A-A-59531.pdf

[INCH-POUND]

A-A-59531 21 December 1999

SUPERSEDING

MIL-S-29377A

27 May 1988

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

SLACKS, MATERNITY

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description for all Federal agencies.

1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for maternity slacks made of a polyester and wool blend fabric. These slacks are intended for wear by female, military personnel.

These slacks are a modified commercial item since they require a specific military appearance (See paragraph 3.3.1).

2. CLASSIFICATION. The slacks shall be of one type in the following sizes:

Schedule of sizes

Extra Small 2 Large 12-14 Small 4-6 Extra Large 16-18 Medium 8-10

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

3.1 Description. The slacks shall have two back waist darts, a full elastic waistband, an upper front stretch panel, straight legs and unhemmed, overedge stitched bottoms (Figure 1).

3.2 Stitching. All lockstitching shall have 10-14 stitches per inch; overedge stitching shall have 8-10 stitches per inch. The top edge of the identification/instruction/size label shall be caught in the waistband tunnel stitching and the identification label shall be centered at the back of the slacks. All raw edges shall be finished with an overedge stitch. The waistband tunnel stitching and all seam joining shall be accomplished with a lockstitch. Outseams and inseams shall be pressed open and flat; the seam joining upper and lower front pieces shall be topstitched 1/4 + 1/8 inch below seam, through all seam allowances.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-CRD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2025-05-01T20:00Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material1/ for the slacks shall be a serge, woven with a singles yarn blended of a maximum of 83 percent polyester and minimum of 17 percent wool fiber (62’s U.S.

standard or finer), and woven with a 100 percent continuous filament texturized polyester yarn into an end and end, and pick and pick arrangement in both the warp and filling. The weave shall be a 2 up 2 down, right hand twill. The cloth shall be scoured, brushed, sheared, pressed and decated. The cloth shall weigh 10.5-11.0 ounces per linear yard based on a 56 inch width cloth when tested according to ASTM D 3776 Option C after conditioning as directed in ASTM D 1776 with a minimum of 65 ends and 55 picks per inch. The minimum breaking strength shall be 160 pounds warp and 140 pounds filling when tested according to ASTM D 5034 Option G-T or G-E. The cloth shall have a maximum dimensional change of 2.5 percent in both warp and filling direction when tested according to AATCC 135 and a minimum tearing strength of 6.0 pounds in both the warp and filling direction when tested according to ASTM D 1424. The pH shall be 5.5-8.5 when tested according to ASTM D 2165. The color of the cloth shall be Green 2243 (as defined in the contract or order) and shall match the standard sample under artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500 Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800 Kelvin. The cloth shall show “good (4)” colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning, perspiration, light, and laundering (after 3 cycles) when tested according to AATCC 132, AATCC 15, AATCC 16 Option A, and AATCC 61-3A respectively. The cloth shall show “fair (3)” colorfastness to crocking when tested according to AATCC 8 using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. The cloth shall rate “good” for pilling resistance when tested according to ASTM D 3511. Certificates of compliance shall be submitted for all requirements and the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

1/ The material used is specifically for the required military appearance of the slack.

3.3.2 Knitted cloth. The cloth for the front stretch panel shall be an interlock knit, tubular, stretch type nylon cloth, Green shade 2245. The cloth shall weigh 6.5 to 8.0 oz/sq. yd. when tested according to test method ASTM D 3776 Option C and have a minimum of 30 wales per inch and 35 courses per inch when tested according to test method ASTM D 3887. Samples shall be conditioned as directed in

ASTM D 1776.

3.3.3 Thread. A cotton soft finish thread shall be used for seaming. The thread shall be spun from combed cotton and shall be 11,023 to 12,400 yards per pound, 40 Tex, 3 ply, with a minimum breaking strength of 1.8 lbs. with 5 determinations per sample unit when tested according to ASTM D 2256 1/. The thread for overedge stitching shall be cotton, 14,173 to 16,535 yards per pound, 30 Tex, 3 ply, with a minimum breaking strength of 1.5 lbs. with 5 determinations per sample unit when tested according to ASTM D 2256 1/. The thread shall be dyed to match basic material and shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering (3 cycles; dried after each cycle), light, perspiration ad wet/dry cleaning when tested according to AATCC 61-3A; AATCC 16 Option A 2/; AATCC 15; and AATCC 132, respectively. Certificates of compliance shall be submitted for all requirements and the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

FOOTNOTES:

1/ Speed shall be 12+ 0.5 in./min. and a 10 inch gauge length shall be used.

2/ When a color change equal to Step 4 on the AATCC Gray Scale is evident in either sample being evaluated or the standard sample, exposure shall be continued for an additional number of hours equal to the number of hours at which the color change was apparent. Specimens that do not show a color change until 80 AFU’s shall be returned to the machine for a total exposure period not to exceed 140 hours.

3.3.4 Elastic waistband stabilizer. The elastic for the waistband shall be made with monofilament nylon filling and textured nylon warp. The width shall be 1 inch and the elongation shall be 100 + 10 percent (18 inch sample with 5 inch bench marks and extended to its ultimate elongation). The core elastomer shall be cotton covered spandex and the finished “elastic” shall be both launderable and dry-cleanable.

3.4 Labels

3.4.1 Identification/instruction/size label. Each slack shall have a white, commercial type, combination identification/instruction/size label. The label’s inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points, and shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC 61-3A.

The label shall include the following information:

Nomenclature: Slacks, Maternity Fiber Content: 83% Polyester/17% Wool (Example) Size: Medium (Example) Stock No.: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) Contract No.: SPO100-00-0-000 (Example) Name of Contractor:

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS

Machine wash, warm. Line or tumble dry.

Wash darks separately. DO NOT BLEACH.

If touch up is desired, use cool iron. May be dry cleaned.

3.4.2 Label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items.

The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item.

3.5 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of graded patterns. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/2 inch, with 3 inches provided for hemming the leg bottoms. The Government patterns may be used to create the contractor’s working patterns, however the design and measurements of the patterns shall not be altered in any way, with the exception of minor modifications to accommodate automation.

3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the slack shall be cut from the material specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table I.

TABLE I – List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts Basic material Lower front

Back

Knitted cloth Upper front panel 1

3.6 Finished measurements. The slack shall conform to the measurements in Table II. Slacks shall be measured lying smooth and flat.

Table II – Finished measurements, in inches.

Size Waist Relaxed (A)

Waist Stretched (B)

Hips (C) Inseam (D) Outseam (E)

Extra Small 26 34 40 33 43-1/2 Small 27 36 42 33-1/2 44-1/2 Medium 28 39 45 34-1/4 45-1/2 Large 29 42-1/2 48-1/2 35-1/2 46-3/4 Extra Large 30 46 51 35-3/4 47 Tolerance + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2

(A-B) Waist – Twice the measurement taken in center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

(C) Hips – Twice the measurement taken on the slack 8 inches down from top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

(D) Inseam - Measurement taken along inseam from crotch seam to unfinished bottom of leg.

(E) Outseam – Measurement taken along outseam from top of waistband to unfinished bottom of leg.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS

4.1 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

5.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, and shall conform to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Visual examination. Each slack shall be examined for the defects listed below.

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Material and Workmanship

Component part omitted, not cut as specified, distorted, full, tight, or twisted;

any part of slack caught in any unrelated row of stitching

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub

Any finished measurement not as specified

Permanent fold, pleat, or crease

Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular or open, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, raw edge, not pressed as specified

Waistband: twisted, not uniform in width by more than 1/8 inch, elastic caught in waistband stitching, elastic twisted or rolling

Darts twisted or puckered, drill holes exposed, darts uneven in length by 1/2 inch or more

Shade Shade variation within a part or between parts

Thread color not as specified Cleanness Spot, stain, thread ends not trimmed or removed

Rancid odor Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, not attached as specified, or stitched through printing; bar-codes not scannable or readable by scanner; human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item

Packaging Any item not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

5.3 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING

6.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order.

7. NOTES

7.1 Source of non-Government documents

ASTM Test Method D 1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by

Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus D 1776 Standard Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing D 2165 Standard Test Method for pH of Aqueous Extracts of Wool and

Similar Animal Fibers D 2256 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the

Single-Strand Method D 3511 Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related

Surfaces Changes of Textile Fabrics- Brush Pilling Tester D 3776 Standard Test Method for Test Method for Mass per Unit Area

(Weight) of Fabric D 3887 Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics D 5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society For Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.)”

AATCC Test Method 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration 16 Colorfastness to Light 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics

(Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians CIVIL AGENCY COORDINATING Navy - MC ACTIVITY:

GSA - FSS

PREPARING ACTIVITY:

DLA - CT

Project 8410-0357

Figure 1. Maternity Slack