Atch 1 - Field Jackets.docx

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001 Attachment 1

Solicitation Number: W56KJD-12-R-0001 Attachment 1

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, COLD WEATHER, FIELD

4 August 2011

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, COLD WEATHER, FIELD

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for one type of a straight front, cold weather, field coat made of water repellent fabric.

1.2 Classification. The coat will be of the following classes and sizes, as specified:

Schedule of Sizes

XX-Short X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

2. REQUIREMENTS.

2.1 Standard Sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor.

2.2 Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

2.2.1 Basic material.

2.2.1.1 Class 1. The basic material for the Class 1 coat shall be Spec4ce™ Afghan Forest Pattern camouflage printed, conforming to Class 1 of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”. The material for the hanging pockets shall be shall be Afghan Forest Pattern camouflage printed or ground shade conforming to Class 1.

2.2.1.2 Class 2. The basic material for the Class 2 coat and hanging pockets shall be Pantone 431 conforming to Class 2 of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”.

2.2.1.3 Class 3. The basic material for the Class 3 coat shall be Spec4ce™ Sierra Pattern desert camouflage printed, conforming to Class 3 of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”. The material for the hanging pockets shall be Spec4ce™ Sierra Pattern desert camouflage printed conforming to Class 3 ground shade of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”.

2.2.1.4 Class 4. The basic material for the Class 4 coat shall be Six-Color Desert Pattern (Saudi Desert Camouflage), conforming to Class 4 of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”. The material for the hanging pockets shall be Six-Color Desert Pattern (Saudi Desert Camouflage) conforming to Class 4 ground shade of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”.

2.2.1.5 Class 5. The basic material for the Class 5 coat shall be Three Color Desert Pattern, conforming to Class 5 of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”. The material for the hanging pockets shall be Three Color Desert Pattern conforming to Class 5 ground shade of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”.

2.2.1.6 Class 6. The basic material for the Class 6 coat and hanging pockets shall be Pantone 150-2-3C conforming to Class 6 of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”.

2.2.1.7 Class 7. The basic material for the Class 7 coat shall be Ghostex Kilo-1, conforming to Class 7 of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”. The material for the hanging pockets shall be Ghostex Kilo-1 conforming to Class 7 ground shade of “Detail Specification Cloth, Wind Resistant Sateen, Cotton and Nylon”.

2.2.2 Lining and Hood. The material for the hood, lining the coat and interlining the fronts shall be an Oxford Weave cloth (2 warp ends weaving as one) made of Cotton warp yarn that is carded, combed, drawn, spun, and twisted into two-ply yarns and Nylon filling yarn that is semi-dull continuous multi-filament. The cloth shall be treated with Quarpel-type water repellent.

2.2.2.1 Physical Requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements as specified in Table I.

TABLE I: Physical Requirements

4.8 (Max) 5.8

ASTM-D-3776

Filling

ASTM-D-3775

Filling

ASTM D 5034

Seam Efficiency

NOTE:

1/ The needle shall measure 0.049 + 0.001 inch across the blade at the eye. The thread for all classes shall be continuous, multifilament polyester end, with high tenacity staple polyester roving to cover the multifilament end , Tex size 36-45, 2 ply for the needle and Tex size 31-35, 2 ply for the looper.

2/ The dimensional stability shall be performed after 1 cycle. The cloth shall not be pressed after tumble drying prior to measurement.

2.2.2.2 Lining Color. The color for class 1 shall be Pantone Green- 371C, for class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki- 7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C. As an alternate finished seconds and mill seconds finished first may be used for top sleeve and under sleeve lining only. Mill seconds may contain shade variations from the standard sample.

2.2.2.2 Hood Color. The material for the hood for the class 1 shall be Spec4ce™ Afghan Forest Pattern, for class 2 shall be Pantone 431C (Gray), for class 3 shall be Spec4ce™ Sierra Pattern, for class 4 shall be Six Color Desert Pattern (Saudi Desert Camouflage), for class 5 shall be Three Color Desert Pattern, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Ghostex Kilo-1.

2.2.2.3 Colorfastness for Class 1,2,3,4,5,6 and 7. All classes shall show colorfastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), perspiration, and light (after 20 standard fading hours) equal to or better than a rating of “good”. Fastness to crocking shall be not lower than 3.5 as rated by AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Testing as specified in Table II.

TABLE II: Colorfastness Tests

NOTE:

1/ Only the stain on the nylon and cotton fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated and the stain shall be “3-4” or better for all colors.

2.3 Buckram. The material for interlining the collar and reinforcing snap fasteners, buttonholes and eyelets (see Table IV, operation 1.k.) shall be cotton buckram natural color or bleached made from cotton which has been carded, drawn and spun into singles yarn for both the warp and filling. The material shall be a plain weave, with a weight of 5.5-7.5 oz/sq yd, breaking strength of 75lbs in warp direction and 50 lbs in filling direction when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-5034.

2.4 Knitted cloth. The knitted cloth for the hood curtain shall be an interlock knit tubular cloth made from a stretch type nylon yarn. The weight of the cloth shall be 6.5 (min) to 8.0 (max) oz/sq yd, wales per inch 30 (min.) and courses per inch 35 (min), Bursting Strength 165 (min) lbs when tested in accordance with ASTM-D-3787. The colors for the cloth class 1 shall be Pantone Green- 371C, for class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki- 7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.5 Cotton tape. The tape for the collar tab shall be 1-inch wide lightweight general purpose cotton tape, water repellent treated. The tape shall be a plain weave. The color of the tape for class 1 shall be Pantone Green- 371C, for class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki- 7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.6 Fasteners, nylon tape. All fastener tapes for the coat shall be 100% nylon, 8.0 mil woven hook fastener tape with selvage and loop fastener tape with selvedge. The color for class 1 shall be Pantone Green- 371C, for class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki- 7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C. The finished cut lengths for each piece shall be as specified in Table IV, operation 1.g, 1.h. and 1.i.

2.7 Braids, drawcord. The ends of the drawcords referred to in 2.8, 2.9 and 2.10 shall be dipped or impregnated with cellulose acetate or cellulose butyrate to prevent raveling. Each dipped or impregnated end shall be a least 1/2 inch in length.

2.8 Bottom-coat, drawcord. The cord for the drawcord at bottom of coat shall be an elastic cord encased with a braided cotton cover, 3/16 inch in diameter. The color of the cord for class 1 shall be Pantone Green- 371C, for class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki- 7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.9 Waist, drawcord. The cotton braid for the waist drawcord shall be solid and tubular, 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch. The color of the braid for class 1 shall be Pantone Green- 371C, for class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki- 7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.10 Hood, drawcord. The cotton braid for the hood drawcord shall be flat, 3/16 inch width. The color of the braid for class 1 shall be Pantone Green 371C, for class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki- 7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.11 Labels. Each coat shall have combination identification – size label and an instruction label or combination size, identification and instruction label. The label shall be a nonwoven, spunbonded polyester cloth or nonwoven, 80/20 polyester/cellulose cloth, impregnated, acrylic coated, mildew-resistant printed, the labels will be printed with black marking medium. The label printing will be legible and shall not show offsetting, smearing, or bleeding. The item description for class 1 shall be “Coat, Cold Weather, Field, Spec4ce™ ANA”, for class 2 shall be “Coat, Cold Weather, Field, Pantone (431) Gray ANP”, for class 3 shall be “Coat, Cold Weather, Field, Spec4ce™ Sierra Pattern, ANCOP”, for class 4 shall be ”Coat, Cold Weather, Field, Six-Color Desert Pattern, ABP”, for class 5 shall be “Coat, Cold Weather, Field, Three Color Desert Pattern, GDPSU ”, for class 6 “Coat, Cold Weather, Field, Pantone 150-2-3C, ALP”, and for class 7 “Coat, Cold Weather, Field, Ghostex Kilo-1, APU”. The jacket shall have two (one (1) in English and one (1) in Dari) combination identification and care labels attached on the inside back of the jacket. The label color for classes 1 shall be Medium Green, class 2 shall be Gray, class 3,4, and 5 shall be Khaki and class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.11.1 Combination identification – size label. The combination identification – size label shall be for garments. The size information shall be printed in letters and numerals not less than 10-point and shall be as follows:

XX-Large – X-Long Height: 75 to 79 in.

Chest: Above 49 in.

Stock No.

NATO Size: 9000/2434

2.11.1.1 Instruction label. The instruction label shall be printed with minimum 10-point (approximately 1/8 inch) and contain the following information:

COAT, COLD WEATHER, FIELD

Machine washing: Use permanent press cycle. Wash in warm water using mild detergent.

Hand washing: Wash in warm water using mild detergent. DO NOT WRING OR TWIST. Rinse in clean warm water.

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR STARCH.

Drying: Dry at low heat (do not exceed 130oF). After drying, tumble at room temperature for 10 minutes. Remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, remove from water and place on a rustproof hanger.

Pressing is acceptable provided the front flap of the coat overlaps the slide fastener and the temperature of the steam press does not exceed 300oF when using a hand iron. Do not iron over collar slide fastener.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

2.11.1.2 Combination size, identification and instruction label. The identification label, size label and instruction label may be combined into one label. The three labels shall be printed as one continuous label with the size labels first and the identification and instruction labels placed below the size label. The size and identification labels may be combined and the contents placed above the instruction label. A space of 1/2 inch minimum shall be maintained between the labels. In addition a solid line 1/16 inch minimum width shall extend across the entire label approximately in the middle of the 1/2 inch blank space.

2.11.2 Thread and gimp.

2.11.2.1 Thread. The thread shall be a polyester core with either cotton or polyester cover, direction of final twist shall be “Z”. The core thread shall be spun with one or more ends of cotton or high tenacity staple polyester roving to cover the continuous multifilament polyester core thread. Tex size 61-70, 2 or 3 ply with breaking strength (min.) of 5.0 lbs for cotton covered and 6.1 lbs for polyester covered and Tex size 36-45, 2 ply with breaking strength (min.) of 3.2 lbs for cotton covered and 3.7 lbs for polyester covered; shall be used for all seaming, stitching, buttonholes and button sewing and Tex size 31-35, 2 ply with breaking strength (min.) 2.6 lbs for cotton covered and 3.0 lbs for polyester covered shall be used for overedging. The thread shall be water repellent treated.

2.11.2.2 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to 210 Tex soft or 180 Tex with glazed finish, direction of final twist shall be “S”, breaking strength (min.) for soft 6.5 lbs (min.) and for glazed 6.8 lbs (min.).

2.11.2.3 Color of thread and gimp. The thread and gimp for class 1 shall be dyed Pantone Green 371C, class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki-7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.12 Buttons. The buttons shall be 30-line, 4-hole, conforming to sewing-hole buttons, Melamine formaldehyde composition, see figure 2 for style of button. The color of the buttons for class 1 shall be dyed Pantone Green- 371C,class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki-7504C, for class shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C. The finish shall be dull.

2.13 Fasteners, slide, interlocking. The slide fasteners shall be fabricated in conformance to below standards.

2.13.1 Coat fronts. The slide fasteners for the coat fronts shall be either brass or plastic. The length of the slide fastener shall be 18-1/2 + 1/4, -3/8 inches. The tape extension at top of slide fastener shall be not less than 1 inch.

2.13.1.1 Brass slide fastener. The brass slide fastener shall conform to separating, reversible, style 8, size MHS; slider with wire stirrup pull.

2.13.1.2. Plastic slide fastener. The plastic slide fastener shall be an individual molded plastic element size H, possessing a 160 pound minimum crosswise breaking strength with a slider having an opening large enough to accommodate the 3/8 inch thong. The color of the chain, slider, pull and thong shall approximately match the tape (see 2.13.1.4).

2.13.1.3 Collar. The slide fastener for the collar shall be brass, non-seperating, non-reversible fastener, style 6, size MS slider with short tab pull, except that the tape shall be 9/16 + 1/32 inch wide and the slider pull tab shall have a thong approximately 1-1/2 inches in length. The length of the slide fastener shall be 16-1/2 + 3/16, -1/4 inches. As an alternate, an equivalent polyester (plastic) coil or ladder type continuous element monofilament slide fastener with an automatic slider may be used. The color of the chain, slider, pull and thong shall approximately match the tape (see 2.13.1.4).

2.13.1.4 Slide fastener tape. The color of the buttons for class 1 shall be dyed Pantone Green- 371C,class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C, for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki-7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C .

2.13.2 Fasteners, snap. The snap fasteners shall conform to style 2A, brass, finish 2, male and female complete, consisting of stud and eyelet size 1 or 2 with button size 1 or 2 and socket, except an uncapped button may be used to attach the socket. The color of the snap fastener for class 1 shall be dyed Pantone Green- 371C,class 2 shall be Pantone Gray- 431C for class 3 shall be Pantone Tan- 480C, for class 4 shall be Pantone Tan- 4745C, for class 5 shall be Pantone Khaki-7504C, for class 6 shall be Pantone 150-2-3C, and for class 7 shall be Pantone 7497C.

2.14 Design. The coat is a lined hip length design, having a bi-swing back; convertible stand-up collar with adjustable tab closure, four buttonholes and horizontal slide fastener closure on undercollar (exit for hood); attached hood (concealed between body layers) with drawcord adjustment; two piece set-in sleeves, adjustable tab cuff closure; slide fastener fly front closure with snap fasteners; two bellows type breast pockets and two lower inside hanging pockets with snap fastener flaps closures; waist and hem drawcords; and inside buttons for attaching the insulating liner. There are also pieces of fastener tape on the collar tab, undercollar, sleeve tabs and outside of underarm (see operation l.g.).

2.15 Figures. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall control.

2.16 Patterns. Patterns which provide an allowance of 3/8 inch for all seams, except double-lapped and double-stitched seams where 1/2 inch allowance is provided and for joining sleeve facing to bottom of sleeve where 1/4 inch allowance is provided, will be furnished in a size Reg/Med by the Government to the contractor for grading and cutting the working patterns. The working patterns shall be duplicates of the measurements provided by this specification.

2.17 List of pattern parts. The components of the coat shall be cut from materials specified in accordance with the number of parts indicated in Table III.

TABLE III. List of pattern parts

PIECE NAME NOMENCLATURE CUT PARTS

BASIC MATERIAL (see 2.2.1)

CLOTH, COTTON BUCKRAM

(see 2.3)

COLLAR INTERLINING COLLAR_INT 2/ CUT 1

CLOTH, COTTON/NYLON

OXFORD (see 2.2.2)

PIECE NAME NOMENCLATURE CUT PARTS

CLOTH, COTTON/NYLON

OXFORD (see 2.2.2)

HOOD HOOD CUT 2

CLOTH, NYLON, KNITTED

(see 2.4)

HOOD CURTAIN HOOD_CURTAIN CUT 1

1/ May be cut from cotton oxford lining or cotton/nylon oxford cloth.

2/ May be cut from cotton/nylon oxford cloth.

3/ May be cut from basic material cloth.

2.18 Construction.

2.18.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitching and seams shall conform to ASTM D-6193. The type of seam, stitching, and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table IV. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, pleats, or open seams occur. Where two or more methods for seams or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread), shall be on the inside of the coat. Unless otherwise indicated, the gage of stitching for the double-lapped, double-stitched seams shall be 3/16 to 5/16 inch. The width of overedging specified in Table IV shall be 3/16 to 1/4 inch. The guide and knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

2.18.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

2.18.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective areas, continue over the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

2.18.1.2 Types 401, 502, 503, 515, 516, and 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn.

2.18.1.2.1 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

2.18.2 Bartacking. Unless otherwise specified, bartacks shall be as follows:

Tolerance Stitches per Length Width Length Width bartack 1/2 inch 1/8 inch + 1/16 inch + 1/32 inch 28 1 inch 1/8 inch + 1/16 inch + 1/32 inch 42

Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose or tight stitching.

2.18.3 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be the eyelet-end taper bar type, worked over gimp (see 2.11.2.2) with not less than four stitches at bar end (not counting the crossover stitch). The buttonholes shall finish with the purling on the outside of the coat. The finished cut lengths shall be 3/4 to 7/8 inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric. Additive treatments or materials used to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric prior to stitching the buttonholes are prohibited.

2.19 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with operations specified in Table IV. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations. Any additional basting or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture is permissible, provided the thread is removed or does not show in the finished coat.

2.19.1 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table IV, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

TABLE IV. Manufacturing Operations Requirements

a. Cut all parts of the coat (cotton/nylon sateen, cotton-nylon oxford, cotton buckram and the knitted cloth) in strict accordance with patterns showing directional lines, placement for components, and notches for proper assembly of parts. Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction. The hood, waist tunnel strip, and pocket flap lining may be cut in the warp or filling direction. The pocket openings may be pre-cut (see operation 11.b.).

b. Cut basic material parts of coat from one piece of material except lower pocket bearers and welts, flap linings, undercollar, waist tunnel strip, neck reinforcement, button and buttonhole reinforcement pieces, hood eyelet reinforcement pieces, hood tunnel piece, lower inside hanging pockets, and front interlining, which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the coat, except that the waist tunnel strip, front interlining (cotton oxford or fusible cloth), and reinforcement pieces need not approximate nor match the shade of the coat.

c. Sleeve linings (cotton/nylon oxford) may be cut from ends but shall approximately match each other.

d. Cut hood tunnel piece from cotton-nylon oxford on the bias, 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches wide and of sufficient length to encompass the face opening. The tunnel piece may be strip cut and placed on rolls.

e. Cut drawcords in lengths as follows (measurements in inches):

Waist drawcord (one each)

Bottom drawcord (one each)

Hood drawcord (one each)

f. Impregnate or dip ends of drawcords (see 3.3.8).

g. Cut 1 inch wide nylon fastener tape in accordance with the following:

Collar tab

Loop 2-1/4 + 1/8 1 6

Undercollar

Hook 1 to 1-1/8 1 9i.

2 to 2-1/4 1 9i.

Sleeve tab

Hook 1 to 1-1/8 2 23.h.

Outside of underarm

Loop 3 to 3-1/4 2 23.i.

h. Cut 4 inch wide nylon fastener tape in accordance with the following:

Upper sleeve

Loop 7 + 1/8 2 24

j. Cut the tape (see 2.5) for collar tab 2-3/4 + 1/8 inches long (see operation 6).

k. Cut the reinforcement pieces for buttonholes and eyelets (where specified) from one ply of basic material or buckram, or two plies of the cotton oxford cloth.

l. Cut cotton-nylon sateen cloth (basic material) for class 1 coat with dull side (filling effect) of the fabric to finish on the outside of the garment.

a. Mark, ticket or bundle all outside parts of the coat and hood to insure a uniform shade or shades and size, except those cut from ends (see operation 1.b). Mark, ticket or bundle all lining parts for uniformity of size.

b. Any method of marking may be used except:

(1) Metal fastening devices.

(2) Sew on tickets.

(3) Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

During the spreading, cutting and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in 3.6 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

Stitch labels on all four sides to the lining of coat as follows:

a. Instruction label to the right front and toward the bottom, 3 to 4 inches back of the facing.

b. Combination identification-size label to the back of lining (off-center), 1-1/2 to 2 inches down from the collar seam. Stitching shall not catch or restrict the back pleat.

c. Combination size, identification and instruction label (when used) to be positioned as specified in operation 4.b.

d. The ends of label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches.

Finished appearance. Sockets shall be reinforced with one ply of buckram or basic material or two plies of the cotton oxford cloth cut not less than 1 inch by 1 inch.

a. Mark the position for socket of snap fastener on flap lining, as indicated by pattern, and clinch socket to lining of flap and reinforcement piece. A 1/4 inch off center tolerance is permitted.

and

Finished appearance. The hood shall have four pleats on back neck and two darts at top. The eyelets for drawcord shall be securely clinched through the reinforcement piece and hood. The drawcord shall not be caught in the stitching of the tunnel.

d. Clinch eyelets through hood and double reinforcement piece of basic material at front opening positioned as indicated by marks on pattern.

or

21 per eyelet

g. Hood tunnel shall finish on inside of hood and shall finish 1 + 1/8 inches wide. Either of the two methods may be followed:

or

k. Thread drawcord through eyelets and knot ends of drawcord. Drawcord may be inserted after operation 7.i. is performed.

l. Turn in both raw edges of tunnel piece and raw edge of hood and double-stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned edges forming drawcord tunnel.

28 per bartack

p. Thread drawcord through eyelets and knot ends of drawcord.

1/ or 40 Number size polyester machine sewing thread, bonded air entangled, normal elongation, non-wicking.

1/ or 40 Number size polyester machine sewing thread, bonded air entangled, normal elongation, non-wicking.

Finished appearance. The undercollar shall be interlined with buckram or alternate fusible and shall contain a slide fastener which shall finish flat and smooth without puckers. Slide of fastener shall finish on left side of collar (as worn) when fastener is closed.

a. Mark undercollar for slide fastener at marks indicated on patterns.

or

c. When using the alternate fusible material for collar interlining, center the interlining under undercollar and fuse together for the entire length of the undercollar.

d. Cut slide fastener opening as an alternate, when fusible collar interlining is used the off center tolerance shall be + 1/8 inch, tongue notching each end of opening.

28 per bartack

Bartack

42 per bartack

44-46 per buttonhole including tack

Finished appearance. The lower pockets shall be uniform in size, placement and appearance; the width of openings and depth of pockets shall be uniform. The flaps shall be uniformly set and stitched. The top of pockets shall extend to the waist tunnel and be caught in the bottom row of the waist tunnel stitching (see operation 16). The pockets shall not extend below bottom of coat.

b. When pocket opening is pre-cut.

c. When pocket opening is not pre-cut.

516 or

1/ or 40 Number size polyester machine sewing thread, bonded air entangled, normal elongation, non-wicking.

28 per bartack

g. Attach the stud part of snap fastener through front of coat and outer ply of pocket, to correspond with socket part on pocket flap.

Finished appearance. The outside bellows patch pockets shall be uniform in appearance, without twists, puckers, pleats, or raw edges.

NOTE: The breast pocket shall be set on with fullness at the top of the pocket. The width of the top of the pocket shall be governed by the size of the finished flap.

28 per bartack

28 per bartack

g. Attach stud part of snap fastener through pocket and hem to correspond with socket in flap.

Finished appearance. The flaps shall be so positioned to cover ends of pocket and finish smooth and flat.

or

28 per bartack

or

c. Knot ends of drawcord.

1/ or 40 Number size polyester machine sewing thread, bonded air entangled, normal elongation, non-wicking.

b. Attach six (6) snap fastener sockets through left facing and interlining positioned as indicated on pattern.

or

or

Finished appearance. The cord exits shall be metal eyelets or made with buttonholes or sewn eyelets, with the purling on the side of the lining nearest the wearer and completely reinforced on the inside (see operation 1.k.).

including tack or

21 per eyelet

or

c. Clinch eyelets through fronts and reinforcement pieces.

Or

Or