A-A-55221A.pdf

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A-A-55221A

11 APR 2023

SUPERSEDING

A-A-55221

10 SEP 1993

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

TUNIC, MATERNITY

The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description by all federal agencies

1. SCOPE. This commercial item description (CID) covers a green polyester/wool maternity tunic to be worn by female personnel of the U.S. Marine Corps, when prescribed.

2. CLASSIFICATION. The tunic shall be available in one type and in the following sizes:

Tunic Size Equivalent Dress Size Extra-Small 2

Small 4-6 Medium 8-10

Large 12-14 Extra-Llarge 16-18

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 Description. The tunic shall be hip length, sleeveless, V-neck, with two side pockets, side tabs set into side seams with two buttons on each side for adjustment and two front princess seams which form pleats below the bustline front pleat insert with ornamental stitching, two back darts, one bust dart on each side, no collar, and two back adjustment tabs. The neck and armholes shall have facings with fused interfacing. All raw edges shall be overedged. The center back closure shall be a slide fastener. The finished tunic shall be pressed smooth and flat.

3.2 Material.

FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

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3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the tunic shall be a polyester/wool serge cloth, Green shade 2243 or color chip 34085 of AMS-STD-595. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in A-A- 50532.

3.2.2 Interfacing. The fusible interfacing for the front neck and armhole facings, back neck and armhole facings, and waist adjustment tabs shall be nonwoven web, thermally bonded by heat-activated fibers or powders. The web shall be either a flat or print bonded substrate with polyamide adhesive. The color shall be oxford grey. The interlining shall conform to the requirements in table I.

TABLE I. Interlining requirements.

Characteristic Requirement Verification method Weight (ounces/square yard) 1.7 to 2.6 ASTM D3776/D3776M, option C Breaking strength (pounds, minimum) Machine direction 3.0 ASTM D5034 Cross-machine direction 2.0 ASTM D5034 Bond strength (splits per inch of width, minimum) Initial 22 ASTM D2724 1/ After 20 launderings 18 ASTM D2724, AATCC TM135 1/ Color Gray Visual Dimensional stability (percent ±) 1.0 AATCC TM135, option 1, III, Ai

FOOTNOTE:

1/ “Splits” means that during the test, the fusible material cannot be removed from the outer shell. This will cause the fusible material to split from itself rather than separate from the material to which it is bonded.

3.2.3 Pocketing. The pocketing cloth shall be twill or plain weave cloth meeting the requirements of table II.

TABLE II. Pocketing fabric requirements

Characteristic Requirement Verification Method Fiber content Polyester (minimum) 1/ 47 AATCC TM20 Cotton (maximum) 2/ 53 AATCC TM20 Weave Plain Visual Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp 70 ASTM D3775 3/ Filling 45 ASTM D3775 3/ Weight (ounces/square yard) 3.0 to 4.0 ASTM D3776/D3776M, option C Breaking strength (pounds, minimum) Warp 60 to 70 ASTM D5034 Filling 40 to 45 ASTM D5034 Visual shade matching Daylight D65 (6500±200 Kelvin [K]) (with illumination of 100±20 foot candles) 4/

Match to color chip 34085 or 37029 of

SAE-AMS-STD-595

AATCC EP9, option C 4/

Incandescent (2856±200K) Match to color chip 34085 or 37029 of

SAE-AMS-STD-595

AATCC EP9, option C 4/

FOOTNOTES:

1/ One hundred percent polyester is acceptable.

2/ If fabric is not one hundred percent polyester, the balance of fabric that is not polyester shall be cotton. If any cotton content is present, labile sulfur testing (see 3.2.3.1) may be required.

3/ Samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776/D1776M.

4/ See 7.5.

3.2.3.1 Presence of labile sulfur. Fabrics containing cotton shall be free of labile sulfur when tested as follows.

In the determination of labile sulfur in textile materials with lead acetate, two 1.50±0.01-gram samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains100 grams of American Chemical Society (ACS) grade stannous chloride crystals in 100 millimeters of ACS grade hydrochloric acid (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters of distilled water. A filter paper wet out with a 5.0 percent lead acetate solution shall be placed over the top of the test tube. The lead acetate solution shall contain 5.0 grams of chemically pure lead acetate reagent grade and enough distilled water to make up a 100-milliliter solution; if the solution is not clear, add a few drops (one at a time) of glacial acetic acid until the solution is clear. The test tube containing the textile sample, stannous chloride, and wet filter paper shall be heated over a low flame until the solution is boiling. The solution should not be heated for more than 15 seconds. A brown to black stain on the filter paper should be evaluated as follows:

Free – The filter paper shows no discoloration or staining of any kind.

Slight – The filter paper shows a light tan to light brown discoloration stain.

Moderate – The filter paper shows a dark brown discoloration stain.

Severe – The filter paper shows a black color stain.

3.2.4 Finishing tape. The tape for finishing the bottom of the tunic shall be a polyester flat weave tape, 1/2 to 5/8 inch wide. The weave shall be plain or 2/2 herringbone twill with one reversal of twill in the center of the tape. The color of the tape shall approximate the basic material.

3.2.5 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be type I, class 4 or 5 of A-A-55634, size LS (commercial no. 4) with a short pull tab. The chain, slider, and stops shall be brass and furnished by the same supplier. The tape shall be cotton, synthetic, or a combination of both and shall have a minimum width of 7/16±1/8 inch. The length of the slider shall be 22 inches for all sizes of tunic. As an alternate, the polyester or nylon coil fastener may be used. The alternate slide fastener shall be equal to a commercial size no. 2. The color of the slide fastener shall be green, cable no. 66531. The dyed tape shall show good colorfastness when tested as specified in AATCC TM61-3A.

3.2.6 Thread. Thread for all seaming and stitching shall be cotton-covered polyester in accordance with A-A-50199, type I, meeting the requirements of table III. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material and shall meet the colorfastness requirements specified for the basic material. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments, other than those commonly used on commercial threads.

TABLE III. Thread requirements

Operation Type Tex Breaking Strength (pounds, minimum

Buttonholes Soft finish 40 2.6 Seams and stitching Soft finish 40 1.8

Overedging Soft finish 30 1.5 Buttons Glazed 105 5.3

3.2.7 Buttons. The buttons used on the side seam tab shall be in accordance with A-A-59994, type I, style

20/21, 30 ligne, class 2 and shall be a good match to the basic material. The color shall be glossy. All buttons shall be securely sewn by machine to the tunic by lockstitch and attached by x-stitch. Each button shall be properly aligned and centered to correspond with its respective buttonhole. Loose threads shall be trimmed to 1/8 inch. There shall be a total of two buttons for adjustment on the back panel set according to the pattern markings. Two replacement buttons shall be placed at the side seam of the tunic inside of the garment

3.3 Stitching. All lockstitching shall have 10 to 14 stitches per inch; overedge stitching shall have 8 to 10 stitches per inch. Shoulder, side, and center back seams shall be pressed open and flat. The bottom of pleats shall be closed with a temporary stitch 1/2 inch long. The seams joining side fronts and center front shall be topstitched 3/8-inch gauge through all seam allowances from shoulder seam to top of pleats. The center front shall have two rows of topstitching, 1/4-inch gauge, horizontally across the top of the pleats. The neckline and armhole seams shall be raise-stitched on the facings. The facings shall be tacked to the outer shell of the tunic at the side seams and the front pleats. The identification/instruction/size label shall be stitched on all four sides to the left back neck facing, 1±1/4 inch from the center back seam. The bottom edges of the neck and armhole facings and all raw edges shall be finished with an overedge stitch. The bottom hem shall be blindstitched and finished with hem tape. The side tabs shall be edge-stitched 8 to 10 stitches per inch, 1/8 inch from the edge.

The pocket shall be tacked at the top and bottom of the pocket opening.

3.3.1 Buttonholes. All front buttonholes shall be placed with the marks as indicated on the pattern. Each side tab shall have a horizontal buttonhole, and the front cut edge shall be 7/8 inch from the point of the tab. The buttonhole stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric, and the ends shall be securely tacked. The buttonholes shall be tacked on the ends toward the side seam. The buttonholes shall be cut clean, and all loose threads shall be trimmed within 1/8 inch of the tack. Loose threads (floats) in the buttonholes shall be trimmed.

3.4 Labels

3.4.1 Label and marking. A label meeting the requirements of MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 10 and 14 shall be placed at the upper back inside of the tunic, centered and 1/2 inch below the collar seam. If service-specific markings are required, they will be cited in the contract or order (see 7.3). The label shall include the following information, with information inserted, as applicable to the tunic.

TUNIC, MATERNITY

FIBER CONTENT: 80% Polyester/20% Wool (as applicable to fabric used) SIZE: Small (example)

NSN: 8410-XX-XXX-XXXX

CONTRACT NUMBER: XXXXXXXXXX

(NAME OF CONTRACTOR)

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

MACHINE WASH, WARM

LINE OR TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT

COOL IRON ONLY

WASH DARKS SEPARATELY. DO NOT BLEACH

MAY BE DRY CLEANED.

3.4.2 Barcode label. The tunic shall be coded with a tag meeting the specifications of MIL-DTL-32075, type VIII, class 17; alternatively, a label meeting the requirements of type VII, class 17 may be adhered to the outside of the individual poly bag. Attachment of the barcoding label shall not cause any damage to the tunic.

3.5 Figures. Figures 1 through 3 are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.6 Patterns. The Government will furnish a complete set of graded patterns (see table IV). The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1-1/2 inches for hemming the bottom of the tunic, 5/8-inch seam allowance for joining the side seams and 3/8-inch seam allowance for all other seams. Contractors may modify government furnished patterns to accommodate automation. Contractor-modified government patterns may be used in lieu of the Government-furnished pattern provided the finished tunic meets the design (see 3.1) and the finished measurements in 3.7.

TABLE IV. Pattern parts.

Material Part name

Cut

Basic material Back 2 Side front 2 Center front 1 Side tab 4 Back facing 2 Side front facing 2 Center front facing 1 Pocket 4 Interfacing Back facing interfacing 2

Front facing interfacing 1 Center front facing interfacing 1 Side front facing interfacing 2 Side tab interfacing 2

3.6 Finished measurements. The undershirts shall conform to the finished measurements in table V when measured in accordance with the guidance in table VI. Garments shall be laid flat, allowed to rest, and measurements shall be taken from the wearer’s left without stretching or bunching. The sizes may be abbreviated as XS, S, M, L, XL.

TABLE V. Finished measurements (inches).

Measurement Tol. X- Small

Small Mediu m

Large X- Large

A Half bust ±1/2 19-3/4 20-3/4 21-3/4 22- 3/4

23-3/4

B Back length ±1/2 27-1/2 28-3/4 31 32- 1/4

33-1/2

TABLE VI. Finished measurement guidance.

Measurement Descriptio n

Measurement Guidance

A: Half bust (see table V) Measurement taken at the front from the bottom of armhole, across the chest horizontally.

A

B: Back length (see table V) Measurement taken from the center back top edge to the bottom edge.

B

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS.

5.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this CID, conform to the producer’s own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial marketplace. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Market acceptability. The item offered must have been sold to the government or commercial market.

5.3 Visual examination. Each tunic shall be examined for the defects listed below. Defects in excess of the manufacturer’s own quality assurance standards shall be cause for failure of the tunic. If the manufacturer does not currently examine for any defect listed below during either in-process examinations or end-item examinations, the contracting agency should be consulted to determine acceptance guidance.

a. Material defects – any hole, cut, tear, burn, mend, multiple float, loose or unsightly slub, or shade bar color not as specified; any spot or stain (outside), shaded part, overall uncleanness, color not as specified; or any objectionable odor.

b. Pressing – Omitted, burned, scorched, gloss, wrinkles or creases, or bulky edges

d. Workmanship – Any component part omitted, twisted, not specified size, misplaced, poorly shaped, or not lying flat; slide fastener that does not align, operate, lock or mesh properly; or measurement of item not as specified.

e. Labels – Label(s) missing, incorrect, or illegible; barcode or UPC code label omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation omitted or illegible; barcode not visible on folded or packaged item; or barcode label causes damage to the item.

6. PACKAGING. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order.

7. NOTES.

7.1 Intended use. This tunic is intended to be worn by pregnant female military personnel.

7.2 Source of documents.

7.2.1 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). AATCC test methods are available from www.aatcc.org or P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.

7.2.2 ASTM International. ASTM standards are available from www.astm.org or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.

7.2.3 SAE International. Colors Used in Government Procurement AMS STD595A is available from www.sae.org/standards.

7.2.4 Defense specifications. Defense specifications are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.

7.3 Ordering data. The contract or order should specify the following:

a. CID document number and revision.

b. Quantity required.

c. Class(es) and size(s) required (see 2).

d. Service-specific markings, if requested (see 3.4.1).

e. Product conformance provisions (see 5.1).

f. Packaging requirements.

g. National Stock Numbers (NSNs) (see 7.4)

7.4 NSNs. The following is a list of NSNs assigned that correspond to this CID. The list may not be indicative of all possible NSNs associated with the CID.

Size Equivalent Dress

Size

NSN

Extra-Small 2 8410-01-443-

Small 4 to 6 8410-01-443-

Medium 8 to 10 8410-01-443-

Large 12 to 14 8410-01-443-

Extra-Large 16 to 18 8410-01-443-

7.5 Visual shade matching. In 2017, option A of AATCC EP9 was changed to option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35±5-degree angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90-degree angle, relative to the plane of the specimens.”

7.5.1 Use of D75 illuminant. The use of D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500±200K illumination of 100±20 foot candles in lieu of the specified D65 illuminant is permitted

7.6 Standard samples. Standard samples for shade or appearance can be obtained through the contracting agency.

7.7 Key words.

Polyester Pregnant

FIGURE 1. Maternity tunic (front view).

FIGURE 2. Maternity tunic (back view).

FIGURE 3. Maternity tunic (side view).

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: Preparing Activity:

Navy – MC DLA – CT

(Project 8410-2023-002)