W911SD-20-Q-0001.pdf

W6X1 USALRCTR US MIL WESTPOINT

W6X1 USALRCTR US MIL WESTPOINT

US MILITARY ACADEMY SSA WAREHO

BLDG 917 WASHINGTON RD 2D FLOOR

WEST POINT NY 10996-5000

TEL: 845-938-4222 FAX:

0011403090

REQUEST FOR QUOTATIONS

(THIS IS NOT AN ORDER) 1

PAGE OF PAGES

1. REQUEST NO. 2. DATE ISSUED RATING

W911SD20Q0001 18-Oct-2019 5a. ISSUED BY

8. TO: NAME AND ADDRESS, INCLUDING ZIP CODE

IMPORTANT: This is a request for information, and quotations furnished are not offers. If you are unable to quote, please so indicate on this form and return it to the address in Block 5a. This request does not commit the Government to pay any costs incurred in the preparation of the submission of this quotation or to contract for supplies or services. Supplies are of domestic origin unless otherwise indicated by quoter. Any representations and/or certifications attached to this

Request for Quotations must be completed by the quoter.

11. SCHEDULE (Include applicable Federal, State, and local taxes)

ITEM NO.

(a)

SUPPLIES/ SERVICES

(b)

QUANTITY

(c)

UNIT

(d)

UNIT PRICE

(e) (f)

SEE SCHEDULE

AMOUNT

% No. %

NOTE: Additional provisions and representations [ ] are [ ] are not attached.

13. NAME AND ADDRESS OF QUOTER (Street, City, County, State, and ZIP Code)

14. SIGNATURE OF PERSON AUTHORIZED TO

SIGN QUOTATION

15. DATE OF

QUOTATION

16. NAME AND TITLE OF SIGNER (Type or print) (Include area code)

TELEPHONE NO.

AUTHORIZED FOR LOCAL REPRODUCTION STANDARD FORM 18 (REV. 6-95)

PREVIOUS EDITION NOT USABLE Prescribed by GSA FAR (48 CFR) 53.215-1(a)

THIS RFQ X[ ] IS [ ] IS NOT A SMALL BUSINESS SET-ASIDE

6. DELIVER BY (Date)

SEE SCHEDULE

AND/OR DMS REG. 1

UNDER BDSA REG. 2

4. CERT. FOR NAT. DEF.3. REQUISITION/PURCHASE

REQUEST NO.

MICC - WEST POINT

681 HARDEE PLACE

WEST POINT NY 10996-1514

9. DESTINATION (Consignee and address, including ZIP Code)

7. DELIVERY

[ ]X FOB

DESTINATION

[ ] OTHER

(See Schedule)

20-Nov-2019(Date)

PLEASE FURNISH QUOTATIONS TO THE ISSUING OFFICE IN BLOCK 5a ON OR BEFORE CLOSE OF BUSINESS:10.

845-938-4490MAUREEN FLANAGAN

(Name and Telephone no.) (No collect calls)5b. FOR INFORMATION CALL:

d. CALENDAR DAYSc. 30 CALENDAR DAYSb. 20 CALENDAR DAYS12. DISCOUNT FOR PROMPT PAYMENT a. 10 CALENDAR DAYS

Section B - Supplies or Services and Prices

ITEM NO SUPPLIES/SERVICES QUANTITY UNIT UNIT PRICE AMOUNT

0001 5,523 Each Cap, Garrison, Gray Men

FFP

Cap, Garrison, GrAy Men (see attached size chart section C) NOTE: The requirements in DFARS 252.211-7003, Item Identification and Valuation, are applicable for this line item. The contractor shall provide DoD unique identification or a DoD recognized unique identification equivalent.

FOB: Destination MFR PART NR: x

PURCHASE REQUEST NUMBER: 0011403090

PSC CD: 8415

NET AMT

ITEM NO SUPPLIES/SERVICES QUANTITY UNIT UNIT PRICE AMOUNT

0002 1,248 Each Cap, Garrison, Gray Women

FFP

Cap, Garrison, Grey Women (see attached size chart section C) NOTE: The requirements in DFARS 252.211-7003, Item Identification and Valuation, are applicable for this line item. The contractor shall provide DoD unique identification or a DoD recognized unique identification equivalent.

FOB: Destination MFR PART NR: x

PURCHASE REQUEST NUMBER: 0011403090

PSC CD: 8415

NET AMT

Section C - Descriptions and Specifications

SPECS-MENS GRAY CAPS

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

CAP, GARRISON, MEN’S POLYESTER/WOOL, ARMY GREEN 344

This specification is approved for use by the U.S. Army Natick Research development and Engineering Center, Department of the Army, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers a garrison cap made of polyester‐wool blend material for male personnel

1.2 ½ Classification. The cap shall be of the following types, classes and sizes as specified (see 6.2):

Type I ‐ Polyester‐Wool, Tropical, Army Green 344 Class ‐ General Officers Class ‐ Officers Class ‐ Warrant Officers Class ‐ Enlisted Personnel

Type II ‐ Polyester and Wool, Serge, Army green 344

Class 1 ‐ General Officers Class 2 ‐ Officers Class 3 ‐ Warrant Officers Class 4 – Enlisted Personnel

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data within may be used in removing this document should be addressed to: U.S. Army Natick Research, Development and Engineering Center, Natick, MA 01760‐5014 by using the self‐addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal DD Form 1426 appearing at the end of the document or by letter.

MIL-C-43419E(GL)

Schedule of sizes

6-3/8 7 7-5/8 6-1/2 7-1/8 7-3/4 6-5/8 7-1/4 7-7/8 6-3/4 7-3/8 6-7/8 7-1/2

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see

6. 2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50083 - Bag, Plastic, Folded Garment CCC-C-438 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Cloth, CCC-C-461- Twill, Uniform Cotton DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) PPP-B-636 - Boxes, Sh1pp1ng, Fiberboard PPP-T-45- Tape, Gummed, Paper, Reinforced and Plain, for Sealing and Securing

MILITARY

MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-C-823 - Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-B-1667 - Braid, Textile, Cord Edge MIL-S-3577 - Sweatband, Headwear, Leather MIL-C-10296 - Cloth, Sateen, Cotton MIL-C-21115- Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-L-35078 - Loads, Unit: Preparation of Semi perishable Subsistence Items; Clothing, Personal Equipment and Equipage, General Specification For MIL-T-43548 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered MIL-C-43675 –Cloth, Interlining, Cotton Warp and Rayon Filling

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATEIALS (ASTM)

D3951 – Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available for the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the test to this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Samples.

3.1.1 Guide samples. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for the guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this document may appear in the sample, in which case the document shall govern.

3.1.2 SAMPLE. When specified (see 6.2), a sample may be subjected to SAMPLE inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Materials. It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this specification.

3.2.1 Basic Material.

3.2.1.1 Type I. The basic material shall be a polyester-wool tropical cloth dyed Army Green 344, conforming to type II class 3 of Mil-C-21115.

3.2.1.2 Type II. The basic material shall be a polyester-wool serge cloth dyed Army Green 344, conforming to type II class 3 of Mil-C-823.

3.2.2 Lining. The lining for the caps shall be rayon twill, dyed Army Green 45, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. As an alternate, the lining material may be a polyester twill cloth, Army Green 46 1, conforming to Mil-C-44121.

3.2.3 Braid, cord edge. The braid for the top edge of the curtain shall conform to one of the following classes of MIL-B-1567, as specified (see 6.2).

For General Officers Class 1 For Officers Class 2 For Warrant Officer Class 3 For Enlisted Personnel Class 4

3.2.4 Sweatband. The leather sweatband shall be not less than 7/3 inch wide, shall be dyed a brown shade, and shall conform to MIL-S-3577.

3.2.4.1 Alternate Sweatband. The following are alternates to the leather sweatband. The sweatband shell fabric shall be polyester twill, black, class2 conforming to MIL-C-43718. Conforming to MIL-C-43718. The sweatband interlining shall be buckram, type III, class 1 conforming to CCC- C-438. The sweatband shell fabric and inter- lining shall be cut on the bias and may be pre-cut and pre-folded to specified width and put on rolls.

The area of joining of the pre-cut and pre-folded sweatband fabric that ls placed on rolls shall be sewn diagonally with the raw edges turned to the inside. Another alternate fabric for the sweatband shall be either cotton uniform twill cloth, black, 8 ounce, conforming to type III of CCC-C-46, except the requirements for colorfastness to bleaching and light shall not apply, or sateen, cotton cloth, black, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-1O296.

Sweatband fabric shall be cut on the bias and may be pre-cut and pre-folded to specified width and put on rolls. The area of joining of the pre- cut and pre-folded sweatband fabric that is placed on rolls shall be sewn diagonally with the raw edges turned to the inside.

3.2.5 Labels. Each cap shall have a combination identification-size label, conforming to type VI, class 4 of DDD-L-20. The label shall show fastness to dry cleaning. The label shall contain the 1nstruct1on "DRY CLEAN ON Y" in 1/8 inch maximum he1gnt lettering.

3.2.5.1 Caution instruction. Each type I and type II, classes 1, 2, and 3 caps only shall be furnished with a caution instruction sheet. The caution instruction sheet shall be printed on white bond paper and inserted within the cap (see S.4.1). Format and contents of the caution instruction sheet shall be as follows:

CAUTION

Continually carrying the garrison cap under the web belt can cause the gold braid core edge to RUPTURE.

3.2.6 Thread. The thread shall be cotton-covered, rayon-covered or polyester-covered polyester cord, ticket number 50-2 or- 3 ply and 70- 2 ply conforming to MIL-T-43548.

NOTE: The thread for tasting shall be bleached or unbleached casting thread, or the thread used for seaming and stitching may be used for basting.

3.2.6.1 Color. The thread shall be dyed Green E, C.A. 66034; except that where the stitching appears on the sweatband, the thread shall be a brown shade approximately matching the leather sweatband or black when fabric sweatband is used.

3.2.6.1.1 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show fastness to wet dry-cleaning and light, equal to or better than standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show "good" fastness to wet-dry cleaning and light. In addition, the brown or black thread shall show "good" fastness to perspiration.

3.2.1 Side piece interlining. The material for interlining the s1de piece shall be either one of the following:

3.2.7.1 Cotton warp-rayon filling cloth. The material for interlining the side piece shall be cotton warp-rayon filling cloth conforming to MIL-C- 43675. As an alternate, cloth, interlining, or co-polyester conforau.ng to type II of MIL-L-43920 may be used except the requirement for dimensional stability s all not apply.

3.2.7.2 Haircloth. '!'he material for interlining the side piece shall be cotton warp and horseha1r filling interlining conforming to the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.4.1:

Weight per square yard 8 ounces (minimum)Cotton warp, yarns per inch 55 to 65 (single or two ply yarns)

Horsehair filling, yarns per inch 65 to 85 Stiffness, inch-pounds (minimum) Warp-0.050, filling-0.155

The cotton warp may be dyed and undyed. The filling shall be natural color horsehair. When dyed yarns are used for the warp, the dyed yarns shall show good fastness to perspiration and wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.2.8 Sweatband reinforcement strip. The reinforcement strip shall be a 5/8 inch wide strip of print cloth or sheeting, coated lightly on both sides with pyroxylin or vinyl.

3.3 Design. The design of caps shall be as shown on figure 1.

3.4 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns which shall not be altered in any way. Unless otherwise specified, standard patterns provide for a seam allowance of 1 '4 inch.

3.4.1 List of pattern parts. The cap parts shall be cut from the specified mater1als in accordance with pattern parts indicated below:

TABLE I. List of pattern parts

Material Nomenclature Cut Parts Cloth, polyester-wool, Side piece 2 Tropical, Army Green 344 Curtain or Cloth, polyester and wool, Side piece 2 serge, Army Green 344 Curtain

Cloth, rayon twill, Lining 2 Army Green 115

Cloth, cotton warp-rayon Interlining 2 filling or Cloth, cotton or synthetic Interlining 2 and nylon or co-polyester

3.5 Construction.

3.5.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitches, seams, and stitching types specified in table II shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods of seams are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 or 101 1s used, the under part of the stitch shall not be visible on the finished cap. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in table II.

3.5.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all seams and st1tch1ngs produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back-tacked not less than 1/4 inch, except that ends or a continuous line of stitching shall overlap and shall not be backtacked regardless of stitch type used. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight st1tcn1ng resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be 1mbedded in the materials sewn.

3.5.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs or type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1 / 2 inch back of the end of the stitching. /

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or runoff stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching.

The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue over the defective area a minimum or 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner.

1 / When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.5.1.2 Types 101, 401, 304 and 500 class stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be 1n accordance with 3.5.1.1.1a and 3.5.1.1 .1b. Repairs to stitch type 01 may be accomplished by use or stitch type 301.

3.6 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any or the operation specified in table II, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a government finished shaper pattern is furnished, the component shall conform to that pattern.

3.6 Manufacturing operations requirements. The caps shall be

manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in table II.

The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations or sub- operations except in the setting of the leather sweatband (see operation 10). Any additional basting or holding stitching, other than those specified, used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided the threads are removed or do not show in the finished cap.

3.7.1 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. If there are any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

No

TABLE II.

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS

REQUIREMENTS

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM and

STICHING

TYPE

STITCHES

PER INCH

Thread

Needle Bobbin looper

Cover

1.

2.

3.

Cutting.

a. Cut cap parts in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show size, shape, and notches for proper assembly of all parts. Cut the side pieces and curtain from one piece of material. All component fabric parts shall be cut on the straight in the direction of the warp as indicated by directional lines on patterns.

b. Cut the interlining for the side pieces in accor- dance with patterns furnished so that the rayon filling or the horsehair filling is perpendicular and will run vertical to the bottom of the finished cap.

Replacement of defective components. Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages, as specified MTL-STD-901, are excluded and replaced with non- defective and properly matched material.

Marking.

a. Mark, ticket or bundle all parts to insure a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the cap.

b. Any method of marking may be used except:

(1) Metal fastening devices.

(2) Sew-on tickets.

(3) Adhesive type tickets which leave traces of adhesive on the material after removal of the tickets.

3.8 Finished measurements. The finished measurements shall conform to

Table III.

TABLE III. Finished measurements

Overall cap height Overall curtain Cap Size Head size 1/ at center 2/ height at center (Excluding braid) 2/

Inches Inches Inches 6-3/8 20-1/8 5-1/8 3-3/16 6-1/2 20-1/2 5-1/8 3-3/16 6-5/8 20-7/8 5-1/8 3-3/16 6-3/4 21-1/4 5-1/8 3-3/16 6-718 21-5/8 5-1/8 3-3/16 7 22 5-1/8 3-3/16 7-1/8 22-3/8 5-1/8 3-3/16 7-1/4 22-3/4 5-1/8 3-3/16 7-3/8 23-1/8 5-1/8 3-3/16 7-1/2 23-1/2 5-1/8 3-3/16 7-5/8 23-7/8 5-1/8 3-3/16 7-3/4 24-1/4 5-1/8 3-3/16 7-7/8 24-5/8 5-1/8 3-3/16

1/ Tolerance + 1/4 inch, - 1/8 inch on head size.

2/ Tolerance + 1/4 inch, - 1/8 inch on height

NOTE: Size measurements will be made with gage, Overall cap height measurement 1s taken at center of cap from bottom folded edge of curtain to top edge of side pieces.

Overall curtain height measurement is taken at center of cap from bottom folded edge of curtain to top edge of curtain (excluding braid).

3.9 Workmanship. The finished cap shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification and the occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point values.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein.

Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any other fac1l1t1e suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless

MIL-C-43419E (GL)

disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in this specif1cation where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.2 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractor's overall inspection system or quality program.

The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is an acceptable pract1ce to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to accept defective material.

4.1.3 Responsibility for dimensional requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met. When dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, inspection shall be made at any point, or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to assure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.4 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. SAMPLE inspection (see 4.3).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4).

4.3 SAMPLE inspection. When a SAMPLE is required (see 3.1.2 and 6.2), it shall be examined for the applicable end item visual and dimensional defects in accordance with the sampling and inspection provisions of MIL-STD- 901.

4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105.

4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document. In addition, testing shall be performed on components listed in table IV for characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191, MIL-C-43419E(GL) wherever applicable and as listed in table IV shall be followed. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any of the test requirements specified. The lot size and sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (lot unit) Sample size (number of sample units) 800 or less 2 801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 and over 5

The basis for lot size and sample units for testing shall be as follows:

Component Lot size units Sample unit for testing Interlining, cotton Yards 1 yard full width warp, horsehair filling

Print cloth or Yards 1 yard strip sheeting

TABLE IV. Component and material tests

Component Characteristic Requirement Test method Paragraph_____________________

Interlining, Weight per square 3.2.1.2 5041 cotton warp, yard Yarn ply, warp 3.2.1.2 Visual 1/ horsehair Yarns per inch Stiffness 3.2.1.2 5050 filling (inch-pounds) 3.2.1.2 5202 Colorfastness (when dyed yarn is used) to:

Perspiration 3.2.7.2 5680

Wet-dry 3.2.7.2 5622

Cleaning

Print cloth or sheeting, coated Material identification 3.2.8 2/

Width 3.2.8 Manual 1/

1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the results reported as "pass" or "fail". All failures shall be described.

2/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance is required and will be acceptable for the requirement stated.

4.4.2 In-process inspection. For the types I and II, classes 1 and 2 caps, in-process inspection shall be performed to assure that the stitching required on the curtain in ta le I!, operation 7.b does not go through the cord edge of the braid. After the completion of operation 7.b, 15 percent of each hours production of the curtain from each stitching machine shall be randomly selected and inspected. The finding of any st1tch1ng in the cord edge shall be cause for rejection of that hours production.

4.4.3 Point count inspection. Sampling and inspection provisions for end item visual examination, dimensional examination, and packaging examination shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-901.

4.4.4 Palletization examination. The fully packaged and palletized end items shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of palletized unit loads. The sample unit shall be one palletized unit load, fully packaged. The inspection level shall be S-1 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 6.5.

Examine Defect Finished dimension Length, width, or height exceeds specified maximum requirement.

Palletization Pallet pattern not as specified. Interlocking of loads not as specified.

Load not bonded with required straps as specified.

Weight Exceeds maximum load limits.

Marking Omitted; incorrect; illegible; of improper size, location, sequence, or method of application.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation. Preservation shall be level A or Commercial as specified (see 6.2).

5. 1.1 Level A.

5.1.1.1 Unit packing. Each cap shall be inserted into a snug-fitting flat style clear polyethylene film bag conforming to A-A-50083.

5.l.1.2 Intermediate packing. Forty caps of one size and class only, unit packed as specified in 5.1.1.1, shall be packed alternatively (crown edge up and crown edge down) on edge in an intermediate fiberboard box conforming to style RSC, type CF, variety SW, class domestic, grade 175 of PPP-B-636. Inside dimensions of each box shall be 15 inches in length, 12-1/2 inches in width, and 5-1/2 inches in depth. Closure of boxes shall be effected with 2 inch minimum width gummed paper tape conforming to type III of PPP-T-45.

5.1.2 Commercial. Caps shall be preserved in accordance with ASTM J 3951.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be level A, B or Commercial as specified (see6.2).

5.2.1 Level A pack1ng. Two hundred and forty caps of one size and class only, preserved as specified 1n 5.1, shall be packed in a fiberboard shipping container conforming to style RSC, grade V2s of PPP-B-636.Level A intermediate boxes shall be packed flat two in length, one in width, and three in depth within a shipping container. Inside dimensions of each shipping container shall approximate 26-1/4 inches in length, 16 inches in width, and18 inches in depth. Approximate dimensions are furnished as a guide only. Each shipping container shall be closed in accordance with method III, waterproofed in accordance with method V, and reinforced as specified in the appendix of PPP-B-636 except that the inspection shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-901. Shipping containers shall be arranged in unit loads in accordance with MIL-L-35078 for the type and class of load specified (see 6.2). Strapping shall be limited to nonmetallic strapping, except for type II, class F loads.

5.2.2 Level B packing. Two hundred and forty caps of one size and class only, preserved as spec1 1ed in 5.1, shall be packed in a fiberboard sh1pp1ng container conforming to style RSC, type CF (variety SW) or SF, class domestic, grade 275 of PPP-B-636. Level A intermediate boxes shall be packed flat two in length, one in width, and three in depth within a shipping container. Inside dimensions of each shipping container shall approximate 26- 1/4 inches 1n length, 16 inches 1n width, and 18 inche3 in depth. Approximate dimensions are furnished as a guide only. Each shipping container shall be closed with method II a5 5pec1f1ed 1n the appendix of PPP-B-636 except that the inspection shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-901.

5.2.2.1 Weather-resistant fiberboard containers. When specified (see 6.2), the shipping container shall be a grade V3c, V3s, or V4s fiberboard box fabricated in accordance with PPP-B-636 and closed 1n accordance with method III as specified in the appendix of PPP-B-636 except that the inspection shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-901.

5.2.3 Commercial packing. Caps, preserved as specified in 5.1, shall be packed in accordance with ASTM D 3951.

5.3 Palletization. When specified (see 6.2), caps, packed as specified in 5.2.2 and 5,2.3 shall be palletized on a 4-way entry pallet in accordance with load type Ia of MIL-STD-147. Pallet type shall be type I (4-way entry), type IV, or type V in accordance with MIL-STD-147. Pallets shall be fabricated from wood groups I, II, III, or IV of MIL-STD-731. Each prepared load shall be bonded with primary and secondary straps in accordance with bonding means K and L or film bonding means O or P. Pallet pattern shall be number 3 in accordance with the appendix of MIL-STD-147.

Interlocking of loads shall be effected by reversing the pattern of each course.

5.4 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or purchase order, interior packs, shipping containers, and palletized unit loads shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129 or ASTM D 3951, as applicable.

5.4.1 Polyethylene bagged unit packs. Polyethylene bagged unit packs shall have the required identification information legibly printed or stamped in black directly on the bag across the center face or on a white paper label inserted within the bag so as to permit ready identification. Each type I and type II, class 1, 2 and 3 cap shall be unit packed with a caution instruction sheet inserted within the polyethylene bag (see 3.2.5.1).

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.

6.1 Intended use. The caps are intended for wear by male Military personnel of the Department of the Army.

6.2 Ordering data. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this document.

b. Type, class, and size required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.1,1 and 2.2).

d. When a SAMPLE sample 1s required (see 3.1.2, 4.3, and 6.3).

e. Class of braid required (see 3.2.3).

f. Levels of preservation and packing (see 5.1 and 5.2).

g. Type and class of unit load required (see 5.2.1).

h. When weather-resistant grade fiberboard shipping containers are required for level B packing (see 5.2.2.1).

i. When palletization is required (see 5.3).

6.3 SAMPLE. When a SAMPLE is required, it shall be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209. The SAMPLE should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of SAMPLE and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the SAMPLE.

6.4 Sample. For access to samples, address the contracting

activity issuing the invitation for bids.

MIL-C-43419E (GL)

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing. Headgear

6.6 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extensiveness of the changes.

Custodian:

Army - GL

Review activities:

Army - MD

DLA - CT

Preparing activity:

Army - GL

(Project 8405-A080)

CONTINUE NEXT PAGE

SPECS-WOMENS GRAY CAP

IN

CH-

POUND

MIL-DTL-

44130D

(GL)

XX

XXXX

X 2019

SUPER

SEDIN

G MIL-

C- 44130C

(GL)

11 January 1991

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CAP, GARRISON, WOMENS, POLYESTER/WOOL

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for polyester/wool cloth, for the use in Garrison, women’s cap.

1.2 Classifications. This specification covers the following types, classes and sizes for the women’s caps (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Types.

Type I- Army, Army Green 489 Type II- Air Force, Blue 1620

1.2.2 Classes.

Class 1 -

General Officers Class 2 – Officers Class 3 - Warrant Officers Class 4 - Enlisted Personnel

1.2.3 Sizes. The Garrison women’s cap sizes are as follows:

Schedule of sizes (inches)

20, 20-1/2, 21, 21-1/2, 22, 22-1/2, 23, 23-1/2, 24, 24-1/2, 25

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed: Attn: DLA Troop Support, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database https://assist.dla.mil.

MIL-DTL-44130D

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, documents users are cautioned that they must meet specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents,

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-55264 - Braid, Textile, Cord-Edge A-A-59709 - Cloth, Bunting, Nylon; and Nylon and Wool

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-823 - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-902 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Caps, Garrison, Women's

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following document forms a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited on the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.aatcc.org)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D 2724 - Standard Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated

Apparel Fabrics ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) G-E or G-T ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Unless a specific exemption has been obtained, nothing in this document, supersedes applicable laws and regulations.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Samples. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished women’s cap shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Design. The cap shall be a garrison style having a one piece crown, a one piece curtain, two

(2) piece side panel with tapered ends crossing at the front and a sweatband. Cap Class 2 and Class 4 shall have cord edge braid around top edge of curtain. (See Figure 1)

3.4.1 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

a. Materials.

• Basic material. The basic material for the caps shall be a polyester and wool fabric conforming to Type III of MIL-DTL-823 and it shall be laminated to interlining material in 3.5.2.

Type I cap shall conform to Class 3 (11.3 ounce) and Type II cap shall conform to Class 4 (9.5 ounce) of MIL-DTL-823. Type I cap shall match standard shade Army Green 489 and Type II cap shall match Air Force Blue 1620.

• Interlining. The interlining for the cap shall be a polyester foam with nylon tricot laminate having a weight of 1.0 to 1.6 ounces per square yard, and shall be pre-bonded to the basic material (3.5.1). Under no circumstance shall the dry heat temperature of the lamination process exceed 315 (± 6)°F when applying the interlining to the basic material. The thickness of the bonded foam/knit/basic material shall not exceed 0.05 inches when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color of the nylon tricot shall be black and the color of the foam shall be either black or charcoal. The laminate interlining shall meet the initial bonding strength and preproduction dry-clean testing requirements specified in 3.5.2.1 when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5.2.1 Basic material laminate, bond strength. The interlining after being bonded to the basic material, shall have a minimum initial bond strength of 12 ounces (per inch width) when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1.

3.5.3 Sweatband. The cap’s sweatband shall be a nylon bunting conforming to Type I, Class A of A-A-59709, except that the colorfastness requirement shall not apply. The color of the bunting shall be black. The dyed bunting shall meet a colorfastness grade of 3-4 for dry cleaning, perspiration, and crocking when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5.4 Braid. The cap braid for Class 2 and Class 4, shall conform to Class 6 and Class 7 of A-A-

55264 respectively. The polyester yarn described in A-A-55264 shall be used for the coed cover over the braid.

3.5.5 Thread. The thread for stitching and seaming shall be cotton-covered polyester core thread, conforming to Type I of A-A-50199 in following Tex sizes: 46-60, 36-45, and 31-35. The shade of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material. Black thread shall be used for stitching which appears on the sweatband.

3.6 Labels. Each cap shall have a combination identification, instruction, size label and a barcode label/tag.

3.6.1 Combination size, identification and care instruction label. The combination identification, instruction, size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 4 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall meet a colorfastness grade of 3-4 for dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The label shall also contain the following care instructions in 1/8 inch maximum height lettering.

3.6.2 Barcode label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the Type VIII, class 17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075, except in addition to the National Stock Number (NSN) the label/tag shall also have a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) element. The UPC is assigned by the Government for all NSNs and the initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the barcode. This label/tag shall be located so that both the NSN and UPC barcodes are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label’s location and inscription shall cause no damage to the item.

3.7 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns or a master pattern with grade rules to maintain uniformity and consistency in manufacturing. The Government patterns shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures; however the design and finished measurements must be obtained. The standard pattern provides a seam allowance of 1/4 inch for all seams unless otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns shall show size, seam allowance, directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts.

Pattern guidelines shall not be modified. Adhesive patterns are prohibited. Pattern parts shall be as listed in Table I.

TABLE I. Pattern parts list.

Material Pattern Part Piece name Cut Number

Basic material (bonded to interlining)

Crown 1/ CROWN 1 Curtain CURTAIN 1

Side panel SIDE PANEL 2 1/ Contractor may trim off front point indicated at cut line.

3.8 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitches, seams, and stitching types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seam or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch type 401 is used, the looper shall be on the inside of the cap. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, or puckers will not result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches.

3.8.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked or overstitched not less than 1/2-inch.

DRY CLEAN ONLY PRESSING/IRON

TEMPERATURE WITH STEAM

SHALL BE 325 (±6º)F OR

USE WOOL SETTING WITH STEAM

Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.8.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2- inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2- inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.8.2 Types 101, 301, 401, 406, 503, 504, and 505. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.8.1.1 a, and 3.8.1.1 b.

Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch type 301.

3.9 Use of automated equipment. Automated equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table II, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a Government furnished shaper pattern is forwarded, the component shall conform to that pattern.

3.10 Pressing. Pressing specified in Table II shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine.

3.11 Shade marking. The component parts shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the cap. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after removal of tickets.

3.12 Manufacturing operations requirements. The cap shall be constructed in accordance with all manufacturing operations specified in Table II. Unless otherwise specified in Table II, the contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished cap is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this specification. Any additional basting or holding stitches used to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the threads are removed or do not show on the finished cap.

TABLE II. Table of operations.

No Operation Stitch Type

Seam Type

Stitch inch

1. Cut components

a. Cut the cap components from the pre-bonded basic material in strict accordance with furnished patterns, which show size, shape, directional lines, and notches for proper assembly of all parts.

b. Cut the nylon bunting for sweatbands on the bias 1 inch wide.

2. Replacement of damaged parts During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-902, as specified in 4.4.2, shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

3. Marking and bundling.

a. Mark, ticket, or bundle all components of the cap to ensure a uniform shade, color pattern, and size throughout the cap.

4. Attach label

LSbj-1

10-14 Position the combination label on the inside left basic material laminate side panel (as worn) 3/4 inch above the bottom raw edge and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge on all four sides. Stitching shall not extend above curtain on finished cap.

5. Make crown

OSF-1

10-14 Fold crown in half lengthwise, face to face. Stitch fold

1/2 (±) 1/16 inch deep at center, tapering to nothing 1/2 to 3/4 inch from each end and securely backtack.

6. Make sides

a. Position the side panels face to face with edges even.

Stitch each end (front and back) from bottom edge to notch at top.

301 SSz-3(a) 12-14

b. Open front seam and raise stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch on each side of seam.

301 SSz-3(b) 12-14

DRAFT MIL-DTL-44130D

TABLE III. Table of operations. - Continued

Seam Type

Stitch inch

7. Join panels to crown

a. Position top of side panels to crown, face to face. Stitch together, matching the notch at front of crown to center front. Join seam of the side panels, and the point at back end of crown to center back.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14

b. Spread back seam open and raise stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from joining seam beginning at bottom, and crossing over at notch in crown. With seam allowance at top of crown turned towards inside, continue raise stitching around crown and down opposite side of back seam.

301 or

SSz-3(b) & LSar- 2(b)

12-14

c. Turn cap right side out, smoothing out all points and seams. Press cap smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine or a heated steam iron.

8. Join braid to curtain (Classes 2 & 4)

a. With tape edge of braid and top edge of curtain even, stitch at base of braid the length of curtain, ensuring that stitching does not go through the cord edge of the braid.

301 or 401 or

LSq-3(a) 12-14

NOTE: Operation 8.a may be omitted provided that the top of the curtain is positioned tightly against the cord edge of the braid in the finished cap.

b. Turn the braid to the wrong side and stitch to the curtain with a double row of stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge.

301 or 401 or

LSq-3(b) 12-14

c. Press curtain smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine or a heated steam iron.

THIS SECTION IS INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE IIII. Table of operations. -

Seam Type

Stitch inch

9. Join curtain to panel

a. Overlap the ends of the curtain (left side over right side of cap as worn), and match with the front and back seams of the panels in the position worn. Join together as indicated by pattern notches. Sew the left end of the curtain slightly full from the notch to the end to avoid a tight edge when the cap folds at the front.

301 or 401 or

SSa-1 6-8

NOTE: The curtain shall cross itself at the front seam of the cap; a tolerance of 1/4 inch from the exact alignment will be allowed.

b. The bottom of side panels and curtains shall be aligned so that the notches and seams coincide. Stitch in place.

101 or

LSq-2(a)

6-8

c. Turn curtain down and side panel seam under side panel and raise stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch on side panel. Stitching shall not go thru the curtain.

301 or

LSq-2(b) 6-8

10. Attach sweatband.

Finished appearance: The sweatband shall be uniformly stitched, and finished smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges.

SSat-2

10-14

a. Cut sweatband to size. The edges of the sweatband shall be folded under 1/4 inch on each side, producing a finished sweatband width of 1/4 inch. The sweatband may be commercially cut, folded, and put on rolls. The splice shall be sewn with the raw edges turned to the inside.

b. With curtain turned down, position bottom turned edge of sweatband on line of stitching created by joining panel to curtain. Sweatband shall cover raw edges of curtain and side panels. Stitch sweatband on both sides 1/32 to 1/16 inch from edges.

c. Overlap ends of sweatband for about 1 inch. Ends shall not overlap at the back seam of the cap. One of the following operations shall be used:

TABLE IIV. Table of operations. -

Seam Type

Stitch inch

10 (1) Turn top end under 1/4 to 1/2 inch and stitch.

OR

301 SSat-2 10-14

(2) Overedge the edge of top end.

OR

503 or 504 or

EFd-1 8-10

(3) Stitch ends 1/4 inch beyond edge and back tack. 301 SSat-2 10-14

11. Cleaning.

a. Trim all thread ends

b. Remove all loose threads, spots, stains, and markings for shade, color, and size.

12. Pressing.

a. On the inside of cap, press smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine or a heated steam iron, forming a crease on the bottom edge.

b…