05719 Exhibit B2 Specifications Cat 2.docx

EXHIBIT B-1 – CUSTOM UNIFORMS SPECIFICATIONS CATEGORY 2

This Exhibit provides the detailed specifications of all products to be offered under the awarded Master Contract. Bidders must indicate, in their response to Exhibit C-1 if they are bidding the Standard of Quality item (listed here) or an equal or better alternative.

The State is looking to find the best value. Bidders should bid items that can meet the specifications detailed below. Enterprise Services is not limiting bidders to the Standard of Quality (SOQ) item and is open to accepting other manufacturers as long as the specifications are equal or better. If Bidders can offer more than one manufacturer, Bidders may submit more than one bid, providing additional options for the State to evaluate.

FABRIC:

Content: 55% Dacron Polyester / 45% Wool Weight: 11.5 to 12.0 oz. / linear yard Color: Light Grey Raeford style 521; color 585

STYLE:

Dress style, top center placket front, full cut tapered fit, Freedom collar, long sleeves with square cuffs, and dress shirttail. Two pleated breast pockets with topstitched mitered flaps. Topstitched shoulder straps. Matching inside yoke and band of high luster Poly Twill. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.

Dress style, top center placket front, full cut tapered fit, Freedom collar, long sleeves with square cuffs, and dress shirttail. Two pleated breast pockets with topstitched mitered flaps. Topstitched shoulder straps. Matching inside yoke and band of high luster Poly Twill. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.

COLLAR & STAND:

Collar points to measure 2-7/8” long with ultrasonically fused-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of #285 Stabilized Mello-Press. Stays to be 2 1/2” long, 3/8” minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar height at rear 1-1/2". Collar topstitched ¼” off the edge. Collar stand to measure 1-5/16" at rear and band to be interlined with "Crease-N- Tack." Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining.

FREEDOM COLLAR FEATURE:

Material consisting of self-goods and lining material forming the neckband and the collar must be arranged with the weave thereof on a bias so that it is stretchable in the direction parallel to the circumferential direction of the collar. This expandable collar will allow for slight variations in neck size and make it easier to button because of the stretch or yield of the material.

FRONT:

The right front shall have a top center placket 1 ½” wide with two double rows of stitching. The shirt will have five (5) horizontal buttonhole eyelets with four (4) tacks between eyelets in place of the first five (5) buttons on the shirtfront. There shall be two (2) functional buttons with the fifth button sewn over the fifth eyelet with two replacement buttons sewn on bottom tail; spacing between each will be 3 ½” except the spacing between the neck button and the first buttonhole eyelet on the front, which will be approximately 3 ¼”. Top center placket to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press. Non-woven interlining unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a 1/4” double needle stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable.

SHOULDER STRAPS:

Black Shoulder straps to be two-piece pointed, 1/4" double needle topstitched and to be set on yoke with leading topstitch conforming with front joining seam. To measure approximately 2" at sleeve tapering to 1-3/8" and set not more than 1/2" from collar set seam. Cross stitched approximately 2" from sleeve seam. Shoulder strap to have functional buttonhole to align to the eyelet on shoulder of shirt. The point of each shoulder strap shall be tacked to the shoulder of the shirt. Edge stitched shoulder strap construction unacceptable.

BADGE REINFORCEMENT:

Two-ply sling approximately 1” wide centered over left pocket and stitched to shoulder seam and flap setting stitch on the inside of the left front. An exterior badge patch to finish approximately 1-1/2” deep with a ¼” wide tunnel centered on the badge tab and spaced 1” above the top of the left pocket flap.

POCKETS:

Two breast patch pockets with mitered corners and 1-1/4" stitched pleats. Pleats shall be stitched top and bottom and full length of pleat to prevent spreading. Pocket to measure 5" wide, 6-1/4" deep. Breast pockets are set to shirtfront with ¼” double needle stitching. Left breast pocket to have 1- 1/4" pencil stitch. Each pocket shall have a well-sewn buttonhole eyelet centered on the pocket to align with the buttonhole in the pocket flap.

FLAPS:

Black Pocket Flaps to be two-piece mitered design to measure 5-1/4" across and 2-1/8" in depth at center, 1-1/2" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8” above pocket. Each flap to have invisible pencil opening 1-1/4" to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. (Stop & start stitching for pencil opening unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.) Flaps to be 1/4" double needle topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Each flap shall have a buttonhole centered on the flap to align with the buttonhole eyelet on the pocket.

SLEEVES:

To be long sleeves with approximate 3 1/2" sleeve vent. Sleeve shall have a one-piece, elbow reinforcement and vent facing. Elbow reinforcement shall extend into the sleeve-closing seam and to be set to sleeve with ¼” double needle stitching.

CUFFS:

Black Cuffs to be two piece ½-inch hemmed cuff with ¼” double needle topstitching. Square cuffs to measure 2 1/2" in depth. Cuffs to have two buttonhole eyelets and corresponding buttonholes set vertically on the cuff. Cuff to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press.

BUTTONS:

First grade 21-ligne 4 hole pearlescent.

SEWING:

Shoulder Straps, cuffs, pockets and pocket flaps are ¼” double needle topstitched, including yoke. Collar is single topstitched ¼” off the edge. Side close felling seams and sleeve inserting are also ¼” double needle.

THREAD:

All sewing threads to be color fast polyester wrap to match.

INTERLININGS:

Collar shall be interlined with #285 Stabilized MelloPress. Cuffs, pocket flaps, shoulder straps and top center to be interlined with #550 Stabilized MelloPress. Collar band interlining to be Crease-N-Tack.

CONVERTABILITY:

This garment shall be designed to accommodate removable metal buttons having eyelets on the shoulder, cuffs and button front. Each pocket shall have a horizontal eyelet. Protective pieces shall be sewn on the inside of the garment on the shoulders, cuffs and on the inside of the right front.

CONSTRUCTION:

Collar, flaps, straps and cuffs are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched.

FABRIC:

Content: 55% Dacron Polyester / 45% Wool Weight: 11.5 to 12.0 oz. / linear yard Color: Light Grey Raeford style 521; color 585

STYLE:

Dress style, top center placket front, full cut tapered fit, Freedom collar, long sleeves with square cuffs, and dress shirttail. Two pleated breast pockets with topstitched mitered flaps. Topstitched shoulder straps. Matching inside yoke and band of high luster Poly Twill. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.

COLLAR & STAND:

Collar points to measure 3” long with ultrasonically fused-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of #285 Stabilized Mello-Press. Stays to be 2 3/4” long, 3/8” minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar height at rear 1-1/2". Collar topstitched ¼” off the edge. Collar stand to measure 1-5/16" at rear and band to be interlined with "Crease-N- Tack." Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining.

FREEDOM COLLAR FEATURE:

Material consisting of self-goods and lining material forming the neckband and the collar must be arranged with the weave thereof on a bias so that it is stretchable in the direction parallel to the circumferential direction of the collar. This expandable collar will allow for slight variations in neck size and make it easier to button because of the stretch or yield of the material.

FRONT:

The left front shall have a top center placket 1 ½” wide with two double rows of stitching. The shirt will have five (5) horizontal buttonhole eyelets with four (4) tacks between eyelets in place of the first five (5) buttons on the shirtfront. There shall be two (2) functional buttons with the fifth button sewn over the fifth eyelet with two replacement buttons sewn on bottom tail; spacing between each will be 3 ¾” except the spacing between the neck button and the first buttonhole eyelet on the front, which will be approximately 3 ¼”. Top center placket to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press. Non-woven interlining unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a 1/4” double needle stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable.

Black Shoulder straps to be two-piece pointed, 1/4" double needle topstitched and to be set on yoke with leading topstitch conforming with front joining seam. To measure approximately 2" at sleeve tapering to 1-3/8" and set not more than 1/2" from collar set seam. Cross stitched approximately 2" from sleeve seam. Shoulder strap to have functional buttonhole to align to the eyelet on shoulder of shirt. The point of each shoulder strap shall be tacked to the shoulder of the shirt. Edge stitched shoulder strap construction unacceptable.

Two-ply sling approximately 1” wide centered over left pocket and stitched to shoulder seam and flap setting stitch on the inside of the left front. An exterior badge patch to finish approximately 1-1/2” deep with a ¼” wide tunnel centered on the badge tab and spaced 1” above the top of the left pocket flap.

POCKETS:

Two breast patch pockets with mitered corners and 1-1/2" stitched pleats. Pleats shall be stitched top and bottom and full length of pleat to prevent spreading. Pocket to measure 5-5/8" wide, 6" deep. Breast pockets are set to shirtfront with ¼” double needle stitching. Left breast pocket to have 1- 1/2" pencil stitch. Each pocket shall have a well-sewn buttonhole eyelet centered on the pocket to align with the buttonhole in the pocket flap.

FLAPS:

Black Pocket Flaps to be two-piece mitered design to measure 5-7/8" across and 2-1/2" in depth at center, 1-7/8" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8” above pocket. Each flap to have invisible pencil opening 1-1/2" to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. (Stop & start stitching for pencil opening unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.) Flaps to be 1/4" double needle topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Each flap shall have a buttonhole centered on the flap to align with the buttonhole eyelet on the pocket.

SLEEVES:

To be long sleeves with approximate 4 1/2" sleeve vent. Sleeve shall have a one-piece, elbow reinforcement and vent facing. Elbow reinforcement shall extend into the sleeve-closing seam and to be set to sleeve with ¼” double needle stitching.

CUFFS:

Black Cuffs to be two piece ½-inch hemmed cuff with ¼” double needle topstitching. Square cuffs to measure 3" in depth. Cuffs to have two buttonhole eyelets and corresponding buttonholes set vertically on the cuff. Cuff to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press.

BUTTONS:

First grade 21-ligne 4 hole pearlescent.

SEWING:

Shoulder Straps, cuffs, pockets and pocket flaps are ¼” double needle topstitched, including yoke. Collar is single topstitched ¼” off the edge. Side close felling seams and sleeve inserting are also ¼” double needle.

THREAD:

All sewing threads to be color fast polyester wrap to match.

INTERLININGS:

Collar shall be interlined with #285 Stabilized MelloPress. Cuffs, pocket flaps, shoulder straps and top center to be interlined with #550 Stabilized MelloPress. Collar band interlining to be Crease-N-Tack.

CONVERTABILITY:

This garment shall be designed to accommodate removable metal buttons having eyelets on the shoulder, cuffs and button front. Each pocket shall have a horizontal eyelet. Protective pieces shall be sewn on the inside of the garment on the shoulders, cuffs and on the inside of the right front.

CONSTRUCTION:

Collar, flaps, straps and cuffs are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched.

FABRIC:

Content: 55% Dacron Polyester / 45% Wool Weight: 11.0 to 11.5 oz. / linear yard Color: Light Grey Raeford style 573; color 585

STYLE:

Dress style, plain revere front, full cut tapered fit, open sport collar, short sleeves, and dress shirttail. Two pleated breast pockets with topstitched mitered flaps. Topstitched shoulder straps. Matching inside yoke and banana band of high luster Poly Twill. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.

COLLAR:

Open sport collar shall be one piece. Collar points to measure 3" long with ultrasonically fused-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of #285 Stabilized Mello-Press. Stays to be 2-3/4” long, 3/8” minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar topstitched 1/4” off the edge. Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining. No button or buttonhole at the neck.

FRONT:

To be made with a Sport shirt front with each front having turn back facings approximately 3" in width with ¼” edge-stitching. The shirt will have five (5) horizontal buttonhole eyelets with four (4) tacks between eyelets in place of the first five (5) buttons on the shirtfront. There shall be two (2) functional buttons with the fifth button sewn over the fifth eyelet with two replacement buttons sewn on bottom tail; spacing between each will be 3-3/4" with the first eyelet and buttonhole approximately 3-1/2” down from the neck. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a 1/4” double needle stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable.

Black Shoulder straps to be two-piece pointed, 1/4" double needle topstitched and to be set on yoke with leading topstitch conforming with front joining seam. To measure approximately 2" at sleeve tapering to 1-3/8" and set not more than 1/2" from collar set seam. Cross stitched approximately 2" from sleeve seam. Shoulder strap to have functional buttonhole to align to the eyelet on shoulder of shirt. The point of each shoulder strap shall be tacked to the shoulder of the shirt. Edge stitched shoulder strap construction unacceptable.

Two-ply sling approximately 1” wide centered over left pocket and stitched to shoulder seam and flap setting stitch on the inside of the left front. An exterior badge patch to finish approximately 1-1/2” deep with a ¼” wide tunnel centered on the badge tab and spaced 1” above the top of the left pocket flap.

POCKETS:

Two breast patch pockets with mitered corners and 1-1/2" stitched pleats. Pleats shall be stitched top and bottom and full length of pleat to prevent spreading. Pocket to measure 5-5/8" wide, 6" deep. Breast pockets are set to shirtfront with ¼” double needle stitching. Left breast pocket to have 1- 1/2" pencil stitch. Each pocket shall have a well-sewn buttonhole eyelet centered on the pocket to align with the buttonhole in the pocket flap.

FLAPS:

Black Pocket Flaps to be two-piece mitered design to measure 5-7/8" across and 2-1/2" in depth at center, 1-7/8" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8” above pocket. Each flap to have invisible pencil opening 1-1/2" to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. (Stop & start stitching for pencil opening unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.) Flaps to be 1/4" double needle topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Each flap shall have a buttonhole centered on the flap to align with the buttonhole eyelet on the pocket.

SLEEVES:

Sleeves are to be straight and whole and to be left unhemmed and to finish approximately 13-1/2” long from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the sleeve.

BUTTONS:

First grade 21-ligne 4 hole pearlescent.

SEWING:

Shoulder Straps, pockets and pocket flaps are ¼” double needle topstitched, including yoke. Collar is single topstitched ¼” off the edge. Side close felling seams and sleeve inserting are also ¼” double needle.

THREAD:

All sewing threads to be color fast polyester wrap to match.

INTERLININGS:

Collar shall be interlined with #285 Stabilized MelloPress. Pocket flaps and shoulder straps to be interlined with #550 Stabilized Mello-Press.

CONVERTABILITY:

This garment shall be designed to accommodate removable metal buttons having eyelets on the shoulder and button front. Each pocket shall have a horizontal eyelet. Protective pieces shall be sewn on the inside of the garment on the shoulders and on the inside of the right front.

CONSTRUCTION:

Collar, straps and flaps are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched.

FABRIC:

Content: 55% Dacron Polyester / 45% Wool Weight: 11.0 to 11.5 oz. / linear yard Color: Light Grey Raeford style 573; color 585

STYLE:

Dress style, plain revere front, full cut tapered fit, open sport collar, short sleeves, and dress shirttail. Two pleated breast pockets with topstitched mitered flaps. Topstitched shoulder straps. Matching inside yoke and banana band of high luster Poly Twill. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.

COLLAR:

Open sport collar shall be one piece. Collar points to measure 2-7/8" long with ultrasonically fused-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of #285 Stabilized Mello-Press. Stays to be 2-1/2” long, 3/8” minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar topstitched 1/4” off the edge. Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining. No button or buttonhole at the neck.

FRONT:

To be made with a Sport shirt front with each front having turn back facings approximately 3" in width with ¼” edge-stitching. The shirt will have five (5) horizontal buttonhole eyelets with four (4) tacks between eyelets in place of the first five (5) buttons on the shirtfront. There shall be two (2) functional buttons with the fifth button sewn over the fifth eyelet with two replacement buttons sewn on bottom tail; spacing between each will be 3-1/2" with the first eyelet and buttonhole approximately 3” down from the neck. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a 1/4” double needle stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable.

Black Shoulder straps to be two-piece pointed, 1/4" double needle topstitched and to be set on yoke with leading topstitch conforming with front joining seam. To measure approximately 2" at sleeve tapering to 1-3/8" and set not more than 1/2" from collar set seam. Cross stitched approximately 2" from sleeve seam. Shoulder strap to have functional buttonhole to align to the eyelet on shoulder of shirt. The point of each shoulder strap shall be tacked to the shoulder of the shirt. Edge stitched shoulder strap construction unacceptable.

Two-ply sling approximately 1” wide centered over left pocket and stitched to shoulder seam and flap setting stitch on the inside of the left front. An exterior badge patch to finish approximately 1-1/2” deep with a ¼” wide tunnel centered on the badge tab and spaced 1” above the top of the left pocket flap.

POCKETS:

Two breast patch pockets with mitered corners and 1-1/4" stitched pleats. Pleats shall be stitched top and bottom and full length of pleat to prevent spreading. Pocket to measure 5" wide, 6-1/4" deep. Breast pockets are set to shirtfront with ¼” double needle stitching. Left breast pocket to have 1- 1/4" pencil stitch. Each pocket shall have a well-sewn buttonhole eyelet centered on the pocket to align with the buttonhole in the pocket flap.

FLAPS:

Black Pocket Flaps to be two-piece mitered design to measure 5-1/4" across and 2-1/8" in depth at center, 1-1/2" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8” above pocket. Each flap to have invisible pencil opening 1-1/4" to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. (Stop & start stitching for pencil opening unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.) Flaps to be 1/4" double needle topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Each flap shall have a buttonhole centered on the flap to align with the buttonhole eyelet on the pocket.

SLEEVES:

Sleeves are to be straight and whole and to be left unhemmed and to finish approximately 13-1/2” long from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the sleeve.

BUTTONS:

First grade 21-ligne 4 hole pearlescent.

SEWING:

Shoulder Straps, pockets and pocket flaps are ¼” double needle topstitched, including yoke. Collar is single topstitched ¼” off the edge. Side close felling seams and sleeve inserting are also ¼” double needle.

THREAD:

All sewing threads to be colorfast polyester wrap to match.

INTERLININGS:

Collar shall be interlined with #285 Stabilized MelloPress. Pocket flaps and shoulder straps to be interlined with #550 Stabilized Mello-Press.

CONVERTABILITY:

This garment shall be designed to accommodate removable metal buttons having eyelets on the shoulder and button front. Each pocket shall have a horizontal eyelet. Protective pieces shall be sewn on the inside of the garment on the shoulders and on the inside of the right front.

CONSTRUCTION:

Collar, straps and flaps are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched.

FABRIC: Burlington 05329-0SS Content: 75% Polyester/25% Wool Weight: 12 oz. per linear yard Weave: Serge Colors: (10) Black

STYLE:

Trouser shall be manufactured from an up-to-date men’s uniform trouser pattern. The trouser styling shall be T-1: plain front, two (2) quarter top front pockets, and two (2) hip pockets professionally finished with no visible topstitching. Work wear industrial style construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.

LINING MATERIAL:

The pocketing and fly lining material shall be 70% Polyester / 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 x 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black.

FLEX WAISTBAND SYSTEM:

Trouser shall be made with a special Flex Waistband System that will allow the wearer waist expansion of 2 1/2" to 3". The waistband shall measure a minimum of 1-7/8" wide when finished. The flexible expansion split portion of the waistband shall be to the front of the trouser side seam and there shall be a ¾-inch wide side belt loop positioned to ‘hide” the expansion split of the waistband.

The waistband curtain shall consist of two different styles for maximum waistband expansion to enhance wearer comfort, fit, and appearance. The front of the trouser (to the expansion split) waistband curtain style shall consist of a 2-inch wide elastic section that incorporates material designed as a shirt stay for maximum comfort and performance. The material will help keep shirts tucked in securely.

The back half of the trouser waistband curtain shall finish a minimum 2-1/8” wide and is to be made of black pocketing material and shall be attached to the top of the trouser with a zigzag stitch. The waistband curtain must also contain material designed as a shirt stay and will line up with the same material on the front of the expansion split.

The waistband curtain is composed of a wet laid non-woven canvas weighing 3.3 oz. per square yard. The canvas is covered in the same color and material as the pocketing.

Count: 32-36 yarns per inch Contents: 59% Polyester/41% Rubber

To complete the Flex Waistband System, there shall be a 1-1/4” wide elastic component sewn into the back half of the waistband curtain to allow for the stretch and recovery of the waistband to comfortably fit the wearer’s waist size. There shall be a bartack for strength and durability sewn at the stress point on the waistband where it joins the front elasticized waistband curtain joining stitching (positioned, on the waistband above the front pocket.)

The waistband closure shall be accomplished with one crush proof hook and eye centered on the waistband for wearer comfort. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with a 7/8" non-woven tape that is anchored with topstitching through and through to the top of the waistband (bartacks in place of topstitching shall be cause for rejection). In addition to the stitching of the waistband when it is set onto the trouser, the waistband must also be topstitched below the waistband seam of the trouser to be finished to allow for alterations (with ample fabric and curtain material to allow trouser size to be increased at least one size). The outlet in the seat is to be proportional to the waist outlet so the seat may also be let out. Seat seam must be sewn with a tandem needle machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum stretch.

BELT LOOPS:

There shall be a minimum of seven belt loops 3/4" in width of double thickness. Each loop must have a non-woven interlining for added durability. All loops (except back center) must be sewn into the top and bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops that are tacked to the outside of the trouser all around waist shall be cause for rejection). The top of the belt loops (except back center) shall be sewn into the waistband curtain seam with a Rocap machine using a zigzag stitch. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the trouser and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband to allow for easier waist alteration.

FLY:

Trouser shall have a brass metal zipper with memory lock brass slider secured by metal stopper at base. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic trouser fabric (tabs made of pocketing material or a "grown on" French Fly will be cause for rejection). The right fly shall be lined with the same material and color as the pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly continuing below the zipper into the crotch area in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. Topstitching of fly to be installed with automatic “J” stitch equipment eliminating puckering and providing a clean finish. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape for maximum strength. Bartack shall line up with starting point of “J” stitch.

POCKETS:

The two (2) front pockets will be quarter top style with a minimum opening of 7" and a minimum depth of 5-3/4" measured from the bottom of the opening. Front pockets to have firm straight bartacks at top and bottom of pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using the stitch, turn, and topstitch method. Front pocket facing and barrier to be made of the basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 1” and barrier shall measure a minimum of 2" (measured to the inside edge of pocket lining).

The two (2) hip pockets shall have a minimum 5-3/8" wide (bartack to bartack) opening and a minimum depth of 5-3/4 " measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Hip pockets shall be constructed using the double welt method on an automatic welt machine. The welts shall be finished in such a manner that there is no topstitching (topstitched hip pockets shall be cause for rejection). The corners of the hip pocket openings shall have straight bartacks for reinforcement (use of triangular bartacks shall be cause for rejection). Hip pocket facing and barrier are to be made of basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 3/4” and the barrier shall be a minimum of 1-1/2". The left hip pocket shall have a centered tab made of basic cloth inserted into the top welt with bartacks at the top and bottom of the tab to form an opening for a button. A button shall be located below the bottom welt corresponding in location with the tab, which shall be interlined with non-woven for added durability. There shall be a dart centered above each hip pocket to waistband. Dart shall be approximately 2-3/4” long tapered from 3/8” at waistband and shall be installed with automatic equipment for a clean non-puckered finish.

The watch pocket shall be located on the right front at the waistband. This pocket shall have a minimum opening of 2-5/8” and a minimum depth of 2-7/8". The front of the pocket shall be made of pocketing fabric and the back of the pocket shall be made of basic fabric and the two pieces are securely stitched together. Each corner of the pocket opening shall have firm straight bartacks.

SEAT:

Seat must be sewn with a Tandem Needle Machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum durability.

CREASES:

The leg creases, front and back will have a silicone bead put in by using the Lintrak process.

STRIPE:

Trousers shall have 1-3/4” wide stripe to the waistband sewn on top of side seam made of 11.25 ounce grey plainweave , 55% Polyester 45% Wool.

STITCHING, PRESSING & FINISHING:

Trouser must be stitched with matching thread. Trouser must be neatly pressed on Hothead Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams are edge serged on automatic equipment for uniformity of quality and shall be pressed open for a smooth pucker-free finish with repeated cleaning and pressing. Trouser must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads.

AVAILABLE SIZES:

Trouser must be available to order in the following sizes:

LABELS:

Trouser must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating waist size. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the outside of the waistband. Ticket to be matchbook style installed with plastic staples for easy removal without damaging trouser material and showing size when trousers are stacked.

Trouser must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating waist size. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the outside of the waistband.

FABRIC: Burlington 05329-0SS Content: 75% Polyester/25% Wool Weight: 12 oz. per linear yard Weave: Serge

STYLE:

Garment shall be manufactured from an up-to-date women’s ProX pattern for comfort and easier sizing. The trouser styling shall be T-1: plain front, two (2) quarter top front pockets, and two (2) hip pockets professionally finished with no visible topstitching. Work wear industrial style construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.

LINING MATERIAL:

The pocketing and fly lining material shall be 70% Polyester / 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 x 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black.

FLEX WAISTBAND SYSTEM:

Trouser shall be made with a special Flex Waistband System that will allow the wearer waist expansion of 2 1/2" to 3". The waistband shall measure a minimum of 1-7/8" wide when finished. The flexible expansion split portion of the waistband shall be to the front of the trouser side seam and there shall be a ¾-inch wide side belt loop positioned to ‘hide” the expansion split of the waistband.

The waistband curtain shall consist of two different styles for maximum waistband expansion to enhance wearer comfort, fit, and appearance. The front of the trouser (to the expansion split) waistband curtain style shall consist of a 2-inch wide elastic section that incorporates material designed as a shirt stay material for maximum comfort and performance. The material will help keep shirts tucked in securely.

The back half of the trouser waistband curtain shall finish a minimum 2-1/8” wide and is to be made of black pocketing material and shall be attached to the top of the trouser with a zigzag stitch. The waistband curtain must also contain material designed as a shirt stay and will line up with the same material on the front of the expansion split.

The waistband curtain is composed of a wet laid non-woven canvas weighing 3.3 oz. per square yard. The canvas is covered in the same color and material as the pocketing.

To complete the Flex Waistband System, there shall be a 1-1/4” wide elastic component sewn into the back half of the waistband curtain to allow for the stretch and recovery of the waistband to comfortably fit the wearer’s waist size. There shall be a bartack for strength and durability sewn at the stress point on the waistband where it joins the front elasticized waistband curtain joining stitching (positioned, on the waistband above the front pocket.)

The waistband closure shall be accomplished with one crush proof hook and eye centered on the waistband for wearer comfort. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with a 7/8" non-woven tape that is anchored with topstitching through and through to the top of the waistband (bartacks in place of topstitching shall be cause for rejection). In addition to the stitching of the waistband when it is set onto the trouser, the waistband must also be topstitched below the waistband seam of the trouser to be finished to allow for alterations (with ample fabric and curtain material to allow trouser size to be increased at least one size). The outlet in the seat is to be proportional to the waist outlet so the seat may also be let out. Seat seam must be sewn with a tandem needle machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum stretch.

BELT LOOPS:

There shall be a minimum of seven belt loops 3/4" in width of double thickness. Each loop must have a non-woven interlining for added durability. All loops (except back center) must be sewn into the top and bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops that are tacked to the outside of the trouser all around waist shall be cause for rejection). The top of the belt loops (except back center) shall be sewn into the waistband curtain seam with a Rocap machine using a zigzag stitch. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the trouser and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband to allow for easier waist alteration.

FLY:

Trouser shall have a brass metal zipper with memory lock brass slider secured by metal stopper at base. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic trouser fabric (tabs made of pocketing material or a "grown on" French Fly will be cause for rejection). The right fly shall be lined with the same material and color as the pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly continuing below the zipper into the crotch area in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. Topstitching of fly to be installed with automatic “J” stitch equipment eliminating puckering and providing a clean finish. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape for maximum strength. Bartack shall line up with starting point of “J” stitch.

SEAT:

Seat must be sewn with a Tandem Needle Machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum durability.

POCKETS:

The two (2) front pockets will be quarter top style with a minimum opening of 6" and a minimum depth of 4-1/2" measured from the bottom of the opening. Front pockets to have firm straight bartacks at bottom of pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using the stitch, turn, and topstitch method. Front pocket facing and barrier to be made of the basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 1” and barrier shall measure a minimum of 2" (measured to the inside edge of pocket lining).

The two (2) hip pockets shall have a minimum 5-3/8" wide (bartack to bartack) opening and a minimum depth of 5-3/4 " measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Hip pockets shall be constructed using the double welt method on an automatic welt machine. The welts shall be finished in such a manner that there is no topstitching (topstitched hip pockets shall be cause for rejection). The corners of the hip pocket openings shall have straight bartacks for reinforcement (use of triangular bartacks shall be cause for rejection). Hip pocket facing and barrier to be made of basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 3/4” and the barrier shall be a minimum of 1-1/2”. The left hip pocket shall have a centered tab made of basic cloth inserted into the top welt with bartacks at the top and bottom of the tab to form an opening for a button. A button shall be located below the bottom welt corresponding in location with the tab, which shall be interlined with non-woven for added durability. There shall be a dart centered above each hip pocket to waistband. Dart shall be approximately 2-3/4” long tapered from 3/8” at waistband and shall be installed with automatic equipment for a clean non-puckered finish.

CREASES:

The leg creases, front and back will have a silicone bead put in by using the Lintrak process.

STRIPE:

Trousers shall have 1-3/4” wide stripe to the waistband sewn on top of side seam made of 11.25 ounce grey plainweave, 55% Polyester 45% Wool.

STITCHING, PRESSING & FINISHING:

Trouser must be stitched with matching thread. Trouser must be neatly pressed on Hothead Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams are edge serged on automatic equipment for uniformity of quality and shall be pressed open for a smooth pucker-free finish with repeated cleaning and pressing. Trouser must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads.

STOCK SIZES:

Trouser must be available from stock in the following sizes:

LABELS:

Trouser must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating waist size. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the outside of the waistband. Ticket to be matchbook style installed with plastic staples for easy removal without damaging trouser material and showing size when trousers are stacked.

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