FNS-PD 96-11.pdf

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SKIRTS, MATERNITY

lrncH POUND I

FNS/PD 96-11

November 13, 1996

This purchase description is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for maternity skirts made of a polyester and wool blend fabric. These skirts are intended for wear by female military personnel.

2. Classification. The skirts shall be of one type in the following sizes:

Schedule of sizes

Extra Small 2 Small 4-6 Medium 8-10 Large 12-14 Extra Large 16-18

3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS

3 .1 Description. The skirt shall consist of a one piece front with a knitted nylon cloth stretch panel inserted across the upper front and a two piece back with waist darts. The skirt shall have a full elastic waistband, and shall be unhemmed. Hem finishing tape of sufficient length to cover the skirt hem shall be shipped with each skirt.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc.) and any data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FNSC, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099.

AMSCN/A

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A.

FSC 8410

Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited

FNS/PD 96-11

3 .2 Stitching. All lockstitching shall have 10 - 14 stitches per inch; overedge stitching shall have 8 - 10 stitches per inch. The top edge of the identification/instruction/size label shall be caught in the waistband tunnel stitching, centered at the back of skirt. All raw edges shall be finished with an overedge stitch. The waistband tunnel stitching and all seam joining shall be accomplished with a lockstitch. Side and center back seams shall be pressed open and flat; the seam joining upper and lower front pieces shall be topstitched 1/4 ±118 inch below seam, through all seam allowances.

3.3 Material

3. 3 .1 Basic material. The basic material for the skirt shall be a polyester/wool serge, Green shade 2243. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table I below.

TABLE I - PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Weight ( oz./linear yd.) 10.5 to 11.0 ASTM-D3776 Opt. C ll 7J Fiber content Certificate of

Polyester 77 to 83 percent Compliance Wool 17 percent (min.)

Yarn ply Singles Certificate of Compliance

Weave 212 right hand twill Certificate of Compliance

Yarns per inch (min.) Warp - 65 ASTM-D3775 2/ Filling - 55

Breaking strength (min.) Warp - 160 lbs. ASTM-D5034 Filling - 140 lbs.

Dimensional Stability Warp - 2.5 percent AATCC 135 (max.) Filling - 2.5 percent Tearing strength (Min.) Warp - 6.0 lbs. ASTM-Dl424

Filling - 6.0 lbs.

pH 5.5 - 8.5 FED-STD-191 #2811 Colorfastness to: (min.)

Wet/dry cleaning Class 4 AATCC 132 Crocking Grade 3 AATCC 8 Perspiration Class 4 AATCC 15 'J./ Light Class 4 AATCC 16, Opt A1/ Laundering (3 cycles) 4.0 good AATCC 61-2A ~/ ll Weight based on 56 inch width.

2/ Samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM-D 1776.

J/ Test for colorfastness for acid and alkaline solution shall apply.

FNS!PD 96-11

1f When a color change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale is evident in either sample being evaluated or the standard sample, exposure shall be continued for an additional number of hours equal to the number of hours at which the color change was apparent. Specimens which do not show a color change until 80 AFU's shall be returned to the machine for a total exposure period not to exceed 140 hours.

'ii The laundering cycle shall be 30 minutes and the temperature of the container and it's contents shall be maintained at 100 +4 F (38+ 2 C). Only the stain on the wool fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

3 .3 .2 Knitted cloth. The cloth for the front stretch panel shall be an interlock knit, tubular, stretch type nylon cloth conforming to Green shade 2245. The cloth shall weigh 6.5 to 8.0 oz./sq.

yd. when tested according to test method ASTM-D3776 Option C and have a minimum of 30 wale yarns per inch and 35 courses per inch when tested according to test method ASTM-D3887.

Samples shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM-D 1776.

3.3.3 Thread. A cotton soft finish thread shall be used for seaming. The thread shall be spun from combed cotton and shall be 11,023 to 12,400 yards per pound, 3 ply, 40 Tex, with a minimum breaking strength of 1. 8 lbs. with 5 determinations per sample unit when tested according to ASTM D2256. The thread for overedge stitching shall be cotton, 14, 173 to 16,535 yards per pound, 3 ply, 30 Tex, with a minimum breaking strength of 1.5 lbs. with 5 determinations per sample unit when tested according to ASTM D2256. The threads shall be dyed Olive Drab, shade T-1, cable No. 66203, and shall show "good" colorfastness to laundering (3 cycles; dried after each cycle), light, perspiration and wet/dry cleaning when tested according to AATCC 61-3A; AATCC 16 (option A); AATCC 15; and AATCC 132, respectively. The color of the dyed cotton thread shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 7500 ±200K with illumination of 100 ±20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 ±200K. Certificates of compliance shall be submitted for all requirements and the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

3.3.4 Finishing tape. The tape for finishing the bottom of the skirt shall be a rayon, flat weave tape, 1 /2 to 5/8 inches wide. The weave shall be plain or 2/2 herringbone twill with one reversal of twill in the center of the tape. The color of the tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material.

3. 3. 5 Elastic waistband stabilizer. The elastic for the waistband shall be made with a monofilament nylon filling and textured nylon warp. The width shall be 1 inch and the elongation shall be 100 ± 10 percent ( 18 inch sample with 5 inch bench marks and extended to its ultimate elongation). The core elastomer shall be a cotton covered spandex and the finished "elastic" shall be both launderable and dry-cleanable.

3.4 Labels

3 .4.1 Identification/instruction/size label. Each skirt shall have a white, commercial type, combination identification/instruction/size label. The label inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points, and shall show "good" colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in AATCC 61-3A. The label shall include the following information:

Nomenclature: Skirts, Maternity Fiber Content: 83% Polyester/ 17% Wool (Example) Size: Medium (Example) Stock No.: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) Contract No.: SPO 100-00-0-000 (Example) Name of Contractor:

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS

Machine wash, warm. Line or tumble dry. Wash darks separately. Do Not Bleach. May be dry cleaned.

3 .4 .2 Label/tag. Each skirt shall be individually barcoded. The barcode label shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The barcoding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The barcode type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item.

3 .5 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of graded patterns. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 5/8 inch, with 3 inches provided for hemming. The government patterns may be used to create the contractor's working patterns, however the design and measurements of the patterns shall not be altered in any way, with the exception of minor modifications to accommodate automation.

3.5.1 Pattern parts: The component parts of the skirt shall be cut from the material specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table II:

TABLE II- LIST OF PATTERN PARTS

Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts Basic material Lower front 1

Back 2 Knitted cloth Upper front panel 1

3.6 Finished measurements. The finished skirt shall conform to the measurements in Table III.

Any dimension that is not within the established tolerence shall be classified as a defect. Skirts shall be measured lying smooth and flat. A, B, C, and D refer to locations on Figure 1.

TABLE III - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (INCHES)

Size Waist Waist Hips(C) Length (D) relaxed (A) stretched (B)

Extra Small 27 35 40 29 Small 28 37 42 29-1/2 Medium 29 39 44 30 Large 30 41 48 31 Extra Large 31 44 51 32 Tolerance ±112 ±112 ±1/2 ±112

(A - B) Waist - Twice the measurement taken in center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

(C) Hips - Twice the measurement taken on the skirt 8 inches down from top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

(D) Length - Measurement taken at center back from top edge of waistband to bottom edge of unhemmed skirt.

4. Regulatory Requirements. The offerer/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

5 .1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this purchase description, conform to the producer's own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in the commercial market.

The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.2 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivalent, must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government.

5.3 Visual examination. Each skirt shall be examined for the defects listed below.

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Material and Component part omitted, not cut as specified, distorted, full, tight, or twisted;

workmanship any part of skirt caught in any unrelated row of stitching

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub

Any finished measurement not as specified

Permanent fold, pleat, or crease

EXAMINATION DEFECT

Material and Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular or open, loose or workmanship tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, raw edge, not pressed as specified

Waistband: twisted, not uniform in width by more than 1/8 inch, elastic caught in waistband stitching, elastic twisted or rolling

Hem finishing tape omitted or inadequate length to cover entire hem

Darts twisted or puckered, drill holes exposed, darts uneven in length by 112 inch or more

Shade Shade variation within a part or between parts

Thread color not as specified Cleanness Spot, stain, thread ends not trimmed or removed

Rancid odor Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, misplaced, not attached as specified, or stitched through printing; bar-codes not scannable or readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item

Packaging Any item not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

5.4 Warranty. The item offered shall include the standard warranty given to the commercial market beginning with the date of delivery of the individual item.

5. 5 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. Packaging. The preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

7. NOTES

7.1 Sources of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents are available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

7.2 Source of non-government documents.

AATCC Test Methods - Applications for copies should be addressed to:

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists P.O. Box 12215 Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215

ASTM Test Methods Application for copies should be addressed to:

American Society for Testing and Materials 100 Barr Harbor Drive West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodian:

Navy-MC

Civil Agency Coordinating Activity:

GSA-FSS

Preparing Activity:

DLA-CT

-,-----; --~ f I ------------

FRONT

NOTES: CD SEE TABLE Ill

@DIM. A - RELAXED

DIM. B - STRETCHED

FNS/PD 96-11

Dl

BACK

ELASTIC WAISTBAND STABILIZER

BASIC MATERIAL

WAISTBAND SECTION A-A

FIGURE 1. SKIRTS~ MATERNllY