Atch 5 - CLIN 0011.doc

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

Attachment 5

AFGHANISTAN BORDER POLICE

UNIFORM

SPECIFICATION

15 Sep 2011

1. GENERAL PURPOSE

1.1 The purpose of this specification is to set the standard for manufacturers to follow when providing uniforms to the Afghan Border Police. Deviations are only authorized via a contractual change letter from the servicing contract agency.

1.2 The specification herein describes the Afghan Border Police uniform. The uniform consists of a shirt, trouser, and cap.

1.3 Sizing:

Both the shirt and trousers will come in various sizes to support the Afghan population.

Figure 1: Afghan Army Shirt Specifications and Fitment Chart (See next Page)

TOPSTITCHING:

Edge Stitching on bottom of collar, three sides of all pockets, bottom of cuffs

1/4" SINGLE topstitching on collar, two edges of button placket, three sides of breast and hem pockets, four sides of bicep pocket flap, epaulette

1/4" DOUBLE top stitching on shoulder, armhole, top of all breast and hem pocket flaps, three sides of pen pocket, vent all sides of elbow patch, top of cuff, one side and top of cuff

3/4" topstitching on top of all pockets (underneath flaps), bottom hem of shirt, and pen pocket

2.25" topstitching on both sides of center front button placket (stitches down facing)

CONSTRUCTION:

2x Breast one-sided cargo pockets, 2x Hem one-sided cargo pockets, 2x Bicep one-sided cargo pockets, 1x Pen patch pocket

3 x 5/8"" pleats on each sleeve

Bottom hem of shirt cut straight, not curved

Bicep pocket set at 60 degree angle for ease of access

All pocket flaps have hidden plackets (buttons not visible on face of garment)

Front button placket is hidden -- only visible button at neck

Epaulette attached to garment with stitches on top side and button on bottom side

BAR TACKS located at two top sides of epaulette, both top sides of all pocket flaps, both top sides of breast, hem and bicep pockets, single bottom side of breast, hem, and bicep pocket, top of cuff vent, top and bottom of hidden pocket opening, three places on hidden button placket

Breast, hem, and bicep pockets are hybrid cargo and patch styles (see detail photos)

Pen pocket located only on left sleeve and divided into three pen "areas" but 3/4" topstitching

Cuff vent has 1.25" wide button placket and reinforced area at top

Other side of cuff vent has 1/2" self-fabric facing

Shoulders come forward by 1.5"

All interior seams are overlocked dyed-to-match or white nylon thread -- no raw edges ever allowed anywhere on garment

All seam allowances should be 1/2" except where tailoring rules denotes 1/4" (i.e., neckline)

Hidden front pocket located underneath breast pocket and extends to side and shoulder seams (see detail)

Cuffs, collar, center placket, and pocket flaps faced with self-fabric (same fabric as main body)

TRIM INFORMATION:

All buttons are the same size -- 2 cm diameter, 4-hole, plastic quality

5 buttons total on front button placket

1 button on botton of epaulette

1 button on each cuff (2 total)

1 button on each cuff vent (2 total)

2 buttons on each breast pocket (4 total)

2 buttons on each hem pocket (4 total)

Moderately stiff fusible interfacing on collar, button placket, and cuffs

VELCRO used as closure for hidden pocket opening (full length) and bicep pockets

Tailoring thread is dyed-to-match (DTM) for general use and could be DTM or clear nylon for buttonholes

FABRIC INFORMATION:

Rip Stop fabric printed in custom-made camouflage pattern

56% Cotton, 44% Polyester -- Variance of +/-8% permitted for each fiber

Fabric weight is 6.1 ounces/yard2 (variation of +/- 0.5 allowed) OR 200 grams/meter2 (variation of +/- 15 allowed)

Figure 2: Afghan Army Trouser Fitment Chart

Figure 3: Tariff Sizing (in percentage)

Long

Figure 4: ABP CAP Specifications and Fitment Chart

The cap shall be one type in the following sizes.

2. APPLICABLE STANDARDS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are to be used as guide for the manufacture and packaging of the uniform.

2.2 Order of precedence.

2.3.1 Specific contract language (or contract modifications).

2.3.2 This specification.

2.3.3 Commercial standards.

2.3.4 Other reference material listed in this document.

2.3 Directives for the manufacture of the uniform.

2.3.1 Labor laws

Manufacturers will be held liable to all applicable US laws and regulations regardless of the intended recipient of the commodities.

BERRY AMENDMENT/PREFERENCE FOR CERTAIN DOMESTIC COMMODITIES: This acquisition is subject to the Berry Amendment, 10 USC 2241, and Defense Federal Acquisition Regulation Supplement (DFARS) Clause 252.225-7012 Preference For Certain Domestic Commodities (See Section I).

2.3.2 Quality Inspection Process: Manufacturers will be subject to random inspections at any time by Coalition uniformed and non-uniformed members and/or International Non-Government Organizations at the discretion of CSTC-A/CJ-4.

2.3.3 Standards to be used for the manufacture of the uniform. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

2.4 Directives for the packaging of the uniform.

2.4.1 Each shirt, trouser, and cap will contain a label printed in color fast ink on a olive green background. Threshold: The labels will be English (Objective: English and Dari). Threshold: Sizes shall be in English and Dari. For the shirt, the label will be placed on the inside of wearer’s right breast behind the pocket. For the trouser, the label will be placed 1 inch below the waistband centered on the rear.

Figure 4: Required Labeled Information

Item Description

Size

Referenced Specification #

Materials

Origin of Material

Origin of Manufacture

Contract Number

Care Instructions

Date of manufacture

ABP Shirt

Medium – Regular

ABP – 15SEP2011

Nylon/Cotton

Textiles sourced from: ABC Supplier, State, Country

Manufactured in: City, State, Country

W91TMD-08-3356

Machine cold, do not use bleach. Do not iron

2.4.2 Uniforms will have an additional wearer responsibility label inside in Dari. The shirt label location is on the inside of the shirt, centered on the collar. The trousers will have the label sewn on the inside near the fly on the wearer’s right side. The label will state:

Figure 5: Responsibility Tag

Property of the Afghanistan government. There are SEVERE penalties for persons who illegally have this uniform.

2.4.3 Shirts, trousers, and cap will be packaged together (unless contract states different) in bundles of 25. Each garment will be neatly folded. Each bundle shall consist on only one size. Each bundle shall be sealed in a clear plastic bag and in labeled box.

2.4.4 Each shipment shall have at least 4 different sizes of shirt and trousers (unless contract states different)

3. DETAILED UNIFORM COMPONENTS SPECIFICATIONS

3.1 Fabric. The fabric is a single material described below.

Figure 6: Fabric/Material Characteristics

Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.)

Breaking strength, lbs (min.)

Elongation, percent:

Threshold -

Objective -

Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)

Moisture vapor transmission

Rate, g/m2/24h (min.) -

Initial

Stiffness, in-lbs (max.)

Water permeability, cm (min.) -

Spray rating, rating

Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail -

Dynamic absorption, percent (max.)

Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

Colorfastness to:

Laundering Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.1.2 Textile make up. The cloth shall consist of a Nylon/Cotton blend.

3.1.3 Rip Resistance. The cloth shall resist further tearing (1 lb tension) no more than 0.25 inches after a tear/cut has occurred. All edges of the garment shall have perpendicular (twisting) tear resistance of 25 lbs and axial tension of 20 lbs for a 1” section.

3.1.4 Color/Pattern. The Six-color Desert Camouflage pattern shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the dyed, printed, and finished cloth shall be 36.00 inches (+1.25 inches, -2.50 inches) in the warp direction. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown by the standard sample in any of the printed areas shall not be acceptable.

3.1.5 Colors. The fabric shall have the following colors: Six-Color Desert Camouflage Patten.

3.1.5.1 Pattern.

Figure 8: ABP Pattern

3.1.6 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance in stitch and seam types. The backside of seams shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 10-14 stitches per inch. Overedge or prehemming shall be stitched with 6-10 stitches per inch. When the 5 thread safety stitch is used, it shall be sewn with 9 stitches per inch (min.). All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned in, turned under or overedged. All pocket flaps shall be overedged prior to setting.

3.1.6.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than ½ inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall over-lap not less than ½ inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.1.6.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching.

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of ½ inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of ½ inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of ½ inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner.

3.1.6.3 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provide the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.1.6.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/2 inch unless otherwise specified.

3.2 Thread.

3.2.1 The thread for all seaming and stitching shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I and Type II, Tex size 36-45. Overedge stitch shall be Tex size 36-50. V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon.

3.2.2 The thread color must blend into the camouflage pattern of the uniform.

3.3. Buttons. Four hole buttons will be used. The button material shall be high density plastic and tan in color to match uniform.

3.4 Tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape will have selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8 inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The use of hook and loop tape that is slit, has split edges or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn a minimum of 1/8 +/- 1/32 inch from bound selvage or from hook and loop tape edge to prevent needed cutting along the edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. (Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic)

3.5 Draw Strings: Drawstring shall be made of ¼” to 3/8” wide nylon or synthetic fabric. Tensile strength of the drawstring is 200 lbs or greater. The drawstring shall not unravel nor present any sharp edge to the wearer while using the drawstring.

4. BDU SHIRT

4.1 Front Closure. The Shirt shall use five buttons to close. The top most button will be exposed. The remainder four buttons will be behind a hidden pleat extending to the bottom of the shirt. Epaulet on top/outside of garment.

Figure 12: ABP UNIFORM SHIRT FRONT VIEW

Figure 13: ABP UNIFORM SHIRT BACK VIEW

6. ABP CAP

Figure 13: ABP CAP VIEW

Note: Velcro on rear of Cap to attach Tapes

6.1. Specifications for ABP Cap

6.2. Specifics:

6.2.1 Basic material. The cloth shall resist further tearing (1 lb tension) no more than 0.25 inches after a tear/cut has occurred. All edges of the garment shall have perpendicular (twisting) tear resistance of 25 lbs and axial tension of 20 lbs for a 1” section.

6.2.2 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I and Type II, Tex size 36-45. Overedge stitch shall be Tex size 36-50. V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon.

6.2.3 The thread color must blend into the camouflage pattern of the uniform, Six-Color Desert Pattern.

6.2.4 Visor Interlining. The visor interlining shall be a plastic high density polyethylene material weighing 12.0 to 14.5 grams per visor, having a thickness of 0.083 to 0.089 inch, and 40 to 60 percent stiffness when tested.

6.2.5 Eyelets. The eyelets shall be 3/16 inch diameter and be sewn with a minimum of 19 stitches each, with the purling on the outside. Material edges must not ravel. Raw edges may be turned in, turned under, or surged to prevent raveling. The color of the eyelets shall Pantone 148-1-2 C or Pantone 4495 U

6.2.6 Labels. Each cap shall have a size, identification and instruction label or a combination identification and instruction label. The color of the labels shall be white or approximate the ground shade of the basic fabric. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the cap. The size shall be marked with a numerical size 6 3/8 to 8 1/2. The size /instruction labels shall include the following information:

CAP, UTILITY

S

Contract Number

I 7 (EXAMPLE)

National Stock Number

Z

Fur, Wool or Fiber Products Act Information, as applicable E

Contractor Name

TABLE I. Physical Requirements of Components

Thread

Colorfastness

Visor

6.3 Design. The cap shall be a visor style, having a circular top crown, and a one piece self-lined side crown with a center back seam. The outside crown band shall be topstitched around the bottom of the side crown. The cap shall have 4 vents which are reinforced sewn eyelets uniformly positioned around the sides of the cap. The visor shall be quilted with six rows of evenly spaced parallel lockstitching and the inner edge of the visor interlining shall abut the bottom of the topstitched side crown band. The under visor cover shall overlap the top of the visor 1/4 inch and stitched through plies and interlining 3/16 to 1/4 inches from outer edge. The cap shall be topstitched around the top of the side crown (without catching inner lining), the top and bottom of the under visor cover, and along the center back seam.

6.4 Seams and stitching All seams shall be 10-14 stitches per inch except for the stitching through the visor and the stitches for seaming the visor cover together along the inner edge of the visor interlining (not through the interlining). These shall be 7 stitches per inch. Top stitching shall be performed using a 300 series lockstitch. All top stitching shall be 1/8 to 3/16 inch for the finished or folded edge. Seaming shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to the ASTM-D-6193 stitch types. The backside of all seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance or raw edges to create irritation or discomfort.

6.5 Sizes and Measurements. The finished caps shall conform to the measurements specified in Tables II and figure I.

6-3/8

6-1/2

6-5/8

6-3/4

6-7/8

7-1/8

7-1/4

7-3/8

7-1/2

7-5/8

7-3/4

7-7/8

8-1/8

8-1/4

8-3/8

8-1/2 20-1/8

20-1/2

20-7/8

21-1/4

21-5/8

22-3/8

22-3/4

23-1/8

23-1/2

23-7/8

24-1/4

24-3/8

25-3/8

25-3/4

26-1/8

26-1/2

Cap Dimensions (inches)

See Figure 1 for A, B, C, D, and E measurements

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