Attachment 1 Folder 2 AR-MTP-25-211_Jersey Knit 65-35 Tencel Lyocell-Cocona Polyester_1.0_30Jan2026.pdf

PDF 7 MB Posted

Attached to
All-Range Tactical Clothing (ARTC) Request for Information
Solicitation number
W911QY26RARTC
Issued by

About this file

This is a Department of Defense material specification document for a jersey knit fabric intended for use as trim material in the Improved Hot Weather Combat Uniform (IHWCU), specifically for inner knee lining. The specification is designated as Product Code AR-MTP-25-211 and is classified as a Raw Material for the Army with an approved material status for 2025.

The fabric composition is 65% Tencel® Lyocell with 35% Cocona® Polyester lining in a jersey knit construction. Two approved colors are specified: Tan (Color 499, Roll No. 3947) and Coyote (Color 476/498), with detailed L-A-B color values provided for both style and shade applications. The fabric weight requirement is 4.80 to 5.30 ounces per square yard, with minimum defect standards established for Type V Knits. For government procurements, cloth must be furnished in continuous lengths of not less than 50 yards per roll, with face identification stamping and fiber content labeling per Title 16 CFR 303. The finished material shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and must be equal to or better than the standard sample for all characteristics. Material testing requirements include fiber identification per AATCC TM20A, weight testing per ASTM D3776/D3776M, toxicity assessment for prolonged skin contact, and visual weave inspection. The document specifies 15 major defect categories and 13 minor defect categories that will be examined and scored, including holes, tears, color mismatches, dye penetration issues, and odor defects. Acquisition requirements include specification of classes, sizes, lengths, NSNs, Acceptance Quality Limits (AQLs), first article sampling criteria, conformance inspection criteria, and yard-by-yard examination protocols where applicable.

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Department of Defense Clothing and Textiles

Product Code AR-MTP-25-211

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

General Statements - Scope Category Description Statements

Classification Material General Statement The fabric(s) shall be of the following types, classes and styles as specified in the contract..

Scope

Page 1 of 12/3/2026

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Shade Color Roll No L A B Substrate Status Comments

499 | Tan | 3947 47.3 0.93 12.85

100% Polyester;

T-Shirt, Moisture-Wickin g, Army;

A-A-59791

(now Rev A)

Active Alternative is the SAE color chip # 20180

476/498 | Coyote | 0 0 0

Print Colors if Applicable Color Color L A B Comments

Style Colors Color Swatch L A B Comments

499 | Tan | 51.82 1.37 12.48

476/498 | Coyote | 45.44 4.66 15.18

Colors

General Statements - Colors Category Description Statements

General Statement - Colors Material The fabric(s) shall be in the following color(s) as specified in the contract.

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

General Statements - Material Construction GS Tab Category Description Detail Statements

Construction Workmanship Material General Statement General Statement The finished material shall be uniform, and the occurrence of defects, shall not exceed the established Acceptance Quality Limits (AQL) in the contract and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

Material Construction

Yarn Ply

Yarn Details

Fiber Percentage Yarn 1 Yarn 65 Tencel

35 Polyester

Total Composition A

Fiber Percentage Yarn 2 Yarn

Total Composition B

Fiber/Yarn/Additional Details 65% Tencel ® Lyocell 35% Cocona® Polyester

Woven Information

Weave Type

Warp Count

Weft Count

Shinkage Length 0

UOM

Knit Information

Knit Type Jersey

Gauge

Wales

Courses

General Information

Fabric Weight 4.80-5.30

UOM Oz/yd2|Ounces per square yard

Width 0

UOM

Thickness (inches)

Page 1 of 22/3/2026

Additional Construction Details Image Description

Appearance/Hand Shirinkage Width 0

UOM

Page 2 of 22/3/2026

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Style Status

Platform

Environment

End Use

Gender

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

General Statements - Inspection Methods Category Description Detail Statements

General Statements - Conformance Category Description Detail Statements

Quality

General Statements - First Article Category Description Detail Statements

Additional Quality General Statements Category Description Detail Statement

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

General Statements - Inspection Methods Category Description Detail Statements

General Statements - Conformance Category Description Detail Statements

Quality

General Statements - First Article Category Description Detail Statements

Additional Quality General Statements Category Description Detail Statement

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Material Properties Color

Color Characteristic Characteristic and Additional Details UOM Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

Material Properties

Characteristic Characteristic Additional Detail UOM Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

Fiber Identification %|Percentage 65% Tencel ® Lyocell/ 35% Cocona® Polyester

American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC TM20A|Fiber Analysis:

Quantitative|3363|

Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and acceptable for the stated requirement.

2 Weave Jersey Visual

Weight Oz/yd2|Ounces per square yard Minimum 4.80 ASTM International ASTM D3776 / D3776M|Standard Test

Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric|3363|

Option C

Weight Oz/yd2|Ounces per square yard Maximum 5.30 ASTM International ASTM D3776 / D3776M|Standard Test

Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric|3363|

Option C

Toxicity The finished material shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

Toxicity test. When required, an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted.

When the results of these studies indicate the finished trousers is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure. If the toxicity requirement can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required.

Material Properties and Testing

General Statements - MATERIAL PROPERTIES AND TESTING Gs Tab Category Description Detail Statements

Material Properties and Testing

Material Standard Samples General Statement The finished material shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

Additional Material Properties and Testing

Characteristic Characteristic Additional Detail

Unit Of Measure Min/Max Requirements Source Test method Test Method Options

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Internal Test Procedures

Material Internal Test Procedures Source Test Method Test method options Test method description

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Defects Material Material Type Defect Type Defect Additional Detail Measurements Major Minor

1 Woven Type V - Knits Any hole, cut, tear, abrasion mark. þ ¨

2 Woven Type V - Knits Edge ravels when pulled outward. þ ¨

3 Woven Type V - Knits Broken or missing yarn. þ ¨

4 Woven Type V - Knits Any spot, stain or streak more than 1-inch in combined directions. þ ¨

5 Woven Type V - Knits Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C for dress uniforms and D for combat uniforms. ¨ þ

6 Woven Type V - Knits Slubs greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level E for dress uniforms and F for combat uniforms. ¨ þ

7 Woven Type V - Knits Color not a good match to reference. þ ¨

Woven Type V - Knits Any area of poor dye penetration, streak or shade bar that is

9-inches or less. Defective shade areas that are greater than 9-inches constitute a failure (when applicable).

þ ¨

9 Woven Type V - Knits Width not as specified within a tolerance of less than 1/2-inch. ¨ þ

10 Woven Type V - Knits Objectionable odor. þ ¨

11 Woven Type V - Knits Slack or tight selvages. þ ¨

12 Woven Type V - Knits Any embedded foreign matter or uncleanness. þ ¨

13 Woven Type V - Knits Edges rolled folded, creases, scalloped or corded, baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth. þ ¨

14 Woven Type V - Knits Tackiness (sticky to touch). þ ¨

15 Woven Type V - Knits Any hole, cut, tear, abrasion mark. þ ¨

Defects

General Statements- Defects Category Description Detail Statement

1 Quality Material General Statement General Statement The finished material shall be examined and scored for the defects listed.

Page 1 of 22/3/2026

Defects Material Material Type Defect Type Defect Additional Detail Measurements Major Minor

16 Woven Type V - Knits Edge ravels when pulled outward. þ ¨

17 Woven Type V - Knits Broken or missing yarn. þ ¨

18 Woven Type V - Knits Any spot, stain or streak more than 1-inch in combined directions. þ ¨

19 Woven Type V - Knits Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level C for dress uniforms and D for combat uniforms. ¨ þ

20 Woven Type V - Knits Slubs greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level E for dress uniforms and F for combat uniforms. ¨ þ

21 Woven Type V - Knits Color not a good match to reference. þ ¨

Woven Type V - Knits Any area of poor dye penetration, streak or shade bar that is

9-inches or less. Defective shade areas that are greater than 9-inches constitute a failure (when applicable).

þ ¨

23 Woven Type V - Knits Width not as specified within a tolerance of less than 1/2-inch. ¨ þ

24 Woven Type V - Knits Objectionable odor. þ ¨

25 Woven Type V - Knits Slack or tight selvages. þ ¨

26 Woven Type V - Knits Any embedded foreign matter or uncleanness. þ ¨

27 Woven Type V - Knits Edges rolled folded, creases, scalloped or corded, baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth. þ ¨

28 Woven Type V - Knits Tackiness (sticky to touch). þ ¨

Additional Defects Part NOS Defect Major Minor

Page 2 of 22/3/2026

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Additional Packaging Details No Description

Packaging

General Statements- Packaging Category Description Detail Statement

1 General Statement - Packaging

General Preservation, packing and marking shall be as specified in the contract.

2 Length and put-up Material General Statement General Statement For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified in the contract, the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards, and each length shall be put-up on a roll

3 Roll Identification - Face Material General Statement General Statement he face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping the face side with the word “FACE” at each end of the roll.

4 Roll Identification - Fiber Material General Statement General Statement Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with Title 16 CFR 303

5 Width Material General Statement General Statement For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified, the width of the finished cloth shall be as specified and shall be the minimum acceptable width exclusive of the selvage

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Additional General Statements Category Description Detail Statement

General Statements

General Statements Category Description Detail Statement

1 Comments, Suggestions or Questions

Combat Capabilities Development Command Soldier Center (CCDC SC)

Comment, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM-Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PEC, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick MA 01760-5019.

2 Distribution Statement A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

Distribution Statement The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4 and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

4 Government specifications, standards, and handbooks

General Statement The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

5 Non Government Publications

American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorists

(AATCC)

Document Source Copies of these documents are available online at https://aatcc.org

6 Non Government Publications

American Society for Quality (ASQ) Document Source Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org

7 Non Government Publications

ASTM International Document Source Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.astm.org.

Order of Precedence General Statement Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

Other Government documents, drawings and publications

Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) Document Source Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.ecfr.gov

10 Non Government Publications

SDL Atlas Part Number 402985 – Slub/Knot Replica Set (Replica set is available for purchase from SDL Atlas Customer Service, 1-803-329-2110).

11 Figures General Statement Disclaimer When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern.

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Notes Grid

Notes and Concluding Material

General Statements - Notes Category Description Detail Statement

1 Acquisition Requirements General Statement Acquisition documents should specify the following acquisition requirements. See below:

Activities General Statement The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

Associated Data Item Descriptions (DIDs)

General Statement This specification has been assigned an Acquisition Management Systems Control (AMSC) number authorizing it as the source document for the following DIDs. When it is necessary to obtain the data, the applicable DIDs must be listed on the Contract Data Requirements List (DD Form 1423). **

4 Certificate of Compliance General Statement Certificates of compliance may be accepted for selected requirements. It is recommended that vendors verify acceptability prior to using certificates of compliance to address requirements.

5 Changes From Previous Issue

General Statement Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

Concluding Material General Statement The activities listed were interested in this item as of the date of publication. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

First Article Inspection - Notes

General Statement When first article inspection is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product that has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or test, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

8 General Statement - Notes General Statement This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory

Information Requests Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) Troop Support General Statement For access to information such as specifications, drawings, and standard shade samples of cloth, go to https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx for DLA’s Troop Support’s Clothing and Textile Specification/Pattern/Drawing request form. Complete the request form and then submit the form.

Request to use equivalent materials or components should be sent to the contracting officer for approval by the military service.

10 Key words General Statement A list of key words for description of the item have been provided. Keywords provided are for references purposes only.

11 NSN General Statement NSN's provided are for informational purposes only.

Visual Shade Matching General Statement In 2017, Option A of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles was changed to Option C. NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35 (± 5° ) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90° angle, relative to the plane of the specimens”.

Page 1 of 32/3/2026

Known Sources Material Product Code Vendor Material Name Comments

Known Sources Others Other Component Vendor Comments

Acquisition Requirement No Acquisition Type Acquisition Requirements

1 01 Scope Title, number, and date of this specification

2 02 Scope Classes, sizes, and lengths required

3 03 Scope National stock numbers (NSNs)

4 04 Quality AQLs

5 05 Quality Length, width and put up required

6 06 Quality When first article is required

7 07 Quality First article sampling and acceptance criteria, including sample size and sample unit

8 08 Quality Conformance inspection criteria

9 09 Quality Yard by Yard Examination

Additional Notes Grid Acquisition Requirement No Acquisition Type Acquisition Requirements

1 01 When toxicity is required

Page 2 of 32/3/2026

Description Jersey Knit, 65/35 Tencel Lyocell/ Cocona Polyester lining

Legacy Reference GL-PD-15-05 (end-item PD)

Material Status Approved

Print/Solid

Material Type Knit

Defect Type Type V - Knits

Year 2025

Enterprise DoD | 01

Service AR | Army

Category RM | Raw Material

Sub Category Material |

Size Range zRM - Rolled Goods |

Item Details Intended End Use Trim material in IHWCU for inner knee lining

Keyword listing Hot Weather Combat Uniform Jungle Knit Jersey Tencel ® Lyocell Cocona® Polyester lining knee

Comments

NSN

Base Size

Additional Notes

Concluding Material Project Number Preparing Activity

Review Activities Review Activities

Civilian Agencies Civilian Agencies

Custodian Custodian

Page 3 of 32/3/2026

File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .