DRAFT_MIL-DTL-44130_Rev_D_Garrison_Cap_Womens__1_(FC)_Aug-27-2019.pdf

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed: Attn: DLA Troop Support, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database https://assist.dla.mil.

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-44130D (GL)

XX XXXXX 2019

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-44130C (GL)

11 January 1991

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CAP, GARRISON, WOMENS, POLYESTER/WOOL

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for polyester/wool cloth, for the use in Garrison, women’s cap.

1.2 Classifications. This specification covers the following types, classes and sizes for the women’s caps (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Types.

Type I- Army, Army Green 489 Type II- Air Force, Blue 1620

1.2.2 Classes.

Class 1 - General Officers Class 2 – Officers Class 3 - Warrant Officers Class 4 - Enlisted Personnel

1.2.3 Sizes. The Garrison women’s cap sizes are as follows:

Schedule of sizes (inches)

20, 20-1/2, 21, 21-1/2, 22, 22-1/2, 23, 23-1/2, 24, 24-1/2, 25 https://assist.dla.mil/

DRAFT MIL-DTL-44130D (GL)

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, documents users are cautioned that they must meet specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents,

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-55264 - Braid, Textile, Cord-Edge A-A-59709 - Cloth, Bunting, Nylon; and Nylon and Wool

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-823 - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-902 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Caps, Garrison, Women's

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following document forms a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited on the solicitation or contract.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)/ https://www.ftc.gov/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method

AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC Test Method 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.aatcc.org)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials ASTM D 2724 - Standard Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated

Apparel Fabrics ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) G-E or G-T ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Unless a specific exemption has been obtained, nothing in this document, supersedes applicable laws and regulations.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished women’s cap shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3.4 Design. The cap shall be a garrison style having a one piece crown, a one piece curtain, two

(2) piece side panel with tapered ends crossing at the front and a sweatband. Cap Class 2 and Class 4 shall have cord edge braid around top edge of curtain. (See Figure 1)

3.4.1 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figure, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the caps shall be a polyester and wool fabric conforming to Type III of MIL-DTL-823 and it shall be laminated to interlining material in 3.5.2.

Type I cap shall conform to Class 3 (11.3 ounce) and Type II cap shall conform to Class 4 (9.5 ounce) of MIL-DTL-823. Type I cap shall match standard shade Army Green 489 and Type II cap shall match Air Force Blue 1620.

3.5.2 Interlining. The interlining for the cap shall be a polyester foam with nylon tricot laminate having a weight of 1.0 to 1.6 ounces per square yard, and shall be pre-bonded to the basic material (3.5.1). Under no circumstance shall the dry heat temperature of the lamination process exceed 315 (± 6)°F when applying the interlining to the basic material. The thickness of the bonded foam/knit/basic material shall not exceed 0.05 inches when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color of the nylon tricot shall be black and the color of the foam shall be either black or charcoal. The laminate interlining shall meet the initial bonding strength and preproduction dry-clean testing requirements specified in 3.5.2.1 when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5.2.1 Basic material laminate, bond strength. The interlining after being bonded to the basic material, shall have a minimum initial bond strength of 12 ounces (per inch width) when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1.

3.5.3 Sweatband. The cap’s sweatband shall be a nylon bunting conforming to Type I, Class A of A-A-59709, except that the colorfastness requirement shall not apply. The color of the bunting shall be black. The dyed bunting shall meet a colorfastness grade of 3-4 for dry cleaning, perspiration, and crocking when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.5.4 Braid. The cap braid for Class 2 and Class 4, shall conform to Class 6 and Class 7 of A-A- 55264 respectively. The polyester yarn described in A-A-55264 shall be used for the coed cover over the braid.

3.5.5 Thread. The thread for stitching and seaming shall be cotton-covered polyester core thread, conforming to Type I of A-A-50199 in following Tex sizes: 46-60, 36-45, and 31-35. The shade of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material. Black thread shall be used for stitching which appears on the sweatband.

3.6 Labels. Each cap shall have a combination identification, instruction, size label and a barcode label/tag.

3.6.1 Combination size, identification and care instruction label. The combination identification, instruction, size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 4 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall meet a colorfastness grade of 3-4 for dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The label shall also contain the following care instructions in 1/8 inch maximum height lettering.

DRY CLEAN ONLY

PRESSING/IRON TEMPERATURE WITH STEAM

SHALL BE 325 (±6º)F

OR

USE WOOL SETTING WITH STEAM

3.6.2 Barcode label/tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the Type VIII, class 17 label/tag of MIL-DTL-32075, except in addition to the National Stock Number (NSN) the label/tag shall also have a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) element. The UPC is assigned by the Government for all NSNs and the initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the barcode. This label/tag shall be located so that both the NSN and UPC barcodes are completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The label’s location and inscription shall cause no damage to the item.

3.7 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns or a master pattern with grade rules to maintain uniformity and consistency in manufacturing. The Government patterns shall be used to create the contractor’s working patterns. Minor pattern modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures; however the design and finished measurements must be obtained. The standard pattern provides a seam allowance of 1/4 inch for all seams unless otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns shall show size, seam allowance, directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts.

Pattern guidelines shall not be modified. Adhesive patterns are prohibited. Pattern parts shall be as listed in Table I.

TABLE I. Pattern parts list.

Material Pattern Part Piece name Cut Number Basic material

(bonded to interlining)

Crown 1/ CROWN 1 Curtain CURTAIN 1

Side panel SIDE PANEL 2 1/ Contractor may trim off front point indicated at cut line.

3.8 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitches, seams, and stitching types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seam or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch type 401 is used, the looper shall be on the inside of the cap. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, or puckers will not result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches.

3.8.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked or overstitched not less than 1/2-inch.

Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.8.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2- inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2- inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.8.2 Types 101, 301, 401, 406, 503, 504, and 505. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.8.1.1 a, and 3.8.1.1 b.

Repairs to stitch type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch type 301.

3.9 Use of automated equipment. Automated equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table II, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. When a Government furnished shaper pattern is forwarded, the component shall conform to that pattern.

3.10 Pressing. Pressing specified in Table II shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine.

3.11 Shade marking. The component parts shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the cap. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after removal of tickets.

3.12 Manufacturing operations requirements. The cap shall be constructed in accordance with all manufacturing operations specified in Table II. Unless otherwise specified in Table II, the contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished cap is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table II. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this specification. Any additional basting or holding stitches used to facilitate manufacture are permissible provided the threads are removed or do not show on the finished cap.

TABLE II. Table of operations.

No Operation Stitch Type

Seam Type

Stitch inch

1. Cut components

a. Cut the cap components from the pre-bonded basic material in strict accordance with furnished patterns, which show size, shape, directional lines, and notches for proper assembly of all parts.

b. Cut the nylon bunting for sweatbands on the bias 1 inch wide.

2. Replacement of damaged parts During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-902, as specified in 4.4.2, shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

3. Marking and bundling.

a. Mark, ticket, or bundle all components of the cap to ensure a uniform shade, color pattern, and size throughout the cap.

4. Attach label Position the combination label on the inside left basic material laminate side panel (as worn) 3/4 inch above the bottom raw edge and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge on all four sides. Stitching shall not extend above curtain on finished cap.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

5. Make crown Fold crown in half lengthwise, face to face. Stitch fold 1/2 (±) 1/16 inch deep at center, tapering to nothing 1/2 to 3/4 inch from each end and securely backtack.

301 OSF-1 10-14

6. Make sides

a. Position the side panels face to face with edges even.

Stitch each end (front and back) from bottom edge to notch at top.

301 SSz-3(a) 12-14

b. Open front seam and raise stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch on each side of seam.

301 SSz-3(b) 12-14

TABLE III. Table of operations. - Continued

No Operation Stitch Type

Seam Type

Stitch inch

7. Join panels to crown

a. Position top of side panels to crown, face to face. Stitch together, matching the notch at front of crown to center front. Join seam of the side panels, and the point at back end of crown to center back.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14

b. Spread back seam open and raise stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from joining seam beginning at bottom, and crossing over at notch in crown. With seam allowance at top of crown turned towards inside, continue raise stitching around crown and down opposite side of back seam.

301 or

SSz-3(b) & LSar- 2(b)

12-14

c. Turn cap right side out, smoothing out all points and seams. Press cap smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine or a heated steam iron.

8. Join braid to curtain (Classes 2 & 4)

a. With tape edge of braid and top edge of curtain even, stitch at base of braid the length of curtain, ensuring that stitching does not go through the cord edge of the braid.

301 or 401 or

LSq-3(a) 12-14

NOTE: Operation 8.a may be omitted provided that the top of the curtain is positioned tightly against the cord edge of the braid in the finished cap.

b. Turn the braid to the wrong side and stitch to the curtain with a double row of stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge.

301 or 401 or

LSq-3(b) 12-14

c. Press curtain smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine or a heated steam iron.

THIS SECTION IS INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK

TABLE IIII. Table of operations. - Continued

No Operation Stitch Type

Seam Type

Stitch inch

9. Join curtain to panel

a. Overlap the ends of the curtain (left side over right side of cap as worn), and match with the front and back seams of the panels in the position worn. Join together as indicated by pattern notches. Sew the left end of the curtain slightly full from the notch to the end to avoid a tight edge when the cap folds at the front.

301 or 401 or

SSa-1 6-8

NOTE: The curtain shall cross itself at the front seam of the cap; a tolerance of 1/4 inch from the exact alignment will be allowed.

b. The bottom of side panels and curtains shall be aligned so that the notches and seams coincide. Stitch in place.

101 or

LSq-2(a)

6-8

c. Turn curtain down and side panel seam under side panel and raise stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch on side panel. Stitching shall not go thru the curtain.

301 or

LSq-2(b) 6-8

10. Attach sweatband.

Finished appearance: The sweatband shall be uniformly stitched, and finished smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges.

a. Cut sweatband to size. The edges of the sweatband shall be folded under 1/4 inch on each side, producing a finished sweatband width of 1/4 inch. The sweatband may be commercially cut, folded, and put on rolls. The splice shall be sewn with the raw edges turned to the inside.

b. With curtain turned down, position bottom turned edge of sweatband on line of stitching created by joining panel to curtain. Sweatband shall cover raw edges of curtain and side panels. Stitch sweatband on both sides 1/32 to 1/16 inch from edges.

301 SSat-2 10-14

c. Overlap ends of sweatband for about 1 inch. Ends shall not overlap at the back seam of the cap. One of the following operations shall be used:

TABLE IIV. Table of operations. - Continued

No Operation Stitch Type

Seam Type

Stitch inch

10 (1) Turn top end under 1/4 to 1/2 inch and stitch.

OR

301 SSat-2 10-14

(2) Overedge the edge of top end.

OR

503 or 504 or

EFd-1 8-10

(3) Stitch ends 1/4 inch beyond edge and back tack. 301 SSat-2 10-14

11. Cleaning.

a. Trim all thread ends

b. Remove all loose threads, spots, stains, and markings for shade, color, and size.

12. Pressing.

a. On the inside of cap, press smooth and flat with a heated pressing machine or a heated steam iron, forming a crease on the bottom edge.

b. The entire cap may be touched up as necessary, using steam, to remove all wrinkles and unwanted creases.

c. Remove all gloss and pressing impressions by using live steam.

3.13 Finished measurements. The finished measurements of the cap shall conform to the measurements in Table III. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches and shall be measured as specified in 3.13.1 (see Figure 1).

TABLE III. Finished measurements, all sizes (inches).

Code 1/ Description Measurement

A Side panel height at center front 3-1/2 (±1/8)

B Side Panel height at center back 2-1/4 (±1/8) C Overall cap height at side 4 (±1/8) D Curtain height at center front 2-7/8 (±1/8) E Curtain height at side 3-1/8 (±1/8) F Curtain height at center back 1-7/8 (±1/8) G Top crown 3 (±1/8) H Circumference Equal to cap size (±1/8)

1/ See Figure 1 for location

3.13.1 Measurement method:

A. Side panel height at center front-Measurement taken from the bottom folded edge of the curtain to the crown joining seam at center front.

B. Side Panel height at center back- Measurement taken from the bottom folded edge of the curtain to the crown joining seam at center back.

C. Overall cap height at side - Measurement taken from the bottom folded edge of the curtain to the crown joining seam at side where the front lap-over terminates.

D. Curtain height at center front - Measurement taken from the bottom folded edge of the curtain to the top edge of the curtain at center front where the front lap-over terminates.

Height measurement of the curtain shall not include the braid

E. Curtain height at side - Measurement taken from the bottom folded edge of the curtain to the top edge of the curtain at side of cap where the front lap-over terminates. Height measurement of the curtain shall not include the braid

F. Curtain height at center back- Measurement taken from the bottom folded edge of the curtain to the top edge of the curtain at back of cap. Height measurement of the curtain shall not include the braid

G. Top crown- Measurement taken from seam to seam across top crown at the widest part of the cap’s crown.

H. Circumference- The finished measurement for the circumference of the cap shall be taken with a gage

3.14 Toxicity. The finished Garrison Cap for Women shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.5. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.15 Workmanship. The finished cap shall be uniform in quality and shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects, as specified in 4.5.1, shall not exceed the criteria specified in the contract or purchase order.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.3).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4).

4.2 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents.

4.3 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, workmanship and finished measurements dimensional requirements (see 3.13). The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract (see 6.2) or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample unit shall be one (1) cap and the lot size shall be expressed in units of caps.

4.4 In-process inspection. Inspection will be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether operations or assemblies are performed as specified.

The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material or services for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.4.1.1 Class 1 and Class 2 caps. Additional inspection of subassemblies for the Class 1 and Class 2 caps shall be made to ascertain that stitching does not go through the cord edge of the braid.

After the completion of operation 8.a., 15 percent of each hour of production of the curtain from each stitching machine shall be randomly selected and inspected. The finding of any stitching in the cord edge shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

4.5 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4.1 (MIL-STD-902) and the tests of 4.5.2 through 4.5.4 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated.(see 6.2).

4.5.1 Visual examination. Caps shall be examined for the defects listed in MIL-STD-902.

4.5.2 End item testing. The material shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IV.

The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed.

All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished material for all physical and chemical tests. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units or the lot average fail to meet any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

TABLE VV. End item material tests.

Characteristic Requirement

Reference Test method Visual shade matching 3.5.1 4.5.3 Interlining:

Weight Thickness

3.5.2 3.5.2

ASTM D3776/D3776M

ASTM D1777

Basic material laminate:

Bond strength 3.5.2.1 ASTM D2724

Sweatband bunting:

Drycleaning Perspiration (acid & alkaline) Crocking (wet & dry)

3.5.3 3.5.3 3.5.3

AATCC 132 1/

AATCC 15 1/

AATCC 8 2/

Label:

Drycleaning 3.6.1 AATCC 132 3/

1/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2,Gray Scale for Staining.

2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale 3/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

4.5.3 Visual shade matching (all Types). The color and appearance of the cap shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500K (± 200) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent A illuminant with a color temperature of 2856K (± 200).

4.5.4 Interlining preproduction dry clean test. Prior to production of any caps, a 12 inch by 12 inch swatch of foam interlining material, as described in 3.3.2, shall be randomly cut from a lot of material representative of 1,000 caps in the end item lot. The swatch shall be commercially dry cleaned three times using perchlorethylene solvent 4 to 6 pound load with ballast at 6 to 9 minutes and bottom steam pressed in the non-locked position for 20 seconds and vacuum for 10 seconds after each of the three dry cleanings. As an alternate, AATCC-158 may be utilized, with bottom steam pressing in a non-locked position for 20 seconds and vacuum for ten seconds. One (1) specimen shall represent the preproduction lot of 1,000 caps, and the shrinkage need not be calculated. In addition, perchlorethylene shall be used in lieu of Stoddard solvent as a dry cleaning agent. The specimen shall be placed in the tumble jar with 25 mL of soap solution, and 250 mL of perchlorethylene added. The tumble jar shall be operated on the soap cycle for 5 minutes, on a single 3-minute rinse cycle, and then the specimen shall be air dried.

4.5.5 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the cap is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.14) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5 PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

Crivello, Maria F CIV USARMY RDECOM NSRDEC (US) We don’t have any requirements for dimensional stability after dry cleaning. Double checking stay tune.

6 NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The Garrison women’s caps are intended for wear by female personnel of the Department of the Army and Air Force.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents will specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Types, Classes, and Sizes required (see 1.2)

c. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

d. When first article is required (see 3.1, 4.3).

e. Conformance inspection acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 4.5)

f. Inspection conditions (see 4.2)

g. When toxicity testing is required (see 4.5.5)

h. Packaging (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required (see 3.1), it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.209-4. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Clothing Hat Headgear Uniform

6.6 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extensiveness of the changes.

FIGURE 1. Cap, Garrison, Women's.

NOTE: Letters refer to measurement locations (see 3.13)

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Army – GL DLA-CT Air Force – 11

Review activities: (Project 8410-2019-006) Army – MD

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document.

Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/