Atch 7 - CLIN 0013 ALP Spec.pdf

AFGHANISTAN LOCAL POLICE

UNIFORM

SPECIFICATION

18 Nov 2010

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001 Attachment 7

Sources: Information sources for this specification are the ALP senior leaders, CSTC-A Senior Leadership, MPRI and DynCorp Mentors. All rights to intellectual data in this specification is the property of the US government.

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

Table of Contents

1. GENERAL PURPOSE

2. APPLICABLE STANDARDS………………………………………………………………….5

3. DETAILED UNIFORM COMPONENTS SPECIFICATIONS……………………………….6

4. UNIFORM SHIRT

5 TROUSERS COMPONENTS

6. VERIFICATION

Table of Figures

Figure 1: Afghan Army Shirt Fitment Chart………………………………………………………4

Figure 2: Afghan Army Trouser Fitment Chart………………………………………………...…4

Figure 3: Tariff sizing (in percentage)…………………………………………………………….4

Figure 4: Required Labeled Information………………………………………………………….5

Figure 5: Responsibility Tag (in Dari)…………………………………………………………….6

Figure 6: Fabric / Material Characteristics………………………………………………………..6

Figure 7: Chest Pocket Detail

Figure 8: ALP BDU Shirt Cutters Minimum Pattern Count

Figure 9: ALP Shirt Component Specifications

Figure 10: ALP SHIRT FRONT VIEW

Figure 11: ALP UNIFORM SHIRT BACK VIEW

Figure 12: ALP Trouser Minimum Cutters Pattern

Figure 13: ALP Trouser Specification

Figure 14: Trouser ALP Uniform

Figure 15: End Item Visual Examination file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190358553%23_Toc190358553 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190358556%23_Toc190358556 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190358557%23_Toc190358557 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190358558%23_Toc190358558 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369721%23_Toc190369721 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369722%23_Toc190369722 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369723%23_Toc190369723 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369724%23_Toc190369724 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369725%23_Toc190369725 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369726%23_Toc190369726 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369727%23_Toc190369727 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369728%23_Toc190369728 file://eggra7afgn004/SAO-A/OCIE/Uniforms/Local%20Settings/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/OLK21/ANP%20Uniforms/ANP%20Uniform%20Spec%2019%20Apr%2008.doc%23_Toc190369730%23_Toc190369730

1. GENERAL PURPOSE

1.1 The purpose of this specification is to set the standard for manufacturers to follow when providing uniforms to the Afghan Local Police. Deviations are only authorized via a contractual change letter from the servicing contract agency.

1.2 The specification herein describes the Afghan Local Police (ALP) uniform and all-weather uniform. Please note that an additional camouflage uniform is authorized for border patrol and other direct drug/insurgent activities. This uniform will be worn throughout the ranks, officer and enlisted and all special units such as ANCOP, CN, CT, CID, and the ABP.

1.3 Sizing:

Both the shirt and trousers will come in various sizes to support the Afghan population. CSTA-CJ-4 has revised the sizing so that more of the population fits into the small and large sizes.

Figure 1: Afghan Army Shirt Fitment Chart

Element Small Medium Large Extra Large Short

Shirt:

chest- 38” arm length- 23”

Shirt:

chest- 40” arm length- 23”

Shirt:

chest- 43” arm length- 24”

Regular Shirt:

chest- 40” arm length- 24”

Shirt:

chest- 43” arm length- 25” Shirt:

chest- 48” arm length- 26” Long Shirt:

chest- 40” arm length- 25”

Shirt:

chest- 43” arm length- 26”

- Arm length measured from outside and top of shoulder to wrist

Figure 2: Afghan Army Trouser Fitment Chart

Element Small Medium Large Extra Large Short Pants:

Waist- 32” Outseam- 38”

Pants:

Waist- 34” Outseam - 38”

Pants:

Waist- 38” Outseam - 38”

Regular Pants:

Waist- 32” Outseam - 40”

Pants:

Waist- 34” Outseam - 40”

Pants:

Waist- 38” Outseam - 40”

Pants:

Waist- 44” Outseam - 40”

Long Pants:

Waist- 34” Outseam - 43”

Pants:

Waist- 38” Outseam - 43”

Pants:

Waist- 44” Outseam - 43”

- Pant Outseam measured from top of belt line to the floor without shoes or boots. Pants will be made slightly shorter to accommodate blousing the pant leg inside boots

Figure 3: Tariff Sizing (in percentage)

Element Small Medium Large Extra

Large Short 4 14 6 Regular 10 25 16 1 Long 12 8 4

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

2. APPLICABLE STANDARDS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section will be used as guide for the manufacture and packaging of the uniform.

2.2 Order of precedence.

2.3.1 Specific contract language (or contract modifications).

2.3.2 This specification.

2.3.3 Commercial standards.

2.3.4 Other reference material listed in this document.

2.3 Directives for the manufacture of the uniform.

2.3.1 Labor laws. Manufacturers inside Afghan borders will ensure work conditions, wages, and safety measures meet or exceed the average work conditions in the country.

2.3.2 Quality Inspection Process

Manufacturers will be subject to random inspections at any time by Coalition uniformed and non-uniformed members and/or International Non-Government Organizations at the discretion of CSTC-

A/CJ-4.

2.3.3 Standards to be used for the manufacture of the uniform. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

2.4 Directives for the packaging of the uniform.

2.4.1 Each shirt and trouser will contain a label printed in colorfast ink on an olive green background. Threshold:

The labels will be English (Objective: English and Dari). Threshold: Sizes shall be in English and Dari. For the shirt, the label will be placed on the inside of wearer’s right breast behind the pocket. For the trouser, the label will be placed 1 inch below the waistband centered on the rear.

Figure 4: Required Labeled Information

Required Labeled Information Example Item Description Size

Referenced Specification #

Materials

Origin of Material

Origin of Manufacture

Contract Number

Care Instructions

Date of manufacture

ALP Shirt Medium – Regular

ALP – 0001-25NOV2007

50% Nylon/50% Cotton

Textiles sourced from: Canon, North Carolina United

States of America

Manufactured in Montgomery, Alabama

United States of America

W91TMD-08-3356

Machine cold, do not use bleach. Do not iron

2.4.2 Uniforms will have an additional wearer responsibility label inside in Dari. The shirt label location is on the inside of the shirt, centered on the collar. The trousers will have the label sewn on the inside near the fly on the wearer’s right side.

The label will state:

Figure 5: Responsibility Tag (In Dari)

Property of the Afghanistan government. There are SEVERE penalties for persons who illegally have this uniform.

2.4.3 Shirts and trousers will be packaged separately (unless contract states different) in bundles of 25. Each bundle shall only have one size.

2.4.4 Each shipment shall have at least four different sizes of shirt and trousers (unless contract states different)

3. DETAILED UNIFORM COMPONENTS SPECIFICATIONS

3.1 Fabric. The fabric is a single material described below.

Figure 6: Fabric/Material Characteristics

Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.)

Threshold (allowable range) 6.75 – 6.25

Breaking strength, lbs (min.)

Warp, Objective 165 Warp, Threshold 145 Filling 130 Elongation, percent:

Threshold - Warp 30-80 Filling 60-120 Objective - Warp 35-60 Filling 70-100 Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)

Warp 8.0 Filling 8.0 Air Permeability, ft

/ft

/min. (max) 5

Moisture vapor transmission Rate, g/m

/24h (min.) -

Initial Threshold 600 Objective 1200 Stiffness, in-lbs (max.)

At 70ºF, Objective 0.001 Threshold 0.002 At 32ºF, Objective 0.001 Threshold 0.002 Blocking, rating (max.) No. 2 Water permeability, cm (min.) - Initial 30 Spray rating, rating Initial 100, 100, 90 After 5 launderings 100, 90, 90 Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail - Initial No wetting Dynamic absorption, percent (max.)

Threshold 25.0

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

Objective 4.0 Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

Warp 5.5 Filling 5.0 Color As described below/ Pantone 150-2-3 C Pattern Execution N/A Spectral Reflectance Table II Colorfastness to:

Laundering

Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Coyote Brown

Scale for Color Change Light Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Coyote Brown for Color Change

Crocking Equal to or better than the standard sample or not less than

AATCC chromatic transference scale rating of 3.5 Toxicity 1/

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.1.1 Textile make up. The cloth shall consist of 50% Nylon/50% Cotton (threshold). Polyester (objective) content will require contracting office approval as it view as a sub-standard to Nylon. The color is described as Pantone 150-

2-3 C.

3.1.2 Rip Resistance. The cloth shall resist further tearing (1 lb tension) no more than 0.25 inches after a tear/cut has occurred. All edges of the garment shall have perpendicular (twisting) tear resistance of 25 lbs and axial tension of 20 lbs for a 1” section.

3.1.3 Toxicity documents. All finishes/chemicals used to process the garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) information. The use of chemicals recognized by the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPD) as human carcinogens is prohibited.

3.1.4 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance. The backside of seams shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 10-14 stitches per inch. Overedge or prehemming shall be stitched with 6-10 stitches per inch. When the 5-thread safety stitch is used, it shall be sewn with 9 stitches per inch (min.). All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned in, turned under or overedged. All pocket flaps shall be overedged prior to setting.

3.1.5 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than ½ inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall over-lap not less than ½ inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.1.5.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching.

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of ½ inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of ½ inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of ½ inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

3.1.5 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provide the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.1.5.3 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/2 inch unless otherwise specified.

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

3.1.5.4 Rip Stop. Cloth should be rip stop material with 10 oz fabric.

3.2 Thread.

3.2.1 The thread for all seaming and stitching shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I and Type II, Tex size 36-45.

Overedge stitch shall be Tex size 36-50. V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon

3.2.2 The thread color must blend into the color of the uniform.

3.3. Buttons. Four hole buttons will be used. The button material shall be high density plastic and match the uniform in color. Buttons shall be similar to those use the US Air Force Battle Dress Uniforms, but black in color.

Buttons are 0.75” in diameter and 0.22” in thickness. Edges are beveled and rounded for easy insertion into the button with one-hand if needed.

3.4 Tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Class 1 of A-A-55126, with selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8 inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The use of hook and loop tape that is slit, has split edges or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn a minimum of 1/8 +/- 1/32 inch from bound selvage or from hook and loop tape edge to prevent needed cutting along the edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment.

A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

3.5 Draw Strings: Drawstring shall be made of ¼” to 3/8” wide nylon or synthetic fabric. Tensile strength of the drawstring is 200 lbs or greater. The drawstring shall not unravel nor present any sharp edge to the wearer while using the drawstring.

3.6 Slide fasteners (Zipper). The slide fastener shall be a one way separating, non-reversible, automatic locking slider, Size 5 or larger, plastic individual element fastener. The slide fastener tape shall be polyester conforming to

Type III, Style 13 of A-A-55634.

AA-A-55634 - Zipper, (Fastener, Slide Interlocking)

3.7 Velcro. All Velcro used in the uniform needs to match the uniform color as close as possible.

4. UNIFORM SHIRT

4.1 Front Closure. The Shirt shall use five buttons to close. The top most button will be exposed. The remainder four buttons will be behind a hidden pleat extending to the bottom of the shirt.

4.2 Stiffners: Stiffners shall be added to the top buttonhole and both collar-end-tips. This is to aid the wearer to have a sharp and well-groomed appearance. Thus the stiffeners must maintain rigidity after 100-150 cycles of hand or machine washing and similar number of pressings/ironings.

4.3 Sleeve pocket. The pocket is a bellows type. Each pocket shall have a 4.25 inch wide (or commercially available width within 3/8” of spec) loop fastener tape sewn on and positioned 1/8 inch from top and bottom of pocket. The loop shall additionally be stitched through the center only to the pocket.

4.4. Sleeve pocket flap. The width of the loop fastener tape shall be within .375” of the loop tape use for the sleeve pocket. The pocket flap underside shall have two pieces of hook fastener tape 1 inch wide by 1 ¼ inch long, and two corresponding loop fastener 1 inch wide by 1 ¼ inches long. .

4.5 Pencil pocket The left sleeve shall have a three channel pencil pocket above the sleeve cuff. Pencil pocket shall support 0.5 inch diameter pens.

4.6 Sleeve cuff The sleeve cuff shall have adjustable cuff that are closed via buttons. The sleeve cuff adjustment tab

(1 ¾ inch wide by 4” in length including arrow-head tip).

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

4.7 Elbow patches Each sleeve shall have a reinforcement elbow patch sewn from the same material as the rest of the garment.

4.8 Chest pockets The two chest pockets shall be square against the center of the shirt. The pockets shall be the same width and height as the ALP Tactical Dress Uniform. Each pocket will also have a center bellows of 1-1/4” width and ½” overlap. The bottom corners will cut to allow for two 45 degrees angles per corner.

Figure 7: Chest Pocket Detail

4.9 Chest pocket flaps The chest pocket flaps shall close the pocket with two buttons. The flap shall be a hidden button design with the inner flap having two button holes and the external flap covering the buttons and the inner flap to male a neat and professional appearance.

4.10 Hem seam. The shirt hem shall be ¾ inch wide, double turned and clean finished.

4.11 Epaulets. The shirt will have shoulder epaulets 1.5” wide starting at the outer shoulder seam, with the tip and button covered by the collar.

4.12 Patterns. Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of ½ inch for all seams. The pattern list in Figure 11 is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

4.12.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Figure 11.

Figure 8: ALP BDU Shirt Cutters Minimum Pattern Count

PIECE NAME FABRIC QTY

1 FRONT SELF CUT 2 - Mirrored

2 BACK SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

3 TOP_SLEEVE SELF CUT 2

4 UNDER_SLEEVE SELF CUT 2

5 COLLAR SELF CUT 2

6 CUFF_TAB SELF CUT 2

7 LFT_PEN_PKT SELF CUT 1 FACE UP

8 ELBOW_PATCH SELF CUT 2

9 SLEEVE_PKT SELF CUT 2

10 SLEEVE_PKT_FLAP SELF CUT 2

11 CHEST_PKT SELF CUT 2

12 CHEST_PKT_FLAP SELF CUT 2

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

13 SIDE_BACK SELF CUT 2

Figure 9: ALP Shirt Component Specifications

Small Medium Large X-

Large

Allowance Garment Components inches inches inches inches

+/- 0.5" Neck Circumference 16 16.5 17.5 19.5

+/- 0.5" Collar Point 3 3 3 3

+/- 1" Collar Spread 6 6 6 6

+/- 1" Front Neck Drop 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5

+/- 0.25" Back Neck Drop 0 0 0 0

+/- 1/2" Cross Shoulder 18.5 19.5 20.5 22.5

+/- 1" Forward Shoulder 1 1 1 1

+/- 0.5" Cross Front (4" down armhole) 17 18 19 21

+/- 0.5" Cross Back (4" down armhole) 18 19 20 22

+/- 0.5" Chest 1" Below Armhole 43 47 51 59

+/- 0.5" Length from HPS to Hem 28 29 30 32

N/A Waist from HPS* 17 18 19 21

+/- 1" Waist 41 45 49 57

+/- 1" Bottom Hem Width 44 48 52 60

+/- 1" Armhole Circumference 23 24 25 27

+/- 0.5" Total Sleeve Length 24 24.5 25 26

+/- 1" Sleeve Width at Bicep 18 19 20 22

+/- 0.5" Cuff Opening 6.5 6.75 7 7.5

+/- 0.5" Cuff Width 2 2 2 2

+/- 0.5" Cuff Hook/Loop Width x Length/Height 8 x 1.5 8 x 1.5 8 x 1.5 8 x 1.5

+/- 0.5" Length of Cuff Closure Flap 3 3 3 3

+/- 0.5" Cuff Closure Velcro Width x Height 2 x 1.5 2 x 1.5 2 x 1.5 2 x 1.5

+/- 0.5" Breast Pocket Height 6 6 6 6

+/- 0.5" Breast Pocket Width 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5

+/- 0.5" Breast Pocket Flap Height 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

+/- 0.25" Bicep Pocket Height 7 7 7 7

+/- 0.25" Bicep Pocket Width 5 5 5 5

+/- 0.25" Bicep Pocket Flap Height 2 2 2 2

+/- 0.25" Pen Pocket Height 5.75 5.75 5.75 5.75

+/- 0.25" Pen Pocket Width 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5

+/- 0.25" Deleted 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

+/- 0.5" Elbow Patch Height 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25

+/- 0.5" Elbow Patch Width at Top side 8.25 8.25 8.25 8.25

+/- 0.5" Elbow Patch Width at Bottom Side 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5

+/- 0.5" Elbow pad Hook/loop Closure Width x Height 6 x .5 6 x .5 6 x .5 6 x .5

+/- 0.5" Length of Back Shoulder Pleat 11 11 11 11

+/- 0.5" Depth of Back Shoulder Pleat 1 1 1.5 1.5

Bolded values represent regular sizes but will be modified for fitment according to the BDU fitment chart.

Figure 7: ALP SHIRT FRONT VIEW

Figure 11: ALP UNIFORM SHIRT BACK VIEW

W91B4M-08-D-0039

5 TROUSERS COMPONENTS.

The ALP uniform trouser shall be of the same design as the ANP Tactical Uniform. The vendor must inform the

Government of any differences and reply in writing of the differences.

5.1 Waist. The draw cord for the internal waistband shall conform to the following requirements: 1000 denier textured nylon cover yarn, basket weave braid construction, 11 picks/inch minimum, 44 carriers, 1 end/carrier, 12/32

+/- 1/32 inch and 430 lbs. tensile strength. Buttons shall be dull finished standard 4-hole type. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking and show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lbs.

5.2 Waistband The waistband shall have clean finished edges with a button and buttonhole closure. The waistband also has a draw cord, inserted through ½ inch straight cut vertical buttonholes with knotted ends for waist adjustment. The waist band shall be 1.75” wide.

5.3 Fly. The trouser fly shall be a closed with five buttons. The top most button shall be exposed and centered on the waist band. The top most button shall support a tension (pull) test of 150 lbs. The remaining four buttons shall use a hidden flap. The fly shall have “J” stitching 2 inches from fly edge. The top fly edge shall be edge stitched

1/16 – 1/8 in.

5.4 Fastener tape, hook and loop The use of hook and loop tape that is slit, has split edges or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn a minimum of 1/8 +/- 1/32 inch from bound selvage or from hook and loop tape edge to prevent needed cutting along the edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment.

5.5 Belt Loops The trouser shall have seven belt loops that will support the use of riggers belt (2” wide by 1/4" thick). Each belt loop will be 1.25” wide vice the normal 0.25” width. The belt loop placement shall be as follows:

one loop on each side seam, one on back seam, one on each front centered between side seam and waistband end and one on each back side centered between side seam and back seam.

5.6 Seat patch. The trouser shall have a double needle seat patch. The seat patch and cut of the pant legs need will allow full squat and 180 degree leg articulation without pulling the fabric taught..

5.7 Crotch. To avoid current crotch tearing problems the crotch shall have a 1/2" overlap with triple stitching. The resulting pull strength needs to be 100 lbs +/- 15 lbs.

5.8 Pockets and Flaps

5.8 1 Front side pockets: The trousers shall have two front-side hanging pockets. Material used for these pockets shall be the same as the rest of the garment.

5.8.2 Hip Pockets: The trousers hall have back left and right single welt hip pockets with double button enclosures.

The cut out for the pocket shall be edged. Material used for the pocket will be the same as the rest of the garment.

The rear Hip pockets will have a flap closure with hidden button holes. This flap will use to buttons to close.

5.83 Cargo Pockets and Flaps. The trouser shall have two pleated bellows cargo pockets with flaps. The cargo pockets and flaps shall be closed with two buttons. The cargo pockets shall use a hidden flap/button hole design..

5.8 4 Lower leg pockets and flaps. The trousers shall have two lower leg bellows pockets with flaps.

The pockets shall close with hook and loop tape.

5.8.5 Leg bottom and hem. The leg bottoms shall be hemmed and shall have a drawstring inserted through two sewn-on eyelets or two ½ inch horizontal straight cut buttonholes. The drawstring shall be knotted at both ends. The finished hem shall measure ¾” inch wide.

5.9 Patterns. Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of ½ inch for all seams. The pattern list in Table IV is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001 be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

5.9.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Figure 15.

Figure 8: ALP Trouser Minimum Cutters Pattern

PIECE NAME FABRIC QTY

1 FRONT SELF CUT 2

2 BACK SELF CUT 2

3 LEFT_FLY SELF

CUT 1 FACE

UP

4 RIGHT_FLY SELF

CUT 1 FACE

UP

5 SEAT_PATCH SELF CUT 2

6 KNEE_PATCH SELF CUT 2

7 SIDE_PKT SELF CUT 2

8 WAISTBAND SELF CUT 2

9 CARGO_PKT SELF CUT 2

10 CARGO_PKT_FLAP SELF CUT 2

11 LOW_LEG_PKT SELF CUT 2

12 LOW_LEG_PKT_FLAP SELF CUT 2

13 HIP_PKT SELF CUT 2

14 HIP_PKT_FLAP SELF CUT 2

15 BELT_LOOP SELF CUT 7

5.10.3 Finished measurements. The trouser finished measurements shall be in accordance with Figure 9.

Figure 9: ALP Trouser Specification

Allowance Small Medium Large X - Large

+/- 1" 40 41 42 44

+/- 0.5" 30-35 36-40 40-44 48

+/- 1" 39 42 46 54

+/- 0.5" 12 12.5 13 14

+/- 0.5" 16.5 17.5 18.5 19.5

+/- 0.5" Thigh Circumference (1" below crotch) 25.5 28.5 28.5 31.5

+/- 0.5" Knee Circumference (12" below crotch) 22 23.5 25 26

+/- 0.5" Bottom Hem Circumference 17 18 19 21

+/- 0.5" 2 2 2 2

+/- 1" Height of Front Fly 8.5 9 10 12

N/A Number of Belt Loops 7 7 7 7

+/- .250" 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

+/- .250" 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75

+/- 0.5" 9 9 9 9

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Height - outer side 11 11 11 11

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Height - inner side 9 9 9 9

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Width 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Flap Height 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Pleat Depth 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75

+/- 1" Distance of Thigh Pocket from Top Waist 11 11 11 11

+/- 1" Distance of Knee Pocket from Top Waist 30 30 30 30

+/- 0.5" Knee Pocket Height 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5

+/- 0.5" Knee Pocket Width 4.25 4.25 4.25 4.25

+/- .250" Knee Pocket Flap Height 2 2 2 2

+/- .250" 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25

+/- 0.5" 6 6 6 6

+/- 0.5" 8.75 9 9.5 10.5

+/- 1" Seat Patch Width (single side) 8 8 9 9.5

+/- 1" Seat Patch Height 17.5 17.5 18 18.5

Garment Components

Outseam (from bottom waistband)

Waist Relaxed

Hip 8" Below Waist

Front Rise

Back Rise

Interior Waistband Height

Belt Loop Width

Knee Patch Height

Belt Loop Height

Front Side Pocket Opening

Back Pocket Flap Height

Back Pocket Width

1” allowances are to allow manufactures to center items vertically in the various size/fitments Bolded values represent regular sizes but will be modified for fitment according to the BDU fitment chart.

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

Figure 104: Trouser ALP Uniform

6. VERIFICATION

6.1 First article inspection. When a first article is required (see 6.1 and 6.3), it shall be examined for the defects specified in figure 15.

6.2 Conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise specified.

6.3 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 6.1, components and materials in the end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

Figure 15: End Item Visual Examination

Classification Examination Defect Major Minor Material defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub

Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole

Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/

Cleanliness Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on a any portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment

Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment

Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable

Component and assembly

Any defective component 1/

Any component part omitted

Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/

Slide fastener

Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective

Not closing as specified

Length not as specified

Color not as specified

Thong not as specified

Wrist tabs

Missing

Improperly located 1/

Labels

Missing, illegible, or incorrect

Incorrectly placed or attached

Accuracy of seaming Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than ½ inch

Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than ½ inch

Color not as specified

Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified

Edge of seam tape less than 1/8 inch from seam allowance

Seam tape lifting off fabric

Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric) in excess of

3/16 inch width or ½ inch in length at any location along a taped seam

Open seams

More than 1/8 inch up to ¼ inch

More than ¼ inch

NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

Seams and stitching Not specified seam or stitch type

Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/

Stitch tension Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches

- more than 2-inches

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching)

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam)

Less than minimum specified:

- one stitch

- two or more stitches

More than maximum specified

Pockets and flaps Flap attached crookedly, i.e., distance between sides of pocket and underside of opened flap varies more than

¼-inch

Pocket or flap poorly shaped

Flap not covering front or back edge of pocket by 3/16 inch or more

Insignia tab set crookedly

Pocket divider not properly placed

Repairs Any heat sealing repairs extending beyond 25 inches in length

More than five repairs on any one item 1/

Shaded part Variation in shade within an outside part 1/

Any part required to be cut form one piece on material shaded 1/

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3 feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Fronts

Length of fronts

Hem uneven by ¼ inch or more at bottom when fastened

Uneven by ¼ inch or more at neck when fastened

Flaps uneven by more than ¼ inch when fastened

Left flap less than ¼ inch longer at bottom than right flap when fastened

Label/tag Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI)) omitted or illegible

Not attached to location specified

Causes damage to the garment

Fastener tape hook & pile

Not properly placed

Not specified length