Atch 4 - CLIN 0010.docx
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Text version
AFGHANISTAN NATIONAL CIVIL ORDER POLICE
UNIFORM
SPECIFICATION
11 May 2010
Sources: Information sources for this specification are the ANCOP senior leaders, CSTC-A Senior Leadership, MPRI and Dynacorp Mentors. Significant design cues from the current US Army Combat Uniform (ACU) were liberally used in the design of the uniform. All rights to intellectual data in this specification are the property of the US government.
Table of Contents
1. GENERAL PURPOSE …………………………………………………………………………………………….3
2. APPLICABLE STANDARDS…………………………………………………………………………………
3. DETAILED UNIFORM COMPONENTS SPECIFICATIONS…………………………………………………
4. BDU SHIRT…………………………………………………………………………………………………….…..8
5 TROUSERS COMPONENTS…………………………………………………………………………………….13
6. VERIFICATION………………………………………………………………………………………………….17
Table of Figures
Figure 1: Afghan Army Shirt Fitment Chart…………………………………………………………………….…….3 Figure 2: Afghan Army Trouser Fitment Chart………………………………………………………………….....…3 Figure 3: Tariff sizing (in percentage)…………………………………………………………………………….…..4 Figure 4: Required Labeled Information……………………………………………………………………………...5 Figure 5: Responsibility Tag (in Dari)………………………………………………………………………………..5 Figure 6: Fabric / Material Characteristics……………………………………………………………………….…...5 Figure 7: ANCOP BDU Shirt Cutters Minimum Pattern Count……………………………………………………...9 Figure 8: ANCOP BDU Shirt Component Specifications……………………………………………………… Figure 9: ANCOP BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT FRONT VIEW………….…...…………………….…..11 Figure 10: ANCOP BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT BACK VIEW…………...…..………………………...12 Figure 11: ANCOP Trouser Minimum Cutters Pattern……………………………………………………………..14 Figure 12: ANCOP BDU Trouser Specification………………………………………...………………………….15 Figure 13: Trouser ANCOP Combat Uniform……………………………………….…………………………….16 Figure 14: End Item Visual Examination……………………………………………..…………………………….17
1. GENERAL PURPOSE
1.1 The purpose of this specification is to set the standard for manufacturers to follow when providing uniforms to the Afghan National Civil Order Police (ANCOP). Deviations are only authorized via a contractual change letter from the servicing contract agency.
1.2 The specification herein describes the Afghan National Civil Order Police (ANCOP) uniform. The uniform is for wear by military personnel in the Afghan National Civil Order Police (ANCOP) as a combat uniform in combat missions. The uniform consists of a shirt and trouser. This uniform will be worn throughout the ranks, officer and enlisted and all special units such as commandos and the Air Corps.
1.3 Sizing:
Both the shirt and trousers will come in various sizes to support the Afghan population.
Figure 1: Afghan Army Shirt Fitment Chart
| Element |
| Small |
| Medium |
| Large |
| Extra Large |
Short
Shirt:
chest – 21 ½” arm length – 23” Shirt:
chest – 23 ½” arm length – 23 ½” Shirt:
chest – 25 ½” arm length – 24”
| Regular |
| Shirt: |
chest – 21 ½” arm length – 24” Shirt:
chest – 23 ½” arm length – 24 ½” Shirt:
chest – 25 ½” arm length – 25” Shirt:
chest – 27 ½” arm length – 26”
Long
Shirt:
chest – 23 ½” arm length – 25 ½”
Shirt:
chest – 25 ½” arm length – 26” Shirt:
chest – 27 ½” arm length – 27”
1. Chest measurement is taken from folded edge to fold edge 1” down from the bottom of armhole. (1/2 measurement)
1. Arm length measured from outside and top of shoulder to wrist.
Figure 2: Afghan Army Trouser Fitment Chart
| Element |
| Small |
| Medium |
| Large |
| Extra Large |
| Short |
| Pants: |
waist – 15-14 ½” outseam – 38” Pants:
waist – 18-20” outseam 39” Pants:
waist – 20-22” outseam - 40”
| Regular |
| Pants: |
waist – 15-14 ½” outseam – 40” Pants:
waist – 18-20” outseam - 41” Pants:
waist – 20-22” outseam - 42” Pants:
waist - 24” outseam - 44”
Long
Pants:
waist – 18-20” outseam - 44” Pants:
waist – 20-22” outseam - 45” Pants:
waist - 24” outseam - 47”
1. Pant Outseam measured from top of belt line to the floor without shoes or boots. Pants will be made slightly shorter to accommodate blousing the pant leg inside boots.
1. Waist is measured flat from edge to edge at top of waist (1/2 measurement)
Figure 3: Tariff Sizing (in percentage)
| Element |
| Small |
| Medium |
| Large |
| Extra Large |
| Short |
| 4 |
| 14 |
| 6 |
| Regular |
| 10 |
| 25 |
| 16 |
| 1 |
Long
| 12 |
| 8 |
| 4 |
2. APPLICABLE STANDARDS
2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are to be used as guide for the manufacture and packaging of the uniform.
2.2 Order of precedence.
0. Specific contract language (or contract modifications).
0. This specification.
0. Commercial standards.
0. Other reference material listed in this document.
2.3 Directives for the manufacture of the uniform.
2.3.1 Labor laws
Manufacturers will be held liable to all applicable US laws and regulations regardless of the intended recipient of the commodities.
BERRY AMENDMENT/PREFERENCE FOR CERTAIN DOMESTIC COMMODITIES: This acquisition is subject to the Berry Amendment, 10 USC 2241, and Defense Federal Acquisition Regulation Supplement (DFARS) Clause 252.225-7012 Preference For Certain Domestic Commodities (See Section I).
2.3.2 Quality Inspection Process: Manufacturers will be subject to random inspections at any time by Coalition uniformed and non-uniformed members and/or International Non-Government Organizations at the discretion of CSTC-A/CJ-4.
2.3.3 Standards to be used for the manufacture of the uniform. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.
2.4 Directives for the packaging of the uniform.
2.4.1 Each shirt and trouser will contain a label printed in color fast ink on a olive green background. Threshold: The labels will be English (Objective: English and Dari). Threshold: Sizes shall be in English and Dari. For the shirt, the label will be placed on the inside of wearer’s right breast behind the pocket. For the trouser, the label will be placed 1 inch below the waistband centered on the rear.
Figure 4: Required Labeled Information
| Required Labeled Information |
| Example: |
Item Description Size Referenced Specification # Materials Origin of Material Origin of Manufacture Contract Number Care Instructions Date of manufacture
ANCOP Shirt Medium – Regular
ANCOP – 0001-25NOV2007
Nylon/Cotton Textiles sourced from: ABC Supplier, State, Country Manufactured in: City, State, Country
W91TMD-08-3356
Machine cold, do not use bleach. Do not iron
2.4.2 Uniforms will have an additional wearer responsibility label inside in Dari. The shirt label location is on the inside of the shirt, centered on the collar. The trousers will have the label sewn on the inside near the fly on the wearer’s right side. The label will state:
Figure 5: Responsibility Tag Property of the Afghanistan government. There are SEVERE penalties for persons who illegally have this uniform.
2.4.3 Shirts and trousers will be packaged separately (unless contract states different) in bundles of 25. Each garment will be neatly folded. Each bundle shall consist on only one size. Each bundle shall be sealed in a clear plastic bag and in labeled box.
2.4.4 Each shipment shall have at least 4 different sizes of shirt and trousers (unless contract states different)
3. DETAILED UNIFORM COMPONENTS SPECIFICATIONS
3.1 Fabric. The fabric is a single material described below.
Figure 6: Fabric/Material Characteristics
| Characteristic |
| Requirement |
Weight, oz/sq. yd (max.)
| Threshold (allowable range) |
| 6.5 – 5.75 |
Breaking strength, lbs (min.)
| Warp, Objective |
| 165 |
| Warp, Threshold |
| 145 |
| Filling |
| 125 |
Elongation, percent:
Threshold -
| Warp |
| 30-80 |
| Filling |
| 60-120 |
Objective -
| Warp |
| 35-60 |
| Filling |
| 70-100 |
Tearing Strength, lbs. (min.)
| Warp |
| 8.0 |
| Filling |
| 8.0 |
| Air Permeability, ft3/ft2/min. (max) |
| 5 |
Moisture vapor transmission
Rate, g/m2/24h (min.) -
Initial
| Threshold |
| 600 |
| Objective |
| 1200 |
Stiffness, in-lbs (max.)
| At 70ºF, Objective |
| 0.001 |
| Threshold |
| 0.002 |
| At 32ºF, Objective |
| 0.001 |
| Threshold |
| 0.002 |
| Blocking, rating (max.) |
| No. 2 |
Water permeability, cm (min.) -
| Initial |
| 30 |
Spray rating, rating
| Initial |
| 100, 100, 90 |
| After 5 launderings |
| 100, 90, 90 |
Resistance to organic liquid, pass/fail -
| Initial |
| No wetting |
Dynamic absorption, percent (max.)
| Threshold |
| 25.0 |
| Objective |
| 4.0 |
Dimensional stability, percent (max.)
| Warp |
| 5.5 |
| Filling |
| 5.0 |
| Color |
| ANCOP Sierra Camouflage pattern |
| Pattern Execution |
| Pass |
Colorfastness to:
Laundering Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change
| Light |
| Equal to or better than “3-4” rating on AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change |
| Crocking |
| Equal to or better than the standard sample or not less than AATCC chromatic transference scale rating of 3.5 |
| Toxicity |
| 1/ |
1/ The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended.
3.1.2 Textile make up. The cloth shall consist of a Nylon/Cotton blend.
3.1.3 Rip Resistance. The cloth shall resist further tearing (1 lb tension) no more than 0.25 inches after a tear/cut has occurred. All edges of the garment shall have perpendicular (twisting) tear resistance of 25 lbs and axial tension of 20 lbs for a 1” section.
3.1.4 Color/Pattern. The ANCOP Spec4ce Sierra Camouflage pattern shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the dyed, printed, and finished cloth shall be 36.00 inches (+1.25 inches, -2.50 inches) in the warp direction. . The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown by the standard sample in any of the printed areas shall not be acceptable.
3.1.5 Colors (Spectral reflectance). The fabric shall have the following colors:
The spectral reflectance of the colors in the ANCOP Spec4ce Sierra Camouflage cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in attachement, initially and after laundering when tested as specified. The colors and pattern examples are proprietary property of HyperStealth biotechnology corp.
3.1.5.1 Pattern. ANCOP Spec4ce Sierra Camouflage
3.1.6 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance in stitch and seam types. The backside of seams shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 10-14 stitches per inch. Overedge or prehemming shall be stitched with 6-10 stitches per inch. When the 5 thread safety stitch is used, it shall be sewn with 9 stitches per inch (min.). All material edges shall be clean finished, either turned in, turned under or overedged. All pocket flaps shall be overedged prior to setting.
3.1.6.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than ½ inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall over-lap not less than ½ inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.
3.1.6.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching.
a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of ½ inch back of the end of the stitching.
b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of ½ inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of ½ inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner.
3.1.6.3 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provide the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying, overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.
3.1.6.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/2 inch unless otherwise specified.
3.2 Thread.
3.2.1 The thread for all seaming and stitching shall conform to A-A-50199, Type I and Type II, Tex size 36-45. Overedge stitch shall be Tex size 36-50. V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon.
3.2.2 The thread color must blend into the camouflage pattern of the uniform.
3.3. Buttons. Four hole buttons will be used. The button material shall be high density plastic and light brown in color. See provided color tone.
3.4 Tape, hook and loop. The hook and loop fastener tape will have selvage edges. No slit or split edges are permitted. Sew all hook and loop minimum of 1/8 inch from bound selvage to prevent needle cutting along edges. To prevent raveling, do not sew directly on selvage. However, each required width shall maintain a tolerance of + 1/32 inch as to prevent stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. The use of hook and loop tape that is slit, has split edges or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn a minimum of 1/8 +/- 1/32 inch from bound selvage or from hook and loop tape edge to prevent needed cutting along the edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment. (Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic)
3.5 Draw Strings: Drawstring shall be made of ¼” to 3/8” wide nylon or synthetic fabric. Tensile strength of the drawstring is 200 lbs or greater. The drawstring shall not unravel nor present any sharp edge to the wearer while using the drawstring.
3.6 Slide fasteners (Zipper). The slide fastener shall be a two way separating, non-reversible, automatic locking slider, Size 5 or larger, plastic individual element fastener. The slide fastener tape will be polyester. Zipper (Fastener, Slide Interlocking).
4. BDU SHIRT
4.1 Front Closure. The Shirt shall use five buttons to close. The top most button will be exposed. The remainder four buttons will be behind a hidden pleat extending to the bottom of the shirt.
4.2 Sleeve pocket. The pocket is a bellows type. Each pocket shall have a 4 inch wide loop fastener tape sewn on and positioned 1/8 inch from top and bottom of pocket. The loop shall additionally be stitched through the center only to the pocket.
4.3. Sleeve pocket flap Each pocket flap shall have a 4 inches wide by 2 inches long loop fastener tape centered and sewn onto flap. The pocket flap underside shall have two pieces of hook fastener tape 1 inch wide by 1 ¼ inch long and one piece of loop fastener tape 1 inch wide by 1 inch long.
4.4 Pencil pocket The left sleeve shall have a three channel pencil pocket above the sleeve cuff.
4.5 Sleeve cuff The sleeve cuff shall have loop fastener tape, 1 ½ inched wide sewn onto it. The sleeve cuff adjustment tab (1 ½ inch wide by 3” in length including arrow-head tip) shall have hook fastener tape 1 ½ inches wide by 2 inches long sewn to the underside for closure adjustment.
4.6 Elbow patches Each sleeve shall have an elbow patch sewn on with opening on top for foam inserts. The elbow patch shall have a drain opening on the bottom of approximately 1 inch and 5/8 inch wide hook and loop fastener tape top closure.
4.7 Chest pockets The two chest pockets shall be angled inward toward the facing using 5/8 inch wide fastener tape for closure.
4.8 Center Velcro strip shall be 9 centimeters long and 4.5 centimeters wide. The strip shall be double stitched all around
4.9 Chest pocket flaps The chest pocket flaps shall be angled inward toward the facing using 5/8 inch wide fastener tape for closure.
4.10 Hem seam. The shirt hem shall be ¾ inch wide, double turned and clean finished
4.11 Patterns. Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of ½ inch for all seams. The pattern list in Table IV is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.
4.12.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Figure 10.
Figure 7: ANCOP BDU Shirt Cutters Minimum Pattern Count
| PIECE NAME |
| FABRIC |
| QTY |
| 1 |
| FRONT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 - Mirrored |
| 2 |
| BACK |
| SELF |
| CUT 1 FACE UP |
| 3 |
| TOP_SLEEVE |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 4 |
| UNDER_SLEEVE |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 5 |
| COLLAR |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 6 |
| CUFF_TAB |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 7 |
| LFT_PEN_PKT |
| SELF |
| CUT 1 FACE UP |
| 8 |
| ELBOW_PATCH |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 9 |
| SLEEVE_PKT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 10 |
| SLEEVE_PKT_FLAP |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 11 |
| CHEST_PKT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 12 |
| CHEST_PKT_FLAP |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 13 |
| SIDE_BACK |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
4.11 Finished measurements. The finished shirt measurements shall be in accordance with Figure 8.
Figure 8: ANCOP BDU Shirt Component Specifications
| Small |
| Medium |
| Large |
| X- Large |
| Allowance |
| Garment Components |
| inches |
| inches |
| inches |
| inches |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Neck Circumference |
| 16 |
| 16.5 |
| 17.5 |
| 19.5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Collar Point |
| 3 |
| 3 |
| 3 |
| 3 |
| +/- 1" |
| Collar Spread |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| +/- 1" |
| Front Neck Drop |
| 3.5 |
| 3.5 |
| 3.5 |
| 3.5 |
| +/- 0.25" |
| Back Neck Drop |
| 0 |
| 0 |
| 0 |
| 0 |
| +/- 1/2" |
| Cross Shoulder |
| 18.5 |
| 19.5 |
| 20.5 |
| 22.5 |
| +/- 1" |
| Forward Shoulder |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Cross Front (4" down armhole) |
| 17 |
| 18 |
| 19 |
| 21 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Cross Back (4" down armhole) |
| 18 |
| 19 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Chest 1" Below Armhole |
| 43 |
| 47 |
| 51 |
| 59 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Length from HPS to Hem |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 32 |
| N/A |
| Waist from HPS* |
| 17 |
| 18 |
| 19 |
| 21 |
| +/- 1" |
| Waist |
| 41 |
| 45 |
| 49 |
| 57 |
| +/- 1" |
| Bottom Hem Width |
| 44 |
| 48 |
| 52 |
| 60 |
| +/- 1" |
| Armhole Circumference |
| 23 |
| 24 |
| 25 |
| 27 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Total Sleeve Length |
| 24 |
| 24.5 |
| 25 |
| 26 |
| +/- 1" |
| Sleeve Width at Bicep |
| 18 |
| 19 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Cuff Opening |
| 6.5 |
| 6.75 |
| 7 |
| 7.5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Cuff Width |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Cuff Hook/Loop Width x Length/Height |
| 8 x 1.5 |
| 8 x 1.5 |
| 8 x 1.5 |
| 8 x 1.5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Length of Cuff Closure Flap |
| 3 |
| 3 |
| 3 |
| 3 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Cuff Closure Velcro Width x Height |
| 2 x 1.5 |
| 2 x 1.5 |
| 2 x 1.5 |
| 2 x 1.5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Breast Pocket Height |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Breast Pocket Width |
| 5.75 |
| 5.75 |
| 5.75 |
| 5.75 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Breast Pocket Flap Height |
| 1.5 |
| 1.5 |
| 1.5 |
| 1.5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Name Tag Hook/Loop Width x Height |
| 5 x 1 |
| 5 x 1 |
| 5 x 1 |
| 5 x 1 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Name Tag Distance from HPS* |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| 6 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Center Placket Tail and Button Width x Length |
| 1 x 3.5 |
| 1 x 3.5 |
| 1 x 3.5 |
| 1 x 3.5 |
| +/- 0.25" |
| Bicep Pocket Height |
| 7 |
| 7 |
| 7 |
| 7 |
| +/- 0.25" |
| Bicep Pocket Width |
| 5 |
| 5 |
| 5 |
| 5 |
| +/- 0.25" |
| Bicep Pocket Flap Height |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| +/- 0.25" |
| Pen Pocket Height |
| 5.75 |
| 5.75 |
| 5.75 |
| 5.75 |
| +/- 0.25" |
| Pen Pocket Width |
| 2.5 |
| 2.5 |
| 2.5 |
| 2.5 |
| +/- 0.25" |
| Center Front Placket Width |
| 1.5 |
| 1.5 |
| 1.5 |
| 1.5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Elbow Patch Height |
| 8.25 |
| 8.25 |
| 8.25 |
| 8.25 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Elbow Patch Width at Top side |
| 8.25 |
| 8.25 |
| 8.25 |
| 8.25 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Elbow Patch Width at Bottom Side |
| 6.5 |
| 6.5 |
| 6.5 |
| 6.5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Elbow pad Hook/loop Closure Width x Height |
| 6 x .5 |
| 6 x .5 |
| 6 x .5 |
| 6 x .5 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Length of Back Shoulder Pleat |
| 11 |
| 11 |
| 11 |
| 11 |
| +/- 0.5" |
| Depth of Back Shoulder Pleat |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| 1.5 |
| 1.5 |
Bolded values represent regular sizes but will be modified for fitment according to the BDU fitment chart.
Figure 9: ANCOP BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT FRONT VIEW
Figure 10: ANCOP BATTLE DRESS UNIFORM SHIRT BACK VIEW
| Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001 |
| Attachment 4 |
5 TROUSERS COMPONENTS.
5.1 Fasteners. The four buttons for the fly shall be evenly spaced. The buttonholes shall be horizontal. The drawcord for the internal waistband shall conform to the following requirements: 1000 denier textured nylon cover yarn, basket weave braid construction, 11 picks/inch minimum, 44 carriers, 1 end/carrier, 12/32 +/- 1/32 inch and 430 lbs. tensile strength. The drawstring shall be knotted at both ends. Buttons shall be dull finish, 4 holes, 30 ligne conforming to V-B-871, Type II, Class D, Style 26. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking and show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lbs.
5.2 Fly. The trouser fly shall be a covered fly with a three buttons closure and 1 button and buttonhole closure on the waistband. The buttonhole shall be horizontal. The fly shall have “J” stitching 2 inches from fly edge. The top fly edge shall be edge stitched 1/16 – 1/8 in.
5.3 Fastener tape, hook and loop The use of hook and loop tape that is slit, has split edges or any splicing of fastener tape is not permitted. All widths of hook and loop tape shall be sewn a minimum of 1/8 +/- 1/32 inch from bound selvage or from hook and loop tape edge to prevent needed cutting along the edges, stitching runoffs or improper fit into automatic sewing equipment.
5.4 Waistband The waistband shall have clean finished edges with a button and buttonhole closure. The waistband also has a drawcord, inserted through ½ inch straight cut vertical buttonholes with knotted ends for waist adjustment.
5.5 Belt Loops The trouser shall have seven belt loops measuring 1.25 inch wide. The belt loop placement shall be as follows: one loop on each side seam, one on back seam, one on each front centered between side seam and waistband end and one on each back side centered between side seam and back seam.
5.6 Seat patch. The trouser shall have a double needle seat patch. The seat patch and cut of the pant legs need will allow full squat and 180 degree leg articulation.
5.7 Knee patches The trousers shall have a knee patch hidden pocket on each leg, for foam inserts, with opening on the bottom and hook and loop closures. The hook and loop tape for the closure shall be 5/8 inch wide.
5.8 Crotch. To avoid current tearing problems the crotch shall have a 1/2" overlap with triple stitching. The resulting pull strength needs to be 100 lbs +/- 15 lbs.
5.9 Pockets and Flaps
5.9 1 Front side pockets The trousers shall have two front side hanging pockets.
5.9.2 Hip Pockets The trousers hall have back left and right single welt hip pockets with double button enclosures.The cut out for the pocket shall be edged. Material used for the pocket will be the same as the rest of the garment.The rear Hip pockets will have a flap closure with hidden button holes. This flap will use to buttons to close..
5.9.3 Cargo Pockets and Flaps: The trouser shall have two pleated bellows cargo pockets with flaps. The cargo pockets and flaps shall be closed with two buttons. The cargo pockets shall use a hidden flap/button hole design..
5.9 4 Lower leg pockets and flaps The trousers shall have two lower leg bellows pockets with flaps.
The pockets shall close with hook and loop tape.
5.9.5 Leg bottom and hem The leg bottoms shall be hemmed and shall have a drawstring inserted through two sewn-on eyelets or two ½ inch horizontal straight cut buttonholes. The drawstring shall be knotted at both ends. The finished hem shall measure 1 inch wide.
5.10 Patterns. Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of ½ inch for all seams. The pattern list in Figure 14 is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The patterns shall not be altered in any way, and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.
5.10.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials indicated and in accordance with the pattern parts listed in Figure 14.
Figure 11: ANCOP Trouser Minimum Cutters Pattern
| PIECE NAME |
| FABRIC |
| QTY |
| 1 |
| FRONT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 2 |
| BACK |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 3 |
| LEFT_FLY |
| SELF |
| CUT 1 FACE UP |
| 4 |
| RIGHT_FLY |
| SELF |
| CUT 1 FACE UP |
| 5 |
| SEAT_PATCH |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 6 |
| KNEE_PATCH |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 7 |
| SIDE_PKT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 8 |
| WAISTBAND |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 9 |
| CARGO_PKT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 10 |
| CARGO_PKT_FLAP |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 11 |
| LOW_LEG_PKT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 12 |
| LOW_LEG_PKT_FLAP |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 13 |
| HIP_PKT |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 14 |
| HIP_PKT_FLAP |
| SELF |
| CUT 2 |
| 15 |
| BELT_LOOP |
| SELF |
| CUT 7 |
5.9.2 Finished measurements. The trouser finished measurements shall be in accordance with Figure 15.
Figure 12: ANCOP BDU Trouser Specification
1” allowances are to allow manufactures to center items vertically in the various size/fitments Bolded values represent regular sizes but will be modified for fitment according to the BDU fitment chart.
Figure 13: Trouser ANCOP Combat Uniform
6. VERIFICATION
6.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:
a. First article inspection (see 6.2).
6.2 First article inspection. When a first article is required, it shall be examined for the defects specified in Figure 18.
6.3 Conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with this specification, except where otherwise specified.
6.4 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials in the end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.
6.4.1 Component and material certification. Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance will be acceptable as evidence that the requirements of 3.1 and Figure 6 are met. When certificate of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.
6.5 Basic material testing. The basic material specified in 3.1 through 3.1.5.2 shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Figure 17 in accordance with the test method cited.
Figure 14: End Item Visual Examination Classification
| Examination |
| Defect |
| Major |
| Minor |
Material defects and damages
Any smash, multiple float or loose slub Cut, tear, mend, burn, needle chew, or hole Misweave, area of poor dye penetration, dyestreak, broken or missing yarn, visible mend, thin place or shade bar 1/
| Cleanliness |
| Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on a any |
portion of garment which would be visible when the garment is worn.
Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of garment Thread ends not trimmed throughout garment Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished garment, when applicable
Component and assembly Any defective component 1/ Any component part omitted Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 1/
Slide fastener
Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective Not closing as specified Length not as specified Color not as specified Thong not as specified
Wrist tabs
Missing Improperly located 1/
Labels
Missing, illegible, or incorrect Incorrectly placed or attached
| Accuracy of seaming |
| Seam twisted, pleated, seaming or puckered 1/ |
Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 1/ Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than ½ inch Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than ½ inch Color not as specified Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified Edge of seam tape less than 1/8 inch from seam allowance Seam tape lifting off fabric Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric) in excess of 3/16 inch width or ½ inch in length at any location along a taped seam
Open seams
More than 1/8 inch up to ¼ inch More than ¼ inch
NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam
| Seams and stitching |
| Not specified seam or stitch type |
Missing, broken or skipped stitches 1/
| Stitch tension |
| Loose tension in any area: |
- more than 1-inch but not more than 2-inches
- more than 2-inches Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied to the seam or stitching) Missing, broken, or skipped stitches 1/
Stitches per inch (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of the seam) Less than minimum specified:
- one stitch
- two or more stitches More than maximum specified
| Pockets and flaps |
| Flap attached crookedly, i.e., distance between sides of |
pocket and underside of opened flap varies more than ¼-inch Pocket or flap poorly shaped Flap not covering front or back edge of pocket by 3/16 inch or more Insignia tab set crookedly Pocket divider not properly placed
| Repairs |
| Any heat sealing repairs extending beyond 25 inches in |
length More than five repairs on any one item 1/
| Shaded part |
| Variation in shade within an outside part 1/ |
Any part required to be cut form one piece on material shaded 1/
NOTE: Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3 feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.
Fronts Length of fronts Hem uneven by ¼ inch or more at bottom when fastened Uneven by ¼ inch or more at neck when fastened Flaps uneven by more than ¼ inch when fastened Left flap less than ¼ inch longer at bottom than right flap when fastened
| Label/tag |
| Barcode omitted or not readable by scanner |
Human-readable-interpretation (HRI)) omitted or illegible Not attached to location specified Causes damage to the garment
Fastener tape hook & pile Not properly placed Not specified length image2.png image3.jpeg image4.emf
Microsoft_Office_Excel_97-2003_Worksheet1.xls Sheet1
S M L XL
Allowance Garment Components Small Medium Large X - Large
+/- 1" Outseam (from bottom waistband) 40 41 42 44
+/- 0.5" Waist Relaxed 30-35 36-40 40-44 48
+/- 1" Hip 8" Below Waist 39 42 46 54
+/- 0.5" Front Rise 12 12.5 13 14
+/- 0.5" Back Rise 16.5 17.5 18.5 19.5
+/- 0.5" Thigh Circumference (1" below crotch) 25.5 28.5 28.5 31.5
+/- 0.5" Knee Circumference (12" below crotch) 22 23.5 25 26
+/- 0.5" Bottom Hem Circumference 17 18 19 21
+/- 0.5" Interior Waistband Height 2 2 2 2
+/- 1" Height of Front Fly 8.5 9 10 12
N/A Number of Belt Loops 7 7 7 7
+/- .250" Belt Loop Width 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25
+/- .250" Belt Loop Height 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75
+/- 0.5" Front Side Pocket Opening 9 9 9 9
+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Height - outer side 11 11 11 11
+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Width 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5
+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Flap Height 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25
+/- 0.5" Thigh Pocket Pleat Depth 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75
+/- 1" Distance of Thigh Pocket from Top Waist 11 11 11 11
+/- 1" Distance of Knee Pocket from Top Waist 30 30 30 30
+/- 0.5" Knee Pocket Height 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5
+/- 0.5" Knee Pocket Width 4.25 4.25 4.25 4.25
+/- .250" Knee Pocket Flap Height 2 2 2 2
+/- .250" Back Pocket Flap Height 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25
+/- 0.5" Back Pocket Width 6 6 6 6
+/- 0.5" Knee Patch Height 8.75 9 9.5 10.5
+/- 1" Seat Patch Width (single side) 8 8 9 9.5
+/- 1" Seat Patch Height 17.5 17.5 18 18.5 image5.emf image6.emf image1.emf
File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .