of coat.

101 or 103 or

Ssn-1 Ssn-1 SSn-1

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

d. Baste facings along lapel front (second basting) l(+l/2) inch from edge, fronts to a point in line with top edge of top welt, holding lower corner of coat rolled in such a manner as to cause lower front edge of forepart to roll inward.

101 or 103 or

Ssn-1 Ssn-1 SSn-1

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

e. Baste along breakline of lapel, allowing fullness in facing, to permit lapel to roll

101 or 103 or

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

f. Baste back edge of facing, putting fullness over chest.

101 or 103 or

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

25. Sew shoulder pads.

Insert shoulder pads between plies of the chest piece (in pocket) and tack in to chest piece.

301 or

2-4 2-4

26. Tack facings to interlining.

Tack the back edge of facings to the interlinings with one row of blindstitching starting not more than 2-1/2 inches from shoulder seam stitching along outer ply of inside pocket stay and seam allowance of facing, to within 2 inches of bottom of coat.

101 or 103 or

Ssn-1 Ssn-1 SSn-1

2-4 2-4 2-4

27. Stitch bottom of coat.

Blindstitch turned up bottom of coat. 101 or

103 or

Ssn-1 Ssn-1 SSn-1

2-4 2-4 2-4

28. Baste lining.

Seam and

a. Turn in the bottom and back edge of lining and baste to body of coat; basting allow room for felling. The raw edge of lining at bottom hem shall be covered.

101 or 103 or

Ssn-1 Ssn-1 SSn-1

2-4 2-4 2-4

b. Trim the lining of armholes and shoulders with lining extending l/4 inch from shoulder point at neck and 1/2 inch at shoulder point at armhole; trim even at the lapel notch to a point extending 1/8 inch from gorge at step for lapel crease line to allow for gorge to settle even when lapel is turned and creased. The lining at armhole shall extend no less than l/2 inch to allow for insertion of sleeve head and shoulder pads.

29. Join shoulder seam.

The fullness on the back at shoulder seams shall be so placed that shoulder will attain correct shape as indicated by shoulder line on front pattern when finished.

Join shoulder seams of coat catching the front interlining in the seam and working in fullness in back.

301 or

Ssa-1 SSa-1

10-14 10-14

30. Press shoulder seam and set shoulder epaulets.

Finished appearance.

The shoulder seams shall finish flat and smooth without distortion and curved as indicated by the shoulder line on the front patterns.

a. Open and press shoulder seam over a suitable block.

TYPE I ONLY

Seam and

b. Baste or stitch the shoulder loops to the shoulder at the armhole. Trim even with the armhole. The point of the epaulet shall be even with the edge of the gorge outlet.

The back edge of epaulet shall be 1/2 (+1/8) inch behind the shoulder seam at the armhole. The finished shoulder epaulets shall be 2-1/8 (+1/8) inches wide at the sleeve head and 1-1/2 (+1/8) inches wide at the points of the narrow end.

31. Baste shoulder.

Baste shoulder to the chestpiece and neckline stabilizing chestpiece at top neck point. (first baste)

101 or 103 or

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

32. Join shoulder linings.

Join shoulder lining seams of coat, working in fullness on back.

301 or

Ssa-1 SSa-1

10-14 10-14

33. Baste shoulder and neckline.

Baste facing and lining to shell at neckline. (second baste)

101 or 103 or

1-2 1-2 1-2

Comm

34. Set collar

The collar shall finish centered on the back seam with the fullness distributed over the shoulder to conform to and hug the neck.

a. Mark outlet at neck with gorge shaper.

b. Seam top collar to front facing at gorge to a point not less than 1 inch back of lapel breakline. Notch facing at the end of joining seam.

301 Ssa-1

c. Spread open seam joining top collar to facing and tack the seam allowance of top collar to front at the gorge from lapel

301 Ssa-1

Seam and notch to the end of seam, catching bridle tape in the tacking.

d. Baste undercollar to coat, putting in fullness over the shoulder.

301 50

e. Fell the lower edge of undercollar top coat by machine. The raw edge of the undercollar shall be enclosed within the felling.

306 or

Lsa-1 Similar to Ssbd

8-12 10-14

35. Set in sleeves.

Finished appearance.

The sleeves shall set uniformly with fullness at front and back armhole distributed without pleats or puckers.

Set sleeves matching front sleeve notches with front armhole notches and back arm seam with back armhole notch, distributing the fullness in the front and back of armhole evenly.

301 or

Ssa-1 SSa-1

10-14 10-14

36. Press armhole seam.

Finished appearance.

The armhole seam pressing shall not stretch or distort the armhole.

Press seam open across top from l + l/4 inch above back arm seam to not less than 3 or more than 4 inches forward of shoulder seam, or seam may be pressed closed away from sleeve.

37. Fell bottom lining to coat bottom.

a. Fell lining around bottom of coat to coat shell from facings to vent. Lining shall finish l/2 inch from bottom.

306 Ssn-1 6-10 50

b. Hand tack to close left open spaces at hem bottom near facing corners.

38.

Baste and tack armholes.

Seam and

a. Baste around outside armholes, Hand or positioning lining, back, and shoulder pad and back of shoulder in place, putting fullness of back in place; or back part of armholes may be basted from the lining side.

Baste balance of shoulder lining.

Hand or

b. Sew all around armhole by machine or trimming away excess lining and interlining.

Insert sleeve head wadding to top of armhole from front sleeve notch to back seam of sleeve. The sleeve head wadding shall be positioned with folded edge adjacent to edge of armhole, backing cloth side against sleeve, and in such a manner as to cause the wadding to fold on itself. The tacking shall be adjacent to armhole seam.

Hand or

4-6 4-6

c. Stitch sleeve lining to armhole on inside from front sleeve notch to backarm seam across undersleeve.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 50

39. Complete sleeve felling.

a. Using the machine duplicated hand type felling stitches, the stitches shall be over the folded edge of the sleeve lining.

Felling is not to be accomplished by hand.

Machine simulat ed hand felling

b. The armhole lining shall be felled utilizing a sleeve lining felling machine that consists of a one needle, two thread feed off the arm machine equipped with a lower and upper feed.

c. Stitch the top sleeve lining to armhole on inside from the front armhole notch to top back arm lining seam across the crown of the top sleeve lining using the machine duplicated hand type felling stitches.

306 Ssa-1 10-14

d. Close the previous left opened forearm seam l/16 to 3/32 inch from edge.

301 Ssc-1 10-14

40. Press right front.

Seam and

Press right front prior to the buttonhole operation.

41. Clean coat.

a. Remove all basting threads.

b. All ends of stitching shall be trimmed and loose threads removed from the coats.

c. All spots, stains, and shade or size markings shall be removed without damage to the material.

42. Mark and make buttonholes.

a. Mark left front for three buttonholes using buttonhole template provided for placement of buttonholes. The spacing between each of the buttonholes shall be uniform.

b. Make three buttonholes in left front marked with the inside edge of the eyelet 3/4 inch from the finished edge of the coat.

The cut length of the finished buttonhole after tacking shall measure not less than l inch and not more than l-l/8 inches (see 3.6.2).

Button hole machine

63-70 per 1” button hole

B Nylon B Nylon

c. Tack ends of buttonholes stitching and gimp by machine with a vertical bartack centered on both gimp ends of the buttonhole (see 3.6.3).

NOTE:. Only a "cut-before" type buttonhole is permitted. The use of a "cut-after" type buttonhole is expressly prohibited.

Bartack 21 per bartack

B Nylon B Nylon

43. Press coat.

Finished appearance.

The coat shall be pressed smooth and flat, without any gloss or pressing impressions.

The top of sleeves shall be blocked and pressed having a rolled effect at front and

Seam and back. The left front bottom edge shall be even with right, and shall roll inward below bottom front button when buttoned on model form. There shall not be any strike through or strike back of fusing material on the finished coat.

a. Place coat on hanger after first pressing operation until completion of pressing.

b. The shoulders…