About this file

Attachment Two

View the file

Other files

File Type Posted
2nd Round of Questions Answers.docx DOCX document
Atch 1 - Field Jackets —
Questions Answers —
Atch 5 - CLIN 0011 —
Atch 1 - Field Jackets.docx DOCX document
Atch 3 - CLIN 0009.pdf PDF
Atch 6 - CLIN 0012.doc DOC document
Atch 4 - CLIN 0010.docx DOCX document
W56KJD-12-R-0001.doc DOC document
Atch 7 - CLIN 0013 ALP Spec.pdf PDF
Atch 8 - Past Performance Questionnaire.doc DOC document
Atch 5 - CLIN 0011.doc DOC document
Show all 12

On GovTribe

Work with this file

  • Download the original file
  • Contacts named in this file
  • Similar government files
  • Ask GovTribe AI about this file

Text version

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001

Attachment 2

AFGHANISTAN NATIONAL ARMY

ANA DIGITAL and APU

UNIFORM

SPECIFICATION

08 August 2009

Table of Contents

1. GENERAL PURPOSE

2. APPLICABLE STANDARDS……………..…..…………………………………………….5

3. DETAILED UNIFORM COMPONENTS SPECIFICATIONS……………………………….6

4. BDU SHIRT

5 TROUSERS COMPONENTS.

6. VERIFICATION

Table of Figures Figure 1: Afghan Army Shirt Fitment Chart………………………………………………………4

Figure 2: Afghan Army Trouser Fitment Chart………………………………………………...…4

Figure 3: Tariff sizing (in percentage)…………………………………………………………….4

Figure 4: Required Labeled Information………………………………………………………….5

Figure 5: Responsibility Tag (in Dari)…………………………………………………………….6

Figure 6: Fabric / Material Characteristics………………………………………………………..6

Figure 7: Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent)……..........................…….8 Figure 8: Figure 8 - ANA BDU Pattern in Sunlight………………………………………………9 Figure 9: ANA BDU Pattern in Fluorescent Lighting……………………………..………..……9 Figure 10: ANA BDU Shirt Cutters Minimum Pattern Count…………………………………..13

Figure 11: ANA BDU Shirt Component Specifications………………………………………

Figure 12: ANA BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT FRONT VIEW………………….……15

Figure 13: ANA BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT BACK VIEW…………………….…..16

Figure 14: ANA Trouser Minimum Cutters Pattern…………………………………………….18

Figure 15: ANA BDU Trouser Specification………………………………………...………….19

Figure 16: Trouser ANA Combat Uniform……………………………………….…………….20

Figure 17: End Item Visual Examination……………………………………………..…………22

1. GENERAL PURPOSE

1.1 The purpose of this specification is to set the standard for manufacturers to follow when providing uniforms to the Afghan Army. Deviations are only authorized via a contractual change letter from the servicing contract agency.

1.2 The specification herein describes the Afghan National Army (ANA) uniform. The uniform is for wear by military personnel in the Afghanistan National Army as a combat uniform in combat missions. The uniform consists of a shirt and trouser. This uniform will be worn throughout the ranks, officer and enlisted and all special units such as commandos, Afghan Partnering Unit (APU) and the Air Corps.

1.3 Sizing:

Both the shirt and trousers will come in various sizes to support the Afghan population.

Figure 1: Afghan Army Shirt Fitment Chart

Element
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large

Short

Shirt:

chest – 21 ½” arm length – 23” Shirt:

chest – 23 ½” arm length – 23 ½” Shirt:

chest – 25 ½” arm length – 24”

Regular
Shirt:

chest – 21 ½” arm length – 24” Shirt:

chest – 23 ½” arm length – 24 ½” Shirt:

chest – 25 ½” arm length – 25” Shirt:

chest – 27 ½” arm length – 26”

Long

Shirt:

chest – 23 ½” arm length – 25 ½” Shirt:

chest – 25 ½” arm length – 26” Shirt:

chest – 27 ½” arm length – 27”

· Chest measurement is taken from folded edge to fold edge 1” down from the bottom of armhole. (1/2 measurement)

· Arm length measured from outside and top of shoulder to wrist.

Figure 2: Afghan Army Trouser Fitment Chart

Element
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large
Short
Pants:

waist – 15-14 ½” outseam – 38” Pants:

waist – 18-20” outseam 39” Pants:

waist – 20-22” outseam - 40”

Regular
Pants:

waist – 15-14 ½” outseam – 40” Pants:

waist – 18-20” outseam - 41” Pants:

waist – 20-22” outseam - 42” Pants:

waist - 24” outseam - 44”

Long

Pants:

waist – 18-20” outseam - 44” Pants:

waist – 20-22” outseam - 45” Pants:

waist - 24” outseam - 47”

· Pant Outseam measured from top of belt line to the floor without shoes or boots. Pants will be made slightly shorter to accommodate blousing the pant leg inside boots.

· Waist is measured flat from edge to edge at top of waist (1/2 measurement)

Figure 3: Tariff Sizing (in percentage)

Element
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large
Short
4
14
6
Regular
10
25
16
1

Long

12
8
4

2. APPLICABLE STANDARDS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are to be used as guide for the manufacture and packaging of the uniform.

2.2 Order of precedence.

2.3.1 Specific contract language (or contract modifications).

2.3.2 This specification.

2.3.3 Commercial standards.

2.3.4 Other reference material listed in this document.

2.3 Directives for the manufacture of the uniform.

2.3.1 Labor laws

Manufacturers will be held liable to all applicable US laws and regulations regardless of the intended recipient of the commodities.

BERRY AMENDMENT/PREFERENCE FOR CERTAIN DOMESTIC COMMODITIES: This acquisition is subject to the Berry Amendment, 10 USC 2241, and Defense Federal Acquisition Regulation Supplement (DFARS) Clause 252.225-7012 Preference For Certain Domestic Commodities (See Section I).

2.3.2 Quality Inspection Process: Manufacturers will be subject to random inspections at any time by Coalition uniformed and non-uniformed members and/or International Non-Government Organizations at the discretion of CSTC-A/CJ-4.

2.3.3 Standards to be used for the manufacture of the uniform. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

2.4 Directives for the packaging of the uniform.

2.4.1 Each shirt and trouser will contain a label printed in color fast ink on a olive green background. Threshold: The labels will be English (Objective: English and Dari). Threshold: Sizes shall be in English and Dari. For the shirt, the label will be placed on the inside of wearer’s right breast behind the pocket. For the trouser, the label will be placed 1 inch below the waistband centered on the rear.

Figure 4: Required Labeled Information

Required Labeled Information
Example Only

Item Description

Size

Referenced Specification #

Materials

Origin of Material

Origin of Manufacture

Contract Number

Care Instructions

Date of manufacture

ANA Shirt

Medium – Regular

ANA – 0001-25NOV2007

Nylon/Cotton

Textiles sourced from: ABC Supplier, State, Country

Manufactured in: City, State, Country

W91TMD-08-3356

Machine cold, do not use bleach. Do not iron

2.4.2 Uniforms will have an additional wearer responsibility label inside in Dari. The shirt label location is on the inside of the shirt, centered on the collar. The trousers will have the label sewn on the inside near the fly on the wearer’s right side. The label will state:

Figure 5: Responsibility Tag

Property of the Afghanistan government. There are SEVERE penalties for persons who illegally have this uniform.

2.4.3 Shirts and trousers will be packaged separately (unless contract states different) in bundles of 25. Each garment will be neatly folded. Each bundle shall consist on only one size. Each bundle shall be sealed in a clear plastic bag and in labeled box.

2.4.4 Each shipment shall have at least 4 different sizes of shirt and trousers (unless contract states different)

3. DETAILED UNIFORM COMPONENTS SPECIFICATIONS

3.1 Fabric. The fabric is a single material described below.

Figure 6: Fabric/Material Characteristics

Characteristic
Requirement

Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.)

Threshold (allowable range)
6.5 – 5.75

Breaking strength, lbs (min.)

Warp, Objective
165
Warp, Threshold
145
Filling
125

Elongation, percent:

Threshold -

Warp
30-80
Filling
60-120

Objective -

Warp
35-60
Filling
70-100

Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)

Warp
8.0
Filling
8.0
Air Permeability, ft3/ft2/min. (max)
5

Moisture vapor transmission

Rate, g/m2/24h (min.) -

Initial

Threshold
600
Objective
1200

Stiffness, in-lbs (max.)

At 70ºF, Objective
0.001
Threshold
0.002
At 32ºF, Objective
0.001
Threshold
0.002
Blocking, rating (max.)
No. 2

Water permeability, cm (min.) -

Initial
30

Spray rating, rating

Initial
100, 100, 90
After 5 launderings
100, 90, 90

Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail -

Initial
No wetting

Dynamic absorption, percent (max.)

Threshold
25.0
Objective
4.0

Dimensional stability, percent (max.)

Warp
5.5
Filling
5.0
Color
ANA Camouflage pattern
Pattern Execution
Pass

Colorfastness to:

Laundering Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

Light
Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change
Crocking
Equal to or better than the standard sample or not less than AATCC chromatic transference scale rating of 3.5
Toxicity
1/

1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.

3.1.2 Textile make up. The cloth shall consist of a Nylon/Cotton blend.

3.1.3 Rip Resistance. The cloth shall resist further tearing (1 lb tension) no more than 0.25 inches after a tear/cut has occurred. All edges of the garment shall have perpendicular (twisting) tear resistance of 25 lbs and axial tension of 20 lbs for a 1” section.

3.1.4 Color/Pattern. The Spec4ce Afghan Forest pattern shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas of the ANA Digital Uniform. The Ghostex Kilo-1 pattern shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas of the Afghan Partnering Unit (APU) Uniform. For ANA Digital, the pattern repeat of the dyed, printed, and finished cloth shall be 36.00 inches (+1.25 inches, -2.50 inches) in the warp direction. The pattern has the Afghanistan flag incorporated into the print pattern. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown by the standard sample in any of the printed areas shall not be acceptable.

3.1.5 Colors (Spectral reflectance). The fabric shall have the following colors:

The spectral reflectance of the colors in the Spec4ce Afghan Forest Camouflage cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Figure 7, initially and after laundering when tested as specified. The Ghostex Kilo-1 fabric has its own colors/patterns. The colors and pattern examples are proprietary property of HyperStealth biotechnology corp.

Figure 7: Spectral Reflectance Requirements: Reflectance (percent).

Wavelength
KHAKI

Pantone color Min #__TBD_

Max #__ TBD _

GREEN

Pantone color

Min #_ TBD _

Max #_ TBD _

BROWN

Pantone color

Min #_ TBD __

Max #__ TBD _

BLACK

Pantone color

Min #__ TBD _

Max #_ TBD _

Nanometers (nm)
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
600
15
29
4
18
1
1
1
1
620
19
33
4
18
1
1
1
1
640
22
38
4
18
2
2
2
2
660
27
48
4
20
2
2
2
2
680
36
55
5
35
2
2
2
2
700
42
65
12
35
4
4
4
4
720
47
70
20
48
5
5
5
5
740
48
76
26
45
15
15
15
15
760
50
80
35
51
18
18
18
18
780
54
80
35
51
18
18
18
18
800
54
80
38
56
18
18
18
18
820
54
80
38
56
20
20
20
20
840
56
82
38
56
20
20
20
20
860
56
82
40
56
20
20
20
20

3.1.5.1 Pattern.

Figure 8: ANA BDU Pattern in Sunlight

Figure 9: ANA BDU Pattern in Fluorescent Lighting

3.1.6 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance in stitch and seam types. The backside of seams shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 10-14 stitches per inch. Overedge or prehemming shall be stitched with 6-10 stitches per inch. When the 5 thread safety stitch is used, it shall be sewn with 9 stitches per inch (min.). All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned in, turned under or overedged. All pocket flaps shall be overedged prior to setting.

3.1.6.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than ½ inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall over-lap not less than ½ inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.1.6.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching.

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of ½ inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of ½ inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of ½ inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner.

3.1.6.3 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provide the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.1.6.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/2 inch unless otherwise specified.

3.2 Thread.

3.2.1 The thread for all seaming and stitching shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I and Type II, Tex size 36-45. Overedge stitch shall be Tex size 36-50. V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon.

3.2.2 The thread color must blend into the camouflage pattern of the uniform.

3.3. Buttons. Four hole buttons will be used. The button material shall be high density plastic and green or olive drab in color.

3.4 Tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape will have selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8 inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The use of hook and loop tape that is slit, has split edges or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn a minimum of 1/8 +/- 1/32 inch from bound selvage or from hook and loop tape edge to prevent needed cutting along the edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. (Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic)

3.5 Draw Strings: Drawstring shall be made of ¼” to 3/8” wide nylon or synthetic fabric. Tensile strength of the drawstring is 200 lbs or greater. The drawstring shall not unravel nor present any sharp edge to the wearer while using the drawstring.

3.6 Slide fasteners (Zipper). The slide fastener shall be a two way separating, non-reversible, automatic locking slider, Size 5 or larger, plastic individual element fastener. The slide fastener tape will be polyester. Zipper (Fastener, Slide Interlocking).

4. BDU SHIRT

4.1 Front Closure. The Shirt shall use five buttons to close. The top most button will be exposed. The remainder four buttons will be behind a hidden pleat extending to the bottom of the shirt.

4.2 Sleeve pocket. The pocket is a bellows type. Each pocket shall have a 4 inch wide loop fastener tape sewn on and positioned 1/8 inch from top and bottom of pocket. The loop shall additionally be stitched through the center only to the pocket. Pockets on the APU version of uniform are canted 30 degrees.

4.3. Sleeve pocket flap Each pocket flap shall have a 4 inches wide by 2 inches long loop fastener tape centered and sewn onto flap. The pocket flap underside shall have two pieces of hook fastener tape 1 inch wide by 1 ¼ inch long and one piece of loop fastener tape 1 inch wide by 1 inch long.

4.4 Pencil pocket The left sleeve shall have a three channel pencil pocket above the sleeve cuff.

4.5 Sleeve cuff The sleeve cuff shall have loop fastener tape, 1 ½ inched wide sewn onto it. The sleeve cuff adjustment tab (1 ½ inch wide by 3” in length including arrow-head tip) shall have hook fastener tape 1 ½ inches wide by 2 inches long sewn to the underside for closure adjustment.

4.6 Elbow patches Each sleeve shall have an elbow patch sewn on with opening on top for foam inserts. The elbow patch shall have a drain opening on the bottom of approximately 1 inch and 5/8 inch wide hook and loop fastener tape top closure.

4.7 Chest pockets The two chest pockets shall be angled inward toward the facing using 5/8 inch wide fastener tape for closure. The chest pockets on the APU version of this uniform shall be canted 20 degrees.

4.8 Center Velcro strip shall be 9 centimeters long and 4.5 centimeters wide. The strip of the shall be double stitched all around. .

4.9 Chest pocket flaps The chest pocket flaps shall be angled inward toward the facing using 5/8 inch wide fastener tape for closure.

4.10 Hem seam. The shirt hem shall be ¾ inch wide, double turned and clean finished

4.11 Patterns. Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of ½ inch for all seams. The pattern list in Table IV is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

4.12.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Figure 10.

Figure 10: ANA BDU Shirt Cutters Minimum Pattern Count

PIECE NAME
FABRIC
QTY
1
FRONT
SELF
CUT 2 - Mirrored
2
BACK
SELF
CUT 1 FACE UP
3
TOP_SLEEVE
SELF
CUT 2
4
UNDER_SLEEVE
SELF
CUT 2
5
COLLAR – APU utilizes a Mandarin Collar
SELF
CUT 2
6
CUFF_TAB
SELF
CUT 2
7
LFT_PEN_PKT
SELF
CUT 1 FACE UP
8
ELBOW_PATCH
SELF
CUT 2
9
SLEEVE_PKT
SELF
CUT 2
10
SLEEVE_PKT_FLAP
SELF
CUT 2
11
CHEST_PKT
SELF
CUT 2
12
CHEST_PKT_FLAP
SELF
CUT 2
13
SIDE_BACK
SELF
CUT 2

4.11 Finished measurements. The finished shirt measurements shall be in accordance with Figure 11.

Figure 11: ANA BDU Shirt Component Specifications

Small
Medium
Large
X- Large
Allowance
Garment Components
inches
inches
inches
inches
+/- 0.5"
Neck Circumference
16
16.5
17.5
19.5
+/- 0.5"
Collar Point – May vary with APU Mandarin Collar
3
3
3
3
+/- 1"
Collar Spread
6
6
6
6
+/- 1"
Front Neck Drop
3.5
3.5
3.5
3.5
+/- 0.25"
Back Neck Drop
0
0
0
0
+/- 1/2"
Cross Shoulder
18.5
19.5
20.5
22.5
+/- 1"
Forward Shoulder
1
1
1
1
+/- 0.5"
Cross Front (4" down armhole)
17
18
19
21
+/- 0.5"
Cross Back (4" down armhole)
18
19
20
22
+/- 0.5"
Chest 1" Below Armhole
43
47
51
59
+/- 0.5"
Length from HPS to Hem
28
29
30
32
N/A
Waist from HPS*
17
18
19
21
+/- 1"
Waist
41
45
49
57
+/- 1"
Bottom Hem Width
44
48
52
60
+/- 1"
Armhole Circumference
23
24
25
27
+/- 0.5"
Total Sleeve Length
24
24.5
25
26
+/- 1"
Sleeve Width at Bicep
18
19
20
22
+/- 0.5"
Cuff Opening
6.5
6.75
7
7.5
+/- 0.5"
Cuff Width
2
2
2
2
+/- 0.5"
Cuff Hook/Loop Width x Length/Height
8 x 1.5
8 x 1.5
8 x 1.5
8 x 1.5
+/- 0.5"
Length of Cuff Closure Flap
3
3
3
3
+/- 0.5"
Cuff Closure Velcro Width x Height
2 x 1.5
2 x 1.5
2 x 1.5
2 x 1.5
+/- 0.5"
Breast Pocket Height
6
6
6
6
+/- 0.5"
Breast Pocket Width
5.75
5.75
5.75
5.75
+/- 0.5"
Breast Pocket Flap Height
1.5
1.5
1.5
1.5
+/- 0.5"
Name Tag Hook/Loop Width x Height
5 x 1
5 x 1
5 x 1
5 x 1
+/- 0.5"
Name Tag Distance from HPS*
6
6
6
6
+/- 0.5"
Center Placket Velcro strip
1.8X3.6
1.8X3.6
1.8X3.6
1.8X3.6
+/- 0.25"
Bicep Pocket Height
7
7
7
7
+/- 0.25"
Bicep Pocket Width
5
5
5
5
+/- 0.25"
Bicep Pocket Flap Height
2
2
2
2
+/- 0.25"
Pen Pocket Height
5.75
5.75
5.75
5.75
+/- 0.25"
Pen Pocket Width
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.5
+/- 0.25"
Center Front Placket Width
1.5
1.5
1.5
1.5
+/- 0.5"
Elbow Patch Height
8.25
8.25
8.25
8.25
+/- 0.5"
Elbow Patch Width at Top side
8.25
8.25
8.25
8.25
+/- 0.5"
Elbow Patch Width at Bottom Side
6.5
6.5
6.5
6.5
+/- 0.5"
Elbow pad Hook/loop Closure Width x Height
6 x .5
6 x .5
6 x .5
6 x .5
+/- 0.5"
Length of Back Shoulder Pleat
11
11
11
11
+/- 0.5"
Depth of Back Shoulder Pleat
1
1
1.5
1.5

Bolded values represent regular sizes but will be modified for fitment according to the BDU fitment chart.

Figure 12: ANA BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT FRONT VIEW Figure 13: ANA BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT BACK VIEW

5 TROUSERS COMPONENTS.

5.1 Fasteners. The four buttons for the fly shall be evenly spaced. The buttonholes shall be horizontal. The drawcord for the internal waistband shall conform to the following requirements: 1000 denier textured nylon cover yarn, basket weave braid construction, 11 picks/inch minimum, 44 carriers, 1 end/carrier, 12/32 +/- 1/32 inch and 430 lbs. tensile strength. The drawstring shall be knotted at both ends. Buttons shall be dull finish, 4 holes, 30 ligne conforming to V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 26. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking and show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lbs.

5.2 Fly. The trouser fly shall be a covered fly with a three buttons closure and 1 button and buttonhole closure on the waistband. The buttonhole shall be horizontal. The fly shall have “J” stitching 2 inches from fly edge. The top fly edge shall be edge stitched 1/16 – 1/8 in.

5.3 Fastener tape, hook and loop The use of hook and loop tape that is slit, has split edges or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn a minimum of 1/8 +/- 1/32 inch from bound selvage or from hook and loop tape edge to prevent needed cutting along the edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment.

5.4 Waistband The waistband shall have clean finished edges with a button and buttonhole closure. The waistband also has a drawcord, inserted through ½ inch straight cut vertical buttonholes with knotted ends for waist adjustment.

5.5 Belt Loops The trouser shall have seven belt loops measuring 1.25 inch wide. The belt loop placement shall be as follows: one loop on each side seam, one on back seam, one on each front centered between side seam and waistband end and one on each back side centered between side seam and back seam.

5.6 Seat patch. The trouser shall have a double needle seat patch. The seat patch and cut of the pant legs need will allow full squat and 180 degree leg articulation.

5.7 Knee patches The trousers shall have a knee patch hidden pocket on each leg, for foam inserts, with opening on the bottom and hook and loop closures. The hook and loop tape for the closure shall be 5/8 inch wide.

5.8 Crotch. To avoid current tearing problems the crotch shall have a 1/2" overlap with triple stitching. The resulting pull strength needs to be 100 lbs +/- 15 lbs.

5.9 Pockets and Flaps

5.9 1 Front side pockets The trousers shall have two front side hanging pockets.

5.9.2 Hip Pockets The trousers hall have back left and right single welt hip pockets with double button enclosures.The cut out for the pocket shall be edged. Material used for the pocket will be the same as the rest of the garment.The rear Hip pockets will have a flap closure with hidden button holes. This flap will use to buttons to close..

5.9.3 Cargo Pockets and Flaps: The trouser shall have two pleated bellows cargo pockets with flaps. The cargo pockets and flaps shall be closed with two buttons. The cargo pockets shall use a hidden flap/button hole design..

5.9 4 Lower leg pockets and flaps The trousers shall have two lower leg bellows pockets with flaps.

The pockets shall close with hook and loop tape.

5.9.5 Leg bottom and hem The leg bottoms shall be hemmed and shall have a drawstring inserted through two sewn-on eyelets or two ½ inch horizontal straight cut buttonholes. The drawstring shall be knotted at both ends. The finished hem shall measure 1 inch wide.

5.10 Patterns. Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of ½ inch for all seams. The pattern list in Figure 14 is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

5.10.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Figure 14.

Figure 14: ANA Trouser Minimum Cutters Pattern

PIECE NAME
FABRIC
QTY
1
FRONT
SELF
CUT 2
2
BACK
SELF
CUT 2
3
LEFT_FLY
SELF
CUT 1 FACE UP
4
RIGHT_FLY
SELF
CUT 1 FACE UP
5
SEAT_PATCH
SELF
CUT 2
6
KNEE_PATCH
SELF
CUT 2
7
SIDE_PKT
SELF
CUT 2
8
WAISTBAND
SELF
CUT 2
9
CARGO_PKT
SELF
CUT 2
10
CARGO_PKT_FLAP
SELF
CUT 2
11
LOW_LEG_PKT
SELF
CUT 2
12
LOW_LEG_PKT_FLAP
SELF
CUT 2
13
HIP_PKT
SELF
CUT 2
14
HIP_PKT_FLAP
SELF
CUT 2
15
BELT_LOOP
SELF
CUT 7

5.9.2 Finished measurements. The trouser finished measurements shall be in accordance with Figure 15.

Figure 15: ANA BDU Trouser Specification

1” allowances are to allow manufactures to center items vertically in the various size/fitments Bolded values represent regular sizes but will be modified for fitment according to the BDU fitment chart.

Figure 16: Trouser ANA Combat Uniform

6. VERIFICATION

6.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 6.2).

6.2 First article inspection. When a first article is required, it shall be examined for the defects specified in Figure 18.

6.3 Conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with this specification, except where otherwise specified.

6.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials in the end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

6.4.1 Component and material certification. Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance will be acceptable as evidence that the requirements of 3.1 and Figure 6 are met. When certificate of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

6.5 Basic material testing. The basic material specified in 3.1 through 3.1.5.2 shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Figure 17 in accordance with the test method cited.

Figure 17: End Item Visual Examination Classification

Examination
Defect
Major
Minor

Material defects and damages

Any smash, multiple float or loose slub

Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole

Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/

Cleanliness
Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on a any

portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.

Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment

Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment

Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable

Component and assembly Any defective component 1/

Any component part omitted

Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/

Slide fastener

Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective

Not closing as specified

Length not as specified

Color not as specified

Thong not as specified

Wrist tabs

Missing

Improperly located 1/

Labels

Missing, illegible, or incorrect

Incorrectly placed or attached

Accuracy of seaming
Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/

Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than ½ inch

Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than ½ inch

Color not as specified

Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified

Edge of seam tape less than 1/8 inch from seam allowance

Seam tape lifting off fabric

Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric) in excess of

3/16 inch width or ½ inch in length at any location along a taped seam

Open seams

More than 1/8 inch up to ¼ inch

More than ¼ inch

NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam

118
218
Seams and stitching
Not specified seam or stitch type

Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/

119
219
Stitch tension
Loose tension in any area:

- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches

- more than 2-inches

Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching)

Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/

Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam) Less than minimum specified:

- one stitch

- two or more stitches

More than maximum specified

123
222
Pockets and flaps
Flap attached crookedly, i.e., distance between sides of

pocket and underside of opened flap varies more than

¼-inch

Pocket or flap poorly shaped

Flap not covering front or back edge of pocket by 3/16 inch or more

Insignia tab set crookedly

Pocket divider not properly placed

Repairs
Any heat sealing repairs extending beyond 25 inches in

length

More than five repairs on any one item 1/

Shaded part
Variation in shade within an outside part 1/

Any part required to be cut form one piece on material shaded 1/

NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3 feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.

Fronts

Length of fronts Hem uneven by ¼ inch or more at bottom when fastened

Uneven by ¼ inch or more at neck when fastened

Flaps uneven by more than ¼ inch when fastened

Left flap less than ¼ inch longer at bottom than right flap when fastened

Label/tag
Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner

Human-readable-interpretation (HRI)) omitted or illegible

Not attached to location specified

Causes damage to the garment

128
235

Fastener tape hook & pile Not properly placed

Not specified length

129
238

PAGE

_1384082910.xls Sheet1

S M L XL

Allowance Garment Components Small Medium Large X - Large

+/- 1" Outseam (from bottom waistband) 40 41 42 44

+/- 0.5" Waist Relaxed 30-35 36-40 40-44 48

+/- 1" Hip 8" Below Waist 39 42 46 54

+/- 0.5" Front Rise 12 12.5 13 14

+/- 0.5" Back Rise 16.5 17.5 18.5 19.5

+/- 0.5" Thigh Circumference (1" below crotch) 25.5 28.5 28.5 31.5

+/- 0.5" Knee Circumference (12" below crotch) 22 23.5 25 26

+/- 0.5" Bottom Hem Circumference 17 18 19 21

+/- 0.5" Interior Waistband Height 2 2 2 2

+/- 1" Height of Front Fly 8.5 9 10 12

N/A Number of Belt Loops 7 7 7 7

+/- .250" Belt Loop Width 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25

+/- .250" Belt Loop Height 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75

+/- 0.5" Front Side Pocket Opening 9 9 9 9

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Height - outer side 11 11 11 11

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Width 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Flap Height 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25

+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Pleat Depth 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75

+/- 1" Distance of Thigh Pocket from Top Waist 11 11 11 11

+/- 1" Distance of Knee Pocket from Top Waist 30 30 30 30

+/- 0.5" Knee Pocket Height 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5

+/- 0.5" Knee Pocket Width 4.25 4.25 4.25 4.25

+/- .250" Knee Pocket Flap Height 2 2 2 2

+/- .250" Back Pocket Flap Height 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25

+/- 0.5" Back Pocket Width 6 6 6 6

+/- 0.5" Knee Patch Height 8.75 9 9.5 10.5

+/- 1" Seat Patch Width (single side) 8 8 9 9.5

+/- 1" Seat Patch Height 17.5 17.5 18 18.5

File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .