FNS-PD 96-14 Shirt Maternity (Long Short Sleeve) (1997FEB28).pdf

I' / ; . * / . < FYSQD 96-14 SHLRTS, ivOh*BN'S, bL+TERliT'TY, LUSC; .AND SHORT SLEEVE ',,dm , .-

Pg 2, para 3.3.1 2" line delete "2122'' and Add "hf-In

Under Table I Requirement c o ! m change as follows:

Weight 8.1 to 8,9 Yarn ply 2-ply Yarns per inch Warp 35

Filling 47 paa7005 Highlight

FNSDD 96- 14

February 28, 1997

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRTS, WOMEN'S: MATERNITY, LONG AND SHORT SLEEWS

This purchase description is approved for use by dl Departmenh and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. Scor~c. This purchase description covers the requirements for women's long and short sleeve maternity s h i m made of a polyester and wool blend fabric. These shirts are intended for wear by female miritary personnel.

2. Cbssification. The shirts shall be furnished in the following types and sizes:

Type 1 Short sleeve T r ~ e n Long sleeve

Extra SmaU 2 S d I 4-6 Medium 8-1 0 Large 12-14 Extra Large 16- 18

3. SALIENT C-CRCRISTICS

3.1 Descrivtion. The shirts shd have a 7-button front closure with an elastic loophutton neck dosure and back yoke with box pleat. The short sleeved shirt shall have ornamental cuffs and

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc.) and any data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FNSC, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19 145-5099.

AMSC NIA FSC 8410

O A . Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

3.2 Stitching. All lockstitching shd have 10 - 14 stitches per inch; overedge stitching shall have 8 - 10 stitches per inch. The identiiicationlinstruction label shall be attached to the lower right facing (as worn), with the bottom oflabel 3 to 3-1/2 inches from the hished bottom of shirt. The IabeI shall be stitched on all four sides, and the stitching shall not show on the front orthe shirt.

The size label shall be caught in the stitching ofthe center back neckline. The bottom shirt hem shall be overedge stitched and b h d stitched, with a 1-1/2 e118) inch hem. The side seam, underarm seam and sleeve set seam shall be lockstitched and seam allowances overedge stitched together. The type I sleeve underarm seam allowance shall be tacked to the inside back of the sleeve near bottom ofcuE. The type II sleeve binding shall f i s h 318 to 1/2 inch wide. The binding shall be mitered with a lockstitch at the inside fold. The front facings shall be overedge stitched on the inside edge and stitched and turned at the bottom, covering and finishing even with the hem bottom. The back yoke shall be sandwich seamed with the shirt back and fronts. The edge of the collar, type II sleeve cuffs, and ornamental type 1 sleeve cuffs shall be topstitched 114 inch gage. The elastic loop for top fiont button shall be securely caught in the front facing seam, and shall be of SUE-dent size to retain the specified button. The right fiont shall have 6 vertical, straight type buttonholes, tacked at each end, with the purling on the outside. The buttonholes shall accommodate a 19 lime sewing button.

I I 3.3 Material, 3 -3.1 Basic material. The b k c material for the shirts shall be tropical poIyesterlwool, Khaki shade 2122. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table T below.

I I TABLE I - PHYSICAL RXQUIREMENTS

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Weight (oz./linear yd.) 6.9 to 7.4 ASTM-D3776 Opt. C

11 2/ - Certificate of

75 +2 percent Compliance

Certificate of Compliance

Plain Certificate of Compliance

Yarns per inch (min.)

Breaking strength (min.)

Shrinkage (max. )

Warp - 65 Filling - 59

Warp - 100 Ibs.

Filling - 80 Ibs.

Warp - 2.5 percent Filling - 2.5 percent

ASTM-D3775 21

ASTM-D5034

AATCC 99

FNSPD 96- 14

TABLE I - PEWSICAL REQUIREMENTS, CONT'D.

1 / Weight based on 60 inch width inside selvage. - 21 Samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM-D 1776. - 31 When a coIor change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale is evident in either sample being -evaluated or the standard sample, exposure shall be continued for an additional number of hours equal to the number of hours at which the color change was apparent. Specimens which do not show a color change until 80 AFU's shall be returned to the machine for a total exposure period not to exceed 140 hours.

4!' The laundering cycIe shaII be 30 m i nutes and *the temperature of the container and i t 's contents shall be maintained at 100 +4 F (384- 2 C). Only the stain on the wool fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

Characteristic Pilling pH ' Colorfastness to:

W etldry cleaning Crocking:

Wet Dry

Perspiration (acid test

O ~ Y ) Light (40 SFH) Laundering (3 cycles)

3 3.2 Fusible interlining. The material used for interlining the front, collar, and collar stand of t1 pe I and type 11 shirts, and the cuffs of type I1 shirts shall be a nonwoven fusible interlining cluth. The fusible shall have a thermal bonded non-~voveli substrate fabricated from fibers of 8 5 t o 100 percent polyester, and the remaining percentage, i f any, nylon. The polyester adhesive 5:lell be evenly applied in a suitable weight. The filsible shall weigh 1.4 - 1.5 oz./sq. yd. The minimum breaking strength shall be 2 Ibs. machine direction and 1 lb. cross machine direction i: hen tested as specified in ASTM D5034. The initial bond strength, after fusing to the shell Fhric, shall be a minimum of 32 ounces per inch in the machine direction and a rninimum of 24 o.:nces per inch after 3 launderings or dry cleanings. The bond strength shall be considered :i:ceptabIe if it either begins to debond from the outer shell material (end item fabric) at a value eL,uivalent to the minimum bond strength or higher, and then splits from itself, or debonds at a nl':lirnum of 20 ounces per inch (initiaI state) or 17 ounces per inch after the laundered or dry c:caned state. The color of the fusible shall be white or natural The hsib1e cloth shall not shrink p i elongate in excess of 3 0 percent in either the warp or filling direction after one laundering, or- 2 .# percent after one drycleaning. A certificate of co1:lplirl ticz sllall be subn~itted for all r, .:uirements and the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the I . ' idity of the certification.

Requirement No more than standard sample.

5.5 - 8.5

4.0 good

3.0 min.

3.0 min.

4.0 good

4.0 good

4.0 good

Test Method

AS TM-D3 5 1 1

FED-STD-191 #2811

U T C C 132

AATCC 8

AATCC 8

AATCC 15

AATCC 16 Opt A 3/

AATCC 61-2A 4/

3 3 -3 Thread. The thread shall be cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core thread, 3 1 - 3 5 Teu, 2 ply, with a minimum breaking strength of 2 6 lbs. and 26 percent maximum elongation N hen tested according ASTM D2256. The direction of plied twist shall be "2". The dyed thread shaU be compared to the standard sample under artificial daylight at 7000 +500K and iridescent lamplight at 2850 5 1 00K. The thread shall contain only the minimum amount of lubricant to faciIitate sewing. The yarn finish shall be non-staining and non-flame propagating. As an alternate, cottrm soft finish thread may be used for buttmholex The thread shag b q m n from c ~ m b e d cotton and shall be 8,267 to 9,920 yards per pound, 3 ply, with a minimum breaking strength of 2.2 Ibs. with 5 determinations per sample unit when tested according to ASTM D2256. The threads shall be dyed Khaki shade P- 1, cable No. 66019, and shall show "good" cc3Iorfastness to laundering (3 cycles; dried after each cycIe), light, perspiration and wet/dry cl caning when tested according to AATCC 6 1 - 3 4 AATCC 16 (option A); AATCC 15; and AXTCC 132, respectively. The color of the dyed cotton thread shall match the standard sample 11 hen viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 7500 i200K with illumination of 100 i20 foot candles, and shall bc: 3 good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 +200K.

Ctitificates of compliance shall be submitted for aH requirements and the Government reserves t he right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

3 3 4 Buttons. The buttons shall be pearlescent polyester composition of a suitable quality. The buttons shall be 19 ligne 1/, style 25 2/, with a diameter of 0.475 inch, and overall thickness of 0 100 inch (min.) 31. The color ofthe buttons shall be Tan shade AJ, cable No. 62026. The finish of the buttons shall be glossy. The compressive strength of the buttons shall be a minimum of 500 Ibs Compressive strength testing of the buttons shall be condiicied using apparatus which pdrmits gradual application of the load either by a manual or automatic mechanism. The in~rrument's gage shall be capable of showing the total compression load carried by the button, however, the gage shall be so calibrated that the load deflection at the point of failure is at least one-third of the total capacity of the gage. Buttons shall be placed face down one at a time between flat blocks of steel and tested to failure. Failure is def ned as the first sign of a crack in the button visible to the naked eye (a visible crack in rhe button will usually be found at the first audible sound of cracking). The load in pounds which produces this failure shall be recorded as the compressive strength of the button. Extreme care shall be taken to apply the pressure cz;~;rally and evenly over the entire surface of the button n hich is in contact with the steel bIocks.

The results for all the buttons in the sample shall be averaged and reported to the nearest pound.

Failure of the average to conform to the specified requirernerlt shall be considered a test failure.

1,' Tolerance shall be +one ligne. -

2:: Style 25 button:

jl rhickness measurements shall be reported to the ncnrest full ligne Actual thickness shall be -n--:.:sured and recorded, but the value obtained shall hc carried l o the nearest full ligne far re;.>,~rting purposes. For example, a measurement of 7 -19 s11,:11 be reported as 3 Iigne, whereas a 11: :<.sure~nent of 3.50 shall be reported as 4 ligne

3 -3.5 Elastic. The elastic for the collar closure shall be polyester fiber, flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inches wide in a color to approximate the basic fabric shade or white.

3.4 Labels

3.3.1 Identificatiod~nstruction label. Each shirt shall have a white, commercial type, combination id entificationhsbuction Idtrel. The labd inscription shall have a minimum font sizmf 1 0 points, and shall show "good" colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in U T C C 6 1 -3A.

The identificationlinstnrction Iabel shall include the following information:

Nomenclature: Shirt, Women's, Maternity Contract No.: SPO 100-00-0-000 (Example) Name of Contractor:

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS

Launder in warm water using mild soap or detergent.

Scrub soiled areas. DO NOT BLEACH. Rinse thoroughly in clear, warm water. Do not squeeze or wring out. Place dripping shirt on hanger.

Press when dry or nearly dry on wrong side with steam iron on a low heat.

The shirts may be dry cleaned.

3 .4 .2 Size label. Each shirt shall have a white, commercial type, size label. The Iabel inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points, and shalI show "good" colorfastness to laundering ullen tested as specified in AATCC 61-3A. The size label shall include the following information:

Size: Medium (example) Stock No.: 84 10-00-000-0000 (example)

3 . 4 . 3 LabeYtap. Each shirt shall be individually barcoded. The barcode label shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The barcoding element shall be a 13 digit national stock n~1:nber (NSN). The barcode type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so thn; it is completely visible on the item when it is folded andlor packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item.

3 5 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set uf graded patterns. The pattern cr~.lerally provides for a seam allowance of 318 inch, with the exception of making the collar, L, V, t - ich provides for a 114 inch seam allowance. The government patterns may be used to create r l , t . contractor's working patterns, however the design and measurements of the patterns shall not b c .iltered in any way, with the exception of minor modifications to accon~~nodate automation.

3 .5 .1 Pattern parts: The component parts of the shirt shall be cut from the material specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table 11:

TABLE I1 - LIST OF PATTERN PARTS

KOTE: Sleeve Bindings for type I1 sleeves shall be cut from basic material with the lengthwise on the warp, so that they may finish as specified in 3 -2.

Material Basic material

3 t j Finished measurements. The finished shirts shaii conform to the measurements in Table 111.

Shirts shall be measured buttoned and lying smooth and flat.

Sleeve-type II Sleeve Cuffs (type 11) Collar Collarstand

Interlining Front Collar Collarstand Sleeve Cuffs (type 11)

Marker Front Buttonhole

Nomenclature of pattern parts Fiwrrt Back yoke Back Sleeve-type I

1 :! Bust measurement taken across front of shirt from folded edge to folded edge at pit of armhole - 2: Back length measurement taken from lower edge of collarstand to bottom edge of shirt. - 3! Collar length measurement taken along inside from collar end to collar end at the gorge line. - 4,' Sleeve length measurement taken along underarm seam, from base of armhole seam to bottoni ydge of cuff.

Cut parts

Size

E ~ t r a Small Small Medium Large Extra Large Tolerance

Half-bust I / - 2 1

+3/8

Back length

- 2/

25-112 26- 112 27-112 28-1/2 29- 112 +1/2

Sleeve length Type I1 41

17-1/2

I 8 18-112

+I12

Collar length

- 31

13-114 13-314 14-1/4 14-3i4 15-114

+1/4 -l /8

Sleeve length Type 1 41

5-112 5-112 5-112 5-112 5-112 + 114

4. Reeulat o r = Rea uirernents. The offererlcontractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5 . QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

5 1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the saiierrt -characteristics of this purchase description, conform to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards, and qudity assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market.

The Govemment reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5 3 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivaIent, must have been sold t o the commercial market or to the Government.

5 . 3 Visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects listed below.

EXAMINATION DEFECT

hlateriaf and Component part omitted, not cut as specified, distorted, full, tight, or twisted;

wc~rkmanship any part of shirt caught in any unrelated row of stitching

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as

! specified, misweave, knot or slub

Any finished measurement not as specified

Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irreguIar or open, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needIe chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to

1 cloth, seam allowance not as specified, raw edge

I Length of fronts at closure uneven at bottom edge by 112 inch or more, uneven at neck edge by 1/4 inch or more

The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of 1/8 inch or more

Permanent fold, pleat, or crease

Buttonholes omitted, misplaced, added. 1101 specified type, not cut cleanly, I broken stitches, does not acconunodat s specified size button

I - Buttons missing, broken, misplaced, i~lsccurely sewn, not specified type or size

I workmanship I causing collar to turn out, edge of undercollar exposed beyond ledge of top 1

Shade

Fusible interlining: bubbling, delamination, bleed through, Shade variation within a part or between parts

Labds market beginning with the date of delivery of the individual item.

misplaced

Cleanness

Packaging

5.5 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or urchase order. 1

Thread, buttons, hsible or elastic color not as specified I

Spot, stain, thread ends not trimmed or removed

Rancid odor Omitted, incorrect, itlegibre, misplacd, not attached as specified,

6. -. The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the cohtract or purchase order.

or stitched through printing; bar-codes not scannable or readabIe by scanner;

readable interpretation (MU) omitted or illegible; bar code not fblded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item Any item not p a c k a ~ d in accordance with the contract or purcl.

7. NOTES

human- 1risibIe on ase order

7.1 Sources of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19 1 1 1-5094

7.2 Source of non-government documents.

AATCC Test Methods - Applications for copies should be addressed to:

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists P.O. Box 122 15 Triangle Park, NC 27709-22 I5

ASTM Test Methods Application for copies should be addressed to:

American Society for Testing and Materials 100 Barr Harbor Drive West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959 hlCLlTARY INTERESTS:

Custodian:

Navy - MC

CiviI Agency Coordinating Activity:

GSA - FSS

Preparing Activity:

DLA - CT

TYPE I1

FIGURE 1 SHIRT, WOMEN'S MATERNITY

FIGURE 2 SHIRT, WOMEN'S MATERNITY

TYPE I1

FIGURE 3 SHIRT, WOMEN'S MATERNITY