Atch 15 - Womens Mess Dress Skirt PD APC 05-06 Amend 1..pdf

648 AESS/TAC PURCHASE DESCRIPTION APC05-06

AIR FORCE CLOTHING OFFICE AMENDMENT 1

8 December 2006

SKIRT, MESS DRESS, WOMEN’S, BLUE 1583

Page 5, Paragraph 3.4 Design., Line 5 after “Style 1 shall have a slit (approximately 16 inches” delete 16 and substitute 22 “inches for size 12 R)”.

Page 10 , Table II, Operation 8., Make Lining, paragraph a. NOTE: line 3 after “securely backstitched” add “or the depth of the darts may be folded and stitched as a pleats into the waistband.”

FA700022Q0072

Attachment 15

HUMAN SYSTEMS GROUP PURCHASE DESCRIPTION APC 05-06

HUMAN PROTECTION SYSTEMS PROGRAM OFFICE REVISION 31 JULY 2005

AIR FORCE CLOTHING OFFICE SUPERSEDES

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION AESC 82-4

4 DECEMBER 1984

SKIRT, MESS DRESS, WOMAN'S, BLUE 1583

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This Purchase Description covers the requirements for a woman's mess dress skirt.

1.2 Classification. The skirt shall be of the following styles and types , as specified (see 6.2):

Style I – Straight Skirt With Slit Style 2- A-line without Slit

1.3 Finished Measurements.

1.3.1 Style 1, Straight Skirt With Slit, Type I (Misses sizes )and A-Line without Slit Type 2 (Women’s sizes), The finished measurements of skirts shall conform to dimensions specified in Table III.

1.3.2 Style 2, A-line, Type I (Misses sizes) and Type 2 (Women’s sizes), The finished measurements of skirts shall conform to dimensions specified in Table III.

1.4 Sizes. Skirts shall be furnished in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2)

Type 1 (Misses Sizing)

Misses Short 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Misses Regular 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Misses Long 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Misses X-Long 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

Type 2 (Women’s Sizing)

Women’s Short 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Women’s Regular 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Women’s Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Women’s X-Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government Documents. Unless otherwise specified, the following specifications and standards of the issue listed in that issue of Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) specified in the solicitation, for a part of this Purchase Description to the extent specified herein.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-1492 - Tape, Gummed, Paper, Plain A-A-3174 - Plastic Sheet and Strip, Thin Gauge, Polyolefin

A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-55634 - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

MILITARY

MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon

MIL-DTL-32075 - Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-129 - Military Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-1609 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Women's Skirts

HANDBOOK

Optional Uniform Certification and Quality Program

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions, should be obtained from procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

2.2 Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the document which are DoD adopted are those listed by the DODSSP cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODSSP are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE

CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TECHNICAL MANUAL

(Aplications for copies of this technical manual should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists; 1 Davis Dr., Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, Durham, North Carolina 27709-2215 or (www.aatcc.org).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

ASTM D-1974 - Box, Shipping, Fiberboard

ASTM D-6193 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

(Application for copies of standards should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Bar Harbour Dr., West Coshocken PA 19428-2959 or (www.astm.org.)

THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES

Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Shades for Buttons.

DOD Standard Color Card of official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968.

Standard Color Card of America, Ninth Edition.

(Applications for copies of these standards should be addressed to The Color Card Association of the United

States, Inc., 409 W 44th St., New York NY 10036.or www.colorassociation.com).

THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)

ANSI/ASQC-Z 1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Application for copies shall be addressed to THE American National Standards Institute, 1819 L St NW, Washington DC 20036 or www.ansi.org <http://www.ansi.org>.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and references cited herein, the text of this Purchase Description shall take precedence.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Guide Samples. If skirts are furnished as guide samples, the guide samples are solely for guidance and information.

3.2 First Article. The contractor shall furnish a skirt to 311th HSW/YAPA, 1901 Tenth ST, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7605, for inspection, approval and certification prior to bidding on an AAFES request for proposal

(RFP).

3.3 Materials

3.3.1 Basic Material. The basic material for the skirt shall conform to Purchase Description AESC 82-2. Color shall be

USAF Shade No. 1583.

3.3.2 Lining material. The material for lining the skirt shall be rayon, lining cloth conforming to Class 1 MIL-C-368.

Color shall be USAF Shade No. 1086.

3.3.3 Finishing Tape. The material for hemming and finishing the bottom of the skirt and for constructing the hanger loops shall be plain weave, rayon tape with selvage edges. The tape shall be woven of first quality, continuous filament, regenerated cellulose type rayon yarn and shall conform to the minimum physical requirements in table

XXX:

Table XXX – Finishing Tape Testing

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Width ½ inch (± 1/16 inch) ASTM D-3774 Weight Minimum of 5.0 oz/ linear yd. ASTM D-3776 Option D Count Warp: 66 minimum

Fill: 52 minimum

ASTM D-3775

Breaking Strength (Grab Method)

18 lbs minimum ASTM D-5034

The color of the tape shall match the color of the skirt.

3.3.4 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or II, Size No. 8 of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall approximate the color of the basic material and shall show good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning.

3.3.5 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 20 or 21, Size 24 line of V-B-871. The color shall be DOD Shade BV, Cable No. 62003 (See DOD Standard Shade for Buttons 1966.)

3.3.6 Slide Fasteners. The slide fastener for closing the skirt placket shall conform to Type I, Style 3, Size LS, automatic lock, brass, dark oxidized finish, and short pull tab for Class I and Class II, in accordance with A-A- 55634- The color of the tape shall match the color of skirt.

or A non-metallic slide fastener may be used. The slide fastener chain shall be nylon or polyester coil type and shall be equal to commercial size No. 2. The tape shall be woven from 100 percent polyester or from blends of nylon and cotton, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon and shall have a minimum tape width (each side) of 3/8 inch. The completed slide fastener shall not shrink more than 2 percent when tested as specified in A-A-55634. A four-prong brass #4 size metal stop shall be used.

3.3.7 Temporary basting. Thread used for temporary basting shall be a good commercial cotton thread or the same thread used in seaming the skirt.

3.3.8 Thread. Thread for seaming and stitching the skirt shall be cotton, conforming to Type I of A-A-52094.

Use Type Ticket No. Ply

Outside Stitching, IC 2 0 3 Bartack Buttonholes

Seaming and Stitching IA 3 50 3

Button Sewing IA 3 or IB 3 20 4

Silk Thread for hand felling shall be Type III, Class 3, Size A or C, 2 ply in accordance with A-A-50196.

3.3.8.1 Color and colorfastness. All threads shall match the basic fabric and have good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning.

3.3.9 Waistband Interlining . Material for the waistband interlining shall be fusible, lightweight cloth, suitable for the purpose intended and good commercial quality.

3.4 Design. Design of the skirt shall be as shown in Figures 1 and 2. The Style I skirt shall be two-gored with four back and four front darts at the waist. The Style 2 skirt shall be two gored (one front, one back) or three gored (one front, two back) with four back and two front darts at the waist. The skirt shall have a slide fastener closure on the left side with extended waistband and a one button external closure and one inside button. The skirts shall be fully lined, ankle length and the Style I shall have a slit (approximately 16 inches for size 12R) on the left side, which shall extend from mid-knee to hem.

3.5 Patterns. Two patterns will be furnished the contractor by the Government. The pattern provides seam allowances of 3/4 inch for back gores, 1 inch for side seams, and 3/8 inch for waistband. All other patterns shall be made by the manufacturer by grading from this pattern. The finished skirt shall conform to the requirements of this Purchase Description.

3.6 Construction. The skirt shall be constructed as specified in Table II; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed therein. Additional basting or holding stitching to facilitate the manufacturer of the skirt may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on finished skirt.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified herein shall conform to ASTM D-6193.

The type of seam, stitching and stitches per inch shall be as specified in table II. When two or more methods of seams or stitches are given for the same operation, any one may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will not result. All seams shall start and finish evenly at the seam line. Thread tension shall be properly maintained so that stitching will not be tight or loose. Stitches per inch specified in Table II shall be interpreted to be the minimum and maximum permitted.

3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings not caught in other seams or stitchings, except the pointed ends of the darts, shall be bartacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. The thread ends at the bottom of the darts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2 to 3/4 inch.

3.6.3 Elimination of pucker. The following practices to avoid puckering and to produce the flattest seams possible shall be given consideration by the manufacturer of the skirt. The needle shall be the smallest possible with a slim point.

The smallest throat plate hole possible should be used to prevent flagging. Pressure on the presser foot should be just enough to insure a steady flow of material. The feed dogs should contain 18 to 20 teeth per inch for normal sewing and 20 to 25 teeth per inch for stitching down. All attachments should be as smooth as possible to permit free flowing of the material through the machine. The lightest possible thread tension, while maintaining a good stitch, should be used. The upper and lower threads shall be balanced. Check to insure blunt needles are eliminated and machine adjustments are maintained.

3.6.4 Marking. Marking of parts of skirt to insure uniform shade and size may be any method except corrosive metal fastening devices, sewn-on types of marking or adhesive tickets that will leave impressions or traces of paper or adhesive after the tickets are removed from parts.

3.6.5 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the skirt shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in table I, from the materials specified herein and the quantity specified in Table I.

3.6.6 Buttonhole. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, taper-bar or eyelet-end, square bar type, worked over gimp with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length shall be 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end, square-bar type shall be bartacked in a separate operation. The bar at end of taper-bar type buttonhole shall have a minimum of four tacks not including the first cross-over stitch.

3.6.7 Pressing. Pressing as required in table II shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine.

3.7 Identification of product. Each skirt shall have a certification label, a contractors label, and a wool products label, if required.

3.7.1 Contractor's label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent coated, conforming toType I of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall finish not less than 2 inches wide by 2 1/2inches long (the printing shall be along the 2 1/2 inch length) and show the following information:

Contractor's Name: * Contract Number: *

Contract Date: * Size: **

Name:

Serial Number:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

*Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

**Applicable data to be stamped by contractor using permanent type black ink after labels are printed.

3.7.2 Certification Label. The manufacturer will be certified and given a certificate number which he shall use in a woven label attached to each item indicating that the garment has been produced in accordance with the requirements of this Purchase Description. The label shall read as follows:

"USAF Certification No. .

A sample of this item has been inspected and meets or exceeds the quality prescribed by AF PD YAPC 05-06 . The manufacturer certifies that this item meets the quality of sample approved by

USAF."

3.7.3 Removable size ticket. The removable hard paper size ticket shall be approximately 1 1/2 inches wide by 2 inches long and be of regular commercial hard paper construction with two holes at each corner. The letters and numerals shall not be less than 3/8 inch in height. The paper size ticket shall be tacked at all corners to the waistband on the outside. Ticket shall show the size of the skirt, for example:

Type 1: Misses Sizes: 10MS 10MR 10ML 10MXL Type 2: Women’s Sizes: 10WS 10WR 10WL 10WXL

Table I. List of Pattern Parts

Material Pattern Nomenclature Cut Parts

Basic Material (as specified)

Lining

Waistband Interlining

Front Back 1/ Back 2/ Waistband Placket facing

Front lining Back lining

Waistband interlining

1/ Class I: With slit, cut parts will be one.

2/

TABLE II Sewing operations

NO.

DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

THREAD

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM AND

STITCHING

STITCHES

PER INCH

1.

2.

3.

4.

Cutting the Skirt

a. The cloth shall be sponged using the cold water method before cutting. The material shall be cut face to face, that is, the face of one ply shall be over and against the next ply below. The material shall be spread not more than 80 plies (40 skirts) high.

b. When cutting small sections or single cuts, the material may be cut face to face on the fold lengthwise.

c. All component parts of the skirt shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

d. Except for placket piece, all component parts of skirt shall be cut from one piece of material. The placket piece may be cut from ends and shall approximately match the skirt.

e. At the time of cutting, replace any part containing holes or weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats, loose slubs, etc., likely to develop into a hole.

f. Replace any part damaged during manufacturing process by needle chews, which might be expected to develop into a hole; scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns.

Cut Lining.

The cloth, rayon lining for skirt shall be cut in direction of the warp.

Shade and Identification Marking.

Except for those parts cut from ends as indicated in operation No. 1, all components parts of the skirt shall be marked to insure uniform shade and size.

Waist Darts

Waist darts shall be correctly positioned and properly tapered to the length and width indicated

SEAM AND

5.

6.

on the pattern. There shall be no bulging of the finished darts that will affect appearance.

a. Stitch darts on front and back panel as indicated on pattern.

NOTE: Darts shall be sewn on the inside and evenly tapered to nothing. The ends of stitchings shall be securely backstitched.

b. Press darts flat and smooth with a heated pressing iron or machine. The folded edge of darts shall face toward center front and back.

Join Gores, NOTE: In joining gores, seams shall start and finish evenly, without puckers or twists. Gore seam outlets shall finish as specified. Raw edges shall be pinked evenly and depth of pinking shall be uniform.

a. Join center back gores together, matching the notches indicated on pattern.

b. Pink center back and side back seams.

or

Overedge center back and side back seams.

c. Press gore seams open and flat with a heated pressing iron.

Join Front and Back Parts.

a. Join front and back parts of skirt on each side, as indicated by marks on pattern. Left side seam shall provide for the side opening at top and slit on Class I skirt.

b. Pink side raw edges of skirt gore and bottom side edges of placket material or overedge side raw edges of skirt gores and bottom and side edges of placket.

50-3

OSF-1

SSa-1

EFd-1

12-14

9-11

SEAM AND

7.

8.

c. Trim and pink bottom edge of skirt so it is even and ready for application of tape.or

Overedge bottom edge of skirt.

Placket Opening

a. Turn under front edge forming facing piece, as indicated on pattern and single stitch the fastener tape through turned-back and front, forming a 1/2 to 5/8 inch welt. The plastic/metal edge of slide fastener shall be 1/4 to 3/8 inch from creased edge of opening.

b. Place slide fastener on outside back edge of folded placket facing piece, with chain 1/2 to 5/8 inch from folded edge and single stitch the tape to placket facing.

c. Position back edge of placket piece to back edge of placket opening, with the slide fastener chain even with creased edge of the opening 1/16 inch from top edge of skirt, through slide fastener tape and placket facing.

d. Topstitch across bottom of welt, catching bottom of placket through slide fastener tape and placket, with a single row of stitching extending not more than 1/16 inch beyond side seam.

NOTE: Placket shall be smooth and flat. The front welt edge shall cover the slide fastener when placket is closed and waistband is buttoned. Top of fastener chain shall not be more than 1/2 inch from waistband seam.

Make Lining

a. Stitch darts on front lining panel and back lining panel, as indicated on pattern.

NOTE: Darts shall be sewn on the inside and evenly tapered to nothing. Ends of stitching shall be securely backstitched.

or

EFa-1

LSd-1

OSF-1

SEAM AND

9.

10.

11.

b. Press darts flat and smooth with a heated presing iron or machine. Folded edge of front darts shall face center front and folded edge of back darts shall face center back.

c. Join center back gores together, matching notches on pattern.

d. Join front and back parts of lining on each side, as indicated by marks on pattern. Left side seam shall provide for side opening at the top and slit on Class 1 skirt.

e. Pink all raw edges of lining, except top or

Overedge all raw edges, except top.

f. Press seams open and flat with a heated pressing iron.

Attach Lining to Skirt

a. Position lining at top of skirt on inside, with skirt seams directly on top oflining seams. Lining shall be folded under and basted around slide fastener and on top of skirt, so lining does not interfere with opening and closing of slide fastener.

b. Stitch lining to top of skirt 1/4 inch from top raw edge.

c. Fell lining around slide fastener on left side.

Hanger Loops

Make two hanger loops from strips of rayon tape folded in half lengthwise and stitched. The finished loops shall be 1 1/2 (+ 1/4) inches long. Loops shall be on the inside of skirt, one loop located over right seam and other loop shall be 1 1/2 inches in from placket edge and caught in waistband attachment operation.

Waistband

a. Fuse waistband with lightweight fusible

A or C silk

Hand or

Hand

Hopper

8-10

SEAM AND

12.

interlining.

b.Position label on inside of waistband centered horizontally and vertically at center back and stitch label along all for sides, with a single row of stitching, 1/16 inch through inside of waistband only.

c. Fold waistband in half lengthwise, seam squareends; trim, turn and work out ends.

d. Sew waistband with left front to top on inside of skirt, in accordance with the notches, with a ⅜ single stitch catching the hanger loop in the operation. Ends shall be securely backstitched.

e. Turn waistband up, turning under free edge of waistband and stitch to skirt, catching underside of waistband. Continue edge stitching along the ends and top edge of waistband. Edge stitching shall be 1/16 inch gauge. Finished waistband shall be 1 1/4 (+ 1/8) inches wide.

f. Overedge bottom of waistband.

g. Fold waistband down and edge stitch 1/16 inch below waistband.

Buttonholes

a. Make two cut-first or cut-after eyelet end, taper bar or square bar type buttonhole to fit a 24 line button, well worked over gimp, with purling face

up. Place buttonhole at end, with eyelet not less than 1/2 inch nor more than 3/4 inch from edge, centered on waistband, with eyelet not less than 3/8 inches from edges. Place another buttonhole on waistband, with eyelet not less than 3/8 inch from edges, centered on waistband.

NOTE: When square bar type buttonhole is used, it shall be bar tacked in a separate operation.

b. Buttonhole may be straight type, with ends securely tacked. Front end of buttonhole shall not be less than 1/2 inch nor more than 5/8 from the

Button hole

LSa-1

SSe-2a

BSq-2b

BSq-2b

SSe-2 (a)

12-16

6-10

10-14

46 per buttonhole not including tacks

21 per bartack

SEAM AND

TYPE

STITCHING

TYPE

13.

14.

15.

edge. Buttonhole on the inside of waistband shall not be less than 1/4 inch nor more than 3/8 inch from finished end.

Mark or Gauge Position and Sew on Buttons.

a. Mark or quage position for the buttons on waistband to correspond with buttonholes.

b. Sew buttons on marks. When buttons are sewn by hand, sewing shall be tacked off with two stitches and ends shall be hidden. Inside button shall be shank wrapped.

NOTE: Placket shall not be distorted when waistband is buttoned.

Skirt Bottom.

Sew rayon tape to pinked edge of bottom.

Clean Skirt.

a. Trim all ends and remove loose threads.

b. Remove gloss marks or creases.

20-4

Hand

20-22 per button 14-16 per button or 3 per button double thread

TABLE III – MEASUREMENTS

MISSES: Straight Skirt with Slit; Style I, Type 1 (Misses)

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2MS 12 1/4 18 1/2 39

4MS 12 3/4 19 39 1/4

6MS 13 1/4 19 1/2 39 1/2

8MS 13 3/4 20 39 3/4

10MS 14 1/4 20 1/2 40

12MS 15 21 1/4 40 1/4

14MS 15 3/4 22 40 1/2

16MS 16 1/2 22 3/4 40 3/4

18MS 17 1/2 23 3/4 41

20MS 18 1/2 24 3/4 41 1/4

22MS 19 1/2 25 3/4 41 1/2

24MS 20 1/2 26 3/4 41 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2MR 12 1/4 18 1/2 41

4MR 12 3/4 19 41 1/4

6MR 13 1/4 19 1/2 41 1/2

8MR 13 3/4 20 41 3/4

10MR 14 1/4 20 1/2 42

12MR 15 21 1/4 42 1/4

14MR 15 3/4 22 42 1/2

16MR 16 1/2 22 3/4 42 3/4

18MR 17 1/2 23 3/4 43

20MR 18 1/2 24 3/4 43 1/4

22MR 19 1/2 25 3/4 43 1/2

24MR 20 1/2 26 3/4 43 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2ML 12 1/4 18 1/2 43

4ML 12 3/4 19 43 1/4

6ML 13 1/4 19 1/2 43 1/2

8ML 13 3/4 20 43 3/4

10ML 14 1/4 20 1/2 44

12ML 15 21 1/4 44 1/4

14ML 15 3/4 22 44 1/2

16ML 16 1/2 22 3/4 44 3/4

18ML 17 1/2 23 3/4 45

20ML 18 1/2 24 3/4 45 1/4

22ML 19 1/2 25 3/4 45 1/2

24ML 20 1/2 26 3/4 45 3/4

Style 1: Straight Skirt with Slit; Type 2 (Women’s) (contd)

2MXL 12 1/4 18 1/2 45

4MXL 12 3/4 19 45 1/4

6MXL 13 1/4 19 1/2 45 1/2

8MXL 13 3/4 20 45 3/4

10MXL 14 1/4 20 1/2 46

12MXL 15 21 1/4 46 1/4

14MXL 15 3/4 22 46 1/2

16MXL 16 1/2 22 3/4 46 3/4

18MXL 17 1/2 23 3/4 47

20MXL 18 1/2 24 3/4 47 1/4

22MXL 19 1/2 25 3/4 47 1/2

24MXL 20 1/2 26 3/4 47 3/4

Style I: Straight Skirt with Slit;, Type 2, (Women’s)

2WS 12 1/4 19 1/2 39

4WS 12 3/4 20 39 1/4

6WS 13 1/4 20 1/2 39 1/2

8WS 13 3/4 21 39 3/4

10WS 14 1/4 21 1/2 40

12WS 15 22 1/4 40 1/4

14WS 15 3/4 23 40 1/2

16WS 16 1/2 23 3/4 40 3/4

18WS 17 1/2 24 3/4 41

20WS 18 1/2 25 3/4 41 1/4

22WS 19 1/2 26 3/4 41 1/2

24WS 20 1/2 27 3/4 41 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2WR 12 1/4 19 1/2 41

4WR 12 3/4 20 41 1/4

6WR 13 1/4 20 1/2 41 1/2

8WR 13 3/4 21 41 3/4

10WR 14 1/4 21 1/2 42

12WR 15 22 1/4 42 1/4

14WR 15 3/4 23 42 1/2

16WR 16 1/2 23 3/4 42 3/4

18WR 17 1/2 24 3/4 43

20WR 18 1/2 25 3/4 43 1/4

22WR 19 1/2 26 3/4 43 1/2

24WR 20 1/2 27 3/4 43 3/4

Style 1: Straight Skirt with Slit, Type 2 (Women’s ) (contd)

2WL 12 1/4 19 1/2 43

4WL 12 3/4 20 43 1/4

6WL 13 1/4 20 1/2 43 1/2

8WL 13 3/4 21 43 3/4

10WL 14 1/4 21 1/2 44

12WL 15 22 1/4 44 1/4

14WL 15 3/4 23 44 1/2

16WL 16 1/2 23 3/4 44 3/4

18WL 17 1/2 24 3/4 45

20WL 18 1/2 25 3/4 45 1/4

22WL 19 1/2 26 3/4 45 1/2

24WL 20 1/2 27 3/4 45 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2WXL 12 1/4 19 1/2 45

4WXL 12 3/4 20 45 1/4

6WXL 13 1/4 20 1/2 45 1/2

8WXL 13 3/4 21 45 3/4

10WXL 14 1/4 21 1/2 46

12WXL 15 22 1/4 46 1/4

14WXL 15 3/4 23 46 1/2

16WXL 16 1/2 23 3/4 46 3/4

18WXL 17 1/2 24 3/4 47

20WXL 18 1/2 25 3/4 47 1/4

22WXL 19 1/2 26 3/4 47 1/2

24WXL 20 1/2 27 3/4 47 3/4

Style II :A-Line; Type 1, ( Misses)

2MS 12 1/4 19 1/4 39

4MS 12 3/4 19 3/4 39 1/4

6MS 13 1/4 20 1/4 39 1/2

8MS 13 3/4 20 3/4 39 3/4

10MS 14 1/4 21 1/4 40

12MS 15 22 40 1/4

14MS 15 3/4 22 3/4 40 1/2

16MS 16 1/2 23 1/4 40 3/4

18MS 17 1/2 24 1/4 41

20MS 18 1/2 25 1/4 41 1/4

22MS 19 1/2 26 1/4 41 1/2

24MS 20 1/2 27 1/4 41 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2MR 12 1/4 19 1/4 41

4MR 12 3/4 19 3/4 41 1/4

6MR 13 1/4 20 1/4 41 1/2

8MR 13 3/4 20 3/4 41 3/4

10MR 14 1/4 21 1/4 42

12MR 15 22 42 1/4

14MR 15 3/4 22 3/4 42 1/2

16MR 16 1/2 23 1/4 42 3/4

18MR 17 1/2 24 1/4 43

20MR 18 1/2 25 1/4 43 1/4

22MR 19 1/2 26 1/4 43 1/2

24MR 20 1/2 27 1/4 43 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2ML 12 1/4 19 1/4 43

4ML 12 3/4 19 3/4 43 1/4

6ML 13 1/4 20 1/4 43 1/2

8ML 13 3/4 20 3/4 43 3/4

10ML 14 1/4 21 1/4 44

12ML 15 22 44 1/4

14ML 15 3/4 22 3/4 44 1/2

16ML 16 1/2 23 1/4 44 3/4

18ML 17 1/2 24 1/4 45

20ML 18 1/2 25 1/4 45 1/4

22ML 19 1/2 26 1/4 45 1/2

24ML 20 1/2 27 1/4 45 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2MXL 12 1/4 19 1/4 45

4MXL 12 3/4 19 3/4 45 1/4

6MXL 13 1/4 20 1/4 45 1/2

8MXL 13 3/4 20 3/4 45 3/4

10MXL 14 1/4 21 1/4 46

12MXL 15 22 46 1/4

14MXL 15 3/4 22 3/4 46 1/2

16MXL 16 1/2 23 1/4 46 3/4

18MXL 17 1/2 24 1/4 47

20MXL 18 1/2 25 1/4 47 1/4

22MXL 19 1/2 26 1/4 47 1/2

24MXL 20 1/2 27 1/4 47 3/4

Style 2: A-line; Type 2 (Women’s)

2WS 12 1/4 20 1/4 39

4WS 12 3/4 20 3/4 39 1/4

6WS 13 1/4 21 1/4 39 1/2

8WS 13 3/4 21 3/4 39 3/4

10WS 14 1/4 22 1/4 40

12WS 15 23 40 1/4

14WS 15 3/4 23 3/4 40 1/2

16WS 16 1/2 24 1/4 40 3/4

18WS 17 1/2 25 1/4 41

20WS 18 1/2 26 1/4 41 1/4

22WS 19 1/2 27 1/4 41 1/2

24WS 20 1/2 28 1/4 41 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2WR 12 1/4 20 1/4 41

4WR 12 3/4 20 3/4 41 1/4

6WR 13 1/4 21 1/4 41 1/2

8WR 13 3/4 21 3/4 41 3/4

10WR 14 1/4 22 1/4 42

12WR 15 23 42 1/4

14WR 15 3/4 23 3/4 42 1/2

16WR 16 1/2 24 1/4 42 3/4

18WR 17 1/2 25 1/4 43

20WR 18 1/2 26 1/4 43 1/4

22WR 19 1/2 27 1/4 43 1/2

24WR 20 1/2 28 1/4 43 3/4

SIZE ½ Waist ½ HIP LENGTH

2WL 12 1/4 20 1/4 43

4WL 12 3/4 20 3/4 43 1/4

6WL 13 1/4 21 1/4 43 1/2

8WL 13 3/4 21 3/4 43 3/4

10WL 14 1/4 22 1/4 44

12WL 15 23 44 1/4

14WL 15 3/4 23 3/4 44 1/2

16WL 16 1/2 24 1/4 44 3/4

18WL 17 1/2 25 1/4 45

20WL 18 1/2 26 1/4 45 1/4

22WL 19 1/2 27 1/4 45 1/2

24WL 20 1/2 28 1/4 45 3/4

Style 2: A-line; Type 2 (Women’s) (contd)

2WXL 12 1/4 20 1/4 45

4WXL 12 3/4 20 3/4 45 1/4

6WXL 13 1/4 21 1/4 45 1/2

8WXL 13 3/4 21 3/4 45 3/4

10WXL 14 1/4 22 1/4 46

12WXL 15 23 46 1/4

14WXL 15 3/4 23 3/4 46 1/2

16WXL 16 1/2 24 1/4 46 3/4

18WXL 17 1/2 25 1/4 47

20WXL 18 1/2 26 1/4 47 1/4

22WXL 19 1/2 27 1/4 47 1/2

24WXL 20 1/2 28 1/4 47 3/4

3.8 Measurements. The unhemmed skirt shall conform to finished measurements in Table III. The tolerance for waist measurement is + 1/4 inch. For all other measurements, tolerance is + 1/2 inch.

3.8.1 Method of Measuring. The skirt shall be buttoned, placed flat upon a table and measured as follows:

1/ - 1/2 Waist - From folded edge to folded edge, at center of waistband.

2/ - 1/2 Hip - From folded edge to folded edge, across skirt at the following locations, at each side, fold from bottom edge of waistband:

Short - 7 7/8 inches down.

Regular - 8 3/8 inches down.

Long and - 8 7/8 inches.

3/ - Length - From lower edge of waistband, at center front to bottom unhemmed edge.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished skirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this Purchase Description.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the Purchase Description where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2 Quality Conformance Inspection.

4.2.1 Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, above, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this Purchase Description or applicable purchase documents.

4.2.2 End Item Examination. Sampling and examination of the end item shall be performed in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1609. The skirts shall be classified as Dress ("D") skirts.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation-Packaging. Preservation-packaging shall be level A or C as specified (see 6.2).

5.1.1 Level A.

5.1.1.1 Unit Packaging. Each skirt shall be folded in evenly from each side in a lengthwise fold resulting in a bottom width of 9 1/2 inches. The top of the skirt shall then be folded over towards the bottom so that the completely folded skirt measures not more than 16 1/2 by 9 1/2 inches. For the larger size skirts, it may be necessary to fold the bottom over in order to achieve the desired folded length dimension. Each folded skirt shall be inserted in a close-fitting flat style, clear polyethylene film bag of 0.00125 inch thickness (+ 25 percent tolerance). The polyethylene bag shall be formed with heat sealed seams that are straight, continuous, and parallel to each other and the formed edge of the bag. One end of the bag shall remain unsealed and the bag shall be not less than 1 inch greater than the folded garment. The unsealed opening shall be at the smaller dimension of the bag. Alternatively, the polyethylene bag shall be provided with a tuck or reverse flap.

5.1.1.2 Intermediate Packaging. Twenty skirts of one class and size only, unit packaged as specified in 5.1.1.1, shall be packaged in an intermediate fiberboard box conforming to style FTC, type CF, variety SW, class domestic, grade 175 of ASTM D-1974. The unit packages shall be arranged two in length, one in width, and ten'in depth within a box. Inside dimensions of the box shall be 19 inches in depth. The box closure shall be secured with 3 inch minimum width gummed paper tape conforming to A-A-1492 applied at the center of the length opening and extending along the bottom and up the sides at least two inches.

5.1.2 Level C. Skirts shall be preserved-packaged to afford adequate protection against physical damage during shipment from the contractor to the first receiving activity. The contractor may use his standard practice when it meets this requirement.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be level A, B, or C as specified (see 6-2).

5.2.1 Level A Packing. Eighty skirts, of one class and size only, preserved-packaged as specified in 5.1, shall be packed flat in a fiberboard shipping container conforming to style RSC, grade V2s of ASTM D-1974. Level A intermediate packages shall be packed flat four in depth within a shipping container. Inside dimensions of the shipping container shall approximate 20 1/2 inches in length, 18 inches in width, and 17 inches in depth.

Approximate dimensions are furnished as a guide only. Each shipping container shall be in accordance with MIL- STD-1609. Toward the end of the contract or where there is less than the required amount per container of the same size, mixed sizes of the same class only may be packed within the same shipping container.

5.2.2 Level B Packing. Eighty skirts of one class and size only, preserved-packaged as specified in 5.1, shall be packed flat in a fiberboard shipping container conforming to style RSC, type CF (variety SW) or SF, class domestic, grade 200 of ASTM D-1974. Level A intermediate packages shall be packed flat four in depth within a shipping container. Inside dimensions of the shipping container shall approximate 20 1/2 inches in length, 18 inches in width, and 17 inches in depth. Approximate dimensions are furnished as a guide only. Each shipping container shall be closed in accordance with method II as specified in the appendix of ASTM D-1974, except that the inspection shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-1609. Toward the end of the contract or when there is less than the required amount per container of the same size, mixed sizes of the same class only may be packed within the same shipping container.

5.2.2.1 Weather-Resistant Fiberboard Shipping Containers. When specified (see 6-2), the shipping container shall be a grade V3c, V3s or V4s fiberboard box, fabricated in accordance with ASTM D-1974 and closed in accordance with the appendix of ASTM D-1974, except that the inspection shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-1609.

5.2.3 Level C Packing. Skirts, preserved-packaged as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in a manner to insure carrier acceptance and safe delivery at destination at the lowest transportation rate for such supplies. The quantity per shipping container shall be the same as that normally used by the contractor for retail distribution. Containers shall be in accordance with Uniform Freight Classification or National Motor Freight Classification, as applicable.

5.3 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract, interior packages and shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

5.3.1 Polyethylene Bagged Packages. Polyethylene bagged packages shall have the required identification information legibly printed or stamped in black directly on the bag across the center face or on a white paper label inserted within the bag so as to permit ready identification.

5.3.2 Labels, Mixed Sizes. Each shipping container, packed with mixed sizes of one class only shall have securely attached to the end and side, directly under the printing or stenciling, a white paper label 5 by 4 inches with the words "MIXED SIZES" plainly stamped or printed thereon, and under these words shall be legibly stamped or printed the correct quantity and sizes contained therein.

6. NOTES

6.1.1 Intended use. The skirt covered by this Purchase Description is intended for use as a component of the Mess Dress

Uniform worn by women of the United States Air Force.

6.2 Ordering Data.

a. Title, number and date of this Purchase Description.

b. Classification required (see 1.2).

c. Quantity required by size (see 1.4).

d. Availability of sample (see 3.1).

e. Requirements for First Article (see 3.2.1).

f. Any special marking required (see 5.3).

g. Selection of applicable packaging, packing and marking requirements specified herein (see 5.1, 5.2 and

5.3).

6.3 Color Shade Samples. Sample of USAF color shades may be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.

6.4 Figures. Figures show general design and are for information only.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Air Force - 11 Air Force – 11

FIGURE I Skirt, Women's Mess Dress, Formal Length Straight skirt with Slit, Style I

Placket turned back to show construction

FIGURE 2 Skirt, Women's Mess Dress, Formal Length A-line without slit, Style 2