Exhibit B-1 Specifications.docx

EXHIBIT B-1 – CUSTOM UNIFORMS SPECIFICATIONS

This Exhibit provides specifications for Custom Uniforms. Bidders must indicate in their response to Exhibit C-1 if they are bidding the Standard of Quality (SOQ) item listed here or an equal or better alternative.

The State is looking to find the best value. Enterprise Services is not limiting bidders to the Standard of Quality (SOQ) items and is open to accepting alternatives with equal or better specifications. If Bidders can offer items from more than one manufacturer, Bidders may submit more than one bid, providing additional options for the State to evaluate.

FABRIC:

Content – 75% Polyester/ 25% Wool plain weave. Machine washable and dry cleanable polyester provides user comfort, uniform appearance, durability, and easy care.

Weight – 14 oz. per linear yard

Physical Properties:

· Ply of yarn – 2-ply Warp, Single ply filling

· Tensile Strength –

· 150 Pounds in the Warp

· 130 Pounds in the Filling

· Tear Strength –

· 2.5 Pounds in the Warp

· 2.5 Pounds in the Filling

· Construction – 74 ends per inch, 66 picks per inch

· Fiber Length – Worsted Wool: 3-3.5 inches average minimum

TRIM:

· Interlining: polyester non- woven

· Waistband: polyester/wool blend with single strip of silicone shirt grip

· Fly zipper: nylon coil #5 with auto lock slider

· Closure: Hook & Eye steel with Nickel finish

· Buttons: melamine, 22 ligne, matching shell fabric

INTERNAL CONSTRUCTION FABRIC:

Pockets, waistband and fly lining shall be:

Blend: 65% Dacron Polyester, 35% cotton Weave: Twill Weight: 5.2 oz/yd.

Color: Dark Grey Finish: Pre-cure permanent press

WAISTBAND:

The inside waistband is assembled from stretch webbing 2-1/2” wide and 1/4” extension, and is reinforced internally with a 1” wide stretch knit polyester stiffener. The outside waistband is a full 2” wide. The inner circumference of the waistband has permanently two (2) continuous 1/8” beads of silicone. The beads are spaced 1/4” apart and located respectively 1/2” and 3/4” down from the top of the waistband to enhance neat appearance by preventing shirt pullout at the waist. Grown on waistlines are not acceptable in lieu of trouser waistband, as they add no strength or shape to the garment. Waistbands, which do not allow extra fabric, cannot be “let out” by alteration, as these are also unacceptable.

BELT LOOPS:

There are seven (7) belt loops on all size trousers up to and including waist 42” and nine (9) loops on waist sizes 44” and over. Each loop shall be fully 2-1/4” long and 5/8” wide double needle stitched and interlined with fusible. They shall be set into the waistband at the bottom and tacked at the top, except the rear center loop, which shall be tacked top and bottom.

DARTS:

There are two darts to shape the trouser. They shall be placed at the left and right back extending down from the waistband to the center of each hip pocket.

WAIST CLOSURE:

Primary waist closure is a double hook and eye construction mounted on the waistband using rustproof nickel-plated steel hardware as follows: Size 85 Eye and Eye internal reinforcement plate. Size 8 hook and hook internal reinforcement plate. Metal snaps which may become burred or crushed and cannot be replaced are unacceptable, as is single hook and eye construction.

In addition to Hook and Eye plates, the construction includes the additional internal reinforcement of 7/8” tape mounted between the plates and the body fabric to insure construction integrity for extended wear life.

Waist closure and appearance is further guaranteed by mounting a four-hole button/ buttonhole closure 1” below the waistband on the left and right fly construction.

SIDE FASTENER:

Slide fastener (fly zipper) consists of locking type Delrin coil self-healing hardware mounted on colorfast black blend of nylon and cotton 7/16” tape.

FLY CONSTRUCTION:

The right inside fly is reinforced with internal construction fabric and 1/8” gauge topstitched along the entire exposed edge to insure shape retention for extended wear life. The left, outside fly is fully lined internally for shape retention. Right and left fly are joined together at the base of the fly. The joined fly forms a reinforcing tailpiece construction fully extending along the crotch seam to its intersection with leg inseams.

CROTCH AND SEAT ASSEMBLY:

The crotch is formed below the fly at the intersection of the four body panels of the trousers. Left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. The trouser is assembled to form this crotch by first sewing the left front to the left rear thus making the left side of the trouser, and the right front to the right rear to form the rights side. The left side of the trouser thus formed is then joined together to the right side by means of the seat seam. The trouser is not assembled by the alternate whole front to whole back method due to the unreliability of that method during extended wear life.

SEAT CONSTRUCTION:

To insure absolute seat seam integrity, the seat seam, which joins the left and right sides of the trousers, is double sewn by means of two needles each; sewing stitch type 401, double locked stitch. The two needles sew in tandem to form closely adjacent alternating stitches totaling not less than 16 per inch. Seams, which expose thread to external abrasion, are unacceptable. Extra fabric is allowed such that seat girth and waistband diameter may be expanded or decreased by the wearer during the trousers extended wear life. Flat felled seams do not allow for alteration and are unacceptable.

CROTCH REINFORCEMENT:

The crotch intersection, which is the core of the trouser, shall be reinforced with quarter linings to absorb extreme stress over an extended wear life by the internal mounting of a reinforcement gusset formed by an extension of the tail of the fly. This gusset is mounted around its perimeter by stitch 301 such that it locks together the four panels of the trouser to absolutely eliminate any potential for crotch seam failure.

LEG CONSTRUCTION:

The legs are fully cut for ease of movement and assembled using stitch 515, four-thread safety stitch and lock stitching creating a split seam construction allowing tapering of the inseam. There shall also be left and right let outs of approximately 1” for 7” at the inner thigh for alteration in which the waist fits correctly but the thigh is too tight for the wearer. Front and back legs shall have resin creases starting from bottom of front pocket to bottom hem.

POCKETS:

There are six (6) pockets assembled from internal construction fabric as follows:

I. Front: Left and right 6-1/2” straight side style opening with 11-1/4” depth. Opening to be bar-tack reinforced at top inside waistband and at bottom across side seam. Construction includes a second reinforcing layer or “Heel” at the bottom of each pocket not less than 2” deep. Pockets, including reinforcement “Heels” are assembled using an over-edge stitch, then turned and re-stitched by stitch 301 for absolute reliability for the life of the trouser.

II. Rear: Left and right besom type hip pockets with bottom welt construction openings 5-3/4” wide and 6” deep. Openings triangle bar-tack reinforced at both ends. Both pocket openings include a tab and #22 ligne black four hole buttonhole to close the pocket.

III. Side Cut-In Left and right side cut-in pockets with nylon coil size #5 zipper closure, 1/2” single wide welt and shall have 1/16” topstitching. Pocket opening shall be 7-1/2” and measures 9” deep. Inside of both pockets shall be a small elasticized pocket placed 1-1/4” from zipper edge, measuring 6” wide at top, 4-1/2” wide at bottom, and 6” long.

CUSTOMIZATION:

1-1/2” wide stripe trim is sewn-in to each of the full length of the side seams, in front of the side pocket onto the front side of the pant using a 2-needle machine without pleats or puckering. It shall go through the side cut-in welt pocket and be in specific color; blue specified by agency.

THREAD:

All thread shall be polyester wrapped on monofilament polyester. Color to match.

STITCHING:

All stitching conforms to Federal Standard 751 specifications (FED-STD-751). All stitch types are sewn at stitch per inch (S.P.I.) rates individually set by operation at no less than 10 S.P.I. and not more than 12 S.P.I. to insure extended sewn wear life. Stitch type 401 Tandem is used at a combined S.P.I. of 16. All thread tension is evenly maintained to eliminate right or loose stitching. All seam allowances are to be maintained so that there are no raw edges, run offs, twist, pleats, puckers or open seams.

FINISHING:

Trousers are fully shaped on high temperature, high-pressure presses to eliminate wrinkles and form creases.

Trousers meet the standard of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists as follows:

I. AATCC Test Method 124-1975 “Appearance of Durable Press Fabric After Repeated Home Launderings”.

II. AATCC Test Method 88B-1975 “Appearance of Seams in Wash and Wear Items After Home Launderings”.

III. AATCC Test method 88C-1975 “Appearance of Crease in Wash and Wear Items After Home Launderings”.

WARRANTY:

All trousers shall be warranted against defects in materials and workmanship for one year.

LABELING:

All trousers will bear all labels mandated by the Federal Trade Commission at the date of manufacture. All products must be cut and sewn in Mexico using US and Mexico made components.

SIZING:

Trousers are fully graded such that all vital dimensions change according to waist size. The grade applies not only to seat, front rise, back rise, and thigh measurements but also to the knee and bottom measurements.

STANDARD SIZE RANGE:

Men's: Regular Length: even waist sizes 28 - 54; odd sizes 31 - 37 Women's: Regular Length: even dress sizes 6 – 24

MEASUREMENTS:

Men’s Regular Length: Waist Size 34:

a. 1/2 Waist: 17.5 (plus 0.25 inch)

b. Seat: 22.375 (plus 0.25 inch)

c. 1/2 Knee: 10.625 (plus 0.25 inch)

d. 1/2 Bottom Leg: 9 (plus 0.25 inch)

e. Inseam: 37 (plus 0.50 inch)

f. Front Rise: 10 (plus 0.25 inch)

g. Back Rise: 15.5 (plus 0.25 inch) Women’s Regular Length: Dress Size 12

a. 1/2 Waist (Relaxed): 17.5 (plus 0.25 inches)

b. 1/2 Waist (Stretched): 18.5 (plus 0.25 inches)

c. Seat: 22.25 (plus or minus 0.25 inches)

d. 1/2 Knee: 10.312 (plus or minus 0.25 inches)

e. 1/2 Bottom Leg: 8.875 (plus or minus 0.25 inches)

f. Inseam: 35.75 (plus or minus 0.50 inches)

g. Front Rise: 9.125 (plus or minus 0.25 inches)

h. Back Rise: 13.5 (plus or minus 0.25 inches)

GENERAL:

Specification based on Men Size Medium, Regular length.

FABRIC – SHELL & CONTRAST:

Content – 75% Polyester /25% Worsted wool plain weave, manufactured by Raeford. Machine washable and dry cleanable polyester provides user comfort, uniform appearance, durability, and easy care.

Weight – 6.10-6.40 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Ply of yarn – 2-ply Warp, Single ply filling

· Construction – 47 ends per inch, 43 picks per inch

· Breaking Strength –

· ≥ 120 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 90 lbs in Filling

· Tear Strength –

· ≥ 12 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 10 lbs in Filling

· Minimum Filling Stretch – 10%

· Fiber Length – Worsted Wool: 3-3.5 inches average minimum; Polyester: 3 inches minimum

SIDE KNIT FABRIC:

Content – 92% Nylon 8% Lycra mesh technical knit with high abrasion, pill resistance and anti-microbial finish. Breathable, 4 way stretch.

Weight – 6 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Pilling Resistance (Face) – 5

· Stretch (elongation) – 105 x 170

· Bursting Strength, min (psi) – 100 Colorfastness:

· Laundering shade change, min – 4

· 2A washes fastness – 4

· Dry/Wet Crocking – 4

TRIM:

· Lining: Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester

· Interlining: 100% polyester & 100% cotton

· Front Zipper: nylon coil, size 4.5

· Hook and loop: Woven Nylon base

· Buttons: melamine, 20 ligne, matching shell fabric

TOP FUSING: The following small parts shall be top fused prior to sewing.

Placket, collar, and cuffs fused with Etacol 100% Cotton Print Cloth, 3.20 oz/sq yd.; woven Pocket flaps and epaulets, fuse and tac with Thermalbond, 100% polyester, 1.55 oz/sq. yd.; non-woven

GENERAL DESIGN:

This is a long sleeve zipper front shirt with a mock button center front placket and a banded collar. Construction is in a woven/knit fabric combination with underarm panels and sleeve insert. There is also contrast color for pocket flaps, cuffs, and epaulets.

COLLAR:

Points medium spread are to be 3-1/4” in length and are to be topstitched 1/4” from the edge. Back of the stand measures 1-1/4”. Permanent stays measuring 2-1/2” in length and 1/4” wide, are to be placed inside the collar layers and sewn in permanent place through topstitching at the front collar edge. Stand shall fasten with one (1) button. Inner stand and inner yoke to be lined with matching Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester, cut on the bias, to assure that the collar will lie properly. Collar shall be top fused and lay flat.

SLEEVES:

Are a straight style, in one piece with underarm gusset panel of knit fabric. The square edge cuffs in contrast color fabric are 3” in width, and fasten with two customer applied metal buttons with toggle. Partial-slit buttonholes for the metal button/toggle are spaced 1-1/8” center-to-center with additionally 2 fully slit buttonholes for the working buttons and an underneath guard cuff strip to protect the wearer from abrasion of the metal button/toggle. Cuffs are to be top fused and fully lined to give body by sewing in a self-fabric inner lining, cut straight to retain its shape. A shaped banjo elbow of 1-ply shell fabric has a vent placket of 2-1/4” wide finished with 1/16” & 1/4” double-needle topstitching around edges. The sleeve seam, as well as the sleeve setting seam (i.e. securing it to be body of the shirt) must be made by a narrow safety stitch, so as to properly strengthen the seam, as well as prevent the fabric from raveling. A silicone crease will be applied down the center of the sleeve.

FRONT:

The front shall have a center facing 1-1/2” wide, extending to the bottom of the shirt and be made of the same material as the shirt fabric with double needle top-stitching 1” apart and 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge. This center facing shall be top fused to give body. There shall be a 14” Nylon zipper, graded to size, with a compatible colored tape sewn to the front of the shirt, replacing the functionality of the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth buttons. Buttons second through sixth are a non-functioning metal /toggle version applied through the horizontal oriented partial slit buttonholes on the top center front facing. The buttonholes on the center front shall be placed centered from edge to edge and spaced so that the distance from the center of the buttonhole to the center of the next buttonhole is 3-1/2”. The neck button, first front button, and bottom front button shall be functional. While the first button will be a metal/toggle functional button with an under placket guard to protect the wearer from abrasion by the toggle, the neck & bottom/ last button will be a melamine button with appropriate functionality buttonhole(s).

MESH SIDE PANELS:

Mesh panels are sewn into side seam of sleeve and body with 1/16" topstitching around mesh panels. Sleeve mesh panels are sewn at the upper portion of the sleeve seam and measure 2-3/4” at widest part and tapers down 9” long to blend with sleeve seam. Side panels measures 2-3/4” wide top and 4-3/4” at bottom hem and sewn to the side seams of the front and back of shirt. Hem shall be clean finished using double bend back folder with 1/4" top stitching gauge. There is a 1" opening 9-1/2” below the underarm/armhole seam on both side seams towards the front.

POCKETS:

Style has two (2) breast pockets. Breast pockets are double-needle top-stitched 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge, with mitered corners, to finish 5-1/2” wide and 5-3/4” long. The left and right breast pockets shall have a pencil compartment 1-1/4” wide. Breast pockets have 1-1/2” box pleat stitched top and bottom to prevent spreading.

FLAPS:

There are two (2) mitered corner flaps, double needle top-stitched 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge, to finish 5-3/4” in width, 2-1/2” in long at center, and 1-3/4” in long at sides. Flaps are secured to the front of the shirt with two rows of stitching 3/16” apart. Left and right flaps have a pencil opening corresponding to pencil compartment in the pocket. Flaps are fully lined to give body, by sewing in a Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester interlining, 425 weight mellowpress, cut straight. There is to be a partially slit buttonhole sewn on the flap. The side points of the flaps are to be secured to the pocket by means of Velcro fasteners sewn onto the flaps and pockets, the hook portion being stitched to the pocket and pile portion sewn to the underside of the flap. The pile piece sewn to the flap shall not be sewn through and through the flap, but must be attached during the manufacturing process before the flap is assembled to prevent the stitching from showing.

BADGE TAB:

This is reinforced on the inside of the vest by means of a strip of ribbon or shell fabric material 1” wide, that has been stitched and folded, so that there are no raw edges. This reinforcement strip is to be set approximately 2” down from the top of the pocket, to be caught in the double stitching of the flap setting stitches and extend up be caught in the joining seam at the shoulder. There shall be a sewn-on badge tab finished measures of 1-3/8" tall x 7/8" wide with 1/4" 'tunnel' open for badge pin to slide through, placed 1 1/4" up from top edge of flap. Two (2) box stitches to sew onto chest through ribbon sling and a horizontal bar-tack at each corner.

EPAULETS/ SHOULDER STRAP:

Shall measure 1-3/4" wide at the shoulders and 1-1/2" wide at the point with the ends clean finished into armhole seam. They are constructed of 2 ply contrast color fabric and 2 ply fuse-n-tac interlining, finished with double needle top-stitching 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge. The epaulet is centered over shoulder seam, and set with point 1" from finished neckline seam; stitched to shirt along both edges of point forming the "V" and a 2-1/4” length “X” stitching at shoulder. A vertical oriented, partial slit buttonhole is stitched to each epaulet 3/8" from point.

BACK YOKE:

One-piece back yoke fully lined with matching Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester. The yoke is to measure approximately 4-1/4” high at the center back. The yoke shall be double needle top-stitched to the back to prevent rolling of the yoke seam.

PERMANENT MILITARY CREASE:

Shirt has five (5) permanent 1/16” military style stitched-in creases. One (1) crease in each front, extends from hem to the shoulder joining seam. Front pockets and flaps to be centered over the crease. Crease is not to run through pocket of flap. Three (3) vertical creases in back starting at the bottom of the yoke, middle crease on center back line, side creases spaced equally from center crease.

CUSTOMIZATION:

Agency patches/ emblems will be sewn onto each (left & right) sleeve at customer specified location, applied by dealer.

THREAD:

All thread shall be polyester wrapped on monofilament polyester. Color to match.

STITCHING:

All stitching conforms to Federal Standard 751 specifications (FED-STD-751). All stitch types are sewn at stitch per inch (S.P.I.) rates individually set by operation at no less than 10 S.P.I. and not more than 12 S.P.I. to insure extended sewn wear life. All thread tension is evenly maintained to eliminate right or loose stitching. All seam allowances are to be maintained so that there are no raw edges, run offs, twist, pleats, puckers or open seams.

SIZES:

Permanent size marking giving neck size to be located inside of collar.

CARE LABEL:

Care instructions to be on hem of shirt in front.

PRESSING & FINISHING:

Shirt shall be carefully pressed by hand in a first class manner. All loose threads to be thoroughly trimmed.

STANDARD SIZE RANGE:

Men's: XS-3XL, (30-31), (32-33), (34-35), (36-37) Sleeve Lengths Women's: 28-54, Short and Regular Lengths

MEASUREMENTS:

Men's: Size 15.5, Regular (35)

a. Neck: 16.75” (plus or minus 0.5 inches)

b. 1/2 Chest: 23” (plus or minus 0.75 inches)

c. Back Length: 32.5” (plus or minus 0.5 inches) Women's: size 36, regular

a. Neck: 16.5” (plus or minus 0.5 inches)

b. 1/2 Chest: 20.5” (plus or minus 0.75 inches)

c. Back Length: 28” (plus or minus 0.5 inches)

GENERAL:

Specification based on Men’s Size Medium, Regular length.

FABRIC- SHELL & CONTRAST:

Content – 75% Polyester/ 25% Worsted wool plain weave, manufactured by Raeford. Machine washable and dry cleanable polyester provides user comfort, uniform appearance, durability, and easy care.

Weight – 6.10-6.40 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Ply of yarn – 2-ply Warp, Single ply filling

· Construction – 47 ends per inch, 43 picks per inch

· Breaking Strength –

· ≥ 120 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 90 lbs in Filling

· Tear Strength –

· ≥ 12 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 10 lbs in Filling

· Minimum Filling Stretch – 10%

· Fiber Length – Worsted Wool: 3-3.5 inches average minimum; Polyester: 3 inches minimum

SIDE KNIT FABRIC:

Content – 92% Nylon 8% Lycra mesh technical knit with high abrasion, pill resistance and anti-microbial finish. Breathable, 4 way stretch.

Weight – 6 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Pilling Resistance (Face) – 5

· Stretch (elongation) – 105 x 170

· Bursting Strength, min (psi) – 100 Colorfastness:

· Laundering shade change, min – 4

· 2A washes fastness – 4

· Dry/Wet Crocking – 4

TRIM:

· Lining: Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester

· Interlining: 100% polyester & 100% cotton

· Front Zipper: nylon coil, size 4.5

· Hook and loop: Woven Nylon base

· Buttons: melamine, 20 ligne, matching shell fabric

TOP FUSING:

The following small parts shall be top fused prior to sewing.

Placket, collar, and cuffs fused with Etacol 100% Cotton Print Cloth, 3.20 oz/sq yd.; woven Pocket flaps and epaulets, fuse and tac with Thermalbond, 100% polyester, 1.55 oz/sq. yd.; non-woven

GENERAL DESIGN:

This is a short sleeve zipper front shirt with a mock button center front placket and a convertible collar. Construction is in a woven/knit fabric combination with underarm panels and sleeve insert. There is also contrast color for pocket flaps and epaulets.

COLLAR:

Points medium spread are to be 2-5/8” in length and are to be topstitched 1/4” from the edge. Permanent stays measuring 2-1/2” in length and 1/4” wide, are to be placed inside the collar layers and sewn in permanent place through topstitching at the front collar edge. Collar shall be sport style without a collar band. Inner yoke to be lined with matching Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester, cut on the bias, to assure that the collar will lie properly. Collar shall be top fused and lay flat.

SLEEVES:

Are a straight style two piece with knit insert and hemmed below the bicep. The sleeve hem shall be top stitched to prevent rolling. A silicone crease will be applied down the center of the sleeve.

FRONT:

The front shall have a center facing 1-1/2” wide, extending to the bottom of the shirt and be made of the same material as the shirt fabric with double needle top-stitching 1” apart and 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge. This center facing shall be top fused to give body. There shall be a 14” Nylon zipper with a compatible colored tape sewn to the front of the shirt, replacing the functionality of second, third, fourth, and fifth buttons. Buttons second through fifth are a non-functioning metal /toggle version applied through the horizontal oriented buttonholes on the top center front facing. The buttonholes on the center front shall be placed centered from edge to edge and spaced so that the distance from the center of the buttonhole to the center of the next buttonhole is 3-1/2”. The first button will be a metal/toggle functional button with an under placket guard to protect the wearer from abrasion by the toggle, while the bottom/ last button will be a melamine button with a vertical buttonhole; there is to not be a button or hole at the neckline.

MESH SIDE PANELS:

Mesh panels are sewn into side seam of sleeve and body with 1/16" topstitching around mesh panels. Sleeve mesh panels are sewn at the upper portion of the sleeve seam and measure 2-3/4” at widest part and tapers down 9” long to blend with sleeve seam. Side panels measures 2-3/4” wide top and 4-3/4” at bottom hem and sewn to the side seams of the front and back of shirt. Hem shall be clean finished using double bend back folder with 1/4" top stitching gauge. There is a 1" opening 9-1/2” below the underarm/armhole seam on both side seams towards the front.

POCKETS:

Style has two (2) breast pockets. Breast pockets are double-needle top-stitched 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge, with mitered corners, to finish 5-1/2” wide and 5-3/4” long. The left and right breast pockets shall have a pencil compartment 1-1/4” wide. Breast pockets have 1-1/2” box pleat stitched top and bottom to prevent spreading.

FLAPS:

There are two (2) mitered corner flaps, double needle top-stitched 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge, to finish 5-3/4” in width, 2-1/2” in long at center, and 1-3/4” in long at sides. Flaps are secured to the front of the shirt with two rows of stitching 3/16” apart. Left and right flaps have a pencil opening corresponding to pencil compartment in the pocket. Flaps are fully lined to give body, by sewing in a Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester interlining, 425 weight mellowpress, cut straight. There is to be a partially slit buttonhole sewn on the flap. The side points of the flaps are to be secured to the pocket by means of Velcro fasteners sewn onto the flaps and pockets, the hook portion being stitched to the pocket and pile portion sewn to the underside of the flap. The pile piece sewn to the flap shall not be sewn through and through the flap, but must be attached during the manufacturing process before the flap is assembled to prevent the stitching from showing.

BADGE TAB:

This is reinforced on the inside of the vest by means of a strip of ribbon or shell fabric material 1” wide, that has been stitched and folded, so that there are no raw edges. This reinforcement strip is to be set approximately 2” down from the top of the pocket, to be caught in the double stitching of the flap setting stitches and extend up be caught in the joining seam at the shoulder. There shall be a sewn-on badge tab finished measures of 1-3/8" tall x 7/8" wide with 1/4" 'tunnel' open for badge pin to slide through, placed 1 1/4" up from top edge of flap. Two (2) box stitches to sew onto chest through ribbon sling and a horizontal bar-tack at each corner.

EPAULETS/ SHOULDER STRAP:

Shall measure 1-3/4" wide at the shoulders and 1-1/2" wide at the point with the ends clean finished into armhole seam. They are constructed of 2 ply contrast color fabric and 2 ply fuse-n-tac interlining, finished with double needle top-stitching 1/16” & 1/4” from the edge. The epaulet is centered over shoulder seam, and set with point 1" from finished neckline seam; stitched to shirt along both edges of point forming the "V" and a 2-1/4” length “X” stitching at shoulder. A vertical oriented, partial slit buttonhole is stitched to each epaulet 3/8" from point.

BACK YOKE:

One-piece back yoke fully lined with matching Nylon Sateen of Dacron 100% Polyester. The yoke is to measure approximately 4-1/4” high at the center back. The yoke shall be double needle top-stitched to the back to prevent rolling of the yoke seam.

PERMANENT MILITARY CREASES:

There will be five (5) permanent 1/16” military style stitched-in creases. One (1) crease in each front extends from hem to shoulder joining seam. Front pockets and flaps to be centered over the crease. Crease is not to run through pocket of flap. Three (3) vertical creases in back starting at the bottom of the yoke, middle crease on center back line, side creases spaced equally from center crease.

CUSTOMIZATION:

Agency patches/ emblems will be sewn onto each (left & right) sleeve at customer specified location, applied by dealer.

THREAD:

All thread shall be polyester wrapped on monofilament polyester. Color to match.

STITCHING:

All stitching conforms to Federal Standard 751 specifications (FED-STD-751). All stitch types are sewn at stitch per inch (S.P.I.) rates individually set by operation at no less than 10 S.P.I. and not more than 12 S.P.I. to insure extended sewn wear life. All thread tension is evenly maintained to eliminate right or loose stitching. All seam allowances are to be maintained so that there are no raw edges, run offs, twist, pleats, puckers or open seams.

SIZES:

Permanent size marking giving size to be located inside of collar.

CARE LABEL:

Care instructions to be on hem of shirt in front.

PRESSING & FINISHING:

Shirt shall be carefully pressed by hand in a first class manner. All loose threads to be thoroughly trimmed.

STANDARD SIZE RANGE:

Men's: XS-3XL, Regular and Tall lengths Women's: XS-2XL, Regular and Tall lengths

MEASUREMENTS:

Men's: Size Medium, Regular

a. Neck: 16.75” (plus or minus 0.5 inches)

b. 1/2 Chest: 23” (plus or minus 0.75 inches)

c. Back Length: 32.5”(plus or minus 0.5 inches)

Women's: Size 36, Regular

a. Neck 17.25” (plus or minus 0.5 inches)

b. 1/2 Chest: 20.5” (plus or minus 0.75 inches)

c. Back Length: 28” (plus or minus 0.5 inches)

FABRIC- SHELL & CONTRAST:

GENERAL:

Comment by Field, Veronica (DES): WSP - This isn't a description of the shirt. maybe it should be part of the solicitation? Just don't think it fits here. Is this something you see as necessary?

All garment details not specifically described herein; tailoring, styling, construction, materials, and components must match the standard reference sample on file with the agency. Written specifications attempt to describe key requirements of a 3D garment and cannot do so adequately and therefore silence of the specifications does not absolve bidders from matching with precision the standard reference sample.

Pre-bid samples will be required at the time of the bid opening. Samples may be subjected to laboratory testing at the discretion of the contracting officer. Bidders are responsible for all testing costs of their sample garments.

Bidders must enclose evidence (dated manufacturers catalogs or similar) that this item is currently a commercial in-stock style. The successful bidder will provide a full size run of try-on garments within 10 days for agency approval.

Garments must be manufactured to ISO 9001 quality assurance standard. A copy of the certificate registration will be required with the bid. Comment by Field, Veronica (DES) [2]: WSP - Do we want to add this to the bid submittal list?

If we add it there, we can delete it from the specification sheets.

Specification based on Men Size Medium, Regular length.

FABRIC:

Content – 75% Polyester 25% Worsted wool plain weave. Machine washable and dry cleanable polyester provides user comfort, uniform appearance, durability, and easy care. Wicking finish for quick drying comfort and anti-odor treatment.

Weight – 6.10-6.40 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Ply of yarn – 2-ply Warp, Single ply filling

· Construction – 47 ends per inch, 43 picks per inch

· Breaking Strength –

· ≥ 120 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 90 lbs in Filling

· Tear Strength –

· ≥ 12 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 10 lbs in Filling

· Minimum Filling Stretch – 10%

· Fiber Length – Worsted Wool: 3-3.5 inches average minimum; Polyester: 3 inches minimum

WAFFLE KNIT FABRIC:

Content – 100% Polyester waffle knit Weight – 5 oz. per square yard Physical Properties:

· Pilling Resistance (Face) – 5

· Bursting Strength, min (psi) – 100+ Colorfastness:

· Excellent color fastness to washing. Machine washable and dry cleanable.

MESH LINING FABRIC:

Content – 100% Polyester. Dimensional stability, colorfastness, anti-microbial, anti-abrasion, and wicking.

Weight – 3.20 oz. per square yard (+/- 5%) Courses per inch – 33 +/- 2 Wales per inch – 40 +/- 3

TOP FUSING:

The following small parts shall be top fused prior to sewing: placket and collar.

GENERAL DESIGN:

This is a short sleeve pullover shirt with a 2-button center front placket having a mic tab is at the bottom of the placket and a banded collar. Construction is in a woven/knit fabric combination with underarm panels and sleeve gusset.

COLLAR:

Points medium spread are to be 2-3/4” in length. Permanent stays 2-1/2” in length and 1/4” wide, to be sewn inside collars at front edge. Collar shall be sport style with shaped points and 1 ply polyester taffeta banana band. Collar shall be top fused and lay flat.

SLEEVES:

Are a straight style, in one piece with underarm gusset panel of knit fabric and hemmed below the bicep. The sleeve hem shall be top stitched to prevent rolling. Sleeve hem shall be 1” wide double bend back with single needle stitch through and a 1/16” edgestitch. A silicone crease will be applied down the center of the sleeve.

FRONT (PLACKET):

The front shall have a placket measuring 1-1/2” wide and 6-1/2” long, extending to the top of the front yoke finished with 1/4” topstitching. This front placket shall be top fused to give body. The buttonholes on the center front shall be placed 3/4” from the edge. First button set 2-5/8" below neckline seam (to center of button); buttonhole shall be vertical. Second button set 2-1/4” below first button (to center of button); buttonhole shall be vertical. Pencil pocket shall be placed 3/8” above the yoke seam on wearer’s left. A single 1/2” welt design shall be sewn with pocket bag and stitched divider to create 2 placement spaces. (note: there is not a pencil pocket on the chest front for women version)

MIC TAB:

The tab with finished measures of 7/8" H x 1-3/4" L shall be made from 1 ply (woven) of shell fabric. It shall be clean finished with edge stitching around and placed evenly over CF Placket with bottom edge of tab to line up to yoke joining seam. Single needle stitch tab down with safety tacked for both ends.

FRONT YOKE:

Two-piece front yoke fully lined with mesh lining finished with 1/4” single needle topstitching. The yoke is to measure approximately 7” high at armhole.

BACK YOKE:

One-piece back yoke fully lined with mesh lining finished with 1/4” double needle topstitching. The yoke is to measure approximately 5-1/4” high at the center back.

FRONT AND BACK PANELS:

Bottom section of front and back panels shall consist of waffle knit shell fabric. There shall be 1 ply shell fabric armhole patches clean finished into armhole and side seams to prevent peak through of waffle knit. Inner edges of patches shall have 1/16" edge stitching.

HEM:

The hem shall be 3/4" with double needle cover-stitch.

CUSTOMIZATION:

Agency patches/ emblems will be sewn onto each (left & right) sleeve at customer specified location, applied by dealer.

THREAD:

All thread shall be polyester wrapped on monofilament polyester. Color to match.

STITCHING:

All stitching conforms to Federal Standard 751 specifications (FED-STD-751). All stitch types are sewn at stitch per inch (S.P.I.) rates individually set by operation at no less than 10 S.P.I. and not more than 12 S.P.I. to insure extended sewn wear life. All thread tension is evenly maintained to eliminate right or loose stitching. All seam allowances are to be maintained so that there are no raw edges, run offs, twist, pleats, puckers or open seams.

SIZES:

Permanent size marking giving neck size to be located inside of collar.

CARE LABEL:

Care instructions to be on hem of shirt in front.

PRESSING & FINISHING:

Shirt shall be carefully pressed by hand in a first class manner. All loose threads to be thoroughly trimmed.

STANDARD SIZE RANGE:

Men's: S-5XL, Short, Regular, Tall and X-Tall Women's: XS-2XL, Short, Regular, Tall, and X-Tall

MEASUREMENTS

Women's: Regular Length: Size M

GENERAL:

All garment details not specifically described herein; tailoring, styling, construction, materials, and components must match the standard reference sample on file with the agency. Written specifications attempt to describe key requirements of a 3D garment and cannot do so adequately and therefore silence of the specifications does not absolve bidders from matching with precision the standard reference sample. Comment by Field, Veronica (DES) [2]: WSP - This isn't a description of the shirt. maybe it should be part of the solicitation? Just don't think it fits here. Is this something you see as necessary?

Pre-bid samples will be required at the time of the bid opening. Samples may be subjected to laboratory testing at the discretion of the contracting officer. Bidders are responsible for all testing costs of their sample garments.

Bidders must enclose evidence (dated manufacturers catalogs or similar) that this item is currently a commercial in-stock style. The successful bidder will provide a full size run of try-on garments within 10 days for agency approval.

Garments must be manufactured to ISO 9001 quality assurance standard. A copy of the certificate registration will be required with the bid. Comment by Field, Veronica (DES) [2]: WSP - Do we want to add this to the bid submittal list?

Specification based on Men’s Size Medium, Regular length.

Content – 75% Polyester 25% Worsted wool plain weave. Machine washable and dry cleanable polyester provides user comfort, uniform appearance, durability, and easy care. Wicking finish for quick drying comfort and anti-odor treatment.

Weight – 6.10-6.40 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Ply of yarn – 2-ply Warp, Single ply filling

· Construction – 47 ends per inch, 43 picks per inch

· Breaking Strength –

· ≥ 120 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 90 lbs in Filling

· Tear Strength –

· ≥ 12 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 10 lbs in Filling

· Minimum Filling Stretch – 10%

· Fiber Length – Worsted Wool: 3-3.5 inches average minimum; Polyester: 3 inches minimum

WAFFLE KNIT FABRIC: Dyed to match shell fabric Content – 100% Polyester waffle knit Weight – 5 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Pilling Resistance (Face) – 5

· Bursting Strength, min (psi) – 100+

Colorfastness:

· Excellent color fastness to washing. Machine washable and dry cleanable.

MESH LINING FABRIC:

Content – 100% Polyester. Dimensional stability, colorfastness, anti-microbial, anti-abrasion, and wicking.

Weight – 3.20 oz. per square yard (+/- 5%) Courses per inch – 33 +/- 2 Wales per inch – 40 +/- 3

TOP FUSING:

The following small parts shall be top fused prior to sewing: plackets, cuffs, and collar.

GENERAL DESIGN:

This is a long sleeve pullover shirt with a 3-button center front placket having a mic tab is at the bottom of the placket and a banded collar. Construction is in a woven/knit fabric combination with underarm panels and sleeve gusset. There is also contrast color, 2-button cuffs with custom banjo elbow detail placket.

COLLAR:

Points medium spread are to be 3-1/4” in length and back of the stand to measure 1-3/8”. Permanent stays measuring 2-1/2” in length and 1/4” wide, are to be placed inside the collar layers and sewn in permanent place through topstitching at the front collar edge. The stand shall fasten with one (1) button and the inner stand is to be lined with matching 100% Polyester inner lining, cut on the bias, to assure that the collar will lie properly. Collar shall be top fused.

SLEEVES:

Are a straight style, in one piece with underarm gusset panel of knit fabric. The square edge cuffs in contrast color fabric are 3” in width, and fasten with two customer applied metal buttons with toggle. Partial-slit buttonholes for the metal button/toggle are spaced 1-1/8” center-to-center with additionally 2 fully slit buttonholes for the working buttons and an underneath cuff strip to protect the wearer from abrasion of the metal button/toggle. Cuffs are to be top fused and fully lined to give body by sewing in a self-fabric inner lining, cut straight to retain its shape. A shaped banjo elbow of 1-ply shell fabric has a vent placket of 2-1/4” wide finished with 1/4” double-needle topstitching around edges. The sleeve seam, as well as the sleeve setting seam (i.e. securing it to be body of the shirt) must be made by a narrow safety stitch, so as to properly strengthen the seam, as well as prevent the fabric from raveling. A silicone crease will be applied down the center of the sleeve.

FRONT (PLACKET):

The front shall have a placket measuring 1-1/2” wide and 6-1/2” long, extending to the top of the front yoke finished with 1/4” topstitching. This front placket shall be top fused to give body. The buttonholes on the center front shall be placed 3/4” from the edge. First button centered on collar stand and 3/8" below neck seam; buttonhole shall be horizontal. Second button set 2-1/4" below neckline seam (to center of button); buttonhole shall be vertical. Third button set 2-1/4” below second button (to center of button); buttonhole shall be vertical. Pencil pocket shall be placed 3/8” above the yoke seam on wearer’s left. A single 1/2” welt design shall be sewn with pocket bag and stitched divider to create 2 placement spaces. (note: there is not a pencil pocket on the chest front for women version)

MIC TAB:

The tab with finished measures of 7/8" H x 1-3/4" L shall be made from 1 ply (woven) of shell fabric. It shall be clean finished with edge stitching around and placed evenly over CF Placket with bottom edge of tab to line up to yoke joining seam. Single needle stitch tab down with safety tacked for both ends.

FRONT YOKE:

Two-piece front yoke fully lined with mesh lining finished with 1/4” single needle topstitching (due to front pencil pocket detail). The yoke is to measure approximately 7” high at armhole.

BACK YOKE:

One-piece back yoke fully lined with mesh lining finished with 1/4” double needle topstitching. The yoke is to measure approximately 5-1/4” high at the center back.

FRONT AND BACK PANELS:

Bottom section of front and back panels shall consist of waffle knit shell fabric. There shall be 1 ply shell fabric armhole patches clean finished into armhole and side seams to prevent peak through of waffle knit. Inner edges of patches shall have 1/16" edge stitching.

HEM:

The hem shall be 3/4" with double needle coverstitch.

CUSTOMIZATION:

Agency patches/ emblems will be sewn onto each (left & right) sleeve at customer specified location, applied by dealer.

THREAD:

All thread shall be polyester wrapped on monofilament polyester. Color to match.

STITCHING:

All stitching conforms to Federal Standard 751 specifications (FED-STD-751). All stitch types are sewn at stitch per inch (S.P.I.) rates individually set by operation at no less than 10 S.P.I. and not more than 12 S.P.I. to insure extended sewn wear life. All thread tension is evenly maintained to eliminate right or loose stitching. All seam allowances are to be maintained so that there are no raw edges, run offs, twist, pleats, puckers or open seams.

SIZES:

Permanent size marking giving neck size to be located inside of collar.

CARE LABEL:

Care instructions to be on hem of shirt in front.

PRESSING & FINISHING:

Shirt shall be carefully pressed by hand in a first class manner. All loose threads to be thoroughly trimmed.

STANDARD SIZE RANGE:

Men's: S-5XL, Lengths 31-39 Women's: XS-2XL, Short, Regular, and Tall

MEASUREMENTS:

Women's: Regular Length; Size M

GENERAL:

All garment details not specifically described herein; tailoring, styling, construction, materials, and components must match the standard reference sample on file with the agency. Written specifications attempt to describe key requirements of a 3D garment and cannot do so adequately and therefore silence of the specifications does not absolve bidders from matching with precision the standard reference sample. Comment by Field, Veronica (DES) [2]: WSP - This isn't a description of the shirt. maybe it should be part of the solicitation? Just don't think it fits here. Is this something you see as necessary?

Pre-bid samples will be required at the time of the bid opening. Samples may be subjected to laboratory testing at the discretion of the contracting officer. Bidders are responsible for all testing costs of their sample garments.

Bidders must enclose evidence (dated manufacturers catalogs or similar) that this item is currently a commercial in-stock style. The successful bidder will provide a full size run of try-on garments within 10 days for agency approval.

Garments must be manufactured to ISO 9001 quality assurance standard. A copy of the certificate registration will be required with the bid. Comment by Field, Veronica (DES) [2]: WSP - Do we want to add this to the bid submittal list?

Specification based on Unisex Size Medium, Regular length.

Content – 75% Polyester /25% Worsted wool plain weave. Machine washable and dry cleanable polyester provides user comfort, uniform appearance, durability, and easy care.

Weight – 6.10-6.40 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Ply of yarn – 2-ply Warp, Single ply filling

· Construction – 47 ends per inch, 43 picks per inch

· Breaking Strength –

· ≥ 120 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 90 lbs in Filling

· Tear Strength –

· ≥ 12 lbs in Warp

· ≥ 10 lbs in Filling

· Minimum Filling Stretch – 10%

· Fiber Length – Worsted Wool: 3-3.5 inches average minimum; Polyester: 3 inches minimum

SIDE KNIT FABRIC:

Content – 92% Nylon 8% Lycra mesh technical knit with high abrasion, pill resistance and anti-microbial finish. Breathable, 4 way stretch.

Weight – 6 oz. per square yard

Physical Properties:

· Pilling Resistance (Face) – 5

· Stretch (elongation) – 105 x 170

· Bursting Strength, min (psi) – 100

Colorfastness:

· Laundering shade change, min – 4

· 2A washes fastness – 4

· Dry/Wet Crocking – 4

MESH LINING FABRIC:

Content – 100% Polyester. Dimensional stability, colorfastness, anti-microbial, anti-abrasion, and wicking.

Weight – 3.20 oz. per square yard (+/- 5%) Courses per inch – 33 +/- 2 Wales per inch – 40 +/- 3

FUSIBLE:

Epaulets/Pocket Flaps:

· Substrate – Thermal Polyester/Non Woven

· Content – 100% Polyester

· Total Weight – 1.55 oz/sq. yard

· Coating Type – Thermo Plastic Front, Back Panels, Side Front, and Yoke:

· Substrate – 64x56 Woven

· Content – 100% Cotton Print Cloth

· Total Weight – 3.20 oz/sq. yard

· Coating Type – High Density Thermo Dot

TOP FUSING: The following parts shall be top fused prior to sewing. Front panel, back panel, side front panels, plackets, back yoke, pocket flaps, and epaulets.

FRONT:

The front shall have a non-functional placket measuring 1-1/2” wide, extending to the hem and be made of the same material as the shirt fabric with two rows of stitching 1” apart and 1/2” from the edge. This placket shall be top fused to give body. All buttonholes shall be horizontally oriented with the first buttonhole sewn 1" below top edge of placket (to center of buttonhole). Last buttonhole shall be sewn 1-3/4" above hem (to center of buttonhole). Remaining buttonholes shall be spaced evenly apart. Neckline should be clean finished and measures a width of 7-1/4” for size Medium. Access to Napoleon pocket and Mic pocket shall be underneath the front placket.

FRONT SIDE OPENINGS:

There shall be #8 delrin locking zipper sewn to side of front panels measuring 10” for size Medium, Regular. Zipper shall be hidden by single welt placket zipper construction.

SIDE PANELS:

Two-ply stretch knit mesh side back panels. One-ply shell side front panel, sewn to side back mesh panel and a front zipper closure. Back side panel at armhole measures 3-1/4” and the front side panel at armhole measures 2”.

BACK PANELS:

Three (3) creases sewn-in on the back panel.

POCKETS:

Style has two (2) breast pockets, one (1) hidden napoleon pocket, and one (1) hidden Mic pocket.

· Napoleon pocket is on wearer’s left side. 6" Hidden opening under the front placket with closure of stitched 5/8" by 2" strip of loop tape on the underside of the placket, corresponding piece of hook tape stitched on the panel with stitching not visible from the outside. Pocket is clean finish into armhole and side front zipper seams.

· Breast pockets to be topstitched 1/16” from the edge, with mitered corners, to finish 4-3/4” wide by 5-5/8” deep. The left and right breast pockets shall have a pencil compartment 1-1/4” wide. Breast pockets to have 1-1/2” box pleat stitched top and bottom to prevent spreading.

· Mic Pocket is on wearer’s left side with 2” opening set between 1st and 2nd buttonholes. The pocket bag is made of shell fabric and measures 2-1/2” depth.

POCKET FLAPS:

With two (2) mitered shaped flaps in contrasting color, double needle top-stitched 1/16” from the edge completely across, to finish 5” wide and 2-1/2” long. Flaps are secured to the front of the vest with two rows of stitching 3/16” apart. Left and right flaps have a pencil opening corresponding to pencil compartment in the pocket. Flaps are fully lined to give body, by sewing in a 100% Dacron polyester interlining, 425 weight mellowpress, cut straight. There is to be a partial slit buttonhole sewn on the flap.